Daily Archives: April 26, 2026

Restemming and Restoring a House of Robertson’s 951 Freehand

by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the work table is a change of pace for me. It is a stemless freehand bowl that we purchased off eBay on 11/18/2025 from a seller in Canton, Michigan, USA. It was a great looking Freehand bowl even without the stem. The name House of [over] Robertson is roughly hand-etched on the left side of the shank with an engraving tool. On the right side is etched the number 951 which I assume is a shape number. The pipe is a well shaped Freehand bowl with plateau on the rim top and shank end. It also had some rustication around the shank end and the bottom of the bowl and shank had been slightly flattened. The bowl has some interesting flame grain on it along with a mix of other grains. It is thickly caked with some lava overflow on the plateau rim top. The outer and inner edges of the rim look to be in good condition. The pipe was dirty but underneath all of the grime it appears to be in good condition. It is definitely an interesting pipe and should clean up very well. I will need to fit it with a freehand style stem blank that will complement the shape of the bowl. Jeff took photos of the pipe before he started the cleanup. Jeff took photos show the condition of the bowl and the stem. The photos of the bowl and rim show the cake in the bowl and the heavy lava overflowing onto the plateau rim top. The photos of the sides and heel of the bowl show some stunning and unique grain all around the pipe. The finish makes the grain really stand out on the bowl and shank. The next photos show the etched name on the left side of shank and the shape number on the right side. It is clear and reads as noted above.I am including the information that I found when I received my first of the House of Robertson Pipes. I found a link on Pipedia that gave me the only information I could find on the brand. I include that in total as it is interesting to read.

“House of Robertson” was in business for many years, but alas, closed their doors in 1999. They were located in Boise, Idaho. They are noted for making rather large and interesting pipes. Thayne Robertson was a Master Mason, AF & AM, and started the shop about 1947 and his son Jon started working there in 1970 when he finished college, along with Thayne’s daughter. Thayne and his son started making the big pipes at that time, and made them together until 1987 when Thayne passed away. Jon kept the store and his sister moved on to other things. The House of Robertson appears to have closed around 1999 (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Robertson).

Since then I have worked on a lot of House of Robertson pipes and have been able to track down more information. I am including a link to a Catalogue that I picked up on eBay. Click on the link and have a look at this interesting book of information on the brand and the pipe maker himself (https://rebornpipes.com/2022/12/11/a-house-of-robertson-catalogue-filled-with-great-examples-of-thayne-robertsons-work/).

I am also including a biography of Thayne Robertson that I found on Facebook from a fellow in Boise, Idaho. It is an interesting read into the mind of the pipe maker. Make sure to take time to read it (https://rebornpipes.com/2021/10/31/house-of-robertson-pipes-boise-pipe-carver-thayne-robertson/).

Now it was time to work on the pipe itself. When it gets to Vancouver it my turn to contribute to its restoration. Jeff did a great job cleaning the pipe on the inside and outside. He reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer and cleaned up the remnants with the Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed out the mortise and the airway in the shank with 99% isopropyl alcohol, cotton swabs, shank brushes and pipe cleaners. He scrubbed the exterior of the bowl with a tooth brush and undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap to remove the dust in the plateau rim top and shank end as well as the band of rustication shank. He also scrubbed the smooth portions. He rinsed it under running water. He dried it off with a soft cloth. Once the dust and debris were removed the finish was dull but appeared to be in excellent condition. I took photos of the pipe to show its condition before I started my work on it. I sanded the bowl with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch sanding pads. I wiped it down with a damp cloth after each sanding pad to remove the debris. It began to look very good. I polished the briar with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding the bowl and shank with 1500-12000 grit pads and wiping it down with a damp cloth between each sanding pad. The bowl took on more of a shine with the completion of each sanding pad. I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the briar with my fingertips. I let it sit on the bowl for 15 minutes. I buffed it off with a soft cotton cloth to raise the shine. It was a beautiful piece of briar. I set the bowl aside and went through my can of freehand style stems. I wanted a vulcanite fancy saddle stem and I had a few to choose from. This one was a blank. It still had the castings on the sides and end. The shank end had been lightly shaped but would need to be cleaned up and adjusted to make the fit in the shank snug. I took a photo of the stem with the pipe to give a sense of what I saw. It will need some shaping before it truly fits well. I used a flat file to smooth out the edge and transition it so it fit well in the mortise.With the bowl finished other than the final buffing I set it aside and turned my attention to the stem. I shaped the tenon end a small file and followed that up with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper. It looked much better once I finished shaping it.I sanded the stem surface with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch sanding pads to finish the reshaping and smoothing out the casting debris on the sides and button end of the stem. I wiped it down with a cloth impregnated with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad to remove the debris. It began to look very good. I “painted” the stem surface with the flame from a lighter. I did it until it was softened and I was able to give it a slight bend to work with the angles of the bowl and shank. I polished it with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down between each pad with a cloth impregnated with Obsidian Oil. By the final pad the pipe stem looked very good. I put the House of Robertson Freehand and new fancy vulcanite saddle stem back together and worked the pipe over on the buffing wheel using Blue Diamond to lightly polish the stem. I buffed the bowl and stem to raise the gloss on the briar and the vulcanite. I gave the bowl multiple coats of Conservator’s Wax and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the entire pipe with a clean buffing pad on the wheel to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished the House of Robertson Freehand is shown in the photos below. The rich brown stains on the plateau, rusticated and smooth finish of the Freehand works well with the rich black of the vulcanite saddle stem. The dimensions of the pipe are: Length: 6 ½ inches, Height: 2 ½ inches, Outside Diameter: 1 ½ inches, Diameter of the chamber: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 54 grams/1.90 ounces. This is an interesting piece of briar with a mixed finish that is unique and looks great. If you would like to add this you to your collection I will be putting it on the American Pipemakers Section of the rebornpipes store. Thanks for walking with me through the restoration process.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

