Tag Archives: Oxidation

The Sentimental Journey Continued – Restoring a Second Medico, a Smooth Billiard


Blog by Steve Laug

In a previous post called a Sentimental Journey I wrote of why Medico’s always get attention when they cross my desk. Last evening I reached into my box of pipes to be refurbished and pulled out the next pipe to clean up and it too was Medico – this time it was a smooth billiard. The finish was worn and the varnish was peeling off the bowl. The rim was badly knocked around so there was damage on the outer edge at the front of the bowl and the back. There was a heavy build up on top of the damage and the bowl had a thick cake at mid bowl – not much at the top or bottom. The stamping was the same as the previous pipe – MEDICO on the left side of the shank and Imported Briar Italy on the right side. A bonus for me was that the stem I had work on for the little Rhodesian fit this one and only needed adjustment in the diameter of the stem. It had the metal tenon that was generally on Medico pipes and would hold the Medico paper filter as per design. The rest of the stem was vulcanite not nylon which was a bonus.IMG_2408 IMG_2409 IMG_2410 IMG_2411I cleaned out the shank and fit the stem in place to see how much sanding I would need to do to match the diameter of the shank. It did not look like it would take very much to bring it in line. I would need to sand the aluminum band on the stem at the same time so I would need to be careful to not create dips or valleys next to it on the softer vulcanite when sanding.IMG_2412 IMG_2413I sanded the stem with 150 grit sandpaper to reduce the diameter of the stem.IMG_2414I reamed the bowl with a PipNet reamer using the smallest cutting head to clean it out.IMG_2415To clean up the rim damage I topped the bowl with 220 grit sandpaper to take down the rim and reduce the rough pitting on the outer edge. I also sanded around the edge of the rim to smooth out the remaining roughness.IMG_2416IMG_2417IMG_2418I wanted to get rid of the peeling varnish on the bowl so I wiped it down with acetone on cotton pads to remove it. It took a lot of scrubbing as the varnish was very stubborn.IMG_2419IMG_2420IMG_2421I sanded the bowl and the rim with 220 grit sandpaper and then with medium and fine grit sanding sponges to remove more of the finish and reduce the scratching on the bowl. I sanded it with a medium and fine grit sanding sponge before wiping it down one last time with alcohol. I decided to stain it with an aniline based oxblood stain. I applied it and then flamed it to set it in the grain.IMG_2422 IMG_2423I rubbed the excess stain off with an alcohol dampened cloth and then hand buffed it with a shoe brush. This old Medico had some really nice grain and was a far better piece of briar than I had expected.IMG_2424 IMG_2425 IMG_2426 IMG_2427 IMG_2428I sanded the bowl with 1500-2400 grit micromesh sanding pads and then buffed it with White Diamond to smooth out the bowl further. I gave it a coat of carnauba wax and buffed it lightly.IMG_2429 IMG_2430 IMG_2431 IMG_2432I finished the work on the stem fit and then sanded it with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12,000 grit pads. I rubbed it down with Obsidian Oil and moved through each successive set of three pads. Once I had finished sanding it I rubbed it down a final time with the oil and gave it a buff with White Diamond.IMG_2433 IMG_2434 IMG_2435I put the pipe back together and gave it a final buff with White Diamond and then multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed it with a soft flannel buff to finish and polish the wax. The finished pipe is shown in the next series of photos. It is a small light weight billiard with fairly decent grain and a few character marks. The new stem fits well and it looks better than it did when it left the factory. It should provide a great smoke to another pipeman. This is one that I will inevitably gift to someone along the way.IMG_2436 IMG_2437 IMG_2438 IMG_2439

A Sentimental Journey – the Restemming and Restoration of a Medico Rhodesian


Blog by Steve Laug

For years now I have had a special spot in my heart for Medico pipes. I don’t like the paper filter system, or the cheap stems with the split aluminum tenon, or the heavy varnish on the briar, or the fills that are hidden below the thick varnish, or any endless number of complaints that come to the surface with these old US made briar pipes. But I can’t get past the fact that the first pipe I ever owned was a Medico – paper filter and all, and that the first pipe I picked up when my first daughter was born years later was a Medico as well. Because of that whenever I am given an old Medico bowl I restem it and restore it. I strip away the varnish and rework the fills, make a new stem and bring it back to life in even better condition that it was when it was first sent out.

