Restoring a Jeantet Bon-Cout Billiard with an acrylic taper stem

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by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the table is a great looking rusticated Billiard with a smooth rim topo and band on the top and shank end. It was one purchased on 01/20/2026 from a Facebook seller in Quaker Town, Pennsylvania, USA. The bowl and the shank are tightly rusticated. The top of the bowl and the end of the shank band are smooth. It is a great looking pipe. It is stamped on the left side of the shank and reads Jeantet [over] Bon-Cout. The finish was dirty and had a lot of grime and grit ground into the rustication and the smooth portions. The rim top and inner edge of the bowl is dirty with a light lava flow on the edge and the top that was heavier toward the back of the bowl. There is a thick cake in the bowl. The stem is dirty and has light tooth marks and chatter on the surface. It had the Jeantet J logo on the left side, Hand [over] Cut on the right side, and France on the underside. Jeff took photos of the pipe before he started his clean up work. It showed a lot of promise. Jeff took photos of the bowl and rim top to show the cake in the bowl and the lava on the inner edge of the top. The lava is quite thick on the inner edge. He also took photos of the stem to show the tooth marks and chatter on the oxidized stem. He took photos of the bowl and heel to show the condition of the finish. The combination of rustication – tight pattern – and smooth portions look very good and are a great contrast to the marble, almost tortoise stem. Jeff took photos of the stamping on the shank and the logo on the stem. They read as noted above and were in excellent condition. I turned to Pipephil’s site to see what I could learn about the Bon-Cout line of Jeantet pipes (http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-jeantet.html). There was nothing specific about that line though was a brief summary of the history. I quote from the top bar below:

The company joined the Cuty-Fort Entreprises group (Chacom, Ropp, Vuillard, Jean Lacroix…) in 1992. In 2010 it dropped out and the brand isn’t part of the group any more. The label is owned by the Jeantet family (Dominique Jeantet) again. The pipe production is discontinued. Dominique Jeantet retired in 2000. See also: Antidote, Duke of Kent, Grand Duke, Hermes, Sir Bruce, Sir Duke

I turned to Pipedia to get a more detailed history of the brand (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Jeantet). There as a short history there that I have reproduced below.

The firm of the Jeantet family in Saint-Claude is first mentioned as early as 1775. By 1807 the Jeantets operated a turnery producing in particular wooden shanks for porcelain pipes and wild cherry wood pipes. The firm was named Jeantet-David in 1816, and in 1837 the enterprise was transformed into a corporation as collective name for numerous workshops scattered all over the city.

The manufacturing of briar pipes and began in 1858. 51 persons were employed by 1890. Desirous to concentrate the workers at a single site, the corporation began to construct a factory edifying integrated buildings about 1891 at Rue de Bonneville 12 – 14. This took several years. In 1898 Maurice Jeantet restructured the business. He is also presumed to enlarge Jeantet factory purchasing a workshop adjoining southerly. It belonged to the family Genoud, who were specialized in rough shaping of stummels and polishing finished pipes. (In these times it was a most common procedure to carry goods from here to there and back again often for certain steps of the production executed by dependant family based subcontractors. Manpower was cheap.)

Jeantet was transformed to a corporation with limited liability in 1938. By that time a branch workshop was operated in Montréal-la-Cluse (Ain), where mainly the less expensive pipes were finished. 107 employees – 26 of them working from their homes – were counted in Saint-Claude in 1948 and 18 in the Ain facility.

The Saint-Claude factory was considerably modernized by ca. 1950 installing (e.g.) freight elevators. In 1952 the southern workshop was elevated. 80 workers were employed in 1958. The factory covered an area of 2831 m²; 1447 m² of the surface were buildings.

The climax of the pipe production was reached around 1969, when thirty to thirty five thousand dozens of pipes were made by 72 workers (1969). But then the production continuously dwindled to only six or seven thousand dozens in 1987 and only 22 workers were still there. Even though, around 1979 a very modern steam powered facility for drying the briar had been installed in the factory’s roofed yard.

Yves Grenard, formerly Jeantet’s chief designer and a great cousin of Pierre Comoy, had taken over the management of Chapuis-Comoy in 1971. Now, to preserve the brand, the Jeantet family went into negotiations with him, and resulting from that Jeantet was merged in the Cuty Fort Group (est. 1987 and headed by Chacom) in 1988 along with the pipe brands of John Lacroix and Emile Vuillard. Chacom closed the Jeantet plant, and the City of Saint-Claude purchased it in 1989. After alternative plans failed, the buildings were devoted to wrecking. The southerly workshop was wrecked before 1992.

Today Jeantet pipes were produced as a sub-brand by Chapuis-Comoy who’s mainstay is Chacom of course.

Jeff carefully cleaned up this Jeantet Bon-Cout Billiard with a variegated brown/orange acrylic taper stem with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush to remove the grime on the rim top and bowl sides. He reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer and then cleaned up the inside of the bowl with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the internals of the shank and stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol until the airways were clean and the pipe smelled fresh. The pipe looked much better once the bowl and stem were clean. He scrubbed the stem with Soft Scrub to remove the debris on the surface. He rinsed it with warm water when he took out of the soak. Before I started my part of the work I took photos of the pipe. It is a pretty looking pipe. I took close up photos of the bowl and the rim top to show the condition. It looked better but there was burn damage on the inner edge on the front and the back side of the bowl. I also took photos of both sides of the stem to give a sense of the condition of both sides at the button.I took a photo of the stamping on the left side of the shank and stem. It reads as noted above and is very clear and readable. The stamping on the shank is faint but readable. I took the stem off the shank and took photos of the pipe to give a sense of its beauty and proportions. I worked on the damage from burning on the inner edge of the bowl on the front and the back side. It was damaged but not too deeply burned. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to clean up and reshape the edge. It looked significantly better.I worked over the rim top and edges with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch sanding pads. I wiped the rim top down with a damp cloth after each pad to remove the sanding debris. It looked significantly better. I polished the rim top with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads and wiped down the bowl after each sanding pad. I rubbed the bowl and shank down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the surface of the bowl sides and shank with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for a little while and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The Balm did its magic and the grain stood out. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. Because it was quite clean I decided to touch up the Jeantet J stamp on the left side of the saddle. I filled in the stamp with Antique Gold Rub’n Buff. I did the same with the Hand Cut stamp on the right and France on the underside of the stem. I buffed off the excess material and the markings looked very good. The stem was in good condition and the light marks and chatter should polish out easily. I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad. I used Before & After Pipe Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine to further polish the stem. I gave it a final coat of Obsidian Oil and set it aside to dry. I put the parts of the Jeantet Bon-Cout Billiard back together and I lightly buffed the bowl and stem with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel and gave several coats of Carnauba Wax to seal and protect it. I polished it with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and then with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The briar really looked good with the wax highlighting the grain around the panels on the bowl. The thin shank and saddle stem gave additional beauty to the petite looking pipe. It was an interesting looking pipe. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 2 inches, Outer Diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches x 1 ¼ inches, Diameter of the chamber: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is is 53 grams/1.87 ounces. The photos below show the finished pipe. If you would like to add it to your collection I will be adding it to the French Pipe Makers section of the rebornpipes store. Send me a message or an email. Thanks for reading the blog. It was an interesting restoration.

Comet Resurrection!

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by Kenneth Lieblich

It’s Eastertide and so, only too fitting that a veritable pipe resurrection is next up. Friends and family often accuse me of taking on some crazy pipe projects. Well, if ever there was a quixotic pipe restoration, it is this one. I found this pipe at an antique shop in our local Fraser Valley and it was in sorry shape. Honestly, I probably should have left it – but then I wouldn’t have this crazy blog to post. This was a very challenging restoration – showing, once again, that any pipe can be restored. Whether any pipe should be restored is quite a different question. This is an uncommon pipe and it deserves respect. But this may be a pipe for your collection, rather than for your regular rotation. So, what on earth is this thing? Good news! It’s not from earth – it’s called the Comet. This pipe has no markings, but I already knew the general family this pipe was from. It is related to the Thoro-Kleen, made by the Greenwich House Corporation of New York. When Steve last restored one of these, he described it as reminding him of the Jetsons from Saturday morning cartoons! It certainly does have a futuristic, out-of-this-world look. To me, it is a good example of mid-twentieth-century design.

