Tag Archives: Oxidation

This one really caught my eye – a Special Collection Ben Wade with great grain


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the work table was purchased on 12/08/2021 from a seller on a Facebook auction from Durham, North Carolina, USA. The grain on this lovely Bent Billiard is what caught Jeff’s eye. It is a beautifully grained Bent Billiard with a vulcanite taper stem. The pipe is stamped on the left side and reads Ben Wade in script [over] Special Collection [over] London, England [over] the number 1. There was no other stamping on the shank. The finish had a lot of grime ground into the smooth finish on the bowl and some hand oils around the sides of the bowl. The bowl was thickly caked with an overflowing thick lava coat on the rim top and edges of the rim – heavier on the back top and edge. The stem was oxidized, dirty and had light tooth chatter and marks on the top and underside near the button. The top of the stem was stamped BEN [over] WADE in white. It had promise but it was very dirty. Jeff took some photos of the pipe before he started his cleanup work. He took photos of the rim top and bowl to give a clear picture of the thickness of the cake and the overflow of lava on the rim top. He also took photos of the top and underside of the stem to show the light chatter and tooth marks. You can also see the light oxidation and calcification on the surface. Jeff took photos of the sides and heel of the bowl to give a picture of what the briar around the pipe looked like. There is some stunning grain under the build up of grime. He took photos of the stamping on the sides of the shank and the stem. It reads as noted above and is clear and readable. I turned to Pipedia (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Ben_Wade) and found a pipe that was stamped like the one that I am working on. The cursive font used on the Special Collection on both pipes is identical.The difference is that on this one it is stamped Made By Hand on the right side of the shank which is not seen on the one I have in hand.  Mine is also stamped Ben Wade above the Special Collection stamp that was not seen on the pipe below. The pipes were made by Charatan. I am pretty certain it is one of the Ben Wade’s made by Charatan. The Special Collection stamp on the side and the London England stamp both make me also think of Charatan as the maker. Now it was time to work on the pipe.

Jeff had cleaned up the pipe with his habitual process that delivers a very clean pipe to me for work. He reamed the pipe with a PipNet Pipe Reamer and cleaned up the remnants with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife.  He scrubbed the bowl with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap with a tooth brush. He rinsed it under running warm water to remove the soap and grime. He cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and pipe cleaners. He soaked the stem in Briarville’s Pipe Stem Deoxidizer and rinsed it off with warm water. I took photos of the pipe once I received it.  The rim top cleaned up well with the lava coat removed. The inner edge of the rim had a spot of burn on the back edge and a small sandpit on the rim top at the back left side. The stem surface looked very good with a few small tooth marks and chatter on both sides near the button. The Ben Wade mark on the top of the stem is faint and the white has washed out.I took a photo of the stamping on the shank. It reads as noted above and is clear and readable. I also took a photo of the pipe with the stem removed to give a sense of the shape and size.Now it was time to do my work on the pipe. I took the pipe to the desk top and started my work. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to clean it up and remove the damage. It looked significantly better.Once I had cleaned up the rim top and edges I polished the bowl and the rim top, sides and shank with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads and wiping it down after each pad with a damp cloth. I think the flaw/sandpit in the rim top is the probable cause of it being a Ben Wade and not a Charatan, but it is beautiful. I rubbed the bowl and shank down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the surface of the bowl sides and shank with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for about ten minutes and then buffed it off with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. I turned the bowl over in my hand at this point examining it carefully and enjoying shape and the flow of the grain around the bowl and shank. It is really quite beautiful. The sandpit on the back of the rim top bugged me. It just stood out and it was a spot that I could feel with my fingers and it extended a little bit into the bowl itself. It just was a blemish on an otherwise beautiful birdseye grain rim top. I just had to address it! I used a tooth pick to put a small drop of clear CA glue in the pit. It was not a huge drop but just enough to fill in the pit and the small part that extended about a 16th of an inch into the bowl. Once it dried I sanded it smooth with a 1500 grit micromesh sanding pad. I think it ended up looking better. I would buff it at the end of the clean up but I like it! I set the bowl aside and turned to work on the stem. I rubbed the stem down with Soft Scrub and cotton pads to remove the remaining oxidation in the surface. It looked much better than when I started.I painted the stem with the flame of a Bic lighter to lift the tooth marks. I was able to lift them significantly. I filled in what remained with black rubberized superglue. I set it aside to let the repairs cure. I used a file to flatten the repairs and start blending them into the surface. I sanded them with 220 grit sandpaper. (I tried to touch up the Ben Wade stamp with white acrylic nail polish but it did not work well.) I started polishing the stem with 600 grit wet dry sandpaper. I polished the tooth marks and chatter out of the vulcanite stem surface with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with a damp cloth after each sanding pad. I finished my polishing with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra-Fine polishes. I wiped it down with a final coat of Obsidian Oil and set aside.This Ben Wade Special Collection London England Bent Billiard made by Charatan with a vulcanite taper stem is a great looking pipe now that it has been restored. I put the stem back on the bowl and buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the buffing wheel and followed that by buffing the entire pipe with a clean buffing pad. I hand buffed the pipe with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished Ben Wade Special Collection Bent Billiard fits nicely in the hand and feels great. Give the finished pipe a look in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 2 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 3/8 inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe 1.98 ounces/56 grams. I will be putting it on the rebornpipes store in the British Pipe Makers Section soon. If you are interested in adding this pipe to your collection send me a message or an email. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I worked on it. There are many more to come!

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

Sometimes I wish I had been alive in the time of the classic shops in North America – Breathing Life into an Ansell’s Wash.D.C. Saddle Stem Billiard


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the work table was purchased on 05/21/22 from and Antique Store in Longview, Washington, USA. Both Jeff and I love hunting for pipes and we pick up quite a few pipes for restoration from shops on our travels. We work them into the restoration queue so that we can keep them moving. This is a beautifully grained Billiard with a vulcanite saddle stem. The pipe is stamped on the left side and reads 76 next to the shank bowl junction followed by the stamp IMPORTED BRIAR. On the right side of the shank it reads Ansell’s [over] Wash.D.C. The finish had a lot of grime ground into the smooth finish on the bowl and some darkening around the sides of the bowl. The bowl was thickly caked with an overflowing thick lava coat on the bevelled rim top and edges of the rim. The stem was lightly oxidized, dirty and had light tooth chatter and marks on the top and underside near the button. There were not markings or a logo on the saddle stem. It had promise but it was very dirty. Jeff took some photos of the pipe before he started his cleanup work.    He took photos of the rim top and bowl to give a clear picture of the thickness of the cake and the overflow of lava on the rim top. He also took photos of the top and underside of the stem to show the light chatter and tooth marks. You can also see the light oxidation and calcification on the surface. Jeff took photos of the sides and heel of the bowl to give a picture of what the briar around the pipe looked like. There is some stunning grain under the build up of grime. He took photos of the stamping on the sides of the shank. It reads as noted above and is clear and readable. I turned to Pipedia to see if there was any information on the brand that gives me the background info that I enjoy as I work on a pipe (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Ansell%27s). I found a brief article and I quote it below in full.