The Medico that I worked on in this restoration was a straight shank Rhodesian that came to me in a gift box of bowls. It was stemless and I had two potential stems that would work for it. There truly was nothing particularly redeemable that I saw in the bowl so the reason was as stated above solely sentimental. The bowl was dirty and worn with a thick cake. The rim had been battered and had deep nicks on the outer edge. There was a thick dark red varnish on the briar. It was stamped MEDICO on the left side of the shank and Imported Briar Italy on the right side. On the left side of the bowl was a large brown putty fill that stood out like a sore thumb. The first stem I tried was a split metal tenon Medico style stem. It was worn but usable.Med1 Med2 Med3 Med4 It fit the shank perfectly and looked good on the pipe. I thought for sure this would be a simple and quick restoration. I should have learned by now that whenever I think that problems would pop up on the way to the finish. I cleaned the shank with cotton swabs, pipe cleaners and isopropyl alcohol.Med5The top of the bowl was badly damaged with large dents and missing chunks on the outer edge of the rim so I decided to top the bowl. I used the topping board with 220 grit sandpaper and worked on the rim until it was smooth and clean. There were still several places on the outer front edge that would need to be worked on but the finished look of the topped bowl was far better than when I had started.Med6 Med7I wiped down the bowl with acetone on cotton pads to remove the thick varnish coat and clean up the finish on the bowl. I wanted to remove it back to the briar. In the process the dark red stain coat also was removed from the bowl.Med8Once the stain coat and varnish were removed I could see several problems that I would need to address. The front edge of the bowl needed to be sanded and the slope on the cap would need to be modified by hand sanding to remove the damage on the front edge and face of the cap. There was also a fine crack that had seeped tobacco oils on the top right edge of the shank. It had been hidden by the dark stain. When I move the stem it was not visible and did not open or spread but it was definitely present. I would need to clean up the shank, band it and with the band a different stem would need to be fit to the shank. The stem I had previously chosen had a metal face that would not work against the band. I scrubbed the bowl and shank until all the red stain that I could remove was gone.Med9 Med10 Med11I used a Dremel with a sanding drum to sand back the shank so that I could fit a band on the shank. I also wanted to smooth out the surface of the rustication pattern and clean up the crack so that I could glue and clamp it before banding.Med12I put the band around the end of the shank and then heated the metal band with a Bic lighter until I could press it into place on the shank. It took several reheats with the lighter before I had a flush fit on the band. At that point I took the second stem I had chosen and lightly sanded the tenon to get a good tight fit in the shank and pushed it in place.Med13 Med14 Med15 Med16I reamed the bowl with my PipNet reamer and the smallest cutting head until I had taken the cake back to bare wood. I wanted the bowl to be clean so that I could see if there was any damage to the interior of the bowl.Med17Once I had reamed the bowl I reshaped the angle on the cap with 220 grit sandpaper and medium and fine grit sanding sponges. Once I had the angle correct around the entire rim and had removed the damage on the front of the cap I sanded the entire bowl with the sanding sponges. I also sanded the stem with the same sandpaper and sanding sponge combination to remove the oxidation and tooth chatter near the button. The newly shaped bowl and freshly sanded stem is shown in the next series of four photos below.Med18 Med19 Med20 Med21I stained the bowl with some oxblood aniline stain and flamed it. I wanted the red colour of the stain but I did not want it to be as opaque as the original stain had been. The aniline stain seems to be more transparent. It did however, do a great job in hiding the big fill on the left side of the bowl.Med22 Med23 Med24I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper, then a medium and fine grit 3M sanding sponge. I followed that with my usual array of micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12,000 grit pads. I rubbed the stem down between each set of three pads with Obsidian Oil before moving on to the next three pads. I finished by giving it a final rubdown with the oil before taking it to the buffer.Med25 Med26 Med27I buffed the entire pipe with White Diamond and then gave it multiple coats of carnauba wax to protect and polish both bowl and stem. With that completed my sentimental journey with this old Medico was complete and it was ready to go back into service. I am sure I will gift this pipe to some new pipeman somewhere along the way as it should smoke very well and give many years of service. It is not a thing of beauty and never will be but it is a good serviceable pipe that will deliver a good smoke. The finished pipe is pictured in the photos below.Med28 Med29 Med30 Med31

A Glorious Republic Era Pete Killarney Flame Grain Tall Billiard – Robert M. Boughton


Guest Blog by Robert M. Boughton
Member, North American Society of Pipe Collectors
http://www.roadrunnerpipes.com
http://about.me/boughtonrobert
Photos © the Author

“What’s this world without its pleasure? What is pleasure but a pipe?”
— W.H. Logan, author, “A Pedlar’s Pack of Ballads and Songs,” 1869

INTRODUCTION
I doubt anyone could have summed up my own thoughts on the matter better or with more conciseness than the eclectic author, W.H. Logan. My pipes are my great pleasure, my main collection, my hobby, my trade. When I found this Peterson Killarney Red Flame Grain Tall Billiard available online, for a price that seemed too good to be true, I suspected some serious flaws somewhere. But a close inspection showed only a few scratches on the shiny wax and perhaps high grade varnish surface as well as the kind of rim blackening and chamber buildup that scares away so many bidders who are not prepared to deal with these little matters.

I had to have it, and so once again I over-bid to ward away the timid masses. I never had to increase that one bid and got it for an incredible $38.01, which seemed so precise I knew one of the others watching the pipe had offered a mere penny more than the previous contestant. The day it arrived at my Post Office Box, I cut through the tape and package label of the parcel on my way to the car and then sat behind the wheel to take out the contents. I admit I was relieved to inspect the new prize and find there were no hidden damages.

Giving the seller a high rating in all areas and commenting that I got it for a steal, I received a response from the gentleman that thanked me for one more perfect grade on his spotless record and went on to add, in reply to my written comment, “Yes, you did get it for a steal.” I could hear him saying it with a touch of disappointment.

Still, I was surprised when I saw the following nomenclature on the right shank:Robert1In case the enlargement is unclear, it reads, in block letters, “A Peterson Product” (which was in fact in quotes) over “Made in the Rep.” over “of Ireland,” with the number 120 to the right of the bottom line. Looking it up on pipephil.eu, I was pleased to confirm that it was a Republic Era pipe, a fact I had not been able to determine when I bid for it, placing its date of manufacture at somewhere between 1950-1989. Given the discoloration of the stem and general appearance of long, hard use, I suspect it is from the 1970s.

Out of about 85 pipes I have in my collection, although the biggest part of that is comprised of meerschaums, a dozen are Peterson’s (and there is still another, a vintage Kildare, on the way). This old Killarney is not the best of them – being outdone by the tiny Gold Spigot natural grain, the Mark Twain Rusticated Bent Billiard system and the 150th Anniversary Special Edition natural bent billiard – but it is without doubt the most beautiful.

