Eavesdropping on a Conversation on Manzanita and Mountain Laurel Pipes – Robert Perkins & Mike Leverette


Over the years I have kept this interchange between Robert Perkins and Mike Leverette on my hard drive on the computer. I found it enjoyable and educational at the same time. I wrote Robert and asked for permission to pass this interchange on to readers of this blog. Robert Perkins is a pipe maker http://www.RMPerkins.com and Mike Leverette was a friend and mentor to me with regard to the pipe and its history. There is not a day that goes by that I do not think of Mike and wish I could give him a call.

Here is the interchange between them:

Robert Perkins

You see, when imported briar started getting scarce during WWII, US pipemakers started looking for alternatives, and they were basically split into two camps: those who started using manzanita and those who started using mountain laurel.

Ever hear of a pipemaker called Breezewood? Well, Breezewood was one of the companies using mountain laurel as a substitute for Mediterranean briar, just like Monterey Pipes was one of the companies using manzanita, or “Mission Briar”.

ImageImage

Breezewood quietly closed its doors after the war because, as it turns out, all parts of the mountain laurel (Important: Not Manzanita) are “dangerously poisonous“.

Mountain laurel contains a powerful neurotoxin that, when ingested, causes convulsions, paralysis, and death within a matter of about six hours.

And somewhere along the way — I’m guessing way too late in the game for some — folks using mountain laurel as a substitute for Mediterranean briar figured this out.

I’m just gonna bet money that people started getting sick, maybe even dying: people growing and harvesting mountain laurel, people in pipe factories breathing all that mountain laurel dust, and possibly even folks who smoked those mountain laurel pipes, later on down the line.

People caught on. Maybe there were even some items in the news. And suddenly US pipemakers couldn’t put enough distance between themselves and mountain laurel pipe production fast enough.

The phrase “Imported Briar” became all the rage, and never again did US pipemakers attempt to grow or harvest briar — any kind of briar — ever again.

Just for the sake of reference, though, I should point out that nearly every single product on the market, right up until the 70s contained lead, asbestos, and so on. Heck, doctors used to put mercury thermometers in our mouths and not think a thing about it. A lot of this stuff, we just didn’t know any better.

But anyway, manzanita got caught up in all of this mess. It’s not poisonous, and it makes a fine smoking pipe, but who would want to take the risk, after that mountain laurel fiasco, huh?

You see, it’s kinda like mushrooms and toadstools. Nobody wants to pick mushrooms when there’s the significant risk that you might pick a few toadstools by mistake.

Why not just make soup and let other people worry about which one is a mushroom and which one is a toadstool?

Something like that, anyway.

So, just to recap, here:
* mountain laurel is poisonous;
* manzanita is NOT poisonous (somehow I feel like I am not emphasizing that enough)
* and after the war, the use of manzanita briar ended and the phrase “Imported Briar” became popular because US pipemakers had to disassociate themselves from the wartime practice of using mountain laurel as a substitute for Mediterranean briar.

So what do you think? Does that sound plausible?

And where is my deerstalker hat and my calabash pipe? I think I deserve a smoke.

Mike Leverette replied

Robert, my take on this subject is:

When briar was first used for pipes, everyone heralded it as the ultimate pipe wood and actually went wild over briar. In less than ten years from the first English maker to use briar, there were over a dozen briar pipe makers in London alone and all exclaiming the virtues of briar. Even the great salesman, Alfred Dunhill, exclaimed over the properties briar. So I believe everyone has, more or less, become brainwashed that briar is the only wood worth using for pipes. Surely, it is a great wood for pipes which I cannot say anything against but there are other great woods out there as well. We have been told many times over the past decade or so that briar is best for pipe making because it is A) ‘fire resistant,’ it is B) ‘very hard wood,’ it has C) ‘extremely tight grain,’ etc.

A) “Fire Resistant” – briar is wood and wood burns; there is no ‘fire resistance’ to it!
B) “Very hard wood” – yes it is hard, yet there are many woods out there which are harder per any hardness scale one wishes to use.
C) “Extremely tight grain” – again I agree. Briar has some tight grain, interesting grain and even beautiful grain. Yet there are woods out there with just as beautiful grain as briar.

The two alternative woods mentioned in this topic, manzanita and mountain laurel have been used for centuries, first by the American Indian and then the pioneers. Mountain Laurel was a favorite pipe making wood of soldiers on both sides during the War of Northern Aggression. Yes, before you ask, there were more wood pipes smoked in that war than clay pipes. Actually, the soldiers would make pipes from any wood handy but preferred mountain laurel. I am sure that the local population were using briar long before the fabled pilgrimage to Napoleon’s place of captivity, or was it his birth place? A very interesting article on pipes of other woods is Ben Rapaport’s article “Un-Briars: The Antecedents of Erica Arborea,” Spring 2001 issue of “Pipes and Tobaccos” in which Ben lists 29 different woods used for pipe making through the centuries.

Anyway, to stop preaching and return to the topic, brainwashed is too harsh a word for here but we have been treated to literature, word-of-mouth, etc about briar being the best and only wood for pipes to the point that immediately after WWII, everyone hasten to get briar pipes back on the market; hence forgetting about the two war-time substitutes.

Then again – – –
I wrote the above two days ago while waiting to be activated. During this time I have heard another pipe smoker state that he thought the pipes made from the two alternative woods, manzanita and mountain laurel, were placed into production so fast (because of the sudden stoppage in briar supply) that they were not cured properly which led to pipe smokers having problems with the pipes made from these woods. Therefore, the pipe smoking community of that day wished only for the imported briar after the war. This also makes a lot of sense!

_________________
Happy Puffing
Mike

Savinelli Autograph & Sherlock Restorations (3 & 4 of the Four Pipe group)


Back in September, I documented the restoration of two pipes in a four pipe set belonging to a friend in Ohio.  (Charatan Shape 44 and London Billiard)  Steve reminded me that I hadn’t submitted the final two pipes of that group.

The third pipe was this lovely Savinelli Autograph.  To this point, I had never seen an Autograph model in person and I was very impressed with the pipe.  As with the others in my friends group, this was also a very large pipe.

Here is the pipe as it was delivered to me.

This one definitely felt like a hand-made pipe.  The stem is wonderful and feels good in the hand, so I bet she’s a wonderful smoker.  In this group of pipes, this Autograph was the one least abused. The finish was a little grimy.  Removing the tar build up on the bowl top took some rubbing with first isopropyl  alcohol on a rag.  But, once removed, a beautiful birdseye top was revealed.  The bowl was buffed lightly with Tripoli, than white diamond and finished with several coats of carnuba

The stem took the usual steps and was deeply oxidized with some teeth chatter. I soaked the stem in an oxyclean solution for several hours with a dab of grease over the logo. I was able to preserve Gincarlo Savinelli’s stamp nicely. I sanded the stem (on the pipe) first with 1500 grit and then 2000 grit wet paper.  Next I buffed the stem with the final two grades of micromesh (8000 and 12000).  The stem was then polished on the buffer, with white diamond and then plastic polish.

