Q & A Forum

Post your questions and read the answers and respond with your own. Questions and answers can be posted in the Comments section below. This section of rebornpipes is a forum to provide discussion on the work of pipe restoration and refurbishing. Post your questions here and check in regularly to see what answers may be given.

90 thoughts on “Q & A Forum

  1. Matt Nelson

    Greetings! Hoping for some help. Grateful for any counsel. Kicking myself for not researching better first. Oh well. Wondering if there’s hope for a briar pipe that’s been submerged in acetone. Not a very expensive one, just something I got on ebay to dip my to in the refurb/refinish end of the pool. Stupid me just dunked it without thinking about a human actually smoking it later. Can that be “burned” off or anything? Thank you.

    Reply
    1. rebornpipes Post author

      Fortunately acetone evaporates quickly and once dried leaves behind no trace. The plus side is that it quickly removes most finishes!

      Reply
  2. John L Rogers

    Postscript from John Rogers. Took a pic of the three pipes. Came out good. How do I shoot it to you?

    Reply
  3. Mike Mesaros

    Hi Steve. Best regards. Do you recommend building cake on older estate pipes that you have worked on? They smoke so well “off the truck”. Thanks

    Reply
  4. JR

    So I have a question and a beware. First, the beware. I was reading up on how you could take chatter out of vulcanite with a flame. I had just finished a beautiful Medico Carved “F” and had one gouge that sanding can’t fix. So I ran it over the flame but the end melted. Now I am starting over with super glue and sanding it down again. DUMB.

    For my question. I came across a ROPP Supreme with a diamond shank and diamond saddle stem. Barely used with a hairline split in the shank. My question is what should I clean the stummel with? Most pipes I have done, I’ve used Acetone to get the finish off and then work from there. This has a smooth bark covering most of it. I have heard mixed reviews of Murphy’s. Is that my best option?

    Thanks!

    Reply
    1. rebornpipes Post author

      The lighter trick only works on vulcanite not on the nylon/rubber stems of Medico…. It also does not work on acrylic.

      I carefully cleaned the stummels of the cherrywood with murphy’s (i have never had any issues with it and have been using it for over 20 years). do not soak the shank down just carefully scrub and rinse with warm water but do not soak it!

      Reply
        1. rebornpipes Post author

          I used Conservator’s Wax on the bark. You rub it on by hand and off with a soft cloth. You can also use Renaissance Wax or Paragon Wax as well

          Reply
  5. Jan

    Hello, I inherited my father’s pipes. There are 4 brand new, never smoked pipes in the original box made in London by Roy Tallent Ltd. in mint condition. 3 standard (17, 13 and X20) and 1 deluxe pipe (K125). Would anyone be interested in buying them? What would you offer me for the box plus the 4 pipes?

    Reply
  6. JR

    Hello again! I finished my first pipe, a Willard with a Kaywoodie stem, and am almost done with a second one, a Medico “F” Apple shaped one with laurel carvings. I am eyeing another pipe and I cannot find a reference to it ANYWHERE and I am hoping you can help. The stamp is hard to read. It is possible that it is an Iwan Ries…since Ries is the only thing I can read on the picture from the seller. I also can’t find the “model” as it looks like “Ossbland” and the pipe also has a sterling band with marks but very tarnished. Any thoughts? Thanks!

    Reply
    1. rebornpipes Post author

      Hi JR. Typically Iwan RIes pipes have an IRC on the stem side and are made in England, France and Italy. I have never seen on stamped Ossbland. Sorry about that

      Reply
  7. Matt J.

    First, thanks for making this such an amazing resource. I recently stained, then waxed with carnauba. The pipe shined at first, but now has a matte sheen. Should I have used Tripoli and White Diamond first to enhance the shine, then wax with carnauba? If so, do I need to strip everything off and start over? Would love your thoughts.

    Reply
    1. rebornpipes Post author

      Thanks Max. You can rebuff the pipe with a clean buffing pad and nothing on it and the shine will return. You should only have to rewax occasionally as the wax lasts long but goes matte when it neesds to be polished again. I keep one unused buffing pad for just his!

