Author Archives: upshallfan

Another Peterson Shape 56 (9BC)


By Al Jones

For the 2nd time in less than one year, I found yet another Peterson Shape 56.  Last year, I discovered this shape, which was a bit of a puzzle.  It looked nearly identical to my favorite Peterson shape, the 9BC.  Thanks to some pipe sleuthing by Steve Laug, we learned that the shape 56 was indeed the Canadian version of the 9BC.  The Canadian importer, Genin, Trudeau & Co. used their own unique numbering system.   Full details for that first Shape 56 can be found at this blog entry:

https://rebornpipes.com/2019/07/25/peterson-shape-56-mystery/

One definite point of difference between the two shapes is that the shape 56 has a more slender profile of the stem near the button.  I’ve learned to prefer this slimmer profile.

This one was also a Kapruff and it had a splash of grain on one side.  The pipe was in very good shape.  The stem had light oxidation, the P stamp was deeply impressed and it was nearly bite free.  The briar was unblemised, including the bowl top and nomenclature.  There was only a slight hint of tobacco in the chamber and it looked well cared for.

The first step was to apply some white Gel nail polish to the P and the stem was set aside to dry for a day.  I used a piece of Micromesh to remove the excess nail polish.

There was no need to ream the pipe, so I used a piece of 320 grit paper on a reamer bit to clean up the bowl.  The pipe was soaked with alcohol and sea salt.  Following the soak, the stem was mounted and I started to remove the oxidation.  There was a small tooth indention on the underside of the button, which raised nicely with heat from a lighter flame.  The oxidation was removed with 800, 400, 1500 and 2000 grit wet paper.  The stem was buffed with White Diamond and Meguiars Plastic polish.

Below is the finished pipe.

 

Kaywoodie Yacht (Shape 35) – 1936?


By Al Jones

This Kaywoodie caught my eye as I didn’t recall seeing the Shape 35 previously.  It looked like a Churchwarden, and similar to the more common Shape 95.  I didn’t find much on the Shape 35.  Pipepedia shows alternately, that it is listed in the 1927 catalog, then elsewhere shows it was in the 1936 catalog.  I found no picture of the shape in any catalog, only the reference to the shape number.  This pipe clearly has the Yacht bowl.  Apparently there was also a 35L.  Was “In Between” a reference to a shape slightly smaller than the 95 Churchwarden?  By the 1940’s, the is no longer shown in catalogs.

Dating this pipe was made more difficult because the stinger has been cut off.    This was good and bad news.  Good in the fact that my Shape 95 had the original 4-hole stinger but the draft was very tight and it did not smoke well.  I always wondered how it would smoke without the stinger.   I found the long, Shape 95 awkward to smoke, so I’m curious to see how this one fits my style.

The pipe was in relatively good condition, given its age.  Like most longer pipes, there was some scorching on the bowl top.  The stem was over clocked, but otherwise in good shape.   The nomenclature was as new.

The first order of business was to re-orient the stem.  I used a heat gun to warm the aluminum singer end, which softened the glue into the stem.  It has a very fine thread, so care is needed.  I removed the stinger, and after determine the proper orientation, re-glued it with wood glue.

I used micromesh to remove the bowl top scorching.  There were a few minor dings around the bowl, I used a wet cloth and electric iron to steam them out.

I removed the heavy oxidation on the stem with 400>800>1500 and 2000 grade wet sandpaper, followed by 8000 and 12000 grade micromesh.  The stem was then buffed with White Diamond and Meguiars Plastic polish.

The bowl had a very slight cake, but even my smallest reamer wouldn’t fit.  I used a piece of 320 grit paper on the end of a marker cap to remove the very slight cake.  The bowl was then soaked with alcohol and sea salt.  The bowl was then carefully buffed with White Diamond and Carnuba wax.

Below is the finished pipe.

 

Comoys 337C Restoration


By Al Jones

The 337C is a classic Prince shape from the pre-Cadogan era for Comoys.   This 1975 shape chart, courtesy of Pipepedia shows the 337.  However, I’ve never seen a 337 without the C designation

This one has stamping that is consistent with those made from the late 1940’s to the merger point in 1981.   The pipes condition made for a relatively simple restoration with only some bowl top build-up and an oxidized stem.

