Tag Archives: Bowl – finishing

Cleaning up my first Sofia find – A Shell Pipe 141


Blog by Steve Laug

After I had settled into my hotel in Sofia, Bulgaria on a recent trip Dal took me to one of his pipe hunting haunts – an outside antique market in the shadow of Sofia’s largest church building – Nevski Cathedral. We visited the same vendor where he had purchased the Dr. Plumb Oom Paul pipe that he restored and restemmed. He had a lot of pipes on his table for sale. I worked through them and purchased one – a bent billiard with a windcap. Then I went through a bag of bowls and stems that he had and chose the bowl shown in the photo below. The bowl was stamped Shell Pipe 141. The combination sandblast and rustication give the pipe a great look. The finish looked to be pretty decent under the grime that filled the nooks and crannies of the blast. The rim was filled in with tars and oils to the point that the rustication on the surface was invisible. There was a pretty thick uneven cake throughout the bowl. The shank was dirty and almost clogged with tars. There was no stem on the pipe but there was no crack in the shank and I was pretty certain that I had a stem that would fit it once I got home to Vancouver.Shell1 Shell2 Shell3 Shell4I went through my can of stems and found a stem that would fit with a bit of adjustment. I sanded the tenon in order to get a proper fit in the mortise of the bowl. The stem was slightly larger in diameter than the shank end and would need to be reduced to fit. The star on the stem would disappear once the stem was properly fit in the shank.Shell5 Shell6 Shell7 Shell8 Shell9I used the Dremel and sanding drum to reduce the diameter of the stem to match the shank. I sanded it with the stem in the pipe to make sure that I could match the stem and shank. I sanded it as close as possible with the Dremel and then worked on it by hand to get the lines of the fit correct.Shell10I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the scratches left behind by the Dremel sanding drum and to fine tune the fit against the shank.Shell11 Shell12With the stem fit completed I turned to the bowl. I took a close-up photo of the bowl to show the build up on the rim and the state of the cake in the bowl.Shell13I reamed the bowl back to bare briar with a PipNet pipe reamer and finished cleaning it up with a Savinelli Pipe Knife.Shell14 Shell15 Shell16I scrubbed the sandblast/rusticated finish with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush and worked on the rim with a wire brush.Shell17I rinsed the bowl with warm water under the tap (being careful to keep it out of the inside of the bowl). The cleaned briar is shown in the next series of photos.Shell18 Shell19I cleaned out the airway in the stem, mortise and airway in the bowl with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol.Shell20 Shell21With the bowl cleanup finished and the internals on the stem down it was time to work on the finish of the stem. I wet sanded it with 1500-2400 micromesh sanding pads and gave it a coat of Obsidian Oil. I dry sanded it with 3200-4000 grit micromesh pads and gave it another coat of oil. I finished sanding it with 6000-12000 grit pads and gave it a final coat of Oil. I let it sit until the oil was dry.Shell22 Shell23 Shell24I buffed the bowl and stem with Blue Diamond on the wheel. I used a light touch on the bowl and a heavier touch on the stem as I did not want to get the polishing compound in the grooves and crevices of the blast. I gave the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax and buffed it with a clean buffing pad. I gave the bowl several coats of Conservator’s Wax and buffed it with a shoe brush. I hand buffed the finished pipe with a microfibre cloth. The finished pipe is shown below. I am pleased with the outcome. The bowl from Sofia, Bulgaria and the new stem from Canada work well together. Thanks for looking.Shell25 Shell26 Shell27 Shell28 Shell29 Shell30 Shell31

Finally a Simple Clean up – A Champ Freehand


Blog by Steve Laug

This beautifully grained freehand is stamped on the heel of the bowl CHAMP of Denmark over Larsen & Stigart. The pipe was in pretty good shape with the finish intact and just dirty. The grain on the bowl is quite nice and there are some unique swirled carvings in the briar on the right and left side of the bowl near the bottom. There is also one swirl at the top edge of the back of the bowl. These in no way detract from the beauty of the briar but actually follow the flow of the grain and add a unique touch to the bowl. The rim of the bowl was dirty with an overflow of lava on the top surface. The inner and out edges of the rim were in great shape and showed no damage. The bowl itself had a thin cake that was uneven throughout the bowl. The stem was oxidized and had some tooth chatter on the top and bottom sides near the button. There were no deep tooth marks just a light chatter.Free2 Free3 Free4I took a close-up photo of the stamping on the bottom of the bowl and of the cake in the bowl and the tar on the bowl rim.Free5 Free6In the back of my mind I had a vague memory of the CHAMP brand. I could not dig out the details but I knew that it was not a carver but rather some kind of distributor. I turned to Pipedia and to Pipephil’s site to do a bit of research on the brand. I found the information that was niggling at my memory. Champ of Denmark pipes were made for and distributed by Larsen & Stigart, a famous tobacconist in Copenhagen that is now closed. The warehouse had a workshop where several pipe carvers stayed. Two of the more famous of those carvers were Karl Erik Ottendahl and Soren Eric Andersen. They supplied some fancy Danish Pipes to Dunhill in London. I have included the two links to the material I found below. https://pipedia.org/wiki/Champ_of_Denmark ; http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-c4.html

I started the clean up on the Champ by working on the rim of the pipe. I scrubbed the rim with saliva on cotton pads to remove the tars. I scraped it with a pen knife that I used for this kind of work and rescrubbed it. The oils and tars came off with little work. There was still work to do but the majority of the buildup was gone. I reamed the bowl with a Savinelli Pipe Knife to remove the crumbling cake.Free7 Free8 Free9I scrubbed the rim harder with saliva and cotton pads and then wet sanded it with 1500-2400 grit sanding pads and was able to finish removing the last of the oils and tars.Free10I buffed the bowl with carnauba wax and then with a clean flannel buffing pad. The buffed and shined bowl is shown in the photos below.Free11 Free12 Free13 Free14I scrubbed out the interior of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, pipe cleaners and cotton swabs. It did not take too much work to clean out the insides of the pipe.Free15I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the oxidation and tooth chatter. I wet sanded the stem with 1500-2400 grit micromesh sanding pads. I rubbed it down with Obsidian Oil. I dry sanded it with 3200-4000 grit pads and gave it another coat of oil. I finished sanding it with 6000-12000 grit pads and gave it a final coat of Obsidian Oil. I let the oil dry.Free16 Free17 Free18 Free19I buffed the bowl and stem with Blue Diamond on the wheel and then gave both multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed it with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine on the pipe. I hand buffed it with a microfibre cloth to deepen the shine. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. It is a beautiful pipe and I am glad that I finally had one that was easy to clean up. This one will be up on the rebornpipes store shortly. If you are interested let me know. Thanks for looking.Free20 Free21 Free22 Free23 Free24 Free25 Free26 Free27

