Monthly Archives: September 2015

Cleaning up an Edward’s European Collection Apple


Blog by Steve Laug

The second Edward’s pipe from the box I received to clean up and sell to support Smokers was a beautiful smaller sized apple with an acrylic/Lucite stem. It is stamped Edwards in script on the right side of the shank and European Collection on the left side. There is no shape number on this pipe. The finish was dirty, the rim had less lava overflow than others that came with this collection but it was present. The bowl had a thick crumbly cake. All of these pipes tended to have stickiness to the cake that makes me think that the pipes were used for aromatics. The shank was dirty with tars and oils. The stem is black acrylic with dark green swirls throughout that are accentuated in the light. It is a bit thick which leads me to believe that the pipe came from the 70’s or 80’s era. It is a saddle stem with an integral tenon turned from the Lucite. It was dull from the oils and disuse. It would be interesting to see the colours once it was shined up.Paddy1

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Paddy4 I took a close-up photo of the bowl to show the cake and the state of the rim. Fortunately the rim had no damage on the outer or inner edge.Paddy5 I reamed the bowl with the PipNet pipe reamer and took the cake back to bare wood. Whatever the previous tobacco was the cake was soft and crumbly.Paddy6

Paddy7 I dampened the rim and scrubbed it with 0000 steel wool to remove the lava that was on the top edges. It worked really well and the rim was clean in no time at all. I wiped down the bowl with alcohol on a cotton pad to remove the grime and oil that was in the finish. It took off all of the grim and left me with some beautiful mixed grain around the bowl.Paddy8

Paddy9 I scrubbed out the interior of the bowl and the shank with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol to remove the tar and oil. I did the same with the stem and the chamfered tenon end.Paddy10

Paddy11 With the interior clean I turned my attention to the acrylic/Lucite stem. It had some light tooth chatter on the top and underside but was in pretty decent shape. The finish was dull and no longer smooth to the touch. I worked on it with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12000 grit pads. I buffed it with Tripoli and White Diamond after I finished with the 4000 grit pad and then finished with the last three pads. As I polished it with the pads you could begin to see the colours come through the stem. It is a beautiful piece of Lucite.Paddy12

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Paddy17 I buffed the bowl and the stem with Blue Diamond Plastic polish on the wheel and was amazed at the shine. I then gave the bowl and stem several coats of carnauba wax to protect it and give it a shine. I buffed it with a clean flannel buff and then hand buffed it with a mircrofibre cloth to raise depth to the shine. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. I have to tell you that so far I really like the two Edward’s pipes that I have cleaned up out of this lot. They seem to be ringing all of my bells. It will be hard to part with either of them 😉Paddy18

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Cleaning up a Lovely Edward’s Algerian Briar Bent Dublin that came across my table


Blog by Steve Laug
Label Logo_mediumI received this pipe in the mail with a box of 11 others and it is the first one that caught my eye. The shape was well executed. The bowl had a round crowned rim. The bend of the shank and the curve of the stem looked elegant. The bowl had a thick, sticky and crumbly cake that needed to be removed. The rim was covered with a thick coat of lava that had overflowed the bowl. The finish was a typical Edward’s natural briar – I think that they must have used a light tan/brown stain at one point that highlighted the grain but did not mask it. The grain was mixed with cross grain on the front right and back left. There was birdseye on the sides of the bowl and swirling circles of grain on the underside and up the shank. There were two small fills on the right side of the bowl near the shank bowl junction – almost two dots one above the other. There was also a larger fill on the underside of the shank. The pipe is stamped Algerian Briar in block text on the left side of the shank and Edward’s in script on the right side. On the underside mid shank it is stamped with a large 5. On the end of the shank next to the stem it is stamped with a 31. The large 5 is the bowl size and 31 is the shape number, though current production shows the shape as a 731. The stem was lightly oxidized and would not push all the way into the mortise. The fit was very tight. The inside of the shank had a thick coat of tar and oil on the walls of the mortise.Ed1