Ansell’s Pipe and Tobacco store was at 820 14th St. NW in Washington D.C. It was one of three pipe brands I know of which are marked with Wash. D.C. The others are Bertram pipes and A. Garfinkel.

There was also a photo of a label and matchbook. Thanks to Doug Valitchka for his photo.From this information I learned that Ansell’s was a Pipe and Tobacco Shop in Washington DC and along with Bertrams and Garfinkel made and sold their own pipes. Previously, Jeff and I picked it up a group of pipes from a seller who had bought them at the closing auction of the Bertram’s Pipe Shop in 1970. Though this one came from a separate sale, I think that it is safe to assume that the pipe was made prior to that.

Jeff had cleaned up the pipe with his habitual process that delivers a very clean pipe to me for work. He reamed the pipe with a PipNet Pipe Reamer and cleaned up the remnants with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife.  He scrubbed the bowl with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap with a tooth brush. He rinsed it under running warm water to remove the soap and grime. He cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and pipe cleaners. He soaked the stem in Briarville’s Pipe Stem Deoxidizer and rinsed it off with warm water. I took photos of the pipe once I received it.     The rim top cleaned up well with the lava coat removed. The inner edge of the rim had some burn damage on the left and back of the bowl with some darkening and burning on the rim top in the same places. The stem surface looked very good with a few small tooth marks and chatter on both sides near the button. I took photos of the stamping on the shank. There is a 76 stamped next to the shank/bowl junction followed by Imported Briar on the left side and Ansell’s in script [over] WASH.D.C. I left on trip around Alberta for work before working on the pipe. I decided to bring it along to work on in the evenings once work was finished. At the first hotel I started my work on the pipe. I removed the stem and took a photo of the pipe to give a sense of the whole. The saddle stem billiard is a nice looking pipe. The stem also has an aluminum stinger in the tenon.I brought along a bag with some 220 and 600 grit sandpaper and a set of micromesh sanding pads. Now it was time to do my work on the pipe. I took the pipe to the desk top in the hotel room and started my work. The bevelled rim top and the inner edge of the rim was damaged with burn marks and darkening. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to clean it up and remove the damage. It looked significantly better.   Once I had cleaned up the bevelled rim top and edges I polished the bowl and the rim top, sides and shank with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads and wiping it down after each pad with a damp cloth. At that point my trip was over and I returned to Vancouver. After a good night sleep I got up in the morning and returned working on the pipe. I used a Walnut stain pen to touch up the stain on the bevelled rim top and rim edges. I stained it and set it aside to cure.I rubbed the bowl and shank down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the surface of the bowl sides and shank with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for about ten minutes and then buffed it off with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. I set the bowl aside and turned to work on the stem. I heated the stinger and twisted it free of the shank. It was pressure fit in the tenon and the tars and oils held it tight in place. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to carefully twist it free. I cleaned the tenon area after it was removed but it was not too dirty.I polished the tooth marks and chatter out of the vulcanite stem surface with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with a damp cloth after each sanding pad. I finished my polishing with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra-Fine polishes. I wiped it down with a final coat of Obsidian Oil and set it aside.I pressed the stinger back in the tenon. It is simple to remove so if the new owner does not want it in place he/she can remove it.This Ansell’s Wash.D.C. Imported Briar Billiard with a vulcanite saddle stem is a great looking pipe now that it has been restored. I put the stem back on the bowl and buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the buffing wheel and followed that by buffing the entire pipe with a clean buffing pad. I hand buffed the pipe with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished Ansell’s Saddle Stem Billiard fits nicely in the hand and feels great. Give the finished pipe a look in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 ¼ inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe 1.20 ounces/34 grams. I will be putting it on the rebornpipes store in the American Pipe Makers Section soon. If you are interested in adding this pipe to your collection send me a message or an email. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I worked on it. There are many more to come!

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

New Life for a Bastia Billiard 408 made by Lillehammer Pipes Norway


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe I have chosen is an elegant Danish Straight Billiard with a mix of grain around the bowl and shank. This particular pipe came to us from a fellow in Copenhagen, Denmark on 11/14/2022. This Billiard was stamped on the left side of the shank and read Bastia [over] GL. It was stamped on the underside with the shape number 408. The pipe was in filthy condition when Jeff brought it to the table. The finish was dirty with oils and grime ground into the briar sides and rim. The bowl had a thick cake and some darkening on the inner edge of the rim. There was a lava coat flowing on to the rim top from the bowl – heavier on the back side than the front but very present. The stem was dirty – oxidized and calcified with light tooth marks and chatter on the top and underside ahead of the button. There was no stamp or identifying mark on the stem. Jeff took photos of the pipe before his cleanup work. They tell the story and give a glimpse of the promise that we see in this pipe. Jeff took photos of the rim top and stem to show the general condition of the pipe. The bowl showed some thick cake and some darkening on the inner edge. The rim top had a thick coat of lava on the surface, heavier on the back and right side of the top. The photos of the stem show the oxidation, calcification, tooth marks and chatter on both sides near the button. Jeff took some photos of the bowl sides and heel to show the beautiful grain that was around this bowl. It is a nice looking pipe.     He took photos of the sides of the shank to show the stamping. The stamping is readable in the photos below and is as noted above.     I am including the information from Pipephil on Lillehammmer pipes. It connects to the Bastia in sharing the GL initials under the brand stamp (http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-l4.html). I have included a scan of the section on Lillehammer. You can see that the GL stamp are the initials of Gudbrand Larsen the founder of Lillehammer.I turned to the Pipedia site for more information (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Lillehammer). There I was able to learn the backstory and history of the brand. I quote in full from that article and include pictures of the two principals.

In the 1830’s a young Norwegian wood-carver named Gudbrand Larsen saw some pipes made from meershcaum. He though they were beautiful and wanted to make pipes like that, but he could not obtain the material. So he decided to go where it was to be found.

Gudbrand Larsen 91815-1902)

Larsen went to Eskisehir, Turkey, to learn all about meerschaum. But the most beautiful pipes in those days were not made there but in France, so he continued his journey to Marseielle, where he found work in one of the most famous factories at the time. In 1844 he returned to Norway and started a small factory for meerschaum pipes in the town of Lillehammer. The pipes garnered a good reputation from the first.

Gudbrand’s son, August, followed in his father’s footsteps and joined him in the business. However, father and son did not get along very well, so Junior–as August usually was called–did like his father once had, he traveled to learn more about pipe-making.

Martin August “Junior” Larsen (1855-1915)

Junior understood that briar, not meerschaum, was the material of the future, so during his journey he studied the subject carefully, first in England and then in France.

In Paris Junior earned a position with a pipemaker of good repute and became highly respected in his work. However, Gudbrand was getting old and considering retirement, so he asked his son to come home and take over the family business, an offer Junior willingly accepted. As a businessman Junior was even more successful than his father, and during his period of leadership the business prospered.

In 1902 Gudbrand Larsen died at almost 90 years of age. Then Junior passed away a dozen years later, in 1914. His death was followed by some unstable years for the factory because it lacked competent management. And World War I had just started on the continent, which made it difficult to obtain raw material.

