Tag Archives: Bowl – finishing

Restoring one more pipe for an old pipeman – a 1990 Calich Hand Made Grade 10 Apple

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by Steve Laug

Earlier this month I received an email from Kathleen regarding one more Calich pipe for her husband. Here is here email.

… another abused Calich pipe that he had shamefully squirrelled away…

…About the poor abused Calich… a lovely pipe but he has two torch burned damage areas on a rusticated band around the top of the bowl… it might make more sense to cut it down below the rusticated band but I absolutely defer to your wisdom in the matter.

All Calich pipes deserve to be saved. — Kathleen

I agreed with her and I replied to Kathleen and invited her to send the pipes to me in Vancouver. They arrived just this week. I put on the Billie Holiday Disc and went through the package. Next to the four CDs there was a carefully bubble wrap bag with a pipe inside. It is by far the worst of the damaged pipes that I have worked on for this fellow. This one is an oval shanked apple shape pipe. It is stamped on the underside of the shank and read G followed by CALICH [over] Hand Made [over] 10 and above that 90. The rim top and the first ¼ down is rusticated in typical Calich style. The rest of the bowl was smooth as was the shank. The pipe had a very thick cake in the bowl and there was a lava overflow and burn damage on the top. There was some major burn damage under the lava on the mid-front edge of the bowl as well as a deep burned area on the left side toward the back of the left side. The burn marks on both were like a large bite out of the briar as can be seen in the photos. The shank had a thick coat of tars and oils and the stem had a thick tar build up as well so its fit in the shank was very sticky and dirty. The saddle stem itself is vulcanite with a single silver dot on the topside. It was heavily oxidized and had light tooth marks and chatter on both sides of the stem just ahead of the button. There were overflowing tars on the smooth shank end around the fit of the tenon in the mortise. There was a nickel repair band on the shank end that was oxidized and looking at the shank end there were some cracks in the shank. The finish was very dirty and oily but the grain I could see through the grime and tars appeared to be quite nice. A lot would be revealed once I had cleaned it. I took photos of the pipe before I started my cleanup work. I took a close-up photo of the bowl and rim top to show its condition. The inside of the bowl was heavily caked with a wet, oily tars up the sides and over the rim top. The rim top had damage on the front and on the back-left side. It is the worst as it is quite thin and is like a deep bite mark down the sides of the bowl. It left a mess for me to clean up. The stem was also is a mess. There was some light tooth marks and chatter on the top and underside ahead of the button. There was a thick coat of calcification and oxidation on the stem. The silver dot on the stem top was tarnished but very visible. I took a photo of the bowl with the stem removed to show the look of the pipe.I took a photo of the stamping on the underside of the shank. It is clear and readable as noted above. I am once again including information about John Calich the pipemaker as I have loved John Calich’s pipes for over 25 years now and have collected a few of them. I have restored quite a few of them and written blogs about them that can be read if you are interested in seeing the kind of pipes that John made. They are unique and beautiful. Each of his pipes are a work of art to me. I am including the links to the previous blogs that have written about his pipes.

https://rebornpipes.com/2015/03/03/one-of-my-john-calich-pipes-a-calich-ee-billiard/

https://rebornpipes.com/2019/01/23/i-am-the-happy-owner-of-an-unsmoked-pipe-by-the-late-john-calich/

https://rebornpipes.com/2015/03/03/one-of-my-john-calich-pipes-a-calich-ee-billiard/

https://rebornpipes.com/2014/03/21/reflecting-on-my-collection-of-john-calich-pipes/

Each of the blogs reflects on John’s pipes if you want to get a feel for them take a few minutes and read them.

When John was living I spoke with him several times via phone and had him make some new stems for some of his pipes that I picked up off eBay. He was a very kind gentleman and was always helpful when I spoke with him. He was always ready with encouragement and when I needed to know how to do something when I was first learning to repair pipes he was willing to help. He was one of the old guard of Canadian Pipe makers. I miss him. I am including a short piece from Pipedia on John to give details on his work and the grading of his pipes. The second paragraph below is highlighted in blue as it gives some information on the Grade 10 Apple that I am working on with the single silver dot now. I am also including a photo of John Calich, courtesy Doug Valitchka

John Calich was one of Canada’s finest carvers. He died in July 2008. John was a full-time pipe maker for the last 40 years. Calich pipes were mostly traditional shapes. His signature style is rustication and smooth on the same pipe along with his unique skill to stain a pipe in contrasting colors. He used only top-quality Grecian and Calabrian briar. The mouthpieces are hand finished Vulcanite “A”. Each pipe was entirely made by hand. John Calich was featured in the summer 2005 issue of Pipes & Tobacco.

His pipes are graded 3E – 7E. Retail prices range from$ 145.00 to $ 500.00 Each pipe is stamped “CALICH” 3-8E, his earlier pipes were graded from 3-14, and a single, tiny silver dot is applied to the top of the stem (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Calich).

I summarize the dating information from those blogs now: From my research and conversations I learned that John’s later pipes were graded 3E – 8E. The retail prices for them ranged from $145.00 to $500.00. Each pipe was stamped “CALICH” and given an E grade. His earlier pipes were graded from 3-14 and had a single, tiny silver dot applied to the top of the stem. More information can be found at the Pipedia article above. All of this information told me as expected that the pipe I had was an earlier one.

Armed with the information about John’s grading system I knew that the pipe in hand was an earlier Calich Hand Made Grade 10 Oval Shank Apple pipe and the 90 told me it was made in 1990. Now it was time to work on the pipe. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet reamer using the 2 and 3rd cutting heads to remove the cake back to bare briar. I cleaned up the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife to scrape back the remaining cake. I sanded the bowl with some 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel to smooth out the walls of the bowl. Once it was clean I turned my attention to the rim top. There was so much damage to the rim top that I decided to use Kathleen’s suggestion and trim off the damaged areas. I flattened out the damaged areas with a wood rasp to take it down so the sides were even. I used a Dremel and sanding drum to even it out and then topped the bowl with 220 grit sandpaper on a topping board to give the rim top a smooth surface. It looked better but the inner edge is rough on the left side and the outer edge is bad on the front side.I built up the outer edge damaged area on the front of the bowl with clear CA glue and briar dust. I did the same on the left side inner edge and rim top. Once finished it really looked like a mess.I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper and a medium grit sanding sponge to flatten the repaired areas on the exterior of the bowl. I also used the folded 220 sandpaper to smooth out the inner edge a bit. Later I would do a better job on that but I was just trying smooth it out for the next step.I scraped the shank with a penknife to remove the thick build up of tar and oil. The knife let me take it back to the briar without damaging the walls of the shank and mortise. I scrubbed the inside of the mortise, shank and airway in the shank and stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and pipe cleaners. Before I called it a day I stuffed the bowl with three cotton bolls until it was almost even with the rim top. I used a rolled cotton boll to plug the shank end. I used an ear syringe to fill the bowl with isopropyl alcohol. I set it aside in a pipe rest to let the alcohol leach out the oils into the cotton. I turned out the lights and let is sit overnight. In the morning I turned on the lights and this is what I found. The cotton was a dark brown both in the bowl and shank end. I removed it and took photos of the cotton with the tars. I used a piece of 220 grit sandpaper and a wooden sphere to give the inner edge of the bowl a bevel. Once it was finished it looked much better. Last evening I had come to a decision to rusticate the rim top and down the bowl side about ¼ inch around the sides. But to start I wanted it smooth.With the rim top smooth I used a series of burrs on my Dremel to rusticate the surface of the bowl and edge. It began to take on shape. I used a black stain pen to stain the rusticated portion of the bowl and rim top. The rustication was very similar to what I have seen on a lot of Calich pipes. The contrast was going to be nice once I finished working on the smooth portion of the bowl. I worked over the rustication with a brass bristle wire brush to clean off the burrs and debris on the rustication. Once I knocked it off I took photos of it to show the look of the bowl at this point. I polished the smooth bowl sides and shank with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down with a damp cloth after each pad. It looked very good with the rusticated portions. I rubbed the bowl down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the surface of the smooth and the rusticated briar with my fingertips and a shoe brush to clean, enliven and protect it. I let the balm sit for ten minutes then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. Mark Hoover’s Balm is a product that I have come to appreciate and one I use on every pipe I have been working on. I polished the nickel band on the shank end with a jeweller’s cloth to remove the oxidation and protect the metal from reoxidizing as quickly. It took on a good shine.  I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I “painted” the stem surface of the stem with the flame of a Bic lighter to lift the tooth marks and chatter on the surface. I was able to remove them all.I scrubbed the oxidation on the stem surface with Soft Scrub and cotton pads and was able to remove the majority of it. The cleaning was progressing and it was looking better.I sanded the stem with 320-3500 grit sanding pads to break up the remaining oxidation. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with a soft cloth. It began to take on a shine. I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. Once I had finished the polishing I gave it final coat of Obsidian Oil and set it aside to dry. This is another pipe from Kathleen that I am working on. It is another beautifully shaped 1990 John Calich Hand Made Grade 10 Apple Pipe. It has the kind of beauty I have come to expect from John’s pipes with a rusticated rim top and first ¼ inch of the bowl side. I put the bowl and stem back together. I polished the bowl and stem with Blue Diamond to polish out the scratches in the briar and the vulcanite. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The pipe polished up pretty nicely. The rusticated finish is well done and the polished smooth finish on the shank end and rim top look really good with the black vulcanite stem. This Calich Hand Made Apple was a challenging pipe to bring back to life. It is a comfortable pipe to hold in the hand. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 1 ¼ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ½ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 42 grams/1.48 ounces. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I worked on it. I will be sending it back to Kathleen later this week for her husband to enjoy.