At one point believing I would never have the skill to restore a meerschaum, I did so with several and have a major project underway with one that is 115-120 years old. Among my other great wishes was to have the opportunity to restore a Peterson, and now it is a done deed, with even better results than I ever imagined.

Please don’t get the idea that I am bragging; far from it. I possess an acute awareness of my strengths and weaknesses (among the latter of which remains stem fitting, not to mention the mere idea of re-shaping one). Nevertheless, I have learned much during the past two years – most of it coming with ease due to my natural affinity for working with wood – but nothing more so than how much is left. In fact, I understand now, nobody knows everything about the craft/art of restoring pipes, not even my good friend and mentor or our host, both of whom are masters.

My greatest fear with the restoration of this Killarney was that after removing the burning of the rim I would be unable to return that thin, small but vital part of the pipe as a whole to its original, rich red color and shine. But almost by instinct, I worked out that problem when the time came.

THE RESTORATIONRobert2 Robert3 Robert4 Robert5First thing after my quick-clean inspection of the pipe’s interior integrity, I began my assault on the chamber with my Senior Reamer, the blades of which I retracted all the way and was still almost unable to insert it past the buildup of cake to the bottom. Turning the blades outward until they were stuck, I cranked in a slow, circular manner, pushing the top of the tool toward the rim as I listened to the carbon crumble. This step of the process took three adjustments of the blades to clear the cake.

After blowing through the shank to clear most of the leftover carbon dust, I wet a small square of cotton with alcohol and pushed it with a finger down the center of the chamber, then turned it a few times to soak up the rest. Using a 1-1/4×2” piece of 150-grit paper that, when curved to fit inside the chamber, just fit the diameter and left a little room above the rim with which to apply torque, I put a smaller finger inside the paper and began to twist it, first using the most pressure along the top of the chamber and working my way down. In this fashion I was able to clear the remaining carbon until briar showed most of the way through to the draught hole.

Having learned by the restoration of my third meerschaum that super fine steel wool is my favorite and, I think, the safest way to remove rim burning, I applied a pad of the 0000-grade to the blackness and watched as it disappeared with ease and left the rim clean and still shiny. However, there were some serious scratches covering the rim as well as a groove worn into it on the inner shank side.Robert6A little elbow grease and 1500 micromesh eliminated all of these blemishes, but at the same time dulled the finish. A piece of 2400 micromesh worked out the scratches on the bowl with minor effect on the original waxes.Robert7It was time to clean and sanitize the shank and stem. I dipped a cleaner into alcohol, and as I inserted it into the shank I felt the tar and other gunk resist. The cleaner came out pitch black. After seven identical runs, during which the grime inside at least lost its resistance, the cleaners were just as black. I decided to do a bowl and shank flush with alcohol, but first I ran about eight cleaners soaked in alcohol through the stem until it came out clean.

Top: Shank cleaners.  Middle: chamber cake and cotton cleaner.  Bottom: stem cleaners.

Top: Shank cleaners. Middle: chamber cake and cotton cleaner. Bottom: stem cleaners.

Robert9Following the alcohol flush, the shank was clean and the briar showed through from top to bottom of the chamber. That is the cleanest I have ever restored a chamber.

The stem was in good shape except for some tooth chatter in the lip. I used 400-grit paper on the chatter followed by 1500 micromesh again on the entire stem to remove minor scratches and discoloration. As usual, I buffed it with red and white Tripoli and White Diamond.

The end of my project being nigh so soon, it seemed, I looked over the bowl and shank. The next to last thing left to do was re-stain the rim using marine cordovan (burgundy) boot stain and flame it. I let it sit for a minute before turning to 2400 micromesh for a nice, slow, gentle rub to remove the black flakes left from the stain and get down just to the wood grain. Again, the color was lighter red than the rest of the bowl, which worried me, but there was no choice but to buff the whole thing.

I almost always use the same three waxes for this step: white Tripoli, White Diamond and carnauba. But this time I looked at the red Tripoli wheel and decided it could only help. Starting there and following with the rest, I was shocked to see that the finished pipe was uniform in deep red color and shine. The feeling when that kind of success occurs is indescribable.Robert10 Robert11 Robert12 Robert13 Robert14CONCLUSION
As I wrote this account, I smoked in the just restored Peterson’s Killarney a full bowl of Comoy’s Cask №. 5 Bullet Eye Select, with its tasty blend of bright orange Virginias, Burleys and Tennessee bourbon. The writing came to me with unusual ease, but still, that was one long bowl! This all just goes to point out that the beautiful, red, flame grain Killarney gives a long, excellent smoke, although the bowl does tend to get hot enough to hold the pipe as necessary by the shank.

Being a Peterson’s fan and collector, as I stated already, I’ve decided this is a keeper. There is just no way, no how, I am going to offer this pipe as the newest addition to my online store, as nice as it would be to post it for sale and take in the money.

Now the pipe is almost empty, and I am full.

Cleaning Up an Old Ropp Cherrywood That Was Once Given Love and Attention – Robert M. Boughton


Guest Blog by Robert M. Boughton
Member, North American Society of Pipe Collectors
http://www.roadrunnerpipes.com
http://about.me/boughtonrobert
Photos © the Author

“Action is character.”
— F. Scott Fitzgerald, in a note to himself on a page of “The Last Tycoon,” his final and unfinished novel (published in 1941)

INTRODUCTION
The great American novelist and short story writer quoted above, who is lesser known for his screenwriting work, and for good reason, only resorted to the genre to make ends meet while he attempted to dry out. Note I write attempted, as he died of alcoholism in 1940 at 44. Nevertheless, he knew from both experiences that memorable characters, and therefore their stories, are created far more through their actions than their words.