Our friends at Pipedia have a brief writeup on the Thoro-Kleen, which I copy here in its entirety:

The Greenwich House Thoro-Kleen was a metal pipe system sold with both a metal outer bowl with a briar insert and a full briar bowl. They are from the same family as the Roybrooke, Comet, and Original Gridiron pipes, and parts from all are believed to be interchangeable. The pipes were sold by the Greenwich House Corporation, located in 1947 at 939-M 8th Avenue, N.Y. 19, N.Y. The pipe set sold for $2.50 in 1947.

Similarly, Smoking Metal (a website dedicated to metal pipes) also has a short writeup:

This family of pipes have been seen as Knowles Air Lite (believed to be Canadian version), Roybrooke, Comet, Original Gridiron and the Greenwich House Thorokleen. Seemingly sold in sets that comprised a normal briar bowl as well as the metal outer with a briar insert. The body of the pipe can be hexagonal, square (Thoro Kleen only seen this shape) or circular in cross section. Regardless of variant all parts are interchangeable. The unmarked version tends to be regarded as the COMET, all the others being stamped with a name.

Some instances of this pipe appeared with an entirely briar bowl, and some came with a metal bowl and briar insert. Some sources indicate that the pipes came with both bowls, and you could take your pick, but the one I have has only the metal bowl and briar insert. Here’s a photo of an original:This pipe was a mess from every perspective. The vulcanite stem had some dents in it and was oxidized. The briar bowl insert was broken in half (literally) The metal components were dirty, dull, and scratched. The insides were filthy. There were nicks in the metal and – most significantly – the end of the shank had tiny cracks. This was going to be a tall order. The first thing I did was glue the two halves of the bowl insert back together. I liberally applied some wood glue and let it set overnight in a bar clamp.While the wood glue was drying, I moved on to the stem. I used isopropyl alcohol on a few cotton rounds and wiped down the stem to provide an initial cleaning of filth before moving on to the next steps. The primary cleaning came next. I disinfected the inside of the stem with pipe cleaners dipped in lemon-infused 99% isopropyl alcohol. I scrubbed thoroughly to make sure the interior was very clean.The goal of the next step is the removal (or minimization) of oxidation. Going to my sink, I used cream cleanser, cotton rounds, and a toothbrush, and scoured the stem to remove as much surface oxidation as possible. As the photos show, the result was a hideous mess – but better off the stem than on it.As the stem was now clean and dry, I set about fixing the marks and dents in the vulcanite. This was done by filling those divots with black cyanoacrylate adhesive, impregnated with carbon and rubber. I left this to cure and moved on.The penultimate step for the stem is sanding. First, with my set of needle files, I reduced the bulk of the cyanoacrylate repairs. I removed the excess adhesive as near to the surface as possible, without cutting into the vulcanite. Following that, I used all nine of the micromesh sanding pads (1,500 through 12,000 grit) to sand out flaws, even out the vulcanite, and provide gentle polishing of the finished surface. I also applied pipe-stem oil while using the last five micromesh pads. There was a wonderful, deep black shine to the stem when I was done.Since most of the pipe was made of aluminum, the cleaning procedures were different than usual. The inside of the shank was much more ‘cavernous’ than normal, too. I started with pipe cleaners and cotton swabs for the inside, but that only worked so well. I ended up using both acetone and isopropyl alcohol (separately) to clean the metal shank, especially the interior – and I made extensive use of some metal tube brushes because the gunk was really tough. The metal bowl was also cleaned with acetone and isopropyl alcohol, but it wasn’t so bad, as it hadn’t been in contact with the burning tobacco. I also soaked the smaller components overnight in acetone. It took a very long time, but I eventually got all of the metal clean. Back to the briar bowl insert. I scraped and sanded off the excess wood glue. I then reamed out the bowl – that is to say, removed all the cake inside the bowl. This accomplished a couple of things. First (and most obviously), it cleaned the bowl and provided a refurbished chamber for future smoking. Second, when the old cake was removed, I could inspect the interior walls of the bowl and determine if there was damage or not. I used a piece of sandpaper taped to a wooden dowel and got the thing clean.To tidy up the briar, I wiped down the outside, using a solution of a pH-neutral detergent and some distilled water, with cotton rounds. This did a good job of cleaning any latent dirt on the surface of the briar. The damage to the rim was significant. In order to lessen the burns and nicks on the rim, I ‘topped’ the pipe – that is to say, I gently and evenly sanded the rim on a piece of 400-grit sandpaper. This effectively minimized the damage, without altering the look of the pipe.

Given the state of the inside of the briar bowl insert, I used an epoxy adhesive that is extremely hard, resistant to high temperatures, and completely inert when cured. It worked superbly. I lined the affected area with the epoxy and let it cure for a full 24 hours. The next day, I roughened up the epoxy’s surface with my rotary tool for the next step. I thinly coated the inside of the bowl with a mixture of my wife’s homemade yogurt and activated charcoal. Once hardened, this provided a good, faintly rough surface for a new cake to build. I used all nine micromesh pads (1,500 through 12,000 grit) to sand the outside of the bowl insert and finish it off. This sanding minimizes flaws in the briar and provides a beautiful smoothness to the wood. This piece was never going to be easy on the eyes, but I did manage to make it look so much better.Back to the shank – the main body of the pipe. The end of the pipe had tiny cracks, as I mentioned, but was also slightly out of round. So, I gently adjusted it with pliers to close the gap in the cracks and return the circular shape. To repair the cracks, I decided to try something new: a different kind of epoxy, one specifically formulated for metal repairs and impregnated with steel. For the first step, I applied it on the inside of the shank and held everything tight with a hose clamp lined with duct tape. I used duct tape to protect the metal from scratches and in case the epoxy oozed out. This worked well and I let it cure overnight.I then moved on to applying the same epoxy to the outside of the shank. Same formulation, just different location. However, a problem then manifested itself. When the epoxy had cured, and I started sanding the metal, a couple of other micro-cracks also appeared. These were not visible before the sanding. Giant sigh. So, I had to repeat the metal epoxy procedure from the beginning to factor in these new, incredibly small marks. Eventually, I got it done. Once the epoxy had cured again, I sanded it again with my micromesh pads. This time everything looked good. The gleam on the metal was very satisfying. I polished the grooves in the bowl with some pipe cleaners that had been rubbed with red Tripoli compound, then cleaned it up. In preparation for final buffing, I filled those grooves with new, clean pipe cleaners so that compound didn’t get stuck in there. For the final step, I took the pipe to my bench polisher and carefully buffed it. The stem was done with a blue diamond compound. The metal bowl and shank were done, first, with red Tripoli and then with the blue diamond too. This procedure makes the pipe look its best – the metal really shines and the stem glows.

This Greenwich House Comet metal pipe looks fantastic again and is ready to be enjoyed by its next owner. I am pleased to announce that this pipe is for sale! If you are interested in acquiring it for your collection, please have a look in the ‘American’ section of the store here on Steve’s website. You can also email me directly at kenneth@knightsofthepipe.com. The approximate dimensions of the pipe are as follows: length 5⅓ in. (136 mm); height 1½ in. (38 mm); bowl diameter 1½ in. (38 mm); chamber diameter ¾ in. (19 mm). The weight of the pipe is 1⅝ oz. (48 g). I hope you enjoyed reading the story of this pipe’s restoration as much as I enjoyed restoring it. If you are interested in more of my work, please follow me here on Steve’s website or send me an email. Thank you very much for reading and, as always, I welcome and encourage your comments.

