Q & A Forum

Post your questions and read the answers and respond with your own. Questions and answers can be posted in the Comments section below. This section of rebornpipes is a forum to provide discussion on the work of pipe restoration and refurbishing. Post your questions here and check in regularly to see what answers may be given.

42 thoughts on “Q & A Forum

  1. David Gabert

    This weekend I received a lot of pipes. One is a Frankau’s Snapfit. The problem is that the stem just turns and is a bit sloppy. I will try putting it the freezer for a bit, but is there a particular trick to these pipes?

  2. Jonathan Morlock

    Hi I recently bought a lot of 18 estate pipes and have been restoring them. From filling chips and repairing cracks to simple cleaning and polishing. One of the pipes is a smooth medium shaped Dublin. After removing layers of grime I was able to read the nomenclature which reads Middleton Silvay. From what I am able to find it could be made by comoys or royal ascot. My question is are you familiar with this brand as to when production ended? As it looks like they started being produced in the 1930s. Thanks for any help you might give.

  3. Danny Browne

    Is it expensive to have a pipe restored? I have a couple of pipes that I would love cleans up. They aren’t fancy pipes but I really like them? Thank you.

      1. Josh

        I have some pipes that were recently recovered from a humid storage unit and are covered in mildew inside and out. Is there a reliable pipe repair place that could restore them? I’ve looked for someone I could send them out to, but can’t find anyone.

  4. Tyler McMichael


    Excellent site! Really enjoy the history and craftsmanship for tobacco pipes. Just started my first restoration of an older Butz Chaquin “Virginia”, made in Claude France with the numbers 2403 stamped on it. It also has a screw on horn stem. I am taking it down to raw briar and then waxing it for a natural finish and aging. I really love the pipe, and wanted to make it my virginia smoking pipe. The only problem is that before my salt bath I wanted to run a pipe cleaner through with some alcohol and found that I could not get it down the shank. I looked in and saw a smaller hole inside and down from the screw hole, and it seemed to run to a smaller hole after that. I believe its a stinger of some sort, but I don’t know how to remove it. The threads for the stem are attached to metal band that clamps down to the shank and does not appear to be removable. I don’t know much about stingers that sit inside the shank, but would really like to get it out.

    I love this pipe and really want to restore it and not have the stinger. Any advice?

    I can send pics if needed.


  5. Jonathan Morlock

    Hello from Montana
    I have cleaned up a few Linkman pipes and I have a question about one of the bowl shapes and how common they were. The bowl is shaped like a four sided bolt. It is a linkman dr grabow deluxe bruyere pat no. 1896600 shape no. 9707 so if you are familiar with this one I am curious as I haven’t seen another one on the web

    1. rebornpipes Post author

      Hi Jonathan, there may well be some information on the The Dr. Grabow Collectors Forum on Facebook. There used to be forum independent of the Facebook group that had a lot of helpful information

  6. jorre9


    I am starting the pipe restoration hobby.
    This site is really my guide, so first i would like to say thank you for that!
    I am currently trying to understand the different products and their uses.
    I am not completely clear about the differeces between the following products:
    – before & after balm
    – paragon/halcyon II wax
    – Tripoli (buffing wheel)
    – white Diamond (buffing wheel)
    – carnauba wax (buffing wheel)
    I mostly understand what these products do individually but when I read about them they have simmilar purposes. When do you use which one?

    Thanks in advance!

    Greetings from Belgium


    1. rebornpipes Post author

      Hello Jorne. I will try prioritize these items according to when I use them.
      1.Before Buffing – Before & After Balm is used to rejuvenate and protect the briar. I use it once I have polished the bowl with micromesh.
      2.Order of Buffing – Tripoli is the coarsest of the list you give. I don’t always use it. Typical on really rough stems and briar. White Diamond is the next one up and is a polishing compound. I use this most of the time before giving the bowl and stem wax.
      3. Waxing – Carnauba is the wax I use on the wheel on virtually every smooth pipe and every stem. It can only be applied with the wheel or a Dremel and miniwheel. Paragon and Halcyon were created for those without wheels. I use Halcyon or Conservators Wax on rusticated or sandblast finishes so that i do not get the build up in the grooves that come with buffing in carnauba.

      Hope that helps.

