Monthly Archives: September 2014

Restoring a Jobey Stromboli 160


jobeylogo I have been looking for a Jobey Stromboli for quite a while now but never found the shape I wanted. I love the rustic almost Sea Rock look of the Stromboli finish and the Jobey link system has intrigued me. So when I saw this one on EBay it only took a minute to make a bid and lock in the end price I was willing to pay for the pipe. The shape, the wavy rim surface and the flow of the stem attracted me. The Lucite stems on many of these pipes was quite thick and cumbersome looking but this one is nice and streamlined looking and reminds me of the GBD chairleg stems on some of their pipes. The seller says that it was in good shape and that the stem was a green colour. The bowl exterior looks odd to me and definitely the finish has taken a bit of a beating. The rusticated finish is quite forgiving however so I am hopeful that a good scrub and restain will do the trick. The stem appears to be in good shape with minimal tooth chatter on the top and bottom sides near the button. The six photos below were included by the seller in the EBay listing. Jobey1 Jobey2 Jobey4 Jobey5 Jobey6 Jobey7 Since I know next to nothing about Jobeys in general and more specifically about their claim to fame Link System I decided to do a bit of digging on the web. I have included a picture of the link taken from the web to give an idea of what the actual part looks like. link Chris beat me to it and posted this patent applied for and issued for the bowl and shank connection I have included the entire patent document in the text of this article because it is fascinating to me to read how the designer worded his application and how the cutaway pictures show the connector both in terms of side views and end views.

Smoking pipe bowl shank and stem connection
US 3537462 A
Images(1)
Jobey links Description (OCR text may contain errors)
United States Patent Peter V. Genna Inventor Brooklyn, New York Appl. No. 802,170 Filed Feb. 25, 1969 Patented Nov. 3, 1970 Assignee Wally Frank, Ltd. New York, New York a corporation of New York SMOKING PIPE BOWL SHANK AND STEM CONNECTION 1 Claim, 4 Drawing Figs. US. Cl 131/225 Int. Cl A24f 1/00, A24f 7/02 Field of Search 131/225 [56] References Cited V UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,168,481 l/1916 Combs 131/225 2,461,905 2/1949 Lavietes 131/225 3,044,472 7/1962 Keyser 131/225 FOREIGN PATENTS 274,743 7/1927 Great Britain 131/225 Primary ExaminerJoseph S. Reich Attorney-Harry B. Rook ABSTRACT: A coupler to separately connect the bowl shank and the stem of a smoking pipe, has one end threaded to screw into the shank bore. The other end portion is cylindrically smooth and the stem is frictionally longitudinally and rotatablyslidable thereon. Between said end portions the coupler has a circumferential flange that is disposed wholly in a counterbore of said shank and firmly seats on the bottom wall of the counterbore.

SMOKING PIPE BOWL SHANK AND STEM CONNECTION BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
In one type of shank and stem connection, the stem has a cylindrical tenon at one end which is longitudinally slidable and rotatable in a bore in the shank.

Another type of shank and stem connection comprises a screw threaded tenon on the stem and a complementary screw-threaded bore in the shank.

The first-mentioned type of connection has the objection that it is difficult to obtain a tight nonseeping joint between this shank and the stern, and it is practically impossible to maintain a snug connection between the parts because of the wear incident to frequent removal and replacement of the stem.

The second-mentioned connection has the objection that due to wear of the screw threads looseness in the connection of the parts occurs and results in seepage of moisture through the connection. Also attempts to tighten the connection by screwing the stern more firmly into the shank results in a displacement of the bit or mouthpiece of the stem with respect to the bowl and sometimes causes a stripping or damaging of the threads in either or both of the shank and tenon.

SUMMARY
One object of the present invention is to provide a connection between a bowl shank and a stem which shall overcome the above-mentioned objections to the prior art.

More particularly the invention contemplates a construction and a combination of a bowl shank, stem and coupler wherein the coupler has one end screw threaded into the bore, and the stem is frictionally longitudinally and rotatably slidable on the other end portion of the coupling; and said coupler has a circumferential flange between said end portion that is disposed wholly in a counterbore of the shank and firmly seats on the bottom wall of the counterbore, whereby the stem can slide longitudinally and rotate on the coupler and the coupler can be tightly screwed into the shank bore without danger of stripping the threads and with practical insurance of a seepage-proof joint between the coupler and the shank.

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
For a complete understanding of the invention, reference should be had to the following description in conjunction with the accompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 is a central vertical longitudinal sectional view through portions of the bowl shank and stem and showing the coupler in side elevation;

FIG. 2 is an enlarged central, vertical longitudinal sectional view with portions of the bowl and the stem omitted;

FIG. 3 is an end view of the coupler; and

FIG. 4 is a similar view on the plane of the line 4-4 of FIG. 2.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION
The reference character A designates the smoking pipe bowl which has a shank B provided with a smoke duct 1 and a bore 2 to receive the coupler C which serves to separately connect the shank B to the stem D.

The shank bore 2 is entirely screw threaded at 3-to receive the threads 4 on one end portion of the coupler C the other end portion of which is smoothly cylindrical as indicated at 5 and on which is longitudinally slidable and rotatable the stem D. Preferably the coupler is formed of a moldable plastic material, for example hard rubber or Bakelite, and the stem is preferably formed of the same material. Between its said end portions, the coupler has a circumferential flange 6 which is adapted to be wholly disposed within a counterbore 7 at the end of the bore in the shank. The depth of the counterbore is greater than the thickness of the flan e. When the screwthreaded end of the coupler IS screwed into the bore of the shank, the flange 6 firmly or tightly abuts the bottom wall 8 of the counterbore. For convenience in screwing the coupler into the shank and unscrewing it from the shank, the coupler is provided with a diametrical kerf 9 in the stem-receiving end thereof.

However, in accordance with the invention the stem has a sufficiently tight frictional fit on the coupler so that the coupler can be screwed into and out of the shank bore by simple rotation of the stem. The stem has at one end a cylindrical smooth-walled socket 12 which receives the cylindrical end 5 of the coupler and the stem and is frictionally rotatable on the coupler so that the stem can be easily adjusted into the proper relation to the bowl, and the stem is also longitudinally slidable on the coupler so that the inner end 10 of the stem can be kept in neat and tight abutment with the end surface 11 of the shank. FIG. 2 shows the stem slid away from the end of the shank while FIG. 1 shows the stern and shank in their normal relation to each other.

It will be seen readily that the flange-limits the screwing of the coupler into the shank and thus protects against stripping of the threads. At the same time, the flange abutting the bottom wall of the counterbore provides a seepage-proof joint between the coupler and the shank. To compensate for wear of the threads or of the abutting surfaces of the flange and the counterbore, the coupler can be screwed farther into the bore, and the stem can be slid on the coupler to maintain the neat and tight joint between the end 10 of the stem and the end 11 of the shank.

Claim:
l. A smoking pipe comprising a bowl having a shank which has an internally screw-threaded bore at the outer end of which is a counterbore, a stem having at one end a cylindrical smooth walled socket providing a bottom wall therein, and a coupler having a cylindrical smooth end portion frictionally received in said socket for relative longitudinal movement and rotation, said coupler having its other end portion screwthreaded to mate with said screw-threaded bore and having a flange between said end portions wholly disposed in said counterbore and in firm abutting contact with the bottom wall of said counterbore, the depth of the counterbore being greater than the thickness of the flange.

Classifications
U.S. Classification 131/225
International Classification A24F7/00, A24F7/02
Cooperative Classification A24F7/02
European Classification A24F7/02

Further digging led me to learn that Jobey has had three homes throughout its existence. The pipes were originally made in England circa 1920 and then the company moved to the US. The Jobey Dansk version of the pipes was made in Denmark. Now the pipes are produced in Saint-Claude, France by Butz-Choquin since 1987. Under these broad time lines I was able to find a listing of the owner/distributor and manufacture of the brand during the time period that the brand was in the US.The list below was what I was able to find in several spots on the web. Each time I read the list it was cited that the dates are/were approximate.(The majority of the information below comes from Pipedia.)

Owners/Distributors/Manufacturers of Jobey Pipes from 1942-the late 80s

George Yale Pipes & Tobacco, New York (1942)
Norwalk Pipe Co., New York (1949)
Arlington Briar Pipes Corporation, Brooklyn (when?)
Hollco International, New York (1969).
Weber Pipe Co., Jersey City, NJ (1970’s)
The Tinderbox (1970’s – 80’s).

“Throughout decades Jobey pipes were mainly sold in the USA, Canada and England but remained almost unknown in continental Europe. The bulk of Jobeys was predominantly made according to classical patterns and mainly in the lower to middle price range. The predominant judgment of the pipe smokers reads: “A well made pipe for the price.” So there is hardly anything very special or exciting about Jobey pipes although a flyer from ca. 1970 assures: “The briar root Jobey insists upon for its peer of pipes is left untouched to grow, harden and sweeten for 100 years. […] Jobey uses only the heart of this century old briar and only one out of 500 bowls turned measures up to the rigid Jobey specifications.”99.80% of cull… that makes the layman marveling!”

“Yet then there are partially really exciting Freehands mainly in the seventies, that Jobey – Weber owned back then – bought from Danish pipe genius Karl Erik (Ottendahl). These pipes were offered as Jobey Dansk – ’70’s pure! (BTW waning sales caused Ottendahl to discontinue exports to the United States in 1987.)”

In the very same year – obviously only as a ghost brand – Jobey was transferred to Saint-Claude, France to be manufactured by Butz-Choquin.