Breathing New Life into a Design by Curtis Metal Pipe


Blog by Steve Laug

This smoking metal pipe is really Art Deco looking. It has a metal finned bowl with a pressure fit top cap holding in a briar bowl. There is a threaded connector between the bowl and the metal shank base. The connector threads into both the bowl and the shank. The shank has a pointed end cap that is frozen in place. The bowl was caked and worn. The stem had bite marks on both the top and the bottom sides near the button. The stem is a military mount that sits in a stepped down interior of the metal shank. There is a tube at the end of the airway in the shank that seems to have holes in it as the air flows through when blown into the end. The exterior of the pipe is oxidized and dull. The bottom of the shank is stamped Design by Curtis over Pat. Pend. It is a brand about which I know nothing.Curtis1 Curtis2 Curtis3 Curtis4I took some close-up photos of the bowl and the stamping on the shank to give a better idea of what the pipe looked like when I started.Curtis5 Curtis6I took the pipe apart to have a look at the pieces individually and see what I could learn from the way it fit together. I was unable to take the end cap off the shank and I was not willing to damage the cone shaped piece to work it free.Curtis7 Curtis8 Curtis9I wanted to learn more about the pipe so I did a bit of digging on the Smoking Metal Pipes Site and found this information and pictures (http://www.smokingmetal.co.uk/pipe.php?page=52 ). The site showed a picture of another version of the pipe. It may be newer than the one that I had in hand. It was marked as a Curtis Custom-Built Pipe Model 100. It was manufactured by Curtis Industries of 1120 East 222nd Street, Cleveland, Ohio. They were first seen around 1946. The pipe that was pictured was different in several ways. The stem was different in that it had a filter insert and a threaded tenon. My version did not have a filter system and also did not have the stinger end cap that held the filter in place. The pictures that follow come from that site. I have cropped and rearranged them to better suit the order of my blog. The brochure also comes from that site.Curtis9a Curtis9bFrom the Smoking Metal Site it appears that the patent was applied for 25 December 1945. It had the patent number #D143257 and the inventor is named as Howard Abrams from University Heights, Ohio. The site also showed a cut away photo of the bowl and cup.Curtis10It also includes a copy of the brochure that was included with the pipe. The cover of the brochure reads The Curtis Custom-Built Pipe and three descriptors – Streamlined, Precision Built, Guaranteed. The back reads The Curtis Pipe carries a six month guarantee. The rest reads No. 52927 over Curtis Industries 1120 East 222nd St. Cleveland, Ohio over Model 100 Patent Pending.Curtis11Inside it reads A few simple ways to care for your Curtis Pipe. I typed out the contents below the picture.Curtis121. Break your pipe in slowly. For the first few smokes fill the pipe loosely and only half way then smoke the new Curtis Pipe slowly and all the way down. Don’t puff hard or fast or you may burn your tongue and may burn out the bowl as well.

2. Don’t collect too much cake, a cracked, burnt and useless bowl will result.

3. Never knock your pipe on hard surfaces since you may split the shank or break the bit. Don’t bite on the bit too hard.

4. Keep your pipe clean. Use your cleaner every few smokes and occasionally use a good fluid to cleanse it.

5. By removing the knurled cap on the pipe stem, a standard pipe filter can be used.

The Curtis Pipe, new in design is produced with a high degree of precision, designed for a cool, clean smoke. Enjoy the full smoking benefits of the pipe by following above suggestions.

Armed with this information I took the pipe apart and began to clean and restore it. I reamed the bowl with the Savinelli Pipe Knife to remove the cake and clean up the briar rim of the bowl insert.Curtis13 Curtis14I unscrewed the bowl and the threaded connector from the bottom of the bowl. I cleaned out the connector and the airway in the bowl with alcohol, pipe cleaners and cotton swabs.Curtis15 Curtis16I scrubbed the rim and the interior of the bowl with cotton swabs and alcohol to clean out the remaining debris in the bowl and on the rim.Curtis17I scrubbed out the mortise and airway with alcohol, pipe cleaners and cotton swabs to remove the tars and residue.Curtis18 Curtis19I heated the end cap and still could not remove it so I cleaned out the inside of the airway from the top of the shank with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol. It was a bit of a pain to work around the tube in the shank below but I was able to remove the grime and build up in that place.Curtis20I set the shank aside and worked on the stem. I cleaned it out with alcohol. There were two deep tooth marks on top and the underside of the stem. Curtis21 Curtis22I wiped the stem surface down and filled in the dents with black super glue. I sprayed the glue with the accelerator and then sanded the repairs down with 220 grit sandpaper and a medium grit sanding stick until they matched the surface of the stem.Curtis23 Curtis24 Curtis25I wet sanded the stem with 1500-2400 grit micromesh sanding pads and rubbed it down with Obsidian Oil. I dry sanded with 3200-4000 grit pads and gave it another coat of oil. I finished sanding it with 6000-12000 grit pads and gave it a final coat of oil. I let the oil dry.Curtis26 Curtis27 Curtis28I dry sanded the aluminum barrel shank and the rim of the bowl with 4000-12000 grit micromesh pads. I buffed the stem with Blue Diamond and then buffed it with a clean flannel buffing pad. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. It is a beautiful example of the Curtis pipe and the finished pipe is a great addition to my metal collection. Thanks for looking.Curtis29 Curtis30 Curtis31 Curtis32 Curtis33 Curtis34 Curtis35 Curtis36

ADDENDUM

I received and email from one of the blog’s readers, Doug with some photos of the break down of the bowl system. It looks like the rim top is indeed pressure fit. Thanks for providing these photos Doug. They certainly add to our understanding of the way the bowl was designed. thumbnail_20160709_144214-1_resized[1] thumbnail_20160709_144222-1_resized[1] thumbnail_20160709_144234-1_resized[1] thumbnail_20160709_144253-1_resized[1] thumbnail_20160709_144305-1_resized[1]

 

