Tag Archives: Savinelli Pipes

Restemming a Beautiful Savinelli Classica 812 Canadian


Blog by Steve Laug
Class1In the pipes that my brother Jeff sent me from his Montana find was a pair of Savinelli made 812 shape pipes. The first is the second pipe down from the top in the picture to the left. That pipe is stamped Citation 812 and made in Italy on the underside of the shank. The stem is a refit and is poorly done. Fortunately it is beat up and missing a large chunk on the underside near the button. The second one is shown in the picture in the second column and is a sandblast without a stem. It is stamped Savinelli Classica with the Savinelli shield and 812 Italy on the underside of the shank. The first is a two toned dark brown and the second is a lighter two toned medium brown.

The pipe I chose to work on first was the Savinelli Classica – the stemless one. It was in pretty decent shape. The finish was dirty but was not worn. It had a great sandblast. The left side of the bowl had a circular grain pattern and the right side was blasted birdseye. The shank had long swirls on the top and sides. The rim had some build up on it and the bowl had a thick cake that plugged the airway and closed off the lower portion of the bowl.

I took a photo of the two pipes together to show the similarities and the differences. The Classica is a bit shorter in terms of shank length and the finish is much more distinctive. The Citation had a nice blast on it but when compared with the Classica it had nothing to compare. Both pipes were the same height. The bowls were the same diameter and the mortise of both held the broken stem with no trouble.

I looked up the Savinelli 812 shape online and found that it originally had a taper stem and that the stem had a slight bend in it at the button. I am not sure if I like the look of it on the Canadian but will think about it as I restore the Classica.Class2 I took the next photos of the bowl to show the distinctive sandblast on the bowl. It truly is a beautiful piece of work. The way the bowl was stain highlighted and emphasized the blast rather than muted it. Once I cleaned it up I would need to maintain that look.Class3

Class4 The next two photos show the grain on the shank and the tar buildup on the rim. I am pretty sure that the blast is underneath the tars and will look good once it is scraped off. The third photo shows the underside of the shank and the smooth portion that bears the stamping.Class5

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Class7 I went through my stem can and found the candidate for the tapered Canadian stem for this pipe. I used the PIMO tenon turning tool to take down the tenon to the point that it almost fit the shank. I hand sanded it with 220 grit sandpaper to bring it to the correct size. I did not want to crack the shank so I went slowly, checking for the fit often.Class8 Once the stem was in place I took some photos to show the excess in diameter on the top and sides and the shaping that would need to be done to get a good match to the shank.Class9

Class10 I rough shaped the stem fit with a sanding drum on a Dremel to get it close to the shape of the shank. I have found that if I move slowly and carefully with the Dremel it saves a ton of hand sanding on the stems. Once I had it rough shaped I did the rest of the shaping by hand.Class11

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Class14 I fine tuned the shape with 220 grit sandpaper and brought it to a smooth transition between the shank and the stem all the way around. I worked on the button area and cleaned up the castings and marks on the slot and the button edges with the sandpaper.Class15

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Class18 With the new stem fitting and only needing more fine tuning and polishing I decided to ream the bowl and work on the rim. I used a PipNet reamer and a KLEENREEM reamer and a pen knife to cut away the cake in the bowl. It was as hard as the cake in the other two bowls that my brother sent me.Class19

Class20 I scrubbed the sandblast with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush and the caked rim with the soap and a brass bristle tire brush.Class21 Once the grime was scrubbed off I rinsed the bowl in warm running water and cleaned out the brushes. I dried off the bowl with a towel.Class22

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Class25 I cleaned out the shank with pipe cleaners, alcohol and cotton swabs. It was plugged in the airway to the bowl so I used the drill bit on the KLEENREEM tool and was able to clear out the gunk in the airway and open it up all the way to the bowl.Class26 I wanted to keep the contrast stain on the pipe and not restain it so I gave it a light coat of olive oil to bring life back to the wood. I have found that dry briar absorbs the oil quite quickly and that the oil gives it some colour and life back without masking the original stain.Class27

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Class30 I wiped the bowl down and rubbed it vigorously with a clean soft towel to remove any of the surface oil and to give it an initial buff. I went to work fine tuning the stem fit. I used micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and rubbing the stem down with Obsidian Oil. I dry sanded with 3200-400 grit pads. I gave it another coat of oil and finished sanding with 6000-12000 grit pads. I gave it a final coat of Obsidian Oil and let it dry.Class31

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Class33 I buffed the stem and lightly buffed the bowl with Blue Diamond and then gave the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I hand buffed the bowl with Conservators Wax and a small shoe brush to bring out a shine to sand blast finish. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. The straight new stem works for me. The pipe is once again a work of beauty. Thanks for looking.Class34

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Reviving a Savinelli Silver 806


Blog by Dave Gossett
Dave1 My Army cousin stationed in Italy came to the states recently bearing gifts. He bought me 9 pipes at a swap meet in Vencenza – 5 Savinelli’s, 2 Brebbia’s, 1 Rossi, and 1 lesser known Italian briar. I’m a sucker for silver bands, long shanks, and Sav’s, so naturally this is the first one out of the batch I cleaned up.

This one had not been “smoked lightly” as the saying goes. The rim was beat up, the stummel had plenty of scratches, and the stem had a hefty chunk missing.Dave2

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Dave4 I started out by reaming and cleaning the airways. Then I topped the bowl and beveled it, and sanded the scratches from the exterior.Dave5 After removing the damage from the stummel, I gave it a light alcohol scrub to remove the rest of the stain.

I gave it a dark contrast stain starting with Fiebings dark brown and a hint of oxblood, then after drying for 24 hours I sanded it to lighten it up and make the grain pop. A cloth dampened with alcohol can be used around the stampings to lighten the stain a bit without compromising the nomenclature.