Fitzgerald was among the best at describing what all of his characters do in his own unique way, although that in no way detracts from the words they speak. His unvarying craft of employing the rule he penned to himself on his final and half-finished manuscript has become the basis of most good present-day screenwriters’ rule of thumb, “Character is action, not dialogue.”

And so it is with this Ropp cherrywood. Its condition tells the whole story of the man who smoked it through the inconsistent actions he took to preserve it. The wood of the bowl and shank was kept as the pipe’s probable one owner obtained it. The stem, however, was left with scratches and minor tooth marks. And while the bore, mortise and draught hole showed clear signs of being cleaned almost with fanaticism, the chamber did not fare so well. Although nowhere close to being as filled with cake as the other pipes I described in prior admitted diatribes, I still removed enough carbon to fill the chamber whence it came.
All of this suggests to me that the lovely cherrywood was adored by its previous owner, who indeed smoked it so often it may have been his only pipe. His sole lack of full attention was to the chamber.

In a recent purchase of several lots of pipes on eBay, the first of which had some gems that were grotesque from abuse, I still saw that I could restore their luster. Some of my recent blogs have hinted at my ill opinion of those who treat their pipes with such disrespect. I even resorted to outright railing against these unknown enjoyers of the fair leaf. But in fact, the truth is that they know not what they do. When I received it in the mail, the condition of a Ropp natural cherrywood Air Dry system pipe [see “The Revolution of the System Pipe”], with a small brass tube inserted in the bottom of the bowl and leading to the chamber to relieve excess heat, was a little more complicated.

I own a more conventional Ropp natural cherrywood De Luxe, canted and flat on the bottom and therefore a sitter as it should be.

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Picture 1

I considered swapping it with the more recent Air Dry, which has a rounded bottom and is already listed for sale on my online store. My only reasoning being that the Air Dry was more novel and might be older, I had a change of heart, in the literal sense. The more I thought about it, the more certain I became that the Air Dry’s long-time owner would not have traded it for anything. Who was I to give up with such nonchalance one that has served me so well? Besides, my De Luxe might just be older.

THE PIPE RESTORATION
The first thing I did was disassemble the pipe, meaning I unscrewed the stem and shank from the bowl.

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There was blackening beyond the screws in the bowl’s hole [picture 3]. I saw that the threads of the shank itself were blackened [picture 2] and so I cleaned them right away with alcohol and also followed my initial quick clean routine to find if there were any obstructions in the parts. To my happy surprise, given the first impression of the chamber [picture 7], the quick clean was all that was necessary. Without doubt, these were the easiest stem and shank I have ever had to clean, leading to my surmising in the Introduction as to the complicated character of the original owner.

I also noted the small, unpolished areas of wood around the shank hole in the bowl [picture 3] and both ends of the shank [picture 4], although the stem side’s roughness does not show in the last picture. A fast buffing of the bowl’s hole and the tips of the shank (excluding the threads) with red and white Tripoli, White Diamond and carnauba made them shine like the rest of the wood. The following photos are the pipe before any work was done.

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Starting the hardest part of the restore, which was pretty straightforward with nothing of special difficulty, I put my reamer to the bowl and began the process of turning it at increasing depths with great care to protect the cherry wood. Most of the top quarter-inch cleared down to the wood. The rest came in time. Altogether this stage took me about a half-hour, including the final sanding with 220-grit paper to make the chamber smooth and even all the way down.

All that was left to do was finish up the scratched stem with minor chatter and the wood. I used #1500 micromesh on most of the stem and 200-grit paper for the teeth marks, and spun it on the buffers with red Tripoli and White Diamond. The shank and bowl I could have left alone, but since it was a bit duller than it could be I applied white Tripoli, White Diamond and carnauba.

As with my De Luxe, a dab of beeswax was needed to hold the stem in place.

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CONCLUSION
I figured out at last that those who enjoy pipes are complex characters, perhaps or perhaps not more so than others. As William Shakespeare, a greater writer even than Fitzgerald, had Jacques put it in “As You Like It,” Act II, sc, vii:

All the world’s a stage,
And all the men and women merely players;
They have their exits and their entrances,
And one man in his time plays many parts….

Shakespeare, who is believed to have written the play c. 1600, when he would have been about 36, knew better than anyone about the importance of action to character. He made his final exit when he was 54 – but in those days, that was common.