A Simple Cleanup – NOS Simpsons Scotland Billiard 382


Blog by Steve Laug

A pipe my brother picked up quite awhile ago on Ebay was a nice vintage Simpsons 382. The seller said that they thought it had been lightly smoked. From the photos that were included in the sale I can see why they thought the pipe was smoked. It looked rough. The finish was dirty with dirt in grooves of the sandblast. There are parts of the blast that are deep and those had dust and grime in them. The rim appeared to be flawless and clean the inner and outer edges are undamaged. The dimensions of this petite pipe were given and it appeared to be proportional and attractive. The bowl is 1 5/8″ tall and measures about 1 1/8″ across the top. The chamber is ¾”. The length is 5 ½”. The saddle stem has some oxidation and scratches from sitting around and never being used. It has a faintly stamped and peeling M on top of the stem but I have no idea what that refers to. The pipe is marked as follows “Simpsons Scotland 382 “. The seller said that from their research that the 382 is a Comoy’s shape number. The photos below are the ones included in the advert on Ebay.Simpson1 Simpson2 Simpson3 Simpson4When the pipe arrived it was actually in much better condition than the photos portrayed it. The finish was dirty but it was also a dark brown with light undertones coming through. The stem was oxidized but there were no tooth marks or chatter. The pipe looked like it had been sitting a very long time in a cupboard or on a shelf and the dust had settled into the crevices and the sunlight had done its work on vulcanite but it indeed was unsmoked. In my opinion it is New Old Stock or NOS. The bowl has a carbon bowl coating but the airway is absolutely clean. There is no debris or tar in it. All those things combined make think that it has never been smoked. I took a few photos of the pipe when I brought it to the work table. I was due for one that was an easy clean up and this looked like it might be the one.Simpson5 Simpson6I took a close-up photo of the rim and bowl to give you a look at what I see. The carbon coating in the bowl is untouched by fire. The rim is flawless.Simpson7I also took a close-up of the stamping on the underside of the shank. It read SIMPSONS over SCOTLAND and below Scotland and to the right (almost on the side of the shank) was the number stamp 382.Simpson8With the interior pretty clean I decided to run a couple of pipe cleaners through the mortise, airway and into the bowl and the airway in the stem. The only thing that came out was the carcass of a small bug that fell out of the stem ahead of the pipe cleaner.Simpson9 Simpson10I scrubbed the exterior of the pipe with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush to remove the dust and grime in the crevices and grooves of the bowl. I rinsed it off with warm water and dried off the bowl with a soft cloth. I hand buffed the bowl with a shoe brush and you can see the state of the cleaned bowl – it has a deep shine.Simpson11I sanded the stem with 220-600 grit sandpaper to break up the oxidation. In the process of cleaning it the M decal came off and the stem was unmarked. I decided not to worry about it as it was not clear what it meant anyway. I wet sanded it with 1500-2400 grit micromesh sanding pads and then buffed it with red Tripoli. I rubbed it down with Obsidian Oil and then dry sanded it with 3200-4000 grit micromesh pads. I gave it another coat of oil. I finished sanding it with 6000-12000 grit pads and gave it a final coat of oil. I let it dry.Simpson12 Simpson13 Simpson14I buffed the stem with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel and gave it several coats of carnauba wax. I gave the bowl several coats of Conservator’s Wax and hand buffed it with a shoe brush. I buffed the bowl and stem with a clean flannel buffing pad and then with a microfibre cloth to raise the shine. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. It is a beauty. Thanks for looking.Simpson15 Simpson16 Simpson17 Simpson18 Simpson19 Simpson20 Simpson21

Restoring my Paris Finds – A Pair of Hilson Double Ecume Sandblast Pipes


Blog by Steve Laug

As I wrote earlier in another blog, I found these two pipes on an evening walk to dinner in the Latin Quarter of Paris (https://rebornpipes.com/2016/06/10/some-good-pipe-finds-on-a-recent-work-trip-to-europe/). The pair of Hilson pipes was stamped in block letters Hilson over Double Ecume with the word Sandblast following. The delicate canted Dublin was stamped with the shape number 5 just before the stem shank union, while the stack with the saddle stem was stamped with the shape number 95/S on the bottom of the bowl. The finish on both pipes was dirty and worn but not ruined. The bowls were meerlined and the top of the Dublin had a heavy build up of tars and cake that overflowed the bowl. The stack/billiard was less dirty but the cake overflowed onto the rim as well. The meer lining was darkened. The bowl in the Dublin had a thick cake that extended to the bottom of the bowl and reduced the size of the already petite bowl. The bowl on the stack was less thick but it nonetheless reduced the diameter of the bowl as well. The stems on both pipes had some tooth chatter and light oxidation but would easily clean up. Both stems bore a stylized capital H on the left side. As I looked at them I was glad I had picked them up for small sum of 10 Euros or slightly over 14 dollars Canadian. Hilson1 Hilson2 Hilson3 Hilson4

I remember when I purchased them I took them back to the hotel in Paris and used a wooden coffee stirrer to scrape away some of the cake and debris in the bowls to check the meerlinings. I was hoping that they were intact all the way to the bottom of the bowl. I breathed a sigh of relief when I found that they were uncracked as far as I could see.

I was curious as to the stamping on the pipes. I have cleaned and restored quite a few Hilson pipes over the years – many of them meerschaum lined – and I do not recall seeing the Double Ecume stamping before. First I wanted to know what the name Ecume meant so I looked it up in a French/English dictionary and found that it meant Foam. Thus the pipe name was Hilson Double Foam. I liked the French far better! It sounded more elegant. I used Google and found out that the pipes were made when Hilson was still a Belgian Company. This dates them as pre 1980 as the company was then purchased by Gubbels in Holland. I checked on Pipedia and found an advertisement for Hilson Elan pipes. The sandblast looks like the one on my Ecume pipes. The interesting thing that came from this Wally Frank Catalogue advertisement was the description of the tube in the shank. It is described as Hilson’s special tubular dry smoking condenser. You can see a line drawing of that in the photo below marked as FIG. A (circled in red in the photo below).Hilson5From that link I checked out Chris Keene’s Pipe pages site for more information and found the following catalogue page. http://pipepages.com/2wf14.htm. Even thought the advertising page is for Hilson Fantasia Pipes it confirmed several facts for me that I had not previously known. First was that the meerschaum lined bowl was cut from block meerschaum and not a pressed meerschaum. That is probably why it had survived intact through the years. Second, that all Hilson Belgian pipes had the condenser tube in the shank. I also found a page from an Iwan Ries Catalogue from 1962 that showed meerschaum lined briar pipes. Sadly I could not view the page as the link was not functional.Hilson6I carefully reamed out the cake in both pipes with the Savinelli Pipe Knife to take it back to the meerschaum lining. I did not want to gouge or chip the meerlining so I proceeded with caution. I sanded the interior of the bowl with a piece of 229 grit sandpaper around the cutting head of the PipeNet pipe reaming tool to take out all of the cake in the bowls.Hilson7 Hilson8Once I cleaned the bowls I decided to top the two pipes to remove the build up on the rim surfaces. Since both pipes appeared to have smooth rims topping them would not damage the original look of the pipe and would allow me to smooth out the top of the meerschaum bowl insert. I topped both bowls on 220 grit sandpaper on the topping board.Hilson9When I finished topping them the meerschaum was clean the surface of the rim was smooth.Hilson10I sanded the rims with 1500-2400 grit micromesh sanding pads to remove the scratches left behind by topping the bowls. The polished rims looked really smooth and ready to be stained. I stained the rim of the briar outer bowl with a dark brown stain pen and a Sharpie black permanent marking pen to get the dark brown colour of the bowl.Hilson11I scrubbed out the inside of the stem and the shank of the pipes with alcohol, pipe cleaners and cotton swabs. There was a lot of grime in both pipes. The condenser tubes on both were coated with tars and oils that I removed with 0000 steel wool. I had to reshape the open end of the tube in the Dublin stem as someone had tried to remove it with pliers. It was crushed and there were some marks from the jaws of the pliers. I reshaped it with an ice pick inserted and heated the tube with a lighter. I was able to bring it back to round. I was also able with the heating to remove both tube inserts and clean the stems before putting them back in place. I scrubbed the briar with a tooth brush and Murphy’s Oil Soap and rinsed them with tap water. I dried them off and both bowls were clean.Hilson12I sanded the tooth marks and chatter on the stems with 220 and 380 grit sandpaper and a medium grit sanding stick. I was able to remove all of the marks.Hilson13 Hilson14I wet sanded the stems with 1500-2400 grit micromesh sanding pads and rubbed them down with Obsidian Oil. I dry sanded the stems with 3200-4000 grit pads and gave them another coat of oil. I finished sanding them with 6000-12000 grit pads and gave them a final coat of Obsidian Oil and let them dry.Hilson15 Hilson16 Hilson17I buffed the stems with Blue Diamond on the wheel and gave them both multiple coats of carnauba wax. I hand waxed the bowls with Conservator’s Wax and a shoe brush. I hand buffed both the bowls and stems with a microfibre cloth to add depth to the shine. The finished pair of Hilsons is shown in the photos below. They are a beautiful set of pipes and serve as a reminder of my recent Paris trip. Thanks for looking.Hilson18 Hilson19 Hilson20 Hilson21 Hilson22 Hilson23