Next up, the stem. I removed the oxidation and scored the area around the repair site. Patched up the missing vulcanite with CA and charcoal, then filed it down and wet sanded smooth, followed by a light run on the wheel with compound.Dave6 I’ve already put a few bowls of Syrian Reserve through it since the pictures were taken. Great smoker. This one’s a keeper.Dave7

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A Savinelli Catalogue Smuggled from Argentina by a Pipe Patriot


Guest Blog by Robert M. Boughton
Member, North American Society of Pipe Collectors
http://www.naspc.org
http://www.roadrunnerpipes.com
http://about.me/boughtonrobert
Photos Provided by Gustavo Capozzi

“The original is unfaithful to the translation.” ― Jorge Francisco Isidoro Luis Borges, KBE(1889-1986), Argentine short story writer, essayist, poet, translator and Knight of the British Empire, regarding Henley’s translation of Beckford’s “Vathek” [1943]

I noticed fairly frequent comments from a certain Argentine member of the Smokers Forums on various threads of mine as well as others, but his note on my most recent post about the restoration of a Savinelli Panama Bent Bulldog #111 KS was – in particular because of the broken English that seemed to me even more apropos to his meaning – eloquent and moving. The member, whose real name I now know is Gustavo Capozzi, referred to a comment I made, that I never bought a Savinelli I didn’t like, when he wrote:

“Robert I agree with you. When I´m a young boy, looked through the window the Savinelli pipes, and as people with money buy.In my student days had only national pipes and an Albanian as ‘imported’.I have a catalog Savinelli of that time where I enjoyed. Even today I could not get some. Congratulations!”

Concluding from the message that he has never owned a Savinelli, I experienced a series of vivid mental images of the young Gustavo growing into manhood, saving the cherished Savinelli catalogue and never being able to afford one or, now, to find the fine Italian brand anywhere in his native country because of governmental commercial import regulations. To be open to the point of risking sounding mushy, I was very touched. And the final word of congratulations to my good fortune added a sense of downright guilt.

In a private message to him on the Forums, I suggested that our host, Steve, would likely be quite interested in the catalogue, which Sr. Capozzi agreed to photograph and email. In fact, he replied that he had already done so, with such speed that I was further struck by his deep love of Savinellis. However, in a case of miscommunication, I believed he had sent the photos to Steve. Eager to know that they were received, Sr. Capozzi wrote to me again, and I contacted Steve, who responded that he had no such email. When I relayed this news to him, he dashed back the frantic note, “emails were sent to you!!!!!!”

With a rising sickness in my stomach, I searched my email, not finding anything. Then I found all but the first batch in the WRONG Junk Mail folder (only with MS Office, I know) and hastened to alleviate Sr. Capozzi’s clear agitation. He shot back the first eight photos.

As a final note before posting the catalogue, I will just add that Sr. Capozzi and I turned out to be mutual fans of the great Argentine writer Jorge Luis Borges, whose quote above seemed fitting to the means of my new friend’s photo translation of the catalogue for our enjoyment and learning…and how much there is to learn from this marvelous catalogue is astonishing: pipe lines, shape charts, dry system pipes, filter dry systems, accessories and even “suggestions.”Sav1 Sav2 Sav3 Sav4 Sav5 Sav6 Sav7 Sav8 Sav9 Sav10 Sav11 Sav12 Sav13 Sav14 Sav15 Sav16 Sav17 Sav18 Sav19 Sav20 Sav21 Sav22 Sav23 Sav24 Sav25 Sav26 Sav27 Sav28 Sav29 Sav30 Sav31 Sav32 Sav33 Sav34 Sav35 Sav36 Sav37 Sav38 Sav39 Sav40 Sav41 Sav42 Sav43 Sav44 There happens to be one particular Savinelli in my possession that I have good reason to suspect would make an excellent first for him, if I can find a way to clear Argentina’s red tape. And, of course, provided Sr. Capozzi will give me his address.

A Savinelli de Luxe Milano 431KS Reborn Twice – PART 1: reshaping a broken stem.


Blog by Steve Laug

You will see by the end of this blog why I say the pipe was reborn twice. Suffice it to say in this opening paragraph that a near pipe repair tragedy occurred when I had all but finished the first rebirth.When I picked up the pipe it was one of two that I found while on a pipe hunt in Bellingham, Washington with a friend. The other pipe was a Custom Bilt that I have already blogged about. The grain on this pipe attracted my attention and made me want to see what I could do with it.Sav When I brought the pipe to the work table most of the issues were with the stem. The bowl had originally had a natural finish so it was dirty but not stained. There was no finish on it or varnish that needed to be removed so the clean up would be quite simple. The rim was caked with a thick tar and oil buildup that was shiny and hard. The bowl had a cake of the same material and had the sweet smell of an aromatic – lots of vanilla. The main issue with the stem was twofold. The top surface of the stem from the button up the stem about 1 inch there were many dents and bite marks. The underside of the stem had a large piece of vulcanite missing from the stem and the airway had been clamped down by biting. It also was oxidized and calcified. The fit against the shank was fairly decent with a slight gap on the left side, top and bottom at the shank.Sav1

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Sav4 The next two close up photos of the stem show the damage to the top and bottom side of the surface next to the button. The underside is the most damaged with a huge chunk missing. The second photo shows the top of the stem with the many tooth marks and bumps that created a thin surface on the top of the stem.Sav5

Sav6 I took the next photo to show the rim. All edges are intact but the surface is coated with a thick, hard coat of oils and tar.Sav7 The tenon had an inner tube insert in it. I have had several of these Savinellis but never had one with the tube. It would turn out to come in handy later.Sav8 I weighed my options with the stem for several days before I decided to cut off the damaged portion of the stem. I used my Dremel with a sanding drum and took the stem back to solid material.Sav9

Sav10 The next four photos show the look of the pipe with the shorter stem. Personally I like the more compact look of the stem as it seems to fit proportionally well with the pipe.Sav11

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Sav14 I decided to work on the button on the pipe before turning to the bowl. You can see from the photo below that the underside of the area where I would cut the button was quite thin. I did not want to cut back the stem any further so I built up that area with black super glue. I applied the glue and set the stem aside to cure. It would take several coats before the button was built up.Sav15

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Sav17 While the glue cured and hardened I worked on the bowl. I reamed it with a PipNet reamer starting with the smallest cutting head and working up to a head that would cut back the cake to bare briar.Sav18

