Post your questions and read the answers and respond with your own. Questions and answers can be posted in the Comments section below. This section of rebornpipes is a forum to provide discussion on the work of pipe restoration and refurbishing. Post your questions here and check in regularly to see what answers may be given.
rebornpipes
reclaiming old and worn estate pipes
I’m trying to find out about a Sep-ra-bol Italian dual chamber briar pipe. The only thing I can find on the entire internet about these pipes, is a video on YouTube that is of the exact same pipe. I have several of these brand new in boxes. Some used as well. Any information or advice on how to find out more wood be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
Hello,
I purchased a few Jost pipes and I’m trying to figure out how to research their history a bit more.
The first pipe has Comoy stamping on the briar. Its a small prince saddle bit. It has the ‘Made in England’ football stamp, which I guess means made somewhere between 1929-1939. The shape stamp is J552b. I’m assuming the J is for Jost. I did find a Neill Archer Roan Comoy shape chart that lists the 552b shape as a cat 2 prince (I really thought it was an apple, but I’m new to this, so what do I know?). On the other side is ‘Josts Olde English Deluxe.’ Which my understanding, according to one of your posts I think, is that is pretty desirable. It’s a beautiful pipe. The bit has a J stamp. Maybe that’s all the info that’s readily out there, but I’d love any suggestions or insight. Like once a year under a full moon Comoy secretly releases everything they’ve ever put to paper for a viewing public. I understand finding production year is difficult for Comoys.
The second Jost pipe is a large acorn quarter bent. ‘Imported briar’ is stamped on one side and ‘jost Supreme’ on the other along with a J on the stem. I’m wondering if it’s a Harvey Raspberry pipe or perhaps something else. Understandably there’s a lot less info on their in house made pipes.
I find the story of Josts fascinating and I’d love to know as much as I can on the pipes that bear their name.
Hi Kevin it sounds like you picked up some good ones. The only information I have is what is in the blogs on Jost pipes. I have not been able to find anything else. If you happen on more information please let us know as it is always good to develop more knowledge on a brand I love. Thank you
They’re really beautiful pipes. Thanks so much for the quick reply and your site in general. I’ll for sure give an update should I find out anything.
Q: Pipe Stem Basics
I am a newbie to pipes, actually getting back to it after many years away. I bought a bunch of pipes from eBay, some have chewed through stems and I want to replace them.
I looked at one pipe replacement catalog online, jhlowe, and didn’t know enough to make choices. I don’t actually understand the different parts of the stem or all the different factors that differentiate one pipe stem from another. I’ve looked online and was not able to find a simple, clear and thorough guide that would give me the information I need to make the right choices in choosing replacement stems.
I’m not even quite sure what a tenon is.
Is there an in-depth explanation somewhere here on your site or could people please provide one for someone who is basically an absolute beginner.
Thanks in advance for your help,
Jay
To rephrase the question, what I am really looking for is a
Guide to choosing a replacement stem
Thanks
Jay
Hi Jay. Replacement stems all have to be hand fitted to a stem. There are none that are exactly what you want to replace. Many folks have gone to repairing the old stems rather than replacing them. The tenon is the portion of the stem that inserts in the shank. The rest of the stem is either, round, square or oval. Typically the diameter of the tenon and the stem needs to be fit. There is no simple answer. You can also pick up “lots” meaning groups of stems on EBay for decent prices and these are less fitting work
Thank you. I still want to understand the basics. Also I ended up with a couple of bowls that did not have stems.
So for example, in the catalog it refers to things like
-round taper and round saddle.
-it gives lengths such as 9/16, 5/8, etc.
I think that refers to the width of the stem, not the tenon. Is that correct?
On some of my pipes I see that at the end of the tenon it seems to have a section smaller than the main tenon. Is that essential for my stem to fit properly?