      Reply
      1. Matt J.

        Good tips, as always. How do you suppose the Savinellis, Nerrups and Winslows of the world achieve that factory fresh, hi-gloss shine that lasts? Do you every use a thin shellac or varnish? Any products that you recommend to achieve that look?

        Reply
  8. HP

    Yes! This is a very interesting and enjoyable site. Loads of info and helpful advice. But I would really like to know presently is, do you have any Savinelli Nonpareil pipes for sale???
    HP

    Reply
  9. J.R.

    First of all love this site…I have purchased my first estate pipe from a local antique store that I want to learn to restore and smoke myself. And I have my eye on two more there when I am done with this one. I have two questions. The pipe I purchased, on first glance, what I thought was a Kaywoodie. 4 hole drinkless stem (stamped Drinkless). It is a straight stem with a white clover inlay on top. It was brownish to begin and after the bath, it was like the oxidation COVERED the entire stem. Also, after rubbing at the strummel, I realized it was a Willard pipe. NO additional markings. JUST “WILLARD” stamped on it. So my questions. How can I protect the inlay if I have to sand oxidation that goes right up to the clover? Second question – can someone help me identify what type of Willard I have that would have a Kaywoodie drinkless stinger system? Thanks!
    P.S. Next stop, an Adventurer pipe with adjustomatic stamped on it with a broken stinger…AND then a Medico (leaf inlays, but no identification other than Medico) in excellent condition.

    Reply
    1. rebornpipes Post author

      JR. Thanks for the note. My guess would be that someone switched out a KW stem for the Willard as both had screw in tenons.. Put a piece of painters tape over the cloverleaf to avoid damage

      Reply
        1. rebornpipes Post author

          Yes, I have run into them before. They were typically a pipe made for soldiers during the war. They have an interesting history you can read on the blog or on Pipedia.

          Reply
  10. Ernie

    I received a pipe from eBay. Went to unscrew the stem and POP!! Someone was a bit careless with the superglue. Some got onto a small section of the stem and the pipe sticking the 2 together. Until I unscrewed it and the piece of stem and meerschaum that was stuck together dropped to the floor and separated. The shank part seems like a simple repair. The piece fits perfect, no chips missing and can be glued. I think I need a new stem though. When it broke, a couple very tiny pieces are missing. I think its only on the exterior. I’m going to try to glue it and see if it seals. If not I have a source for a replacement stem. My question is should I get the new stem and not bother with the repairing the original, or see how the repair goes? I think, if the chips are a bother that they can be filled with the super glue. Do they make amber colored superglue or something to color it with? Other than black or brown. Thanks

    Reply
    1. Matt

      Hi, love the website and the work you do. Your pictures look great. What do you use for lighting/light box and what kind of camera? I have tested a few ways to take pictures of my pipes and havent had a lot of success. Thanks!

      Reply
      1. rebornpipes Post author

        HI Matt I use my iPhone X for photos and I am amazed at the clarity of the photos when I dont shake and mess them up… I don’t have a light box at this point I just use a blue cloth in front of a window above my desk.. Seems to work well

        Reply
        1. Ernie

          You could make a rest for your phone out of simple pvc. Or use something to steady your hands. A piece of wood will suffice. Anything really. But you can assemble a phone rest with pvc. Build ia rectangle to fit your phone. The legs you can make one length, or you can have several lengths.