Cleaning up another one of my restorations from many years ago

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by Steve Laug

I have always liked the GBD 9438 shaped pipe and this one was one that I picked up many years ago when I first started working on pipes. I found it at an antique shop. It was in the early days when I picked up most every pipe I found. I believe that like others I found in the early days this pipe cost me about $6CDN. Just remembering that reminds me how much things have changed over the years. It became a favourite shape of mine and over the years I have purchased many more 9438 pipes made by GBD for their main and their seconds lines such as Irwin and Dr. Plumb. I have added them to my collection. Here is a link to a blog I did on my collection back in 2013 (https://rebornpipes.com/2013/12/12/my-gbd-9438-saddle-stems-and-tapered-stem-rhodesians/). I have 12 – some were in rough shape and others not so bad. I have been sorting through my pipe collection and thinning out pipes that I am willing to part with. I have sold many already and others are currently on the store. For the most part these pipes have been early restorations and all needed a bit of work to bring them up to my current standard. I have set aside three 9438 pipes that I decided to rework. This is the second of them. It is stamped on the left side GBD in the oval [over] Gold Label [over] Made in France. On the right side it is stamped with the shape number 9438. While it was very workable and I had actually smoked it quite a bit over the years I knew that original restoration on it was less rigorous than my current standards. So, before I listed it for sale I wanted to work it over again. I took photos of the pipe to give a sense of the beauty, the French take on the 9438 shape and the work that needed to be done. I took photos of the pipe’s bowl and rim top to show the moderate cake in the bowl and some darkening on the bevelled rim top and a nick on the front outer edge of the bowl. I also took photos to capture the condition of the stem. It had some light oxidation and tooth chatter and marks on the top and underside ahead of the button.I took photos of the stamping on each side of the shank. It is readable and clear as noted above. The oval GBD brass rondel is visible on the left side of the saddle stem.I took the stem off the shank and took a photo of the look of the pipe. It an interesting take on a 9438 shape. Unique and beautiful.I decided to address the damage to the rim top and inner edge of the bowl. To deal with the burned inner edge of the rim and the rim top damage I worked on the edge with a piece of 220 grit sandpaper. I used a piece of 220 grit sandpaper on a wooden ball to further clean up the bevel. It took a bit of work to smooth out the damage and the darkening on the bevelled inner edge of the bowl. It looked much better at this point. I reamed the bowl with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife to take out the cake. I removed ti back to bare briar. I sanded the bowl walls with a piece of 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a dowel to smooth out the walls. It looked very good. No burn damage or checking on the bowl walls.I scrubbed out the shank and the stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol to remove the tars and oils. The shank was dirty though the stem airway was not too bad. It cleaned up well.I sanded the bowl and rim top to start smoothing out the rim top and start the polishing of the bowl. I also worked on the burn mark on the lower right of the bowl/shank union. I used 320-3500 grit sanding pads. I wiped the bowl down with a damp cloth after each pad. It really began to take on a shine. I polished the briar with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with a damp cloth to remove the sanding debris on the surface. I rubbed the bowl down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the surface of the briar with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect it. I let the balm sit for a little while and then buffed with a cotton cloth and shoe brush to raise the shine. I set the bowl aside and turned to address the stem. I “painted” the stem with the flame of a Bic lighter to lift the remnants of tooth marks that remained in the stem from the last time I worked on it. It worked very well and the dents lifted so that sanding the marks that remained removed all the remnants.I sanded the stem surface with 320-3500 grit sanding pads to remove all the marks remaining from the tooth damage. I wiped the stem down after each pad with a cloth impregnated with Obsidian Oil. It looked much better.It was in good condition other than the light tooth chatter so I polished the vulcanite with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad. I used Before & After Pipe Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine to further polish the stem. I gave it a final coat of Obsidian Oil and set it aside to dry. This GBD Gold Label Made in France 9438 Bent Rhodesian cleaned up much better this second time around and looks very good. The Before & After Restoration Balm brought the colours and grain out in the smooth finish on the pipe. It works well with the polished vulcanite saddle stem. I put the stem back on the bowl and carefully buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel using a light touch on the briar. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the buffing wheel. I followed that by buffing the entire pipe with a clean buffing pad. I hand buffed the pipe with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished GBD Gold Label 9438 Rhodesian fits nicely in the hand and I think it feel greats as it heats up with a good tobacco. Give the finished pipe a look in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 inches, Height: 1 ½ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¾ inches, Chamber diameter: 1 inch. The weight of the pipe is 2.08 ounces/59 grams. It is time to move it on to someone who will give it proper attention. I will be adding this one to the French Pipemakers Section of the rebornpipes store shortly. If you want to add it to your collection let me know. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I worked on it.

A Kennett No.1 Billiard Another Brilliant Attempt at a Cool Dry Smoke

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By Steve Laug

The next pipe on the work table is a pipe that we picked up from a seller in Cottage Grove, Minnesota, USA on 02/02/2022. This one was a unique fluted, pinched shank take on classic Billiard. It is stamped on the topside of the shank and reads Kennett [arched over] No 1. On the underside of the shank it is stamped London Made [over] Made in England [over] Reg’d 731096. The smooth, fluted finish around the bowl shows some nice grain patterns. There was grime and oil ground into the finish around the bowl. The fluted carving on the bowl sides and the holes around the rim go down the ridges to the bottom of the bowl. There was a moderate cake in the bowl and tobacco debris on the walls and heel. The rim top had lava overflowing from the bowl. It was thicker on left back of the rim top. The edges looked good but a clean up would tell the story. There was some thinning around the inner edge of the bowl affecting the holes in the rim top. The vulcanite taper stem was oxidized and had some tooth chatter and tooth marks on the top and underside ahead of the button. The interesting pipe showed a lot of promise but it was a mess. I took pictures of the pipe before I started my clean up work. I took photos of the rim top and bowl as well as the stem surfaces to show the condition of the well smoked pipe. You can see the thick cake in the bowl and the lava on the inner edge and rim top. There is also some roughening on the inner edge but the out edge looked good. There was a small nick in the outer edge on the left backside. The stem was oxidized, calcified and had scratches and light tooth chatter and marks on both sides ahead of the button.I took photos of the stamping on the sides of the shank and stem. The stamping is clear and readable as noted above. Before I started working on the pipe I wanted to do a bit of research and see what I could learn about it. First, I looked on Pipephil for The Kennett London Made No 1 and was unable to find any information there. There was no logo on the shank or the stem to help identify the brand.