There must have been an abandonment of the fabrication, because in 2002 the message was spread, the current proprietor of the brand F&K Cigar Co. from St. Louis, MO had recently re-introduced the Jobey very successfully again…”

I thought that the information might give me some idea as to when the pipe I had was made. However there was no information on the stamping distinctives of the various makers. Judging from the style of the stem and the thick, coloured Lucite it is made from my assessment would be that the pipe came from the period of the late 60s or 70s. It is not a Danish style Dansk so it is not from the period that Ottendahl carved the pipes so that would preclude it being Danish made. I am thinking it was American made. That is about as certain as I can be on the dating of this pipe.

When it arrived I was pleased with the overall look of the pipe. The deep rustication reminded me of Castello Sea Rocks. The finish was worn and the stain was missing on some of the high spots on the rustication. The rustication on the rim was filled in with a buildup of tars and oils. The bowl had been reamed and was clean. The photos from the seller had an almost green tint in some portions of the bowl. I was glad to see that the finish did not have any mold problems. The interior of the shank was quite dirty. The threaded mortise was filled with black tars and oils. The stem had tooth chatter on the top and bottom near the button but there were no tooth marks or dents that were deep in the surface. The fit of the stem to the shank was clean and tight. I am not sure whether the threaded tenon actually is to remain in the shank or the stem. I was unable to remove it from the stem so it acts like a threaded tenon fixed to the stem. The tenon had the same black buildup around the base of the piece and the threads had the same. The pipe was in fair shape and needed a thorough cleanup. The pipe smelled strongly of aromatic tobaccos.

I began the cleanup by scrubbing the exterior of the pipe with a tooth-brush and Murphy’s Oil Soap. I used it undiluted and scrubbed until the soap was dark. I picked the buildup on the rim with a dental pick and cleaned out the grooves there. I rinsed it with lukewarm running water to remove it from the nooks and crannies of the finish. IMG_1979 IMG_1980 Once it was rinsed off I dried it with a cotton towel. The state of the finish is shown in the next three photos. There are spots where the stain is gone but the finish is very clean and ready to be stained. IMG_1981 IMG_1982 IMG_1983 I cleaned out the internals of the bowl and shank with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and isopropyl alcohol. I scrubbed out the threaded mortise with the cotton swabs and alcohol until they came out clean. The airway ahead of the threaded mortise was scrubbed with pipe cleaners. I also gave the stem an initial cleaning. IMG_1984 Once the grime was off the stem the tooth chatter was very evident on the top and bottom sides of the stem. I would need to sand the stem to remove the tooth chatter and restore the shine to the stem. The airway would also need to be cleaned out thoroughly as when I held it to the light it was still black on the inside. IMG_1985 IMG_1986 IMG_1987 I wiped the bowl down with alcohol to prepare it for staining. I used a Dark Brown Aniline stain and applied it with the provided wool dauber. I flamed the stain and repeated the process until the coverage was even across the bowl. IMG_1988 IMG_1989 IMG_1990 IMG_1991 While the bowl was drying I sanded the tooth chatter on the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the marks from the surface of the Lucite. Once the tooth chatter marks were removed I sanded it with a medium and a fine grit sanding sponge to remove the scratching left behind by the sandpaper. The third photo below shows the stem after the sanding sponge has been used. IMG_1992 IMG_1993 IMG_1995 The next step in the sanding process for me has always been to sand with the micromesh sanding pads. I wet sanded with the 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanded with 3200-12,000 grit pads. Each successive grit of micromesh brought a deeper shine to the auburn/hazel coloured Lucite. IMG_1996 IMG_1997 IMG_1998 Once the stain was dry on the exterior of the pipe I wiped it down with a cotton pad wetted with alcohol to lighten the finish slightly. I then gave the pipe a light buff with White Diamond and a shoe brush to raise the shine. I rubbed on some Halcyon II wax to protect the finish from my next step in the process. No matter how much I cleaned the pipe it still smelled of heavy “caramel like” aromatic tobacco. I decided to give it the cotton ball and alcohol treatment. I pressed two cotton balls into the bowl making sure they were not touching the rim and used an ear syringe to fill the bowl with isopropyl alcohol. I wanted to leach out the tars and oils that were in the briar and eradicate the smell. I filled the bowl and set it in an old ice-cube tray overnight. IMG_1999 Within the first 30 minutes the cotton was already turning brown along the edges. This told me that the process was working. IMG_2000 In the morning when I got up the cotton was a medium to dark brown as shown in the photo below. I picked it out carefully with a dental pick. The alcohol had evaporated so the cotton was not soggy, just damp. I wiped out the bowl with cotton swabs and cleaned out the shank once again with pipe cleaners to remove any of the remaining oils and tars from the surface. I lightly buffed it once more with a soft flannel buffing pad to polish the briar and stem. IMG_2001 The finished pipe is shown in the final four photos. It has been waxed with Halcyon II Wax and buffed with a shoe brush and lightly with a soft flannel buffing pad. The stem has multiple coats of carnauba wax and also was buffed with a soft flannel buffing pad. I generally let a bowl that I have given the cotton ball and alcohol or salt and alcohol treatment dry for several days before loading it up and giving it an inaugural smoke. IMG_2010 IMG_2011 IMG_2012 IMG_2013

Ponderings on an Almost Lost Generation of Pipe Smokers, with a Restoration Thrown In – Robert M. Boughton


Guest Blog by Robert M. Boughton
Member, North American Society of Pipe Collectors
http://www.roadrunnerpipes.com
http://about.me/boughtonrobert
Photos © the Author, except when obvious

“If You’re Getting Dad a Pipe, Make It a FRANK MEDICO – HESSON GUARD MILANO…Frank Medico Is the filter-cooled pipe. Changing the filter keeps it fresh, cool, odorless. Milano has a special cushion-sealed guard. Handkerchief test proves it keeps the ‘vital zone’ spotless.”
— Newspaper Ad, 1944, http://209.212.22.88/data/rbr/1940-1949/1944/1944.06.15.pdf,pg.2

INTRODUCTION: THE SO-CALLED GOOD OLD DAYS

If that doesn’t pull your nostalgia trigger, try these other family-friendly happy piper ads, also from the 1940s and our same sponsor:
Rob1
There is a reason I’m focusing on Medico ads, which will become clear, but first take as close a look at these as you can. I apologize for the sizes, but the words are unimportant, inane in fact. Take, as a further example, one short 1928 newspaper ad for the Demuth Milano with the Hesson Guard which read, “Would You Stick Your Handkerchief in the Stem of Your Pipe? This Is Possible with the ‘Metal Guard.’ It Stays Clean.” (http://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1499&dat=19281028&id=aJVQAAAAIBAJ&sjid=siEEAAAAIBAJ&pg=1833,4407321,p.51.)

I wanted to see that trick and by chance came across a “Scientific American” ad on how to “stop goo” in the October 1950 issue with instructions to try the hankie test on a Milano Lockmount, which was a metal gadget with a “permanent” cork tip, all attached to the stem that was inserted into the shank. The ad shows a handkerchief stuffed into the empty shank and suggested it would always come out clean. (http://books.google.com/books?id=7iwDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA26&lpg=PA26&dq=hesson+guard&source=bl&ots=mVrSmRlYxu&sig=5Z3GWlOjardFbCsE6ToDTWjdJuI&hl=en&sa=X&ei=1YIXVJeSEtDioATlzIGABw&ved=0CCMQ6AEwATgU#v=onepage&q=hesson%20guard&f=false,p.26.) My guess is that the operative word in the humongous URL is the last, “false.” What, my enquiring mind wondered, knowing what can happen to cork in pipes under the best of situations, becomes of the cork when it invariably will be saturated with goo? I, for one, do not care to think about it.

As Fred R. Barnard, himself a clever ad man,wrote in the text of one almost always misquoted example of his work in “Printer’s Ink” magazine in 1921, “One look is worth a thousand pictures.”I, for one, love these old ads, not only for their nostalgic value but their frankly corny (now) approach to selling pipes. Viewing them today we need to realize that times and life were not really simpler way back when; our advertising and entertainment were simply more diversionary tactics to deal with the horrors in the world. Who in those days wanted to see real life on the big screen or print ads? Ask the average Joe or Jane on the street that question today and you’re liable to get a litany of reality shows.

Although I am single, from what I gather of married smokers, mostly men, the wives if not the rental agreements rule the household, and so most smokers seem to enjoy their extramarital love affairs out of the home. A few, including our good host Steve, apparently just enjoy it more in the great Canadian outdoors, for example, as I would if I had the rural setting to accommodate my inclination. It’s dangerous enough where I live just to check the mail, so for me “outdoors” means driving my SUV about town with the doors auto-locked, a pipe in my mouth and the sun roof open.

But again, really take a good look at the classic expressions on the faces of the men and women in these ads – unadulterated agreement, if you will indulge perhaps only a fanciful imagination, that the pipe is no problem, so long as it has the vital filter space. Ah, yes, we all know the importance of that special spot. And get a look at the wide-eyed, half-crazed, sideways, Renfield-like peek of utterly tweaked fulfillment on the man’s face in all three, not to mention the “Better Homes and Gardens” Housewife of the Year leer from the woman that gives one the idea that she knows who the real boss in the house is anyway. Why, the man’s expression not only brings to mind Dracula’s bat-nuts servant played so memorably by Dwight Frye in the 1931 horror pinnacle for Bela Lugosi (the only real Dracula movie ever made), it’s even reminiscent of the 1936 cult classic movie, “Reefer Madness,” which with more than a little irony is seen today as the nonsense it is more than public and legislative attitudes aimed at the childish belief that outrageous taxes will eliminate smoking tobacco of any kind, no matter how contemplative and rarefied.