          Reply
    2. oldcorpspiper

      Hello, I’ve looked at the forum many times over the past couple of years, but never signed in or got evolved in the Q&As. I really enjoy the posts and photos and always seem to pick up a tip or two. I’m a firm believer in the old adage “never stop learning.”
      All that said, I have an old pipe on my bench that I’ve had for some time, but am just starting the restoration process. It’s in pretty fair shape, but was well loved. It has a horn stem with an unusual (to me) bayonet mount with two draft holes in the stummel. The stem has a few problem spots, but not too bad. A nice silver band on the shank. The briar is decent, but had quite a bit of pink putty to dig out. All ‘n all, I think it will be a nice old pipe when finished. But here’s the Q: the only markings on the pipe is C.A. inside an oval (fairly large). I have been completely unsuccessful in finding any info about the maker. Any thoughts or ideas are welcomed? Hal

      Reply
  11. Darby D Davis

    I just received a willard imported briar, and there is a chunk broken from the stem on the underside of the mouthpiece about a half inch long and 1/8 inch wide. the pieces were jammed into the stem, and as such are still present. I am trying to source a replacement stem or find a way to fix it.

    Reply
    1. rebornpipes Post author

      Thanks for the comment. Replacement stems are hard to find and generally are picked up on ebay if you pay attention. You could try to rebuild the stem end using super glue and charcoal. Reshape and rebuild it.

      Reply
      1. Andrey

        Good afternoon !!!! Tell me what does Before & After Restoration Balm consist of ???? Is that carnauba wax? Or solid Danish butter ???? Very nice poluchaetsya !!!!!!!!!!!!!
        Thanks for the answer from all the pipe smokers of our society !!!!
        Andrey.

        Reply
    2. Andrey

      Good afternoon !!! A very useful site. Sorry for my English. Write what it consists of …. Before & After Restoration Balm …. ???? Is that Carnauba wax ??? Or is it Danish butter ??? The tubes are very good after processing !!!! Thank you very much for the answer !!!!!!!
      Andrey !!!

      Reply
    3. Andrey

      Good afternoon !!!! Tell me what does Before & After Restoration Balm consist of ???? Is that carnauba wax? Or solid Danish butter ???? Very nice poluchaetsya !!!!!!!!!!!!!
      Thanks for the answer from all the pipe smokers of our society !!!!
      Andrey.

      Reply
  12. Roger Oliver

    I have a Jobey Stromboli briar pipe. Nice smoke. The stem insert broke, twice, and I cracked the stem getting the second one out. I don’t think the crack goes all the way into the stem except where it is threaded for the stem insert. I’m guessing I can still smoke it with a new insert. But, I would like to close that crack if possible. Could I use a little premixed wood putty? Any other suggestions? Thanks

    Reply
      1. Roger Oliver

        One more question. If you are familiar with the stem insert on the Jacoby pipes, any tips about how to keep them from breaking? It worked fine when I bought the pipe earlier this year. Best to turn the stem to the right so as not to unscrew the insert from the pipe. I managed to remove the broken insert and inserted a spare I had. But that one broke too turning the stem to the right per instructions when it was almost all the way in. The fit was very tight. Maybe a bit of olive or coconut oil might help?

        Thanks much, Roger

        Reply
        1. rebornpipes Post author

          Sent you an email. the gist of the response is that you should be careful how far you screw it into the shank. Always remember less is more when putting it in the shank.

          Reply
  13. Lucie Delhez

    Hi all,
    I have this pipe which is broken.



    I don’t know how to fix it. Can I use glue? Won’t that give off something toxic when I use the pipe?
    I feel it already held with glue before

    Thanks a lot !

    Reply
  14. David Gabert

    This weekend I received a lot of pipes. One is a Frankau’s Snapfit. The problem is that the stem just turns and is a bit sloppy. I will try putting it the freezer for a bit, but is there a particular trick to these pipes?

    Reply
  15. Jonathan Morlock

    Hi I recently bought a lot of 18 estate pipes and have been restoring them. From filling chips and repairing cracks to simple cleaning and polishing. One of the pipes is a smooth medium shaped Dublin. After removing layers of grime I was able to read the nomenclature which reads Middleton Silvay. From what I am able to find it could be made by comoys or royal ascot. My question is are you familiar with this brand as to when production ended? As it looks like they started being produced in the 1930s. Thanks for any help you might give.
    Jon

    Reply
  16. Danny Browne

    Is it expensive to have a pipe restored? I have a couple of pipes that I would love cleans up. They aren’t fancy pipes but I really like them? Thank you.