I turned then to Pipedia (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Kennett) and found a very short entry there. I quote it below. There were photos of several pipes, a Kennett Box and a pamphlet that gave some information. I quote it below:

J.A. Kennett, LTD. in London were the makers of the Kennett pipe (photos thank to Doug Valitchka). I also Googled and was able to find a link to a Kennett for sale on smokingpipes.com (https://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/estate/england/moreinfo.cfm?product_id=372529). There was also a photo that are worth look in at. I have included the description that was written about the pipe below.

This 1930s Billiard from Kennett is really unique, with its vertical, fluted channels opening up into tiny, hollow holes on the rim, resulting in an intriguing aesthetic. But wait: There’s more. Paired to the pert, tall bowl is a tapered, pinched, paneled shank that is unusual and is complemented by the bowl’s ridges. The jet-black vulcanite stem is also tapered. This smooth piece is dressed in a warm, chestnut stain that accentuates all of the above, and the fluting certainly provides entertainment for nimble fingers. -Angela Robertson

I also found a link on Google for an auction on Worthpoint for an unsmoked Kennett that was for sale there (https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/kennett-briar-unsmoked-air-cooled-469502789 . I have included the description that seller included with the item.Here’s an auction for sale. A The Kennett Briar “Air Cooled” Briar Pipe made in London England in the 1950’s or earlier. The bowl has 10 holes drilled down thru the bowl wall on the ribs on the bowl. The pipe will be very cool to touch and to smoke because of the air cooled circulation in the holes and around the rib cuts. The Kennett Briar pipe is Air-Cooled, Cool as a Cucumber, Light as a Feather, Sweet as a Nut says J. A. Kennett, Ltd.9/11 Tottenham Street London, W. The Kennett Guarantee says every care has been used in selecting well seasoned Briar Root for making of this Pipe, and it is guaranteed with fair usage not to crack or burn. The stem is English Vulcanite.

Now I knew that the pipe was made between the 30s and 50s. The Reg’d number on it makes me think that is an older one – possibly from the 30s. I would not be able to further pin the date down on the pipe. Now it was time to work on it.

I started my work on the pipe by cleaning up the lava on the rim top. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to clean it up. I carefully cleaned the darkening on the inner edge at the same time. I scraped the cake around the bowl sides with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe knife and then sanded the walls with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. The walls were smooth and showed no burn damage. I cleaned out the interior of the shank, mortise and airway in the stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol. It was a dirty pipe.I scrubbed the externals of the pipe with Mark Hoover’s Briar Cleaner (extra strength). I cleaned the surface of the briar with my fingertips working product into the surface of the briar. I scrubbed it with a tooth brush working it over. I rinsed off the Mark’s Briar cleaner with warm water to remove the debris and grit that it had collected. I dried it off with a soft cotton cloth and took some photos of the pipe at this time. There was burn damage on the rim top that was going to remain. The holes down the sides of the bowl from the rim top were thin so I did not want to remove any of the briar. I chose to leave the burn marks as they are. I used a Maple stain pen to touch up the rim top. It matched the colour of the stain on the rest of the bowl. Once it was polished it would blend in very well. I polished the bowl with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with a damp cotton pad after each sanding pad. The briar really took on a patina that began to look better with the polishing. I rubbed the bowl down with Before & After Restoration Balm. It is a paste/balm that works to deep clean the finish, enliven and protect the briar. I work it into the briar with my finger tips to make sure that it covers every square inch of the pipe. I set it aside for 10 minutes to let it do its work. I wiped it off with a soft cloth then buffed it with a cotton cloth. The briar really began to have a deep shine. The photos I took of the bowl at this point in the restoration. You see the shine that the briar has taken on and the way grain pops with the light buffing. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I worked on the oxidation on the stem with Soft Scrub and was able to remove it. Lots of elbow grease and working over the surface but it started to look much better.I sanded the stem with 320-3500 grit sanding pads to break up the remaining oxidation. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with an Obsidian Oil impregnated cloth. It was looking good.I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. Once I had finished the polishing I gave it final coat of Obsidian Oil and set it aside to dry. I am glad to be on the homestretch on what was a mystery pipe when I started. I really am looking forward to the final look when I put a pipe back together, polished and waxed. I polished the bowl and stem with Blue Diamond to polish out the scratches in the briar and the vulcanite. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The pipe polished up pretty nicely. The grain pops with the wax and polish. The shiny black vulcanite stem is a beautiful contrast to the browns of the bowl and shank. This The Kennett No1 Reg’d 731096 Billiard was interesting pipe to work on. The pipe is comfortable pipe to hold in the hand. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.45 ounces/41 grams. This Kennett pipe is a great piece of history of the ongoing search for the cooler and drier smoke. I will be adding it to the British Pipe Making Companies Section on the rebornpipes store shortly. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I working on it.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipemen and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

Restoring a Danish Made Barling Make International 911 Brandy

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by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the work table is a pipe that we picked up from an eBay seller in Jordan, Minnesota, USA on 01/22/2024. This one was a nice looking sandblast Brandy that has a classic Barling look. It is stamped on the underside of the shank and reads Barling in script [over] Make [over] International [over] Made in Denmark. On the shank end at the joint of the stem it is stamped with the shape number 911. On the top of the saddle stem it is stamped with the Barling cross logo. It has some smooth panels mid bowl on the left and right side. The sandblast around the bowl shows some nice grain patterns. There was lot of grime and oils ground into the finish around the bowl and the shank. The pipe was dirty but the contrasting dark and medium brown stains highlighted the grain of the briar. There was a thick cake in the bowl. The rim top had a thick coat of lava overflowing from the bowl. The edges looked good but a clean up would tell the story. The rim top was crowned. The stem is a vulcanite saddle shape that has the Barling cross on the top of the saddle. It was oxidized, calcified and had some tooth chatter and tooth marks on the top and underside ahead of the button. The pipe showed a lot of promise but it was a mess. Jeff took pictures of the pipe before he did his clean up work. He took photos of the rim top and bowl as well as the stem surfaces to show the condition of the well smoked pipe. You can see the cake in the bowl and the lava on the inner edge and rim top. The outer edge of the bowl is in good condition. It appears to have a nicely rounded crown on the rim top. The stem was lightly oxidized, calcified and had scratches, tooth chatter and marks on both sides ahead of the button. Jeff took some photos of the sides and heel of the bowl to give a sense of the sandblast finish and the grain around the bowl. It should clean up very well. He captured the stamping on the sides of the shank and stem. It reads as noted above and is clear and readable. He also took photos of the Barling cross on the top of the saddle stem. The stem also has a white acrylic spacer that fits between the shank end and the stem face. I like to do background research on the pipes I am working on. I did a quick search on the rebornpipes blog and found a blog written by Paresh that gives some great background information (https://rebornpipes.com/2019/09/16/a-fresh-lease-on-life-for-a-barling-t-v-f-911-made-in-denmark/). I quote from it below:

I had previously worked on a couple of Barling pipes from my inherited pipe collection; here are the links to both the write up,  https://rebornpipes.com/2019/03/26/a-simple-restoration-of-an-early-transition-era-barling-2639/, https://rebornpipes.com/2018/12/10/decking-out-my-grandfathers-battered-pre-transition-barling-1354/   and had researched this brand then. To refresh my memory, I revisited the write ups and also pipedia.org. Here is an interesting excerpt from pipedia.org (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Barling)

In the late 1970’s production of Barling pipes was shifted to Denmark where Eric Nording manufactured Barling pipes for Imperial. There may have been other factories, but as of this writing, none has been identified. Nording stated that he made approximately 100.000 pipes for Imperial.

Despite these attempts to diversify the line, Barling lost its market. These pipes just weren’t equivalent to the family era pipes. Finally, Imperial decided to close down the Barling operations entirely by 1980.