Happily, this brings me to one of my important points. The very word rarefied, in the sense of refined or purified, describes my new friend and fellow pipe club member, Laurence H. Lattman, Ph.D. Had I met Dr. Lattman under different circumstances, or even known when I met him a month or so ago that he earned the degree in geology at the University of Cincinnati with a special knack for geomorphology, I would follow my general urge to refer to him as such.

Larry Lattman, Honest-to-God Old Codger

Larry Lattman, Honest-to-God Old Codger

Larry began a career as a professor at Pennsylvania State University in 1957; he chaired the University of Cincinnati’s Geology Department for five years before moving on to the University of Utah, where he was dean of the College of Engineering and then took the chair of the College of Mines and Mineral Industries; from Utah Larry moved at last to New Mexico, where he was president of New Mexico Tech (then known as the New Mexico Institute of Mining and Technology) until his retirement, and he has authored or co-authored at least 45 scholarly papers and two books.

His honors include the Penn State Distinguished Teaching Award in 1969, a Fulbright Professorship at Moscow State University in 1975, the American Institute of Mining, Metallurgical, and Petroleum Engineers’ (M.I.M.E.) Mineral Industry Education Award in 1986, as well as being a Fellow of the Geological Society of America and a 1981 Distinguished Member of the Society of Mining Engineers. His consultations to organizations and governments worldwide, including the National Academy of Sciences in the U.S., are prolific.

Therefore, of the many very intelligent people with doctorates in this or that whom I have met in my life, surely Dr. Lattman deserves the distinction, and I’m sure that is what his scores of students over the decades he has been an educator call him. To anyone who knows the excellent engineer and geologist better, however, he goes by Larry – just Larry, not even Mr. Lattman. Like most folks, Larry enjoys a good joke, but unlike most, he has a seemingly countless collection from which he can draw at any moment given the trains of thought of those around him, which are often numerous and fast-paced and drawn to the teacher as I imagine he attracts his students. I will not quote any of Larry’s jokes here for various reasons.

Something else special about Larry, and that touches on the purpose of this writing, is that he is 90 years old. This means he has survived being born in the Bronx, New York on November 30, 1923, when the’20s were just starting to Roar, living his formative years during the Great Depression, seeing Prohibition come and go, enlisting in the Army Corps of Engineers when he was 20 and serving the last two years of World War II – all by the time he was barely able to drink legally with today’s standards and morals in this country.

Still, the first thing I can remember Larry saying was, “I smoked my first pipe when I was 18, and FDR was president.” That’s Franklin Delano Roosevelt, the 32nd president of the U.S. and the only one to be elected more than twice (four times: 1932, 1936, 1940 and 1944), before the 22nd Amendment to the Constitution was passed by Congress in 1947 and ratified by the states in 1951.

“I smoked my first pipe when I was 18, and FDR was president.” I will never forget those words. To me, as I suspect is true with most others, they are as hard to imagine as an email sent to me by Larry would have been for him when he was that 18-year-old. As he recalls the occasion of his first pipe experience, it was a rum and maple blend in a Frank Medico filter model that he says was similar to the Medico Harwood Gold Crest most prominent in the second ad above. He added that, during the time at his resume of universities, he “puffed pipes off and on accumulating a group of Dunhills and four dot Sasienis (including a group of seven matched ones in a box with each day of the week specified.)” After a hiatus of about 20 years, Larry continued in the email, he “began to puff in earnest.” Few know the importance of being earnest better than Larry.

Now I will flashback to 1943, when young Larry joined the military to do his part for Uncle Sam and the world. The Mills Brothers’ “Paper Doll” was No. 1 on Billboard, and Rudy Vallee and His Connecticut Yankees’ “As Time Goes By” was No. 11. (In case you wondered, I added No. 11 because it happens to be one of my favorites.) The U.S. population was 136,739,353, and unemployment was 1.9 percent (compared to 318,860,010 and 6.1 percent as of this writing). FDR’s Social Security aspect of the New Deal was meant to be a temporary fix, not permanent. The price of a stamp was three cents. Federal spending, most of it because of the war, was $78.56 Billion instead of today’s $3.8 Trillion (although at the inflation rate of 1,277.2 percent compared to 1943, federal spending then would have been $1.1 Trillion, but that’s still no excuse for either). The New York Yankees won the World Series, of course, 4-1 against the St. Louis Cardinals. FDR and Britain’s Winston Churchill held the Casablanca Conference, and the movie “Casablanca” with Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman, which was released the previous year, was still in theaters because there was nowhere else to see it. THAT ALONE SHOULD BLOW OUR MINDS! BTW (from the new invention that made Larry’s email possible), “Mrs. Miniver,” with Greer Garson and Walter Pidgeon, won the Oscar for Best Picture. Where have all the greats gone?

I should mention that Larry also has the distinction of being the first person to purchase a restored pipe online from my store, although I had sold five others in person to various associates. I’m afraid Larry might have gotten a wild hair somewhere, and ended up buying another. The rest of this blog is about the first buy, a straight large bowl Duca Carlo natural billiard by Savinelli, and how I cleaned it up.

THE PIPE RESTORATION

Photo 1

Photo 1

Photo 2

Photo 2

Photo 3

Photo 3

Photo 4

Photo 4

Photo 5 & 6

Photo 5 & 6

As can be seen from the photos above, this project posed almost textbook restoration issues to be overcome. First, although it was nowhere close to the dirtiest pipe I have ever cornered, it needed a good bath before I could really see what I had to do. Photo 3 shows the moderate ding and scorching on the rim, and a large amount of cake buildup in the bowl. It just doesn’t reveal the depth of the rim blackening or the incredible layers of cake and how thick they were in places. And so the rim and bowl were my main problems.

I give every pipe a quick-clean to make sure there are no truly serious interior problems with the stem’s bore or tenon and/or the bowl’s mortise or draught hole and then, in general, wait to clean and sterilize the inside of the pipe thoroughly until after I have at least reamed and sanded the chamber. This is probably the only general procedural step in every pipe restoration on which I choose to deviate from my mentor and friend, Chuck Richards. His perfectly sound idea is to clean the thing and be done with it, while I prefer to wait except as noted, although I know Chuck must give his finished work a final run-through with the stem cleaner anyway.

Therefore, after Rob’s patented Quick-and-Dirty Cleaning, in multiple senses of the description, I turned to the rim, which I had already scrubbed with purified water to a dull, dark and negligibly different appearance, and gave the task my absolute all with several grades of micromesh, working my way lower in number and only higher in bodily and mental temperature. Determined not to spend my night on the rim, I found a nice small piece of 400-grit sandpaper that worked wonders in moments. With a bit more elbow grease and attention to the exact location of the smaller but still present ding, I was able to remove the blight and finish up with a hand-buffing using 1800 micromesh, if I recall correctly.

Photo 7

Photo 7

With my micromesh kit handy, I flipped the bowl over (see Photo 4) to check out the little pit I noticed as I cleaned the briar. This time, with both Chuck’s and Steve’s repeated advice, in the echoes of my mind, to take it easy on the sanding, and Steve’s specific mention of 1500 micromesh in an email full of good constructive criticism (which I always appreciate because it seems to come to me more often in negative forms), I found my little Platte River box and dug out that exact numbered piece of paper. Careful again to apply the slow, even pressure of the grit only to the small hole in the wood with the 1500 curled around an index finger, it ended up looking much better.
Photo 8

Photo 8

After that, noticing what I was beginning to think must be my tell-tale scratch signature, I switched to 3200 and wiped until it had a nice shine. I used only the 3200 on other isolated parts of the bowl with almost microscopic scratches and other flaws, then wiped it all clean with a cotton rag.

In the event of any possible unevenness in the upper diameter of the bowl as a result of the reaming I contemplated to remove the years of staggered caking, like narrow ledges on the face of a mountain – with the peak being, as it should on a mountain but not in the bowl of any pipe, the smallest part – I put aside my plans to re-stain the rim. Instead I took my Senior Pipe Reamer from its box and had trouble finding a setting to insert it. Getting it all the way in and starting at the base being impossible, I began at the peak and slowly cranked away until the blades slipped lower. In that fashion I bored a path down to the bottom of the chasm, which resembled the inside of a volcano, crusted and jagged. Altogether this phase was accomplished in four or five small steps.

Along the way, I dumped out the loosening carbon into a growing mound that reached almost an inch high in the initial descent. Then I commenced the reaming proper, so to speak, turning the blades at an angle favoring the top of the bowl, and broke new ground there, where I actually reached bare briar for about three-eighths of an inch down the slope. In this fashion, I made several more slow descents before the interior was more or less convex, though still very rough. The only remaining wide fissure was at the very bottom of the bowl, which I determined to eliminate with sanding by hand until I achieved an overall smoothness that would be even with the bottom, with which I could then deal.
I started with 150-grit paper and made a surprisingly brief, easy time of it. After dumping more carbon, I stuck a small square of cotton over a finger and used it to wipe the inside of the bowl roughly to clear it of more soot. Switching to 400-grit paper, I used the only appropriate finger to finish the job, with the satisfying result of a bowl that was as smooth as obsidian and, except for the clean briar at the top, appeared to be pre-smoked. The final pile of carbon was higher than two inches, which is truly amazing given that the actual bowl interior was 7/8×1-1/2”.