Restoring a Kaywoodie 61 Circus Pipe


Blog by Lance Leslie

My grandfather was a pipe smoker up until the 80’s. I can remember him plowing the field with his pipe and tractor smoking. His favorite pipe was a Kaywoodie shape 61. He called it his “Circus Pipe”. He called it that because of the odd shape of the bowl opening. It was an oval bowl opening and I have never seen one before and I had yet to find one after years of searching. That is until two weeks ago.

I was scoping out eBay one night and found the elusive shape no. 61 in an auction with 12 minutes left. I put in a ridiculous bid and then it was a waiting game. Twelve minutes later, the pipe was mine!! The bidding did not get too out of hand, so that was a plus, but it did go for a hefty price considering the shape it was in.

I remember my papa gouging out the cake with an old hawkbill knife. The oval bowl could not be reamed with a reamer due to the oval shaped bowl. This led to there being chunks carved out of the top of the bowl. This pipe looked to have the same problem. Here is the pipe as it arrived. BTW, it turned out to be a Super Grain!!!! Bonus!Circus1 Circus2 Circus3 Circus4 Circus5The pipe was in pretty bad shape. The bowl’s top was gouged just like my grandpa’s. I decided to top the bowl and use my Dremel stone sanding tool and put the bowl back in round. This was real nerve-racking because I could really ruin this pipe. But I bit the bullet and went for it.Circus6I then used some rolled up sandpaper to bevel the edges.Circus7 Circus8I then lightly wet sanded the outside of the stummel to get rid of the surface scratches and gave the pipe a rub down of Murphy’s Oil Soap.Circus9 Circus10After the oil soap bath, I gave the pipe a wipe of Watco Danish Oil Dark Walnut and then let that dry.Circus11While the Danish Oil was drying, I took the stem down sanding pad lane using 1500 through 12,000 to bring the stem to a showroom shine.Circus12 Circus13I reamed the pipe with a pin knife and uncovered some gouges inside the interior of the bowl. I mixed up some pipe mud using activated charcoal and sour cream. I mixed the two together into a creamy grey paste. I applied it liberally inside the pipe and let that dry.Circus14 Circus15 Circus16Then with the pipe clean on the inside and out, I shined the pipe using carnauba wax and my buffer. Here are the final results. This is one of my Holy Grail pipes!!!Circus17 Circus18 Circus19 Circus20 Circus21

A Newbie Restore of a Dr. Plumb 9456 Oom Paul


Blog by Dal Stanton

It is a pleasure to introduce Dal Stanton to you all. He has become a good friend through the work that I do. I just returned from spending time with him in Sofia, Bulgaria where we went pipe hunting and enjoyed some great smokes over dinner together. Here is his first blog for rebornpipes. I hope that he will do many more. Thanks Dal. Welcome to rebornpipes as a contributor. — Steve

Well, after much encouragement and a bit of prodding from Steve, I’m submitting this, my first full restore, to rebornpipes exclusively (and hesitantly) from a newbie’s perspective.  After discovering the hobby of restoration only last year, I’ve been intrigued by the restoration process and amazed at the skills and blogging of Steve Laug (rebornpipes.com), and Charles Lemon (Dad’sPipes.com) and several other contributors.  I thoroughly enjoyed the ‘Mission Impossible’ episodes that Steve and Charles collaborated on.  All the posts have been workshops for me as I’ve pieced together the different steps and techniques of pipe restoration.  Since I live in Sofia, Bulgaria, and on the 10th floor of a formerly Communist ‘Block’ apartment complex, I do not have a basement or a garage to set up a workspace.  My wife has lovingly allowed me to set up shop in our bedroom (yes, I know that limits the night-time hours for restoration and reflection!) but it has forced me to develop ‘compact’ ways of approaching the hobby.  Instead of polishing wheels I utilize a Dremel with many wheels purchased from China on eBay!  It works well for me and most importantly, I’m enjoying something that has surprised me with the satisfaction involved in finding a tired candidate that can be redeemed and brought back to life.

So, in April I found the Oom Paul bowl from a vendor in an outside antique market in the shadow of Sofia’s largest church building – Nevski Cathedral.  I enjoy my developing relationship with the young Bulgarian man who enjoys the bartering event as much as I and has begun to recognize me in the crowd as I have become a regular buying customer.  After looking through his holdings and striking deals for a few tired candidates for future attention, he produced a bag full of orphaned bowls and stems.  At this point in my early pipe collecting strategy, my eye is drawn to the styles I’ve yet to add.  The Oom Paul jumped out even though I wasn’t sure I wanted to touch it!  The first question that came to my mind as I got a feel for the bowl in my palm was, “How could anyone smoke a pipe to a state that I was looking at!”  I took the pictures below when I got home from the antique market. Dal1 Dal2 Dal3 Dal4My initial look at the markings found Dr. Plumb over London Made with what I assume is the shape number 9456.  I checked it out in Pipedia and found this:  The Dr. Plumb brand name is owned by A. Oppenheimer & Co., Limited, owners of Cadogan Investments, Ltd. J.B. Rubinovich, GBD’s Parisian sales manager, created this brand in 1925. The pipe was produced by the Ruchon & Verguet and also Ropp factories (Saint-Claude, France). In 1962 a Dr. Plumb pipe sold for between C$3.95 and C$4.95, or $31.72 in 2015 U.S. dollars and pipes can still be purchased from this brand for a similar price today.  These pipes have long been advertised as Dr. Plumb’s Perfect Pipe, that name coming from an aluminum tube system designed to keep the smoke cool and dry while at the same time permitting the “cooling chamber” to be cleaned by simply twisting the stem. While Dr. Plumb pipes were long made in France and stamped accordingly, they are now British made.