Sav19 With the bowl reamed back I could tackle the top of the bowl. Even using the reamer did not chip or crack the buildup on the top of the rim. It was like rock. I scrubbed the rim with oil soap and a tooth brush. I picked at it with a dental pick and was not able to break through the rock. I decided to lightly top the bowl to remove the buildup. The idea was not to remove any briar but merely to take of the rock hard tars on the rim. I used my topping board and 220 grit sandpaper and worked the rim carefully to ensure that I only took the rim down to briar. Once I broke through the rock I took several more turns on the sandpaper to finish up the rim.Sav20

Sav21 I scrubbed the bowl with acetone on cotton pads to remove the soiling and oils in the briar. It did not take much to bring the briar back to its natural state.Sav22

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Sav24 I decided to rub down the bowl with a light coat of olive oil to protect the briar and give it some life. I applied the oil with a paper towel and rubbed it in and rubbed it off. It also served to highlight the grain and make it stand out.Sav25

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Sav28 I cleaned out the shank with cotton swabs, pipe cleaners and isopropyl alcohol until they came out clean. For the amount of build up of tars and oils on the rim the shank was quite clean.Sav29 I decided to use a cotton ball and alcohol soak on the bowl to remove the sweet smells of the aromatics that had been smoked in the bowl. It had a thick vanilla smell that needed to go in my opinion. I set the stuffed bowl in an ice cube tray and used an ear syringe to fill it with alcohol. I let the bowl soak overnight to leach out the oils in the wood.Sav30

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Sav33 By the time I had finished setting up the bowl I called it a night and went to bed. The next morning I worked on cutting and shaping the new button on the stem. I used my usual knife blade file to make the initial cuts and shave back the slope of the stem.Sav34

Sav35 When I had the slope and look right I sanded the newly shaped button and stem with 220 grit sandpaper. I then repaired some of the low spots with clear super glue. I recut the button with the needle files and sanded it with 220 grit sandpaper to clean up the edges.Sav36

Sav37 With more sanding and shaping I had it where I wanted it and then sanded the stem with a medium and a fine grit sanding sponge to clean up the scratches in the vulcanite.Sav38

Sav39 With the button shaped in I worked on the slot in the airway. I used my usual three needle files – a flat oval, an oval and a round file to work on the slot. I always start with the flat oval and work to the round file.Sav40

Sav41 I used a folded piece of sandpaper to smooth out the inside of the slot.Sav42 At this point I worked some more on the surface of the button. It still was too rough to my liking. I sanded and filed it to reshape it. The next two photos show it before I worked it over with files and papers.Sav43

Sav44 Once I had the button shaped to my satisfaction I sanded it with micromesh sanding pads. I wet sanded with 1500-2400 grit pads, rubbed down with Obsidian Oil and then set it aside to dry. I was pleased with the overall effect of the new button and could not wait to finish polishing it. This is where I made the first mistake in this repair.Sav45

Sav46 Instead of leaving it on the work table and calling it a night I brought the pipe upstairs with me from the basement work area. I wanted to show the girls in my family the result of my work. I know that they are not that interested but they attempt to humour the old man. I stopped at the fridge to get some water and that is when the disaster struck. I could not believe it. The pipe simply slid through my fingers and hit the hardwood floor in our kitchen. I can’t tell you how many times that has happened with no issues. But this time there was going to be a major issue and it came with a vengeance. When it hit the floor, really only 2 feet as I was bending over, I heard the awful click and the stem and bowl separated. The tenon snapped at the shank.Sav47 All that work done and now what to do? I was sick with the thought of starting over. I carried the broken pipe down the stairs to the work table and left it in the dark and went to bed – just a tad frustrated. If you are interested in seeing what I did to try and redeem this disaster make sure to read Part Two of the work on this pipe.

Cleaning an Older Savinelli Duca Carlo Straight Billiard and Paying It Forward


Guest Blog by Robert M. Boughton
Member, North American Society of Pipe Collectors
http://www.naspc.org
http://www.roadrunnerpipes.com
http://about.me/boughtonrobert
Photos © the Author

“As you know, Shibumi has to do with great refinement underlying commonplace appearances. It is a statement so correct that it does not have to be bold, so poignant it does not have to be pretty, so true it does not have to be real. Shibumi is understanding, rather than knowledge. Eloquent silence. In demeanor, it is modesty without pudency. In art, where the spirit of shibumi takes the form of sabi, it is elegant simplicity, articulate brevity. In philosophy, where shibumi emerges as wabi, it is spiritual tranquility that is not passive; it is being without the angst of becoming.”
― Trevanian (Rodney William Whitaker, 1931-2005), U.S. film scholar and writer, in “Shibumi,” 1979

INTRODUCTION
Although Trevanian, in the well-turned quote above from one of his diverse novels (in this case a spy story), is far less sesquipedalian yet just as articulate as the late great jack of all trades, William F. Buckley Jr., I admit I had to resort to my Oxford English Dictionary to look up pudency. To save anyone reading this the trouble, if he might be inclined to do as I did, I will say the word is defined as susceptibility to the feeling of shame, or bashfulness. I made it through that stage long ago. The passage as a whole is apt to the understated grace, style, artistry and charm, combined with simplicity and humbleness, of this lovely Savinelli Duca Carlo Straight Billiard,relative to higher end Savinelli beauties and their prices.

The circumstances surrounding my chance and fleeting but thoroughly pleasant encounter with the alluring implement for fine tobacco enjoyment are also appropriate for this preface. Had I not sought refuge at my local tobacconist in a fluky and serendipitous urge the other day, I might never have met Al, a 25-year-old student who is pursuing both a master’s degree in his field of study and new pipe experiences. And, of course, I would not be writing this account of my rewarding experience cleaning the Duca Carlo.Duca1 When Al introduced himself to me by his full first name, Alfred, and moved with spontaneous purpose from where he was sitting to the cushioned chair next to mine, I had been distracted, in deep concentration, working on something on my laptop. In most cases when someone can see I’m working, and still tries to engage me in conversation, I become a bit piqued. But something was different about Al. So outgoing and affable was his personality that I really can’t even remember now what had been so important to me the moment before his appearance beside me.

