Tag Archives: Jeantet Pipes

New Life for a Jeantet Neuilly ¾ Bent Apple


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the work table is a pipe I picked up recently at St. Vincent de Paul thrift shop. I caught the bus to meet my daughter for lunch and while I waited for her to get off work I walked over to the nearby shop. I went through the display cupboards and found an interesting looking pipe. It was a ¾ bent pipe with a rounded edge rectangular shank pipe. It was priced pretty high for a used pipe but I struck a deal with the clerk and got it for a reasonable price. I took the pipe over to the coffee shop where my daughter works and took some photos. I took the pipe home and finally got around to working on it today. I took some photos of the pipe before I started to clean it up. It is stamped on the underside of the shank Jeantet over Neuilly and next to the shank/stem junction it is stamped France. It is also stamped on the right side of the shank with the numbers 81-3 It is a three-quarter bent apple-shaped pipe with a natural finish. The finish was dirty and stained from the grime of long handling without cleaning. The rim top had an overflow of lava from the thick cake in the bowl. It was dirty and hard to tell if the finish was nicked or damaged under the grime. The outer edge of the bowl is rounded over to the sides of the bowl. The stem was black vulcanite and had tooth chatter and some calcification on the top and underside near the button. It was stamped JEANTET on the top of the saddle stem. I took a closeup photo of the rim top to show the lava overflow from the thick cake in the bowl. The rounded outer edge of the rim carried down into the bowl. The inner and outer edges of the bowl look very good underneath the lava overflow. There is a thick cake in the bowl. The stem was in good condition. There was some tooth chatter and scratches on the top and underside near the button. There was some light oxidation on the top and underside of the stem. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet Pipe reamer to remove the majority of the cake in the bowl. I cleaned up the remnants of cake with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. To finish the cleanup of the bowl I wrapped 220 grit sandpaper around a piece of dowel and sanded the walls of the bowl. I used a dental spatula to scrape the buildup of tars on oils on the walls of the mortise. I scrubbed the mortise and the airway in the shank with alcohol, cotton swabs and pipe cleaners. I took some photos of the pipe to show the condition at this point in the process.Before I could clean out the airway in the stem I needed to remove the caked and dirty stinger apparatus in the tenon. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to twist the stinger out of the tenon. I took a chance that it was threaded and it was not long before I had it free of the tenon.I cleaned up the aluminum tenon with 000 steel wool. I cleaned out the inside of the stinger and the airway in the stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol.I scrubbed the top of the rim and the exterior of the bowl with isopropyl alcohol and cotton pads to remove the buildup of lava and grime on the bowl. I rubbed down the briar with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the smooth surface of the briar with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect it. I let the balm sit for a little while and then buffed the bowl with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The following photos show the bowl at this point in the restoration process. The grain is really starting to stand out. I polished the briar bowl and shank with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12000 grit pads. I wiped the rim off after each sanding pad to remove the dust. The pipe really shone once it was polished. I took a photo of the stamping on the underside of the shank. It read Jeantet over Neuilly. Along the shank/stem junction it was stamped France. On the right side of the shank it read 81-3.I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to sand out the tooth chatter and marks on both sides of the stem just ahead of the button. They were not deep so it did not take too much to remove them.The Jeantet stamp on the top of the stem is quite worn. There is not enough to recolour with white paint but enough that in the right light it is readable. I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down after each pad with Obsidian Oil to remove the sanding dust on the vulcanite. I finished polishing it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. When I finished with that I wiped it down with a final coat of Obsidian Oil and set it aside to dry. I polished stem and bowl with Blue Diamond to polish out the remaining small scratches. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The pipe polished up pretty nicely. The natural oil finish works well when polished to really highlight the variety of grains around the bowl and shank. It has birdseye on the sides of the bowl and cross grain on the front (toward the right) and back of the bowl and on the shank both top and bottom. The polished black vulcanite stem works together with the beautiful grain in the briar to give the pipe a rich look. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. The pipe is ready for a new home. The shape, finish and flow of the pipe and stem are very well done. The dimensions are Length: 5 1/2 inches, Height: 2 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 1/4 inches, Chamber diameter: 3/4 inches. I will be listing this one on the rebornpipes store shortly. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked over this beautiful little Jeantet Neuilly. 