The bowl was almost closed with the buildup of lava and the rim was in pretty tough shape revealing at least one unfortunate drop on the front – that part that I could see.  A look down the shank revealed something lodged.  I couldn’t detect any cracks or burns.  I enjoyed the feel of the bowl in my hand and the briar had great potential – I liked the dark reddish hue of the briar and the gentle rustification seemed to enhance the mostly hidden grain but showing promise.  I would have to ream the bowl and clean the rim before I could know what might lie underneath.  I would also have to find an appropriate stem too to fit the Dr. Plumb, no small task in Bulgaria.  Since I was soon to make a trip to the US for my daughter’s graduation from college (Yes!), I decided to order the needed stem and bring it back to Bulgaria in order to complete the restoration.  Steve recommended J. H. Lowes (http://www.jhlowe.com/).  I discovered that finding the correct stem wasn’t too difficult but I was a bit nervous about the measurements.  The directions on the website were pretty clear that the shank diameter would do the trick.  I wasn’t sure whether the tenon measurements factored in at all.  I purchased the Giudici bit – Round Saddle 17mm X 75mm.  While I was buying a stem for my Oom Paul project, I bought a selection of nickel silver bands to have on hand in Bulgaria.  While I was looking at the bands, I had the idea of dressing the Oom Paul with a band – and since it was my first honest to goodness restore – I splurged and bought a sterling silver band – oh, to get the correct size!  Again, the size was measured by the diameter of the shank as the stem which looked to be at 17.5mm.   I might also mention that Tim West at JH Lowe answered my emailed newbie questions and was a great help.  Having put in motion the strategic plan with the stem and band, I moved to the cleanup of the bowl.  In order to soften the muck buildup in the bowl I put the bowl in a bath of isopropyl 95% overnight.  The pictures reveal the post-bath bowl working in my ‘satellite workspace’ on the 10th floor balcony!Dal5 Dal6 Dal7I tried unsuccessfully to remove the obstacle in the shank using a wooden chopstick as a tool.  It works great on Chinese food, but not so well here.  I decided to leave the shank for the time and I moved to reaming the bowl with the Pipnet reaming kit that recently arrived from Germany – eBay of course.  I started with the smallest blade working toward the larger bringing the tobacco chamber back to the wood.  Not having used the reaming kit too much, I’ve learned that it works best if I allow each blade to do the work – not applying too much vertical pressure on the tool.  Simply rotating the tool (clockwise) with consistent pressure proved to do the job.  I had a pretty big pile of ‘charcoal dust’ resulting from the ream – Question: Can this be used for stem repairs mixing with superglue?  After completing the ream I turned my attention to the rim.  I used a brass brush and isopropyl to clear away the remaining lava flow allowing me to see more clearly the condition. The rim would need to be topped but the prospect of ’re-rustifying’ the rim was a daunting thought at this point.  The rim appeared to have a ‘lined’ rustification before, but I decided to put that question off till later. These pictures show the progress.Dal8 Dal9Moving to the shank, I knew that I would need to do extraction work.  After working with several Qtips and a dental probe I was not able to extract the muck.  Drawing on previous rebornpipes posts, I decided to use a wood screw to remove an obstruction.  While I don’t have an extraction tool like Steve’s, in Bulgaria we do have wood screws.  Carefully I inserted a smaller diameter wood screw into the mortise slowly rotating the screw to grip the obstruction without damaging the briar.  Thankfully, the battle was not long and the pictures reveal the unearthed obstacle to now allow pipe cleaners to do their part.Dal10 Dal11 Dal12When the remains of what appeared to be an old filter were removed, I went to work on the airway with pipe cleaners and Qtips dipped in isopropyl 95%.  Cleaning the Oom Paul seemed to go on forever.  Part of the problem was that I could not quite figure out through ‘Qtip feel’ what the design was in the internals of the bowl.  No matter how many Qtips I put in, they didn’t seem to make a dent on the muck.  So I went to the internet and discovered on puff.com questions from what appeared to be another newbie trying to figure out Oom Paul gunk problems.  I discovered that Dr. Plumb’s internal design had a trap that would collect the moisture while the airway flowed over it – theoretically giving the proverbial ‘dryer and cooler’ smoking experience.  I’ve included the cut-away picture that helped me understand what I was dealing with in my seemingly unending cleaning project.  If I had a retort at this point, I would have put it to work (I just ordered one on eBay that I would also pick up in the US and bring back to Bulgaria!).  I settled for loading the bowl and shank with isopropyl and letting it sit overnight again hopefully to loosen things up more.  The next day I used a bunch of Qtips and pipe cleaners to clean the bowl sufficiently for me.  At this point I put the project aside in anticipation of my trip to the US.  I needed to have stem and band in hand before I proceeded with the bowl preparation and finishing.  I would also return from the US with purchased cleaning and finishing supplies that I cannot find in Bulgaria.  Thankfully, Qtips are in great supply in Bulgaria!Dal13http://www.puff.com/forums/vb/general-pipe-forum/175391-oom-paul-gunk-problem-2.html