I learned that Savinelli used vulcanite for the Autograph stem prior to 1982, when they switched to acrylic and 6 mm filters. I believe these pipes came from Smokers Haven in Ohio in the mid 70’s as my friends father lived in this area.

I didn’t weigh the pipe, but estimate it was approximately 90 grams.

Here is the finished pipe.  After handling this pipe, I would one day love to add a vulcanite stemmed Autograph to my collection.

The last pipe in the group was another large pipe, stamped simply “Sherlock”and “Made in Italy”. This one had a perspex stem, that had some stubborn staining but no teeth chatter. I removed a good bit but not all of the stain in the perspex. I use a bristle cleaner soaked in 90% isopropyl alcohol.  You must run a dry cleaner thru the perspex next to remove the alcohol which could fog the clear plastic.  The briar has a lovely golden glow with some faceted features on the bowl (ala Willmer?). I’m not familiar with this brand, but the briar is beautiful. The tars on top came off, just leaving a light scorch mark on the inner bowl rim.   I estimated this pipe weighed approximately 80 grams.


Here is a shot of all four finished pipes.


I also add pictures of these two GBD pipes, both Colossus models as they came from this estate and were gifted to me by this gentleman.  Both are treasured and enjoyed pipes in my collection and I was very happy to restore these other four for my friend.

GBD Seventy-Six Colossus, Shape 9676.

Prehistoric Oom-Paul Colossus:

As you can see, the gentleman who owned all six of these pipes had an affinity for large briar pipes!

 

 

Making a Rustication Tool out of a Phillips Screwdriver


Blog by Steve Laug

I have made several rustication tools from screwdrivers in my tool box. It is a pretty simple process so I thought I would document it through text and pictures. Hopefully some of you will find this useful.

I start with a regular Phillips screwdriver which is a screwdriver with a blunted pointed tip that is shaped to fit the crossed slots in the heads of Phillips screws. It is distinguished from a Reed and Prince screwdriver which has a pointed tip. The photos below show the tip of the screwdriver before I begin working on it.
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Rust2

You can choose any kind of Phillips screwdriver or Reed Prince screwdriver but I would recommend one with a comfortable handle. The one I made in the photos below has a hard plastic handle and when I am pushing and turning it into the briar it is hard on the palm of my hand so I wrap it in a thick cotton cloth for cushioning. You may wish to use one with a softer rubber coated handle to begin with.
rust3

A Dremel makes short work of the shaping and cutting process in crafting this tool. I use several Dremel bits to do the grinding. The first is an 11/16 x 3/8 inch Blue Cobalt Grinding Stone with a 1/8 inch shank. It is 2 inches in length from shaft to tip. The second is a 19/32 x 11/32 inch Brown Aluminum Oxide Cylinder Grinding Stone with a 1/8 inch shank. It is 1 1/2 inches in length from shaft to tip. I finish by polishing it with a sanding drum on my Dremel.

The next two photos show the Cobalt grinding stone on the Dremel and the work of cutting the tip off and then cutting into the grooves of the cross mark.
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rust5

The next four photos show the finished work of the Cobalt grinding stone. I apologize for the poor quality of the photos but they give the idea of the process. The first photo show an end view of the four points beginning to be defined on the tip of the screwdriver. The next three photos show profile views of the tip at this point in the process. Once I get to this point it is time to change the grinding stone for the aluminum oxide stone.
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rust7

rust8

rust9

The next photo shows the aluminum oxide grinding stone in the Dremel and the work ready to begin in grinding the tip to sharper and more defined points. I do this with the grinding stone held at an angle to the tip so that I can cut valleys into the cross point of the tip.
rust10

The next series of photos show the tip of the tool in its finished condition after the aluminum oxide stone has been used to cut the grooves deeply and define the points of the tool. At this point in the process I switch to the sanding drum and polish the tip and burnish the edges of the teeth.
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rust12

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The tool is finished and ready to be used to rusticate the surface of the briar. The method is quite simple. The tip of the tool is pressed into the surface of the briar and then twisted and turned as it cuts grooves and valleys into the briar. This is done over the entire surface of the pipe or in selected areas. The beauty of this tool is that is can be used in very tight areas of the surface such as the angle of the bowl and shank union. You can also work it carefully to leaves unmarked surface as you wish.

Kirsten Generation 1, 1.5, 2, 3


Blog by Dave Whitney and Steve Laug

I wrote Dave Whitney for permission to use his material in this post. He wrote back granting that permission and asked that I credit it as coming from OLD BRIAR by Dave Whitney. Thanks Dave for allowing this information to be posted here. What follows is taken from correspondence with Dave that later became the article in his book.

Over the years I have had several Kirsten pipes of different ages and different composition. I have always found it difficult to tell the difference between the various pipes in terms of their age. I have ordered replacement parts from Kirsten in Seattle and I have also cannibalized older ones that I have here that are not useable. From these I have traded and bought others. One of the early ones I had stumped me in terms of the markings and stampings on the barrel and the bowl. I wrote to a fellow on one of the online pipe forums (I now know that it was Dave Whitney as I have since found an article by him on Kirsten pipes that I have read and have written to him. I kept the information he gave me and finally got around to editing it and putting it on the blog.) My questions to him revolved around how to tell age of Kirsten I had in my hands.

He replied with the below information. I found it very helpful and have not found other places to get this info so I thought I would post it here for all to use. (Since writing this I have found that Dave has developed the material in his book Old Briar – it should be consulted for more information).

“Kirsten’s are fun to try and figure out, especially when trying to buy then on eBay. Years ago, when I first started, I finally got a hold of a fellow who “Restored” Kirsten’s for quite a long time. He taught me about the Generation system, and it immediately made life easier. I could ask the seller to take the pipe apart and tell me about the O-rings. I could even call the company and refer to the Generation parts I wanted, and at that time they knew exactly what I was asking for…the last time I called was three years ago, so who knows now. This is all from memory……”

All Kirsten pipes are made up of five basic components – mouthpiece, radiator body or barrel, valve, bowl and bowl screw (a sixth component, the bowl ring, is found in many Kirstens. They were originally designed in 1936 by Professor Frederick Kirsten – the man who invented Boeing’s first wind tunnel – after he has been advised by his physician to stop smoking. Kirsten was looking for a way to trap the tars and moisture from tobacco and the Kirsten pipe was his solution.

Kirsten2

Generation 1 – 1936-1958
The wooden bowl on this generation connects directly to the metal barrel and there is no metal cup spacer. It is a pretty flush fit that goes flat against the barrel. On the underside of the metal barrel it is stamped with one or more of the following “Pat. Appl. For” (1936-38) and “Pats. & Pats. Pending” (1938-1958) over “Made in USA” – S” (or applicable size – S, M, L). There are no O-rings on the bit or metal shank insert. They came in the following models:

Straights

Companion First edition in rough finish.