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This is a pipe like none I have ever seen – a Jeantet Hawaii Bent Billiard


Blog by Steve Laug

My brother Jeff was intrigued by this pipe when he saw it. I don’t remember if it was on an auction on Facebook or another site or if he picked it up in his travels. The thing is when he showed it to me I said, “Why?”. I had never seen a pipe like this one either in terms of the colour of the bowl or the stem. It was definitely unlike anything we had ever worked on and it was New Old Stock (NOS) and unsmoked. To be honest with you all it is not a pipe that I would ever choose for myself though I cannot tell you why, exactly. I just do not like it. It is very different. As is often the case with me these days, I actually forgot about it and worked on the pipes in my restoration box and the repairs I have on the go instead. They were more of what I was used to in terms of look, finish and feel both of the bowl and the stem.

Two of my daughters were in the US for my father’s birthday at the end of June and they stayed with Jeff and his wife. Jeff talked them into bringing a few pipes back with them for me. This pipe was one of them. When they got home from their trip they brought me the pipes and the rack that Jeff had sent home. This particular pipe was still in its original box – kind of a zebra striped pattern on the lid and a sticker on the top that I interpret as a date code – August 10, 1989. The end of the box bore the name of the line – Jeantet Artisan U. 410, Made in France. Normally I don’t do a blog on a NOS pipe, I just post it on the rebornpipes store. But this one was just too different to pass up the opportunity of doing a write up on it and showing it to you all. I am curious to hear if any of you have seen one of these or smoked one. They got home about 11pm on Monday night but when I saw the box and the Jeantet name on it I had to open it and see if it was the pipe Jeff had shown me earlier. Here is what I saw in the box.The pipe was still in its plastic bag in the bottom of the box. Underneath it was a soft cloth pipe sock with a rounded bottom on the sock that read Jeantet over St. Claude, France. I took the pipe out of the bag, the pipe sock out of the box and took photos of the pipe on the sock. The next photo not only shows the stamping on the left side of the shank but give a good sense of the finish on the pipe. Underneath the blue and green there are swirls that give the pipe a look of texture even though it is smooth to touch. The stamping on the shank reads Jeantet over Hawaii. The J in an oval stamped on the left side of the stem is also clear.I took a series of photos with the stem removed from the shank to give an idea of the look of the pipe. The stem is an unblemished robin egg blue acrylic. It is actually quite a beautiful colour and sets off the rich ocean like colours of the finish on the bowl. You will notice the variations in colour of the bowl. The left side is a swirl of algae like green on the surface of the ocean blue beneath. The greens curve around to the front of the bowl and on the left side of the shank. They disappear into the rich blues of the underside of the bowl and shank. The right side is the rich ocean blue with patches of the green scattered throughout. As you turn the bowl it is like the blues and greens move like undulating waves. It is aptly stamped Hawaii. The complete pipe is actually quite a beautiful piece. Though it is not my style it is still quite stunning. The way the finish was applied gives it a sense of depth and movement that is hard to capture fully with photos. The Delrin tenon in the acrylic stem is a snug fit in the shank. The polished briar shank end it quite nice in adding a contrast. The bowl is unsmoked and clean. The pipe is ready for the pipeman who wants to add it to his or her collection to break in with their favourite tobacco. It is about a Dunhill group 4 sized pipe. The dimensions of the pipe are – Length: 6 inches, Height: 2 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 1/8 inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ inch. If you are interested in adding it to your collection it will soon be placed on the rebornpipes store. You can contact me by email at slaug@uniserve.com. Thanks for looking.

