Tag Archives: Savinelli Roma Pipes

Returning Some Vigour to a Savinelli Roma 904 KS


by Kenneth Lieblich

Here’s a handsome Savinelli Roma 904 KS sandblast that was part of a large lot that I recently acquired. It is a shape that Savinelli calls a ‘half bent Dublin’, but – with all due respect – this is a Zulu in my book! It’s a good-looking pipe with a great sandblast and promises to be a great smoker. The rim is smooth with beautiful grain on it and the saddle stem is made of vulcanite. This is a perfect example of a pipe that got better and better in my eyes as I worked on it. I hope you will like it too. Take a look…

The markings on the pipe are clear and readable. On the underside of the shank is the word Roma (with the R inside a shield). To the right is the Savinelli coat of arms, showing a stylized ‘S’ on a shield, topped by two pipes. Next to this are the marks 904 KS [over] Italy. Naturally, the number refers to the shape – a Zulu (I’m going to die on that hill) – and the three digits tell us that the pipe dates from the 1970s or later. The KS stands for ‘King Size’, and that corresponds to sizes 3.5–4.

Savinelli is one of the most recognized names in pipe smoking and they have a long and storied history. You can read about them from their own website or from Pipedia’s article about them. You can see our particular shape on the chart below, in the lower right-hand corner.

Let’s look at the pipe. All-in-all, it looks pretty good. It was obviously a favourite smoker, given how dirty it is. The stem is dirty, oxidized, and calcified. There are some tooth marks and scratches. The bowl is dirty dirty dirty! There’s lava on the rim, cake on the bowl, and dust ground into the sandblast. I have my work cut out for me!

I used isopropyl alcohol on a few cotton rounds and wiped down the stem to provide an initial cleaning of filth before moving on to the next steps. The primary cleaning came next. I disinfected the inside of the stem with both pipe cleaners and cotton swabs dipped in lemon-infused 99% isopropyl alcohol. I scrubbed thoroughly to make sure the interior was very clean.

The goal of the next step is the removal (or minimization) of oxidation. Going to my sink, I used cream cleanser, cotton rounds, and a toothbrush, and scoured the stem to remove as much surface oxidation as possible. As the photos show, the result was a hideous, ochre-coloured mess – but better off the stem than on it.

Once the stem was reasonably clean, I soaked it overnight in some Briarville Stem Oxidation Remover. This solution works to draw oxidation in the stem to the surface of the vulcanite. This is a major aid and an important step in ensuring a clean stem. The following day, I drew out the stem from its bath and scrubbed the lingering fluid with a toothbrush.

As the stem was now clean and dry, I set about fixing the marks and dents in the vulcanite. This was done by filling those divots with black cyanoacrylate adhesive, impregnated with carbon and rubber. I left this to cure and moved on.

The penultimate step for the stem is sanding. First, with my set of needle files, I reduced the bulk of the cyanoacrylate repairs. I removed the excess adhesive as near to the surface as possible, without cutting into the vulcanite. Following that, I used all nine of the micromesh sanding pads (1,500 through 12,000 grit) to sand out flaws, even out the vulcanite, and provide gentle polishing of the finished surface. I also applied pipe-stem oil while using the last five micromesh pads. There was a wonderful, deep black shine to the stem when I was done.

As the stem was (nearly) complete, I moved on to the stummel. The first step was to ream out the bowl – that is to say, remove all the cake inside the bowl. This accomplished a couple of things. First (and most obviously), it cleaned the bowl and provided a refurbished chamber for future smoking. Second, when the old cake was removed, I could inspect the interior walls of the bowl and determine if there was damage or not. I used a reamer, a pipe knife, and a piece of sandpaper taped to a wooden dowel. Collectively, these ensured that all the debris was removed.

The inside of the stummel needed to be cleaned thoroughly. However, this pipe was so clogged, that I first needed to open the horribly occluded airway. So, I took a long drill bit, held in a drill chuck, and hand-cranked it to dislodge the dreadful detritus inside. Hand cranking is essential because it provides a precision and caution that a power drill cannot provide.

Similar to the stem, I then cleaned the stummel with both pipe cleaners and cotton swabs dipped in lemon-infused 99% isopropyl alcohol. With a pipe this dirty, it took quite a while and much cotton to clean.

I then decided to ‘de-ghost’ the pipe – that is to say, exorcize the remaining filth from the briar. I filled the bowl and the shank with cotton balls, then saturated them with 99% isopropyl alcohol. I let the stummel sit overnight. This caused the remaining oils, tars and smells to leach out into the cotton.

My next step was to remove the lava on the rim. For this, I took a piece of machine steel and gently scraped the lava away. The metal’s edge is sharp enough to remove what I need, but not so sharp that it damages the rim. To tidy up the briar, I wiped down the outside, using a solution of a pH-neutral detergent and some distilled water, with cotton rounds. I also used a toothbrush in the crevices. This did a good job of cleaning any latent dirt on the surface of the briar. The last step of the cleaning process was to scour the inside of the stummel with the same mild detergent and tube brushes. This was the culmination of a lot of hard work in getting the pipe clean.