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Ed4 One of the packing peanuts was jammed into the bowl so I used the dental pick to remove. It left some crumbling pieces in the sticky aromatic cake in the bowl. In the first photo below you can see the tars on the rim of the bowl and the generally dull finish of the bowl.Ed5 I reamed the bowl with a PipNet reamer and took the cake back to bare briar. I wanted the new owner to be able to build a cake of their own choosing.Ed6

Ed7 I scrubbed the rim with 0000 steel wool to remove the lava on the top of the rim. I had seen Troy use that several times in his refurbs so I thought I would give it a go with this bowl. It worked extremely well. I wet the rim with a bit of water and then scrubbed it until the rim was clean.Ed8 I scrubbed out the interior of the bowl and the shank with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol. Ed9

Ed10 I scrubbed down the exterior of the bowl with the steel wool and also wiped it down with alcohol on a cotton pad. I removed the wax and grime from the finish. Once the shank was dry the stem fit snuggly in the mortise. The stem had some light tooth chatter at the button that would clean up quite easily. With the stem fitting well I took the next four photos to show what it was about the pipe that caught my eye.Ed11

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ED14 The stem did not need a lot of work to clean off the oxidation. I wet sanded the stem with 1500-2400 grit micromesh sanding pads. I rubbed it down with Obsidian Oil after the third pad and then continued to dry sand the stem with 3200-4000 grit pads. I rubbed it down again with another coat of oil and let it dry.Ed15

Ed16 I finished sanding it with 6000-12000 grit pads and then gave it a final coat of oil. I set it aside to dry. I buffed the stem with Tripoli and with White Diamond to remove the remnants of oxidation.Ed17 I buffed the stem and bowl with Blue Diamond Polish on the buffing wheel and then gave the pipe several coats of carnauba wax and buffed it with a soft flannel buffing pad. I took it back to the work table and hand buffed it with a microfibre cloth. The finished pipe is shown below.Ed18

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Bringing New Life to a Scarred Butz-Choquin Supermate Major


Nice job on rusticating and blending in the repaired shank. Did you ever figure out why the fills you were doing would not stick? That is curious.

Charles Lemon's avatar

This pipe immediately caught my attention when I first unpacked the auction lot. Pictured in the top left corner of the pipe lot pic below, this Butz-Choquin Supermate Major struck me by its elegant simplicity. No fuss, nothing fancy, just good grain, clean lines and a classic Lumberman shape characterized by its long, pinched-oval shank and saddle bit.

Estate Pipe Lot

Unlike many of its brethren in this lot, the Supermate was relatively clean with only a bit of grease & grime on the exterior, minor cake build-up in the bowl and a few small nicks on the rim. The stem had only minor oxidation but had other issues: the BC logo I assume used to be in the circle on top of the stem was long gone, and the button was worn down nearly flat and showed the remains of old tooth dents.

The flattened button and the poor condition of the…

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Repairing a stem on a beautiful little Dunhill Bruyere 3206 Pot


Blog by Steve Laug

On the work table at the moment is a beautiful little Dunhill Bruyere pot. It had some serious gnaw marks on the stem. There were tooth dents that were deep on the top and the bottom sides of the stem. Fortunately they did not penetrate the airway. The pipe is in great shape. The finish was in excellent shape. The rim was clean but had been lightened quite a bit. It had hardly been smoked so I am wondering if somewhere along the way it had been used as a prop and the individual had just bitten down hard!