S Standard 1st generation with full-length cooling fins

M Medium

L Large

A Aristocrat Extra large 1st generation

Generation 1.5 – transitional period – mid to late 50’s
This was an experimental stage. Kirsten realized that the bit and insert were prone to seizure as the condensate dried. This model always has O-rings on the metal insert, and later models can have O-rings on both. Same markings, as I remember it. There is no metal cup spacer under the bowl. This generation has O rings either on the valve or mouthpiece but no O rings on the other end. This transitional period is stamped “Pat. Pending” and “Pats. & Pats. Pending” some with “Made in U.S.A.  It seems like the company was using surplus parts to combine into this series of pipes. They came in the following models:

Straights

K Companion

M Medium

L Large

They came in a polished finish and later white Heritage finish. There were a few other Transition Models:

Thrifty – a nice early model with black offset valve that works in reverse. There is an O ring on valve but none on the stem

No Letter/No Name – This one is an unmarked short pipe with a different valve and O ring. There is not an O ring on stem

Generation 2 – 1958-1985
Markings on underside of metal shank “Made in USA XL” (or app. size) and “Pat. & Pats. Pending”. The presence of O rings on both the valve and the mouthpiece and the metal cup spacer under bowl are the biggest thing that separates the Generation 1 from the Generation 2 pipes. These O rings help provide a tighter seal when the stem and apparatus are inserted into the radiator stem. Instead of “O” rings, the machining of the Generation 1 pipes was so precise the fit was exact. This generation came in the following models:
Straights

K Companion

G Gem

S Sportsman

SX Sportsman Brass

M Mariner

MB Mariner Black

L Lancer

Quarter-Bents

A Aladdin

V Vagabond

CX Cavalier Brass

T Tyrolean

Full bents

W Westerner

B Beau Geste

P Premier

F Firesider

Generation 3 – 1985 to the present                                                                         

All current models stamped “Made in U.S.A.” and all have O rings on both the valve and stem. They come in the following models:

Straights

JX Jewel Brass

M Mariner

L Lancer

Quarter-Bents

RX Regent Brass

H Horizon

Full bents

EX Esquire Brass

DX Designer Brass

FOOTNOTE ON VARIATIONS IN LETTER DESIGNATIONS:  Generally speaking, the X added to a model letter like “S” stands for brass tone finish, i.e., “SX.” There is one exception to this: In the 1960s Kirsten made a brass tone model with an “Eternalum” finish that gave the brass tone an antiqued look. They were marked with a “X” designation following the model letter. The B added to a model letter like “M” stands for black finish, i.e., “MB.”

He ended his answer to the questions with this great note: “Now the fun part….this is how they came from the factory. What people did to them after they got them is what makes it an inexact science. Parts for the different sizes are not interchangeable, except for the bowls. I have a Gen 1 – M and -S…nothing interchanges but the bowls. If you get a Gen 1 that has been badly abused, you can end up losing either the bit or metal insert, or both, no matter what you do or how long you try.”

References used:

Whitney, Dave (2009) Old Briar – Pipe smoking on a budget. pipesbywhitney

http://www.kirstenpipe.com/

Dunhill Pipe Shapes – collated by Eric W. Boehm


Blog by Eric Boehm

This collated information was collected by Eric Boehm and Permission was granted to include it here on the blog. Many thanks to Eric for the information he has collected for us.

Briar & Leaf Followers,

For years, I have been interested in collecting and smoking Dunhill pipes. During this time, I have been an avid follower of the late John C. Loring, his collections, and his writings on the subject of Dunhill pipes. I have also tried to collect all of the published Dunhill catalogs. Despite the occasional listings of Dunhill pipe shapes in various catalogs, books and on the web, I had yet to come across a single complete list of published Dunhill pipe shapes. Thus, the impetus for the current listings.

The tables below follow a set pattern for each shape entry. First, the shape category is listed in bold, then, for each entry, I have provided the shape number, a short descriptor, group number estimate, size (inches), catalog presence, and the modern shape number equivalent.

Image

Shape Descriptor Group Size Catalog(s) Modern #

Billiards

31 Billiard, tapered bit 1 4¾” 1928, 1950 3
32 Billiard, tapered bit 1 5″ 1928, 50, 60, 69 3
34 Billiard, tapered bit (Dental) 2 5½” 1928, 50, 60, 69 3
35 Billiard, tapered bit (Dental) 3 5½” 1928, 50, 60, 69 3
35 Airstream billiard, tapered 3 5″ 1950, 1969 3
39 Billiard, saddle bit 3 5½” 1950, 1969 3
41 Billiard, tapered bit 1928 3
44 Billiard, oval shank, tapered 3 5¾ 1928, 50, 60, 69 3
57 Army mount billiard 3 6½” 1928, 50, 69 3
59 Billiard, tapered bit 4 5¾” 1928, 50, 69 3
60 Billiard, tapered bit 4 5½” 1928, 50, 60, 69 3
59 Bamboo billiard 4 5¾” 1950, 1969 3
60 Bamboo billiard 4 5½” 1950, 1969 3
59 Airstream billiard, tapered bit 4 5¾” 1950, 1969 3
60 Airstream billiard (Dental) 4 5½” 1950 3
64 Billiard, tapered bit 1 5½” 1950, 1969 3
66 Billiard, tapered, stand-up 1928
70 Army mount billiard 2 1928, 50, 69 3
72 Billiard, canted, oval, tapered 1928
92 Army mount billiard 4 1950, 1969 3
94 Army mount billiard (Dublin?) 1928
104 Billiard, canted, oval, tapered 4 5½” 1928,1950, 1969 3
105 Billiard, tapered bit 1 5¼” 1950, 1969 3
111 Billiard, tapered bit 3 5¼” 1950, 1960, 1969 3
113 Billiard, long tapered bit 2 5½” 1928, 50, 60, 69 3
114 Billiard, extended tapered bit 1 5¼” 1928, 50, 69 3
116 Billiard, extended tapered bit 1928
126 Billiard, tapered bit 1928
131 Billiard, diamond shank, tapered 1928
164 Billiard, tapered, stand-up 1928
171 Billiard, tapered, stand-up 1928
196 Billiard, tapered bit 4 5½” 1928, 1950, 1969 3
197 Billiard, extended tapered bit 4 6½” 1950, 1969 3
248 Billiard, tapered bit 1 5¼” 1950, 1960, 1969 3
249 Billiard, tapered bit 1 5¾” 1950, 1969 3
250 Billiard, long tapered bit 2 5¾” 1960, 1969 3
250 The Windscreen Pipe 2 5¾” 1960 3
251 Billiard, tapered bit (Relief bit) 3 5¾” 1950 3
251 Airstream billiard, tapered bit 4 5¾” 1950 3
251 The Windscreen Pipe 5 5¾” 1950, 1969
252 Billiard, tapered bit 4 5¾” 1950, 1969 3
253 Billiard, tapered bit 4 57/8″ 1950, 1969 3
260 Billiard, tapered bit 2 5½” 1950, 1969 3
305 Riding or Sport 2 3¼ 1928, 1950, 1969 3
332 Billiard, canted, oval 1928
335 Billiard, canted, oval 1928
576 Billiard, saddle bit 1 5″ 1950, 1960, 1969 3
577 Billiard, saddle bit 2 4¾” 1950, 60 (5″), 69 3
632 Billiard, saddle bit 1 5¼” 1950, 1969 3
634 Billiard, saddle bit 2 5¼” 1950, 1969 3
635 Billiard, saddle bit 3 5¾” 1950, 1969 3
635 The Windscreen Pipe 3 1969 3
659 Billiard, saddle bit 4 5½” 1950, 1969 3
660 Billiard, saddle bit 4 5½” 1950, 1969 3
710 Billiard, tapered bit 4 5½” 1950, 1969 3
715 Scandinavian billiard 2 5″ 1950, 1969 3
LB Billiard, large, tapered bit 4 5¾” 1928, 1950, 1969 3
LBS Billiard, large, tapered bit 4 6½” 1950, 1969 3