In 1916 the factory was bought be a company that appointed new management, and a long, stable period of successful expansion had begun. That period was to last for almost half a century. The main part of the production was briar pipes, but they also continued to make some meerschaums.

Problems at the factory began again at the end of the 1960s, when sales slowed dramatically. The main reason was the “fancy pipes” had become very popular, and Larsen’s of Lillehammer had nothing to offer there. Something had to be done and two steps were taken. In the middle of the 1970s the Danish company Kriswill was bought, and in that way they obtained access to that company’s more modern shapes. A new designer was also employed, but these efforts were not sufficient, and in the 1979 the factory closed.

I turned to the Pipe Club of Sweden site to see if there was any more information. There was a great article on the pipe maker Bård Hansen who followed the tradition of the Lillehammer Factory and was trained by a retired engineer from the Lillehammer Factory thus tying him to the brand. In that article there is confirmation for the Pipedia information above (http://www.svenskapipklubben.se/en/pipemakers/bard-hansen/). I quote in part the article there by Jan Andersson. (Once again I have highlighted the pertinent information in the text below using bold, italic and underlined text and marking the main point highlighted in red.

In a Swedish tobacco shop, even in small places in the province, there were usually a fair number of pipes in the 50s and 60s with stems from aluminum. But even for the more traditional pipesmoker, who wanted a pipe from wood and ebonite, there was a lot to choose from. Ratos was the dominant brand, but for those who were willing to spend a little extra, there were usually at least a few more exclusive pipes – pipes in green or blue-checked boxes. Those pipes came from Norway, from G.L. Larsens pipe factory in Lillehammer.

Lillehammer pipes were found in two qualities, Bastia was a little cheaper and Lillehammer GL was for the truly discerning pipesmoker. Later I have learned that there were also more expensive and finer qualities, even one called Best Make, but those luxury pipes were never found in the shops in the small town where I lived. Lillehammer pipes were easily recognizable, they usually were rather slim and with a long stem, which was the fashion at the time. So while a true English gentleman smoked a Dunhill with the white dot on the stem, Norwegian or Swedish pipesmokers preferred an elegant Lillehammer.

We will not go into detail about the interesting story of Lillehammer, but unfortunately we can see that from the beginning of the 70s, it rapidly went downhill for the factory. They bought the Danish company Kriswill but that was not a success, nor was the new series of shapes created by the pipemaker Thorbjørn Rygh. So G.L. Larsen’s pipe factory in Lillehammer had to close, deeply missed by many of us. This feeling persists to this day, which is particularly evident in the great interest in the Lillehammer pipes at auctions and collector’s markets.

Gathering the data together from my research I have learned that the pipe I have on my worktable is made by Lillehammer prior to the buy out by the Kriswill Company with the hope that it would offer new markets for the Lillehammer brand. The Bastia was the cheaper of the lines and interestingly it also bears GL stamping tying it to the higher end pipes from the factory.

Armed with that information I turned to address the pipe itself. Jeff had cleaned up the pipe for me. He reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer and cleaned it up with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the exterior with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush to clean off the grime off the finish and the heavy overflow of lava on the rim top. He cleaned up the internals of the shank, mortise and stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol to remove all of the oils and tars in the pipe. The rim top still had some darkening that would need to be dealt with but it looked good. He soaked the stem in Briarville’s Pipe Stem Deoxidizer and was able to remove the remnants of the oxidation. When it arrived here in Vancouver it was a clean pipe and I knew what I had to work with. I took photos of it before I started my part of the restoration. The rim top had cleaned up pretty well but you can see the darkening on the inner edge. The burn damage on the rim top and edge at the back right of the bowl. The stem cleaned up very well. You can see the tooth marks on the surface just ahead of the button. I took photos of the stamping on the sides of the shank. You can see that it is stamped as noted above. It is clear and readable. I removed the stem and took a photo of the pipe to have a look at the parts and overall look.I decided to address the damage to the rim top and inner edge of the bowl first. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to give the inner edge of the bowl a slight bevel on the inner edge to remove burned areas and blend them into the surrounding briar. I polished the bowl and shank with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped down the bowl after each pad with a damp cloth to remove the sanding debris.   I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the bowl and shank with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for 15 minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The photos show the bowl at this point in the restoration process. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I filled in the deep marks black CA glue. Once it cured I used a file to flatten them and start blending them into the surface of the surrounding vulcanite. I sanded the repaired areas with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper. I started polishing it with 600 wet dry sandpaper.   I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I finished polishing the stem with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I wiped the stem down with a final coat of Obsidian Oil and let it sit and absorb into the vulcanite. I am excited to finish this Bastia GL 408 Billiard made by Lillehammer. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I hand buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with beautiful cross and birds eye grain all around it. Added to that the polished black vulcanite stem combined with the bowl made a stunning pipe. This smooth Norwegian Bastia GL 408 Billiard is great looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 6 ¼ inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 34 grams/1.20 ounces. It is a beautiful pipe that I will soon be putting on the rebornpipes store in the Danish Pipe Makers Section. If you are interested in adding it to your collection send me an email or a message. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked over this pipe. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