 

Restoring a Mauro Armellini Naturale Italy Acrylic Stem Rusticated Billiard

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by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the table is a great looking heavily rusticated saddle stem Billiard. It was one purchased on 01/20/2026 from a Facebook seller in Quaker Town, Pennsylvania, USA. The bowl and the shank are deeply rusticated with deep coral like finish that still shows the colours of the briar beneath. The top of the bowl continues the rustication and is also very tactile. There is a thin brass band on the shank end between the acrylic stem and the briar. It is a great looking pipe. It is stamped on a smooth panel on the left side of the shank and reads Mauro Armellini [over] Naturale. Next to the shank end and brass band it is stamped Italy. The finish was dirty and had a lot of grime and oils ground into the rustication. The brass band is very loose. The rim top and inner edge of the bowl is dirty with a lava flow on the edge and the top that was heavier toward the back of the bowl. There is a thick cake in the bowl. The variegate gold acrylic saddle stem is dirty and has light tooth marks and chatter on the surface on both sides ahead of the button. On the top of the stem is that Armellini white dot in a brass circle logo. Jeff took photos of the pipe before he started his clean up work. It showed a lot of promise. Jeff took photos of the rim top and stem to show the general condition of the pipe. The bowl is heavily caked and there was heavy lava in the rustication on the rim top and inner edge. I am hoping that once the lava is removed the edge will be okay. The stem looked good under the dirt and grime. It had some light tooth marks or chatter. It should cleanup very well. Jeff took photos of the bowl sides and heel to show the details of the heavy rustication that was around this bowl even though the grime on the finish hides it some. The pipe had obviously been well loved and enjoyed by the previous pipeman. He took photos of the left side of the shank to show the stamping. The stamping is clear and readable as noted above. The stem had a large Armellini white Dot surrounded by a brass circle on the topside. I decided to hunt down a bit of background on the brand before I started my clean up on the pipe. I turned to Pipephil’s site (http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-a7.html). It had a great summary listing and photos. I did a screen capture of the section and the side notes and have included them below.After Mauro Armellini passed (1936 – † 2004), his daughter Vilma Armellini answered for the brand’s destiny. Seconds: Mauro, Converti

For more detail on the brand than the notes above gave me about Armellini, I turned to Pipedia (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Armellini). I quote:

Mauro Armellini and Vilma Armellini. Courtesy of italianpipemakers.com

Mauro Armellini factory has born in 1960. When he was 24, my father decided to begin this business and after several difficult years, he was able to produce freehand pipes for foreign markets. Our factory has always been on the surf(?) because it has solid bases: quality and price.

I have always worked with my father and when I lost him, back in 2004, I had to learn to “walk on my own two legs”.

Someone called me “white fly” because I am probably the only women in Italy making pipes. I only work with briar which has been seasoned for at least one year; I think that after one year of seasoning the briar becomes old and dark. I prefer hand crafting, using only very few machines: in this way I am able to extol my predilection for freeforms.

Over the sale of pipes, I think that this work should transmit the genuineness and love for the pipe and for those who smoke it; The philosophy of the factory is the same that moves my work: quality and price

Mauro Armellini stands for the true meaning of self-made and self-taught pipe makers. He started his pipe making career back in the early 1960s, working at the famous Italian pipe factory “Rossi”. Years later, and when the Rossi factory shut its door, Armellini moved to Savinelli where he stood out immediately. He perfected the rustication technique and till today some of the most famous rusticated finishes, such as the “Roccia” and the “Corallo” exist only thanks to him. He worked for Savinelli for several years and till the day he realized that he decided to create his own workshop and make pipes under his own name. At those times, and in spite of the fact that the pipe market was huge, it was a big risk to start his own pipe brand, due to the costs involved and the difficulty of obtaining the right equipment and tools.

Once the name Armellini found its rightful place on a piece of briar, Armellini never looked back. Thanks to his friend and neighbor, Alberto Paronelli, he was able to attract foreign markets, such as the US one and that of other European countries. Armellini’s four daughters slowly and gradually became involved in the business by lending their dad a helping hand whenever possible. However, it was Wilma that became truly interested in the business and gradually became her father’s right hand, not only in the administrative aspect of the business, but also, and above all, the actual pipe making in all its various stages. Indeed, and many years later, Armellini retired from full-time pipe making, and it was Wilma who took over.

When Armellini passed away recently, it was natural, and yet very difficult, for Wilma to decide and continue the Armellini production, according to her father’s own standards and vision. What encouraged her is the fact that for over 20 years she had been making pipes, from A to Z, and so, she knew that the quality Armellini has always been known for could and would continue.

Today, in the small town Barasso, in northern Italy, Wilma and her 20-year-old son are running the workshop and producing all of the Armellini pipes. Matteo, Wilma’s son, is an enthusiastic young man with a love for pipes and pipe making that he could have only inherited from his grandfather. He’s determined to carry on and keep alive his grandfather’s pipe making tradition while creating new shapes and finishes that he is confident his grandfather would be proud of.

Today the name Armellini bears the dreams, the dedication, the passion, and the pipe making talent and expertise of three different generations, united by one objective: Offering the best pipes possible, out of the best material possible, at the lowest price possible. The legacy lives on …

Jeff did a great job cleaning off the debris and grime on this old pipe. He reamed it with a PipNet reamer and smoothed the walls of the bowl with a Savinelli Fitsall pipe knife. He scrubbed out the mortise and the airway in the shank and the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and pipe cleaners. He scrubbed the exterior of the bowl, rim and shank with a tooth brush and Murphy’s Oil Soap to the oils and tars on the bowl, rim and shank. He rinsed it under running water. He dried it off with a soft cloth. Once the grime was removed the finish underneath was in stellar condition. The rich patina of the rusticated briar looked great. He scrubbed the exterior of the stem with Soft Scrub. He rinsed off the deoxidizer with warm water and wiped the bowl and stem down with a light coat of olive oil to rehydrate both. The pipe really was quite stunning. I took photos of the pipe to show its condition before I started my work on it. I took a close up photo of the rim top and edges to show how well they had cleaned up. The rim top and sides look very good. I also took close up photos of the stem to show the light tooth chatter on the surface ahead of the button on both sides.I took a photo of the stamping on the left side of the shank. It is readable as noted above. I removed the stem and took a photo of the parts to show the proportions of the pipe. It is a beauty.I started my work by gluing the thin brass spacer on the end of the shank in the stepped down area. I used an all purpose glue to bind it to the shank. I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the briar with my fingertips and a shoebrush to work it into the heavily rusticated briar. The product works to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for 15 minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The photos show the bowl at this point in the restoration process.I started my work by gluing the thin brass spacer on the end of the shank in the stepped down area. I used an all purpose glue to bind it to the shank. I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the briar with my fingertips and a shoebrush to work it into the heavily rusticated briar. The product works to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for 15 minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The photos show the bowl at this point in the restoration process. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I sanded the tooth marks and chatter out with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper. It looked much better.I sanded the stem with 320-3500 grit 2×2-inch sanding pads to smooth out the tooth chatter. The pipe stem was looking very good.I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I gave it another coat of Obsidian Oil. As usual at this point in the restoration process I am excited to be on the homestretch. I look forward to the final look when it is put back together, polished and waxed. I put the Mauro Armellini Naturale Italy Rusticated Billiard with a variegated golden saddle stem back together. I polished the bowl and the stem with Blue Diamond to polish out the scratches in the briar and the acrylic. I gave the bowl multiple coats of Conservator’s Wax and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The pipe polished up pretty nicely. The rustication depths really pops with the wax and polish. The shiny acrylic golden saddle stem is a beautiful contrast to the various browns of the bowl. This Mauro Armellini Naturale Italy Rusticated Billiard was a great pipe to spruce up. It is a very comfortable pipe to hold in the hand. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 38 grams/1.34 ounces. This pipe will be going on the Italian Pipe Maker section of the rebornpipes store if you are interested in adding it to your collection. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I worked on it. This is an interesting estate to bring back to life.