Bent Billiards

50 Bent billiard army shank 1928 2
51 Bent billiard army shank 1928 2
52 Bent billiard, short cut bowl 1928 2
53 Bent billiard 3 5¼” 1928, 50, 60, 69 2
53 Bent Windscreen Pipe 3 1969
54 Bent billiard 2 4¾” 1928, 1950, 1969 2
56 Bent billiard 4 5½” 1928, 50, 60, 69 2
120 Bent billiard, large 4 6″ 1950, 1969 2
121 Bent billiard, oval shank 2
132 Bent billiard, straight sided bowl, 1928 2
306 Bent billiard, large round brandy 1928 2
321 Bent billiard, large flat bowl, 2
329 Bent billiard, large round apple bowl 1928 2
LC Bent billiard, very large, quaint shape 1928 2

Apples

67 Apple triangular shank stand-up, angled tapered bit 1928 1
85 Apple, round shank, reg. tapered bit 1928 1
97 Army mounts (silver) straight apple 1928 1
98 Army mounts (silver) straight apple 1928 1
107 Apple, tapered bit 3 5¼ 1928, 1950, 1969 1
110 Apple, long tapered bit 1 5½” 1928, 1950, 1960 1
112 Apple, tapered bit 2 5¾” 1928, 1950, 1960 1
115 Apple, canted, extended tapered 1928 1
191 Apple, beveled, short shank, extended tapered bit 1928 1
256 Apple, long saddle bit 2 5¼” 1950, 1960 1
308 Apple Army Mount (Silver) push bit 1928 1
309 Apple Army Mount (Silver) push bit 1928 1
310 Apple Army Mount (Silver) push bit 1928 1
311 Apple Army Mount (Silver) push bit 1928 1
376 Apple, bowl canted forward, extended tapered bit 1928 1
K Apple, tapered bit 4 5¼” 1950, 1960 1

Pots

463 Pot, long tapered bit 2 5¾” 1950, 1960, 1969 6
501 Pot, tapered bit 3 5¾” 1950, 1969 6
R Pot, tapered bit, “Quaint” 4 5¼” 1928, 50, 60, 69 6

Princes

258 Prince, apple-like, long straight
tapered bit 1 5¾” 1950, 1960, 1969 7
314 Prince, slightly bent tapered 2 6¼” 1950, 1969 7
315 Prince, straight tapered bit 2 6¼” 1950, 1969 7
FE Prince, large, squat apple-like bowl (Quaint in 1928) 4 6½” 1928, 1950, 1969 7
FET Prince (upright) large squat applelike bowl (Quaint in 1928) 4 6¼” 1928, 50, 60, 69 7

Canadians

335 Canadian, oval shank, short tapered bit 3 5¾” 1928, 1950, 1969 9
EC Canadian, oval shank, short tapered bit (Quaint in 1928) 4 5½” 1928, 1950, 1969 9
850 Canadian, over-sized OD850, Giant, short tapered bit 8¾ 1950, 1969 9

Liverpools

33 Liverpool, tapered 2 5¼” 1928, 50, 60, 69 10
36 Liverpool, large, tapered 4 5½” 1928, 50, 60, 69 10
331 Liverpool, long shank, tapered 3 6″ 1950, 1969 10

Lovats

37 Lovat, short, thick, saddle 1928 11
38 Lovat, long shank, saddle bit 3 4¾” 1928, 50, 60, 69 11
40 Lovat, long shank, saddle bit 4 5″ 1928, 1950, 1969 11
481 Lovat, long shank, saddle bit 1 5″ 1950, 1969 11

Dublins

42 Dublin, tapered bit 3 5½” 1928, 50, 60, 69 5
43 Dublin, tapered bit 2 4¾” 1928, 50, 69 5
65 Dublin, tapered bit 1928
73 Dublin, tapered bit 1928
77 Dublin, tapered bit 1928
130 Dublin, long tapered bit 1 6¼” 1928, 1950, 1969 5
137 Dublin, long tapered bit 4 6¼” 1950, 1969 5
140 Dublin, peg, round shank 1928
142 Dublin, tapered bit 4 5¾ 1928, 1950, 1969 5
143 Dublin, long tapered bit 1928
178 Dublin full bent 1928

Bulldogs & Rhodesians

45 Bulldog, ringed, diamond shank, straight saddle 1928 4
46 Bulldog, +/- ringed, diamond shank, straight tapered 2 5″ 1950, 1960, 1969 4
47 Bulldog, +/- ringed, diamond shank, straight tapered 3 5″ 1928, 1950, 1969 4
48 Bulldog, +/- ringed, diamond shank, straight saddle 4 5¼” 1928, 50, 60, 69 4
OX Bulldog, ringed, diamond shank, straight saddle 4 5¼” 1928, 50, 69 4
69 Bulldog, ringed, diamond shank, short saddle bit 1928 4
88 Bulldog, non-ringed, diamond shank, tapered bit 1928 4
146 Bulldog, ringed, diamond shank, slight bent tapered bit 1928 4
148 Bulldog, ringed, diamond shank, straight saddle 3 5¼” 1950, 1969 4
156 Bulldog, ringed, diamond shank, tapered bit 1928 4
189 Bulldog, non-ringed, large, tall bowl, diamond shank, tapered bit 1928 4
190 Bulldog, non-ringed, large, short bevelled bowl, diamond shank, tapered 1928 4
721 Scandinavian Bulldog, elevated bowl, 3-ringed, extended bent, saddle bit 5¼” 1950, 1969

?O Straight Rhodesian, ringed, diamond shank, tapered bit 4 5″ 1928, 50, 60, 69 17
P Bent Rhodesian, ringed, diamond shank, tapered bent bit 4 5¾” 1928, 50, 69 8
PO Rhodesian, slightly bent, tapered, non-ringed 3 51/2 ? ?
6P Bent Rhodesian, ringed, diamond shank, bent saddle bit 5½” 1960 8
145 Straight Rhodesian, ringed, short diamond shank, tapered bit 1928 17
334 Bent Rhodesian, ringed, diamond shank, bent saddle bit 1928 8
344 Rhodesian, ringed, squat bowl, diamond shank, extended bent tapered bit (Prince) 1928 7?
580 Straight Rhodesian, non-ringed, squat bowl, saddle bit 4 1969 17