I knew the time had come to clean the pipe, which proved to be unusually easy. All I needed was a few pipe cleaners, the alcohol and about 20 minutes. I deduced that whoever smoked the pipe for so long and with such disregard for upkeep of the bowl at least disliked the wet, acrid dottle backwash he must have generated to use pipe cleaners on the stem and shank fairly often.

With the end of the project in sight, I felt a surge of motivation to finish, but not in a rush. I just wasn’t about to stop at that point, if that makes sense. And so I reached for my brown boot stain. With the applicator brush dipped at one end into the liquid and then wiped as dry as possible on the rim of the bottle, I ran it twice with care around the pipe’s dull but smooth rim and immediately fired it gently with my lighter. Setting it aside for a few minutes to cool off, I then returned to my micromesh box and removed the darkened, dried excess stain with my 3200 paper using soft, even strokes. The final color was a perfect match.

I rubbed the entire pipe and stem separately with my cotton cloth and gave both an evil eye inspection, with my magnifier glasses on, of course. The bowl was ready, but one look at the stem almost stopped my heart. I had forgotten it completely! However, I was in luck, as there were no dings or chatter to fix, so all I needed to do was micromesh it. (See photos 3 and 4.) I chose 800 for one run, then 3200 for the other. In a few minutes, both parts were ready for buffing.

Red Tripoli followed by a good rub with a cotton rag and then White Diamond worked for the stem. The bowl I buffed with white Tripoli, White Diamond and carnauba.

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CONCLUSION
The 1940s and ’50s, and into the ’60s, were the heyday of pipesmoking. Most young men at least experimented with them, and I remember my early boyhood when my father and nearly every friend of his, including many doctors, were devotees of the relaxing enjoyment of the magical, mostly briar personal and social tool that was as ubiquitous as cocktails at lunch and after work. My father, for one, believed in caring for all of his tools and keeping them in their proper places, whether it was in the garage, his home office space or the large walk-in closets he shared with my mother. The closets, I remember, were where he stored his boxes of pipes, high on the upper shelves like a gun, where I could not get to them.

Ironically, I played a key part in his abandoning the enjoyment of his pipes. Swept up by the foolishness of my sisters and mother, who all had heads full of the initial hysteria created by the Surgeon General’s warnings on all cigarette packages and in ads, and thereby harped on him to quit smoking “so you won’t get cancer,” and being only a lad of seven or younger, I gave in and joined them. In the end, my father succumbed to the incessant nagging from all of us and quit for good.

Now 81 and not likely to take up the old pleasure again, he has not talked to me for about 14 years, after a 15-year lapse, when I tracked down his phone number from his best friend, who was a medical doctor he met in college and lived on a different island in Hawaii. The purpose of the call was to follow up on a telegram I sent my father and his new wife, the wedding of whom I learned literally at the last minute the day of the ceremony. I paid for hand-delivery, which I learned in the conversation we had that was short and cordial they received and appreciated. Not that my role in his giving up one of his main pleasures in life was in any way part of the official reason for the gulf that came to divide us (which excuse I still do not understand), I’m sure my father, being the kind of man he is, never forgot.

At any rate, as my father would say to change a subject, the Surgeon General’s warning would seem to coincide with the decline of smoking in general and the pipe in particular. I could only guess how many times I’ve had my pipe with me in public and been stopped by strangers who almost invariably comment that my pipe and the pleasant aroma of its tobacco remind them of their father or grandfather. Fortunately, I’m long past the initial sting. After all, most of the time I could be either.

I will end with one story of Larry’s from his two years of service in Europe during World War II. This needs a little set up, naturally. Assigned at first to the Manhattan Project (which developed the atom bomb, for those who don’t know), Larry was without explanation transferred to the European Theater – a marvelous euphemism up with which only the military could come. As it turned out, the latent engineering talent with which Larry appears to have been born led the powers that were in the old War Department to conclude that Larry’s understanding of the Bomb and ability to speak pidgin German made him the perfect candidate to question or interrogate German scientists, depending on whether they fled on their own or were captured, as to their knowledge of the Fatherland’s own plans for a similar weapon of mass destruction.

At any rate, Larry’s day job, so to speak, in the Corps of Engineers mostly involved setting up Bailey Bridges, which could be assembled quickly with pre-made parts and engineer-soldiers using only wrenches. Conceived by a British civil servant named Donald Bailey while being driven home after watching another conventional bridge being blown up by enemy bombers, the Bailey Bridge proved to be a highly effective weapon to allow the rapid construction of means to transport troops and heavy vehicles including tanks across rivers anywhere.(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PcoozadA6A.)

Larry recalls his part helping to assemble these bridges, which not only are easy and fast to put together but last as long as most of their regular counterparts. In fact, many of the Baileys constructed in Europe during the war are still there. During a trip to France with his wife many years later, Larry decided to track down at least one of the bridges he helped to make. After hours of driving around the French countryside, he found what he was looking for but was horrified by what the locals had done to it.

“They painted it an awful shade of pink!” he exclaimed. “No Bailey should ever be painted pink! They should be left the way they were built.”

Indeed.

Transferring a Stinger/Metal Tenon Apparatus from One Stem to Another


I have run into a challenge when seeking to restem several older Kaywoodie and Dr. Grabow pipes. The challenge was whether to keep the pipe original (my natural inclination) or to drill out the mortise and install a push stem. If I was going to keep it more original then the issue was how to move the stinger/tenon apparatus from a broken or damaged old stem to a new one. In the original stem the threaded tenon fit perfectly into the mortise on the bowl. The alignment was tight against the shank and the diameter of the old stem worked. Worst case scenario I could realign the stem and the fit would be fine. So the question for me in restoring these pipes was how to move the tenon/stinger apparatus from the old broken stem to the new one. From reading various forums on Kaywoodies and Dr. Grabow pipes I had learned that you could heat the tenon and adjust an overturned stem. After thinking about this for a bit I wondered if heating the tenon might also let me remove it from the old stem. For the purpose of this essay I used an older Dr. Grabow Regal Adjustomatic stem as the experiment for moving a tenon/stinger apparatus to a new stem. I have written about the full restoration of this pipe in an earlier article (https://rebornpipes.com/2014/09/14/rebuilding-a-dr-grabow-regal-adjustomatic-patent-billiard/). IMG_1927 The stem I wanted to use for a replacement was an old Kaywoodie stem. It too had a metal tenon and stinger. The stem/stinger from the Kaywoodie would not fit the bowl as the threads were different from those found in the shank/mortise of the Grabow. I heated the stinger on the Kaywoodie stem with a Bic lighter until it was loose and I was able to carefully work it out of the end of the stem with a pair of needle nose pliers. It was pressed into the hole in the stem and was grooved to give some bite to the piece when it was glued in the stem. I could have used a heat gun to loosen the glue but decided to work with minimal tools this time to try and remove it. The lighter worked very well and within a few moments I had the metal tenon and stinger removed from the stem (Photo 1). IMG_1948 I used the same process to heat the Grabow stinger/tenon with the lighter as well and tried to work it out of the stem with the needle nose pliers. I was able to move it very slightly but was unable to pull it out of the stem. I decided to use the mortise in the shank to help me remove the part from the old stem. I reheated it and screwed the tenon into the shank of the pipe and twisted and pulled on the stem. It came out about a third of the way. I reheated it and repeated the process until I was able to work it all the way out of the stem. In the photo below the KW stinger/tenon and stem are shown in the front and the Grabow stinger/tenon and stem in the back of the photo next to the lighter. The Grabow apparatus was smooth and held in place by friction and light glue. The stinger end was also removable from the Grabow tenon (Photo 3). IMG_1949 The diameter of the insert on the Grabow tenon was slightly larger than the one on the KW stem. In experimenting I found that it was one drill bit size larger. I used that drill bit with a cordless drill and opened the hole in the KW stem to receive the Grabow tenon. I also had to drill the hole a little deeper into the stem to account for the added length of the end of the Grabow insert (Photo 4). IMG_1950 In redrilling the KW stem I removed the inset that had held the lip on the original tenon insert. In order for the Grabow tenon lip to fit correctly against the stem when fully inserted I would need to make allowance for that inset once again. I used a sharp knife and beveled the inner edge of the airway on the stem at a sharp angle and worked on it until the insert fit tight against the end of the stem when inserted (Photo 5). IMG_1951 I pressed the insert into the stem to check on the depth of the hole and the fit against the stem. I always do this before I glue it in place and make more work for myself if it is incorrect. Once I was certain that the fit was correct I removed the tenon and put a thin coat of all purpose white glue on the end and screwed it into the mortise on the shank. This would allow me to adjust the stem and line it up before the glue set. I pushed the stem onto the glued end and lined it up. When the glue had set I unscrewed the stem and tenon and cleaned up the end of the threaded tenon and inserted the stinger (Photos 6 & 7). IMG_1952 IMG_1953 The next photo shows the two stems – the KW stem with the Grabow stinger/tenon in place sitting next to the old Grabow stem. All that remained at this point was to work on the diameter of the stem itself and make the transition from the shank to the stem seamless (Photo 8). IMG_1965 I have included the next two photos (Photos 9 & 10) of the finished pipe to show the entire pipe once the new stem was in place. The stem fit well in the shank – tight against the metal mortise with no gap. The new stem fit as well as the old one but had no bite marks or holes. Over all the process of moving the metal fitment was quite simple. It was a matter of heat, drilling and pressure to put the old tenon in a new stem. A bit of sanding and polishing and the new stem was good to go and the old pipe was back into service. IMG_1970 IMG_1973