Al spotted the rather large, black bag on the floor by my side, which was made for carrying tools but is now my run case. In case I ever need to run to my tobacconist, to get away from the mounting pressures that consume the rest of my life, I always have my run case with its selection of pipes and jars of tobaccos du jour. It should come as no surprise that I also keep a stock of provisions within the many pockets of the run case, from an extra Bic in the event my regular pipe lighter runs out of butane to a cheap pipe nail against the times when I misplace my three-in-one tool; pipe cleaners; balsa, 6mm and 9mm filters, for the most part to have on hand for others who like to use them; sandpaper and micromesh for refurbishing on the go; a small digital caliper, and a 120-inch cloth tape measure, should I ever run into the Titanic of pipes and need to determine its exact specs. Basically, everything the OCD pipe enjoyer and restorer might want without notice. Sometimes my fellow tobacco enthusiasts poke fun at me– more often than not the cigar smokers – seeing me coming through the door with my run case and laptop in either hand like a circle and crosshair marking me as a target. Being a good former Boy Scout, I always say be prepared.

At any rate, Al somehow got the idea that I was serious about pipes, and being new to the attendant rituals, he enquired what was in the bag.As I am rather free with my tobaccos, I began taking out the jars, looking for something appropriate for a newcomer. Mostly that day I found stronger, more advanced blends such as McClelland’s Top Hat and C&D Bayou Morning (with a whopping 28% Perique content), but I also had C&D Joie de Vivre and Rattray’s High Society. Al’s sharp eyes noticed the Joie de Vivre plug, and he was intrigued. Thinking he might be up to that excellent, smooth and unusual English blend, I said so and suggested he give it a try.

Well, the next thing I knew, poor Al was puffing away and suddenly looked a bit peaked. When he told me he had opted for a bowl of the Bayou Morning, I wasn’t surprised. As his composure returned, he brought up the subject of my pipes and ended up asking me if his was “very good.” He said a college friend had given it to him, knowing he wanted to quit cigarettes. Glancing at it in his hands, I said it looked Italian, and that a good pipe was anything that made its owner enjoy the tobacco. I added that if he took care of it, the pipe would last him a lifetime. Seeing the briar had faint nomenclature of some sort, I wanted to take a closer look, and perhaps sensing this, he held it out to me.

Squinting, I made out the words Duca Carlo on the shank and exclaimed something that some might consider inappropriate for this space. Understandably alarmed, Al asked if anything were wrong. I told him it was a Savinelli, and it was apparent the name meant nothing to him. I proceeded to explain a little about the well-known Italian maker and the quality of its pipes, noting that although his Duca Carlo was not one of the high-end varieties, it was a fine pipe indeed. That was when the magical moment happened. Al said he was thinking of having it professionally cleaned.

Hmm, I thought. Chuck was gone for the day, and I supposed I had a spare half-hour that night, so I offered my services to the young newcomer. Surprised, he asked how much it would cost, and I told him I would be happy to do it for free. While I have always been reluctant to charge people for anything I enjoy doing, I suppose there were several subconscious reasons behind my impulsive offer: Al is a young student working hard to assure a secure future, similar to another young pipe-smoking friend of mine who is now studying physics at Purdue, and for whom I bought two packs of my own tobacco mix – Sneaky Rabbit, sold by my tobacconist as a house blend – since he was enjoying it so much he was almost out both times during a recent visit to his hometown for the holidays; I remember how tight my finances were in my own college days; I had a sudden desire to pay forward the many similar favors my friend and mentor, Chuck Richards, and others in my piping community have done for me, and least of all, it was just good sense for the growing business Al knew I was in. Al still tried to resist, but there was no way I was going to take his money for a simple cleaning.

Having a similar but apparently newer Duca Carlo of my own, I showed him the picture of it stored in my laptop. Al told me what he really wanted was to see the stem (which was in excellent shape but a dull, faded gray with a thin shiny streak by the shank) sparkle all over. He said he had no idea if it would be possible. I could do that, I assured him, and return it to him the next day.

So that was how the adventure began. Still a little wary, however, when he handed the pipe over to my care as we left, Al said with the sincerest note of entreaty in his voice, “Please don’t break my pipe.” I knew exactly where he was coming from.

REFURBISH
I knew from the beginning there was no way I would just buff the stem and clean and sanitize the pipe. After all, if Al were a paying customer of my business he would get the Basic Cleaning, which includes light refurbishing. All I could see the pipe needed was a little rim burn removal, touch-ups on slight scratches on the stem and bowl and a careful ream of the chamber to remove the small amount of excess cake buildup while leaving the optimal amount intact. The college friend who gave Al this pipe certainly took good care of it and knew what it was, but never said a thing of it his buddy. I liked that.Duca2

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Duca8 Wishing to work with as much efficiency and economy of movement as possible, and having observed the minor burns and other blemishes on the rim, I chose 220 sandpaper to start.Duca9 The choice of paper worked just right in removing the blackness but of course required smoothing. First I used superfine steel wool, which returned a soft sheen and coloration to the nice grain, and followed that with micromesh, buffing upward from 1500 to 2400 to 3200 to 4000.The resulting rim glimmered in its natural pale shade.I also removed the black circle around the shank opening with the steel wool.Duca10 To clear out the unneeded cake in the chamber, I used my smallest reamer, the 17mm, which was loose but close enough to gain a purchase on the walls. Several turns removed the majority of the cake, and followed by a little work with a small piece of 150-grit paper, the work there was done except for cleaning out with a swab of cotton cloth squares soaked in Everclear.

Believing the stem to be black Lucite, and also because of the thorough stripping of cake the procedure would cause, I opted against retorting. Instead I ran a single bristled pipe cleaner dipped in freshener through the stem, back and forth a few times, followed with a dry cleaner so as not to leave any possible unnecessary initial aftertaste.

The shank I cleaned as well as I could, which ended up being quite well, with a wire-handled bristle brush that I ran through the narrow passage about ten times, dipping in a small container of Everclear between each run.