If I were to get a new stem, is there any way of knowing what size the tenon is? From what I saw in the catalog I can pick a stem that will match the shank but I saw no indications of the size of the tenon. I would assume that if the tenon is too large it has to be resized. I’m guessing there are some tools to do this or I guess I could simply sand it if I can keep it round.
Also the hole at the mouthpiece- what is the technical name for this and are there measurements for this?
So for example I did end up with a couple of cheap corn cob style stems that I was able to make work on some of the pipes by putting some masking tape around the tenon but the mouthpiece hole seemed too big and changed the draw on the pipe. Also the tenon where it went into the shank did not have a small hole, it was very large and that affected the draw. Are there measurements for this or ways to tell about it when you are purchasing a stem.
One of the things I’m interested in is experimenting with how a pipe smokes with different length stems. I even thought of trying to pick up a long churchwarden stem somewhere. It looks like I can get some stems for about $2 each and since I’m finding that in general I do like a longer stem, I thought of picking some up just to replace some of my shorter stems.
Also I see that on some of your posts you have talked about building up the mouthpiece with glue but as a health nut this is not something I want to do. I am going to try applying heat to resize the hole of the tip by holding it over a candle and using some needle nose pliers.
I’m guessing somewhere on your site you have a guide to working on stems. Not to be lazy but if you could put a couple of links to those in the reply it would be appreciated.
Thanks again for your help,
Jay
Ok here are some attempts at answers. I have included them at the end of each of your questions
Thank you. I still want to understand the basics. Also I ended up with a couple of bowls that did not have stems.
So for example, in the catalog it refers to things like -round taper and round saddle. – this is the style of the stem. Round taper is a typical straight stem and round saddle is a stem that is round at the shank (end of the pipe where it fits) and then steps down on both sides to a flat blade to the button end that goes in your mouth.
-it gives lengths such as 9/16, 5/8, etc.
I think that refers to the width of the stem, not the tenon. Is that correct? – this is the diameter of the stem not the tenon.
On some of my pipes I see that at the end of the tenon it seems to have a section smaller than the main tenon. Is that essential for my stem to fit properly? – Older style stems have that step down look to the tenon and it fits the drilling of the shank. Typically new pipes do not have this style of tenon often a replacement stem does not have it either. It is ideal for a proper fit but most ignore it.
If I were to get a new stem, is there any way of knowing what size the tenon is? From what I saw in the catalog I can pick a stem that will match the shank but I saw no indications of the size of the tenon. I would assume that if the tenon is too large it has to be resized. I’m guessing there are some tools to do this or I guess I could simply sand it if I can keep it round. – in the blog I sent you there is a picture of the tenon tool that I use. All tenons need to be turned to fit the shank. None of them are proper sized when you get them. Look at the photos in the blog link I sent you and you will see the stem blank with the way the tenon looks and how much I had to take off to make it fit.
Also the hole at the mouthpiece- what is the technical name for this and are there measurements for this? – the end that fits in your mouth is call the button and the hole is the slot. There are no measurements for this and when you buy replacement stems they need to be cleaned up a bit.
So for example I did end up with a couple of cheap corn cob style stems that I was able to make work on some of the pipes by putting some masking tape around the tenon but the mouthpiece hole seemed too big and changed the draw on the pipe. Also the tenon where it went into the shank did not have a small hole, it was very large and that affected the draw. Are there measurements for this or ways to tell about it when you are purchasing a stem. – Cob stems are made for a paper Medico filter and are made of plastic. The replacement ones you buy are not made this way. They have a smaller normal sized hole.
One of the things I’m interested in is experimenting with how a pipe smokes with different length stems. I even thought of trying to pick up a long churchwarden stem somewhere. It looks like I can get some stems for about $2 each and since I’m finding that in general I do like a longer stem, I thought of picking some up just to replace some of my shorter stems. – That works but again the tenon needs to be fit
Also I see that on some of your posts you have talked about building up the mouthpiece with glue but as a health nut this is not something I want to do. I am going to try applying heat to resize the hole of the tip by holding it over a candle and using some needle nose pliers.