Rebuilding a Dr. Grabow Regal Adjustomatic Patent Billiard


One of the few pipes with a stem included in my gift box of bowls was a nice little Dr. Grabow Billiard. It had a long stem that clearly fit the shank of the pipe and gave it an elegant look and feel. At first glance I figured this one would clean up quite easily. The varnish finish on the bowl was worn and spotty with pieces of the varnish coat peeling off the surface of the briar. The rim was coated with a thick layer of tars and oils but looked sound. The bowl had a thick cake particularly from mid bowl to the bottom of the bowl. It was very hard and was not crumbling at all. It had however, closed the bowl to a large degree. The mortise was part of the aluminum band on the shank. It was a threaded cast piece that was fitted against the briar and was oxidized. The internals were quite clean. The bowl was stamped on the left side: REGAL over Dr. Grabow. On the right side it was stamped Imported Briar over Adjustomatic over PAT. 2461905. I have written about the patent on the Adjustomatic tenon/stem in an earlier post on rebornpipes: https://rebornpipes.com/tag/dr-grabow-adjustomatic/ I included patent information and diagrams on that page so I will not repeat that material in this post. The stem had thick calcification on the top and bottom sides of the stem and looked like it had one time sported a softie bit. When I turned the stem over there was a large hole in the underside from the button forward. IMG_1924 IMG_1925 IMG_1926 IMG_1927 I wiped down the bowl with acetone on a cotton pad to remove the damaged varnish and prepare the bowl for possible restaining once the rim had been cleaned off. It took some scrubbing but I was able to get rid of the varnish from the surface and out of the grooves in the carved leaves on both sides of the bowl. It turned out that underneath the peeling varnish there was some very nice grain on the pipe. The top and bottom of the shank and the front and back of the bowl were really nice cross grain. There was a small nick in the back of the bowl near the top of the rim that had a small fill otherwise the briar was flawless. The sides were very nice birdseye grain. This was going to be a stunning pipe once it was finished. IMG_1928 IMG_1929 IMG_1930 I wiped down the buildup on the rim and was unable to even dent the hard tar. I lightly topped the bowl on a topping board to take of the buildup and not affect the rim itself. I carefully removed the tars, checking every move across the sandpaper to make sure that I was not damaging the surface of the rim. IMG_1931 IMG_1932 Once I had cut through the buildup the briar was in very good shape. I used a PipNet reamer with the smallest cutting head to remove the carbon cake in the bowl. Even the smallest head was hard to turn against the rock hard cake of this bowl. I carefully worked it back and forth, being careful not to tip the cutting head to either side and lose the roundness of the bowl. Once I had gotten the head in as far as possible I used a pen knife to work on the bottom portion of the bowl and then reworked the reamer in that area. IMG_1933 I decided to try to patch the hole in the stem. I cleaned hole and put Vaseline on a pipe cleaner. I inserted it in the airway then sprayed accelerator on the stem, put black superglue on the hole and let it sit. The hole was quite large and I was not sure that the repair would hold. I applied the glue in several layers building up the patch until it was quite thick. I sprayed it with the accelerator each time to speed the drying time. IMG_1934 IMG_1935 IMG_1936 I sanded the patched area with 150 and 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the patch and then reapplied more black super glue and accelerator. IMG_1937 I set the stem aside and let it cure. In the morning I sanded the stem patch until it was smooth in the process my fingernail went through the stem above the patch. I explored the thickness of the stem up the stem and found that I could push through the airway quite a distance up the stem (Photo 1 below). After that fiasco I noticed that the patch was also quite unstable. I was able to push out the patch with my fingernail. The stem after patching and pushing through the repair is shown in Photo 2. IMG_1943 IMG_1944 At this point it was clear that a stem patch would not work on this stem. With the thinness of the vulcanite extending up the stem about an inch it was not clear how far that would go. I was going to need to do something different. I cut off the stem with a Dremel and sanding drum. IMG_1945 IMG_1946 After cutting it off I could see the problem – airway was drilled very high in the stem. There was no room for cutting a new button on the stem and opening up the slot. The top of the stem was thin for another inch toward the tenon. I had to come up with something very different to address this issue. IMG_1947 I had an old Kaywoodie stem in my can of stems that was about the same diameter as the damaged one. It was missing the club logo in the side of the stem but had a club shaped hole. I heated the stinger on the KW stem with a lighter and then was able to remove it with a pair of needle nose pliers. IMG_1948 I also heated the Grabow stem with the lighter and worked on it with the pliers. It came out slowly. I finally screwed it into the bowl and turned it until the stem came off. I then unscrewed the tenon from the bowl. I tried it in the KW stem and it was just a little bit bigger than the hole in the stem. I would need to drill it one size larger to get a fit. IMG_1949 I used my cordless drill to drill it out. It had to be slightly larger and slightly deeper than the KW stinger apparatus. To make room for the lip on the aluminum piece I used a sharp knife to bevel the inner edge of the hole to accommodate the lip. IMG_1950 IMG_1951 The Grabow tenon/adjustomatic apparatus fit in the shank and I pressed it into place to see if the fit was correct. I then removed it and used a white all purpose glue to hold it in place. There was a removable stinger end for the tenon so I reinserted that in place and the new insert was ready. IMG_1952 IMG_1953 The fit of the stem against the shank was perfect. The diameter of the stem was slightly larger than the diameter of the shank so I would need to sand it to make them match. I tried to remove the Grabow insert from the old stem so that I could use it on the new stem. I tried to pick it out with a dental pick but was not able to remove it. IMG_1954 IMG_1955 I filled the club hole with black superglue and then sanded it smooth. I used 220 grit sandpaper to work on the diameter of the stem. I also sanded the end of the stem around the button to remove the tooth marks and chatter. IMG_1956 The next series of four photos show the stem after all of the sanding and shaping. The new stem looked quite good with the bowl. The fit was perfect and the lines and flow of the angles was exactly what I was looking for when I started. IMG_1957 IMG_1958 IMG_1959 IMG_1960 I sanded the stem with a medium and fine grit sanding sponge and then refilled the small holes around the patched club logo with more superglue. I sanded the patch down with 220 grit sandpaper and resanded it with the sanding sponges until it was smooth. The photo below shows the two stem side by side. IMG_1965 I sanded the stems with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12,000 grit pads. I rubbed it down with Obsidian Oil between each set of three grits of micromesh. I buffed the stem with White Diamond and then gave it a final coat of Obsidian Oil and set it aside to work on the bowl. IMG_1966 IMG_1967 IMG_1968 I buffed the bowl with White Diamond and carefully buffed around the stamping on the sides. I polished the aluminum shank band with the higher grades of micromesh pads and then a polishing cloth to remove the scratches and bring up the shine. The next series of four photos show the polished bowl before I worked on it with some 8000-12,000 grit micromesh pads. IMG_1938 IMG_1939 IMG_1940 IMG_1941 IMG_1942 I gave the bowl a wiped down coat of Danish Oil and walnut stain. I wanted to give the briar a shine coat but not add much colour to the finish. It really made the grain pop on this one. IMG_1961 IMG_1962 IMG_1963 IMG_1964 Once the oil had dried I buffed the bowl with White Diamond and then gave it several coats of carnauba wax. I buffed it with a soft flannel buff. I put the stem back in place and gave the bowl and stem several more coats of wax and buffed to a shine. The finished pipe is shown below. The look and feel of the pipe is like new. It is cleaned, restemmed, refinished and ready to fire up with its inaugural bowl of tobacco. It should last a long time and serve its owner well – whether I keep it or pass it on to another pipeman. (I decided to take these final photos on a piece of marble counter top to see if I could get a good contrast on the photos.) IMG_1970 IMG_1971 IMG_1972 IMG_1973

Repairing a Hole in an Acrylic Stem


Blog by Greg Wolford

A couple of weeks ago I received an IM from a Facebook friend; he’s a pipe collector and reseller. He attached the following photos of an acrylic stem with a hole in the underside.
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He had seen photos of some of my work bad wanted to know if I could repair this stem for him; he said the top of the stem and the stummel were pristine and this was the only problem with the pipe. I said I could fix it so he told me the stem would be in the mail in a couple of days.

A week later I found a box in the mail from a sender I didn’t recognize and I wasn’t expecting any packages so I was eager to see what was inside. When I opened the box I found a beautiful large Radice (I forget the model name and didn’t remember to photograph it) inside – with a big hole in the stem; apparently the seller sent the pipe directly to me first and, after repairing it, I would forward it to my friend.

The hole was larger than it appeared in the pictures. And it was a bit “ragged”, too. So I picked it with my dental pick and smoothed it with a round needle file to have a good surface to work with. I bent a pipe cleaner to make it triple-width to fit the slot and greased it with vegetable shortening; I’ve had trouble with petroleum jelly in past not keeping the glue in place real well and have started using the shortening instead.

I began by applying a drop or two of black super glue to the hole an pd then setting it aside to cure; it was going to take several layers to fill this hole so it would be a waiting game. Later that evening I applied a few more drops and left it overnight to cure.

In the morning I found the patch had shrunken, as expected, and needed more glue. I applied two more patches that day, once in the morning and another that evening and allowed it to cure overnight again.

It was at this point I began to have some fairly dramatic vision problems due to diabetes, which I’d been recently diagnosed with. (More on that can be found here if you are inclined to read about it.) So I sent my friend a message telling him what was going on and it might be several more days before I could finish the repair. His reply was no problem, make sure I took care of me first.