I rubbed some LBE Before & After Restoration Balm into the briar and let it sit for 30 minutes or so. The balm moisturizes the wood and gives a beautiful depth to the briar. I then buffed the stummel with a microfibre cloth.

For the final step, I took the pipe to my bench polisher and carefully buffed it – first the stem with a blue diamond compound, then the stummel with some conservator’s wax. This procedure makes the pipe look its best – the stummel is quite dapper and the stem is just splendid.

All done! This Savinelli Roma 904 KS half-bent Dublin (or, Zulu, as I call it) looks fantastic again and is ready to be enjoyed by its next owner. I am pleased to announce that this pipe is for sale! If you are interested in acquiring it for your collection, please have a look in the ‘Italian’ section of the store here on Steve’s website. You can also email me directly at kenneth@knightsofthepipe.com. The approximate dimensions of the pipe are as follows: length 6⅛ in. (156 mm); height 1⅞ in. (48 mm); bowl diameter 1½ in. (39 mm); chamber diameter ¾ in. (20 mm). The weight of the pipe is 1½ oz. (44 g). I hope you enjoyed reading the story of this pipe’s restoration as much as I enjoyed restoring it. If you are interested in more of my work, please follow me here on Steve’s website or send me an email. Thank you very much for reading and, as always, I welcome and encourage your comments.

Another Resurrection – a Savinelli Roma Lucite 412KS Billiard


by Steve Laug

The next pipe came from Curtis, the same pipeman whose Neerup pipe I restemmed. He sent me the two pipes for work. This one is stamped on a smooth panel on the underside of the shank. It was stamped Savinelli [over] Roma Lucite [followed by] Made In [over] Italy [followed by] the shape number 412 KS. It was a sandblast pipe with an interesting blast that showed the grain around the bowl and shank. The stem was a variegated orange/brown Lucite taper with a brass spacer at the end of the stem and a gold R Shield on the left side of the shank. The stem had light tooth chatter on the top and underside ahead of the button. It had a thick cake in the bowl and an overflow of lava on the rim top. To me those are easily dealt with and really are not an issue. What was an issue was the cracked shank. It cracked ¾ of an inch up the shank with a clean break. It was too far up the shank to band it to hold the parts together. It was a mess that I would need to be creative to fix. I left it over night to see if I could sort out a repair of some sort that would put the pieces back together again. I had some brass tubing that would work well in the shank together from the inside.I cut a piece of brass tubing that fit from the entry of the airway in the shank, across the cracked shank and ending at the bevel on the shank end. My thoughts on it were that I would reduce the size of the tenon on the stem so it would slide into the shank. It was thick enough that the thinning would not make it weak. I used a brass bristle wire brush to roughen the area of the repair on the shank to match the sandblast on the finish. It was close but I would need to do more. I found a deep set band that once in place combined with the internal tube should protect the shank. I pressed it on the shank. I worked over the repair on the shank with the wire brush and an etching tool. I wanted it to match the rest of the shank and bowl finish. It will look good once the section is restain. I restained the shank end with a combination of Mahogany and Black stain pens. Once it dried I buffed it with a soft cloth and the repair looked very good. I reamed the pipe with a PipNet pipe reamer using the second and third cutting heads to remove the thick cake in the bowl. I scraped the bowl with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife to remove the remainder of the cake in the bowl. I sanded the bowl with a piece of dowel wrapped in 220 grit sandpaper. It looked good. I cleaned up the rim top. I scraped off the lava coat with the Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. I scrubbed it with some warm water and a paper towel to remove the bulk of the grime. I used a 1500 grit micromesh sanding pad to polish off the remainder of the grim and the rim top look significantly better. I scrubbed the airway in the shank and the stem with pipe cleaners – both regular and bristle one and isopropyl alcohol.I rubbed the briar down with Before and After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the finish with my fingertips and let it sit for 10 minutes to let it do its magic. After that I buffed it off with a soft cltoh to polish and raise the shine on the bowl. It looks very good. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I polished out the tooth marks and chatter with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch sanding pads. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with an obsidian Oil soaked cloth. It is looking good.I polished the stem with 1500-12000 grit micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with each pad. I wiped it down with the Obsidian Oil after each pad. I finished polishing the stem with Before and After Pipe Stem Polish both Fine and Extra Fine polishes. I polished it with each polish and the stem began to have a rich glow. I am excited to be on the homestretch and look forward to seeing the Savinelli Roma Lucite 412KS Billiard put back together, polished and waxed. I put the bowl and stem back together and lightly polished the bowl and stem with Blue Diamond to polish them. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe on the wheel with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The depths of the grain really pop with the wax and polish. The polished variegated Brown Lucite stem is a beautiful contrast to the combination of stains on the bowl and shank. This Savinelli Roma Lucite Billiard was a lot of work to bring back to life. The pipe is light weight, comfortable in the hand and should feel great as it is warmed up when smoking. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 6 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ½ inches, Chamber diameter: 7/8 of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.45 ounces/41 grams. I will be packing this one up with restemmed Neerup and getting them in the post to Curtis. I look forward to hearing from him regarding his two pipes.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.