Paresh discerned from the above information that the pipe currently on his work table is from the period between late 1970’s to 1980 and most likely carved by master craftsman Eric Nording!! For me the fascinating thing is that the pipe I am working on is from the same master and the same carver.

Now it was time to look at it up close and personal. Jeff had removed the cake and the lava on the rim top. He had reamed the bowl with a PipNet Pipe Reamer and cleaned up the remnants with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He took the cake back to bare briar so we could check the walls for damage. He scrubbed the exterior of the bowl with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush to remove the grime on the bowl and rim and was able to remove the lava and dirt. He cleaned out the interior of the bowl and shank with shank brushes, pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol until they came out clean. He cleaned the stem with Soft Scrub to remove the grime on the exterior. He cleaned out the airway with alcohol, cotton swabs and pipe cleaners. I took some photos of the pipe before I started my work on it today. I took a close up photo of the cleaned up rim top. The rim top and the inner edge look good. The bowl is clean and the walls are undamaged. The stem looks good with some tooth chatter and marks along the top and underside ahead of the button. The Barling Cross is faded with the cleaning.I took a photo of the stamping on the shank side. It is clear and readable as noted above. I took the stem off the pipe and took a photo. The thick shank billiard is an attractive looking pipe with nice lines. The taper stem shows tooth damage on the top and undersides of the stem. I started my work on the pipe by working over the rim top and the bowl and shank with a 320 grit sanding pad. I wiped the bowl down after sanding pad. The rim top began to take on a shine.I polished the rim top with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the rim top down after each sanding pad with a damp cloth. It really took on a shine. I rubbed the bowl down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the surface of the briar with my fingertips where it works to clean, restore and preserve the briar. I let it do its magic for 15 minutes then buffed it off with a cotton cloth. The pipe looks incredibly good at this point in the process. I set aside the bowl and turned my attention to the stem. I touched up the stamping on the topside of the saddle stem with white acrylic fingernail polish. I pointed it on with the applicator and scraped off the excess and lightly sanded it with a 1500 grit micromesh pad.I “painted” the surface of the stem with the flame of a lighter. I was able to raise all of the tooth marks. I sanded out the light remnants that remained with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper. Once finished I wiped it down with an Obsidian Oil impregnated cloth. It looked much better. I continued to polish the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it further with Before & After Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I gave it a final coat of Obsidian Oil and set it aside to absorb the oil. I am excited to finish this Made in Denmark Barling Make International 911 Brandy made by Eric Nording. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl multiple coats of Conservator’s Wax and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and then by hand with a microfibre cloth to deepen it. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with beautiful sandblast grain all around the bowl and shank and the smooth well grained crowned rim top. The polished grain on the pipe looks great with the black hard rubber stem. This Danish Barling Make International 911 Brandy is great looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 6 inches, Height: 2 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 inch, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 44 grams/1.55 ounces. It turned out to be a beautiful pipe. I will soon be putting it on the rebornpipes store in the Danish Pipemakers Section. If you are interested in adding it to your collection let me know. Remember we are the next in a long line of pipe men and women who will carry on the trust of our pipes until we pass them on to the next trustee. Thanks for your time reading this blog.

Reworking another newly acquired trade, a Pipe by Lee Limited Edition Dublin

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Blog by Steve Laug

A month or so ago I received an email from a fellow in Japan who had some pipes he wanted to sell. He sent me a few and one of them was this interesting smooth finish Dublin. The pipe was clearly stamped on the left side and read Pipes by Lee [over] Limited Edition. On the right side it was stamped An Authentic [over] Imported Briar. The stamping was clear and readable. The bowl has been reamed and the pipe cleaned. The shank is very clean inside and the pipe smelled very clean. It was so clean that I don’t think the pipe had been smoked since the fellow in Japan picked it up. The rim top was clean though there was some scratches on the rim top and the inside edge of the rim showed damage on the right side. There was no damage to the outer edges. The pipe had been given a shiny top coat. The stem looked good. It was polished and there appeared to be a repair on the underside ahead of the button. There was probably a bite through that had been repaired and it was very well done. Overall, I am happy with it but I will need to remove the shiny varnish coat. I will need to polish the repair on the underside of the stem to bring the shine out. I took photos of the pipe before I started my work on it.   I took a photo of the rim top to show the condition of the bowl and the top. You can see clean bowl and marks on the rim top. The inner edge is slightly out of round. The stem looks very good with no tooth damage and no oxidation on the surface of the vulcanite. The repair on the underside of the stem is visible but is solid and very hard. It looks like an epoxy putty repair.I took photos to show the stamping on the sides of the shank. It is clear and readable as noted above. I took a photo of the stinger apparatus in the stem and the three gold stars on the top of the taper. I took the stem off and took a photo of the pipe to show its condition. I remembered that Aaron Henson had written about the restoration of a Pipes By Lee 3 Star Rhodesian he had restored in the past so I turned there first to read about it. I am including the link to the blog if you wish to check it out on your own. (https://rebornpipes.wordpress.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=37004&action=edit&classic-editor).

Aaron had included pic of the flyer to the left that gives a sense of the hierarchy of the brand. I know that even though the flyer says it goes up to 5 stars I have seen 7 star pipes in the past.

I reread Aaron’s blog and when I finished I turned to Pipedia for any additional information but did not find anything new. I have included the link in case some of you might want to check it out (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Lee).

I checked also on Pipephil’s site (http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-l3.html). I have included a screen capture of the material below. I also included the information from the sidebar below the screen capture. It is helpful information.This brand was distributed by Stewart-Allen Co, Inc. NY. Grading (ascending): 1 to 5 stars. Early pipes have seven pointed brass stars, middle run have five points and later pipes are stamped with coloured gold stars. Lee seconds: Briar Lee , Gold Coast.

Now I had a pretty good idea of how the pipe was stamped and made. With that information I turned to work on the pipe itself. I started my work on the pipe by cleaning up the inner edge of the rim. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the damage on the front left side. I gave the edge a slight bevel to minimize the damage. It looked much better when finished. I polished the briar with micromesh sanding pads to remove the uneven coat of varnish or shellac on the briar. I used 1500-12000 grit sanding pads and wiped the bowl down with a damp cloth after each sanding pad. I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the finish of the bowl, rim top and shank with my fingertips. The product works to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I find that the balm really makes the briar come alive again. The contrasts in the layers of stain really made the grain stand out. I let the balm sit for 15 minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The bowl really looks good at this point. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. The stem looked quite good but as I noted above there was a rather large repair on the underside of the stem near the button. My guess is that there was a bite through that was repaired. The repair looked quite good and was solid. It looks like a two-part epoxy repair. It is solid and slightly lighter in colour than the stem. I sanded the repaired with 320-3500 grit sanding pads to polish that area. I wiped it down with a damp cloth after each pad. I applied some black CA glue to the top of the repair to darken it and in doing so found another repair on the topside – a hairline crack in the surface of the stem ahead of the button. I covered that with black CA glue at the same time. Once that cured I sanded it smooth with 220 grit sandpaper. I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads -dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down after each pad with Obsidian Oil. I finished this stage in the polishing with Before & After Fine and Extra Fine Polishing Compound to protect and deepen the shine. The repairs were less visible but still present. With the bowl and the stem finished I put the Lee Limited Edition 3 Star Dublin back together and buffed it on the wheel using Blue Diamond to give it a shine. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the wheel. I buffed it with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. It really is a great looking pipe. The dimensions of the pipe are – Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of this pipe is 1.02 ounces /29 grams. This Pipes by Lee Limited Edition 3 Star Dublin is another great looking pipe. It is much more beautiful in person than these photos can capture. The repairs on the stem are solid and the pipe will be a great deal for someone. I will be putting it on the rebornpipes store in the American (US) Pipemakers Section soon. If you would like to add it to your collection let me know. This is another pipe that has the possibility of transporting the pipe man or woman back to a slower paced time in history where you can enjoy a respite. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me.