Several days later my son and I stopped into the local Hobby Lobby to pick up some new micro mesh pads. As we browsed I found a small “spray bottle” labeled adhesive accelerator; I immediately wondered what kind of adhesive it was for and began to read the label, with my son’s help, since my vision was still not clear. It was for most glues so I thought it might be a similar product to Stewart-McDonald’s super glue accelerator – but only $3.99 – so I bought it. I was now even more anxious to work on that Radice stem!

I experimented on an old stem, vulcanite, with a large hole first, not wanting to “play” with someone else’s pipe. The results were great: the super glue set up hard in about 15 minutes and it looked just like it normally would, with no adverse effects from the overspray. Next I’d try it on the Radice.

It was, indeed, a few more days before I could see well enough, long enough to work on the repair. I sprayed the patch with the accelerator, applied the final drips to the patch, sprayed it again and set it aside for 30 minutes. I then filed, sanded (220/320/400/600 grits) and wet-polished with micro mesh 1500-12,000 grits, a final polish with McGuire’s Scratch X 2.0 and hand waxed and buffed the stem with Halcyon II wax; I don’t like buffing acrylic stems, especially when they aren’t mine and are expensive! This is the final repair:

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He is thrilled with the results, as am I. And I’m even happier to find a local source, and less expensive alternative, for the accelerator. If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby you, I highly recommend you grabbing a bottle and giving it a try; you’ll save yourself a lot of time and a few bucks to boot.

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What is a Mountain Root Pipe with a Glasschaum Bowl?


Another of the gift bowls that I received was an apple-shaped bowl stamped Mountain Root on the left side of the shank and on the right side Glasschuam Bowl. The Glasschaum Bowl stamping had remnants of silver paint in the indentations. The finish was rough with many scratches in the briar. The shank internally was very black and tarry. The bowl inside was dirty with a thin build up of cake. The internal edge of the meerschaum lining was chipped in several places but there were no cracks in the bowl. IMG_1879 The Mountain Root stamping and the Glasschaum Bowl stamp were both new to me. I looked in “Who Made That Pipe” for the Mountain Root brand and found nothing with that stamping. PipePhil did not have it on his site either, so I looked further on the web and found several posts on the brand on the Grabow forum. The link is: http://drgrabows.myfreeforum.org/about4008.html&highlight=

At that site a pipeman had posted about a pipe he purchased on Ebay: “I purchased this “Mountain Root” pipe on Ebay. Right shank is stamped “Glasschaum Bowl” and the inside of the bowl is lined with something similar to how Yello-Boles are lined with a yellow colored coating. The stinger is wooden and the stem inlay is a white or faintly yellow ring on top of the stem similar to Yello-Bole stem rings of the ’40’s except for the color.”

My pipe bowl looked just as he described though I would have said it had a meerschaum like bowl insert rather than the yellow coating on the Yello-Bole pipes. It was significantly thicker than the yellow painted coating. Mine also came without a stem so there was no wooden stinger apparatus or yellow ring on the stem.

He went on to inquire if anyone could help him with information on the brand. He received quite a few helpful replies to his query. One that summarized the lot is included below.

“Mountain Root probably refers to Mountain Laurel. That was one alternative wood used in WWII for pipes, when briar was not available or in very short supply. The wood stinger also suggests that era.”

This coincided with what I was thinking in terms of the link to Mountain Laurel and the WWII era pipes. I was not alone in thinking that I was dealing with a pipe from that era made from Laurel. The confirmation of that was not 100% certain and the next details make me wonder about that. I looked up Glasschaum Bowl pipes online and found that Ben Leibowitz, an American pipe maker marketed the Glasschaum pipe in 1941 and quickly disappeared off the scene. This reference was also confirmed in Who Made That Pipe. If it was indeed a Liebowitz pipe it would have been stamped Glasschaum Pipe with no other stamping. This one however had the Mountain Root stamping as well and it led me to believe I was dealing with something other than an American made Leibowitz pipe. Further digging was necessary.

I often turn to EBay to see if I can find a particular brand of pipe for information when it does not show up other places. In looking through the various pipes on EBay that bore the Glasschaum Bowl stamping I found several that had the identical stamping on the right side of the shank. glasschaum 1 Some of them had Mountain Root (1st photo below) on the left side the same as the bowl I have, while others were stamped Gordon Deluxe in a Diamond on the left (2nd photo below). glasschaum 2 glasschaum 3 I looked in “Who Made That Pipe?”and found that Gordon pipes were made by Villard & Strauss as well as Dan Jacobs/Comoy’s/R. Jack & Sons and Samuel Gordon (1918), all in made in England. There was also confirmation that The Samuel Gordon pipes had Gordon in a diamond logo. The fact that these were English made pipes made me question the Mountain Laurel wood comment above. The bowl also did not look like the wood on other Mountain Laurel pipes that I have in my collection so I am not at all certain of the assessment.

The information I had found made me lean toward the maker of this pipe being Samuel Gordon a London pipemaker. That meant that the pipe was English made. I don’t have a clear idea of the date of the pipe but looking at others on EBay that had the same stamping of the Gordon Deluxe stamping my thinking is that the pipes came from the 40s or 50s.

I went through my can of stems and found one that fit well in the shank with minimal sanding. When I chose the stem I had not done the research on the brand and found that the stem had a light yellow O on the top of the stem and the one I chose had a brass O on the top. Such is the one of the happy coincidences of the repair. IMG_1877 IMG_1878 IMG_1880 IMG_1881 I lightly sanded the tenon of the stem until it fit snugly in the shank. I cleaned out the stem with alcohol and pipe cleaners before beginning the shaping. The diameter of the stem was larger than the diameter of the shank. I used a Dremel with a sanding drum to remove the majority of the excess vulcanite on the stem. I carefully do this with the stem in place and try to get as close as possible to the same diameter as the shank. I try not to nick the shank while I am working on it. IMG_1885 IMG_1886 IMG_1887 IMG_1888 I used a sharp pen knife/letter opener to scrape the inside of the bowl. I wanted to remove the carbon build up around the middle of the bowl particularly and also on the upper sides of the bowl. The bottom half and the bottom of the bowl were quite clean. IMG_1884 IMG_1883 After scraping the bowl clean the chips around the edges of the rim were visible. They were deeper on the back side of the bowl at about 5 and 7 o’clock. I needed to top the bowl to remove the damaged areas on the rim and bring the top closer to the edge of the meerschaum insert. I set up a topping board and 220 grit sandpaper and sanded down the rim. IMG_1882 IMG_1889 With topping of the rim done the chipped areas were very clear. I sanded the inside edge of the rim with a folded piece of sandpaper to smooth out the areas that were not chipped and to bank the inner edge slightly. With this done the repairs to the insert edge would be quite simple to do. IMG_1890 IMG_1891 Once I had the stem diameter close I took it back to the table and hand sanded it with 150 grit sandpaper until the angles and flow of the stem was also correct. I worked so that there was not a bulge or hip at the junction. I also sanded the button on the stem as it was very thick. I sloped it toward the end of the stem. When the fit and flow were close to what I wanted I removed the stem from the shank and sanded in long strokes from the tenon end to the button to smooth out potential scratches.

I put the stem back on and sanded with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the remaining excess and some of the heavier scratches. At this point I also sanded the shank of the pipe at the same time to make sure that the transition between the briar and the vulcanite was smooth and seamless. This took quite a bit of sanding. I did not want to remove too much briar as I did not want to change the look of the shank or the diameter of the shank. I was more concerned with getting the flow and lines smooth. I sanded it with a medium and a fine grit sanding sponge once I had the fit perfected. IMG_1892 IMG_1893 IMG_1894 I wiped the bowl down with acetone on cotton pads to remove the finish from the bowl and shank. I have found that this makes staining the rim and shank much easier to achieve and matching the stain is not a problem as it is all quite light. IMG_1895 IMG_1896 IMG_1897 IMG_1898 I wiped down the inside of the bowl edges with a wet cotton pad to remove loose particles of the liner and also any dust that was present from the sanding. I mixed a small batch of Plaster of Paris to work on the chipped edges of the insert. I mixed it into a thick mud consistency that was still wet but did not clump. I pressed into the chipped areas with the cuticle tool that I cleaned up. The curves on the spoon end are perfect for pressing the mud into the chipped areas of the bowl. The next two photos show the repaired area of the bowl insert. I purposely put the plaster on heavier than necessary and then shaped it with the spoon end of the tool. I set it aside to dry. IMG_1899 IMG_1900 When the plaster was dry to the touch I cleaned out the shank with cotton swabs, pipe cleaners and isopropyl alcohol. There was some paper stuck to the inside of the shank from what appeared to be a washer that some previous owner had used to hold the stem tightly in place. IMG_1901 I sanded the bowl and shank, carefully avoiding the stamping with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-3200 grit to smooth out some of the scratches that were on the surface of the briar. I wiped it down with alcohol on a cotton pad to remove the dust from the finish. Looking at the bowl in this unfinished state it is clear that this is a piece of briar and not a piece of Mountain Laurel. The birdseye and cross grain are quite nice. I cleaned up the top of the bowl and left the inside edge untouched at this point. I wanted the plaster to cure over night before I sanded it and cleaned it up on the inside. IMG_1902 IMG_1903 IMG_1904 The next series of three photos show the work I did on the repair to the edge of the insert. The first shows the repair after it dried over night. It was hard and quite thick. The second photo shows the area after I sanded it with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to smooth it out, bevel it slightly to match the rest of the rim edge and feather it into the surface of the bowl. The third photo shows it after the bowl has been wiped down with a damp cloth to clean up the dust from the sanding. The bright white areas are the repaired portions. After a few smokes this will blend in very well with the rest of the insert and will be unnoticeable. IMG_1905 IMG_1909 IMG_1911 I wiped the bowl and stem down with olive oil on a paper towel. I wipe it on and wipe it off again to give me a clear picture of areas of the bowl that still need work. It shows the scratches very clearly and also gives some colour and life to the bowl highlighting the natural grain. I am still undecided as to whether or not I will give it a coat of a light brown stain. IMG_1906 IMG_1907 IMG_1908 IMG_1910 I sanded the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12,000 grit pads. In between each set of three grits I wiped the stem down with Obsidian Oil and when dry continued sanding the stem. I buffed it with White Diamond and gave it a final wipe down with Obsidian Oil before setting it aside to work on the bowl. IMG_1912 IMG_1913 IMG_1914 I wiped down the bowl with alcohol on a cotton pad and then gave the bowl a light coat of Danish Oil and walnut stain. I wiped it on the bowl and then wiped it off and set it aside to dry over night. IMG_1915 IMG_1916 IMG_1917 IMG_1918 In the morning when it was dry I lightly buffed it with White Diamond on the wheel and then put the stem in place and repeated the buffing. I gave it several coats of carnauba wax and buffed it with a soft flannel buff. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. It is restored and ready to be smoked. It should last for many more years ahead and provide a typical meerschaum lined smoke for the pipeman who smokes it next. IMG_1919 IMG_1920 IMG_1921 IMG_1922 IMG_1923