Duncan Sandblast Drysmoker England Peterson 40 style with brass ferrule

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by Steve Laug

This Sandblast Peterson’s Style Bent Billiard with brass ferrule and a modified Peterson’s stem is a beauty. It was one of a lot purchased on 01/20/2026 from a Facebook seller in Quaker Town, Pennsylvania, USA. It is a Sand Blast Bent Billiard System Pipe with a smooth panel on the underside of the shank. The stem is a fancy vulcanite system style similar to a P-lip but with the airway exiting at the end of the button. The bowl is stained with a contrast of browns that give depth to the blast around the bowl and shank. It is stamped on the smooth panel on the underside of the shank and reads Duncan [over] Drysmoker. This second word under Duncan is faint in the middle but with Jeff’s help it is definitely a Drysmoker. Underneath it is stamped England [over] the shape number 40. It is definitely Duncan’s version of a Peterson’s System Standard pipe. The shape, the drilling, the ferrule and the stem style are similar. The button on the Peterson’s has the airway on the top while the Duncan has it on the stem end. The bowl had a thick cake and some tobacco debris on the walls. There was an overflow of lava and debris in the inwardly bevelled rusticated finish of the rim top. There was grime ground into the finish which left the bowl and shank dirty and dull. The vulcanite saddle P-lip style stem has light tooth marks and chatter on both sides of the stem ahead of the button. Jeff took photos of the pipe before he started his work on it.   Jeff took photos of the rim top and bowl to show the condition. It had a thick cake and there was darkening on the inner edge and lava in the sandblast rim top. The photos of the stem also show the light tooth chatter and marks on both sides. Jeff took photos of the sides of the bowl and the heel to show the condition and the debris in the low places of the sandblast. It also shows the oils that are ground into the finish. The brass ferrule looked good and was also oxidized. Jeff also took photos of the stamping on the underside of the shank and it was faint in the middle of the stamp but the top line and the bottom line were very clear. The shape number is also a clear stamp. With some help from Jeff the middle word is identified as Drysmoker. The pipe came from Jeff clean and the finish had life. He reamed it with a PipNet pipe reamer and got rid of the cake. He cleaned up the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife so that we could see the walls of the bowl and assess for damage. It was in good condition. He cleaned the internals of the shank and stem with cotton swabs, pipe cleaners and alcohol. He scrubbed the exterior with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush. He rinsed the pipe under warm water. He dried it off with a cloth and then let it air dry. He scrubbed the stem with Soft Scrub and soaked it in Briarville’s Stem Deoxidizer. He rinsed it with warm water and dried it off with a soft cloth. It came out looking very good. The finish on the bowl and the rim top cleaned up nicely. I took pictures of the pipe to show how it looked when I unpacked it. I took some photos of the rim top and stem to show the condition of them both when the pipe arrived. Overall it looked good. The rim top had some faded spots that would need to be restained to match the bowl sides but it was good. The stem looked much better and should polish up very well. I took a photo of the stamping on the left side of the shank. The top line and two bottom lines are readable. The middle line under Duncan is Drysmoker. I removed the stem from the shank and took a photo of the pipe to show the look of the pipe.The bowl was in great condition. I touched up the rim top with a Cherry Stain pen to match the surrounding colour of the briar. The match worked very well.I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the briar with my fingertips and into the deeper parts of the sandblast with a horsehair shoe brush to clean, enliven and protect it. I let the balm sit for a little while and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The photos show the bowl at this point in the restoration process. I sanded the stem with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch sanding pads to remove the remnants of oxidation and the scratches from sanding it. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with an Obsidian Oil impregnated cloth. It began to look better.I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with some Obsidian Oil. I finished polishing it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine and buffed it off an Obsidian Oil cloth. This beautiful mixed finish Duncan Drysmoker 40 Sandblast System Pipe, that is an obvious take on a Peterson’s System Pipe with a bent vulcanite stem has a great look and feel. I polished the stem and the bowl with Blue Diamond polish on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The pipe polished up pretty nicely. The rich combination of browns and blacks in the smooth, rusticated and plateau finish took on life with the buffing. The rich colour of the briar works well with the polished vulcanite stem. I like the sandblast grain and finished look of this Duncan Drysmoker 40 Sandblast System Pipe. Have a look at it with the photos below. The shape, finish and flow of the pipe and stem are very well done. The dimensions are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 2 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ wide, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 60 grams/2.12 ounces. This Duncan English Made Drysmoker System pipe is a real beauty. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked over another beautiful pipe. This one will be going on the rebornpipes store in the British Pipes Makers Section shortly if you would like to add it to your collection. Thanks for your time.

Freehand Israel Mixed Finish Freehand with a plateau on the rim top and shank end.

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by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the table is a great looking mixed finish Freehand and a Freehand saddle bit. It was one purchased on 01/20/2026 from a Facebook seller in Quaker Town, Pennsylvania, USA. The bowl and the shank is smooth, straight and flame grain with a rusticated patch on each side of the bowl midbowl and up each side of the shank. The top of the bowl and the end of the shank is plateau. It is a great looking pipe. It is stamped on the underside of the shank and reads Freehand and on at the shank/stem junction it reads Israel. The finish was dirty and had a lot of grime and grit ground into the rustication and the smooth portions. The rim top and inner edge of the bowl is dirty with a light lava flow on the edge and the top that was heavier toward the back of the bowl. There is a thick cake in the bowl. The stem is oxidized and has light tooth marks and chatter on the surface. Jeff took photos of the pipe before he started his clean up work. It showed a lot of promise. Jeff took photos of the rim top and stem to show the general condition of the pipe. The bowl is heavily caked with some lava on the top and in the plateau. It was heavier toward the back of the bowl. The stem was oxidized, calcified and had tooth marks on the top and underside. Jeff took photos of the bowl sides and heel to show the grain that was around this bowl. You can see the mix of grain in the finish in the photos below. Even so, it is a nice looking pipe. Jeff took photos of the stamping on the underside of the shank to capture it. It was clear and readable as noted above. I turned to both Pipephil and Pipedia to see if I could find any information on the stamping on the pipe. There was nothing stamped with both Freehand and Israel. I am pretty convinced that the pipe was made by the Shalom Pipe Company in Israel and the makers of Alpha pipes. The shape and the conformation of the pipe remind me of Alpha pipes. While I will never know the maker for certain I am fairly confident it as noted above. It is a neat looking pipe.

The pipe came from Jeff clean and the finish had life. He reamed it with a PipNet pipe reamer and got rid of the cake. He cleaned up the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife so that we could see the walls of the bowl and assess for damage. It was in good condition. He cleaned the internals of the shank and stem with cotton swabs, pipe cleaners and alcohol. He scrubbed the exterior with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush. He rinsed the pipe under warm water. He dried it off with a cloth and then let it air dry. He scrubbed the stem with Soft Scrub and soaked it in Briarville’s Stem Deoxidizer. He rinsed it with warm water and dried it off with a soft cloth. It came out looking very good. The finish on the bowl and the rim top cleaned up nicely. I took pictures of the pipe to show how it looked when I unpacked it. I took some photos of the rim top and stem to show the condition of them both when the pipe arrived. Overall it looked good. The stem looked much better and should polish up very well. I took a photo of the stamping on the left side of the shank (though I forgot to take a photo of the Israel stamp on the underside). It is readable and in great condition. I removed the stem from the shank and took a photo of the pipe to show the look of the pipe.I polished the bowl and the high points on the plateau with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the briar down after each pad with a damp cloth. The bowl is starting to look very good. I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the briar with my fingertips and into the plateau rim top and shank end with a horsehair shoe brush to clean, enliven and protect it. I let the balm sit for a little while and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The photos show the bowl at this point in the restoration process. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I sanded out the tooth chatter on the stem near the button on both sides. I also sanded the diameter of the tenon so that it would fit more deeply in the shank.I sanded the stem with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch sanding pads to remove the remnants of oxidation and the scratches from sanding it. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with an Obsidian Oil impregnated cloth. It began to look better.I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with some Obsidian Oil. I finished polishing it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine and buffed it off an Obsidian Oil cloth. This beautiful mixed finish Israeli Made Freehand, probably made by the Shalom  Pipe Company with a slightly bent vulcanite stem has a great look and feel. I polished the stem and the bowl with Blue Diamond polish on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The pipe polished up pretty nicely. The rich combination of browns and blacks in the smooth, rusticated and plateau finish took on life with the buffing. The rich colour of the briar works well with the polished vulcanite stem. I like the grain and finished look of this Israeli Made Freehand. Have a look at it with the photos below. The shape, finish and flow of the pipe and stem are very well done. The dimensions are Length: 6 inches, Height: 2 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¾ wide, Chamber diameter: 7/8 of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 62 grams/2.19 ounces. This Israeli Made Freehand is a real beauty. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked over another beautiful pipe. This one will be going on the rebornpipes store in the Pipes from Various Makers Section shortly if you would like to add it to your collection. Thanks for your time.