I removed the stem from the bowl and gave the rim a quick clean and then a coat of an opaque aniline based oxblood stain that matches the Bruyere finish. I flamed it and set it aside to dry while I turned my attention to the damaged stem (unfortunately I was in grand rush to work on the stem and the pipe and forgot to take photos of the pipe when I received it. Instead you will have to trust the descriptions and look through the repairs).Dun1

Dun2 I used a dental pick to clean out the debris in the deep dents and the crack along the edge of the button. I used the heat gun to raise the dents as much as possible but sadly they were of the nature that the heat did not do much to raise them. I then wiped down the dents and crack with alcohol to remove any debris in the area to be repaired. I filled in the dents on both sides of the stem with black super glue. You can see in the next two photos the bubble of super glue next to the edge of the button. I decided to let it cure rather than use an accelerator so I set it aside to do so.Dun3

Dun4 Once the repair had cured (several hours later) I sanded the patches with 220 grit sand paper to blend them into the surface of the stem. I sanded the repair to the button as well to blend it in without changing the profile of the end of the stem.Dun5

Dun6 I sanded it with a medium and a fine grit sanding sponge to minimize the scratches left behind by the sandpaper and to further blend in the repair. I used a needle file to sharpen the edge of the button and then sanded it with 400 grit wet dry sandpaper and a little bit of water. You can see from the next two photos that the patches are blending into the stem nicely.Dun8

Dun9 I moved on to wet sanding the stem with 1500-2400 grit micromesh sanding pads. The scratches are disappearing and the patches are blending in to the point that if you did not know where they are you would not see them. I rubbed the stem down with Obsidian Oil before going further with the micromesh pads.Dun10

Dun11 I wet sanded the repairs with 3200-4000 grit micromesh pads to further blend in the repaired areas. I spent extra time working on the repair to the small crack on the top of the button. I wanted that spot to blend in well and be smooth to the touch.Dun12

Dun13 The repair to the top of the button and along the top side of the button needed a little more work to get them to be less visible and more blended. The repair on the underside was really looking good. I cleaned up the repair on the button and then used some clear super glue applied with the tip of a dental pick. Once it cured I sanded it with 220 grit sandpaper and then the same set of wet dry sandpaper and micromesh pads that I commented on above. Finally the repair blended well.Dun14

Dun15 I buffed it with Blue Diamond and gave it several coats of carnauba wax. I buffed it with a clean flannel buff and then hand buffed it with a microfibre cloth.Dun16

Dun17 The finished pipe is shown below. The darkening of the stain on the rim and the repaired stem are finished and the pipe is almost ready to send back to the owner.Dun18

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Fitting a Bowl to an Old Bakelite Base and Stem


Blog by Steve Laug

When I was in Idaho recently I ended up finding a lot of pipes and parts that I knew would come in handy in the months ahead. One of the parts I found was a no name Bakelite stem and base that was threaded for a bowl. There was no bowl to be found for it. The base is dark grey Bakelite and the stem is red Bakelite (maybe Redmanol). The threaded tenon was also Bakelite which surprised me. It was threaded to fit into the stem and into the shank which made adjusting the fit really simple. A turn of the tenon into the shank or into the stem is all it took to align the stem with the shank. I have always liked the looks of these old timers so whenever I find one I buy it. I figured somewhere along the way I would find a bowl for it. If not I could at least make a pressure fit bowl for it. I have a long weekend ahead of me with some time off so I decided to fiddle with it. I also had a plastic Falcon style stem that I decided would be scrap except for the bowl. The bowl is not briar but rather Maplewood I believe. It is hard and barely smoked so it would be a good candidate for a pressure fit bowl for the Bakelite pipe.Bakelite1 The bowl from the plastic Falcon style donor pipe had a threaded bowl bottom that was larger than the base of the Bakelite pipe. It would take some reworking to make it work. The bowl also had a thick varnish coat that was shiny and plastic looking like the base. That finish would have to go before it fit the look of the pipe I was working on.Bakelite2

Bakelite3 I reduced the diameter of the bowl bottom and removed the threads with a Dremel and sanding drum. I held the Dremel against the base and let it go around the base of the bowl with even pressure so that I could keep the base round. It took quite a few turns of the drum before I was able to get close to a fit. I finished by sanding the base of the bowl with a wood rasp to make sure that it sat flat against the Bakelite base and would also press into the threaded base.Bakelite4

Bakelite5 I pressed the bowl into place in the base and took the next two photos below. I then threaded the stem on the base and took a few more photos to give me a good idea of what the pipe would look like once I finished with the fit.Bakelite6