    Reply
      1. Josh

        I have some pipes that were recently recovered from a humid storage unit and are covered in mildew inside and out. Is there a reliable pipe repair place that could restore them? I’ve looked for someone I could send them out to, but can’t find anyone.

        Reply
  17. Tyler McMichael

    Hello,

    Excellent site! Really enjoy the history and craftsmanship for tobacco pipes. Just started my first restoration of an older Butz Chaquin “Virginia”, made in Claude France with the numbers 2403 stamped on it. It also has a screw on horn stem. I am taking it down to raw briar and then waxing it for a natural finish and aging. I really love the pipe, and wanted to make it my virginia smoking pipe. The only problem is that before my salt bath I wanted to run a pipe cleaner through with some alcohol and found that I could not get it down the shank. I looked in and saw a smaller hole inside and down from the screw hole, and it seemed to run to a smaller hole after that. I believe its a stinger of some sort, but I don’t know how to remove it. The threads for the stem are attached to metal band that clamps down to the shank and does not appear to be removable. I don’t know much about stingers that sit inside the shank, but would really like to get it out.

    I love this pipe and really want to restore it and not have the stinger. Any advice?

    I can send pics if needed.

    Thanks!

    Reply
  18. Jonathan Morlock

    Hello from Montana
    I have cleaned up a few Linkman pipes and I have a question about one of the bowl shapes and how common they were. The bowl is shaped like a four sided bolt. It is a linkman dr grabow deluxe bruyere pat no. 1896600 shape no. 9707 so if you are familiar with this one I am curious as I haven’t seen another one on the web

    Reply
    1. rebornpipes Post author

      Hi Jonathan, there may well be some information on the The Dr. Grabow Collectors Forum on Facebook. There used to be forum independent of the Facebook group that had a lot of helpful information

      Reply
  19. jorre9

    Hello,

    I am starting the pipe restoration hobby.
    This site is really my guide, so first i would like to say thank you for that!
    I am currently trying to understand the different products and their uses.
    I am not completely clear about the differeces between the following products:
    – before & after balm
    – paragon/halcyon II wax
    – Tripoli (buffing wheel)
    – white Diamond (buffing wheel)
    – carnauba wax (buffing wheel)
    I mostly understand what these products do individually but when I read about them they have simmilar purposes. When do you use which one?

    Thanks in advance!

    Greetings from Belgium

    Jorne

    Reply
    1. rebornpipes Post author

      Hello Jorne. I will try prioritize these items according to when I use them.
      1.Before Buffing – Before & After Balm is used to rejuvenate and protect the briar. I use it once I have polished the bowl with micromesh.
      2.Order of Buffing – Tripoli is the coarsest of the list you give. I don’t always use it. Typical on really rough stems and briar. White Diamond is the next one up and is a polishing compound. I use this most of the time before giving the bowl and stem wax.
      3. Waxing – Carnauba is the wax I use on the wheel on virtually every smooth pipe and every stem. It can only be applied with the wheel or a Dremel and miniwheel. Paragon and Halcyon were created for those without wheels. I use Halcyon or Conservators Wax on rusticated or sandblast finishes so that i do not get the build up in the grooves that come with buffing in carnauba.

      Hope that helps.

      Reply
  20. Jonathan Morlock

    Hi I have a question about a KBB Yello Bole century model. It is a Canadian oval shank. Just wondering what year it might have been made. I know certain dating items i.e the kbb clover being before 55 when they were bought out by s m Frank. But besides this I am not sure as it has no date code or one of the slogans marked on the pipe. So my guess is between 47 to 55. Just curious in Montana. Thanks.