Cleaning Up a Handsome Gourd Calabash

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by Kenneth Lieblich

A friend of mine recently returned from a local gun show and, as it so happened, someone was selling a few pipes there too. So, my buddy found this very nice (and very dirty) gourd calabash and bought it for a good price. He asked if I could bring some ‘vim and vigour’ back to this old boy. No problem, I said. Happy to help. No markings at all on this pipe, but no matter. Let’s take a closer look at the condition of the pipe. The bowl is beautifully-shaped meerschaum. It has some minor signs of wear, but nothing serious. Similarly, the gourd is in lovely condition. No external wear to speak of and the cork gasket is in good shape. The gourd also has an acrylic shank extension in nice shape. However, the inside of the gourd was filthy beyond words! Finally, the vulcanite stem is also in good nick (as my English friends would say). It has some oxidation and some tooth marks, but nothing to worry about. First things first. For the life of me, I could not remove the meerschaum bowl from the gourd. It was like concrete. I didn’t want to cause any damage, so I stopped and grabbed my heat gun. This softened some of the interior goo and – finally – allowed me to unscrew it.The stem’s calcification was quite substantial. I used an old butter knife and gently scraped some of the thicker accretion off. Doing this now helps later in removing the oxidation. I used isopropyl alcohol on a few cotton rounds and wiped down the stem to provide an initial cleaning of filth before moving on to the next steps. The primary cleaning came next. I disinfected the inside of the stem with both pipe cleaners and cotton swabs dipped in lemon-infused 99% isopropyl alcohol. I scrubbed thoroughly to make sure the interior was very clean.The goal of the next step is the removal (or minimization) of oxidation. Going to my sink, I used cream cleanser, cotton rounds, and a toothbrush, and scoured the stem to remove as much surface oxidation as possible. As the photos show, the result was a hideous, ochre-coloured mess – but better off the stem than on it.Once the stem was reasonably clean, I soaked it overnight in some Briarville Stem Oxidation Remover. This solution works to draw oxidation in the stem to the surface of the vulcanite. This is a major aid and an important step in ensuring a clean stem. The following day, I drew out the stem from its bath and scrubbed the lingering fluid with a toothbrush.As the stem was now clean and dry, I set about fixing the marks and dents in the vulcanite. This was done by filling those divots with black cyanoacrylate adhesive, impregnated with carbon and rubber. I left this to cure and moved on.The penultimate step for the stem is sanding. First, with my set of needle files, I reduced the bulk of the cyanoacrylate repairs. I removed the excess adhesive as near to the surface as possible, without cutting into the vulcanite. Following that, I used all nine of the micromesh sanding pads (1,500 through 12,000 grit) to sand out flaws, even out the vulcanite, and provide gentle polishing of the finished surface. I also applied pipe-stem oil while using the last five micromesh pads. There was a wonderful, deep black shine to the stem when I was done. As the stem was (nearly) complete, I moved on to the bowl. The inner side of it was caked with old tobacco filth, so I grabbed a piece of machine steel and gently scraped the lava away. The metal’s edge is sharp enough to remove what I need, but not so sharp that it damages the meerschaum. I then had to ream it out – that is to say, remove all the cake inside the bowl. This accomplished a couple of things. First (and most obviously), it cleaned the bowl and provided a refurbished chamber for future smoking. Second, when the old cake was removed, I could inspect the interior walls of the bowl and determine if there was damage or not. Meerschaum is too fragile for a proper reamer, so I used 220-grit sandpaper on the end of a wooden dowel to clean out the bowl and it turned out very well. One of the frustrations of cleaning meerschaum is that once smoked, the stains never go away. However, I did what I could and it definitely improved. I sanded down the entire piece of meerschaum with my micromesh pads. I also rubbed some Clapham’s Beeswax into the meerschaum. Then I let it sit for 20 minutes, buffed it with a microfiber cloth and then repeated the beeswax process. Worked like a charm! Next, I had to do something about the incredible amount of filth inside the gourd. The photos don’t quite do it justice. This was no easy task, as the gourd is relatively thin and fragile. To use an oxymoronic term, I was aggressively delicate in my work. I used several items: pipe cleaners, a wire brush attached to my rotary tool, my pipe knife, and some dental and scraping tools. I had to use all of my experience and judgement here – I wanted to remove as much as possible, but not at the risk of any damage to the pipe. Fortunately, I managed to walk that fine line. I wiped down the outside of the gourd, using a solution of a pH-neutral detergent and some distilled water, with cotton rounds. I was pleased with the results.I sanded down the acrylic shank extension (but not the gourd) with only the finest of the micromesh pads. I also cleaned out the inside with cotton swabs and alcohol. It wasn’t very dirty. I then coated the gourd with LBE Before & After Restoration Balm and let it sit for 30 minutes. After that, I buffed it with the microfibre cloth. Finally, I applied some light lubricant to the cork gasket. Even though the gasket was in perfect shape, it’s a good idea to lubricate it in this way in order to maintain its elasticity. I set it aside to absorb and moved on.

Before I went off to the buffer, I gave the meer and the gourd another going over with Clapham’s beeswax rub. This really worked well. I only took the stem to the buffer, as meerschaum and gourds don’t tolerate those high speeds very well!

All done! This gourd calabash looks fantastic again and I am delighted with the results. I’m sure my friend will be too. Stupidly, I forgot to take measurements of the pipe before I returned it to him. However, I hope you enjoyed reading the story of this pipe’s restoration as much as I enjoyed restoring it. If you are interested in more of my work, please follow me here on Steve’s website or send me an email at kenneth@knightsofthepipe.com. Thank you very much for reading and, as always, I welcome and encourage your comments.

Restoring a Shamrock Billiard made in Ireland 105 Billiard with a Maltese Cross on the shank

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by Steve Laug

The next pipe was a mess and one that obviously had been “ridden hard and put away wet”. The finish and condition were filthy. It was definitely a stranger to any cleaning! This one is a smooth Billiard that has a rich coloured finish around the bowl sides and shank under the grit and grime of years. This pipe was purchased from an antique mall on 08/31/2024 in Hillsboro, Oregon, USA. The finish is dark and dull, so dirty that it obscures the grain in the finish. It was stamped on the left side of the shank and read SHAMROCK. It was stamped to the right of the shank and reads MADE IN IRELAND (in a circle) with the shape number 105 preceded by what looks like a Maltese Cross. Together they are next to the bowl. It was filthy when Jeff brought it to the table. There was a thick cake in the bowl and lava on the rim top and the inner edge of the bowl. There were nicks in the inner edge all the way around. The polished nickel band was stamped with a Shamrock [over] three faux hallmarks – a shamrock, an Irish Wolfhound and a tower with a door. The vulcanite stem was oxidized, calcified and had tooth marks and chatter on the top and underside ahead of the button. Jeff took photos of the pipe before his cleanup work.
Jeff took photos of the rim top and stem to show the general condition of the pipe. The bowl is heavily caked so it is hard to know the condition of the edges under the lava overflow. The stem was oxidized, calcified and had tooth marks on the top and underside. Jeff took photos of the bowl sides and heel to show the grain that was around this bowl. You can see the mix of grain and the small sandpits in the finish in the photos below. Even so, it is a nice looking pipe. He took a photo of the sides of the shank to show the stamping. The stamping is clear and readable as noted above. He also captured the stamping on the polished nickel band on the shank. It is also very clear. I always try to research the brand and the stamping on a pipe so I can better understand its background and history before I start my work on it. The stamping on this pipe have a rich history that I wanted to understand. I am including the link to the Pipedia’s article on Peterson pipes. It is a great read in terms of the history of the brand (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Peterson).