Pokers

90 Poker “Stand-up” 2 4¾” 1928, 1950, 1969 22
95 Poker “Stand-up” Army bit 1928
475 Friendly 4 5½” 1960
6475 Friendly (=475?) 4 5½” 1950, 1969
483 Poker with cane stem 6½ 1960

Zulus

49 Zulu, straight round stem, tapered bit 1928 21
83 Zulu, oval shank, slightly bent tapered bit 3 5½” 1928, 1950, 1969 21

Miscellaneous

320 Evening Dress (Pot) 4 4½” 1950, 1960, 1969
misc. Dri-way billiard (screw bowl) 4 5¼” 1950, 1960
misc. Cavalier shape 4 6¼” 1950, 1960
misc. Calabash 7″ 1950
misc. Churchwarden 4 10¼” 1950, 1960
misc. “The Bamboo Bent”, bent saddle bit 7½” 1960
misc. “The Bijou”, small bowl, long tapered bit 5″ 1960
misc. Leather covered 4 1950, 1969

Letter Shapes

SS “Quaint Shape” Billiard hexagonal shank & tapered bit 1928
EC “Quaint Shape” Canadian, oval shank, short tapered bit 1928
FR “Quaint Shape” Octagonal panel billiard, round shank, extended tapered bit 1928
OE “Quaint Shape” Octagonal panel billiard, square shank, angled tapered bit 1928
EK “Quaint Shape” Hexagonal panel billiard, square shank, angled tapered bit “Stand-up” 1928
VT “Quaint Shape” tirangular panel billiard, tirangular shank and bit “Stand-up” 1928
SA “Quaint Shape” octogonal tall panel billiard, hexagonal shank, angled bit “Stand-up” 1928
GD “Quaint Shape” Circular tall billiard, ringed low at bowl base, round shank and bit 1928
PK “Quaint Shape” Four sided panel billiard, diamond shank and bit 1928
PL “Quaint Shape” Four sided panel billiard,triangular shank and bit 1928
EL “Quaint Shape” Four sided panel billiard, triangular shank and bit 1928
FJ “Quaint Shape” Cutty, canted round bowl, extended tapered bit 1928
KS “Quaint Shape” Apple, flattened bowl support peg “Stand-up” 1928
K “Quaint Shape” Round Apple, converging rim, round shank, tapered bit 1928
FE “Quaint Shape” Apple, large squat bowl, round shank, extended tapered bit 1928
FET “Quaint Shape” Apple, large squat bowl, round shank, extended tapered bit 1928
E “Quaint Shape” Army mount (silver) large squat bowl, round shank, extended tapered bit 1928
ET “Quaint Shape” Army mount (silver) large squat bowl, round shank, extended tapered bit 1928
EK Paneled billiard 1950, 1969

343 Inverted low-slung bowl, narrow rim, round shank and tapered bit 1928

ODA Shapes (From: John C. Loring, http://loringpage.com/pipearticles/ODchart.htm)

801 Belge, Cocked bowl (5) large for shape – early dating, rare
802 Bent Antique, spur (4) ‘70s/’80s with non ODA #s – early dating, rare
803 Odd Bent (4) – early dating, rare
804 Odd Bent (4) – early dating, rare
805 Skater (4) CH shape – early dating, rare
806 Apple, Tapered Bit
818 Oom Paul (5) – early dating, rare
821 Danish Bent (4) ‘70s/’80s with non ODA #s – early dating, rare
824 Brandy Glass – early dating, rare
827 Rhodesian, Small – early dating, rare
830 Liverpool – early dating extremely rare
831 Bent, Cocked bowl (4) ‘70s/’80s with non ODA #s – early dating, rare
832 Lovat – early dating quite rare
833 Danish Style Bent – early dating, rare
834 Prince – early dating quite rare
835 Billiard, Tapered Bit
836 Square Panel
837 Bulldog
838 Straight Rhodesian – early dating, rare
839 Qtr Bent Rhodesian – early dating, rare
840 Bent Billiard – (= 846?) early dating, rare
841 Lovat – early dating, rare
842 Apple, Saddle Bit –early dating, rare- (later stamped 6806)
843 Billiard, Saddle Bit -early dating, rare – (later stamped 6835)
844 Poker – early dating , rare
845 Canadian, Large Bowl
846 Bent Apple, Saddle – (= 840?) early dating rare
847 Rhodesian, Quarter Bent, Round Shank – early dating, rare
848 Dublin
849 Stacked Billiard – less thin & shorter than 856 – early dating, rare
850 Canadian, Small Bowl
851 Canadian, Small Bowl, Extra Long – early dating, rare
853 Pot – early dating rare
854 Rhodesian, Full Bent – early dating, rare
855 Canadian, Large Bowl, Extra Long – early dating, rare
856 Stack Billiard – is thinner & taller then the 856 – early dating, rare
857 Bent Brandy – early dating quite rare
861 Angled Squat Panel Bowl, Tapered Square Shank – early dating, rare
862 Dublin Panel – early dating, rare
863 Squat Panel, Front Bottom Curve (4) – early dating extremely rare
865 Angled Convex Rectangular Panel (5) – ‘70s/’80s in Shell finish, rare
866 Square Bowl (4) – early dating, rare

Two Alternative Pipe Woods – Robert M. Leverette


Blog by Robert Mike Leverette

A dear friend of mine penned this article on alternative pipe woods before he died. I know it has been posed elsewhere but I wanted to pass on what he has written as I have found it informative and helpful as I navigate alternative woods. In honour of Mike’s memory I post this article that he wrote 21 Dec. 2006.

Throughout tobacco history, there has been a bewildering number of materials used for making pipes.  Among these materials are; stone, clay, porcelain, glass, various metals and of course woods, such as briar; the burl of the Erica Arborea or White Heath.  Woods of different species have been used for centuries from reeds used by the American Indian, as well as, young boys for their first smoking experiences, (such as my first reed pipe I made and smoked when only 13 years old in 1952) to many different hard woods.  Some of the well known woods used as alternatives to briar are wild olive and black thorn by Johann Slabert, bog oak by Peterson and Morta by Trever Talbert, Rosewood by the Exotic Pipe Company and now peach root pipes by modern Russian makers.

Several alternative woods are discussed in “Pipes In Other Woods” by T. C. Fuller (Fuller 2005) with pipes of some of these woods found on his web site www.tcfullerpipes.com.  Mr. Fuller lists the following woods along with some of his observations:  Cherry; Apple; Olive; Hawthorn root; Maple burl; Black Palm; Myrtle; Walnut; Curly Ash; Ebony; and Pawlonia.  Mr. Fuller states that his olive wood pipes sweated tobacco juices by quoting a friend of his;
“He has smoked the pipe extensively and had this to say about it: “This particular olive has very thin walls.  During the pipe’s breaking in, I noticed that residue was seeping through its walls, (…).”