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Bakelite10 I removed the bowl from the base and wiped it down with acetone on a cotton pad to remove the finish. I wanted a natural finish on the bowl so I removed the varnish coat and took of the plastic looking shine.Bakelite11

Bakelite12 I wet sanded the Bakelite stem with micromesh pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-4000 grit pads and finished sanding it with 6000-12000 grit pads. I rubbed it down with Obsidian Oil after sanding with each set of three pads. I also rubbed down the base with Obsidian Oil.Bakelite13

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Bakelite15 I rubbed down the bowl with a light coat of Olive oil and let it dry into the wood. I gave the stem and the bowl a light had buff with a microfibre cloth and then took the following photos.Bakelite16

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Bakelite19 I buffed the pipe and bowl with Blue Diamond on the wheel and then give it multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed it with a clean flannel buff to give it a matte finish shine. I then hand buffed it with the microfibre cloth to give depth to the wood. The finished pipe is shown below. It is ready for its inaugural smoke.Bakelite20

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Showcasing A Linkman Deluxe 9732 Canadian


This old timer came out great. The new mouthpiece with the inset propeller looks original. This is a winner all the way around. Great partnership on this one Troy.

Troy W's avatarBaccy Pipes

About a year ago i was talking to Tim Pollock about pipes and mentioned i would like to start getting hold of some old KBB Yello Bole and Linkman Canadian’s. He told me that he had a old Linkman Canadian that did not have a stem but that he would happily  give me if i wanted it. He mentioned it used to have a propeller stem but the stem was so damaged the previous owner had threw it away and stated it was non repairable.

I told him that i would take it and see if i could find a stem for it . So he sent me this old Linkman Deluxe 9732 medium Canadian. Other than missing a stem, a slightly banged rim and being dirty the pipe was very nice. The stamping’s were in pretty nice shape as well.

I asked around on the Dr. Grabow Collector’s forum…

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Extending the Life of a Hard Used Kaywoodie Bulldog