Replacing a Snapped Tenon on a Neerup of Denmark Freehand Style Bulldog


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the table came to me from Curtis, a customer I have repaired pipes for in the past. He sent me two pipes that he wanted repaired by mail. I started with this one first. In looking at it I recalled that I had restemmed this pipe for him in December of last year. The original stem had been badly damaged and I had replaced it with the current stem and cap to give it a look similar to the original. It was a lot of work but I liked how it looks. Here is the link to that restoration (https://rebornpipes.com/2022/12/22/new-life-and-new-look-for-a-neerup-made-in-denmark-bulldog/). It was a nicely shaped sandblasted Bulldog with a black acrylic and a white acrylic spacer on the shank end. There was a snapped tenon in the shank and a vulcanite taper stem with a silver metal end cap/band. The tenon had snapped smoothly against the metal stem band. I would need to clean it up and replace the tenon. The bowl had a thick cake of a vanilla smelling aromatic and a thick overflow of lava on the inner edge and the rim top. The rim top was slightly worn and smooth under the lava. The stem had some calcification, tooth chatter and marks on the surface of the top and underside ahead of the button. I took some close photos of the bowl, rim top and the stem to show their condition when I started working on it. You can see the thick cake in the bowl and the thick lava coat on the rim top and inner edge. It is quite heavy and the overflow obscures the condition of the edge of the bowl and the rim top. I was able to start pulling the broken tenon and you can see it extending out of the shank. I started my work on this pipe by pulling the broken tenon from the shank. I used a drywall screw and threaded it into the airway in the tenon piece. When it took hold, I wiggled the tenon free from the shank. It took a bit of careful and slow work to loosen and remove it. I went through my box of tenons looking for one that was the proper size for the shank. Ideally it would have been a black threaded tenon but I did not have any that were the proper diameter. I did have some white Delrin tenons that were perfect and would work with the white acrylic space. The lower one in the photo would be perfect. I reduced the diameter of the threaded portion with my Dremel and a sanding drum. I used a flat file to smooth out the transition and further shape the new tenon. I used a folded piece of 180 grit sandpaper to remove the sanding marks and clean up the diameter of the tenon.When I finished the sanding, I polished it with 220 and 600 grit sandpaper to smooth out the surface. Once finished, it fit perfectly in the shank of the pipe. I left threads on the insert portion of the new tenon so that the glue would have something to grab onto when it was inserted in the stem. I removed the new tenon from the shank and turned my attentions to the stem. I drilled out the airway with a succession of larger drill bit – beginning with one slightly larger than the airway in the stem and ending with an 11/64ths drill bit.Once it had been opened up I pushed the tenon in the shank once more and slid the stem over the top to align it. The fit was very snug and nice. I took photos of it to show the fit at this point in the restoration process. I removed the stem from the pipe and the tenon from the mortise. I turned my attention to cleaning the internals and the externals of the bowl and shank. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer and the number three cutting head. I took the cake back to bare briar. I cleaned up the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall pipe knife to remove what remained. I sanded the walls of the bowl with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. Once finished the bowl walls were smooth and clean. I scraped off the lava on the rim top with the edge of a Savinelli Pipe Knife and then used a brass bristle wire brush to remove the debris. I scrubbed the exterior of the bowl with a tooth brush and undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap. I used the brass bristle brush to work over the rim top with the soap to go more deeply in the sandblast surface of the rim. I cleaned out the airway in the shank and the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and pipe cleaners. I worked on them until the mortise and airway in the shank and stem were clean.Before gluing the new tenon in place in the stem I went over the stem with a lens. I saw a crack in the stem side on the left. It must have happened when the tenon snapped in the shank. I removed the metal band/cap on the stem end and dabbed some clear CA glue in the cracked area and worked it into the crack with a tooth pick. I put some white glue in the inside of the cap and pressed it back onto the stem end. The crack was solidly repaired and the cap and band held it together.I touched up the rim top and edges with a Walnut and a Black stain pen to blend colour of the clean surface into the colour of the rest of the bowl and shank.I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the bowl and shank with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for 15 minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The photos show the bowl at this point in the restoration process.   I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I sanded the stem surface with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper. I started polishing it with 600 wet dry sandpaper. I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I finished polishing the stem with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I wiped the stem down with a final coat of Obsidian Oil and let it sit and absorb into the vulcanite. This Neerup Made in Denmark Freehand Bulldog carved by Peder Jeppesen combines a great looking piece of sandblast briar with a multi-banded shank extension and a vulcanite stem to make a beautiful pipe. The clean up work brought back the shiny coat allowing the grain to come alive with the polishing and waxing. I put the stem back on the bowl and carefully buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the buffing wheel and followed that by buffing the entire pipe with a clean buffing pad. I hand buffed the pipe with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished Neerup Made in Denmark Bulldog really is a beauty and fits nicely in the hand and looks very good. Give the finished pipe a look in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 1/2 inches, Height: 2 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¾ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.80 ounces/51 grams. Once I finish the second pipe this one will be going back to Curtis to enjoy. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I worked on it. There are many more to come!

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

New Life for a beautiful, cross grain Peterson’s Kildare 221 Bent Billiard


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe I have chosen is large, chunky, smooth finished Peterson’s “Kildare” Bent Billiard. This shape is one of my favourites – a class thick shank bent billiard that is a pleasure to hold and to smoke. This particular pipe had a very dirty/grimy finish but had some good looking grain around the bowl sides and shank. It came to us from a fellow in Copenhagen, Denmark on 04/11/2023. This Bent Billiard was stamped on the left side of the shank and read Peterson’s [over] “Kildare”. It was stamped on the right side and read Made in the Republic of Ireland (three lines). Following that near the shank/bowl junction it is stamped 221. The pipe was in filthy condition when Jeff brought it to the table. The finish was dirty with oils and grime ground into the briar sides and rim. The bowl had a thick cake and some darkening on the inner edge of the rim. There was a lava coat flowing on to the rim top from the bowl – heavier on the back side than the front but very present. The stem was dirty – oxidized and calcified with light tooth marks and chatter on the top and underside on and near the P-lip button. There was a faint “P” stamp logo on the saddle stem. Jeff took photos of the pipe before his cleanup work. They tell the story and give a glimpse of the promise that we see in this pipe. Jeff took photos of the rim top and stem to show the general condition of the pipe. The bowl showed some moderate cake and some darkening on the inner edge. The rim top had a thick coat of lava on the surface, particularly on the back and right side of the top. The photos of the stem show the oxidation, calcification, tooth marks and chatter on both sides near the button. Jeff took some photos of the bowl sides and heel to show the beautiful cross grain that was around this bowl. It is a nice looking pipe.     He took photos of the sides of the shank to show the stamping. The stamping is readable in the photos below and is as noted above.     I am including the information from Pipedia’s article on Peterson pipes. It is a great read in terms of the history of the brand (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Peterson). I have included a bit of the pertinent history here.

1950 – 1989 The Republic Era – From 1950 to the present time, the stamp for this era is “Made in the Republic of Ireland” in a block format generally in three lines but two lines have been used with or without Republic being abbreviated.

During the 1950’s and 60’s the Kapp & Peterson Company was still in the ownership of the Kapp family. However 1964 saw the retiral of the company Managing Director Frederick Henry(Harry) Kapp.

I turned to “The Peterson Pipe” by Mark Irwin and Gary Malmberg to get some background on the Peterson’s System Line. On page 314 it had the following information.

Kildare (1965-) First issue of line with matte-finish in Classic Range shapes, P-Lip and fishtail mouthpiece. Second issue C.1979 as Kildare Patch, with rusticated patches on pipe surface. Third issue 2010, matte-brown, P-Lip or fishtail mouthpiece, no band. Fourth issue 2011-, burgundy sandblast finish, nickel army mount, fishtail mouthpiece, exclusive to smokingpipes.com.

Judging from the description above I believe that I am working on a First Issue of the line in the time period of 1965-1979. It is a late Republic Era Classic Shaped pipe with a matte-finish and a P-Lip stem. Now it was time to work on the pipe.