Restoring a Dr. Grabow Meerschaum-Lined Stack


Blog by Steve Laug

Another of the bowls I was gifted was a tall Meerschaum lined rusticated stack with a smooth spot on both sides of the bowl and the end of the shank. It is stamped on the underside of the shank, MEERSCHAUM-LINED over Dr. Grabow. The bowl exterior had some darkening on the back side of the bowl and the grooves of the bowl were caked. The rim had damage and the meerschaum lining was rough on the inside edge of the bowl. There were cracks in the meerschaum bowl insert on the rim. The bowl itself was cracked and missing from about mid bowl to the bottom of the bowl. The meerschaum pieces were lying in the bottom of the bowl and there was no stem for the pipe.

I did not know anything about the meerschaum lined Dr. Grabows and this one had a distinct look of an Italian made pipe. I went to my source on line for Grabow information the Dr. Grabow Forum (http://drgrabows.myfreeforum.org/sutra238.php). There I found a post on the meerlined pipes. It read in part as follows… “Meerschaum lined pipes were originally imported from M. Gasparini in Italy for Grabow. Sparta finally figured out how to do them and only imported the “plugs”. Early Grabow Meerschaum lined pipes were stamped Italy with no spade. After 1989 Dr. Grabow got rid of Italy and added the spade.” So, my sense of it being Italian was correct. It also dates this pipe as pre-1989. IMG_1848 IMG_1849 IMG_1850 IMG_1851 I had an old stem in my can of stems that would be a good fit for this pipe. I needed to sand the tenon slightly to get a snug fit against the shank. The diameter of the stem was slightly larger than the diameter of the shank and would need to be sanded down to make a matched fit. IMG_1852 IMG_1853 I used a pen knife to clean up the inside of the bowl. There was carbon build up on the lower part of the bowl about mid bowl that was holding together the broken pieces of the meer lining. I scraped away the carbon and removed the broken pieces of meerschaum that remained on the lower edge of the bowl insert. IMG_1854 I topped the bowl with a topping board and 220 grit sandpaper to remove the damage to the rim and the lining top. IMG_1855 I did not remove much of the bowl top but took off enough to make the bowl top and the rim top flush and smooth. In the photo below the cracks in the bowl insert are visible around the top edge of the bowl. IMG_1856 I used clear superglue to fill the cracks on the top edge of the insert and sanded them down. I mixed a batch of plaster of Paris and used the dental pick, the cuticle tool that I was gifts and a pipe nail to build up the interior of the bowl and replace the bottom half of the insert that was missing. I inserted a pipe cleaner in the shank and then packed in the plaster around the airway and tamped it in place on the bottom with the pipe nail and on the sides with the cuticle tool. I used one of the stain pens that I have to stain the rim to match the bowl. IMG_1857 IMG_1858 IMG_1859 I inserted my damp index finger into the bowl and rubbed down the sides of the bowl to smooth them out. I also pushed the plaster on the bottom of the bowl to more thoroughly pack it in place. I sanded the stem with 150 grit sandpaper to reduce the diameter of the stem and then 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the stem. IMG_1860 I scrubbed the bowl down with acetone on a cotton pad to remove the finish and clean up the exterior of the bowl. I then rubbed it down with olive oil and let it soak into the finish. I also rubbed down the stem with the oil as I find that it makes sanding the stem easier to do. IMG_1861 IMG_1862 IMG_1863 IMG_1864 I sanded the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-3200 grit pads and dry sanding with 3600-12,000 grit pads. I wiped it down between each of the sets of three pads with Obsidian Oil. Once it was dry I buffed the stem with White Diamond and then with carnauba wax. IMG_1865 IMG_1866 IMG_1867 I put the stem back on the pipe and buffed it with White Diamond. I lightly buffed the bowl with carnauba wax and the stem more heavily. I finished by buffing the pipe with a soft flannel buffing pad to raise the shine. The finished pipe is shown below. The thin shank and the thin diameter of the stem give the pipe a delicate look. It is very light weight and fits well in the hand. I am going to let the plaster of Paris repair dry and cure for several days before I load a bowl and give it an inaugural smoke. IMG_1868 IMG_1869 IMG_1870 IMG_1871 IMG_1872 IMG_1873

UPDATE: I just smoked this one after it had cured for two days. I loaded a bowl of The Malthouse Founder’s Reserve in the bowl and smoked it to the bottom of the bowl. It smoked cool and dry. The plaster of Paris is darkening nicely and will soon match the rest of the meer lining of the bowl.
IMG_1874 IMG_1875 IMG_1876

Finding Out Who Created GBD – Story of a Pipe Brand – Jacques Cole


I have had this article by Jacques Cole saved on my hard drive for a long time now. I have read it many times but last evening I read it again and thought it would be good to put on the blog. It gives a concise history of the brand and the mergers that went on to bring the brand to what it is today.It is a quick read for the GBD pipe collector and lover. This is the kind of information I am always on the lookout for because of the historical connection it gives to the pipes I smoke, collect and refurbish. It was printed in TOBACCO July 1982, pp.16-17. I formatted it to fit in a Word document, added some photos of old advertisements and done minor editing in terms of punctuation. – Editor

A number of pipe brands owe their introduction and continuation to craftsmen who gave the family name to their product and were followed for several generations by their descendants.
GBD however was not quite the same. The founders did give their names, but the ‘family’ was a partnership of men of similar skills and equal purpose of mind. They created a brand which became strong enough to gather its own momentum. The creators were no doubt wise to choose initials rather than one of their names.

Who were these creators? Ganneval, Bondier and Donninger were three ‘Master Pipemakers’ who got together in Paris in 1850 to manufacture meerschaum pipes. It was a bold decision as these were troubled times in France. Charles Louis-Napoleon Bonaparte has returned after the 1848 revolution and become President of the Republic. Following a coup d’etat in 1851, he made himself Emperor Napoleon III in 1852. He was incidentally a keen pipesmoker and may well have owned one or more early GBDs.

Ganneval is a known, if not common name in the Saint-Claude district of France and he seems to have been a native of these parts, where he learnt his craft. The name Bondier is still found in Saint-Claude, but may originally have come from Paris. One Bondier is known to have fled from Paris during the 1789 Revolution and settled in Geneva. Some of his descendants returned home eventually via Saint-Claude where our Bondier worked in the local industry learning the skills of the wood-turners and making stems for the clay and porcelain pipe industries. Donninger was probably of Swiss or Austrian origin, having gained experience in Vienna, the home of meerschaum pipes.

Of the three founders, Bondier was to survive 30 years longer than the others, but new partners took their places. The official name of the firm also changed, showing a succession of partners: Bondier Ulnch & Cie, then Bine Marechal & Cie and finally A Marechal Ruchon & Cie. Auguste Marechal and Ferdinand Ruchon saw the firm into the 20th century, their name being used as a company for well over 50 years. GBD MRC The intention of the creators of GBD was to make meerschaum pipes. Details of their early production is scarce, but they made carved heads,‘simpler’ models which included a fair proportion of bents of traditional meerschaum style, and similar shapes to the then familiar clay pipes, which we would recognise as Dublins or Belges, with a sprinkling of early Bulldogs.

The founders had early registered their mark and were able to fight off any infringement. A proof of the rapid growth and importance of the brand is shown by the findings of the Court of Chancery in London in 1874 in favour of GBD against someone using the name illegally. Many other ‘cases’ were won by GBD in various countries.

GBD understood at once the advantage of briar when this was discovered in the 1850s to be an ideal material for pipe making. The close contacts already established with the industry in Saint-Claude helped to provide the raw material. While briar helped the simplification of pipe shapes, meerschaum production went hand in hand with briar and we can see in surviving carved briar pipes the influence of Vienna that came with Donninger. Briar soon became the main material.

MEDAL AWARDS

Business and reputation developed quickly and there is no better indication of this than the record of 15 medal awards gained at international exhibitions in nine cities all over the world during the first 40 years of GBD.