I use some clear superglue as it dries absolutely neutral – it was developed for use of binding wounds during the Vietnam conflict. I have not found any ill effects mentioned in all of my research before using it so that is why I do so. It is also not in your mouth and it does not gas off when heated.
I’m guessing somewhere on your site you have a guide to working on stems. Not to be lazy but if you could put a couple of links to those in the reply it would be appreciated. – There are so many that a quick scan will get you what you need. Probably every fourth or fifth blog covers this.
Thanks again for your help,
Jay
Thank you
Here is a blog I did on one – https://rebornpipes.com/2012/06/07/fitting-a-pipe-with-a-new-stem-photo-essay-20/
Just saw this. Will check out
What I saw is that a lot of your post involves working with real and specialized tools, including some power tools. I will basically be doing things with some pliers, sandpaper, knife and whatever else is around. Obviously my results are not going to be anywhere near the level of yours esthetically but to be honest as long as it works I’ll be happy.
If the passion for working on pipes ever takes me the way it has taken you maybe at that point I would get the tools but for now it’s rough and ready.
Thanks,
Jay
Thanks. The extent of my power tools are a Dremel, a cordless drill and bits and a buffer. Nothing else. I have a tenon turner as I replace a lot of stems. Other than that most of what I do is handwork.
I was probably just expressing the level of my own lack of facility with tools. For most people what you mentioned they probably have in their garage. I’m a guy who more or less knows the difference between a Phillips and a regular screwdriver but not much more and has a small tool kit.
Your detailed reply to my questions has been very helpful. I didn’t realize those corn cob stems were made for a filter and now I know that if I see a tenon with a smaller end it’s an old pipe. Actually a lot of the pipes I got were from the ’50s and maybe even the 40s.
I’m born 1956-i’m 65. I used to smoke a pipe from college into my early 30s, then gave it up and gave them away. After thinking about it for a while, this last 6 months I’ve gone back to it and have really enjoyed getting a bunch of pipes. I think I’m up to about 50 now and that’s enough. Average price around $15. I wanted to have some extra inexpensive ones to give to friends if they were interested so I just ended up getting 20 really beat up old American pipes for about $4 each. Those are the ones where the stems have issues but for some reason I’m really enjoying feeling like I’m connecting with that history.
If I may make a suggestion-
I know that you have all the information in various blogs on your website but it would be great to have
A beginner’s guide to pipes
and
A beginner’s guide to stems
(including working on stems and replacing stems)
As dedicated files on the menu
Before I put my question up on your blog I looked around on the internet and I really couldn’t find anything with the level of detail I was looking for. You clearly have a very deep knowledge.
Thanks again,
Jay
Jay I have a tab on the top of the page call pipe refurbishing links that give a listing of a lot of articles on the blog. Have a look there
I have seen that and looked at some of them but that’s different from a basic beginner’s guide explaining all the terms and parts in great detail.
https://rebornpipes.com/2013/03/15/what-are-pipes-made-of-and-toward-a-definition-of-pipe-parts/
Looking for some advice on calabash pipes. I have acquired a cpf. and the screw in part dose not fit snugly into the stem at all. How do you go about measuring/placement on the screw to make sure it fits right? Thanks
Hi William I have often had that happen. You can build up the threads on the existing tenon with clear nail polish as they tend to get worn over time. I use several applications and have had good success. If you want to measure the tenon remember it is worn. You are better off measuring the mortise with a micrometer and getting a tenon with that measurement
Hello, I have a pipe with char and crazing inside the bowl. How should I proceed? Should I sand down the charred/crazed areas? Is there a material I can use as a bowl coating? Thanks for your time.
Hard to know for sure without seeing pictures. You can send me a photo to slaug@uniserve.com and then I will have a look for you and make recommendations.