Blog by Steve Laug

In the box of pipes that a friend sent for me to fiddle with, was a tired old Kaywoodie Bulldog. The stamping was worn off and with a loupe I could read that it was stamped Kaywoodie on the left side of the shank with something illegible below that followed by an R in a circle. On the right side of the shank was the remnant of a shape stamp the looked like it had four digits ending with the bottom curve and tale of an S. The pipe was in rough shape. The bowl was reamed out of round with the rim having taken a beating. The right side of the inner edge was very thin and had been scored down toward the bottom of the bowl. The rings around the bowl were rough and damaged. There was a cut mark on the top of the shank where it joined the bowl and a small crack above the shank insert on both the top and the bottom of the shank. The junction of the stem and shank showed damage as well from what appeared to be pliers. The stem was overclocked. It had some tooth damage on the top and bottom surfaces and was oxidized. KW1 KW4 KW3 KW2 I looked at the pipe as it sat in the box and removed it and turned it over in my hand many times during the past three months since it arrived. I just was not sure that I could salvage it. I figured it might make a good delegate to cannibalize for parts or for another Frankenpipe but I was not sure it was redeemable. I took the next close up photos of the rim and the gouge in the shank to give you an idea of what I needed to deal with if I tackled this pipe as a project.KW5 KW6I spent quite a bit of time looking at the pipe and decided it would be worth a try to see if I could improve it and make it functional. It would never be a pipe of beauty but the old warrior deserved another lease on life. I could certainly make it look better. So with that resolve I heated the metal stinger and tenon with a lighter to loosen the glue so that I could re-clock the stem. It did not take too much heat or time to loosen and then adjust the fit of the stem to the shank. I set it aside to cool and set the glue once again.KW7I decided to top the bowl to even out the height of the bowl around the rings. Currently it was taller in the front than the back and taller on the right than the left side. I worked to take off that excess and minimize some of the damage to the rim as well.KW8 KW9 KW10I used a knife blade needle file to redefine the twin rings around the bowl and to sharpen up the definition on the top and the bottom of each line.KW11With all of the adjustments done I wiped down the bowl with acetone on cotton pads to remove the remaining finish and the ground in grime that was on the bowl.KW12 KW13 KW14I reamed the cake back to bare wood so that I could see the extent of the damage to the walls of the pipe. I used a PipNet reamer to take back the cake.KW15 KW16I cleaned up the remaining cake with a sharp pen knife to clean off all of the debris. I then sanded the rim with 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the damage and prepare it for the plan I had for it. I wiped it down with alcohol and then packed briar dust into the rim damage. I place drops of super glue on the briar dust to form that patch. While I did that repair I also repaired the gouge in the shank bowl junction.KW17 KW18 KW19I sanded the cured patch with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the excess and to level out the surface with surface of the bowl and shank. The first two photos below show the repaired shank damage and the third photo shows the repaired rim.KW20 KW21 KW22I set the bowl aside at this point and worked on the stem. I sanded it with 220 grit sandpaper and then with a medium and a fine grit sanding sponge. Then I sanded it with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-4000 grit pads. I rubbed down the stem with Obsidian Oil between each successive grit to give the micromesh pads more traction as I used them.KW23 KW24I buffed the stem with White Diamond and Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel to raise the shine. Then it was time to stain the bowl. I decided to use an opaque oxblood aniline stain. It is a stain that is thicker in consistency to the Feibings and gives good coverage on damaged briar repairs. I applied the stain and flamed it. It gave the old warrior some life while not hiding the repairs that it would wear proudly over the years ahead to witness to its hard life.KW25 KW26 KW27 KW28I buffed off the excess stain once it was set with a quick buff of Blue Diamond polish on the buffer. I then worked some more on the stem working back through the previous grits of micromesh to reduce the stubborn oxidation on the stem. I used a lighter flame to paint the surface of the stem to burn off the oxidation as well. I finished by sanding it with 6000-12000 grit micromesh pads and then buffed the entirety with Blue Diamond on the buffer.KW29I gave the bowl and stem multiple coats of carnauba wax and buffed it to a shine with a clean flannel buff. I hand buffed it with a microfibre cloth to give it some depth. The finished pipe is shown in the pictures below. While the pipe certainly is not a thing of beauty there is some restored dignity that will serve it well in the years ahead. It should serve the pipeman whose rack it graces with a good solid smoke for a good long time.KW30 KW31 KW32 KW33

Changes I have seen in the pipe refurbishing craft


Blog by Steve Laug

I was sitting this morning with a hot cup of Nepali coffee that I was gifted on a recent journey to Kathmandu and reflecting on the state of our refurbishing hobby. I remember when I started buying my first estate pipes and stumbling through the process of cleaning them up. I joined several online forums and sent incessant emails to pipe carvers for help with my questions. There just was not a single resource out there to help the pipeman who wanted to purchase and clean up estate pipes themselves. On top of that there were few repairmen out there who I knew of. I talked with Dave Wolff at Walker Briar Works, Ronni Bikisan at Night Owl Pipeworks, Tim West at Lowes Pipemaking supplies and a few scattered others for help when I ran into something I did not know how to tackle. I called pipe makers like John Calich, Steve Downie, Mark Tinsky and bugged Rad Davis at the few pipe shows I went to as well. I spoke with online estate pipe sellers like Tom Myron to pick their brains on what to do with the pipes in my hands. Categorically, these gentlemen were always willing to help me in any way they could. There was no unwillingness to share what they had learned of their craft with me.

Throughout the years most of what I have learned I learned like most everything else in my life worth learning – the hard way through mistakes and much practice. Trial and error, through more trial and error led eventually to most of the methods I have learned today. I have never been afraid to ask questions from those who are far better at things than I am and to learn from them. I generally have to make it my own just because I don’t have access to a lot of tools or a good shop. I work on a worktable/desktop that serves as a multipurpose piece of furniture for me. I have added a few tools over the years – buffers, Dremels and modified many others from my tool box to make up my work kit. But the point is that through the majority of those years there was nowhere to go to learn the craft. It was a matter of hunting down those willing to teach and working to know what to ask them when I got a hold of them.