Another nice find at the ‘Hole in the Wall’ – Jeantet Fleuron 70-7


Blog by Dal Stanton

The Jeantet Fleuron before me was mentioned when I posted the restoration of a beautiful BBB Banker Bent Volcano.  I found both pipes last April, during a visit to ‘The Hole in the Wall’ antique store near the Zhenski Pazar (Women’s Market) in downtown Sofia, Bulgaria.  In order to achieve a better bargain for the BBB Banker I grabbed the Jeantet out of the basket as a good candidate for a bundled deal, which helped me negotiate 30 Bulgarian Leva for the pair – not a bad deal!  When I arrived home from the Hole in the Wall I took these pictures:dal1 dal2 dal3 dal4 dal5 dal6 dal7 dal8The bent egg shape is in pretty good condition with an attractive elongated bowl that fits well in the hand.  The left side of the shank is marked with Jeantet (pronounced, ‘Zhawn-Te’) over Fleuron and on the right what I assume is the shape number 70-7.  The stem has the nice Jeantet J stamp.  Looking at Pipedia to do a little research on this name led me to Sainte Claude, France, considered to be the birthplace of the serious production of briar pipes and scores of French made pipe names claim Saint Claude as home. My curiosity piqued, I wanted to know why St. Claude, France?  Was the briar in good supply there?  I looked to the history of the city itself to see what I could find.  I unearthed an archived New York Times article written March 20, 1983, in the ‘Shoppers World’ travel section entitled, THE PIPE CAPITAL OF FRANCE – very interesting and worth reading.  I found the answer to the question, ‘Why Saint Claude and pipes?’ with this article I found posted on Fumerchic.com with these informative excerpts:

In the 15th Century, Saint-Claude was canonised by Pope Louis XI, the city took on the name Saint-Claude alone and remained a favoured site for pilgrims.

Since Saint-Claude was one of the stops on the Way of Saint James, the monks, who had been turning wood since the 7th century, began crafting wooden religious objects like crucifixes and rosaries. These monks slowly began training craftsmen, which lead to the establishment of the first wood turning workshop in Saint-Claude.

The craftsmen developed the manufacture of wooden items and widened the scope of their operation by making toys (spinning tops, whistles and rattles), so children and pilgrims could play during their pilgrimages. The number of turning workshops then grew. The main materials they used were wood, bone and ivory.

But with the introduction of tobacco to France, of smoking tobacco in particular, the wood turning workshops adapted by making snuff boxes and pipes made from local boxwood. The pipe craftsmen of Saint-Claude gradually forged themselves a reputation for an unparalleled level of manual skill and expertise.

So, it wasn’t the plentiful supply of briar that put Sainte Claude on the pipe-makers’ map but industrious wood-turning monks who passed their wood working skills on to local craftsman.  The story went on with the discovery of a non-burning pipe made from our beloved briar:

During the 19th Century, pipes from Saint-Claude underwent a profound change. Boxwood had been the wood used to make the pipes until then, but it produced a bitter taste when smoked. Around 1855, a businessman passing through Saint-Claude presented a Saint-Claude wood turner with a pipe, the bowl of which did not burn, carved from a heavy wood in dark shades. It was the first pipe made from briar. The arborescent briar pipe is highly resistant to heat and fire, giving the smoker the greatest possible pleasure from the plumes of tobacco smoke. The craftsmen of Saint-Claude therefore began using briar instead of boxwood, ensuring the Saint-Claude pipe caused excitement in the pipe smoking community. The number of workshops grew, with names like Chacom and Butz-Choquin appearing for the first time, while the craftsmen began producing more and more high-quality pipes thanks to their expertise that became globally renowned among pipe smokers.

Considered to be the capital of briar wood pipes, EoleChacomBayard,Butz-ChoquinDenicoteaJeantet and Ropp are well-known names all originally claimed by Saint Claude, France. The works of Saint Claude’s craftsmen are also present, for example, in the unique handmade pipes created by Pierre Morel (link).