Renewing a Savinelli Punto Oro Canadian 804


Blog by Steve Laug

This is the last of the lot of pipes I picked up on my recent pipe hunt. It is pictured as the second photo down from the top in the photo below. It is stamped on the smooth underside of the shank Savinelli Punto Oro and next to that is the Savinelli shield next to 804 over Italy. The blast on this one is rugged and very clean. The shape is a tall bowl with an oval long shank – the sides of the oval are sharp on both sides and the curve of the top and the bottom of the shank a subtle oval shape.IMG_2049The finish on the bowl is in excellent shape. There are no dents or scratches in the bowl. The bowl had a thick cake that was crumbling toward the bottom of the bowl. The rim had a buildup of cake that had spilled over on to the top. The edges of the rim on both the inside and outside were crisp and sharp. The stem was oxidized and had a line of calcium around the stem about 2/3 of the way up the stem. I wonder if the pipe did not have a softie bit at some time during its life. There was light tooth chatter by the button. The inside of the stem and shank were dirty and there was a buildup of dark tars.Sav1 Sav2 Sav3 Sav4I reamed back the cake to bare wood using a PipNet reamer. I know that others who restore pipes don’t do that drastic a reaming but that is the method I use as I find that once cleaned the bare wood minimizes ghosting in the bowl.IMG_2131I cleaned out the stem and shank with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and isopropyl alcohol (99%). I cleaned them until the cleaners came out white and no more oils remained.Sav5 Sav6I wiped down the rim with alcohol to wet the overflow of cake and then used a brass bristle brush to scrub the rim.Sav7 Sav7a Sav8 Sav9I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper and with medium and fine grit sanding sponges to remove the oxidation and calcium deposits. I also sanded until the tooth chatter was removed from the top and bottom sides of the stem.Sav10Sav11Sav12I used the Guardsman stain pens from Greg to touch up the rim and the edges of the rim and the shank.Sav13I buffed the bowl and shank with White Diamond to polish and blend in the new stain on the rim and shank.Sav14 Sav15 Sav16 Sav17I sanded the stem with my usual list of micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12,000 grit pads. I rubbed it down after each set of three pads with Obsidian Oil and then gave it a buff with White Diamond.Sav18 Sav19 Sav20I put the stem in place and then buffed the entire pipe with White Diamond, lightly on the briar and a little heavier on the stem. I gave it multiple coats of carnauba wax and buffed it with a soft flannel buff to polish and raise the shine on the pipe. The photos below show the finished pipe – cleaned and ready to be smoked.Sav21 Sav22 Sav23 Sav24

A Reborn Peterson Tankard


Blog by Steve Laug

I have looked for one of these little Peterson Tankards for a long time. I have always liked the delicate simplicity of the pipe. The bowl is a round tankard and the pencil shank with the silver Peterson collar looks elegant. The rim is rounded and crowned. The stem has a gentle bend that allows the pipe to sit plat on the base. It is stamped on its base Peterson Tankard, Made in the Republic of Ireland. The pipe is pictured in the photo below, the third pipe down. It was one of the five I found on my recent pipe hunt.IMG_2049The Tankard was in worn but decent shape. The finish was dirty and there was darkening around the bowl middle from the hands of the previous owner. The rim had a thick buildup of tars and oils that had hardened. There were burn marks around the inner edge of the rim at the back of the pipe and the right front. The burn on the front of the bowl was more extensive that then one on the back inner rim. The bowl had a thick cake in it and the shank was dirty. The stamping was readable but faint. The stem had tooth marks on the top and bottom sides of the stem near the crease on the P-lip. It was badly oxidized and there was a heavy calcification around the stem about an inch in from the button. The silver ferrule was clean and would shine up easily.IMG_2123 IMG_2124 IMG_2125 IMG_2126I reamed the bowl with a PipNet reamer to remove the cake back to bare wood. I scrubbed down the exterior with Murphy’s Oil Soap on a cotton cloth and wiped it off to clean the briar.IMG_2128 IMG_2260 IMG_2261 IMG_2262 IMG_2263The next photo shows the reamed bowl and the caked rim top. It was very thick so it would take some work with sandpapers and oil soap to remove the tars. I scrubbed it with the soap and then with alcohol to remove as much of the tars as possible. I then sanded it with 220 grit sandpaper and a medium grit sanding sponge. I wiped it down with acetone once I had finished sanding it. The extent of the rim damage can be seen in the second photo.IMG_2264 IMG_2265I wiped down the finish with acetone on cotton pads to completely remove the wax and the finish from the outside of the bowl.IMG_2266 IMG_2267 IMG_2268I set the bowl aside to work on the stem. I used a Bic style lighter to “paint” the surface of the stem and lift the tooth marks. Doing this I was able to remove many of the tooth dents and lessen the depth of the remaining ones.IMG_2269 IMG_2270 IMG_2271I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the rest of the dents and the oxidation and calcification. I reshaped the button and the crease to sharpen them. There was one tooth mark that I could not minimize further without damaging the thickness of the stem at the crease. I used a clear super glue to fill that spot. Once the glue had dried I sanded it and then used a needle file to reshape the crease and smooth things out. I sanded the repair with 220 grit sandpaper and then with medium and fine grit sanding sponges until I had blended it into the surface of the vulcanite.IMG_2272 IMG_2273 IMG_2274 IMG_2275 IMG_2276I sanded the stem with my usual array of micromesh sanding pads to polish and finish it. I wet sanded with 1500-2400 grit sanding pads and dry sanded with 3200-12,000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil between each set of three grits. Once I finished with the micromesh pads I buffed the stem with White Diamond and then gave it several coats of carnauba wax to protect it and give it a deep shine.IMG_2281 IMG_2282 IMG_2283I decided to leave the finish natural and not stain it. I rubbed it down with a light coat of olive oil to enhance the redness of the briar.IMG_2277 IMG_2278 IMG_2279 IMG_2280I took a close up photo of the rim to see if the scratches were still visible. At the back side of the rim there were still some scratches that I needed to work on more to remove. I also wanted to see if I could also remove some more of the rim damage from the burn marks.IMG_2288I sanded the rim with a medium and a fine grit sanding sponge to work on the scratches and the burn marks. Working on the surface with the sanding sponge I was able to remove the scratches and some more of the burn marks from the surface.IMG_2289 IMG_2294I sanded the bowl with the same fine grit sanding sponge and then buffed it with White Diamond. I took special care around the stamping to make sure that I did not damage the light stamping. I gave it multiple coats of carnauba wax and lightly buffed it to a shine with a soft flannel buffing pad. The finished pipe is shown below. The birdseye grain on the sides and the cross grain on the ends both work really well. It is a beautiful pipe and I think it will be a great smoking pipe as well. It should provide many more years of service and certainly live beyond my lifetime to be passed on to a new generation of pipemen.IMG_2290 IMG_2291 IMG_2292 IMG_2293