Dal14My time in the US for my youngest daughter’s graduation from college was a blessing as my wife and I were reunited with our 5 children and now, 2 grandchildren.  We were happy to meet our newest grandson who was born only recently!  I returned with a suitcase full of eBay estate pipe purchases to compliment my local finds – as well as cleaning and finishing supplies that I could not find in Bulgaria.  My new retort arrived too and I’m looking forward to giving it a go – though I am a bit nervous about boiling alcohol!  Also in hand were the new stem and band that JH Lowe had delivered to my US mailbox.  I was anxious to see if my measurements were accurate and to continue my Oom Paul project.  The first thing I discovered was that the tenon of the new stem was too large and would need to be resized.  I was relieved to see that the actual diameter measurement of the shank was correct.  From this I learned that there seems to be no standard tenon sizing with new stems – the most important measurement is the exterior dimensions, so that the stem and the shank have a proper mating.  Given that I had not shaped a tenon before, I discovered that I had all the tools needed after a quick email question to Steve – what I didn’t know I would have was the patience to go slowly!  My biggest concern was that the ’rounding’ of the tenon would not be true as I downsized it with the use of Dremel, files and sandpaper.  I knew also that I didn’t want to have to repair a previously uncracked shank by forcing a too large tenon into the mortise.  I ALSO knew that I didn’t want to take too much off the tenon and it be too loose and then have to build it back up with clear nail polish (epoxy) which I’ve had to do before.  With questions and concerns loaded in my conscious mind, I went to work on the brand new stem.  The pictures show the progress. Dal15 Dal16 Dal17 Dal18After bringing the tenon down to close proximity to the mortise size, I gently tried the fit the tenon without pushing.  I did this several times while slowly taking more vulcanite off the tenon.  I discovered that when I partially inserted the tenon into the mortise to test it, the places on the tenon that were more firmly in contact with the mortise wall would be shinier – thus cluing me in to where I needed to apply the file more directly.  I also discovered that the positioning of the stem in the shank – as it progressed more deeply into the mortise – began to reveal a more favorable positioning of the stem for the eventual bend direction that would be made.  The technique I used (discovered!) that seemed to make sense as I started the process was to shape the tenon as a cone that gradually brought the tenon tip to the correct diameter of the mortise.  I then moved gradually working that diameter toward the base of the tenon.  By doing this I was more effectively able to remove the vulcanite evenly and not have a crooked or untrue tenon.  The pictures below show the seated tenon from different angles.  I realized that the base of the tenon where it ties into the stem was pretty roughed up from my use of the Dremel. It unevenly pushed out at the shank and needed more attention.  I decided to put the stem aside for a while and turn to the bowl – I needed some new scenery at this point!Dal19Looking to the rim, I took some closer pictures as a reminder of the rustification design.  The damage on the front of the bowl was significant and the bowl needed to be topped. I moved out onto the balcony so as to minimize the sawdust in our bedroom (helping my wife to be happier 🙂 and I spread out 230 sandpaper on a flat surface (cutting board).  I wanted to take off enough of the top to remove the rim damage but not too much to maintain the bowl proportions.Dal20 Dal21I was satisfied with the topping at this point.  However, what the topping revealed was the beautiful briar underneath.  Part of what has attracted me to this hobby is the ‘surprise’ I get from each peek of revealed briar grain – never the same, always creatively new with potential beauty to be more fully revealed.  Getting ready for staining the bowl, I used a dark mahogany stain stick (from Italy) to darken the rim and bring out the dark rich reds I’m seeing in the briar.Dal22 Dal23I have yet to find an alcohol based stain in Bulgaria that Steve uses in his restorations.  The stains are pigment based with water.  So, the ‘flaming’ technique that I’ve studied on rebornpipes doesn’t come without some help.  I used a Cherrywood stain and diluted it with 50% alcohol as the base stain.  Again, reaching for the red-tones that I see in the briar.  When I applied the stain mix I used a cotton ball and let it flow over the bowl surface.  I was careful to have full coverage by picking up the candle stick and cork set-up and manipulating the stain so it reached the inverted rim.  When I applied the lighter, it still didn’t flame but I was able to essentially ‘dry’ the stain to the wood by moving the lighter lightly over the surface.  I think it pretty closely achieved the same thing – sealing the dye in the grain.  I repeated the process a second time – the pictures show the progress.  Oh, and shot glasses make for good stain mixers in cramped quarters! (Also, thanks to my wife for providing the candle holder :-).  I put the stained bowl aside for several hours to allow the stain to set – I suppose it needed it, but I had other things to do!Dal24I was anxious to get back to the project because I would be able to employ new supplies that I just brought back from the US – Tripoli, Blue Diamond and carnauba wax!  I also had purchased different Dremel wheels for each different application.  Based upon my readings, I used felt wheels for the Tripoli and blue diamond applications – in that order.  Then, to bring out the grain further, I used a cotton wheel attachment for the carnauba wax application.  Since Dremels have a very high RPM potential, I buffed at the slowest setting and kept the wheels moving so as to not overly heat up a particular area.  Applying the carnauba wax needed some heat to spread the wax evenly over the bowl surface, but I soon was able to see the way the wax liquefied and I used that to work over a particular area and then move on.  Its difficult describing the ‘rush’ of seeing the beauty of the briar grain emerge with each application.  It was at this point I decided not to rusticate the rim, but to leave it smooth, revealing the grain and to me, a very classic appearance when adding the band.  The pictures show the bowl but I know that I will need to polish up more after applying the band later on.Dal25 Dal26 Dal27 Dal28With the bowl restoration nearly complete, I was re-energized to look at the stem.  The tenon needed to be more finely-tuned to fit the mortise, but first, I had to deal with scars from the over-anxious Dremel sanding wheel that ate a little too much into the base of the tenon.  The result was that small ridges kept the stem from seating snugly up to the shank.  I remembered a technique I read on, I believe, Dadspipes.com (I’ve read so much I can’t remember for sure!) that was able to help me uniformly smooth out the base of the tenon, which is almost impossible using files freehand.  I drilled a hole in a piece of wood providing enough space for the tenon to rotate freely and covered the hole with 230 sanding paper and clamped it.  I punctured the paper and then forced the tenon into the hole.  I rotated the stem on the flat board back and forth to evenly sand down the tenon base.  I stopped the rotation periodically and let the stem ‘free-stand’ in order to eye-ball it and to make sure I was not sanding unevenly and unintentionally creating a tilt. The pictures show the process and the successful results of a more snuggly fitting stem!Dal29 Dal30 Dal31 Dal32 Dal33 Dal34Again I was anxious to move to finishing the stem proper and to utilize the micro-mesh pads that were newly acquired in the US!  Up to this point I had been utilizing sanding paper I found here in Bulgaria and I was anxious to see the results of using micro-mesh pads.  I employed Steve’s stem finishing pattern that he utilizes with almost each stem finish: Picture 1 reveals the results of wet-sanding with micro-mesh 1500, 1800, and 2400 then an application of obsidian oil.  Following is dry sanding with 3200, 3600, 4000 again followed by an application of obsidian oil.  I have to confess, I was so excited to see the luster popping out I forgot to document the two sets with a picture!  Finally, picture 2 shows the results from dry-sanding (with obsidian oil) with 6000, 8000, and 12000.  After this, I gave the stem another coat of obsidian oil and put it aside to dry.Dal35 Dal36Now I’m stoked!  While the obsidian oil was drying I was re-reading the blogs on bending stems (https://rebornpipes.com/2012/07/15/bending-vulcanite-stems/) and turning on the oven to warm it up.  My experience was limited – I bent one stem for a pipe I acquired off eBay from Budapest, Hungary.  I named that pipe, Budapest (I may have developed a bad habit of naming my pipes like pets…).  I warmed the oven to about 200 to 220 Fahrenheit, (for those living in Europe that is about 93 to 100 C).  I found a ‘bender’ using a small jar measuring about 1.5 inches in diameter and stuck the pipe cleaner in the airway to keep it open during the bend.  I had researched pictures of Oom Pauls and I found another Dr. Plumbs 9456 online (http://www.bidorbuy.co.za/item/222662283/VINTAGE_DR_PLUMB_LONDON_MADE_SMOKING_PIPE_NO_9456.html).  I wanted the bend to reflect the original as closely as possible.  I wanted the bend to be tighter toward the stem expansion at the base – the effect was that the button end of the stem reached out more, or it seemed to me.  It didn’t take long for the vulcanite to become pliable – about 5 minutes or so in the oven on a cookie sheet (thanks again to my wife!).  When I brought it out the first time and bent it over the jar, I was not pleased with the bend – it was too much of an arch for my liking.  So I found a pestle from my wife’s mortar and pestle set that she uses to grind up spices.  Its diameter was smaller.  I put the stem back into the oven and it slowly flattened back out as it heated up.  After about 7 minutes I took it out and bent it around the pestle – that got it.  I held the bend (careful, it’s hot!) and ran the stem under tap water to galvanize the bend.   I wanted the angle to be right – anxious to see the stem with the bowl, I took a few pictures to show what I feel are better results.Dal37 Dal38 Dal39Almost home.  The sterling silver band was awaiting my attention but I wasn’t in a mood to be rushed!  I re-read again Steve’s blogs on banding (https://rebornpipes.com/2012/10/31/banding-a-cracked-shank-pressure-fitting-a-metal-band-on-a-pipe-shank/). Armed with renewed knowledge and the resounding warning not to work too quickly (or else you will tear the band!) I started the work on the band.  I had one large obstacle – I did not have a heat gun to apply heat to the band to enable its expansion to fit successfully over the shank (and not tear!).  I did not have a heat gun, but my wife owns one of the wonders of German technology, a Braun hairdryer.  It gets pretty hot and I gave it a try.  The first picture shows the band placement (about 50% shy) before I started the hairdryer heating process.  I heated up the band on the shank as shown in picture 2 and after about 1 minute or so I took the shank and pressed it down against the cloth on a flat cutting board and applied gentle vertical pressure against the band to slide it further onto the stem.  Patience – I kept hearing “Don’t tear it!”  After I felt a wee bit of movement from the band I stopped the downward pressure and started the reheating process again and then again, a wee bit of band movement as I pressed it vertically against the cloth.  I repeated this process about 7 or so times and was able to move the band to where I wanted it – without tearing it! (picture 3).  I finished up by applying some Weiman Silver Cream to shine the band up nicely.Dal40 Dal41 Dal42 Dal43I’m very pleased with the results of restoring this Oom Paul and putting him back into service.  I’ve already identified areas that I want to improve next time around.  I didn’t describe how I had to re-top the bowl after I put the stem in and discovered that the rim was not perpendicular to the shank.  Result?  The stem was tilted out and not aligned.  I re-topped the rim to straighten it.  I also detected areas on the stem I had missed during the sanding process.  Yet, overall I’m very pleased and appreciate the rich color and grain of this piece of briar.  I think the band sets if off in a classic way.  Since this Oom Paul will remain in my collection, I’ve named it – a bad habit probably, but I enjoy the life rekindled in restored pipes and names seem appropriate.  Steve told me about the history of Oom Pauls in his recent visit to Bulgaria.  This is when I learned that Oom Paul was Afrikaans Dutch meaning ‘Uncle Paul’.  So, in Bulgarian, meet ‘Chicho Pavel’!  Thanks for reading!Dal44 Dal45 Dal46 Dal47 Dal48 Dal49 Dal50 Dal51 Dal52 Dal53