The partners must have been busy: they show the brand establishing itself in Europe, the USA, Canada and Australia. South Africa was to come later.

At the start of the ‘briar age’, GBD used only the best quality although after a time a second slightly lower quality became necessary to meet rapidly growing demand.

The need for a wider price range was solved by the variety of fittings. Amber, horn, ivory and even quill were used for mouthpieces, followed by vulcanite towards the end of the 1870s. Various types of silver and gold bands were greatly in demand and so were pipes in fitted cases, plain or carved.

FINE COLLECTION

GBD was offering towards the end of the century 1500 ‘models’, bearing in mind that a shape offered with three different mouthpieces was listed as three different models. This made a really fine collection. A shape chart of 1886 shows a basic 125 shapes (the actual total was 1600 which included 12 Billiards, 36 Bents and 46 Dublins/Belges) many with heels. These formed the core of the collection shown in Amsterdam in 1888. One of the principal features of GBDs was the slimness of their stems.Some 20 years later, the balance had somewhat changed: still 36 Bents;
Billiards gaining in popularity (36); 32 Dublins/Zulus, a few still with heels; but the Belge, cousin to the clay pipe, down to two small models.

On the other hand Bulldogs had risen to 15 shapes. In the first ten years of this century, amber and amberoid were still used, but vulcanite and horn mouthpieces were the most popular mouthpieces. Another ‘trend’ was the inclusion of some 30 models in various shapes fitted with
‘Army Mounts’. The range had by now taken on a more British aspect,and for good reasons: GBD had become British.

Charles Oppenheimer had started his successful General Merchant business as an import-export house in 1860. He was joined by his brothers David and Adolphe and brother-in-law Louis Adler. Briar pipes were among the earliest lines handled and the connection with GBD Paris started in 1870, being most important customers. A. Oppenheimer & Co were appointed exclusive agents in 1897. Adolphe Oppenheimer took a keen interest in the pipe side of the business, and most important, James Adler, son of Louis, was to take a major part in the ‘change of nationality’. GBD Oppenheimer With other interests in Saint-Claude, Oppenheimer acquired A. Marechal Ruchon & Cie, in 1902 and it became A Marechal Ruchon & Co. Ltd., a British company with four directors, two British and two French, namely, Adolphe Oppenheimer and James Adler in London, and Auguste Marechal and Ferdinand Ruchon in Paris, with the latter as the first chairman of the new company.

FAMILY INVOLVED

The Adler family is still very much involved with GBD. The head office was in London with the main, now enlarged factory in the Rue des Balkans. Paris, while a large factory was being built in Saint-Claude. Although perhaps envisaged at that stage, manufacturing in London did not get underway until the 1914/18 War when it is recorded that in 1916, the bowl turning facilities in Saint-Claude shipped some 27,000 dozen bowls to GBD Paris of which 18,000 dozen went to the London Works. After the War, GBD production continued in both London and Paris. London Made went mainly to the then British Empire and the USA, while Paris supplied the French and
European markets. Later the products of both countries were to be seen on occasion side by side, particularly to satisfy special requirements.

The siting of factories has a bearing on our story, so we must jump ahead a little to record that in 1952, the manufacture of French GBDs was transferred from Paris to Saint-Claude, together with all services, to the benefit as it turned out of GBDs on the French market in particular. GBD French We have seen that early Briar GBDs were made in only one, later two qualities and the need to mark the difference did not arise. There were few finishes but towards the end of the 19th century demand was changing, for instance the UK had a “penchant” for the darker finishes.
Qualities were therefore sub-divided and we see the introduction of the GBD XTRA (note the spelling). The GBD Speciales were as the name implied, special models, finishes and fittings. GBD XTRAs were the cream, being mostly straight grains. The ‘ordinary’ quality was simply stamped GBD.

Demand after the First World War called for further identification starting with GBD ‘London Made’ which became ‘Standard London Made’, followed by GBD ‘New Era’, top of the range in 1931 at 12/6d! GBD ‘Pedigree’, although first thought of around 1926, was well established in the late 1930s. GBD ‘New Standard’ was created to give a boost to the ‘Standards’ of the 1920s and a newly introduced sandblast was called GBD ‘Prehistoric’, still bearing a small GBD ‘Xtra’ stamp. GBD New Era French made GBDs followed more or less the same ideas; still however using ‘Xtra’ and ‘Speciale’ while in the late ’20s a metal system GBD was introduced under the name GBD ‘Extra Dry’.

The 1920s also saw an important development with the introduction of the metal GBD inlay on mouthpieces which gave the pipes that extra ‘touch of class’. This inlay has been used on GBDs for nearly 60 years.

After the closing of the Paris factory, GBD ‘Standard’ was used on a basic fine range with an appropriate finish to fill the lower price range. Both the London and the St Claude factories continued to supply top quality ‘Straight Grains’ and cased pipes were still in demand up to the
1950s. In the 1960s the Jamieson shapes from London equaled or even headed the best in the very specialised field of handmade pipes.

GBD of course, keeps up with the times, and while the steady ‘Pedigrees’ and ‘Standards’ keep going, the need for innovation has produced a new series: GBD ‘Gold Bark’ fitted with a gold ‘bark’ band, GBD ‘Jetstream’ with a modern mouthpiece design, and GBD ‘Champagne’ with a high quality acrylic mouthpiece.

We cannot leave GBD without mention of an important line just below the GBD quality — often referred to on the French market as the ‘petite’ GBD — the ‘City de Luxe’ range first registered in 1922. The distinctive metal star on the mouthpiece was introduced at the same time as the GBD inlay. ‘Citys’ are made in both London and France. GBD City STRONG POSITION

GBD is in a strong position on the world’s markets and is known to all discriminating pipesmokers. The families now involved with its success are the Oppenheimers and the Adlers of London. It was the late Alan Adler who coined the phrase ‘having the Holy Fire’ which sums up the feeling in the GBD organisation, his son John being head of the firm.

Older readers will remember Jack Cole, who left London in 1919 for a’short stay’ in France but went on to remain there up until his death over 50 years later, and for a time had his sons with him. They and the many others who have contributed to the GBD story have a great affection for the brand. Back in 1850, Ganneval, Bondier, and Donninger really started something.

Rejuvenating a Willard Straight Rhodesian


Another of the bowls from the gift box was this Willard Rhodesian. It was in pretty good shape other than being dirty and stemless. The bowl had a broken cake at the top of the bowl and remnants of tobacco left in the bowl. The rim was dirty and lightly caked with some damage caused from tapping the rim on something. The outer and inner edges of the bowl were undamaged. The interior of the shank was dirty. The shank was fitted with a threaded mortise that would take a threaded stem. I had a stem in m can of stems that fit well in the shank, was overturned but workable. The diameter of the stem was larger than the shank. The photo below shows the stem on the pipe in the middle of the threesome. IMG_1750 I set up a heat gun and held the stem about three inches above the heat. The first photo below shows the stem in place. To heat it I removed it from the bowl and heated the metal tenon. When it was warm I screwed it back in place and twisted it. I had to reheat it several times to get the alignment correct. The second photo shows the aligned stem. IMG_1752 IMG_1755 I sanded the stem with 150 grit sandpaper to reduce the diameter of the stem. I also sanded the slope to the button to highlight the tooth marks on the stem. IMG_1809 IMG_1810 IMG_1811 I used a needle file to sharpen the inner edge of the button and make the angles more distinct. IMG_1812 I wiped down the bowl with acetone to remove the grime and clean up the finish. I did not want to lighten the finish as much as to clean off the light coat of varnish on the briar. IMG_1814 IMG_1813 I lightly topped the bowl to clean up the rim damage. I used a sanding board and 220 grit sandpaper to remove the damaged briar and then followed that by sanding with a medium and a fine grit sanding block. IMG_1815 IMG_1816 I continued to sand the stem to match it to the diameter of the shank. I used 220 grit sandpaper to finish the sanding and shaping of the stem. I worked on the tooth marks on the top side and underside of the stem with 220 grit sandpaper until they were no longer visible. IMG_1817 IMG_1818 IMG_1819 IMG_1820 I reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer beginning with the smallest cutting head and working up to the one that was the same diameter as the bowl. I reamed the bowl back to bare wood. IMG_1821 IMG_1822 I sanded the stem with a medium and fine grit sanding sponge to reduce the scratches left behind by the 220 grit sandpaper. IMG_1823 There was one stubborn tooth mark that I could not get out on the underside of the stem next to the button. I cleaned the area with alcohol and then used clear super glue to repair it. I sprayed the path with an accelerator so that I could sand the patch sooner. IMG_1824 IMG_1825 IMG_1826 IMG_1827 I sanded the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-3200 grit pads and dry sanding with 3600-12,000 grit pads. I rubbed down the stem with Obsidian Oil between each group of three micromesh sanding pads and then when I finished sanding with the 12,000 grit pad I buffed it with White Diamond. IMG_1828 IMG_1829 IMG_1830 I buffed the bowl and shank with White Diamond and then gave it a coat of Danish Oil and walnut stain to protect and preserve the finish. When it was dry I buffed the pipe with White Diamond and then gave it several coats of carnauba wax. IMG_1835 IMG_1836 IMG_1837 IMG_1838 The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. The new stem fits well. In fact it looks like it came with the pipe. The repairs to the stem are not visible. The bowl itself dried well and buffing the finish gave it a softer look. The finished pipe was given several more layer of carnauba wax and then buffed with a soft flannel buffing pad. It is now ready for many more years of service to another pipeman. IMG_1844 IMG_1845 IMG_1846 IMG_1847