Breathing New Life into an Astleys 48 Cherrywood


Blog by Steve Laug

The third pipe from my recent pipe hunt that I chose to restore was the last one pictured below. It is a rusticated Astleys Cherrywood style pipe with a tight rustication pattern resembling a sandblast. I think the process may have been to rusticate and then to sand down the high spots until they were smooth. The texture is really well done and comfortable to hold. The pipe is a light weight with a classic look.IMG_2049The finish was in pretty good shape with a few worn spots where the stain was rubbed off on both the bowl and shank. The rim had a buildup of tars and oils that had hardened and formed a scale on the rim. The bowl had a thick cake that choked out the diameter of the bowl. The stem had been over bent to the point it hung oddly in the mouth rather than the way the original bend had made it hang. It was also oxidized and had a buildup of calcium around the button end of the stem that covered several deep tooth marks on both the top and bottom sides of the stem.IMG_2115 IMG_2116 IMG_2117 IMG_2118As shown in the photo above the bowl had been stamped on the smooth bottom of the bowl. It read Astleys over 109 Jermyn St.Under that was stamped London over 48. I looked up the shape in an old Astleys catalogue (page pictured below) and found the 48 was round Cherrywood Briar. The description stated that it was a copy of an old English cherrywood with a flat base. The correct bend can also be seen in the photo below from the catalogue.astleys-booklet_page_07I reamed the bowl with a PipNet reamer and took the cake back to bare wood. The oily, sweet, aromatic smell was more than I wanted to deal with in terms of ghosting.IMG_2231IMG_2232IMG_2233IMG_2234I cleaned out the internals with isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs and pipe cleaners until they came out clean. I scrubbed the pipe with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap and a soft tooth brush for the sides and shank. I used a brass bristle tire brush to clean off the buildup on the rim. I then scrubbed the rim again with soap. When the scrubbing was finished I rinsed it with running water and dried it off with a cotton towel.IMG_2238IMG_2239IMG_2240IMG_2241IMG_2242I used the stain pens from Greg to touch up the worn spots on the finish of the bowl and shank. I buffed the bowl with a shoe brush once the stain was dry.IMG_2243IMG_2244IMG_2245IMG_2246Once the bowl was cleaned and buffed I turned to work on the stem. I used a needle file to give better definition to the crease on the button and clean up the bit marks on top of the button on both sides. I heated the tooth marks with a Bic lighter to raise them and then sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the small marks left behind. I also sanded to remove the calcium and oxidation on the stem.IMG_2247IMG_2248Up to this point I worked on the stem off the pipe. I avoided the area on the saddle where it sat against the shank so as not to round the shoulders. I cut a plastic washer and put it between the stem and the shank to allow me to work on the shoulders without damaging them when I sanded. I lightly reworked that area with the 220 grit sandpaper and then sanded the entire stem with medium and fine grit sanding sponges.IMG_2249IMG_2250There were still some small divots in the top of the stem so I removed it from the pipe and sanded them once more with the 220 grit sandpaper and the sanding sponges.IMG_2251I sanded the stem with the usual battery of micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12,000 grit pads. I rubbed the stem down with Obsidian Oil between each set of three pads. As the stem absorbs the oil the oxidation comes to the surface and the oil makes sanding much simpler. When I finished with the 12,000 grit pad I gave it a light buff with White Diamond.IMG_2252IMG_2253IMG_2255I gave the light spot on the shank shown in the above photo a touch up of stain and then put the stem back on the pipe and buffed the whole pipe lightly. I gave the bowl several coats of Halcyon II wax and then buffed the stem with more carnauba. I gave the entire pipe a light buff with a soft flannel wheel. The finished pipe is shown below.IMG_2256IMG_2257IMG_2258IMG_2259

A Face Lift for a Battered Old Meerschaum Bulldog – Robert M. Boughton


Guest Blog by Robert M. Boughton
Member, North American Society of Pipe Collectors
http://www.roadrunnerpipes.com
http://about.me/boughtonrobert
Photos © the Author

“Age should not have its face lifted, but it should rather teach the world to admire wrinkles as the etchings of experience and the firm line of character.”
— U.S. author Clarence Day, 1874-1937

INTRODUCTION
I agree that facelifts in most cases are attempts, nothing more than vain at best and narcissistic at worst, by those with money to burn to avoid the inevitable, and often enough have undesired effects the recipients deserve. However, in the case of a very battered and generally abused meerschaum pipe, as with some people who have suffered at the hands of others, at least a bit of a makeover is in order. This holds true with a bulldog, the animal breed of which many coarse or misguided folks think lacks beauty in the first place.

The unknown brand I will discuss, clearly a fine Turkish block example, is one of those exceptions. For reasons which will be obvious it resembled a dog that had been in a fight. I received it as part of a lot of eight from eBay that I purchased in large part because I saw the poor bulldog alone among all of the briars, and upon closer scrutiny with the magnifier observed it was filthy and somewhat oddly colored and had horrible scratches all over its once smooth, white, pristine body. Some unknown carver trying to eke out a living as his father and generations before him had done likely made it without even a signature of any sort, as is unfortunately all too common among Turkish crafters due to the central nature of humility in Islamic beliefs.