I turned to “The Peterson Pipe” by Mark Irwin and Gary Malmberg to get some background on the Peterson’s Shamrock Pipe. On page 312 it had the following information.

Shamrock (c1941-2009) Originally stamped SHAMROCK with no brand name, an inexpensive line first described in George Yale (New York) mail order booklet in 1941, imported by Rogers Import. The line was actively promoted beginning in ’45, aggressively promoted in US by Rogers from early ‘50s when they registered the Shamrock logo with US Patent Office, claiming propriety since ’38. Over the years offered with P-lip or fishtail mouthpiece, with or without nickel band, with or without Shamrock logo on the band, with or without S stamped in white or later in gold on mouthpiece. Appearing in 2008 as unstained smooth and rustic, fishtail mouthpiece with gold impressed P on the stem. COMS of MADE IN over IRELAND (C1945-1965), MADE IN IRELAND forming a circle (c1945-1965), “A PETERSON’S PRODUCT” over MADE IN IRELAND (c1945-1965), MADE IN THE over REPUBLIC over OF IRELAND9c1948-1998). Model is always difficult or impossible to date.

Judging from the description above, the pipe I am working on is stamped with the stamp noted in red above. Made in Ireland in a circle which narrows the date to between approximately 1945-1965. It is just stamped SHAMROCK with no brand name and no stamping on the stem.

From there I turned to page 302 in the above book to unpack the stamping on the nickel band on the shank. There was a listing on the nickel mounted markings such as those used on the band on the shank of this pipe. I quote:

Nickel-Mount Markings. Often called faux hallmarks or faux marks by Peterson collectors, this set of three little images of a shamrock, an Irish wolfhound and a round tower appear within rectangular shapes as decorations on nickel mountings. Very early nickel mounts (1891-c. 1920) had no such decorations, only the same stamps used on sterling but without the hallmarks. As a stamp, the set of decorations began to appear at the beginning of the Irish Free State era, sometimes alone but often under K&P and over block lettered PETERSON over DUBLIN, although the  three emblems appeared on K&P’s Irish Carving Shamrocks pipes since 1896. The stamp was used until about 1963, when hand soldered nickel bands and ferrules were replaced by pressed ferrules and premade bands…The shamrock is the emblem of Ireland; the Irish wolfhound has long been used for both hunting and protection, and is an emblem of strength; the round tower a symbol of Ireland’s early religious power. These decorations were stamped at the factory on non-sterling mounts only, and the assay office has nothing to do with them…

I have also included the following photo of the stamping on the nickel band below. It is as described above.That still not cover the Maltese Cross on the right side of the shank ahead of the shape number 105. I have seen these before but I wanted to document what I had found on Peterson’s Pipe Notes blog. I have included that below (https://petersonpipenotes.org/276-kps-pipes-for-the-illuminati-na-heireann/). I quote:

Two of the foremost researchers among the P.G. (Peterson Geeks) Irregulars are Lance Dahl and Scott Forrest, who independent of one another came up with compelling evidence regarding an unknown stamp on a number of pipes in their collections. The stamp looks like a Maltese cross and appears either singly or doubled on pipes from the Patent era through the Éire and Early Republic. Because pipemen can sometimes be quite dogmatic about what they read in a forum or imagine the case to be (“don’t confuse me with the facts, my minds made up”), I should let everyone know that Scott’s background is in historical research and Lance worked in government intelligence before his retirement, giving them that “Thinking Man” spirit we routinely find in our fellow CPGs…

… SCOTT: It’s crazy to speculate on the such scanty information, but since that’s what pipe smokers do almost every day regarding the origin of their pipes, here’s my take. This wasn’t an auxiliary of the Irish republicans. The Maltese cross is always thought of first as a symbol of protection, although to be sure numerous religio-political military organizations attached themselves to its use (like the Order of St. John, but there’s dozens of them). I say that because of what we know Charles Peterson’s own political views. But his cousin Conrad wasn’t adverse to using violence to bring about political change and neither was his own wife, right? So who knows? But it’s interesting that the Maltese cross pops up in these “Peace” advertisements in the 1910s, isn’t it?

… LANCE: I think I’d have to agree with Scott’s theory, based on the text at St. Patrick’s. The motives and purpose of the group seem outside the normal purview of the Irish republicans. While the book is about anti-Papal groups, but the two paragraphs on this group don’t say they were anti-Catholic per se so much as suggest they should be considered anti-Catholic because they were motivated by some kind of tolerance or pacificism like we find in the Mennonites of Ukraine, the Moravians, Quakers, Molokons or whoever. But the use of the Maltese crosses (three), the all-seeing Eye and the shamrock is interesting, isn’t it? Obviously the “watching” thing is there, the idea of enlightenment or secret understanding. Then there’s the symbol of Ireland, which is also a symbol of the Trinity used in the St. Patrick legend. The last line of the text from the seminary reads Hic coetus doctrinam suam non a Patriciis, sed a Sanctis Celticis habere videtur, something like “the society takes its spiritual doctrine not from Patrick but the Celtic saints before him.” So I don’t know, at least not until something more turns up.

The blog also includes a lot more information on the Maltese Cross or Crosses on Peterson’s Pipes. Give it a read as it very interesting. Now it was time to work on the pipe.

I was utterly surprised when I took this pipe out of the box and compared it to the before photos. Jeff had done a great job cleaning up the pipe as usual. He reamed the pipe with a PipNet reamer and cut back the cake back to the bare briar. He cleaned up the walls with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. Surprisingly the walls looked unscathed from the heavy cake. He scrubbed the interior of the bowl and shank with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs, shank brushes and alcohol to remove the tars and oils. He scrubbed the exterior of the pipe with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush to remove the grime from the finish. He worked on the rim top lava and darkening with the soap and tooth brush. He scrubbed the inside of the stem with alcohol and pipe cleaners. He scrubbed the exterior of the stem with Soft Scrub and then soaked it in Briarville’s Deoxidizer. He washed it off with warm water to remove the Deoxidizer. The pipe looked far better when it arrived. The cleaned up rim top revealed very damaged inner edge and the top. There were nicks in the surface of the rim and the edges. I took some close up photos of the rim top and the stem to show the condition of both. You can see the deep tooth marks and damage to the button edges on both sides.I took photos of the stamping on the sides of the shank. It is faint but still readable. It reads as noted above. I took a photo of the stamping on the shank. It is clear and readable. I removed the stem and took a photo of the pipe to have a look at the parts and overall look. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to clean up the inside edge of the bowl and smooth out the damage on the rim top. I gave it a slight bevel to minimize the damage.I sanded the bowl and rim with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch sanding pads. I wiped the bowl down with a damp cloth after each pad to remove the sanding debris. It began to take on a shine by the final pad. I polished the briar with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped the bowl down with a damp cloth after each sanding pad. The bowl developed a rich shine. I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the briar with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for 15 minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The photos show the bowl at this point in the restoration process. I set the bowl aside and turned to the stem. I “painted” the stem surface with the flame of a lighter to lift the tooth marks. I was able to lift some of them. I filled in the remaining marks in the surface with extra strength, rubberized CA glue. I set it aside to cure. I sanded the marks smooth with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper. I sanded the stem with 320-3500 grit sanding pads to further blend the repairs into the stem. I wiped the stem down after each pad with an Obsidian Oil cloth. It began to look much better.I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I am excited to finish this Older Made in Ireland Shamrock 105 Maltese Cross Billiard. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I hand buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with beautiful mixed grain all around it, looks great with the new black vulcanite stem. This smooth Classic Shamrock 105 Maltese Cross Billiard is great looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 42 grams/1.48 ounces. It turned out to be a beautiful pipe. I will be putting on the rebornpipes store in the Irish Pipe Makers Section. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me. Any questions or observations are always welcome.