Greetings! Hoping for some help. Grateful for any counsel. Kicking myself for not researching better first. Oh well. Wondering if there’s hope for a briar pipe that’s been submerged in acetone. Not a very expensive one, just something I got on ebay to dip my to in the refurb/refinish end of the pool. Stupid me just dunked it without thinking about a human actually smoking it later. Can that be “burned” off or anything? Thank you.
Fortunately acetone evaporates quickly and once dried leaves behind no trace. The plus side is that it quickly removes most finishes!
Postscript from John Rogers. Took a pic of the three pipes. Came out good. How do I shoot it to you?
slaug@uniserve.com
Hi Steve. Best regards. Do you recommend building cake on older estate pipes that you have worked on? They smoke so well “off the truck”. Thanks
I like the o build a thin hard cake
So I have a question and a beware. First, the beware. I was reading up on how you could take chatter out of vulcanite with a flame. I had just finished a beautiful Medico Carved “F” and had one gouge that sanding can’t fix. So I ran it over the flame but the end melted. Now I am starting over with super glue and sanding it down again. DUMB.
For my question. I came across a ROPP Supreme with a diamond shank and diamond saddle stem. Barely used with a hairline split in the shank. My question is what should I clean the stummel with? Most pipes I have done, I’ve used Acetone to get the finish off and then work from there. This has a smooth bark covering most of it. I have heard mixed reviews of Murphy’s. Is that my best option?
Thanks!
The lighter trick only works on vulcanite not on the nylon/rubber stems of Medico…. It also does not work on acrylic.
I carefully cleaned the stummels of the cherrywood with murphy’s (i have never had any issues with it and have been using it for over 20 years). do not soak the shank down just carefully scrub and rinse with warm water but do not soak it!
would you use carnauba on the bark? or just the exposed wood?
I used Conservator’s Wax on the bark. You rub it on by hand and off with a soft cloth. You can also use Renaissance Wax or Paragon Wax as well
Hello, I inherited my father’s pipes. There are 4 brand new, never smoked pipes in the original box made in London by Roy Tallent Ltd. in mint condition. 3 standard (17, 13 and X20) and 1 deluxe pipe (K125). Would anyone be interested in buying them? What would you offer me for the box plus the 4 pipes?
Hi Jan… contact me via email at slaug@uniserve.com
Hello again! I finished my first pipe, a Willard with a Kaywoodie stem, and am almost done with a second one, a Medico “F” Apple shaped one with laurel carvings. I am eyeing another pipe and I cannot find a reference to it ANYWHERE and I am hoping you can help. The stamp is hard to read. It is possible that it is an Iwan Ries…since Ries is the only thing I can read on the picture from the seller. I also can’t find the “model” as it looks like “Ossbland” and the pipe also has a sterling band with marks but very tarnished. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Hi JR. Typically Iwan RIes pipes have an IRC on the stem side and are made in England, France and Italy. I have never seen on stamped Ossbland. Sorry about that
First, thanks for making this such an amazing resource. I recently stained, then waxed with carnauba. The pipe shined at first, but now has a matte sheen. Should I have used Tripoli and White Diamond first to enhance the shine, then wax with carnauba? If so, do I need to strip everything off and start over? Would love your thoughts.
Thanks Max. You can rebuff the pipe with a clean buffing pad and nothing on it and the shine will return. You should only have to rewax occasionally as the wax lasts long but goes matte when it neesds to be polished again. I keep one unused buffing pad for just his!
Good tips, as always. How do you suppose the Savinellis, Nerrups and Winslows of the world achieve that factory fresh, hi-gloss shine that lasts? Do you every use a thin shellac or varnish? Any products that you recommend to achieve that look?
Do you buy estate pipes from people looking to sell online?
I do. Send me an email to slaug@uniserve.com
Yes! This is a very interesting and enjoyable site. Loads of info and helpful advice. But I would really like to know presently is, do you have any Savinelli Nonpareil pipes for sale???