THE RESTORATION
This unfortunate meerschaum was in about as bad shape as I had ever seen any pipe I still wanted to buy. I thought, if not I, then who? There were others of more merit in the lot, but that one cried out to me. Then again, I do have a sizable collection of meerschaums and knew I would be more than happy to keep that one if things didn’t work out restoration-wise. A former roommate told me many years ago that I am attracted to strays, and although he said it with sarcasm I told him he was right. I see nothing wrong with that trait. By the way, I also tend to root for the underdog – although not as often in organized sports– such as the bull versus the matador. Nothing pleases me more than seeing a jerk in a pompous outfit, with all kinds of helpers, gang up on a bull and find himself gored and bleeding out. But that’s just a dark part of me.

THE PIPE RESTORATION

I have had fair success restoring meerschaums, including the following befores and afters: Robert1 Robert2 Robert3 Robert4And so I figured I would give this poor ol’ dog a shot:Robert5 Robert6 Robert7 Robert8 Robert9 Robert10 Robert11Despite the deplorable condition of the bowl and rim, I knew from the past that they would be the easy part of this job, so I tackled them first. I reamed the bowl and then used #800 micromesh to smooth it out. Surprisingly, with a light touch and a piece of 400-grit paper, I took the blackness right off of the rim and didn’t hurt the coloring at all. There were a few dings that rubbed out easily with #1000 micromesh.

The hard part, I knew and remember already indicating, but it bears repeating, was to remove as many of the scratches and other blemishes as I could with a minimum of damage to the nice if oddly distributed color on the outside of the bowl and shank. The spread of yellow and orange, not to mention the lack of any shine to the meerschaum, suggested over-hot smoking of this delicate if strongly shaped and named pipe. That conclusion would seem to be a no-brainer given horrendous caking within the bowl and cooking of the rim. And somehow I doubt the maker never treated it with beeswax or something else, yet it was as flat as could be.

My experience with washing the outside of a pipe with distilled water in general is that it seems to give a brighter light on the job at hand by removing all of the filth that has built up over time smoking any pipe. I could see this one was going to be worse than most, but nothing prepared me for the indefensible groping with dirty hands by whatever anti-aficionado of pipe smoking who had abused the bulldog with apparent joyful perversity. Why, I even had to scrub the muck out of the trademark groove beneath the rim! The result was not one or two, but three small pieces of cotton cloth spent and blackened with the physical dirtiness of some variety of pipe lecher.

Therefore, with the highest care, I applied stronger use of the #1000 micromesh to the seemingly endless scratches and other stray marks, like signs of skin cancer, that were everywhere. When I had stopped and resumed again time after time, finding more and more marks upon this wonderful pipe, I was at last as satisfied with the results as I knew I would ever be.

Then I used more stem cleaners and pipe freshener than I had ever expended on a single pipe, let me just say that, to sanitize the stem, shank and bowl, and by the end of it I have to admit only the stem came out perfectly clean. But I knew it was sanitized and ready to smoke one good bowl of tobacco, so I chose my own blend of burleys, Oriental, perique, a touch of Cavendishes and a bit of Virginias including red cake that I call Sneaky Rabbit (and which will soon be a house blend at my favorite tobacconist) to smoke the pipe once.
True enough, I wanted to know how this unusual bulldog smoked, but my main reason for lighting up a pipe I intend to sell and therefore knew I would have to give another quick clean was to heat the meerschaum enough to melt beeswax from a bar evenly over the outer area. I swear to it! I had researched online different processes for accomplishing this necessary completion for previous restorations, and the method I described had worked before so I knew it would again.

And so, once the smoking enjoyment had reached a high enough degree, I began applying the beeswax as described, and it worked just as well as I was certain it would. I took my last puffs of the pipe and cleared out the ash with care quickly before rubbing the beeswax vigorously into the meerschaum with a big soft cotton cloth.

The stem, despite the awful damage inflicted on the meerschaum, to my great surprise was in okay shape and only need some sanding and micro-meshing to prep it for a spin on the wax wheels.

Here are the final results:Robert12 Robert13 Robert14 Robert15 Robert16 Robert17 Robert18CONCLUSION
This was a work of love, and I know the results are a little rough around the edges. But I was determined throughout the process to assure that no more damage than had already been perpetrated against this pipe be made. It is already up for sale, but if nobody ever buys it, I know it is safe in my possession.