Below is the pipe as it was received.

I reamed the modest cake, and soaked the bowl with sea salt and alcohol.  While the bowl was soaking, I put a dab of grease on the C stem logo, and soaked it in a mild solution of Oxyclean.  Following the soak, the shank was cleaned and stem inserted.

I used a piece of worn scotchbrite to clean the bowl top.  The briar was lightly buffed with White Diamond and several coats of Carnuba wax.  I used a lighter flame to lift the slight dents in the stem near the button.  The oxidation was removed with 800, 1,500 and 2,000 grit wet sandpaper, followed by 8,000 and 12,000 micromesh sheets.  The stem was then buffed with White Diamond rouge and Meguiars plastic polish.

Below is the finished pipe.

 

Selected Straight Grain Author (256) Restoration


By Al Jones

It’s  been several years since I’ve had the opportunity to restore a Selected Straight Grain pipe.  Selected Straight Grain pipes were 2nd line offerings from Comoy’s and represent a good value for a pipe that might have a few flaws or fills.

Pipepedia describes the line as:

Selected Straight Grain. These were in effect a “Specimen Straight Grain” second that exhibited some small flaw or sand pit. They were listed in the 1965 catalogue at $15 or $17.50 in Extraordinaire size.

This one had a little bit of competition on Ebay, despite somewhat poor photos.  It appeared to be in good condition with no visible issues.  On arrival, the condition was as expected, but I was somewhat disappointed to not find the shape 256 stamp (indeed, no shape stamp) and the Country of Manufacture stamp was also a bit odd.  When I pulled the stem, I was pleased to see the Comoy’s metal reinforcing ring in the shank and in the tenon.

The pipe has some slight build-up on the bowl top,  mild cake and a lightly oxidized stem.  The button only had mild abrasions.  Below is the pipe as it was received.

I used a worn piece of Scotchbrite to remove the black build-up on the bowl top, then 8,000 grit micromesh. The cake was removed with my Pipenet reamer set and a piece of 320 grit sandpaper to finish the interior of the bowl, which was in great shape.  The pipe was soaked with alcohol and sea salt.

Following the soak, the stem was mounted.  I removed the oxidation with 800, 1500 and 2000 grit wet sandpaper, followed by 8,000 and 12,000 micromesh sheets.  The stem was buffed with White Diamond rouge and Meguiars Plastic Polish.

I lightly buffed the bowl with White Diamond and several coats of Carnuba wax. Below is the finished pipe.

1979 Peterson 998 Challenge


By Al Jones

This one appeared to be another simple restoration, but it turned out to be quite challenging in one respect, and I almost gave up hope that I could solve the issue.  The sellers picture didn’t offer many details about the pipe, and I assumed it was a Donegal Rocky 999.  The pipe looked in decent shape and the seller accepted my offer.  I also assumed it wouldn’t have a hallmark, typically lacking on Rodgers US import 999’s.

I was surprised to discover that the pipe was not a 999, but a 998, the first on my workbench. And, with a little silver polish, the lower case “n” was revealed for a production year of 1979 – the year I graduated from high school, so that put a smile on my face.

From Mark Irwins blog entry on the John Bull, we know that the 998 shape was introduced in the 1970’s.  Below, a picture from a 1977 catalog. Marks blog describes the 998 as:

Around 1977, as seen in the Associated Imports Distributor’s Catalog illustrations above, the John Bull 999 became the XL999, and Peterson introduced shape 998, a stream-lined version of the 999 The two shapes ran alongside one another for several years, which happens when shapes are in transition. The XL999 / 999 Large John Bull was still in the 1987 catalog, but by the 1992 Handmade Brochure it had morphed into the slimmer 998 shape, which number was henceforth deleted from the catalog. I might add it was still called the “John Bull,” and Pete Nuts worthy of the name should educate all comers that while others may call the shape a bent Rhodesian, we know better.

Most 999’s weigh in the mid-50 gram range, while this 998 weighs 40 grams.

Here is the pipe as it was received:

The stem was not inserted fully into the shank, and it was a very tight fit.  I assumed there was build-up in the shank and once cleaned, the stem would be able to be inserted fully into the shank.  I filled the bowl with sea salt and alcohol and let it soak for several hours.  Following the soak, the shank was cleaned with bristle brushes dipped in alcohol and scrunched in paper towels.  They all came out very clean.  I attempted to insert the stem, but still oddly found it very tight.  I put some graphite dust on the tenon and that allowed it be inserted fully, and it didn’t feel too tight.