    Reply
  21. Beefy

    Hi All,
    greetings from the U.K !
    I am looking for information regarding the restoration of a Redmanol pipe stem from an old CPF( I think) meerschaum. It has a portion of the tenon stem missing (about 1 half of the tenon thread in the stem)
    My question is, Can this be fixed without re stemming the pipe or other invasive procedures, also will redmanol bond with other materials/glues

    Reply
    1. rebornpipes Post author

      Greetings! I have worked on a lot of old CPF pipes with Redmanol stems. If the tenon is broken I have used a small drill bit and screwed it into the tenon and turned it out. If that does not work you can drill out the old bit. There are replacement tenons online through JH Lowe and Vermont Freehand…

      Reply
      1. ben

        Thanks, your help is appreciated, the old tennon is stuck fast in the shank, its where it screws into the tennon end of the bit where the problem is ,as approx. a third to a half of this is broken off and missing (one side of the threaded bit in the bit)so would need to fabricate suitable material to fill the area, so its a tennon end stem rebuild if you understand what I mean.
        my thoughts were to fabricate and fix the stem in place on the pipe,this would make it non removable but functional?
        Any ideas would be most welcome as you guys are the oracle(s) of pipe restoration!
        Many thanks

        Reply
  22. Piper is calling

    Greetings,
    I’m taking care of a mistreated full bent billiard meerschaum lady, and I would like to give her a blackened rim (e.g. Lee van Cleef’s meerschaum in “For a few dollars more”). I would highly appreciate any hint or advice about how to get the above mentioned finishing.
    Best regards,
    Piper is Calling

    Reply
      1. Piper is calling

        Thanks for your suggestion. I was thinking on something like the old “Vienna meerschaum” or Peterson meers have. It seems to me they burn the rim with a torch, but I tried that without positive results.

        Reply
  23. Lisa

    Hello, can anyone tell me if it’s possible to fix a hole in a sandblasted Oom Paul? It’s at the very bottom and goes all the way through to the bowl.

    Reply
  24. Justin Hunter

    Hello I’ve recently purchased an interesting pipe stamped cpf and would like to know more about this pipe. I believe it is a horn stem(2 piece) and looks like a English bull dog.

    Reply
  25. Mickameyer

    Greetings,
    I have what I think is a Dr. Grabow rusticated Billiard with a threaded stem that was over screwed by an eighth of a turn or so. I used the boil the stem in the microwave method to realign the stem and by golly it worked. The little teeny white spade emblem came off the stem in the boil and I lost it, its so dang small. I was thinking about buying some white epoxy resin on Amazon for 6 or 7 dollars and fill in the inset and sand it down. Seems a little pricey seeing that I think I paid $2 for the pipe. Do you have any thoughts on this or perhaps a better alternative? I enjoy your website. Thanks in advance, Mick

    Reply
    1. rebornpipes Post author

      Mick, I have used acrylic white paint and filled in the hole in the stem and then sanded it smooth. It took a couple of fillings with the paint but it worked well.

      Reply
  26. Thomas Brown

    Greetings Brother-I bought a cheap Missouri meerschaum hardwood pipe to take hunting and just about had it right when I was removing the stem and the shank separated from the bowl. How should I secure it back into place or should I just trash it? I will not buy another just to have the same thing happen. You expert advice would be truly appreciated . I really hate to even bother you with such. Best Regards, Thomas Brown

    Reply
  27. David Williams

    Hi,
    Saw a restoration for a Aluminum Featherweight Airograte by Yello Bole, I have one I want to restore and am looking for a new bowl and screen to restore this pipe. It currently has a yellow ceramic, coated wood bowl. Not sure it is useable. Anyone have one or know where to get one?
    Thanks
    Dave

    Reply
      1. rebornpipes Post author

        LOL! That is the question right. Most who use them do so to aid in the speedy building of cake. The idea is to protect the briar until a carbon coat forms.

        Reply
        1. Alex Kramer

          Why is a layer of burnt crud desirable? I always clean my pipes pretty thoroughly every time I smoke them as part of the ritual. The last time I tried baking cakes in a few pipes I had to bring them to you because they stank. (Full disclosure: I don’t eat cake either!)

          Reply
  28. rebornpipes Post author

    How do you make a bowl coating to protect a pipe? Some use honey and charcoal powder while others of us use yogurt or sour cream with charcoal powder…

    Reply

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