I have not had an olive wood pipe to sweat, maybe because I like my tobaccos on the dry side.  Mr. Fuller and I have had the same experience with Black Walnut; it gives a pleasing nutty flavor to your smoke.
Another excellent article on alternative woods is Ben Rapaport’s “Un-Briars” (Rapaport 2001) in which he lists 29 woods, from Acacia to Walnut, used primarily by early European pipe makers and peoples who, by my thoughts, are probably still using these woods for personal pipes.

Then too, there is the article by Chuck Stanion “From Beechwood to Briar” (Stanion 2001) in which, by giving the history of Stanwell pipes, he writes of Poul Nielsen making pipes of Beechwood in 1942 due to the war shortage of briar.  These Beechwood pipes were under the name of Kyringe pipes.

Why haven’t these woods, or at least a few of these woods, gained as much popularity as has briar?  The general consensus is that they are not as durable as briar.  Well, what is it about briar that gives its durability?  Again the general consensus is briar owes its durability to its hardness but we all know there are woods mentioned above that are harder than briar by the Janka and other scales.

There are two woods that I think can compete with the durability of briar, or at least, very close, and they are Manzanita and Mountain Laurel.  A briar pipe may last several life times while pipes of these two woods may last half a life time shorter, but only if  they are taken care of as lovingly as briar pipes.  Both of these woods were used in the United States during World War II when briar was impossible to obtain.  Pipes of these two woods that I have come across are excellent smokers and are in excellent condition considering that over sixty years have elapsed since they were made. I expect they will last for many more years.  These two alternative woods are more thoroughly reviewed below.

Manzanita or Mission Briar

Though Manzanita was used for pipes during World War II and for a couple of years after that conflict; Wikipedia does not list smoking pipes as one of its usages.  Wikipedia gives the following description for the wood (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manzanita):
“The Manzanitas are a subgenus of the genus Arctostaphylos. They are evergreen present in the chaparral biome of western North America, where they occur from southern British Columbia in Canada, Washington to California and New Mexico in the United States, and throughout much of northern and central Mexico. They are characterized by smooth, orange or red bark and stiff, twisting branches. There are about 60 species of manzanita, ranging from ground-hugging coastal and mountain species to small trees up to 6m tall. Manzanitas bloom in the winter to early spring and carry berries in spring and summer. The berries and flowers of most species are edible, though not particularly tasty.”

Bill Feuerbach in his excellent article on the history of “S. M. Frank & Co., Inc.” (Feuerbach 1977) had this to say about Manzanita:
“During World War II, getting briar imported into this country was not easy. Italian and French briar couldn’t be had until very late in the war. Kaywoodie was able to import 1400 5-gross bags of briar (about 1,000,000 blocks) out of North Africa in 1943 after the German army was defeated there. Early in 1941, Kaywoodie embarked on a project of domestically grown briar wood, called Mission Briar. This wood is botanically the same as Mediterranean briar. The Pacific Briarwood Company, a KBB subsidiary, began harvesting the burl type wood growing on the slopes of the Santa Cruz Mountains of California. However, the smoking characteristics were not quite as good and the project was abandoned after the war.”

We do know that there were at least three brands of pipes using Mission Briar, a marketing ploy for manzanita to capitalize on the name briar.  They were; Kaywoodie, Monterey and Reiss Premium pipes.  Though Mr. Feuerbach does not actually say that Kaywoodie pipes were made from Mission Briar during those years, it is implied in his history.  Monterey Pipes were also owned and made by Kaywoodie.  Within my collection, I have two Monterey Specimen Grain Mission Briar pipes; a bulldog and a billiard; both great smokers though I am not a fan of metal condensers; thus leaving me at a loss to understand his comment, “However, the smoking characteristics were not quite as good (…).”  Maybe it is just my old abused pallette coming into play!

Mountain Laurel

Mountain Laurel was also used for pipes during the war and for a couple of years after that conflict; and again, Wikipedia does not list smoking pipes as one of its usages.  Wikipedia gives the following description for the wood (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mountain_Laurel):

“Kalmia latifolia (Mountain-laurel) is a flowering plant in the family Ericaceae, native to the eastern United States, from southern Maine south to northern Florida, and west to Indiana and Louisiana. It is an evergreen shrub growing to 3-9 m tall. The leaves are 3-12 cm long and 1-4 cm wide. Its flowers are star-shaped, ranging from red to pink to white, and occurring in clusters. It blooms between May and June. All parts of the plant are poisonous.  The plant is naturally found on rocky slopes and mountainous forest areas. The plant often grows in large thickets, covering large areas of forest floor.  It is also known as Ivybush, Calico Bush, Spoonwood (because native Americans used to make their spoons out of it), Sheep Laurel, Lambkill and Clamoun.”

Though Wikipedia states that “All parts of the plant are poisonous,” other botanical sources state that only the leaves are poisonous, and here poisonous would be in reference to cattle and sheep eating the leaves with fatalities depending on the quantity consumed.  The milk from cows will also be toxic, though not necessarily fatal, to humans drinking said beverage.

There were at least three pipe brands made from the Mountain Laurel; Trapwell, Breezewood and Custombilt.  Trapwell pipes were made by D & P Pipe Works beginning on or before 1943.  D & P Pipe Works, owned by D. P. Levitas (Ross 2005), began making pipes in 1938 (Wilczak and Colwell 1997) probably in New York City but relocated to Sparta, Alleghany County, North Carolina in 1943 (Sparta/Alleghany CoC 2006), in order to be closer to the huge population of Mountain Laurel in the area.  Later, this company changed their name to Sparta Pipe Works and still later to Sparta Industries.  I have one Trapwell World’s Best Briar  pipe in my collection, a small billiard, and here again, it is a great little smoker.  World’s Best Briar was their marketing ploy for Mountain Laurel.  Trapwell’s ‘trap’ is a highly complicated condensing system when compared to most regular metal condensers.  After the war, Trapwell pipes were made from regular briar wood, or “imported briar” until their demise.

According to a 1942 Life magazine advertisement, Breezewood pipes were made by The Breezewood Pipe Company, located at 630 Fifth Avenue, New York City, though Wilczak and Colwell state the Breezewood pipes were made by Kaufmann Brothers & Bondy (KB&B) beginning in 1941 (Wilczak and Colwell 1997).  The Breezewood Pipe Company may have been a subsidiary of KB&B.  To quote the 1942 Life magazine advertisement;  “There, deep in the Great Smoky Mountains, they found it – found an uncharted virgin forest of burls, great old burls that had been growing there uncounted years.  And from these old burls, pipes of astonishing lightness of weight are made – their name: Breezewood.”