Next up were the only three halfway serious scars I found on the Duca Carlo, shown below before I gave the briar a bath with purified water.Duca11 The scuffs on the right and lower left sides came off fast with micromesh using 1500, 2400 and 3200. The higher and deeper scratch on the middle left side of the bowl needed more surgical, localized work with 220-grit paper followed by the same micromesh progression. I then needed to re-stain the small higher spot on the left side using my Feibings dark brown leather dye.

After flaming it with my Bic and letting it cool for a few minutes while I re-stained the rim (for which, again on impulse, I decided to do with some Lincoln medium brown dye I had on hand, to show off the nice grain there), I used 3600 micromesh to buff the side where the blemish had been until it appeared never to have existed. By then it was time to do the same to the rim, which, as I intended, was the wood’s natural lighter color but, to me at least, gave the pipe a cool two-tone effect.

While I used 3200 micromesh over the whole of the remaining bowl and shank to be sure it was all smooth and ready to put to the wheels, I was seriously eyeballing the new two-tone, almost sick with dread at the thought that Al would be disappointed by my summary decision to alter his pipe without even a consultation. But I let my gut ruling stand, if only with the knowledge that I could reverse it in a jiffy should Al indeed show even a hint of unhappiness.

No kidding, I heard a faint drum roll when the moment came to address Al’s primary concern: the stem. As I noted several times already, this Duca Carlo was in great shape when it was entrusted to my care, and the stem, with the slightest of scratches just below the bit on both sides, was the least of the exceptions despite its almost complete lack of luster. Once more I remembered the advice of others wiser than I to use the least necessary force to correct a problem – advice I took to heart – and began with 1500 micromesh.

Tackling the miniscule scratches first, of course, I saw them vanish with the slightest of pressure before I continued over the rest of the stem to make it even and gave it a thorough rubbing with a soft cotton rag. Then I did the same with 2400, wiped it again, and finished at last with 3600. The prepped stem was looking good, and my heart began to beat harder, knowing I had to take the two precious parts to my single-speed wheels, where only God knew what might happen.

This project had become a labor of love to me, even greater than most of the much more difficult jobs I had performed without disaster before. And so I took a moment to collect my wits and think good thoughts.The phone rang. Dang! There went my happy thoughts.

I didn’t recognize the 575 Area Code and almost did not answer, as is my habit with unknown or Toll Free numbers because of the near certainty that they are spam or scam or other callers I wish would stop phoning me. But something convinced me to go for it. At first the voice on the other end failed to register, but then I realized it was – that’s right – Al. I gave him my card the night before but had no way to call him. There was a slight tone of anxiety in his voice when he asked how his pipe was doing. Relieved to hear his voice and understanding his concern more than he could have known, I almost laughed but choked it down. Feeling my own nerves settling, I told him I was just putting the final touches on the Duca Carlo and could meet him at the tobacconist between 3 and 3:30. At the end of our conversation, I realized I was calm again and good to go.

Proceeding from the living room, where I like to do most of my work in more comfort, to my workroom, with the pipe, stem, cotton rag and camera in my hands, I set everything down on my desk and turned to the small bench with my two buffing wheels. I threw the switch on the one with red Tripoli and without another thought to distract me picked up the smooth gray stem and held it in both hands with confident firmness (but not like a mother choking her child as she’s about to watch the poor kid go off to summer camp or college or wherever) and did what I knew how to do. The first step done, I wiped the stem down, removing the streaks, and flicked on the second wheel that had the white Tripoli. Ditto. Two-thirds of the way home with the stem, and seeing each buff give it a higher shine, I returned to the first wheel where I…yes, I finished it on the White Diamond pad, without a single incident or even slip through the whole process!

Stoked for the next part, I set aside the stem and went straight through the steps again with the bowl and shank, except that I used white Tripoli followed by White Diamond and ended with carnauba.

This Savinelli required one very last task, which is always a pleasure when I have the opportunity to do it. I always seem to forget one thing when I walk to my workroom ready to polish a pipe, and this time it was the white wax marker to fill in the outline of the crown on the stem. I retrieved it from my run case.Taking what I considered a well-needed rest in the office chair before my desk, I took the stem firmly in hand and, with my magnifying glasses on, scraped the little exposed end of wax first left to right across the crown, then turned the stem vertically and applied another layer top to bottom and finally added a third layer diagonally. Brushing aside a little of the considerable resulting excess wax, I pressed my thumb down across the whole blotch and waited for the heat of my skin to make the wax settle into the tiny grooves. After about a minute I lifted my thumb and used the cotton cloth gently around the edges and still more lightly over the area of the crown, which emerged visible with all of its points.

I attached the completed stem and briar and gave the fine pipe that was whole again a final wipe with the rag and millimeter by millimeter scrutiny with my glasses. It passed muster, despite my ever-growing attention to detail.Duca12

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The best laid plans of mice and men often go astray, and due to unforeseen circumstances I was a half-hour late to the tobacconist. Spotting Al sitting in the back of the shop almost as soon as I was through the door, I know he saw me, also, but pretended not to, playing it cool. I even had to say hello first as he stared at something, and when he looked up at me the forced smile told me he was sure I had broken his pipe. All of the good seats were taken by those dratted cigar smokers, except for Al sitting in his in misery that was clear to my keenly empathetic eyes.

And thus it became my extreme pleasure to walk to his side and set down my run case and laptop. Before I stood straight again, I retrieved a dark blue Savinelli box inside of which was a light brown Savinelli cloth bag containing the refurbished Duca Carlo. Al’s eyes lit on the box in my hand. Yes, indeed, that had his attention. I could not, even to save my life, lose the grin on my face as I handed it to him and watched his real smile appear in what must have been extraordinary relief.

Then to watch Al open the box slowly, like a Christmas present, only to find the bag inside that he took out with care and reached inside the open end to pull his pipe out by the stem – well, the obvious shocked surprise as he saw the glistening, dark black stem emerge first, followed by the lustrous refurbished pipe, and the initial reaction of total speechless wonder, told me everything.

“Wow,” was his first word. He went on to expand on that dazed thought, but this seems like a good place to wrap it up.