HP
Check out the rebornpipes store under Italian Pipe Makers. There are some there
First of all love this site…I have purchased my first estate pipe from a local antique store that I want to learn to restore and smoke myself. And I have my eye on two more there when I am done with this one. I have two questions. The pipe I purchased, on first glance, what I thought was a Kaywoodie. 4 hole drinkless stem (stamped Drinkless). It is a straight stem with a white clover inlay on top. It was brownish to begin and after the bath, it was like the oxidation COVERED the entire stem. Also, after rubbing at the strummel, I realized it was a Willard pipe. NO additional markings. JUST “WILLARD” stamped on it. So my questions. How can I protect the inlay if I have to sand oxidation that goes right up to the clover? Second question – can someone help me identify what type of Willard I have that would have a Kaywoodie drinkless stinger system? Thanks!
P.S. Next stop, an Adventurer pipe with adjustomatic stamped on it with a broken stinger…AND then a Medico (leaf inlays, but no identification other than Medico) in excellent condition.
JR. Thanks for the note. My guess would be that someone switched out a KW stem for the Willard as both had screw in tenons.. Put a piece of painters tape over the cloverleaf to avoid damage
Will do. Thank you. Have you ever run across a Willard without further ID before?
Yes, I have run into them before. They were typically a pipe made for soldiers during the war. They have an interesting history you can read on the blog or on Pipedia.
I received a pipe from eBay. Went to unscrew the stem and POP!! Someone was a bit careless with the superglue. Some got onto a small section of the stem and the pipe sticking the 2 together. Until I unscrewed it and the piece of stem and meerschaum that was stuck together dropped to the floor and separated. The shank part seems like a simple repair. The piece fits perfect, no chips missing and can be glued. I think I need a new stem though. When it broke, a couple very tiny pieces are missing. I think its only on the exterior. I’m going to try to glue it and see if it seals. If not I have a source for a replacement stem. My question is should I get the new stem and not bother with the repairing the original, or see how the repair goes? I think, if the chips are a bother that they can be filled with the super glue. Do they make amber colored superglue or something to color it with? Other than black or brown. Thanks
Before & After Restoration Balm
Hi, love the website and the work you do. Your pictures look great. What do you use for lighting/light box and what kind of camera? I have tested a few ways to take pictures of my pipes and havent had a lot of success. Thanks!
HI Matt I use my iPhone X for photos and I am amazed at the clarity of the photos when I dont shake and mess them up… I don’t have a light box at this point I just use a blue cloth in front of a window above my desk.. Seems to work well
You could make a rest for your phone out of simple pvc. Or use something to steady your hands. A piece of wood will suffice. Anything really. But you can assemble a phone rest with pvc. Build ia rectangle to fit your phone. The legs you can make one length, or you can have several lengths.
Instead of a rectangle you could make a square.
Instead of a rectangle, you could use a square.
Hello, I’ve looked at the forum many times over the past couple of years, but never signed in or got evolved in the Q&As. I really enjoy the posts and photos and always seem to pick up a tip or two. I’m a firm believer in the old adage “never stop learning.”
All that said, I have an old pipe on my bench that I’ve had for some time, but am just starting the restoration process. It’s in pretty fair shape, but was well loved. It has a horn stem with an unusual (to me) bayonet mount with two draft holes in the stummel. The stem has a few problem spots, but not too bad. A nice silver band on the shank. The briar is decent, but had quite a bit of pink putty to dig out. All ‘n all, I think it will be a nice old pipe when finished. But here’s the Q: the only markings on the pipe is C.A. inside an oval (fairly large). I have been completely unsuccessful in finding any info about the maker. Any thoughts or ideas are welcomed? Hal
Hi Hal… the pipe sounds like it is an old one. Can you send me pics to slaug@uniserve.com so I can have a look?
I just received a willard imported briar, and there is a chunk broken from the stem on the underside of the mouthpiece about a half inch long and 1/8 inch wide. the pieces were jammed into the stem, and as such are still present. I am trying to source a replacement stem or find a way to fix it.