  7. Jonathan Morlock

    Hi I have a question about a KBB Yello Bole century model. It is a Canadian oval shank. Just wondering what year it might have been made. I know certain dating items i.e the kbb clover being before 55 when they were bought out by s m Frank. But besides this I am not sure as it has no date code or one of the slogans marked on the pipe. So my guess is between 47 to 55. Just curious in Montana. Thanks.

  8. Beefy

    Hi All,
    greetings from the U.K !
    I am looking for information regarding the restoration of a Redmanol pipe stem from an old CPF( I think) meerschaum. It has a portion of the tenon stem missing (about 1 half of the tenon thread in the stem)
    My question is, Can this be fixed without re stemming the pipe or other invasive procedures, also will redmanol bond with other materials/glues

    1. rebornpipes Post author

      Greetings! I have worked on a lot of old CPF pipes with Redmanol stems. If the tenon is broken I have used a small drill bit and screwed it into the tenon and turned it out. If that does not work you can drill out the old bit. There are replacement tenons online through JH Lowe and Vermont Freehand…

      1. ben

        Thanks, your help is appreciated, the old tennon is stuck fast in the shank, its where it screws into the tennon end of the bit where the problem is ,as approx. a third to a half of this is broken off and missing (one side of the threaded bit in the bit)so would need to fabricate suitable material to fill the area, so its a tennon end stem rebuild if you understand what I mean.
        my thoughts were to fabricate and fix the stem in place on the pipe,this would make it non removable but functional?
        Any ideas would be most welcome as you guys are the oracle(s) of pipe restoration!
        Many thanks

  9. Piper is calling

    I’m taking care of a mistreated full bent billiard meerschaum lady, and I would like to give her a blackened rim (e.g. Lee van Cleef’s meerschaum in “For a few dollars more”). I would highly appreciate any hint or advice about how to get the above mentioned finishing.
    Best regards,
    Piper is Calling

      1. Piper is calling

        Thanks for your suggestion. I was thinking on something like the old “Vienna meerschaum” or Peterson meers have. It seems to me they burn the rim with a torch, but I tried that without positive results.

  10. Lisa

    Hello, can anyone tell me if it’s possible to fix a hole in a sandblasted Oom Paul? It’s at the very bottom and goes all the way through to the bowl.

  11. Justin Hunter

    Hello I’ve recently purchased an interesting pipe stamped cpf and would like to know more about this pipe. I believe it is a horn stem(2 piece) and looks like a English bull dog.

  12. Mickameyer

    I have what I think is a Dr. Grabow rusticated Billiard with a threaded stem that was over screwed by an eighth of a turn or so. I used the boil the stem in the microwave method to realign the stem and by golly it worked. The little teeny white spade emblem came off the stem in the boil and I lost it, its so dang small. I was thinking about buying some white epoxy resin on Amazon for 6 or 7 dollars and fill in the inset and sand it down. Seems a little pricey seeing that I think I paid $2 for the pipe. Do you have any thoughts on this or perhaps a better alternative? I enjoy your website. Thanks in advance, Mick

    1. rebornpipes Post author

      Mick, I have used acrylic white paint and filled in the hole in the stem and then sanded it smooth. It took a couple of fillings with the paint but it worked well.

  13. Thomas Brown

    Greetings Brother-I bought a cheap Missouri meerschaum hardwood pipe to take hunting and just about had it right when I was removing the stem and the shank separated from the bowl. How should I secure it back into place or should I just trash it? I will not buy another just to have the same thing happen. You expert advice would be truly appreciated . I really hate to even bother you with such. Best Regards, Thomas Brown

  14. David Williams

    Saw a restoration for a Aluminum Featherweight Airograte by Yello Bole, I have one I want to restore and am looking for a new bowl and screen to restore this pipe. It currently has a yellow ceramic, coated wood bowl. Not sure it is useable. Anyone have one or know where to get one?

      1. rebornpipes Post author

        LOL! That is the question right. Most who use them do so to aid in the speedy building of cake. The idea is to protect the briar until a carbon coat forms.

        1. Alex Kramer

          Why is a layer of burnt crud desirable? I always clean my pipes pretty thoroughly every time I smoke them as part of the ritual. The last time I tried baking cakes in a few pipes I had to bring them to you because they stank. (Full disclosure: I don’t eat cake either!)

  15. rebornpipes Post author

    How do you make a bowl coating to protect a pipe? Some use honey and charcoal powder while others of us use yogurt or sour cream with charcoal powder…


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