Giving new life to a Savinelli Product – a David’s Choice Canadian


Blog by Steve Laug

I have written about the restoration and restemming of the first pipe bowl I picked up while on a recent trip. It was found in an antique shop in Nanton, Alberta. It was an old AF Billiard from 1923. The second pipe bowl I found at the same shop is the focus of this refurbishing article. It is stamped on top of the shank with the words David’s Choice and stamped on the underside Italy and barely visible under the repair band Savinelli Product. The repair band was loose and when it was removed the shank had a crack on the bottom side. At the bowl shank junction there is also a small crack that extends back along the shank for almost an inch. It does not appear to go through the shank to the airway but it is visible. The rim of the pipe was clean but the outer edge was damaged and the top edge was badly dented. The finish on the bowl was gone and the briar, though it had stunning grain, was lifeless looking. The bowl was clean in the top ½ inch – looking to have been reamed. The rest of the bowl was badly caked to the point that a pencil would stand in the bottom half unaided. There was no room for additional tobacco. Surprisingly the shank was clean. The stem was long since gone but I found a stem blank in my stem can that would work very well with the pipe.Sav1 Sav2 Sav3 Sav4 Sav5 Sav6 The cake was like concrete in the bottom half of the bowl. I could not cut through it with either the PipNet or the KleenReem pipe reaming tools. I filled the bowl with cotton balls and then used an ear syringe to fill the bowl with isopropyl alcohol. I let it sit for several hours while I worked on fitting the stem.Sav7 Sav8 I used the Pimo Pipe Turning tool to reduce the diameter of the tenon and cut a clean edge against the stem. I sanded it by hand to get it to the proper diameter to fit the shank. I still needed to fit the stem to the angles of the shank and make the lines straight and clean from shank to button. I fit it on the pipe and took some photos to get an idea of what I needed to sand.Sav9 Sav10 I took the cotton balls out of the bowl and then reamed the bowl. The alcohol softened the hard cake and it came out more easily. I finished scraping the bowl with a sharp knife to take out the remnant of cake. I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to reduce the stem to fit the shank. I glued the band in place on the shank with an all-purpose wood glue.Sav11 Sav12 Sav13 Sav14 Sav15 I wiped down the bowl with acetone on cotton pads to remove the remaining finish from the briar. I would eventually stain the briar – not sure at this point what colour I would use but I wanted to have a clean surface for the stain. I also lightly topped the bowl with a topping board and 220 grit sandpaper to remove the damaged top and edges of the rim.Sav16 Sav17 Sav18 I heated the briar with a heat gun to open the pores in the briar to receive the stain and then used a dark brown aniline stain. I applied it and flamed and repeated the process until I had an even coverage over the surface of the bowl. In the past I have thinned the stain to lighten it but have lately just applied it and then wiped it down with alcohol and cotton pads to lighten it after staining.Sav19 Sav20 Sav21 I sanded the bowl and shank with a 1500 grit micromesh sanding pad to further lighten the finish and then wiped it down a further time with the alcohol wet pads.Sav22 Sav23 Sav24 Sav25 I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper and medium and fine grit sanding sponges. I wet sanded with 1500-2400 grit micromesh sanding pads and dry sanding with 3200-12,000 grit pads. I rubbed the stem down with Obsidian Oil after each set of three pads. Once I had finished sanding I buffed the stem with White Diamond. I polished the band with silver polish and gave it a light buff with White Diamond as well.Sav26 Sav27 Sav28 I put the stem back on the pipe and buffed it all again with White Diamond and gave it a several coats of carnauba wax. I buffed it with a soft flannel buff to raise the shine. Though this old warhorse of a pipe has seen much use, the new finish and restored, rebanded and restemmed pipe should give many more years of service. It is cleaned and ready to load with its inaugural bowl. Though the pictures do not show it the pipe is a large one – it is 6 inches long with a bowl that is 2 inches tall. The diameter of the bore is 7/8 inches. It will certainly be a long smoke – and if the build of cake left behind by the previous owner tells any tales it will be a good smoking pipe.Sav29 Sav30 Sav31 Sav32

Restoring a Savinelli De Luxe 132EX Pot


Blog by Flatticus

It is with pleasure that I introduce you to Flatticus. Flatticus is the designer and fabricator of the rustication tool that I wrote about a few posts back. We met via Smokers Forums and also through the blog. We exchanged quite a few messages and emails back and forth over the past months on refurbishing pipes and in building the rusticator. Flatticus has been reading the blog for quite a while now and I have asked him to feel free to write-up some of his work for us to read. Flatticus is a great communicator and does some excellent work in his refurbishing. Without further ado I will let Flatticus introduce himself and this pipe that he has restored.

Hi all, Flatticus here, an amateur to this wonderful hobby. This blog has taught me everything I know about restoration (but far from everything Steve knows, yet) and I’m excited to have a chance to share some of my recent efforts, all with methods learned right here at Reborn Pipes. I recently came across a large lot of pipes with some hidden gems, including this enormous Savinelli De Luxe 132 EX Pot. Even through the grime, it was clear at the outset that this was a beautiful piece of briar. I was a bit hesitant from the outset, though, because I’ve never meddled with a pipe this nice. Still, there’s only one way to learn!
Chris1As you can see, the oxidation was extremely heavy, enough to hide the significant tooth damage to the button and bite zone. The pipe itself was grimy in the extreme, and while a touch of murphy’s oil soap took enough grime off to assure me this wasn’t heat damage, it wouldn’t touch the majority of the blackening on the pipe. First step, then, was to put the pipe in my alcohol bath, a technique I first read about in Steve’s post here. So I reamed the excess cake, and dropped it in the bath. The stem got a quick scrub with some pipe cleaners, and was already pretty clean, so into the Oxyclean it went for 2.5 hours.
Chris2Chris3After the soak and a little scrubbing on with the Magic Eraser pads, actually bought as melamine foam on the cheap off eBay, but it’s the identical product, the stem looked great! At least unless you’ve read the recent post by Joyal Taylor here. Luckily, I had, so I knew to grab my trusty flashlight.
Chris4Oxidation was everywhere, and under an angled flashlight I could see it through the length of the stem. Ok, then I knew I had to sand. But first to address the bite marks. Step one was to try the heat gun, as I learned first here.
Chris5Unfortunately the marks were too deep to come out completely from the heat, so I filled them with black superglue, a technique I found an in-depth explanation of, among other places on the site, here. In the meantime I turned to the stummel itself while the glue was drying.
Chris6The bowl top was scratched pretty badly, and had some definite darkening to contend with. I knew I’d have to top it like Steve showed me in many posts like this one. I grabbed my topping board, actually a granite surface plate I bought from woodcraft years ago for lapping wood plane soles, and now use almost exclusively for pipes.
Chris7At 320 grit, my preferred poison for this procedure, the rim cleaned up quickly, but I soon enough decided that to eliminate all of the darkening I’d have to top the bowl lower than I liked. I came close, but left some of the color rather than lose the original shape. As you can see, the bowl was also a bit out of round (and still is, to a degree), which I went after with folder sandpaper to smooth out the curve without reshaping the bowl. The pipe had 2-3 fills, but I was confident they’d blend into the stain.
Chris8After this was done I gave the bowl one coat, applied twice with flame, of a medium brown Fiebing’s Dye, diluted to about 75/25 with isopropyl alcohol and set it to dry while I turned back to the stem.