Restoring an Old NEBPC Bent Billiard with an old-style vulcanite stem

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by Steve Laug

The next pipe I have chosen to work on is one that we picked up 04/16/2024 from a seller on Facebook Marketplace in Tacoma, Washington, USA. The pipe is an older style bent billiard with narrow vulcanite stem. The pipe is stamped on the left side of the shank with NEBPC in a pie shaped circle with a letter in each section. That is followed by Flagship in script [over] Algerian Bruyere. On the right side it is stamped with the shape number 14 at the bowl shank junction. The brand and stamping are the mystery to me. It is one I had not heard of before and had no idea of what the initials stand for. The smooth finish had some very nice grain but there was a lot of grime and oils ground into the finish around the bowl and the shank. The pipe was dirty but the rich stain highlighted the grain. There was a thick cake in the bowl overflowing in thick lava on the rim top. The inner edge looked quite good though the lava covered it. The outer edge was in good condition other than a nick on the left backside of the bowl. The stem is vulcanite and the shape and cut of the button leads me to think it is an older pipe. It has a stamp on the topside of the taper that is very hard to decipher with the oxidation and grime on the surface. It was oxidized and had tooth chatter and tooth marks on the top and underside ahead of the button. The marks on the stem next to the button lead me to wonder if the stem had been cut off and a new button cut. I am uncertain but probably will never know. The pipe showed a lot of promise but it was a mess. I took pictures of the pipe before I did my clean up work. I took photos of the rim top and bowl as well as the stem surfaces to show the condition of the well smoked pipe. You can see the thick cake in the bowl and the lava on the inner edge and rim top. There is also some roughening on the inner edge but the out edge looked good. There was a small nick in the outer edge on the left backside. The stem was oxidized, calcified and had scratches, tooth chatter and marks on both sides ahead of the button.I took photos of the stamping on the sides of the shank and stem. On the left side it reads as noted above. On the right side it is stamped with the shape number 14. There is also some mark on the top of the tapered stem that I cannot decipher. I removed the stem from the shank and took a photo of the pipe to show its flow. I looked on Pipephil for both the circular pie shaped logo and the NEBPC Flagship stamping and found nothing. I also looked on Pipedia and again came up emptyhanded. I just felt like I was missing something in the search. I tried various interpretations of the NEBPC letters – Nebraska Pipe Club, New England Briar Pipe Club for two attempts and came up empty. I wrote to John Young who also does restoration and asked if knew of a Nebraska Pipe Club and he knew of nothing like that in his state. That left me still mystified.

I decided to do a search for the NEBPC on Google to see if I could interpret the meaning of the letters. I wondered what they stood for so I searched and came up with a thread on the brand on the pipesmagazine forums (https://pipesmagazine.com/forums/threads/i-love-this-pipe-but-who-made-it.48662/). There was quite a long discussion that gave some good information. Like the quote below by samcoffeeman on Apr 6, 2015

I got a hit! Was thinking it was NEBPC because of the order and PC meant pipe club perhaps. It actually means New England Briar Pipe Company. Another example here with some great info: LINK (link is disconnected)  Kaywoodie also has a Canadian pipe shape #71 so there you go!

buroak replied the following:

The NEBPC made the Yello Bole line for KBB. That “Algerian Bruyere” stamp looks like the same one used on Yello Boles, too. What is strange is the two-digit code. Nice find!

misterlowercase added some more information regarding the brand. He included links to the old factory where that pipe was made in Penacook New Hampshire, is still in use today,

http://pipedia.org/wiki/Yello-Bole

I turned to the second link first to have a look at the large photo first. It showed the large older building. Here is the link (https://debralavalley.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/dsc_0024sm.jpg).

I then turned to the pipedia article (http://pipedia.org/wiki/Yello-Bole) and found a great article on the history of the KBB/Yello-Bole pipe company.

History

In 1932 Kaufmann Bros. & Bondy (KB&B), est. 1851, expanded their program consisting of KB&B pipes, Reiss-Premier and Kaywoodie as the mainstay brand by introducing the Yello-Bole line. Yello-Bole was designed as an outlet for lower grade briar not used in Kaywoodie production.

At that time KB&B produced their brands in Union City and in West New York, both New Jersey. Deviating from that, Yello-Boles were manufactured by The New England Briar Pipe Company in Penacook, New Hampshire to use this KB&B subsidiary to capacity.

As briar was hardly had during World War II, the KB&B Company embarked on a project of domestically grown briar wood, called Mission Briar or manzanita early in 1941. The Pacific Briarwood Company, a subsidiary founded for this purpose, began harvesting the burls growing on the slopes of the Santa Cruz Mountains of California. Though this wood is botanically the same as briar form the Mediterranean countries, the smoking characteristics were not quite as good and the project was abandoned after the war.

Was it for that reason? Advertising from the 1940’s pictures the Yello-Bole “Honey Girl”, who gently urges the pipe smoker to smoke the pipe with “a little honey in every bowl.” In fact, honey was an ingredient of the material used to coat the inside of the bowl. It was said to provide a faster, sweeter break-in of the pipe.

In 1952, 101 years after the Kaufmann brothers had opened a small pipe shop in the Bowery section of New York City, Kaufmann Bros. & Bondy Company with all subsidiaries was purchased by an unknown company strange to pipe industry. (At least, the new owner was economical because the KB&B managers had to leave their luxurious bureaus on 630 Fifth Avenue, New York – the Rockefeller Center – for new rooms in the factory on 6400 Broadway, West New York.) This interlude ended after only 3 years in March of 1955, when S. M. Frank & Co. bought Kaufmann Bros. & Bondy, The Kaywoodie Company, Reiss-Premier Corp., The New England Briar Pipe Co. and – of course – Yello-Bole.

From the time of S.M. Frank’s purchase in 1955 until 1972 Yello-Bole was run as a separate company, as division of the parent. Through this period, Yello-Bole, same as Kaywoodie, had its own officers, sales force and maintained the production facilities in West New York. These 17 years were probably the most glorious years in Yello-Bole’s history.

I also found a listing in the business directory for the New England Briar Pipe Co. I have included that information below.I used the hints above to check on the shape number 14 in the Pipedia listing of Kaywoodie shape numbers (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Kaywoodie_Shape_Numbers). That gave me the information that the number 14 was a Full Bent Medium Billiard with a Taper Stem that was made between 1927-1972.

That information gave a range that the shape was made for Kaywoodie pipes. However, since the pipe made by the New England Briar Pipe Co., a company that ceased to exist in 1955, the pipe in hand was made prior to that time period. The pipe was made by the company in Penacook, New Hampshire. Now it was time to work on this old pipe that was no longer a mystery.