One more factoid about Saint Claude’s history caught my attention.  In 1966, Saint Claude established the Confrérie des Maîtres-Pipiers de Saint-Claude (The Brotherhood of Master Pipe-Makers in Saint-Claude) to promote the expertise of the many masters that have historically resided and worked in Saint Claude.  Famous personalities are inducted as the “Premier Pipe-Smoker of the Year’ to serve as ambassadors for the pipe industry in Saint Claude.   For every personality chosen, Paul Lanier (awarded the prestigious meilleur ouvrier de France title in 1991), crafts a pipe that includes a portrait of the inductee, thus perpetuating the tradition of the sculpted briar pipe.  I think this is a very cool tradition and found it very interesting that the first likeness below strongly resembles the master pipe restorer who oversees Rebornpipes.com!dal9According to Pipedia, the Jeantet name came on to the scene in 1775.  The 1800s saw great expansion of production of Jeantet pipes primarily through the development of local cottage industry – farming out different aspects of the pipe production to small shops in Saint Claude.  Consolidated production grew in the 1900s but in the 1960s sales dwindled in spite of attempts to modernize.  This final part of my research comes from Pipehill:

1988
The company was taken over by S.A. Cuty Fort Entreprises(1) while keeping its label. It established in the group beside Chapuis-Comoy (Chacom), Jean Lacroix and Emile Vuillard.  Today (2010) the brand isn’t part of the group any more. The label owned by Dominique Jeantet still exists but pipe production is discontinued.dal10When I take this product of Sainte Claude, France, the Jeantet Fleuron, out of the ‘Rescue Me’ basket, I take a closer and more appreciative look at the pipe.  First impressions mark the nice shape of the stummel – I like the tapered egg shape that culminates in a tightly circled rim beveled on the inner chamber side.  The bowl shows minor cake and appears to have been cleaned before but I will bring it down to the briar and clean it well.  The stummel surface has minor dents and ‘blemishes’ on the finish.  A significant ‘scab’ is evident where the shank and bowl converge on the topside.  It doesn’t appear to be a burn through but this will need attention after cleaning the exterior surface.  The rim has minor dent marks on the blade edge of the beveled rim.  When I take off the stem, I notice that in the mortise is a metal cylinder – some sort of a metal airway or a stinger that got loose?  With a few thumps on my palm, the rogue stinger shakes loose (pictured below).  After attempting to insert it into the end of the tenon, I have questions as to whether this stinger is original – the fit is very loose which explains why it slipped down into the stummel airway.  I decide the stinger is history and it goes in the spare parts bucket.  Minor teeth dents are on the underside of the bit. I take some close up shots for a better look at problem areas.dal11 dal12 dal13 dal14 dal15 dal16I begin by putting the stem in an OxiClean bath to soak in order to raise the oxidation out of the vulcanite.  Then I take my Pipnet Reaming Kit and work on the light cake build up in the bowl.  I use the two smaller blades of the four blades available to me to ream the bowl.  After this I use 240 grit sanding paper to further clean and smooth the chamber wall.  I like working on a clean pipe so I take pipe cleaners and Q-tips dipped in isopropyl 95% and work the mortise and stummel airway.  The internals were surprisingly clean so it didn’t take long.