 

I Believe I Found an Undercover Lorenzo of Some Sort


Guest Blog by Robert M. Boughton
Member, International Society of Codgers
Member, North American Society of Pipe Collectors
http://www.naspc.org
http://www.roadrunnerpipes.net/ (Opening soon)
http://about.me/boughtonrobert
Photos © the Author

INTRODUCTION
In late October of 2014, I wrote a blog here about a Lorenzo second with the name Spitfire Mille (Italian for thousand, just as Starbuck’s large drinks are designated by Venti, meaning 20 – for the number of ounces, including the ice in my With Room Raspberry Iced Americano right now).  Lorenzo, an Italian brand that has been around since 1946, makes an assortment of traditional shapes and styles but is, among my local pipe friends at least, best known for its lines of, well, enormous proportions.  Take this Spitfire, not all versions of which are so large.Lor1 Lor2 Lor3 Lor4 Lor5You can’t tell by these pictures, but although the length was near the limit of the norm at about 6”, the chamber diameter was something like 1” x 2” when I checked before adding the Spitfire to my old business website.  That’s about 6/8 (¾”) x 1” larger than usual.  Then I measured less common specifications, including the diameter of the entire rim across, bowl height and the top half of the shank leading into the bit.  Here is where the numbers became astounding: from one side of the rim to the other was a little under 2”; the height of the bowl was close to 3”, and the shank was 1” across.

If those numbers don’t sound impressive, consider three of my largest pipes, the Peterson 150th Anniversary smooth bent billiard, the Digby Six-Panel and the Soborg Danish Panel.Lor6 Lor7The Pete’s length is 7”; chamber diameter is ⅞” x 1¾”; the full rim is 1⅜”; the bowl height is 2¼”, and the shank is 1½”.  The Digby’s length is 5¾”; chamber 1” x 1¾”; rim 1½”; bowl height 2½” and square shank 1” at the halfway point.  The Soborg’s length is 7”; the chamber is ¾” x 1½”; total rim is 1¼”; bowl height is 2”, and the shank is 1”.

And so, it seems, not counting the length, the Spitfire is the overall “winner,” if size really counts.  All of this is to introduce the no-name Italian Dublin XM (by way of indicating extra monster, for lack of a better description).  This pipe without a name, perhaps the more so for that most unfortunate social status, has all the earmarks of a Lorenzo reject.  It looks like a Lorenzo; comports itself like the portlier brothers, sisters, uncles, aunts and so on and on of its fertile familia, and as it was stamped with the single word “Italy” to boot, so it must be a Lorenzo by birth if not legitimacy.

RESTORATIONLor8 Lor9 Lor10 Lor11Once again the troubles the marvelous pipe faced before it could be presented to a new owner who would cherish it were greater than met the casual eye.  The rim was just a tad crusty and therefore offered itself as the place to begin.  I chose super fine 0000 steel wool to commence the task.  Most times now I have at last embraced more popular techniques such as the wet micro mesh method, but on this occasion I did it with steel wool before I performed a little sanding with 320-grit paper with the goal of ridding the fair and rounded rim of scratches attendant to burning.  There are still other means to this end.  Yet with gentle ministration, I have found the finest steel wool an excellent first step in the process in some situations.  This was one of them.Lor12At that juncture of the growing adventure, I considered the dull state of the bit and the small but numerous scratches and dings through the original stain to the excellent Mediterranean briar beneath.  Perceiving an unusual thickness to the lovely red coating, I arrived at the clear and positive efficacy of an OxiClean bath for the bit and a concurrent but somewhat longer soak of the stummel in Everclear.Lor13 Lor14I slipped the bit and stummel into their respective Tupperware containers and the sequel to the prequel of the not only continuing but never-ending adventures of the Starship Enterprise (“Into Darkness”) in the desktop PC’s DVD player to watch – once again for me – with my new roommate.  He had somehow managed never before to see the movie, and we had some time to relax and smoke our pipes.  The roommate, Darren, became convinced by someone that he could give up the doubly negative costs of cigarettes with the far lesser expenses and greater merits of a good tobacco pipe.  Of course, he will gladly pay me tomorrow, figuratively speaking, for the pipe he savors today.

Furthermore, no less, his eyes became misty and enamored at the sight of the Albertson Belgian black rustic small bent billiard that is scheduled to be the culmination of my seven part series on ladies pipes and, despite his professions to the opposite, I knew he had to have it – oh, how I know that dewy look!  Picture this: a guy who looks and dresses and has tats like a gang banger, getting misty for a tiny little pipe that, although not specifically made for ladies, certainly fits the bill!  The fantastic sci-fi epic aside, I could only imagine what Darren must have thought of the no-doubt perplexing acts I surely appeared to be perpetrating against the once whole but weathered Dublin XM.