Thanks for the comment. Replacement stems are hard to find and generally are picked up on ebay if you pay attention. You could try to rebuild the stem end using super glue and charcoal. Reshape and rebuild it.
Good afternoon !!!! Tell me what does Before & After Restoration Balm consist of ???? Is that carnauba wax? Or solid Danish butter ???? Very nice poluchaetsya !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the answer from all the pipe smokers of our society !!!!
Andrey.
Good afternoon !!! A very useful site. Sorry for my English. Write what it consists of …. Before & After Restoration Balm …. ???? Is that Carnauba wax ??? Or is it Danish butter ??? The tubes are very good after processing !!!! Thank you very much for the answer !!!!!!!
Andrey !!!
Good afternoon !!!! Tell me what does Before & After Restoration Balm consist of ???? Is that carnauba wax? Or solid Danish butter ???? Very nice poluchaetsya !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the answer from all the pipe smokers of our society !!!!
Andrey.
I am not sure what is consists of but is like a buttery texture
Thanks. If you didn’t do it but bought it, please write what is it called?
Thanks Andrey.
I have a Jobey Stromboli briar pipe. Nice smoke. The stem insert broke, twice, and I cracked the stem getting the second one out. I don’t think the crack goes all the way into the stem except where it is threaded for the stem insert. I’m guessing I can still smoke it with a new insert. But, I would like to close that crack if possible. Could I use a little premixed wood putty? Any other suggestions? Thanks
Can you send me a photo of the area to slaug@uniserve.com then I can assess it. Thanks
One more question. If you are familiar with the stem insert on the Jacoby pipes, any tips about how to keep them from breaking? It worked fine when I bought the pipe earlier this year. Best to turn the stem to the right so as not to unscrew the insert from the pipe. I managed to remove the broken insert and inserted a spare I had. But that one broke too turning the stem to the right per instructions when it was almost all the way in. The fit was very tight. Maybe a bit of olive or coconut oil might help?
Thanks much, Roger
Sent you an email. the gist of the response is that you should be careful how far you screw it into the shank. Always remember less is more when putting it in the shank.
Hi all,
I have this pipe which is broken.
I don’t know how to fix it. Can I use glue? Won’t that give off something toxic when I use the pipe?
I feel it already held with glue before
Thanks a lot !
Lucie it appears that the tenon broke off in the shank. It should be pulled out and a new tenon drilled and fitted in the stem. Don’t glue it!
This weekend I received a lot of pipes. One is a Frankau’s Snapfit. The problem is that the stem just turns and is a bit sloppy. I will try putting it the freezer for a bit, but is there a particular trick to these pipes?
Never figures one out. Google and see if you can find a patent diagram
I’ll keep working on it! Thanks for reply and thanks for all write ups and tricks.
Hi I recently bought a lot of 18 estate pipes and have been restoring them. From filling chips and repairing cracks to simple cleaning and polishing. One of the pipes is a smooth medium shaped Dublin. After removing layers of grime I was able to read the nomenclature which reads Middleton Silvay. From what I am able to find it could be made by comoys or royal ascot. My question is are you familiar with this brand as to when production ended? As it looks like they started being produced in the 1930s. Thanks for any help you might give.
Jon
Have a look here http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-m5.html The brand is made for John Middleton Tobacco Company. Have a look at the link and you will see the Silvay there as well.
Is it expensive to have a pipe restored? I have a couple of pipes that I would love cleans up. They aren’t fancy pipes but I really like them? Thank you.
Depends on the condition of the pipes. A general restoration by most folks runs about 30-35USD
I have some pipes that were recently recovered from a humid storage unit and are covered in mildew inside and out. Is there a reliable pipe repair place that could restore them? I’ve looked for someone I could send them out to, but can’t find anyone.