Now to the external surface.  I use undiluted Murphy Oil Soap on the stummel with cotton pads to remove the grime and hopefully to eradicate some of the blemishes I detect on the surface.  After cleaning with Murphy Soap I rinse the stummel with cool tap water avoiding water entering the fire chamber or mortise.  The ‘scab’ at the upper junction of the shank and bowl is starting to look like a botched superglue repair job.  I’ll need to give some thought as to how to address this eyesore on an otherwise attractive piece of briar – I’m starting to see the briar’s potential.  The pictures show the progress. dal17 dal18 dal19 dal20I put the stummel aside and turn to the clean-up of the stem.  I fish the stem out of the Oxyclean bath.  It did the job of ‘surfacing’ the dull greenish oxidation and I initially attack it with 000 steel wool.  I then clean the internal airway with bristled and smooth pipe cleaners dipped in isopropyl 95%.  The stem put up more resistance than the stummel.  After several pipe cleaners I’m satisfied that the airway is ready for service.dal21 dal22Next, the ‘scab’ on the bowl surface.  I take 240 grit sanding paper rolled as close to a blade as I could make it and sanded the gummed up super glue patch – at least I believe that is what it is – at the junction between the upper shank and bowl.  I sand the super glue or epoxy down to the surface.  When I remove the buildup bump it appears to be a patch – I don’t believe it’s a burn through, but it’s definitely a fill.  It appears to be solid so I leave it as is and hope to blend it when I finish the stummel.  Next I prepare a batch of briar dust super glue putty to fill in two holes just below the rim at about 1 o’clock (picture below).  I use a toothpick as a trowel to pack the holes well and to leave an overflow so that it will sand out smoothly with the surface.  The final repair is to apply black super glue to two small tooth dents on the underside of the bit.  When cured, it will sand smooth and polish well.  The pictures show the progress of the patch work.dal23 dal24 dal25 dal26After the KE-150 Black super glue patch on the underside of the bit cures, I take 240 grit sanding paper to smooth out the patch bumps bringing them down to the stem surface level.  I do the same to remove light tooth chatter on the upper side.  To redefine the button, I use the needle file to shape the contours of the button lip top and bottom.  I again use 240 grit to remove the file marks and remove light tooth chatter.  With micromesh pads grit from 1500 to 2400 I wet sand the stem and apply Obsidian Oil.  Unfortunately, after admiring the shine beginning to move to the surface, I also saw some small ‘patches’ of oxidation remained visible – a bit near the button and on both upper and lower parts of the saddle stem that tapers from shank level down to button level.  If this part of the saddle stem has a special name, I’m not sure what it is!  I was frustrated and therefore forgot to picture this!  I put the stem back in the Oxyclean bath for another baptism.  The pictures below represent the micromesh process after the second bath, which raised the residue oxidation to the surface and I remove it beginning with the 1500 grit micromesh pad.  Following the 1500 to 2400 micromesh wet sand cycle (again!) I apply Obsidian Oil.  With pads from 3200 to 4000 grit I dry sand and follow again with applying Obsidian Oil to the stem.  I complete the micromesh polishing with pads 6000 to 12000, apply Obsidian Oil and put the stem aside to dry.  I’m pleased with the results even though I had a detour.  The pictures show the progress on the stem repairs and polishing.dal27 dal28 dal29 dal30 dal31With the stem ready for a stummel, I start working on completing the Jeantet’s re-commissioning by using 240 grit sanding paper to remove the cured briar dust super glue putty patch on the holes just below the rim.  I’m careful to sand strategically by folding the paper and using it like a blade directly on the patch so I don’t unintentionally sand into the rim’s sharp beveled top edge – that would not be good to deface the rim!  I take a before and after picture to show the progress.  The rim already has a very nice bevel, but to remove the dents and pitting on the rim I use 240 grit paper folded and work on the rim.  I pinch the paper with my thumb on the beveled contour as I rotate the stummel.  I find that this method allows for an even movement and a consistent bevel angle to develop.  With the bevel already in place, I simply go with the contour that is already present but remove the damage producing a fresh beveled surface.dal32 dal33 dal34Well, all work on the Jeantet came to a halt for about 3 weeks as my wife and I enjoyed our annual R&R on the Black Sea coast near the fishing town of Sozopol.  Reading books and enjoying the beach is one of our favorite things to do to relax and decompress from the work we do in Bulgaria.  A special joy to us during these weeks was the visit of our daughter and her husband from Denver, Colorado.  They joined us at the Black Sea for our last few days on the beach and from there we took them to see different sights in Bulgaria as well as spending the last week of their visit on the beautiful Greek island of Santorini!  Another great part about their visit was that they brought supplies and pipes I had ordered and purchased from eBay.  They also brought another prize – the Savinelli pipe knife to add to my tool box that I won in a fierce bid on eBay!  During this time of R&R I also visited several antique shops in different Bulgarian towns and secured some future restorations – it was a good time but now, back to life and the Jeantet Fleuron!