I started my work on the pipe reaming the bowl. I started by doing the work with a Pipnet Pipe Reamer and took the cake back to bare briar. I cleaned up the remnants around the bowl sides with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe knife and then sanded the walls with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. The walls were smooth and showed no burn damage.  I scraped the lava build up on the rim surface with the Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. I was able to remove all of the thick lava. It still needed some thorough cleaning but it was looking better.I scraped out the mortise with a small pen knife to remove the thick tars and oils. I cleaned out the interior of the shank, mortise and airway in the stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol. It was a dirty pipe.I scrubbed the externals of the pipe with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush. I worked over the inside of the bowl at the same time. I rinsed it with warm water to remove the grime and debris. I dried it off with a soft cotton cloth and lightly buffed it with the cloth. It smelled very clean. I used a 320 grit sanding pad to remove the remaining tars and oils on the rim top. I worked it over to clean up the top and prepare it for polishing with micromesh sanding pads. I polished the bowl with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with a damp cotton pad after each sanding pad. The briar really took on a patina that began to look better with the polishing. I paused the polishing and used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the damage on the inner edge of the rim. It looked much better. Then I stained the rim top with a Cherry Stain pen. It matched the rest of the briar very well. With polishing it would be unrecognizable. I went back to the polishing process with the remaining micromesh sanding pads from 3200-12000 grit pads. The briar began to take on a rich shine. I rubbed the bowl down with Before & After Restoration Balm. It is a paste/balm that works to deep clean the finish, enliven and protect the briar. I work it into the briar with my finger tips to make sure that it covers every square inch of the pipe. I set it aside for 10 minutes to let it do its work. I wiped it off with a soft cloth then buffed it with a cotton cloth. The briar really began to have a deep shine. The photos I took of the bowl at this point in the restoration. You see the shine that the briar has taken on and the way grain pops with the light buffing. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. There was some damage on the stem top next to the button on both sides. I was not sure if it was tooth marks or file marks. The were deep cuts but the stem is quite thick at this point on both sides. I filled the spots in with black CA rubberized glue. I set the stem aside for the repairs to cure.While it cured I touched up the blurry stamp on the top of the stem with white acrylic fingernail polish. Then I scraped away the excess white acrylic with a 320 grit sanding pad. It was fascinating to see that underneath the white acrylic the stamp was a train engine. It was very well stamped but faint in spots.Once the repairs on the stem cured I used a file to flatten them and reshape the button on both sides. It was showing promise. I sanded the surface of the repair smooth with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper. I also sanded the oxidation on the stem surface at the same time. By the time I finished wit the reshaping and sanding the stem looked much better. I sanded the stem with 320-3500 grit sanding pads to break up the remaining oxidation. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with an Obsidian Oil impregnated cloth. It began to look good. I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. Once I had finished the polishing I gave it final coat of Obsidian Oil and set it aside to dry.  I am glad to be on the homestretch on what was a mystery pipe when I started. I really am looking forward to the final look when I put a pipe back together, polished and waxed. I polished the bowl and stem with Blue Diamond to polish out the scratches in the briar and the vulcanite. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The pipe polished up pretty nicely. The grain pops with the wax and polish. The shiny black vulcanite stem is a beautiful contrast to the browns of the bowl and shank. This NEBPC – New England Briar Pipe Company Flagship Algerian Bruyere Billiard was another fun pipe to work on. The pipe is comfortable pipe to hold in the hand. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.45 ounces/41 grams. This NEBPC pipe was a fun one to work on with a great piece of history and connection with KB&B Yello-Bole. I will be adding it to the American (US) Pipe Making Companies Section on the rebornpipes store shortly. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I working on it.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipemen and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

Reworking another newly acquired trade, a Hansen Briar Danish ¼ Bent Pot

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Blog by Steve Laug

A month or so ago I received an email from a fellow in Japan who had some pipes he wanted to sell. He sent me a few and one of them was this interesting sandblast ¼ Bent Pot that came in a pipe sock. The pipe was clearly stamped on the underside and read Hansen [over] Briar the same as the pipe sock. Along the shank stem junction, it is stamped Made in Denmark. The stamping was clear and readable. The bowl has been reamed and the pipe cleaned. There was a carbon bowl coating on the bowl. The shank is very clean inside and the pipe smelled very clean. It was so clean that I don’t think the pipe had been smoked since the fellow in Japan picked it up. The rim top was clean though the inside edge of the rim showed damage on the left front. There was no damage to the outer edges. The pipe had been given a varnish/shellac coat that made the blast very shiny. The stem looked very good. It was polished and there were no tooth marks or chatter on either side of the stem. Overall, I am happy with it but I will need to remove the shiny varnish coat. I took photos of the pipe before I started my work on it. I took a photo of the rim top to show the condition of the bowl and the top. You can see clean bowl (with carbon coating) and a clean rim top. The stem looks very good with no tooth damage and no oxidation on the surface of the vulcanite.I took a photo to show the stamping on the underside of the shank. It is clear and readable as noted above. I took the stem off and took a photo of the pipe to show its condition.I turned to Pipephil’s site to see what I could learn about the Hansen Briar Made in Denmark brand and particularly the sandblast one I was working on (http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-h1.html). I have included a screen capture of the section on the brand. It is noted in the side bar that it is a brand of Poul HansenI followed the link in the side bar to Poul Hansen of the article above to see what it is included on the brand (http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-p4.html#poulhansen). I have included a screen capture of that section as well as the side bar below.Poul Hansen was a pupil of Sixten Ivarsson during the 1960s and 1970s. He started as tool and machine maker for Danish pipe makers but soon decided to carve pipes on his own. He concentrated on American, Japanese and German markets. He founded the Danish Pipe Shop (Strøget, Copenhagen) which he sold to Steffen Nielsen in 1969. Poul Hansen retired in 1998.

That short history is intriguing as is the connection to Sixten Ivarsson. That led me to do some more digging on Pipedia ( https://pipedia.org/wiki/Hansen,_Poul) and found the following more detailed information. I quote below:

Poul Hansen was a very skilled toolmaker and builder of machine tools. Around 1960 he got in contact with the workshops of Pibe-Dan, W.Ø. Larsen and others. So, he began to make a lot of special tools and machines for a large number of the Danish pipemakers in the early 60’s. He was inspired by the many beautiful pipes he saw when he visited the pipemakers and soon he decided to try out the art himself.

Poul Hansen was basically “self taught” and his early attempts suffered from kinda awkward shapes and finishing. Things turned for the better significantly when Sixten Ivarsson, appreciating the talent, began to tutor Hansen for a while and taught him the vital “tricks” of pipemaking. Soon after Hansen was in business fine. Right from the start he avoided the competition at home and concentrated on the American, Japanese and German markets.

Iwan Ries in Chicago was one of his first American dealers and in catalogs form the late 60’s and early 70’s you can find Poul Hansen pipes ranging from 125 – 500 $US. In Japan, his pipes were prized even higher at the same time. For the German market, Hansen made some very elegant 9mm filter pipes which rank among the best ever made in this tier.

Hansen carved the bulk of his pipes during the 1960’s and 1970’s. Around the midst of the 1970’s he took over a small Copenhagen tobacconist’s shop from it’s retiring owner. Now, operating the shop took a lot of his time but vice versa secured a steady income, and Hansen reduced his output considerably. BTW In Denmark he only sold a very limited amount of pipes – but some of his very best.

He stamped most of his pipes “HANSEN” + “BRIAR” + “HANDMADE” + “DENMARK” (the latter sometimes vertically). Few pipes are grouped “MEMORIAL” instead of “BRIAR”. If these are grading names, Memorial is considered to be the higher.

When Poul Hansen in 1998, at a very old age, decided to stop making pipes (due to his poor eyesight), the remains of his workshop, including a fairly large number of pipes, were bought by one of the leading Danish suppliers of briar and rods. Some of the tools are still there, but all the pipes – many not stamped yet – were obtained by Lars Kiel in early 2002. Some of these pipes are now up for sale.

Poul Hansen is little known in today’s circles, those collectors (especially in the States) who have his pipes, tend not to sell them.

With the information from Pipedia I knew that I was working on a bit of a rarity of pipes. It was a Poul Hansen. He started making pipes in the late 60s and early 70s and stopped making pipes in 1998 at an old age. That helped lock in a time period for the creation of this pipe. Now it was time to work on the pipe.

I started my work on the pipe by cleaning up the inner edge of the rim. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the damage on the front left side. I gave the edge a slight bevel to minimize the damage. It looked much better when finished.I took on the shiny top coat on the bowl next. It was deep in the sandblast finish and I worked on it with a brass bristle wire brush and some 100% acetone to remove the finish. It took repeated applications of acetone and the hard scrubbing of the brass bristle brush. I was able to break down the finish and open up the pores in the briar. I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the finish of the bowl, rim top and shank with my fingertips and a shoe brush to get it in to the crevices and valleys. The product works to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I find that the balm really makes the briar come alive again. The contrasts in the layers of stain really made the grain in the sandblast stand out. I let the balm sit for 15 minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The bowl really looks good at this point. The stem looked so good that I rubbed down with Obsidian Oil and used the Before & After Fine and Extra Fine Polishing Compound to protect and deepen the shine.With the bowl and the stem finished I put the beautiful Poul Hansen, Hansen Briar Made in Denmark ¼ Bent Pot back together and buffed it on the wheel using Blue Diamond to give it a shine. I gave the bowl multiple coats of Conservator’s Wax and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the wheel. I buffed it with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. It really is a great looking pipe. The dimensions of the pipe are – Length: 4 ¾ inches, Height: 1 ½ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ½ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of this large pipe is 1.23 ounces /35 grams. This Hansen Briar ¼ Bent Pot is another great looking pipe. It is much more beautiful in person than these photos can capture. I will be putting it on the rebornpipes store in the Danish Pipemakers Section soon. If you would like to add it to your collection let me know. This is another pipe that has the possibility of transporting the pipe man or woman back to a slower paced time in history where you can enjoy a respite. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me.