Hello,
Excellent site! Really enjoy the history and craftsmanship for tobacco pipes. Just started my first restoration of an older Butz Chaquin “Virginia”, made in Claude France with the numbers 2403 stamped on it. It also has a screw on horn stem. I am taking it down to raw briar and then waxing it for a natural finish and aging. I really love the pipe, and wanted to make it my virginia smoking pipe. The only problem is that before my salt bath I wanted to run a pipe cleaner through with some alcohol and found that I could not get it down the shank. I looked in and saw a smaller hole inside and down from the screw hole, and it seemed to run to a smaller hole after that. I believe its a stinger of some sort, but I don’t know how to remove it. The threads for the stem are attached to metal band that clamps down to the shank and does not appear to be removable. I don’t know much about stingers that sit inside the shank, but would really like to get it out.
I love this pipe and really want to restore it and not have the stinger. Any advice?
I can send pics if needed.
Thanks!
Sounds like an integrated stinger/tenon and not readily removable. You can send a pic to me at slaug@uniserve.com and I will have a look
Hello from Montana
I have cleaned up a few Linkman pipes and I have a question about one of the bowl shapes and how common they were. The bowl is shaped like a four sided bolt. It is a linkman dr grabow deluxe bruyere pat no. 1896600 shape no. 9707 so if you are familiar with this one I am curious as I haven’t seen another one on the web
Hi Jonathan, there may well be some information on the The Dr. Grabow Collectors Forum on Facebook. There used to be forum independent of the Facebook group that had a lot of helpful information
There still is an independent forum, it’s on tapatalk here https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/drgrabows/
Hello,
I am starting the pipe restoration hobby.
This site is really my guide, so first i would like to say thank you for that!
I am currently trying to understand the different products and their uses.
I am not completely clear about the differeces between the following products:
– before & after balm
– paragon/halcyon II wax
– Tripoli (buffing wheel)
– white Diamond (buffing wheel)
– carnauba wax (buffing wheel)
I mostly understand what these products do individually but when I read about them they have simmilar purposes. When do you use which one?
Thanks in advance!
Greetings from Belgium
Jorne
Hello Jorne. I will try prioritize these items according to when I use them.
1.Before Buffing – Before & After Balm is used to rejuvenate and protect the briar. I use it once I have polished the bowl with micromesh.
2.Order of Buffing – Tripoli is the coarsest of the list you give. I don’t always use it. Typical on really rough stems and briar. White Diamond is the next one up and is a polishing compound. I use this most of the time before giving the bowl and stem wax.
3. Waxing – Carnauba is the wax I use on the wheel on virtually every smooth pipe and every stem. It can only be applied with the wheel or a Dremel and miniwheel. Paragon and Halcyon were created for those without wheels. I use Halcyon or Conservators Wax on rusticated or sandblast finishes so that i do not get the build up in the grooves that come with buffing in carnauba.
Hope that helps.
Thank you this helps alot!
Hi I have a question about a KBB Yello Bole century model. It is a Canadian oval shank. Just wondering what year it might have been made. I know certain dating items i.e the kbb clover being before 55 when they were bought out by s m Frank. But besides this I am not sure as it has no date code or one of the slogans marked on the pipe. So my guess is between 47 to 55. Just curious in Montana. Thanks.
Sounds like your logic is spot on. I am not sure you can get it much closer than that for a date.
Hi All,
greetings from the U.K !
I am looking for information regarding the restoration of a Redmanol pipe stem from an old CPF( I think) meerschaum. It has a portion of the tenon stem missing (about 1 half of the tenon thread in the stem)
My question is, Can this be fixed without re stemming the pipe or other invasive procedures, also will redmanol bond with other materials/glues
Greetings! I have worked on a lot of old CPF pipes with Redmanol stems. If the tenon is broken I have used a small drill bit and screwed it into the tenon and turned it out. If that does not work you can drill out the old bit. There are replacement tenons online through JH Lowe and Vermont Freehand…
Thanks, your help is appreciated, the old tennon is stuck fast in the shank, its where it screws into the tennon end of the bit where the problem is ,as approx. a third to a half of this is broken off and missing (one side of the threaded bit in the bit)so would need to fabricate suitable material to fill the area, so its a tennon end stem rebuild if you understand what I mean.
my thoughts were to fabricate and fix the stem in place on the pipe,this would make it non removable but functional?