With stem reattached to the stummel I use a medium grade sanding sponge on the bowl.  Following this, I utilized all 9 micro-mesh sanding pads, 1500 to 12000 to sand/polish the bowl preparing it for staining. I’m liking the briar grains beginning to make an appearance on the Jeantet.  The pictures show the progress on the stummel surface.dal35 dal36I’m anxious to try out one of the supply items that my daughter and son in law brought from the US – Fiebing’s Leather Dye.  They brought dark brown and oxblood colors and I decide to try the dark brown on the Jeantet.  One of the challenges that I have finding supplies in Bulgaria is not having good selection of aniline (alcohol based) dyes or stains that would readily ‘flame’ helping to set the stain in the wood. I remove the stem and give the bowl a cleaning with alcohol with a cotton pad to make sure it is clean from the residue left over from sanding.  I set the bowl up on the cork and candle stand, inverted to apply the dark brown dye that I have chosen.  Using a cotton dauber, also a new arrival from the US, I apply the dye liberally over the inverted bottom of the bowl allowing the dye to saturate the briar surface.  I’m able to rotate the bowl with the cork in hand to make sure dye reaches the rim beveled surface on the bottom. When the surface is covered I flame it with a butane lighter which evaporates the alcohol from the dye and sets the color more deeply in the grain.  After it cools to the touch, I repeat the process above a second time, applying dye and flaming.  The pictures below show the progress but also the fact that I need to figure out a better way of pouring the dye into the lid so I’m not wasting so much on my work board missing the briar!  After cooled, I use cotton pads with isopropyl 95% and wipe down the newly stained bowl to lighten it and even out the dye application.  This allows the grain to jump out more it seems to me.dal37 dal38 dal39I let the bowl sit overnight to thoroughly dry and set the newly stained surface.  I turn to my Dremel using a felt wheel with Tripoli compound on the bowl surface and stem to begin the polishing process.  I utilize the slowest RPM speed and keep the wheel moving over the briar surface – not pressing too much allowing the wheel and compound to do the work.  I follow the Tripoli with Blue Diamond – also with its own dedicated felt wheel (each compound has dedicated wheels) and again, allow the RPMs, wheel and compound to do the work, keeping the movement of the wheel moving on the stummel surface.  For the carnauba wax application, I switch from a felt wheel to a cotton cloth wheel and also increase the RPM speed on the Dremel by one number.  I have discovered that the carnauba needs a bit more ‘heat’ to spread evenly over the surface.  I apply several coats of carnauba wax over the bowl surface and stem.  I love to watch how the briar grain increasingly pops with each step of the polishing process.  The beauty of the grain on the Jeantet Fleuron is living up to its name – Fleuron.  Since I didn’t study French in school, Google translate provided the English meaning of Fleuron – ‘finial’, which is, according to Dictionary.com, “a relatively small, ornamental, terminal feature at the top of a gable, pinnacle, etc.”  Or, simply, a nice finishing touch!  I complete the Jeantet Fleuron with a clean cotton cloth wheel buff with the Dremel and then a rigorous buffing by hand with a microfiber cloth to bring out the grain even more and deepen the shine.

Since my wife has lovingly started to put her foot down regarding my growing collection of pipes (I’m sure some of you have faced this as well!) this Jeantet Fleuron 70-7 will make a debut on eBay Europe and US to find a good home! I am considering how to sell more restored pipes and giving the profits to help further the work we do here, with the Daughters of Bulgaria – Bulgarian women who are sexually exploited and trafficked.  If you’re interested in adding the Jeantet to your collection, leave a comment below.  Thanks for joining me!dal40 dal41 dal42 dal43 dal44 dal45 dal46 dal47

 

Cleaning up a Long Shanked Jeantet Lumberman


Blog by Steve Laug

This lightly sandblasted long shank Canadian is stamped Jeantet over Lumberman on the underside of the shank. The tortoise-shell Lucite stem is stamped with a J in a circle on top of the freehand style stem and on the underside it is stamped Hand Cut and France. The shank extension is made of acrylic made to look like faux bone. The mortise is lined with a brass insert to stabilise the shank extension. The tenon is Delrin. The fit in the shank is snug and clean. The slot in the stem was dirty with a black buildup in the edges and the Y-shaped opening. The shank smelled dirty and strongly of aromatic tobacco. The finish was dirty but looked to be in good condition under the grime. There was a large nick in the right side of the bowl half way down the side. It was rough to the touch. The rim was tarry and dirty but underneath it was smooth. The inner and outer edge of the rim looked in good condition. There was a light cake in the bowl. It is a big pipe – 8 inches long, 2 inches tall, bowl is 1 ¾ inch deep, the bowl diameter is ¾ inch.jean1I have had a few older Jeantet pipes over the years but never one that was quite like this one. It is truly a beautiful piece of workmanship. I looked up information on two of my go to websites for information. The first was pipehphil’s Logos and stamping site. There I found that the Jeantet Company joined the Cuty-Fort Enterprises group (Chacom, Ropp, Vuillard, Jean Lacroix…) in 1992. In 2010 it dropped out and the brand isn’t part of the group any more. The label once again is owned by the Jeantet family (Dominique Jeantet). The production of pipes is currently discontinued. Dominique Jeantet retired in 2000. http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-jeantet.html