Reworking another newly acquired trade, a Michel Deluxe Sandblast Pot

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by Steve Laug

A month or so ago I received an email from a fellow in Japan who had some pipes he wanted to sell. He sent me a few and one of them was this interesting sandblast Pot. The Pipe was clearly stamped and read Michel Deluxe [over] Made in [over] London, England. The stamping was clear and readable. The bowl has been reamed and the pipe cleaned. The shank is very clean inside and the pipe smelled very clean. It was so clean that I don’t think the pipe had been smoked since the fellow in Japan picked it up. It looked to me like it had a repair on bottom front wall of the bowl. The damage was well repaired but looked like it was from overzealous cleaning with pipe cleaners. It looked like the kind of damage that is caused by the wire in a pipe cleaner. The rim top and edges looked very good. There was no damage to the inner or outer edges. The pipe had been given a varnish/shellac coat that made the blast very shiny. The stem looked very good. It was polished and there were no tooth marks or chatter on either side of the stem. Overall, I am happy with it but I will need to remove the shiny varnish coat. I took photos of the pipe before I started my work on it. I took a photo of the rim top to show the condition of the bowl and the top. You can see clean bowl and rim top. You can also see the light repair on the bottom front of the bowl. They did a great job so it is solid. The stem looks very good with no tooth damage and no oxidation on the surface of the vulcanite.I took a photo to show the stamping on the underside of the shank. It is clear and readable as noted above. I took the stem off and took a photo of the pipe to show its condition.I turned to Pipephil’s site to see what I could learn about the Michel Deluxe Made in London, England brand and particularly the sandblast one I was working on. Sadly there was nothing there under that listing. I then turned to Pipedia (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Michel) and found the following information is courtesy of Matt Hardin:

I see that there has been some confusion about these pipes recently from the entry under “Michel” on Pipedia. Not surprising at all. This tsunami of MICHEL and MICHEL DELUXE pipes which washed ashore on eBay a few months ago all came from one enormous NOS pipe auction on HiBid.

At the time I attempted to document what I could about the auction in general, who the owner was, and some detail about the hundreds of MICHEL and MICHEL DELUXE pipes included. I placed everything I could find in this long thread at Pipe Smokers Den with the full story evolving over time: https://pipesmokersdens.com/threads/the-ultimate-nos-pipe-auction.19629/

The bottom line on those pipes is that they were named after the shop which sold them: Maison Michel of NC, owner Michel J. Mitchell. They were made by a variety of private label pipe manufacturers, most probably from the 60s-70s. Some are marked Made in England, some France, some Denmark. Michel Mitchell died in 1980 after which his sister sold the store to a bank and the entire inventory of the shop sat in storage for ~40 years.

From there I followed the link given in the article to the discussion on Pipesmokersdens (https://pipesmokersdens.com/threads/the-ultimate-nos-pipe-auction.19629/page-3) an online forum that had this information:

Maison Michel was opened by Michel J. Mitchell, a Lebanese immigrant and WWII Navy veteran in Charlotte, NC in 1951. He operated his pipe and gift shop until he passed away in 1980. Thereafter his only survivor was a sibling who sells the real estate, is otherwise super wealthy (and a good person), and she puts his shop inventory in storage for 42 years until she passes away in 2022. Then in 2023 a mother lode of NOS pipes is unleashed online.  

I have included a banner below on the shop as well as some news clippings below that. Though they are small they are still readable.With the information from Pipedia I knew that I was working on a pipe from Maison Michel of North Carolina Pipe or Tobacco Shop. The one I was working on was English Made and may not have been a part of this motherlode but rather one from the shop itself. I am not sure I will ever know that for certain but it is finished while the others in the sale were not. I also learned that it was made during the 60s or 70s. Now it was time to work on the pipe.

I started my work on the pipe by addressing the shiny top coat on the bowl. It was deep in the sandblast finish and I worked on it with a brass bristle wire brush and some 100% acetone to remove the finish. It took repeated applications of acetone and the hard scrubbing of the brass bristle brush. I was able to break down the finish and open up the pores in the briar. I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the finish of the bowl, rim top and shank with my fingertips and a shoe brush to get it in to the crevices and valleys. The product works to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I find that the balm really makes the briar come alive again. The contrasts in the layers of stain really made the grain in the sandblast stand out. I let the balm sit for 15 minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The bowl really looks good at this point. The stem looked so good that I rubbed down with Obsidian Oil and used the Before & After Fine and Extra Fine Polishing Compound to protect and deepen the shine.With the bowl and the stem finished I put the beautiful Michel Deluxe Sandblast Pot back together and buffed it on the wheel using Blue Diamond to give it a shine. I gave the bowl multiple coats of Conservator’s Wax and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the wheel. I buffed it with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. It really is a great looking pipe. The dimensions of the pipe are – Length: 5 ¾ inches, Height: 1 ½ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ½ inches, Chamber diameter: 3/4 of an inch. The weight of this large pipe is 1.34 ounces /38 grams. This Michel Deluxe Pot is another great looking pipe. It is much more beautiful in person than these photos can capture. I will be putting it on the rebornpipes store in the British Pipemakers Section soon. If you would like to add it to your collection let me know. This is another pipe that has the possibility of transporting the pipe man or woman back to a slower paced time in history where you can enjoy a respite. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me.

Restoring a Beautiful Imperial Old Bruyere 188 Chunky Billiard

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By Steve Laug

The next pipe on the work table is another pipe is another pipe that we picked up from the estate in Oregon City, Oregon, USA on 03/21/2024. This one was a nice looking thick shanked Billard that reminds me of Dunhill LB pipes. It has some nice grain patterns. It is stamped on the left side of the shank and reads Imperial in script [over] Old Bruyere [over] Made in England. To the right of that is stamped the  which is the symbol for a Registered Trademark. On the right side of the shank it is stamped next to the bowl with the shape number 188. The smooth finish had some very nice grain but there was a lot of grime and oils ground into the finish around the bowl and the shank. The pipe was dirty but is quite nice natural tones of the briar. There was a moderate cake in the lower portion of the bowl. The inner edge looked quite good. The outer edge was rounded and damaged giving the rim top a crowned look. The stem seems to be hard rubber rather than vulcanite that leads me to think it is an older pipe. It has a stamp on the left side of the taper that reads Imperial with the tail of the “l” curving under the rest of the stamp in the same script as the stamp on the shank. It had some light oxidized and had some tooth chatter and tooth marks on the top and underside ahead of the button. The pipe showed a lot of promise but it was a mess. Jeff took pictures of the pipe before he did his clean up work. He took photos of the rim top and bowl as well as the stem surfaces to show the condition of the well smoked pipe. You can see the light cake in the bowl and the light lava on the inner edge and rim top. There is also some roughening on the outer edge at the front and back of the bowl. It appears to have been rounded over giving the rim top a bit of an artificial crown. The stem was lightly oxidized, calcified and had scratches, tooth chatter and marks on both sides ahead of the button. Jeff took some photos of the sides and heel of the bowl to give a sense of the grain and the shiny varnish or shellac coat on the exterior of the bowl. It is definitely an addition that will need to be removed. He captured the stamping on the sides of the shank and stem. On the left side it reads as noted above. On the right side it is stamped with the shape number 188. To capture the stamping on the left side Jeff had to take a few extra photos. I turned to Pipephil to get a quick overview of the background information on the Imperial brand (http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-i.html). There was no background information on the site this time but the photos below are helpful in terms of the stamping on the shank and the stem.I turned to Pipedia for more information (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Imperial_Tobacco_Co.). I quote the article below.