Unfortunately after a quick bit of sanding it was clear the stem needed more glue to be built back up, so I added some and tried to be patient while it dried.
Chris9Once it had, I began sanding at 320 again, at this level with an eye towards shaping more than polishing. This is definitely a weak spot for me, so I’m glad for the practice, but I need more!
Chris10After a lot of trial and error (mostly error) I finally had the stem shaped properly and sanded through 320, 600, 800, 1000 grit in sandpaper and the full range of micromesh pads from 1500 to 12000. It was looking nice and shiny, so I gave it a thick rubbing with obsidian oil and set it out to dry for about a half hour.
Chris11At this point it was time to hit the buffing wheels. As you can see, I buff on the lathe, with a three wheel mandrel not made by Beall but suspiciously similar, and with tripoli, white diamond, and carnauba wax. One thing I’ll point out is that odd tool in the foreground, which is a wheel rake. You can get the job done with a hacksaw blade, but if you want clean buffing wheels, these are hard to beat.
Chris12After the three-part buffing, I chucked a 4” flannel wheel into my cordless drill for a final polish by hand. For a rank amateur, I must say myself, this turned out to be a very beautiful pipe.

Some pictures of the finished product:
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Looking back, I still have an awful lot to learn, that much is clear. For one thing, that rim fill didn’t blend quite as well as I was confident it would. All in all, though, I’m pleased as punch at having learned how to do any of this, and I have Steve and the great contributors to this site to thank for it.

Savinelli deluxe Milano Stack Restemmed & Renewed


Blog by Steve Laug

The second pipe in the lot pictured below that I chose to work on was the one on the top of the right column. It is stamped on top of the shank Savinelli de luxe Milano and on the underside the Savinelli shield and next to that is it stamped 130KS Italy. The finish was dull and mostly gone. The rim was not charred at all but had a heavy build up of tars. The bowl was caked – interestingly for a pipe this deep it was caked all the way to the bottom of the bowl. The dimensions of this bowl are: height 2 1/4 inches, outer diameter of the bowl 1 ½ inches, diameter of the chamber ¾ inches. It smelled of sweet aromatics so it would need to be reamed and cleaned well. There was no stem with it but there was a broken tenon stuck in the shank. I would have to pull the tenon and fit a new stem on the bowl. It was made of a good piece of briar – no fills or sand pits. The grain is cross grain on the front and back of the bowl and the top and the bottom of the shank. It had some very nice birdseye grain on each side of the bowl and the shank. The shape of the shank was a modified oval shape.

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Before I cleaned the bowl and shank I removed the broken tenon that was stuck in the mortise. I have a screw that works perfectly for this process. I turn it into the tenon by hand or a screw driver and then work it out by hand or with a pair of pliers. If the tenon is stuck and will not move I put it in the freezer for 30 minutes or more and generally it will pop out quite easily. In this case it came out quite simply and I was able to move on in the process of cleaning.

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I sorted through my collection of old stems to find an oval one that I could modify to fit the style of the shank. I had looked on line and found that this particular model of Savinelli had a taper stem (see the first photo below). I did not have any oval tapered stems that would fit, nor did I have large enough round stems that could be modified. I chose an older oval saddle stem that I believed would look good. I think that originally it was on a Dr. Plumb pipe but the logo was worn off and my modifications would remove the red dot on the stem (second photo below).

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I sanded the tenon with 220 grit sandpaper until I had a good snug fit on the shank. The next four photos show the stem before I began to shape it to fit. The fit against the shank was good and tight. The look of the pipe and stem worked for me so I was good to go.

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I do the initial shaping of a stem with a Dremel and sanding drum. I set the speed about mid mark on the speed control of the Dremel and slowly work at the surface of the stem. I do this initial shaping with the stem on the shank. I want to shape it as closely as possible to the shank shape before doing the finish shaping by hand. The next three photos show the stem after this initial shaping. There was still much work to do in bring the stem and shank to a proper fit and the width of the stem to a match with the taper of the shank. This work had to be done by hand using sandpaper and files.

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The depth of the bowl on this stack made it impossible for me to get to the bottom of the bowl with my reamers. The PipNet reamer went about 2/3 of the way down the bowl and the KleenReem or Senior reamer did the same. I have used a plumbing tool that is used to clean up pipe after cutting it to ream deep bowl. It is a ¾ inch cone shaped wire brush with a handle that I can turn into the bowl and go to the bottom to remove the cake evenly. It works exceptionally well for this purpose.

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I cleaned up the rim of the pipe with 220 grit sandpaper and also worked on the shank stem fit with the same sandpaper. As I was planning to refinish the pipe bowl and shank I did not care if I removed a bit of the finish while sanding the stem and shank. The next three photos show the stem/shank fit after I had sanded it with the sandpaper. I really liked the look of the pipe at this point and only needed to do the stem polishing and the finish sanding and cleaning of the bowl.