A Lovely Ropp Cherrywood Carre France 841 Octagonal Panel Poker Sitter

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by Steve Laug

This rusticated Bent Cherrywood with a fancy saddle stem and square bit is quite lovely and lightly smoked. It was one of a lot purchased on 01/20/2026 from a Facebook seller in Quaker Town, Pennsylvania, USA. It is a smooth Bent Cherrywood with octagonal panels on the of the bowl. The saddle stem is vulcanite and has the Ropp logo on the left side of the stem. The bowl is four smooth panels on the front, back and two sides. The remaining panels of the octagon and the shank still have the Cherry back. It is stamped on the smooth panel on the underside of the bowl and reads Ropp in an oval [over] Carre [over] France [over] the shape number 841. The bowl had a thick cake on the lower half of the bowl while the top half was clean. The rim top and the bevelled inner edge were quite clean. There was grime ground into the finish which left the bowl and shank dirty and dull. The vulcanite saddle stem has light tooth marks and chatter on both sides of the stem ahead of the button. Jeff took photos of the pipe before he started his work on it.   Jeff took photos of the rim edges and top to show the condition of the bowl and rim. It was surprising how clean it was. He took photos of the stem surface as well to show the condition as noted above.Jeff took photos of the bowl sides, heel and front of the bowl and the shank to give a sense of the condition of the bark around the sides of the pipe. It is a unique one. He took a photo of the stamping on the heel of the bowl and the inset Ropp oval logo on the left side of the stem. Both are readable and clear as noted above. I turned to Pipephil (http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-ropp.html) to get a bit more background on the brand before I did my work on the pipe. No matter how many I have worked on I seem to forget the history of the cherrywood pipes. I quote:

Brand created by Eugène-Léon Ropp (1830 – 1907) and continued throughout 3 generations. “GBA Synergie” run by Bernard Amiel (†2008) bought back Ropp in 1988 and owned it until 1991. The company was taken over by Cuty-Fort Entreprises (Chacom, Vuillard, Jean Lacroix…) in 1994.

I have also included a screen capture of a Cherry wood pipe. The one I am working on is significantly different that this but it has he bark left on the pipe as noted below. Below the photo is the side bar information. The stamp on the stem on this one is different it is a silver oval with the name ROPP stamped in it.Cherry wood pipe with bark. Ropp stamped a cursive R on the stems of some of their export pipes.

I turned to Pipedia for a bit more detailed history of the brand (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Ropp). I quote below.

Eugène-Léon Ropp (1830 – 1907) had acquired a patent for a cherrywood pipe (wild cherry, lat.: Prunus avium) in 1869. In 1870 he established a workshop to manufacture such pipes in Büssingen (Bussang, Vosges mountains). Around 1893 the business moved into the former mill of Sicard (part of the community of Baume-les-Dames – Département Doubs, Upper Burgundy – from 1895 on).

The pipes were a big success in the export as well. Shortly before 1914 Ropp designated A. Frankau & Co. (BBB) in to be the exclusive distributor in the UK and it’s colonies.

Probably in 1917 a workshop in Saint-Claude in the Rue du Plan du Moulin 8 was acquired to start the fabrication of briar pipes. In 1923 a small building in the environment of Saint-Claude, serving as a workshop for polishing, was added.

Even though cherrywood pipes were the mainstay of Ropp until the company finally closed down in September 1991. The company was taken over by Cuty-Fort Entreprises (Chacom, Jeantet, Vuillard, Jean Lacroix…) in 1994.

Reminded about the background on the Ropp Family and their Cherrywood pipe it was now time to turn to the pipe itself and do my part of the work.

As usual Jeff had done a thorough cleanup on the pipe. He reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer and followed up with a Savinelli Fitsall pipe knife to remove the cake. He scrubbed out the mortise and the airway in the shank and the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs, shank brushes and pipe cleaners. He scrubbed the exterior of the bowl, rim, shank and stem with a tooth brush and Murphy’s Oil Soap to remove the oils and tars on the rim and the grime on the finish of the bowl. He rinsed it under running water. He dried it off with a soft cloth. He scrubbed the exterior of the stem with Soft Scrub and a cotton pad. Once finished he soaked the stem in Briarville’s Pipe Stem Deoxidizer and rinsed it off with warm water and cleaned out the airway in the stem with alcohol. Other than the damaged rim top the pipe looked good. I took a photo of the rim top and stem to show the condition. The rim top and the inner edge of the bowl had some damage and darkening on the front and the back of the bowl. The vulcanite saddle stem had light tooth chatter and marks on both sides ahead of the button.The stamping on the heel of the bowl is clear and readable as noted above. I removed the stem from the shank and took a photo of the pipe to give a sense of the whole. It is a nice looking octagonal panel with a slight bend in great condition.I polished the bark and clean cherrywood with micromesh sanding pads, dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads and wiping it down with a damp cloth after each sanding pad. I rubbed the bowl and shank down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the surface of the bowl sides and shank both (smooth and bark covered) with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for about 10 minutes then buffed it with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The Balm did its magic and the grain stood out. I polished the vulcanite stem with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad. I used Before & After Pipe Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine to further polish the stem. The photo below shows the polished stem. This nice Cherrywood finished ROPP Carre France 841 Octagonal Panel with a black vulcanite saddle stem is a great looking pipe. The rugged bark finish on four of the octagonal sides and the smooth panels on the other four highlight the grain on the cherrywood bowl front, back and sides. The black saddle stem works really well with the pipe as a whole. The wood is clean and really came alive. The rich medium brown of the wood gave the grain a sense of depth with the polishing and waxing. The grain really popped. I put the stem back on the bowl and carefully buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel using a light touch on the briar. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the buffing wheel. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed the pipe with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished ROPP Carre 841 Cherrywood is a beauty and feels great in the hand and looks very good. Give the finished pipe a look in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 2 ¼ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 2.05 ounces/58 grams. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I worked on it. There are many more to come!

Restoring a La Strada Centurion 160 Italy Bent Cherrywood

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by Steve Laug

This rusticated Bent Cherrywood with an acrylic shank extension and a military bit. It was one of a lot purchased on 01/20/2026 from a Facebook seller in Quaker Town, Pennsylvania, USA. It is a rusticated Bent Cherrywood with a smooth panel on the underside of the shank and around the shank end. The stem is an acrylic black military push stem. The bowl is stained with a contrast of browns that give depth to the rustication around the bowl and shank. It is stamped on the smooth panel on the underside of the shank and reads La Strada [over] Centurion [followed by] the shape number 160 and Italy. The bowl had a thick cake and some tobacco debris on the walls. There was an overflow of lava and debris in the inwardly bevelled rusticated finish of the rim top. There was grime ground into the finish which left the bowl and shank dirty and dull. The acrylic, black military stem has light tooth marks and chatter on both sides of the stem ahead of the button. Jeff took photos of the pipe before he started his work on it. He took photos of the bowl and rim top to show what they looked like before his clean up. You can see the lava coat on the rim top and the cake in the bowl. The inner edge looks to be okay under the thick cake on the walls. He took photos of the stem to show the condition of both sides. The photos of the sides and heel of the bowl show the uniquely stained rugged rustication around the bowl and shank. The mixture of brown stains adds depth to the finish on the pipe. Even under the grime it is a real beauty. The stamping on this one was on the underside of the shank and is shown in the photos below. There was also a shape number 160 is stamped perpendicular to the stem/shank junction. The stamping on both is clear and readable as noted above. The stem also has the La Strada logo stamped on the top side. The La Strada was a brand about which I remembered very little. I had some vague memory of seeing them sold through Tinderbox but was not sure about that memory. I did a bit of research and found that indeed they had been sold there. They were Italian Made. Here is a page from a Tinderbox catalogue showing the brand. The catalog describes the pipe as “a gracefully conservative style that has today’s favoured matte finish, enhance by the unexpected touch of random routing.” The price was a princely $8.95-$10.00.The pipe I am working on is a Bent Cherrywood with a shank extension and a military bit stem. The shape 160 was not shown in the above photos.