Jeff had done a great job cleaning up the pipe as usual. He reamed the pipe with a PipNet reamer and cut back the cake back to the bare briar. He cleaned up the walls with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the interior of the bowl and shank with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol to remove the tars and oils. He scrubbed the exterior of the pipe with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush to remove the grime from the finish. He worked on the rim top lava and the darkened spots with the soap and tooth brush. He scrubbed the inside of the stem with alcohol and pipe cleaners. He scrubbed the exterior with Soft Scrub and then soaked it in Briarville Pipe Stem Deoxidizer. He washed it off with warm water to remove the Deoxidizer. The pipe looked far better when it arrived. The rim top had cleaned up pretty well but you can see the darkening on the inner edge. There scratches and nicks in the surface of the rim top. The stem cleaned up very well. You can see the deep tooth marks on the surface ahead of the button. I took photos of the stamping on the sides of the shank. You can see that it is stamped as noted above. It is clear and readable. You can also see the stamped “P” on the left side of the saddle. I removed the stem and took a photo of the pipe to have a look at the parts and overall look. I decided to address the damage to the rim top and inner edge of the bowl first. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to give the inner edge of the bowl a slight bevel on the inner edge to remove burned areas and blend them into the surrounding briar. I polished the bowl and shank with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped down the bowl after each pad with a damp cloth to remove the sanding debris.   I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the bowl and shank with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for 15 minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The photos show the bowl at this point in the restoration process. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I filled in the deep marks black CA glue. Once it cured I used a file to flatten them and start blending them into the surface of the surrounding vulcanite. I sanded the repaired areas with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper. I started polishing it with 600 wet dry sandpaper.   I touched up the “P” logo stamping on the left side of the stem with some white acrylic fingernail polish. I pushed it into the logo mark with a toothpick. Once it had dried I polished off the excess on the stem with a worn 1500 grit micromesh sanding pad. I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I finished polishing the stem with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I wiped the stem down with a final coat of Obsidian Oil and let it sit and absorb into the vulcanite. I am excited to finish this Republic Era Peterson’s “Kildare” 221 Bent Billiard. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I hand buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with beautiful cross and birds eye grain all around it. Added to that the polished black vulcanite stem combined with the bowl made a stunning pipe. This smooth Classic Peterson’s “Kildare” 221 Bent Billiard is great looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 1/8 inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 43 grams/1.52 ounces. It is a beautiful pipe that I will soon be putting on the rebornpipes store in the Irish Pipe Makers Section. If you are interested in adding it to your collection send me an email or a message. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked over this pipe. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

This Interesting Maltese Lovat has quite a history


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe I have chosen is a classic British looking Lovat shape. This particular pipe had a very dirty/grimy finish and some peeling varnish. It had some nice grain around the bowl sides and shank underneath the grime and peeling finish. It came to us from an antique store in Vancouver, Washington, USA on 10/20/2022. How it travelled from Malta, an island country in the Mediterranean, to the west coast of the US to an antique shop in Vancouver, Washington is a story I would love to learn more about. But that is a mystery that shall remain with this speechless pipe. The Lovat was stamped on the left side of the shank with a Maltese Cross. On the right side it is stamped Made in Malta. The pipe was in filthy condition when he brought it to the table. The finish was dirty with oils and grime ground into the briar sides and rim. The bowl had a thick cake and a heavy lava overflow on to the rim top. It was hard to know what the inner edge of the rim looked like under the grime. The stem was dirty with some light oxidation or calcification on it ahead of the button. There were light tooth marks and chatter on the top and underside on and near the button. There was also a bite through on the underside of the stem ahead of the button. There was not a logo stamped on the stem. Jeff took photos of the pipe before his cleanup work. They tell the story and give a glimpse of the promise that we see in this pipe. Jeff took photos of the rim top and stem to show the general condition of the pipe. The bowl had a heavy cake and a thick coat of lava on the rim top. It was hard to know what the inner edge looked like at this point but we would know after clean up. The photos of the stem show the tooth marks and chatter on both sides near the button. You can also see the small bite through on the underside of the stem near the button. Jeff took some photos of the bowl sides and heel to show the grain showing through the brown stain and the peeling varnish that was around this bowl. It is a pipe with some great potential.    He took photos of the sides of the shank to show the stamping. The stamping is readable in the photo below and is as noted above. I looked on Pipedia to see if there was any information on the brand. It was listed under the article for the Briar Pipeworks Ltd. (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Briar_Pipeworks_Ltd.). There was not a lot of information on the brand there but it was helpful. I quote it in full below. I highlighted in bold the stamp on this pipe – Maltese Cross.

The Briar Pipeworks Ltd. (or Malta Pipes as they call themselves) is situated in Marsa, Malta and produces hand finished medium priced pipes. The company was founded in 1933 and specializes in Briar and Maltese Olive wood pipes in a vast range of models. They also produce custom made engraved pipes.

The current number of employees is said to be three.

Some brands / models made by Malta Pipes are:

  • Big Bill
  • Boschetto (olive wood)
  • Calypso
  • Champion
  • Comino
  • Darville (churchwarden pipe)
  • Dr. Stewart “Safety Smoke”
  • Filfla
  • Grandmaster
  • Maltese Cross
  • Mayfair
  • Portland Pipe

Jeff had done a great job cleaning up the pipe as usual. He reamed the pipe with a PipNet reamer and cut back the cake back to the bare briar. He cleaned up the walls with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the interior of the bowl and shank with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol to remove the tars and oils. He scrubbed the exterior of the pipe with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush to remove the grime from the finish. He scrubbed the bowl with acetone to remove the peeling finish. He worked on the rim top lava and the darkened spots with the soap and tooth brush. He scrubbed the inside of the stem with alcohol and pipe cleaners. He scrubbed the exterior with Soft Scrub and then soaked it in Briarville Pipe Stem Deoxidizer. He washed it off with warm water to remove the Deoxidizer. The pipe looked far better when it arrived. The rim top had cleaned up pretty well but you can see the burn damage to the inner edge. The backside of the bowl is worse than the rest of the edge. There scratches and nicks in the surface of the rim top. The stem cleaned up very well. You can see the deep tooth marks on the surface ahead of the button and the bite through on the underside of the stem ahead of the button. It was going to take a bit of work to clean it up and repair it.I took photos of the stamping on the sides of the shank. You can see that it is stamped as noted above. It is clear and readable. I removed the stem and took a photo of the pipe to have a look at the parts and overall look. I decided to address the damage to the front rim top and inner edge of the bowl first. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to give the inner edge of the bowl a slight bevel on the inner edge to remove burned areas and blend them into the edge. I used an Oak stain pen to stain the bevel to match the surrounding briar.I polished the bowl and shank with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped down the bowl after each pad with a damp cloth to remove the sanding debris.   I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the bowl and shank with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for 15 minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The photos show the bowl at this point in the restoration process. I set the bowl aside and turned to work on the stem. I decided to deal with the bite through in the stem surface. I greased a pipe cleaner with Vaseline and inserted it in the airway in the button under the bite through. I filled in the hole with black CA glue. I set it aside to let the repair cure. Once the repair cured. I flattened it with a file to start the blending process. I continued that process with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to smooth it out. I started the polishing process with 600 grit wet dry sandpaper. It was looking much better and the bite through was gone.  I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil.I finished polishing the stem with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I wiped the stem down with a final coat of Obsidian Oil and let it sit and absorb into the vulcanite.I am excited to finish this Made in Malta Maltese Cross Lovat. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I hand buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with beautiful mixed grain all around it. Added to that the polished black vulcanite stem combined with the bowl made a stunning pipe. This smooth Classic Lovat shaped Maltese Cross is great looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 31 grams/1.09 ounces. It is a beautiful pipe that I will soon be putting on the rebornpipes store in the Pipes from Various Makers Section. If you are interested in adding it to your collection send me an email or a message. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked over this pipe. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