At the present time, this is all I have been able to find on the history of Breezewood pipes.  Here again, the one Breezewood pipe, a small billiard, I have in my collection is a great little smoker.  I am not overly fond of metal condensers and this Breezewood pipe has a simple tube condenser similar to Dunhill’s “innertube.“

It would be pure speculation on my part, for I have found no history of such, but Dr. Grabows could also have been made from the Mountain Laurel burls during the early World War II years.  I can find no exact date but Mary Linkman and Company (MLC) moved their Dr. Grabow operations to Charlotte North Carolina probably sometime in the 1940s.  Later in 1955, MLC sold Dr. Grabow pipes to Sparta Pipe Works which may indicate a past relationship of Dr. Grabow pipes with Mountain Laurel.  {emphasis mine — RJM}

In the Autumn 97 – Winter 1998 issue of “The Pipe Smoker’s Ephemeris is a 1979 letter from Claude L. Stuart, owner of Tracy Mincer pipes, to Mr. Fred C. Janusek in which he writes the following;
“The “convertible” pipe was made during World War II when briar was not available and was made largely from scrap briar. The word “imported briar” was deleted from some of the Custombilt pipes from this period because some of the pipes were made from rhodium found in the southern part of the United States. This was used until briar again became available from the Mediterranean Sea area.”

Though Mountain Laurel is not a rhododendron, some people in the south refer to it by rhododendron and the above ‘rhodium’ is probably a misspelling of the word.

Comparisons – My Personal Observations

In comparing pipes of the two woods (Manzanita and Mountain Laurel), the manzanita pipes appear to be heavier in weight and darker in coloring than the mountain laurel pipes though both manzanita conditions could be from heavier smoking resulting in more tobacco juices absorbed in the wood.  Coloring of course could also depend on the stain used.  I readily admit that all of my pipes of these two woods were purchased on the estate pipe market, so I have no idea as to how much each pipe was smoked before they came into my possession.  They both smoke equally great with my briars in that department.  As to durability; pipes of these woods may not be as durable as briar but I am sure they will last a couple of life times if taken care of properly.

In comparing the grain of the two woods to that of briar, they have as pretty and as interesting grain as briar though the birds-eye is not as tight. Both the Mission Briar and the Mountain Laurel pipes smoke Latakia blends (my favorites), Virginia and Virginia-perique tobaccos as well as my briars and olive woods, but again, this could be due my pallette.  In summary, it is puzzling to me why Manzanita and Mountain Laurel loss so much favor in the pipe making world.  Makers bowing to the demand for briar can be the only answer though I am sure pipes of these woods would still sell to the dyed-in-the-wool pipe smokers and collectors of today.

References Cited:
Feuerbach III, Bill – 1977; http://www.smfrankcoinc.com/history/index.htm
Fuller, T. C.- 2005, April issue; “The Pipe Collector” See also, www.tcfullerpipes.com
Rapaport, Ben – 2001, Spring issue; “Pipes and Tobaccos”
Ross, Stephen A. – 2005, Spring issue; “The Doctor is In,” Pipes and Tobaccos
Sparta NC Chamber of Commerce – 2006; http://sparta-nc.com/chamber/history.htm
Stanion, Chuck – 2001, Summer issue; “Pipes and Tobaccos”
Wilczak, Herb and Tom Colwell – 1997; “Who Made That Pipe?”

Appreciation
I would like to express my appreciation to the following for their help:
Benjamin Rapaport; The Nicotian Network & Nexus (Antiquarian Tobbaciana Publication)
Jim Wagner with the Wyoming County NY Sheriff’s Department
James J. Shive of Legacy Consulting Services; Contract Archaeologist

Banding a cracked shank – Pressure fitting a metal band on a pipe shank


Blog by Steve Laug

There are many options in terms of the bands that can be used to repair a cracked shank or to give a cosmetic facelift to a pipe shank. Pipe Makers Emporium carries nickel, silver and gold bands in both short and long lengths. They also carry end caps should you want to use an end cap on a pipe or do a repair on a Peterson pipe. I have included pictures of the options that you can choose with regard to bands. I personally purchased the nickel banding assortment that is in the first photograph. It gives you a wide range of diameter bands that can be used. From this I then replenished the areas that I needed more and also added some silver, gold and end caps to the lot. This set up has worked for me for many years and I just add as necessary.
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Pipe Makers Emporium also sells a banding tool that they advertise as making banding more simple. I have not used the tool as I find that my method works well for me. I will detail my procedure below and include photos of the process.
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My process for banding a pipe will be seen in the following photos and the accompanying description of the work.

The pipe that I needed to band had a crack in the shank at the top. You can see the length of the crack. I always clean it out with a dental pick and drip some superglue into the crack and squeeze it together with a clamp that has rubber on the teeth. Once the glue is dry – which is actually very quick – I choose a proper band (in the case of the pipe that I picture below it is a 13.5mm nickel band). The ideal choice is a band that is approximately the same size as the diameter of the shank. You do not want it too large as it will slide when the pipe is disassembled or heated. You also want one that will bind together the crack in the shank. The 13.5mm was perfect and matched the size of the shank.
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I place the band on the end of the shank – in this case it only fit minimally along ¾ of the band. One edge was too tight to fit. I heat the band with a heat gun, being careful not to burn wood – this generally only takes a few moments.
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I then pressed the shank into the band on a piece of soft carpet that is on a solid table top. Do not force the fit as a heated band will tear. Reheat it until it is pliable enough to fit the shank well. When you are satisfied as to the fit and placement of the band, cool the band slowly before proceeding to work on the edges. I use room temperature water and dip the end of the shank with the band into the water. If you use the tool here you can press the end into the bowl at the end of the tool to round the edges and make for a nice fit. I use a piece of tightly woven wool carpet and twist the end of the banded shank into the carpet. In my opinion this does the same thing as the shank tool.
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When the band is in place the pipe is ready for the stem to be refitted. Often the tenon will need to be reduced in diameter to fit the tightened shank. In the case of this pipe I needed to fit a stem as the bowl did not come to me with its stem. I used sandpaper to turn the tenon down to size on an older stem that I had in my jar of stems. The next series of photos show the band in place on the shank. It is pressure fit and it is tight and immovable. The third photo shows the top view of the shank and you will notice that the crack that was very visible before is now no longer visible. The fourth and fifth photos show an end view of the fit of the band. It is flush with the end of the shank so that the new stem will fit snugly in place.
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The next series of four photos show the new stem that is fitted to the pipe. There is still some oxidation that needs to be removed from it but you can see the fit and finish of the stem and the banded shank.
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Restemmed a Couple of Interesting Smaller Uniques


I am posting pictures of two pipes that I finished up that needed new stems. I am putting them into one post as I did the two of them at the same time. The first is unique in terms of cut and shape of the bowl. The second is unique in terms of its size.

The first is a no name spiral cut piece of briar that is unique in terms of the cut and shape. It is almost like a cylinder on a motor in terms of defusing the heat from the bowl. I have smoked it and it does not heat up at all no matter how I puff on it. I used a pre-moulded stem that I turned the tenon on and cut to fit with a Dremel. I chose the saddle stem because of the look of the profile. I sanded it with 280 grit sandpaper until smooth and then followed up with my usual combination of 400 and 600 grit wet dry sandpaper and micromesh pads from 1200-12000 grit.
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This is the second pipe that I restemmed in this series of pipes. It also is a no name brand. There is no stamping on the bowl. It is 4 inches in length but has a full sized bowl. It is a great little pocket pipe. It has a beautiful sandblast that is rustic and deep. I also used a pre-moulded stem that I turned the tenon on and cut to fit with a Dremel. I chose the saddle stem because of the look of the profile. I sanded it with 280 grit sandpaper until smooth and then followed up with my usual combination of 400 and 600 grit wet dry sandpaper and micromesh pads from 1200-12000 grit. Once it fit well I heated it with my heat gun and bent it with a slight downward angle.