I turned to Pipephil to see I could learn anything more on the brand and the Centurion. There was nothing on the line but it confirmed the tie to Tinder Box (http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-l1.html). I did a screen capture of the section and have included the sidebar information below the picture.Export brand seen in Tinder Box catalogue

Given that information I was read to work on the pipe.

Jeff had thoroughly cleaned up the pipe. He reamed the pipe with a PipNet Pipe Reamer and cleaned up the remnants with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the bowl with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap with a tooth brush. He rinsed it under running warm water to remove the soap and grime. He cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs, shank brushes and pipe cleaners. He scrubbed the exterior of the stem with Soft Scrub to remove the grime and calcification. He soaked the stem in Before & After Deoxidizer and rinsed it off with warm water. The pipe looked very good when it arrived here in Vancouver. I took close up photos of the bowl, rim and the stem. The rusticated rim top cleaned up very well. The stem looks clean but still has light tooth marks and some chatter as noted above.I took a photo of the stamping on the underside of the shank. It is clear and readable as noted above. I removed the stem from the shank and took a photo to give a sense of the proportions of the pipe. The briar is quite beautiful and the stains really make the grain and the sandblast stand out.The pipe was in great condition after the clean up. I began my work by rubbing the bowl down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the briar with my finger tips and a horsehair shoe brush to get into the nooks and crannies of the rustication. I let it sit for 10 minutes and the Balm did its magic. It enlivens, cleans and preserves the briar. It certainly brought this bowl back to life. I buffed it off with a clean cloth and took the following photos. I set the bowl aside and turned to the stem. I touched up the La Strada logo on the stem top with white acrylic fingernail polish. Once it hardened I scraped of the excess and polished it with a 1500 grit micromesh sanding pad. It looked very good.I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with a damp cloth after each sanding pad. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I gave it a coat of Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil. I set it aside to dry. This rusticated La Strada Centurion 160 Bent Cherrywood with an acrylic shank extension and military bit is a great looking pipe with a beautiful combination of finishes. The mix of stains once cleaned up really highlights the grain and the depth of the blast. The polished finish is stunning. I put the stem back on the bowl and carefully buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the buffing wheel and followed that by buffing the entire pipe with a clean buffing pad. I hand buffed the pipe with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished La Strada Centurion 160 Bent Cherrywood fits nicely in the hand and feels great. Give the finished pipe a look in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 6 inches, Height: 2 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ½ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 48 grams /1.69 ounces. I will be adding the pipe to the Italian Pipe Makers Section of the rebornpipes store. If you are interested in purchasing this pipe send me a message or an email. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I worked on it.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

Breathing Life into a Stanwell Made in Denmark Vario 85 Bent Billiard

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by Steve Laug

This sandblast Bent Billiard with smooth patches on the front of the bowl with a black acrylic stem was purchased on 01/20/2026 from a Facebook seller in Quaker Town, Pennsylvania, USA. It is a sandblast Bent Billiard with a smooth patch on the front of the bowl and around the shank end.  The stem is an acrylic black taper stem. The bowl is stained with a contrast of blacks and browns that give depth to the sandblast around the bowl and shank. It is stamped on the underside of the shank and reads Stanwell [over] Made in Denmark [over] Vario. On the right side of the shank it is stamped with the shape number 85. The bowl had a thick cake and some tobacco debris on the walls. There was an overflow of lava and debris in the sandblast finish of the rim top. There was grime ground into the finish which left the look quite dull. The acrylic, black taper stem has light tooth marks and chatter on both sides of the stem ahead of the button. Jeff took photos of the pipe before he started his work on it.   He took photos of the bowl and rim top to show what they looked like before his clean up. You can see the lava coat on the rim top and the cake in the bowl. The inner edge looks to be okay under the thick cake on the walls. He took photos of the stem to show the condition of both sides. The photos of the sides and heel of the bowl show the uniquely stained grain and sandblast portions around the bowl and shank. The mixture of brown stains adds depth to the finish on the pipe. Even under the grime it is a real beauty.The stamping on this one was on the underside of the shank and is shown in the photos below. There was also a shape number 85 on the right side of the shank that is shown below. The stamping on both is clear and readable as noted above.

Before I started my work on the pipe I wanted to see if I could find any information that would help me get a sense of the line. I turned to Pipephil to see if there was any listing on the Vario Line (http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-stanwell.html). There was nothing listed.

I then turned to Pipedia (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Stanwell) for more information. The article is great and gives a lot of history on the brand. But there is nothing specific on the Varios. I did a quick Google search and came up with a link for Smokingpipes.com that had a description for a Vario (https://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/estate/denmark/moreinfo.cfm?product_id=345545). I have included that description below:

Stanwell’s Vario finish is characterized by a dark-stained sandblast interspersed with smooth, lighter-stained briar. The dual tone and mix of textures are found here on this classic 85 Bent Billiard — a rendition that caters to lovers of pipe chart standards and offers versatile appeal in its convenient size and light weight.

That pretty well captured the description of the pipe I have in my hands.

There was also a link to a shape article on Pipedia written by Bas Stevens that I originally published on rebornpipes. I looked up the 85 shape number to see who had designed that shape (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Stanwell_Shape_Numbers_and_Designers). I quote that below

  1. Two versions of this shape number:
  2. a) Freehand; tall bent egg with a stepped stem, by Sixten Ivarsson (late 1950s).
  3. b) Bent Billiard saddle mouthpiece. (discontinued – 2006 and replaced with shape 246).

The pipe I am working on is a Bent Billiard but it has a taper stem. The shape 85 could also have been a Sixten Ivarrson design Tall Bent Egg with a stepped stem. I am fairly confident that the pipe I am working on is not an egg but rather a Bent Billiard – 85b above. Now it was time to work on the pipe.

Jeff had thoroughly cleaned up the pipe. He reamed the pipe with a PipNet Pipe Reamer and cleaned up the remnants with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the bowl with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap with a tooth brush. He rinsed it under running warm water to remove the soap and grime. He cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs, shank brushes and pipe cleaners. He scrubbed the exterior of the stem with Soft Scrub to remove the grime and calcification. He soaked the stem in Before & After Deoxidizer and rinsed it off with warm water. The pipe looked very good when it arrived here in Vancouver. I took close up photos of the bowl, rim and the stem. The rim top cleaned up very well. There is some debris in the sandblast of the rim top. The stem looks clean but still has light tooth marks and some chatter as noted above.I took photo of the stamping on the undersides of the shank. It is clear and readable as noted above. I removed the stem from the shank and took a photo to give a sense of the proportions of the pipe. The briar is quite beautiful and the stains really make the grain and the sandblast stand out.I started my work on the pipe by addressing the debris in the sandblast on the rim top and the inner edges. I used a brass bristle wire brush to clean up the top and the edges. It looked much better. I touched up the stain on the rim top to match the bowl sides with a Walnut stain pen. It looked much better.I rubbed the bowl down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the briar with my finger tips and a horsehair shoe brush to get into the nooks and crannies of the sandblast. I let it sit for 10 minutes and the Balm did its magic. It enlivens, cleans and preserves the briar. It certainly brought this bowl back to life. I buffed it off with a clean cloth and took the following photos. I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with a damp cloth after each sanding pad. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I gave it a coat of Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil. I set it aside to dry. This Stanwell Vario 85 Bent Billiard and an acrylic taper stem is a great looking pipe with a beautiful combination of finishes. The mix of stains once cleaned up really highlights the grain and the depth of the blast. The polished finish is stunning. I put the stem back on the bowl and carefully buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the buffing wheel and followed that by buffing the entire pipe with a clean buffing pad. I hand buffed the pipe with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished Stanwell Vario 85 Bent Billiard fits nicely in the hand and feels great. Give the finished pipe a look in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 2 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 44 grams /1.55 ounces. I will be adding the pipe to the Danish Pipe Makers Section of the rebornpipes store. If you are interested in purchasing this pipe send me a message or an email. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I worked on it.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.