Even three years ago when I started rebornpipes blog there was not a lot of information available. Most of the online forums had a section dedicated to restoration/refurbishing/repair where a lot of show and tell happened and some were gutsy enough to give constructive critiques of people’s work. I have always learned from that so I appreciate good constructive observations bent on helping me do it better. A criticism for the sake of criticism from someone not doing the work is a useless expulsion of noise and air in my opinion. I prefer the way I am doing it wrong to the way they are not doing it at all. Thank you very much.

However in the last three years there has been significant change. There is a growing community on You Tube that provides ongoing videos on all the aspects of pipe refurbishing and repair. These are visual demonstrations of the work of refurbishing with descriptive monologue as the work is done. Many are excellent resources and some are even humourous and a delight to watch. I never laughed as hard as I have at some of these You Tube videos. They are doing a great service to the community. There are also several blogs on most of the pipe repair sites such as Rebornbriar and Briarville giving simple how to methodologies for cleaning up your own estate pipe. Additionally new bloggers are popping up across the web with how to photos and steps in how to repair and refurbish your own pipe. There is no end to material available to a person who wants to repair a stem, restem a pipe, refinish or just spruce up one of their own.

Along with this is a bit of a down side – the cost of estate pipes has gone up considerably. Even the most worn out broken down low end pipe often costs more than a new pipe on eBay. Care must be exercised when looking at estate pipes there. One of the plagues that to me are increasing is the new descriptor that I am seeing more often there is “fully restored and ready to smoke” on pipes that look merely polished. I have bought a few of these over the last few years and found that they are actually more work than the old foul smelling awful looking pipes I used to pick up for very cheap prices. Along with that is the fact the “refurbisher” will often do irreparable damage to the stamping on the shank. They damage the fit of the stem – rounding the edges at the shank stem union. They “paint” the pipe with a shiny coat of varnish and in the worst case urethane to give it a shiny new look. All of these make my work and that of any other refurbisher who truly loves the craft difficult indeed.

The craft has become more accessible through the windows of the internet but with it have come some drawbacks that must be understood and observed if you are to continue to learn and develop a skilled craft. But then again you have found your way here and probably are reading other blogs and checking out You Tube videos on our craft so you do not need to be warned. Help carry the commitment to doing the work well to others who want to learn and give freely of what you have learned from others. Pass on the craft to all who ask – never hesitate to help where you can and teach others what you know. In doing this we will see the craft we love passed on to the next generation of pipemen who are already entering the community.

Truly that is my commitment with rebornpipes. That is really the only reason we are here. Thanks for being a part of this growing community of refurbishers. If you have learned something here please submit a write up of your work to share with others. If you have added a trick or a tool that came through trial and error write it up and share it with the community. The blog is yours and will only be as good as the work that we each contribute. Thank you.

Easy Refurbish & Sticky Adjustomatic Fix on a Dr.Grabow Belvedere #36


Nice work Troy!

Troy W's avatarBaccy Pipes

I have been looking for a nice example of a Dr.Grabow Belvedere wirecarved  #36 billiard for a while . I just recently found this one on Ebay and was very reasonably priced. I have passed on a few mostly because the rims were too beat up. I try to find the best examples i can on wirecarved pipes , as the wirecarving is hard to fix. It can be done but requires A LOT of work.

Belvedere was a line of Dr.Grabow produced from 1955-1964/65. They came in two finishes, smooth and wirecarved. Like the Starfire line all wirecarved pipes were stained black. The five Belvedere’s i currently own smoke extremely well and cool.

The Ebay pictures i saw looked like it had superb wirecarving so i bid and luckily won it as only bidder.The pipe arrived and it looked like it was lightly smoked or well taken care of…

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