Restoring a 1935 Dunhill Shell – Andrew Selking


Blog by Andrew Selking

This is my second Dunhill Shell, but like everything it has been a learning experience. I saw this orphan about to expire on eBay without a single bid. As they say, a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing. I knew that it was a desirable patent-era Shell and from the markings it was made in 1935. I should have taken the time to look at a Dunhill shape chart, this pipe had been seriously topped. The good news is, I didn’t pay too much for it and it’s a handy little pipe, 4 15/16 inches long and .7 of an ounce! No wonder the stem didn’t have any tooth marks.

So here’s what the pipe looked like before the restoration.Dun1

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Dun3 The one thing that I really like about the Dunhill Shell pipes is the finish. The combination of deep reddish brown and darker brown/black is very pleasing to look at. That is why I treat rough finish pipes (rusticated, blast, fine line) differently than smooth finish pipes. I took a tip from Steve and use Murphy’s Oil Soap, which is made from vegetable oils and specifically formulated for wood. I took a small amount of the soap and applied it directly with a toothbrush.Dun4

Dun5 As you can see the Murphy’s Oil Soap did remove some of the finish, but not nearly as much as the alcohol bath would have. The soap also removed the decades of accumulated grime. If you don’t take care to clean the outside of the pipe no amount of wax will make it shine.Dun6

Dun7 My next step was to start the stem soaking in Oxyclean and soak the bowl with denatured alcohol. I packed the bowl with cotton balls, plugged the shank with some rolled up paper towel, and used an eye dropper to soak the cotton.Dun8 After the cake loosened up, I reamed the bowl. This bowl is huge, I used my two largest reaming heads to clean it out.Instead of doing the retort multiple times, I used q-tips dipped in denatured alcohol followed by pipe cleaners. (I don’t technically use pipe cleaners. I use “fuzzy sticks”. That’s the innocuous name given to pipe cleaners used for crafts.) To maximize each cleaner, I used scissors to cut the dirty section off. As you can see I ended up with a decent size pile of q-tips and fuzzy sticks.Dun12 Next I turned my attention to the stem. I did the retort first, then used pipe cleaners to finish the job. Fortunately since the stem is so short, it didn’t take long to clean. You will notice that I packed some paper towel into the end of the stem. Occasionally when you use the retort, the alcohol will boil over and spray everywhere. That does not endear you or your eccentric hobbies to your significant other, especially when the resulting mess makes the wall look like a Jackson Pollock painting.Dun13

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Dun15 I usually take extra time on stems as nice as this one. Instead of using 400 grit wet/dry I started out with 1000 grit wet/dry and water. It takes longer, but the last thing I want to do is change the profile of the stem or damage any of the details by using a lower grit sand paper. After the 1000 grit I used 1500-2400 grit micro mesh pads with water.Dun16 While the stem dried, I began the staining/waxing process. In an attempt to replicate the Dunhill finish, I used the brown shoe polish followed by a thin layer of black shoe polish. The heat gun helps melt the wax so that it gets into all of the crevices and the brush brings out a nice shine.Dun17

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Dun19 Here is what the bowl looked like after the application of the second coat of wax and buffing with the brush.Dun20

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Dun23 Since shoe polish is a soft wax, I protect all of my rough finish pips with Halcyon II wax. I applied the wax with my finger tip (a little goes a long way) and let it dry for about 10 minutes. After the wax dried, I buffed it out with a soft cloth and applied a second coat. (The pipe cleaner is so I can hang the bowl up to dry.)Dun24 Finally I finished sanding the stem, using a progression of micro mesh pads from 3200-12000 grit followed by a quick spin on the buffing wheel with some carnauba wax.Dun25 Here is the finished pipe.Dun26

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16 thoughts on “Restoring a 1935 Dunhill Shell – Andrew Selking

  1. Tim Lomprey's avatarTim Lomprey

    Stupid question…….Did you rinse the pipe with water after the Murphy’s Oil or ???? to remove the soap residue. I have two old briars I’m going to practice on before restoring a 1930 Double Patent Shell.

    I really enjoy your blog. Thank you.

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    1. rebornpipes's avatarrebornpipes Post author

      Welcome Tim, good to have you here. I don’t know if Andrew rinses the soap with water but I do when I clean with murphy’s. I put a thumb in the bowl and a finger over the shank and rinse the soap off quickly. I pat it dry with a soft towel.

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      1. Andrew's avatarAndrew

        Steve,

        I forgot to mention that yes I do rinse the pipe with water after using the Murphy’s Oil. I try not to keep it under the water too long and like you, I put my thumb over the bowl.

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  2. ReserectedPipes's avatarReserectedPipes

    Steve, Nice work again!! The shoe polish started to throw me some till I thought about what would have been available in 1935. Real nice finish at the end. Some of the old pipes have a “worn out” look and that may be because of the wax (polish) used instead of dye and not being re-waxed. Curious about your thoughts.

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    1. rebornpipes's avatarrebornpipes Post author

      Good thinking on that John, I wonder about it as well. It is time for more experiments for me… It makes sense to use the wax and colour combo.

      Andrew is working this angle well and I am curious as to durability.

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    2. Andrew's avatarAndrew

      John,
      I’ve used shoe polish for all of my pipes. The secret to longevity for the finish is the hard wax afterwards. Halcyon II is harder than carnauba, which is no slouch either.

      Andrew

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        1. Andrew's avatarAndrew

          Just think about what the oils from your hand does to a smooth finish pipe over time. I think the rough finish pipes just have more crevices and are not as easy to wipe clean.

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