Restemming JSP (Joel Shapiro) Stack that came with a misfit stem


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe I have chosen is large, tall bent stack with a poorly fit long Churchwarden stem. The diameter of the shank is not even close to the stem diameter. It appears to me that someone had added the stem solely to create their own long stem smoke. The shank end was a bit damaged on the on the face of the stem. I would need to do something to deal with that when I worked on it. This particular pipe had a very dirty/grimy finish but had some nice grain around the bowl sides and shank underneath the dark reds and black stem. It came to us from a fellow in Copenhagen, Denmark on 01/26/2023. This Bent Stack was stamped on the underside of the shank and read JSP. There were no other stamps on the shank sides. The pipe was in filthy condition when he brought it to the table. The finish was dirty with oils and grime ground into the briar sides and rim. The bowl had a thick cake and some darkening on the inner edge of the rim. There was some light lava on the rim top. The misfit stem was dirty but there was no oxidation or calcification on it. There were light tooth marks and chatter on the top and underside on and near the button. There was not a logo stamped on the stem. The diameter of the shank was significantly larger than that of the stem. Jeff took photos of the pipe before his cleanup work. They tell the story and give a glimpse of the promise that we see in this pipe. Jeff took photos of the rim top and stem to show the general condition of the pipe. The bowl showed some moderate cake and some darkening on the inner edge. The rim top looked quite clean with small specks of lava on the surface. The photos of the stem show the light tooth marks and chatter on both sides near the button. Jeff took some photos of the bowl sides and heel to show the grain showing through the black and red stain that was around this bowl. It is a nice looking pipe.    He took a photo of the underside of the shank to show the stamping. The stamping is readable in the photo below and is as noted above. He took a photo of the fit of the stem against the shank end. You can see the difference in the diameter of the stem and the shank as well as some of the nicks and marks in the shank end. I turned to a blog I wrote recently about a JSP pipe. That one was a Bamboo shank poker that was quite beautiful. Here is the link to that blog (https://rebornpipes.com/2023/07/13/restoring-an-american-made-jsp-7-bamboo-shank-poker/). I quote from that blog now in the section on the background to the brand.

I turned to Pipedia to have a look at the history of the brand. I was pretty sure it was made by Joel Shapiro but needed confirmation (https://pipedia.org/wiki/JS_Pipes). Here is the information from the article.

Welcome to JS Pipes! http://www.jspipes.com

Let me introduce myself. My name is Joel Shapiro, and I live in Rancho Cordova, California. I offer a limited number of handmade briar pipes for sale.

The type of briar (Grecian, Italian, etc.) will be noted for each pipe made, along with further details concerning stem type (ebonite, lucite, cumberland, etc.) and shank extensions. A complete size description will be included with each pipe posted for sale.

I do not fill any flaws in the briar, so the buyer will see exactly what is offered with nothing to hide. All pipes are finished with a buffed in coat of carnauba wax over the stain. Stains are all alcohol based and will not seal the wood, so won’t alter the smoking experience or the breathing qualities of the briar.

In addition, I also offer a unique tamper design. My tampers are hand turned from quality hardwoods and the foot is cut at an angle to aid in mounding the tobacco and keeping the ember banked. I have found that this design results is fewer relights for a more enjoyable smoke. I can make these in any custom size and in most hardwoods, including some exotics. If you’d like a custom size (for very large pipes for example) or material, please contact me at jspipes@jspipes.com. All tampers are priced at $24.95, unless the material chosen is particularly expensive or difficult to work.

If you’d like to buy a pipe or tamper, but prefer to pay by money order or check, please e-mail (jspipes@jspipes.com) for my mailing address.

Would you like an email when new pipes are posted? Send me an e-mail and request to be on the JS Pipes mailing list! jspipes@jspipes.com

Jeff had done a great job cleaning up the pipe as usual. He reamed the pipe with a PipNet reamer and cut back the cake back to the bare briar. He cleaned up the walls with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the interior of the bowl and shank with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol to remove the tars and oils. He scrubbed the exterior of the pipe with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush to remove the grime from the finish. He worked on the rim top lava and the darkened spots with the soap and tooth brush. He scrubbed the inside of the stem with alcohol and pipe cleaners. He scrubbed the exterior with Soft Scrub and then soaked it in Briarville Pipe Stem Deoxidizer. He washed it off with warm water to remove the Deoxidizer. The pipe looked far better when it arrived.I went through my can of stems until I found the one that fit the angles and the diameter of the shank. I used a Dremel and sanding drum and a file to reduce the diameter of the tenon on the new stem to fit the shank. Now it was time to deal with the damage on the shank end. I decided to use a thin brass band to provide a smooth base for the new stem to sit against. I gave the shank end a thin coat of white all-purpose glue and spread it with a tooth pick. I pressed the band in place on the shank and wiped off the excess glue. The end was smooth and the bit of brass gave the pipe a touch of bling that was perfect. I took photos of the newly fitted band and have included them below. With the band in place on the shank I fit the stem in the shank and took photos of the new look. I still needed to polish the new stem but I wanted to give a sense of the whole with the photos. Have a look. I took a close up photo of the rim top and bowl along with the stem to show their general condition. The rim top looked good and the stem was in good condition as well without tooth marks or chatter on either side. I took a photo of the stamping on the underside of the shank. The JSP stamp is clear and readable.I set the stem aside and turned my attention to the bowl. I wiped the bowl down with isopropyl alcohol on a cotton pad to make the stain a bit more transparent so the grain showed through. I polished the bowl and shank with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped down the bowl after each pad with a damp cloth to remove the sanding debris. I used a Mahogany stain pen to touch up the rim top to match the rest of the bowl. The rim matches the colour in the rest of the bowl and shank perfectly.I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the bowl and shank with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for 15 minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The photos show the bowl at this point in the restoration process. I set the bowl aside and worked on the stem. I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I finished polishing the stem with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I wiped the stem down with a final coat of Obsidian Oil and let it sit and absorb into the vulcanite.I am excited to finish this JSP “Joel Shapiro” Briar Stack with Vulcanite taper Stem. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I hand buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with beautiful mixed grain all around it. Added to that the polished black vulcanite stem combined with the bowl made a stunning pipe. This smooth JSP Joel Shapiro Stack is great looking with its new stem and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 2 ½ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 1/8 inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 39 grams/1.38 ounces. It is a beautiful pipe that I will soon be putting on the rebornpipes store in the American (US)Pipe Makers Section. If you are interested in adding it to your collection send me an email or a message. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked over this pipe. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

Breathing New Life into a Chunky Peterson’s “Kildare” XL90 Bent Billiard Filter Pipe


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe I have chosen is large, chunky, smooth finished Peterson’s “Kildare” Bent Billiard. This shape is one of my favourites – a class thick shank bent billiard that is a pleasure to hold and to smoke. This particular pipe had a very dirty/grimy finish but had some good looking grain around the bowl sides and shank. It came to us from a fellow in Copenhagen, Denmark on 04/11/2023. This Bent Billiard was stamped on the left side of the shank and read Peterson’s [over] “Kildare”. It was stamped on the right side and read Made in the Republic of Ireland (three lines). Following that near the shank/bowl junction it is stamped XL90. The pipe was in filthy condition when he brought it to the table. The finish was dirty with oils and grime ground into the briar sides and rim. The bowl had a thick cake and some darkening on the inner edge of the rim. There was some light lava on the rim top. The stem was dirty but there was no oxidation or calcification on it. There were light tooth marks and chatter on the top and underside on and near the P-lip button. There was a faint “P” stamp logo on the taper stem. The tenon was made for a 9mm filter. Jeff took photos of the pipe before his cleanup work. They tell the story and give a glimpse of the promise that we see in this pipe. Jeff took photos of the rim top and stem to show the general condition of the pipe. The bowl showed some moderate cake and some darkening on the inner edge. The rim top looked quite clean with small specks of lava on the surface. The photos of the stem show the light tooth marks and chatter on both sides near the button. Jeff took some photos of the bowl sides and heel to show the amazing grain that was around this bowl. It is a nice looking pipe.     He took photos of the sides of the shank to show the stamping. The stamping is readable in the photos below and is as noted above.     I am including the information from Pipedia’s article on Peterson pipes. It is a great read in terms of the history of the brand (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Peterson). I have included a bit of the pertinent history here.