I started removing the light oxidation on the stem and decided to tape off the silver collar. That is when the trouble started – the stem could not be budged.  I put the pipe in the freezer for several hours, which usually expands the wood and loosens the stem.  That practice did not work, despite exerting a lot of pressure on the stem.  I then started trying everything I could think of to loosen the stem – soaked the bowl with alcohol, put an alcohol soaked cleaner in the stem (which goes nicely into the bowl).  I put the pipe back in the freezer several times, with no success.  I tried heating the stem and even smoked it (smoked great, but did nothing to loosen the stem!).   I let it sit for a day and decided to heat the strummel again with a heat gun.  I was afraid of exposing the silver collar to too much heat.  But, this time it worked and I was able to remove the stem.  I checked inside the shank again and found it just as clean and build-up free as before.  I then wet sanded the tenon with 1500 grit paper and that allowed the stem to be inserted fully and only snugly, not over tight.

Now that that problem was solved, I shined the stem with 800, 1,500 and 2,000 wet paper.  This was followed by 8,000 and 12,000 micromesh. I used a Magic Eraser sponge around the stamped P stem logo.  The stem was then polished with White Diamond and Meguiars Plastic Polish.  I hand polished the briar with Halycon wax.

Below is the finished pipe, which I’m happy to add to my collection and my only 1979 hallmarked pipe.

 

 

 

 

Comoys Supreme Grain Bent Billiard Restoration


By Al Jones

This is the 2nd Comoys that I restored this weekend.  And, the first “Supreme Grain” that I’ve ever seen.  I found a few examples on the web.  The pipe was in very solid condition.  Unfortunately, I also lost the before pictures of this pipe and only have the sellers.  As you can see, it is aptly named, and better grain than some Blue Ribands that I’ve seen.

The pipe had very light oxidation and a few dings and bruises in the briar.  The shape 42 is the larger of the two Comoy’s bent billiards.

I initially thought it had a drilled C and started restoration the restoration with my usual regiment, which involves sanding right over the very durable logo.  I was horrified on closer examination to find out that the logo was not drilled.  However, it is seemingly quite deep and almost looks like an insert of sorts.  I’ve done a lot of Comoys pipes from every era, but not yet encountered one quite like this one.

I removed the very light oxidation with 800, 1,500 and 2,000 grit wet paper, this was followed by 8,000 and 12,000 micromesh. The stem was then buffed with White Diamond and Meguiars Plastic Polish.

The bowl was reamed and soaked with alcohol and sea salt.  I used an electric iron on high with a wet cloth to steam out most of the dings around the bowl.  The bowl was then buffed with White Diamond and several coats of Carnuba wax.

Below is the finished pipe.

Comoys 184 Golden Grain Restoration


By Al Jones

This looked like an easy restoration, but once in hand, it presented a few challenges.  I somehow deleted the “before” pictures, so I can’t share them.  This sellers picture shows that it was in pretty decent shape.  The shape 184 is listed as a Bent Apple on the Comoys shape chart and catalogs.

There was a white piece of the drilled, C stem logo and the button had what appeared to be a very poorly done hole repair.

The briar only needed to be reamed and soaked.  There were a few dents that I steamed out with an electric iron and cloth.

For the C logo fix, I entered a local beauty shop for the first time in my life and they recommended a white gel nail polish.  I applied the polish,let it sit overnight, than sanded smooth with 800 grit paper, it worked quite well and to the naked eye, is invisible.

I removed the very light oxidation with 800, 1,500 and 2,000  grit wet paper, this was followed by 8,000 and 12,000 micromesh.  This removed the poor repair job to a tiny pin hole underneath the bottom. I used the black superglue and accelerator to make that repair.  I cut a small v-shaped piece from an old credit card, coated that in grease and inserted it into the button to keep glue from sealing the draft hole.  Once the glue set, the plastic card is removed.

The stem was buffed with White Diamond and Meguiars Plastic Polish.

The briar was buffed lightly with White Diamond and several coats of Carnuba wax.

Below is the finished pipe.