Any ideas would be most welcome as you guys are the oracle(s) of pipe restoration!
Many thanks
Greetings,
I’m taking care of a mistreated full bent billiard meerschaum lady, and I would like to give her a blackened rim (e.g. Lee van Cleef’s meerschaum in “For a few dollars more”). I would highly appreciate any hint or advice about how to get the above mentioned finishing.
Best regards,
Piper is Calling
I have done that with either a Black Stain Pen or a Black Sharpie pen with good results. Let us know how it works!
Thanks for your suggestion. I was thinking on something like the old “Vienna meerschaum” or Peterson meers have. It seems to me they burn the rim with a torch, but I tried that without positive results.
Hello, can anyone tell me if it’s possible to fix a hole in a sandblasted Oom Paul? It’s at the very bottom and goes all the way through to the bowl.
Yes it is possible. It needs to be drilled out and a plug put in the bowl.
Hello! Regarding BBB Christmas pipes : Which year was the first Christmas pipe made ?
Sincerely J.A.Winther
I am not sure
Hello I’ve recently purchased an interesting pipe stamped cpf and would like to know more about this pipe. I believe it is a horn stem(2 piece) and looks like a English bull dog.
Here is a link to my reflections on the CPF history. There are also a lot of restorations on CPFs as it is a brand I collect.
https://rebornpipes.com/2013/04/14/some-reflection-on-the-historical-background-on-cpf-pipes/
Greetings,
I have what I think is a Dr. Grabow rusticated Billiard with a threaded stem that was over screwed by an eighth of a turn or so. I used the boil the stem in the microwave method to realign the stem and by golly it worked. The little teeny white spade emblem came off the stem in the boil and I lost it, its so dang small. I was thinking about buying some white epoxy resin on Amazon for 6 or 7 dollars and fill in the inset and sand it down. Seems a little pricey seeing that I think I paid $2 for the pipe. Do you have any thoughts on this or perhaps a better alternative? I enjoy your website. Thanks in advance, Mick
Mick, I have used acrylic white paint and filled in the hole in the stem and then sanded it smooth. It took a couple of fillings with the paint but it worked well.
Greetings Brother-I bought a cheap Missouri meerschaum hardwood pipe to take hunting and just about had it right when I was removing the stem and the shank separated from the bowl. How should I secure it back into place or should I just trash it? I will not buy another just to have the same thing happen. You expert advice would be truly appreciated . I really hate to even bother you with such. Best Regards, Thomas Brown
Thomas you can glue the shank into the bowl wood glue or Elmers works great and an easy fix
Hi,
Saw a restoration for a Aluminum Featherweight Airograte by Yello Bole, I have one I want to restore and am looking for a new bowl and screen to restore this pipe. It currently has a yellow ceramic, coated wood bowl. Not sure it is useable. Anyone have one or know where to get one?
Thanks
Dave
Alex since you are not eating either one you can still use it! It dries hard and is neutral….
Why coat the bowl at all?
LOL! That is the question right. Most who use them do so to aid in the speedy building of cake. The idea is to protect the briar until a carbon coat forms.
Why is a layer of burnt crud desirable? I always clean my pipes pretty thoroughly every time I smoke them as part of the ritual. The last time I tried baking cakes in a few pipes I had to bring them to you because they stank. (Full disclosure: I don’t eat cake either!)
Is there a vegan alternative? 😉
How do you make a bowl coating to protect a pipe? Some use honey and charcoal powder while others of us use yogurt or sour cream with charcoal powder…
Is there a vegan alternative? 😉
I use maple syrup with activated charcoal. Seems to work well.