From Pipes, Artisans and Trademarks, by Jose Manuel Lopés’

The Imperial Tobacco Co. (Imperial Tobacco Ltd.) was founded in 1901 through the merger of several British tobacco companies. In 1902 it went into partnership with the American Tobacco Company to found the British American Tobacco Company.

See also: Civic. Brands involved: Comoy’s, Bewlay, Nording, Ogden’s, Salmon & Gluckstein, and Steel’s

There was a great older advertisement on the link as well that highlighted the age of the brand. I have included that below.Now it was time to look at it up close and personal. Jeff had removed the cake and the lava on the rim top. He had reamed the bowl with a PipNet Pipe Reamer and cleaned up the remnants with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He took the cake back to bare briar so we could check the walls for damage. He scrubbed the exterior of the bowl with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush to remove the grime on the bowl and rim and was able to remove the lava and dirt. He cleaned out the interior of the bowl and shank with shank brushes, pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol until they came out clean. He cleaned the stem with Soft Scrub to remove the grime on the exterior. He cleaned out the airway with alcohol, cotton swabs and pipe cleaners. I took some photos of the pipe before I started my work on it today. I took a close up photo of the cleaned up rim top. The rim top and the inner edge look good. The damage on the outer edge of the bowl shows up as rounding on the front and the back of the bowl. The bowl is clean and the walls are undamaged. The stem looks good with some tooth chatter and marks along the top and underside ahead of the button. The stem is hard rubber which makes the work more difficult on the tooth marks.I took a photo of the stamping on the shank side. It is clear and readable as noted above. I took the stem off the pipe and took a photo. The thick shank billiard is an attractive looking pipe with nice lines. The taper stem shows tooth damage on the top and undersides of the stem. I started my work on the pipe by working over the rim top and the bowl and shank with 320-3500 grit sanding pads. I wiped the bowl down after each sanding pad. The bowl began to take on a shine. I used a Cherry stain pen to restain the rim top and edges to match the colour of the rest of the bowl. The match will be perfect once I finish the next stage of polishing.I polished the smooth rim top and areas on the bowl and shank with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. After each pad I wiped the bowl down with a damp cloth to remove the sanding debris. It really took on a shine and the fills were less noticeable by the last three sanding pads. I rubbed the bowl down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the surface of the briar with my fingertips where it works to clean, restore and preserve the briar. I let it do its magic for 15 minutes then buffed it off with a cotton cloth. The pipe looks incredibly good at this point in the process. I set aside the bowl and turned my attention to the stem. I “painted” the tooth marks and chatter on both sides of the stem with the flame of a Bic lighter. I was able to lift all of them to the point where sanding the stem with 220 grit sandpaper should smooth the rest of them out.I touched up the faint stamping on the left side of the taper stem with white acrylic fingernail polish. I pointed it on with the applicator and scraped off the excess and lightly sanded it with a 1500 grit micromesh pad. I sanded out the remnants of the tooth marks with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper and was able to remove all of the remaining marks. Once finished the stem looked very good.I sanded the stem surface with 320-3500 grit sanding pads. I wiped down the stem after each pad using a cloth impregnated with Obsidian Oil. It started looking better as each step took it closer to the finished look.I continued to polish the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it further with Before & After Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I gave it a final coat of Obsidian Oil and set it aside to cure. I am excited to finish this Imperial Old Bruyere  Made in England 188 Billiard. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and then by hand with a microfibre cloth to deepen it. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with beautiful straight grain all around it. The polished grain on the pipe looks great with the black hard rubber stem. This Imperial Old Bruyere Billiard is great looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 6 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 53 grams/1.87 ounces. It turned out to be a beautiful pipe. I will soon be putting it on the rebornpipes store in the British Pipemakers Section. If you are interested in adding it to your collection let me know. Remember we are the next in a long line of pipe men and women who will carry on the trust of our pipes until we pass them on to the next trustee. Thanks for your time reading this blog.

Cleaning up a Lightweight Gourd Calabash Pipe

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by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the table is a small older style meerschaum lined Gourd Calabash without the top. It is one we picked up from and estate in Oregon City, Oregon, USA on 03/21/2024. The surface of the gourd is smooth and unadorned. It has an acrylic shank extension. The gourd had obviously been waxed and the surface was smooth and shiny. The meerschaum was unique in that it was almost like a meerschaum lining in a briar pipe than the typical cup liner that I was familiar with in Calabash pipes. The meer bowl had a light cake in it but the rim top looked good and had taken on a nice patina. The inner edge had some slight damage on the right side and was a little rough to the touch. The acrylic shank extension was in excellent condition and fit with a slight waist at the gourd end. The fancy turned stem was quite heavily oxidized and there were light tooth marks on the top and underside ahead of the button. The stem had also straightened out over time and would need to be re-bent to fit the flow of the bowl. I took a few photos of the pipe in the car on the way home and have included them below. I took a photo of the rim top and bowl to show the condition of both of them. The bowl shows that is clear of caking on the walls. The rim top showed some darkening. The inner edge of the bowl has some damage that will need to be taken care of. The photos of the stem show the heavy oxidation and light tooth marks/chatter on both sides ahead of the button. I removed the stem from the shank and took a photo to show the proportions of the pipe. It is a nicely shaped gourd and the meerlining looks great. The stem length works very well with the pipe.I started my work by cleaning up the inner edge of the meerschaum lining. I gave the inner edge a slight bevel with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper.I cleaned up the cake in the meerschaum bowl with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe knife and then sanded the walls with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. The walls were smooth and showed no burn damage.I cleaned out the interior of the shank, mortise and airway in the gourd and in the stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol. The pipe was surprisingly clean. I polished the rim top (meer and gourd) and the gourd body itself with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. At the same time I polished the acrylic shank extension. I wiped it down with a cotton pad and a cloth impregnated with Obsidian oil after each sanding pad. The briar really took on a patina that began to look better with the polishing. I rubbed the bowl down with Before & After Restoration Balm. It is a paste/balm that works to deep clean the finish, enliven and protect the gourd. I work it into the gourd with my finger tips to make sure that it covers every square inch of the pipe. I set it aside for 10 minutes to let it do its work. I wiped it off with a soft cloth then buffed it with a cotton cloth. The calabash really began to have a deep shine. The photos I took of the bowl at this point mark the progress in the restoration. You see the shine that the gourd has taken on and the way grain pops on the smooth portions and the rusticated parts have depth. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I decided to rebend the stem to fit the flow of the bowl. I heated it with a lighter flame and put it in the shank. I bent it so that when it was held in my mouth the bend of the stem was straight and even with the top of the bowl. I sanded the re-bent stem with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the tooth damage and chatter as well as the oxidation. It began to look much better.I worked on the oxidation on the stem with Soft Scrub. I worked it into the surface of the vulcanite with cotton pads and was able remove the majority of the oxidation on the stem surface. I sanded the stem with 320-3500 grit sanding pads to break up the remaining oxidation. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with an Obsidian Oil impregnated cloth. It began to look good.I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. Once I had finished the polishing I gave it final coat of Obsidian Oil and set it aside to dry. More than usual at this point in the restoration process I am excited to be on the homestretch. I really am looking forward to the final look when I put a pipe back together, polished and waxed. I polished the bowl and stem with Blue Diamond to polish gourd bowl and the vulcanite. I gave the gourd and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The pipe polished up pretty nicely. The shiny black acrylic shank extension and the vulcanite stem is a beautiful contrast to the browns of the bowl and shank. This Meerschaum Lined Gourd Calabash was another fun pipe to work on. The pipe is comfortable pipe to hold in the hand. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 6 ¾ inches, Height: 2 ¼ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ½ inches, Chamber diameter: 7/8 of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.27 ounces/36 grams. I will be adding it the Ceramic and Meerschaum Pipes section of the rebornpipes store. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I working on it.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipemen and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.