1950 – 1989 The Republic Era – From 1950 to the present time, the stamp for this era is “Made in the Republic of Ireland” in a block format generally in three lines but two lines have been used with or without Republic being abbreviated.

During the 1950’s and 60’s the Kapp & Peterson Company was still in the ownership of the Kapp family. However 1964 saw the retiral of the company Managing Director Frederick Henry(Harry) Kapp.

I turned to “The Peterson Pipe” by Mark Irwin and Gary Malmberg to get some background on the Peterson’s System Line. On page 314 it had the following information.

Kildare (1965-) First issue of line with matte-finish in Classic Range shapes, P-Lip and fishtail mouthpiece. Second issue C.1979 as Kildare Patch, with rusticated patches on pipe surface. Third issue 2010, matte-brown, P-Lip or fishtail mouthpiece, no band. Fourth issue 2011-, burgundy sandblast finish, nickel army mount, fishtail mouthpiece, exclusive to smokingpipes.com.

Judging from the description above I believe that I am working on a First Issue of the line in the time period of 1965-1979. It is a late Republic Era Classic Shaped pipe with a matte-finish and a P-Lip stem. Now it was time to work on the pipe.

Jeff had done a great job cleaning up the pipe as usual. He reamed the pipe with a PipNet reamer and cut back the cake back to the bare briar. He cleaned up the walls with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the interior of the bowl and shank with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol to remove the tars and oils. He scrubbed the exterior of the pipe with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush to remove the grime from the finish. He worked on the rim top lava and the darkened spots with the soap and tooth brush. He scrubbed the inside of the stem with alcohol and pipe cleaners. He scrubbed the exterior with Soft Scrub and then soaked it in Briarville Pipe Stem Deoxidizer. He washed it off with warm water to remove the Deoxidizer. The pipe looked far better when it arrived. I decided to address the damage on the rim top and the burn damage to the inner edge of the bowl first. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the damage and bring the bowl back to as close to round as possible. I used a walnut stain pen to stain the inner edge of the bowl and the rim top to match the rest of the pipe. The stem cleaned up very well. I would only need to polish it with micromesh sanding pads – the buff it. I took photos of the stamping on the sides of the shank. You can see that it is stamped as noted above. It is clear and readable. I removed the stem and took a photo of the pipe to have a look at the parts and overall look. I decided to address the damage to the front rim top and inner edge of the bowl first. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to give the inner edge of the bowl a slight bevel on the inner edge to remove burned areas and blend them into the surrounding briar.I polished the bowl and shank with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped down the bowl after each pad with a damp cloth to remove the sanding debris.   I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the bowl and shank with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for 15 minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The photos show the bowl at this point in the restoration process. I set the bowl aside and “painted” the stem surface with the flame of a “Bic” lighter to lift the tooth marks. I was able to raise them and I sanded the remaining marks to blend them into the surface of the surrounding vulcanite. I touched up the “P” logo stamping on the left side of the stem with some white acrylic fingernail polish. I pushed it into the logo mark with a toothpick. Once it had dried I polished off the excess on the stem with a worn 1500 grit micromesh sanding pad.I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I finished polishing the stem with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I wiped the stem down with a final coat of Obsidian Oil and let it sit and absorb into the vulcanite.I am excited to finish this Republic Era Peterson’s “Kildare” XL90 Filter Stem Bent Billiard. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I hand buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with beautiful mixed grain all around it. Added to that the polished black vulcanite stem combined with the bowl made a stunning pipe. This smooth Classic Peterson’s “Kildare” XL90 Bent Billiard with a filter stem is great looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 2 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 66 grams/2.33 ounces. It is a beautiful pipe that I will soon be putting on the rebornpipes store in the Irish Pipe Makers Section. If you are interested in adding it to your collection send me an email or a message. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked over this pipe. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

Restoring a Peterson’s London and Dublin 35P London Made Canadian


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe I have chosen is smooth finished Peterson’s London& Dublin Canadian pipe that had a very dirty/grimy finish but had some good looking grain around the bowl sides and shank. It came to us from a fellow in Copenhagen, Denmark on 10/03/2022. This Lightweight Canadian was stamped on the left side of the shank and read Peterson’s [over] London & Dublin. It was stamped on the right side and read London Made [over] England. On the underside near the shank/stem junction it is stamped 35P. The pipe was in filthy condition when he brought it to the table. The finish was dirty with grime ground into the briar sides and rim. There was a thick cake in the bowl and a coat of lava on the rim top but the edges of the bowl. The inner edge of the bowl was rough and looked like it had been reamed with a knife and had a lot of rough edges. The stem was dirty but there was no oxidation or calcification on it. There were tooth marks and chatter on the top and underside on and near the button. There was no “P” stamp logo on the taper stem. Jeff took photos of the pipe before his cleanup work. They tell the story and give a glimpse of the promise that we see in this pipe. Jeff took photos of the rim top and stem to show the general condition of the pipe. The bowl is caked and the rim top has a lava coat and the inner edge of the bowl is rough and shows knife damage. The photos of the stem show tooth marks and chatter on both sides near the button. Jeff took some photos of the bowl sides and heel to show the amazing grain that was around this bowl. It is a nice looking pipe.    He took photos of the sides of the shank to show the stamping. The stamping is readable in the photos below and is as noted above.  I am including the link to the Pipedia’s article on Peterson pipes. It is a great read in terms of the history of the brand (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Peterson).

I turned to “The Peterson Pipe” by Mark Irwin and Gary Malmberg to get some background on the Peterson’s London Made England line. On page 296-297 it had the following information.

MADE IN over ENGLAND and variations shown below (1936-62) Peterson maintained a factory in England for about a quarter of a century, from the late 1930s to ’62. Corporate transcripts and London business periodicals suggest the London operation on White Lion Street was about to get underway in ’37. Only a handful of London hallmarked Petersons are documented, stamped with date marks of 1936 and 1939, and these have no COM stamp. Their output would be limited by the onset of the Battle of Britain in July 1940, but it seems reasonable to suppose pipes were made in the London factory during WWII, inasmuch as the K&P Staff Register lists twelve employees earning wages there in January ’44. London hallmarked Petersons have been identified with dates of 1949-54. Most London made Petersons in a collector’s inventory were made in these postwar years, from 1949 until the closing of the factory in ’62. This narrow range of dates is probably the most reliable indicator of years when the stamp and the variations listed below were employed. The presence of one variation or another on a pipe is not by itself a reliable indicator of age.