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I used acetone on cotton pads to remove the finish on the pipe. I wiped it down until it was the same colour as the sanded portion of the shank. This would make blending the stain much easier to do. The first two photos below show the bowl after the initial wipe down with acetone. Photos 3-5 show the pipe after the finish has been removed from the pipe and it is ready to be stained.

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When I sanded the stem I found that there was one small tooth mark on the top of the stem near the button that no amount of heat would lift up. I sanded the spot with the 220 grit sandpaper until it was clean and then buffed it with Tripoli until it was very clear the breadth of the spot. I filled the indentation with clear super glue and sanded it once it was dry. The two photos below show the stem repair after the initial sanding and then after it was ready to be polished. Once the polishing was done the repair would be virtually invisible.

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I cleaned the internals of the stem and the shank with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and Everclear until the shank and the internals of the stem were clean. I used a dental pick to clean out the areas inside the button and the flare of the airway in the button.

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Once the insides were clean I wiped the bowl down with Everclear and removed any possible grime that I added to the surface in the cleaning process. The next three photos show the pipe after all of the cleaning. It is beginning to look like the stem and pipe were made together.

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Because of the amount of grime that I cleaned out of the shank and the stem I decided to use a retort on it to give it a more thorough cleaning. The next series of three photos show the set up of the retort system. I use isopropyl alcohol in the test tube and heat the tube with a small tea light candle. I use a block of ebony that I have here to support the pipe and retort during the process. The alcohol is boiled through the pipe until it comes out clean. Generally this takes 2-3 fresh test tubes of alcohol.

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After removing the retort I cleaned out the bowl, shank and stem with pipe cleaners and cotton swabs a final time to remove any of the alcohol and oils that remained. I then sanded the stem with 1500 and 1800 grit micromesh sanding pads to begin polishing the surface and to remove any of the debris left from the surgical tubing on the stem.I continued to sand the stem with the micromesh sanding pads from 2400-12,000 grit in preparation for staining.

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I stained the pipe bowl and shank with dark brown aniline stain mixed 2 parts stain to one part alcohol to get the brown colour that was previously on the pipe. I wanted it thin enough that the grain would really stand out and give the pipe a uniform look after the sanding. The pipe has some beautiful cross grain on the front and back of the bowl and the top and bottom of the shank with birdseye grain on the sides. I wanted the stain to highlight that. I stained the pipe, flamed it and restained and reflamed it to set the stain in the grain.

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Once the stain was dry I took the pipe to the buffer and buffed the bowl and the stem with White Diamond to polish the stem and the stained bowl. Afterwards I gave it multiple coats of carnauba wax and buffed it with a clean flannel buff. For a final touch I hand buffed it with one last coat of wax and shoe shine brush. The final photos below show the finished pipe. It is cleaned, renewed and ready to go out to a good friend who loves this shape!

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Stem Bite through repair – Savinelli Punto Oro Prince


Blog by Steve Laug

I picked up this little Savinelli Prince because I really like the shape of the pipe and the spigot style stem. I bid knowing full well that the stem had a bit through on it. Once it arrived I could have replaced the stem but decided to do a stem patch on it. The pipe itself was in great shape other than the bite through near the button on top of the stem. The underside of the stem was clean with no tooth marks or chatter. As I examined it I also noticed that the previous owner seemed to have done a halfway patch on it and in the process had broken a chunk out of the button and repaired with white glue. The white glue may have been applied by the seller to keep the pieces together while he sold it. I will never know for sure, but the glue would not hold for long as it is water soluble. The two pictures below show the extent of the damage in the stem and give a good idea of the state of the pipe as a whole. It was a great pipe with some unfortunate damage to the stem.

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I cleaned off the broken chunk with a dental pick, which was surprisingly easy and makes my above assertion about the seller doing a quick patch up more likely. I cleaned off the debris on the chunk (it was not very big, but was an essential piece of the button). I washed it with Isopropyl alcohol. Then I re-glued it with clear super glue. I purposely over filled the crack and pushed the piece in place until it held. I would sand off the excess glue once I had dealt with the bite through on the stem.

The bite through was a mess as well. There was oxidation in the hole as well as some built up dust and dirt. I picked the hole clean with the dental pick (by now you know that this is one of my indispensable tools in the refurbishing process). I wiped it down with a cotton swab and Isopropyl alcohol to get a good clean hole. By this point it was black and clean. I used a small round needle file to clean up the rough edges on the hole as I wanted a solid surface to work with. I washed it yet again with the alcohol to remove the grit from filing.

This time, instead of using the greased pipe cleaner in the slot I used a small nail file that fit the slot perfectly and gave a base to the glue. The hole was too big for just a pipe cleaner to provide the coverage. I greased both surfaces of the file and inserted it in the slot in the button. I gradually built up the hole with repeated applications of super glue. I let the layers dry before adding a new coating of glue. I have found that if I build it slowly around the edges it gives a better repair. Once it was built up I over filled the hole to make sure it is well covered and the hole is no longer visible. On this particular pipe I used clear super glue because I was out of the black super glue. Both versions work exceptionally well but the black has the benefit of being the same colour as the stem and is a little less visible.

After the glue was dried I used the flat blade needle file to rework the button back into shape and give it the nice sharp edges that it should have. I sanded the stem smooth, removing the excess glue and the roughness of the glue. I went on to sand it with 400 and 600 wet dry sandpaper and a bit of water to remove the scratches left by the 240 grit paper. Then I used the full range of micromesh pads, 1500, 1800, 2400, 3200, 4000 and 6000 grit to smooth it out. As usual I had a bowl of water near at hand to dip the pads as I sanded and to wash them of the slurry that comes as I sanded. Once they were smooth and shiny, the last three grits of micromesh really do a nice job giving the stem a sheen, I took the pipe to my buffer I finished it with White Diamond polishing compound.

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I have been asked in the past how long the stem patches hold up and the durability of the patch. I have no long term proof of their durability but I have had this pipe for about two years and have smoked it quite a bit and the patch shows no sign of giving way. I clean it as I would any other pipe with pipe cleaners after use and then periodically breaking it down to give it a thorough cleaning inside and out. I would say that is a pretty good track record for a patched pipe. Time will tell but in the meantime it is very smokeable and looks great in my opinion.