This is one of Alex’s pipes and one that I have admired for a while. Bjarne pipes are well made and a pleasure to smoke. This particular pipe has some amazing grain on the right side, shank and front and back. The left side has a large bald spot with no grain to speak of that pretty much covered the entirety of the left side. Alex wanted me to try to come up with some kind of rustication pattern that would highlight the character of the bowl and add to that rather than change it. I took photos of the pipe from around the sides and the top and bottom of the bowl. It is a short pipe with a full sized bowl. The shank looks long and the stem is short and stubby but very comfortable. Have a look.I did a bit of research on some of the other carvers and how they used spot rustication to give character to a bowl. I found a great looking pipe by Winslow that used the same idea as I was thinking and sent it to Alex. He was good with the concept so I was good to go. However, I am always very slow to change someone’s pipe as it is generally not possible to make it like it was before! I spent a few months really thinking about it and looking at the Winslow and looking at the Bjarne and then putting the pipe aside and doing other things. I have included the photo of the Winslow below for comparison sake so you can see where I was heading with the rustication.I finally decided to give it a go this afternoon before supper. Sometimes I mark the portion of the pipe with a line or tape to give definition to the area I want to rusticate. But today I decided just to go with the flow and chase the grain around the edges of the bald spot. I have a rustication tool that a friend of rebornpipes made for me. It has a great ball handle and a cluster of hardened nails set in the head and kept from flexing by a hose clamp. I worked over the area of the bowl with that to get the rustication started.I used a Dremel and some burrs to cut a groove around the rusticated portion of the bowl similar to the way that Winslow did. I also knocked off the high spots on the rustication with both burrs and reworked areas that were not even. I used a medium grit sanding sponge to smooth out the high spots a bit and then stained the rusticated portion with black aniline stain. I applied it and flamed it with a lighter to set is in the stain. I buffed the bowl with red Tripoli to smooth out the high spots on the surface. I took photos of the pipe at this point in the process. I still had some more sanding and polishing the surface of the rustication but the basic form is taking shape.I used a sanding sponge to smooth out the high spots a bit more. I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the briar with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect it. I let the balm sit for a little while and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine.I buffed the bowl with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel and rubbed some Conservator’s Wax into the rustication of the left side of the bowl. I buffed the rest of the pipe with carnauba wax and gave the pipe a clean buff. I hand buffed it with a clean cotton pad to raise the shine. The finished rustication on the pipe is shown in the photo below. It is a nice looking pipe. Thanks for your time.
The next pipe in the queue is another one that Alex dropped off for me to work on for him – another Schoenleber Hand Made. This one is a straight shank Opera pipe with an oval bowl and a mix of different grain around the sides and shank. Someone had given the dirty pipe a coat of varnish or shellac to give it a shine but in doing so put the coating over the grim on the rim and the bowl sides. The carver once again did a great job utilizing the block of briar to maximize the grain. The pipe is stamped on the left side of the shank and reads Schoenleber over Hand Made. On the right side of the shank it is stamped with a number 4 which is either a shape number or size designation. The taper stem is vulcanite and has a single small coral dot on the top side. I think that this will be another nice looking piece once it is cleaned up. The bowl is thickly caked with a thick overflow of lava on the rim top. The top and edges of the bowl are damaged and chipped and what was once a bevel has been almost ruined. The exterior of the briar was dirty with grime and dust. The stem has light tooth marks and chatter on both sides. It is lightly oxidized and dirty. I took photos of the pipe before my cleanup work They tell the story and give a glimpse of the promise that I see in this pipe.I took a photo of the rim top to show the thick cake in the bowl, the damage to the rim top and inner edge. The stem was a very good fit to the shank. It was oxidized, calcified and had debris stuck to the surface of the vulcanite. It also shows the tooth marks on the stem and on the button surface. I took photos of the sides of the shank to show the stamping. The stamping is faint but readable in the photos below and is as noted above – on the left side it reads Schoenleber Hand Made and on the right side it is stamped with the number 4 at the shank/bowl junction. The stem has a coral dot on the top of the taper.When I worked on a Schoenleber pipe for Alex in the past I had done the research on the brand. I knew that the pipe had been made for a shop in New Jersey but went back and reread the previous blog I had written on the brand. I have included the information from Pipedia that I included before. I quote the article in full (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Schoenleber).
Louis Schoenleber lived in North Arlington N.J. and was an Austrian immigrant and skilled artisan in pipe making. His hand carved pipes were available in his shop, ‘Schoenleber’s Newark Pipe Shop’, at 26 Branford Pl., Newark NJ, thought to open in the 1920’s. Schoenleber’s carried a full line of tobaccos as well as related pipe smoking accessories. It’s thought the shop operated until the late 1960’s, and Louis Schoenleber died in 1976. It’s also fairly certain they may have sold to other brands such as Jelling, also in Newark and are very similar in design and finish.
There was also an advertising card on the site that I have included below. It speaks to my assumptions about the curing process and the finishing process on the pipe. It also connects the pipe to Schoenleber’s Newark Pipe Shop in Newark, N.J. It also has a comment on the fact that pipes were made to order.I have to tell you I am spoiled with having Jeff do all the heavy clean up work on pipes. I almost forgot that on this one and started to work on the finish. I stopped myself when I realized I was working with a dirty pipe. I reamed the pipe with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife because of the oval bowl. It is a difficult reaming because of that so it takes more time to take the cake back to bare briar.I wiped the bowl exterior down with alcohol on paper towels to remove the grime and then scrubbed the interior of the bowl shank and stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol to remove the tars and oils.I turned my attention to the deep gouges on the heel of the bowl. I filled them in with clear super glue and when that repairs cured I sanded them smooth with 220 grit sandpaper and started polishing the areas with 400 grit wet dry sandpaper.I dealt with the damage to the rim top with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to clean up the damages and reshape the top and inner edge bevel. I forgot to take a photo of it after the clean up so I have included a photo from after I polished it with micromesh.I polished the briar with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I worked over the rim top and edge of the bowl with the pads. I wiped the bowl down with a damp cloth after each pad to remove the sanding debris.I used a Maple Stain pen to touch up the area around the repair on the left side, heel and the inner edge of the rim.I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the briar with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect it. I let the balm sit for a little while and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine.I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I sanded it with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the oxidation and tooth chatter on both sides of the stem. I started the polishing of the surface with 400 grit wet dry sandpaper. I rubbed the stem down with Denicare Mouthpiece Polish – a red, gritty Tripoli like substance that is a paste. I rubbed it into the surface of the stem and polished it off with a cotton pad. I have found that is a great intermediary step before polishing with micromesh pads. I am not sure what I will use once the final tin I have is gone! I polished the vulcanite with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad. I used Before & After Pipe Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine to further polish the stem. With both parts of the Schoenleber Opera Pipe finished, I polished the bowl and the stem with Blue Diamond polish on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The pipe polished up pretty nicely. The rich oil cured finish and the grain came alive with the buffing. The finish on the briar works well with the polished black vulcanite stem. The finished pipe is a well-proportioned, nicely grained Schoenleber Opera. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 ¼ inches, Height: 1 ½ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 inch wide x 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: 5/8 of an inch wide x 1inch long. This Schoenleber Hand Made Straight Opera will be going back to Alex shortly. I cannot wait to hear what he thinks of it. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me on this older American Made pipe.