Made In over England

Made In England forming a circle

Made In England forming an ellipse

Made in England in a line

A “Peterson’s Product” over Made In England

A Peterson’s Product over Made In England

A Peterson Product over Made in England

Made In over Great Britain

Great Britain

London Made over England

London Made

Now I knew a date range for the pipe I was working on – 1949-1962. I have underlined and made the text bold in the above list to show the stamping on the pipe I am working on. Now it was time to work on the pipe.

Jeff had done a great job cleaning up the pipe as usual. He reamed the pipe with a PipNet reamer and cut back the cake back to the bare briar. He cleaned up the walls with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the interior of the bowl and shank with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol to remove the tars and oils. He scrubbed the exterior of the pipe with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush to remove the grime from the finish. He worked on the rim top lava and the darkened spots with the soap and tooth brush. He scrubbed the inside of the stem with alcohol and pipe cleaners. He scrubbed the exterior with Soft Scrub and then soaked it in Briarville Pipe Stem Deoxidizer. He washed it off with warm water to remove the Deoxidizer. The pipe looked far better when it arrived. I took some close up photos of the rim top and also of the stem surface. I wanted to show how well it had cleaned up. The rim top had some looked quite good and the inner edge had some darkening and damage. It should clean up really well. I also took close up photos of the stem to show the tooth marks on the surface near the button. I took photos of the stamping on the sides of the shank. You can see that it is stamped as noted above. It is clear and readable. I removed the stem and took a photo of the pipe to have a look at the parts and overall look. I decided to address the damage on the rim top and the hacked inner edge of the bowl first. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the damage and bring the bowl back to as close to round as possible. The thinness of the walls did not leave a lot of room to work with so it is better but not perfect. I used a walnut stain pen to stain the inner edge of the bowl and the rim top to match the rest of the pipe. I polished the bowl and shank with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped down the bowl after each pad with a damp cloth to remove the sanding debris.   I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the bowl and shank with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for 15 minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The photos show the bowl at this point in the restoration process. I set the bowl aside and “painted” the stem surface with the flame of a “Bic” lighter to lift the tooth marks. I was able to raise them and I sanded the remaining marks to blend them into the surface of the surrounding vulcanite. I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil.I finished polishing it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine and buffed it off with a cotton cloth. I gave it a coat of Obsidian Oil to preserve and protect the stem. I am excited to finish this London Made English Peterson’s London & Dublin, Canadian 35P. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I hand buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with beautiful mixed grain all around it. Added to that the polished black vulcanite stem combined with the bowl and brass band on the shank and made a stunning pipe. This smooth Classic Older Peterson’s London & Dublin English Made Canadian 35P is great looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 2 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 34grams/1.20oz. It is a beautiful pipe that I will soon be putting on the rebornpipes store in the Irish Pipe Makers Section. If you are interested in adding it to your collection send me an email or a message. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked over this pipe. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

Breathing New Life into a Karl Erik Handmade in Denmark 11 Dublin/Freehand


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the work table is an elegantly shaped Dublin/Freehand. It came to us from an auction out of Glendale, Arizona, USA on 06/13/2020. The finish had a combination of smooth and two rusticated patches – one on the right side mid bowl and other on the back mid bowl. The top of the bowl is smooth and round. The shank underside is stamped Karl Erik over Hand Made in Denmark over 11. The bowl had grime and oils ground into the sides. There was a thick cake in the bowl and a light lava overflow and grime on the inner edge and rim top. There was a small mark on the inner edge on the left side toward the back of the bowl. The fancy, turned saddle stem was oxidized and there was tooth chatter on both sides near the button. Jeff took photos of the pipe before he started his clean up. The next photo shows the rim top and the bowl. You can see the cake in the bowl and the light overflow of lava on the flat rim top. The inner edge of the bowl looks smooth and shows some darkening and nicks. The photos of the stem show the oxidation and calcification on the stem. There are also light tooth marks and chatter on both sides near the button. Jeff took pictures of the bowl from various angles to show the condition and the overall look of the pipe. It was a beauty and elegant underneath the grime. The underside of the shank is stamped Karl Erik over Hand Made in Denmark. Underneath that is the number 11. It is clear and readable.Jeff had thoroughly cleaned up the pipe. He reamed the pipe with a PipNet Pipe Reamer and cleaned up the remnants with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the bowl with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap with a tooth brush. He rinsed it under running warm water to remove the soap and grime. He cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and pipe cleaners. He scrubbed the exterior of the stem with Soft Scrub to remove as much of the oxidation and calcification as possible. He soaked the stem in Briarville’s Pipe Stem Deoxidizer and rinsed it off with warm water. I took photos of the pipe once I started to work on it.  I took some photos of the rim top and stem. The rim top and bowl looked good. The cake and lava overflow were gone but the rim top and the inner edge showed some nicks and darkening. The closeup photos of the stem shows that it is a much cleaner and looks good. The light tooth marks and chatter were still present on both sides.I took a photo of the stamping on the left side of the shank to show the condition after the cleanup. It was very readable and undamaged. I took the stem off the shank and took a photo of the pipe to give a sense of the proportions of the pipe.  I started my restoration work on this pipe by addressing the darkening around the inner edge of the bowl and rim top. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to clean up the inner edge and the rim top. The finished rim top looked very good.I started my polishing regimen on the bowl. I used nine micromesh sanding pads and dry sanded the bowl with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the bowl down with a damp cloth after each pad. The bowl really shines by the final three pads. I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the briar with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect it. I let the balm sit for a little while and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The photos show the bowl at this point in the restoration process.     I set the bowl aside and turned to the stem. I polished out the tooth chatter and marks on the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped them down after each sanding pad with a cloth containing some Obsidian Oil. I finished polishing it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine and buffed it off with a cotton cloth. I gave it a coat of Obsidian Oil to preserve and protect the stem. I don’t know how many times I have said this but I love it when I come to the end of a restoration and all of the parts come together and the pipe looks better than when we started the cleanup process. I put the stem back on the Karl Erik Handmade in Denmark 11 Freehand Dublin and buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I carefully avoided the stamping on the shank sides during the process. I gave the bowl and stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the buffing wheel and followed that by buffing it with a clean buffing pad on the buffer. I hand buffed the pipe with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished pipe is a real stunning example of a Danish Karl Erik Handmade 11 Freehand. Once again, the grain and the way the shape follows the grain is amazing. Give the finish pipe a look in the photos below. I can only tell you that it is much prettier in person than the photos capture. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 ¾ inches, Height: 2 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ½ inches, Chamber diameter: 1 inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.38 ounces/40grams. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked over another beautiful pipe. I will be putting this one on the rebornpipes store in the Danish Pipemakers Section. Let me know if you are interested in adding it to your collection. Thanks for your time.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.