The second site I looked on was Pipedia (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Paul_Jeantet_SA). There I found information from a book by José Manuel Lopes’ entitled Pipes, Artisans and Trademarks. Since I have the book here I went and read it first hand in the book. Here is what I found there.

Paul Jeantet SA (formerly Ebonite Co. is a French factory in Saint-Claude, and the name and business of the business man who in 1912 began making vulcanite stems for the pipe industry. Coming from a family of pipe makers (see Jeantet), Paul started using ebonite for the stems.

Paul Jeantet SA factory (1905 Saint-Claude), from the Jeantet Website: At one point the company was producing 35 million stems a year, and is still one of the few to produce ebonite stems in Europe.

From the Jeantet website: Founded in 1905 by Paul JEANTET, our company is being progressing in the field of rubber compound. Since the 70´s, JEANTET élastomères has been controlling the both processes of over molding and adhesion rubber / metal. Our manufacture is set in a 7000 m2 block, based in Saint-Claude, France. We are at one hour far from Geneva and one hour and a half far from Lyon. From prototype to mass production, JEANTET élastomères, certified ISO 9001, guarantee you availability and speed answers to all your asks of quotation.

Today, our group includes three companies specializing in vulcanized and thermoplastic elastomers : JEANTET élastomères, IXEMER ans PERROT. We are at your disposal for the creation and the development of innovating solutions. In 2014, the Group JEANTET took back the clientele of the Swiss company DUFOUR industries, what consolidates an important presence on the Swiss market of parts in Elastomers. (The Lopes’ book included the following contact information for the brand.

Contact Information:
JEANTET élastomères
Website: http://www.jeantet.com
6 Faubourg des Moulins
39200 SAINT-CLAUDE
Phone: +33 (0)3 84 45 79 00
E-mail: jeantet@jeantet.com

When the pipe arrived in Vancouver in a lot of pipes that Jeff sent me it caught my eye. It is a beautiful pipe. I took the next four photos to show the condition of the pipe when I started working on it.jean2 jean3I took a close up photo of the bowl and the rim. You can see the light cake in the bowl and the overflow on the back and the right side of the rim top. Underneath it looks like there is some good-looking grain.jean4I sanded the rim clean and took off the burned areas on the rim top with 220 grit sandpaper. I followed that by sanding the rim with 1500-4000 grit micromesh sanding pads. I wiped it down with alcohol and then used a light and a medium brown stain pen to touch up the rim to match the rest of the bowl.jean5I rolled a piece of sandpaper and sanded the inside of the bowl and the inner edge of the rim to clean up the damage left behind by the burns.jean6I waxed the bowl and shank with Conservator’s Wax and buffed it with a shoe brush to give it a shine.jean7I cleaned out the inside of the mortise, the airway in the shank and the stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol until it was clean.jean8I polished the tortoise coloured Lucite stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit and dry sanding with 3200-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down with a damp cloth to remove the grit and grime.jean10 jean11 jean12I buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel to polish the stem and the rim. I buffed the bowl and stem with carnauba wax and buffed it with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfibre cloth to deepen the shine. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. It is a beautiful pipe and one I have not seen before. There is something about it that draws the eye. For a pipe this large it is well-balanced and proportionally works well. Thanks for looking.jean13 jean14 jean15 jean16 jean17 jean18 jean19 jean20