Both pipes were buffed with White Diamond (most attention to the stem) and then given multiple coats of carnauba to the stems. I used Halcyon II wax on the sandblast bowl and carnauba on the finned bowl to give them a sheen.

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New Life for a BBB Ultima Thule Pocket Billiard


Blog by Steve Laug

I picked up this little BBB in the same lot as the little BBB bulldog that I posted about recently. It is a similar pocket size (4 and ½ inches) and needed a bit of work. It is stamped BBB in the standard diamond and over that Ultima Thule. (According to Wikipedia the name refers to any distant place beyond the known world.) Under the diamond it is stamped Own Make. The first two pictures are the EBay seller’s photos. When the pipe arrived I can honestly say that the seller did a great job on taking honest photos. The pipe was solid but in rough shape. The rim was slanted toward the front and round all the way around with many nicks and dents in it from tamping the pipe out. It was still round on the inner edge which is pretty amazing on these old timers. This was a pretty well cared for pipe other than the tamping. The finish was dirty and spotty – lighter in some places than others – with a mottled look to it. The stem was oxidized and the edge/ shoulder at the shank junction was rounded and no longer a good smooth fit. There were no bite marks on the stem and the surface was smooth under the oxidation. This would not be a bad clean up.
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I separated the stem and bowl and reamed the bowl. I wiped the exterior with acetone to remove the remaining finish and the grime. Then I placed the bowl in the alcohol bath to soak while I worked on the stem.

The stem actually was relatively easy to clean up. I wiped it down with a damp magic eraser and removed the majority of oxidation. Then I sanded it with 400 and 600 grit wet dry sandpaper followed by 1200-6000 grit micromesh sanding pads. I gave it a coating of Obsidian Oil and set it aside to dry. Once the bowl was finished I would buff them together. I did not want to chance rounding the edges even more. I also did not want to lose any more of the button on the pipe stem by over buffing.

I removed the bowl from the alcohol bath after 1 hour of soaking. I dried it off and cleaned out the shank with pipe cleaners, shank brush and cotton swabs soaked in isopropyl alcohol. I worked those until they came out clean. I used sandpaper on the interior of the bowl to smooth out the remaining cake and clean the surface. I wiped it down with cotton swabs and isopropyl afterwards. I used the sanding board and paper to top the bowl and bring it back to a flat and even condition. I did not have to remove very much of the top but I wanted it to be straight and not slanted toward the front. I used my normal variety of sandpapers (280, 400 and 600) to do this and finished it with micromesh sanding pads 1200-6000 to remove the remaining scratches. I wiped down the bowl with a cotton pad dampened with acetone to remove any sanding dust and remnants of the topping process. I restained this bowl with an oxblood stain thinned with isopropyl to arrive at the original colour. I flamed the stain and when dry took it to the buffer and gave it a buff with White Diamond.

I reinserted the stem and the gap and roundness of the shoulders on the stem made a smooth fit impossible to attain. I decided to use an old BBB band that I had in my box and heated it and pressure fit it to the shank. I liked the finished look of the pipe. I gave the entirety several coats of carnauba wax and a polishing buff with a clean flannel buffing pad. The pictures below show the finished product.
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Refurbished – A Stunning New Look for a Butz Choquin Billiard


I picked up this old Butz Choquin in a lot I was given by a friend and it was in very rough shape. I somehow neglected to take any pictures of what the pipe looked like when it arrived. But it came stem less and the rim was ruined. It had been hammered on concrete or something like that as it was stippled and rough. The inner rim was ruined as it seemed to have been reamed with a pocket knife and it was cut and grooved at all different angles. To have topped it I would have had to lose almost a half an inch on the pipe. In my opinion that would have ruined the billiard profile and created a pot shape. I decided to try something different on this one. The finish was shot as well and the stain was gone. It was a dull brown with much dirt and grime ground into the surface of the briar.

I reamed the pipe with a PipNet reamer (like a Castleford T handle reamer) to even the sides of the bowl and smooth out the inner surface. I wiped the bowl down with acetone to clean off the grime and grit. Once it was clean I hunted down a stem blank that would work on a pipe with this sized shank. I cut the tenon with my Pimo tenon turner and shaped the stem to a clean fit with my Dremel. Then I took the bowl and dropped it in the alcohol bath while I worked on the stem. I sanded the stem to remove the scratches left by the Dremel. I also shaped the button a bit to change the shape and open up the slot to an oval.

I took the bowl out of the bath and dried it off. I gave it another wipe down with the acetone to give me a clean surface to work on. I then went to work on the rim. I wanted to chamfer the rim inward toward the bowl to remove the damaged material and give it a different look. I topped the bowl first to get a smooth and even surface. From there I sanded the inner edge of the rim with a folded piece of sandpaper (280 grit). I use a one inch square piece of sandpaper folded into quarters. Then I set the angle I want to have on the chamfer by the way I hold the paper. I sanded it until I got it at the angle I wanted and removed the damaged material. Once I had the angle right I then changed the grade of sandpaper sanding it with 400 and 600 grit wet dry and then with the micromesh sanding pads from 1500 to 6000 grit.

At that point I put the stem back on the pipe and sanded it until the transition between the shank and the stem was smooth. I wanted it to be a fit that appeared to be seamless. Once I had that done and had sanded the stem smooth with the various grades of micromesh sanding pads I took it to the buffer to give the stem a shine. I brought it back to my work table and sanded the bowl and shank until they were also smooth. I did not sand around the nomenclature as I wanted that to be intact.

I decided that I would give the bowl a contrasting stain finish. I heated the briar with a blow dryer to warm it up and open the grain on the bowl. Once it was warm I stained it with a black aniline stain. I flamed the stain and let it dry. I took it to the buffer and buffed it with Red Tripoli to remove the black stain from the surface of the briar. This takes off the extra black and leaves it in the softer grain of the briar. I sanded it again with 600 and 800 grit wet dry sandpaper and then buffed it again with White Diamond. I wanted contrast between the black that was deeply set in the grain and the harder smooth surfaces. Once that was done I wiped the bowl down with acetone to tone down the blacks and to clean off the surfaces that did not have the stain set in them. I restained the pipe with a Medium Brown aniline stain and flamed it as well. Once it was dry I buffed it with White Diamond to polish it. The whole pipe was then given multiple coats of carnauba wax and a finish buff with a soft, clean, flannel buffing pad.

While I liked the look of the pipe at this point I decided that it needed a bit of bling to finish it off. I have a box of bands here and found one the correct size – a nickel band that would add just the touch I was looking for. I heated the band with my heat gun and pressure fit it on the shank of the pipe. The finished product is in the photos below. This pipe found a new home with a friend on one of the online forums. I am sure he has enjoyed it as it was a great smoking machine.

The verdict is yours is the new look stunning or not?
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