Incredible Sandblast on a Hilson Avanti 11 Canadian

2 Replies

by Kenneth Lieblich

Greetings, one and all! It’s been a challenge getting pipe work done recently, as my home is undergoing renovations and, to quote Heroclitus, ‘All is flux, nothing stays still’. It is a delight to finally get another blog posted! I’m back with a beautiful pipe that put a smile on my face and I’m sure it’ll do the same for you. It’s been sitting in my boxes for a while, but it’s a great pipe and deserves to be back out in the world. It’s a handsome Hilson Avanti sandblasted Canadian. Normally, when I think of Hilson, my mind meanders to resin (or ‘pipenite’, as they called it) stylings from the Fantasia line – but not today! This is a pure briar pipe, with a lovely vulcanite stem. The pipe conveys a feeling of confidence: the thick, briar walls, the rugged blast, etc. It’s just a solid pipe. I acquired it a while back, but I don’t know the pipe’s individual history. It is in lovely condition and doesn’t appear to have been smoked much. What do the markings say? The underside of the shank shows, first, the words Hilson Avanti [over] Canadian (although Avanti is a bit obscured by the blast). To the right of that are the words Made in Belgium. Again, further to the right is the shape number, 11. Finally, the stem has a stylized H, indicating the Hilson company. Let’s check Pipedia to see what they have to say about the Hilson brand:

Jean-Claude Hillen (other sources: Jean-Paul) founded a trading company in the City of Bree in 1846. He soon turned his main interest on pipes and other tobacco related goods. Particularly in the 1960’s and still throughout the 1970’s the brand Hilson of Broers Hillen B.V. (Hillen Bros. Co.) was quite successful in many European countries. They produced large numbers of machine-made pipes covering the whole range of shapes and finishes. The pipes were well respected for good quality and craftsmanship at very moderate prices. Rarely seen there are also nice freehands from this era stamped MASTRO and signed by A.M. Sanoul, who is otherwise completely unknown as a pipemaker. All the same, in 1980 Hillen faced major financial problems. At this time there was only a second manufacturer of briars pipes in the Benelux countries, the Elbert Gubbels & Zonen B.V. in the Netherlands. The Belgian competitor being in trouble, Gubbels used the favour of the hour and bought up the company. The reason is plausible: in some countries, particularly in Germany, Hilson held larger market shares than Gubbels’ mainstay brand Big Ben. The Hillen plant in Bree was closed down shortly after and ever since then Hilson pipes are manufactured in Roermond, NL.Likewise, there is a bit more to be found from our friends over at Pipephil:

In 1846 a German named Jean Knödgen started to produce clay pipe in Belgium. In the late 19th century Jean Hillen who married into the Knödgen family took over the company and changed the firm in order to manufacture briar pipe. Jean Hillen had 2 sons: Jos Hillen was responsible for sales and Albert Hillen was responsible for the production. After WWII Albert founded the HILSON brand (Hillen and Son) and exported his pipes all over the world. In 1980 after having gone bankrupt, the Belgian brand from Bree (Limburg) was taken over by the Royal Dutch Pipe Factory.It’s also worth noting that I’ve seen several posts over at the PipeMagazine forums that state that the older (and better) Hilsons are marked “Made in Belgium”, as this one is.The pipe is in very nice shape. The stem had some minor tooth scratches, plus it was coated with a lot of oxidation. There were no significant issues with the stummel: it had only a bit of lava on the rim and a bit of cake in the bowl. I used isopropyl alcohol on a few cotton rounds and wiped down the stem to provide an initial cleaning of filth before moving on to the next steps. The primary cleaning came next. I disinfected the inside of the stem with both pipe cleaners and cotton swabs dipped in lemon-infused 99% isopropyl alcohol. I scrubbed thoroughly to make sure the interior was very clean.The goal of the next step is the removal (or minimization) of oxidation. Going to my sink, I used cream cleanser, cotton rounds, and a toothbrush, and scoured the stem to remove as much surface oxidation as possible. As the photos show, the result was a hideous, ochre-coloured mess – but better off the stem than on it.Once the stem was reasonably clean, I soaked it overnight in some Briarville Stem Oxidation Remover. This solution works to draw oxidation in the stem to the surface of the vulcanite. This is a major aid and an important step in ensuring a clean stem. The following day, I drew out the stem from its bath and scrubbed the lingering fluid with a toothbrush.As the stem was now clean and dry, I set about fixing the marks and dents in the vulcanite. This was done by filling those divots with black cyanoacrylate adhesive, impregnated with carbon and rubber. I left this to cure and moved on. After this, I painted the logo on the stem with some enamel nail polish. I restored the logo carefully and let it fully set before proceeding.The penultimate step for the stem is sanding. First, with my set of needle files, I reduced the bulk of the cyanoacrylate repairs. I removed the excess adhesive as near to the surface as possible, without cutting into the vulcanite. Following that, I used all nine of the micromesh sanding pads (1,500 through 12,000 grit) to sand out flaws, even out the vulcanite, and provide gentle polishing of the finished surface. I also applied pipe-stem oil while using the last five micromesh pads. There was a wonderful, deep black shine to the stem when I was done.As the stem was (nearly) complete, I moved on to the stummel. The first step was to ream out the bowl – that is to say, remove all the cake inside the bowl. This accomplished a couple of things. First (and most obviously), it cleaned the bowl and provided a refurbished chamber for future smoking. Second, when the old cake was removed, I could inspect the interior walls of the bowl and determine if there was damage or not. I used a reamer, a pipe knife, and a piece of sandpaper taped to a wooden dowel. Collectively, these ensured that all the debris was removed.Similar to the stem, I then cleaned the stummel with both pipe cleaners and cotton swabs dipped in lemon-infused 99% isopropyl alcohol.I then decided to ‘de-ghost’ the pipe – that is to say, exorcize the remaining filth from the briar. I filled the bowl and the shank with cotton balls, then saturated them with 99% isopropyl alcohol. I let the stummel sit overnight. This caused the remaining oils, tars and smells to leach out into the cotton.To tidy up the briar, I wiped down the outside, using a solution of a pH-neutral detergent and some distilled water, with cotton rounds. I also used a toothbrush in the crevices. This did a good job of cleaning any latent dirt on the surface of the briar. The last step of the cleaning process was to scour the inside of the stummel with the same mild detergent and tube brushes. This was the culmination of a lot of hard work in getting the pipe clean.Since the stummel is sandblasted, I only micromeshed the smooth part of the underside on the briar. I rubbed some LBE Before & After Restoration Balm into the briar and let it sit for 30 minutes or so. The balm moisturizes the wood and gives a beautiful depth to the briar. I then buffed the stummel with a microfibre cloth. For the final step, I took the pipe to my bench polisher and carefully buffed it – first the stem with a blue diamond compound, then the stummel with three coats of conservators’ wax. This procedure makes the pipe look its best – the stummel sings and the stem glows.

All done! This Hilson Avanti 11 Canadian looks fantastic again and is ready to be enjoyed by its next owner. I am pleased to announce that this pipe is for sale! If you are interested in acquiring it for your collection, please have a look in the ‘Various Makers’ section of the store here on Steve’s website. You can also email me directly at kenneth@knightsofthepipe.com. The approximate dimensions of the pipe are as follows: length 6 in. (154 mm); height 1⅞ in. (47 mm); bowl diameter 1½ in. (38 mm); chamber diameter ⅞ in. (22 mm). The weight of the pipe is 1⅛ oz. (34 g). I hope you enjoyed reading the story of this pipe’s restoration as much as I enjoyed restoring it. If you are interested in more of my work, please follow me here on Steve’s website or send me an email. Thank you very much for reading and, as always, I welcome and encourage your comments.