Restoring a Dunhill Shell Billiard 42121


Blog by Steve Laug

Of all my finds on my recent pipe hunt this little Group 4 Dunhill Shell is one of the favourites. It has a great sandblast that really had some nice craggy grain. The finish was in good shape. The rim was dirty and had a slight build up of oils and tars. The bowl was caked with a thick cake. The stem was oxidized and also had a calcium buildup for the first inch of the stem. The stem had an inner tube inside that was slightly bent that kept the stem from seating correctly in the shank. There were several shallow bite marks on the top and bottom sides of the stem near the button. Internally the stem and shank were surprisingly clean.IMG_2201 IMG_2202 IMG_2203It is stamped on the underside of the shank with 42121 Dunhill Shell over Made In England and next to the D of England was an underlined and superscript 20 next to that was an underlined 23. Using John Loring’s Dunhill Briar Pipe book the dating is 1980 as seen by the underlined 20 slightly elevated and following the D. The underlined 23 indicate that it was sold in 1983, due to the one year guarantee.IMG_2204The next photo shows the buildup on the rim that needed to be dealt with in a cleanup and restoration of the pipe.IMG_2205I cleaned out the shank and the stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and 99% isopropyl alcohol until the cotton swabs and pipe cleaners came out clean.IMG_2206 IMG_2207I scrubbed down the bowl with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap on cotton pads and then rinsed it off with running water. I dried it with a cotton towel.IMG_2208IMG_2209IMG_2210IMG_2211IMG_2212I scrubbed the rim with a soft bristle brass tire brush to clean off the tars and oils and open up the sandblast on the rim. I scrubbed it with a soft cotton pad and alcohol to remove the pieces left behind by the wire brush.IMG_2213I touched up the finish around the edges of the bowl rim and the end of the shank. I also touched up spots on the sides of the bowl and the bottom of the shank. I used the Guardsman Stain pens that Greg sent me to do the touch up work. I chose to use the lightest stain pen as it matched the colour of the bowl precisely. When I use these pens I always start with the lightest stain and work toward the darkest until I get a match.IMG_2214 IMG_2215 IMG_2216 IMG_2217I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper and then with medium and fine grit sanding sponges to remove the oxidation and the calcium deposits. I “painted” the tooth marks with the flame of a Bic lighter to lift them closer to the surface and then sanded what remained with 220 grit sandpaper and the sanding sponges.IMG_2218Taking a cue from Al Jones I made a plastic washer to put between the shank and the stem to make the sanding of the saddle simpler. I could sand right up to the edge without damaging the end of the stem and rounding the edges.IMG_2219 IMG_2220 IMG_2221I sanded the stem with my usual array of micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12,000 grit pads. Between each set of three pads I rubbed down the stem with Obsidian Oil before moving on to the next set of three. When I had finished with the 12,000 grit pad I took the pipe to the buffer and buffed the stem with White Diamond.IMG_2222 IMG_2223 IMG_2224I lightly buffed the bowl and the stem once again with the White Diamond and then used Halcyon II wax on the bowl and carnauba on the stem. I hand buffed the pipe with a shoe brush and raised the shine. The finished pipe is shown below. I am looking forward to loading an aged bowl of McClellands 5100 and having the inaugural smoke in this beauty.IMG_2225IMG_2226IMG_2227IMG_2228

Restoring a Yello-Bole Imperial Bulldog for John


Blog by Steve Laug

The last of John’s pipes that I worked on while he was working on the Danish Sovereign Peewit was a beautiful old Yello-Bole Bulldog. It was stamped KBB in a cloverleaf on the left side of the shank next to four lines of stamping. The first read Yello-Bole and underneath that was stamped Cured with Real Honey and an R in a circle. The third line read Imperial in script and the fourth read Imported Briar. The stem had a push tenon and had the yellow circle inset in the vulcanite. It is shown in the photo below – it is the last pipe in the column on the left side of the photo.IMG_2050 This pipe actually was one of the free ones that came with the pipe rack that John purchased. It was sitting on the rack without a stem. The stem was inside the humidor jar. I had seen it before and had assumed that the tenon was broken but it was not. It was just very loose and would not stay in the shank. The metal spacer that separates the shank and stem was attached to the stem and not to the bowl. The bowl itself was very dirty and caked. The finish was not too bad and there were no deep dents of scratches in the briar just some ground in grime. The rim was caked with a thick buildup of tars and oils that had almost fossilized. The stem was in good shape other than being oxidized. There was tooth chatter on the top and underside of the stem.

I used cotton swabs, pipe cleaners and isopropyl alcohol to clean out the bowl, shank and the inside of the stem. I worked them until them came out white. I scrubbed the aluminum space with alcohol and then with a metal polishing cloth to bring back the original shine.IMG_2088 IMG_2089 IMG_2090 IMG_2091 I wiped down the briar with acetone on cotton pads to remove the grime from the finish of the bowl and the grain underneath really popped.IMG_2092 IMG_2093 The rim buildup was so hard that I used the topping board and sandpaper to remove it and lightly sand the rim surface itself to remove the pitting. I sanded the outer edge with a folded piece of sandpaper to minimize the rough spots on the edge.IMG_2094 IMG_2095 I sanded the rim with a medium and a fine grit sanding sponge and then wet sanded it with 1500-2400 grit micromesh sanding pads. I touched up the rim with the stain pens until it matched the stain colour on the bowl. I then wiped down the pipe with some olive oil on a paper towel and let it soak into the finish.IMG_2098 IMG_2096 IMG_2097 I sanded the stem with 220 sandpaper to remove the tooth chatter and oxidation and then with a medium and fine grit sanding sponge. I wet sanded the stem with 1500-2400 grit micromesh sanding pads and dry sanded it with 3200-12,000 grit sanding pads. I rubbed it down with Obsidian Oil after each set of three pads. When I had finished with the sanding I buffed the stem with White Diamond. To make the stem snug in the shank I used a cotton swab and water to wet the mortise in the shank to swell the briar. This helped a lot and the stem was much tighter. It was still too loose to my liking so I ran clear superglue around the tenon and lightly sanded it to obtain a snug fit on the stem.IMG_2099 IMG_2100 IMG_2101I put the pipe together and buffed it with White Diamond. I gave it multiple coats of carnauba wax to seal and protect the stem and bowl. I buffed it with a soft flannel buff to get the shine. The finished pipe is shown below and is yet another clean and ready pipe for John to load and smoke. I look forward to hearing what he thinks of the smoking characteristics of this old timer. It turned out to be a beautiful pipe with nice looking mixed grain. The old vulcanite was interesting to me in that it had pieces of metal that were part of the casting of the stem. I remember reading somewhere that these occurred in stems that were made during the war years when rubber was at a premium. To my thinking that helps to date this bulldog to the late 1940s or early 1950s. Enjoy your “new” pipe John and be sure to let us know how it smokes for you.IMG_2102 IMG_2103 IMG_2104 IMG_2105