Here is the bit following its bath and then after sanding with 220-grit paper and wet micro meshing all the way from 1500-12000.Lor15 Lor16The stummel had the thickest stain I have ever encountered other than with some Chinese pipes on which I’ve labored.  It took longer than the 2 hr. 12 min. movie, with Darren or me (he’s decided he wants to learn about this esoteric occupation) flipping the big piece of briar over in the alcohol now and then to keep it soaking evenly, for the Everclear to eat through the barrier enough to sand the stummel lightly, also with 220.  I only found one small spot where a hole was filled.  In an email later, Steve, who had expressed some doubt that the pipe was a Lorenzo reject but suggested it might be a second, wrote that Lorenzo seconds are known for fills.  To me, given the similarity of style, stain and huge proportions of the ostensible Italian no-name (the single word ITALY was stamped almost flush with the steel band, on the underside), my theory of a Lorenzo connection was cinched in my mind at least. Lor17 Lor18 Lor19 Lor20By a stroke of good luck, as I always see it, the band came off at the end of the sanding, and I was able to make the area under it match the rest.  I got on with the next step, micro meshing from 1500-12000.Lor21 Lor22 Lor23This is where the real challenge came.  Forced to strip the stummel of its original stain to get at the scratches without creating more damage using sandpaper, I wanted to re-stain the wood as close as possible to the bright reddish tone it had, knowing that was impossible with the stains I had on hand.  I opted to mix Lincoln Marine Cordovan about three-to-one with Fiebing’s Brown alcohol-based boot dyes.  When flamed with a lighter or matches, the stain is fixed to the stummel without running as the light char is micro meshed off and again later with waxes and compounds buffed on.Lor24I also knew this combination, or even using only the burgundy color, would be so dark that none of the grain would show through.  Applying the mix liberally, I used a couple of good strong wooden kitchen matches from a box of 250 I bought at Walmart for about a dollar to flame the pipe, but the result was not the usual impressive blue flash I expected.  Still, it did the trick.  I think the alcohol in my liquid stains is evaporating with age.  I told Victor Rimkus, a successful pipe crafter/engineer here, how I needed to buy a new supply as well as other colors.  He said I could mix what was left with alcohol, which sadly only struck me as obvious when I heard the idea, or, as he does, buy the powder and mix it as needed with alcohol.  I had never heard of this powder stain before but found it online at a very affordable price.  There are even some great discounts for buying the complete kit with every color made – and the variety of colors and shades is staggering.  You know I can’t pass up a good discount.Lor25The light coat of residual char came off with 2400 and 3200 micro mesh.  Super fine 0000 steel wool gradually lessened the dark combination of stains until I concluded the color mix was still a bit off.  I deliberately took the stain down a notch lighter to add another quick layer of the brown, and when it cooled after flaming again I wiped off the char as before.  The result was much better.Lor26 Lor27 Lor28Lor29I used a couple of dabs of Super Glue spread thin around the inside of the band to reattach it.  In one of the emails I exchanged with Steve regarding the chance of this pipe being a Lorenzo relative, he pointed out that in the photo of the band I attached with a plea for help in identifying the hallmarks, the band had been placed unevenly.  Trying first to determine the meaning of the marks on my own, I had found a site that was clearly not the best.  The closest I came was a reference to a pair of brothers named Edwin and John Power, known naturally as Power Brothers, who ran a tobacconist shop and seem to have made pipes in 1900.  They marked their bands with an EP in an oval which, given the site’s other shortcomings, I considered might be – but given the year, likely was not – a misnomer for the diamond on this band.  Steve identified it as an Electro-Plate band that he thought could be an after-addition.  Studying the band and the one item of nomenclature on the bottom side of the shank – the block lettered word ITALY near the opening but above the band – I was doubtful it was indeed an afterthought.

But by that time, the restoration had progressed to the point where I had already corrected the problem.

The time to retort the odd Dublin had come, but looking at the wider than wide mouthpiece of the bit, I knew that of the three rubber tubes I have, none would work.  And so, as I have done in past situations like this, I rummaged around my spare bits until I found one from a Ropp natural cherry wood that matched the tenon size – at least halfway in.  As always, I was happy I retorted the pipe thoroughly, as this one had more than usual use on it.  I had to run six alcohol soaked regular cleaners through the shank before the last came out clean.Lor30 Lor31After buffing the bit with red and white Tripoli, White Diamond and carnauba, and the nice smooth reddish-brown wood with the same progression (I laid on a heavy coat of the red Tripoli to approximate the original color somewhat closer), here is the result.Lor32 Lor33 Lor34 Lor35
CONCLUSION
I have to say, this was nowhere near the most difficult restore I’ve ever done, but the research into Lorenzo, in my attempt to establish whether or not it is one of their rejects or a second of some sort, made the process one of the most exciting of my projects.  In my mind now, there is no doubt this conundrum of a pipe, is in fact a Lorenzo reject.  This conclusion is not based on an overwhelming desire to make the pipe more than it may be.  It is based on the evidence: the undeniable similarity of design between the Spitfire by Lorenzo Mille second; the identical color of each that has the appearance of being created specially by the maker, and the presence of somewhat erratic grain and even the single fill I found after stripping the original stain, given that Steve wrote of Lorenzo seconds tending to be known to present these defects.  Although, with due respect to Steve, I doubt this is a second because of the lack of any such nomenclature, the same standards would apply to outright rejects.  I did my best to make it once more the beautiful pipe it was when first created, but the grain certainly is less than perfect, and there is one place where briar shavings were mixed with some clear bonding element to fix a ding.  But now, neither of these facts detracts from the pipe’s allure and good fit in a large hand, which its new owner certainly has.

The Spitfire awaited a new home for months after I finished the restoration, and in the end was purchased by a New World gentleman, from Raymore, Missouri to be specific, who read my blog of another pipe and found the massive Lorenzo (second) on my site.  The lovely example of Italian flair and craftsmanship in this blog, on the other hand, was reserved prior to its restoration by a visitor to my pipe club’s monthly meeting.  His name is Evan, and here he is at the tobacco shop with his “new” pipe.  See how snug it is in Evan’s big mitt. Lor36When Evan, who resides in the much smaller town of Placitas about a half-hour’s drive from the relative metropolis of Albuquerque (close enough to commute to and from where he works here), talked to me alone in the big back room of the Moose Lodge where our official monthly pipe meeting is held, I asked if he had seen any of my pipes he found interesting.  I assumed he had not located one he wished to buy but also wanted to get an idea of what he looks for in a pipe, other than the Dunhill with its distinctive dot on the bit he enjoyed for the meeting.  I admit to thinking I might have something I put off restoring that I could perhaps expedite.

Evan was courteous enough to tell me the truth: none of the pipes I had displayed was big enough for his general taste.  That remark turned out to be the exact sort of intelligence I hoped to receive from my question, for I knew I had just what he was looking for, at my humble home and small business, waiting to be cleaned up.  I inquired if he had heard of Lorenzo pipes and added that I had restored and sold one but had another pipe like it that I believed was a reject by that company, although there was nothing wrong with its looks or quality.  Evan had not heard of Lorenzo but was intrigued by my description of the large pipe.

After getting a look at the photos I emailed to him showing the restored Spitfire and the no-name as it was before cleaning up, the good man replied with considerable enthusiasm.  In fact, considering the low price I offered him, he asked me to name the time and place he could pick it up!  I had the pleasure of presenting Evan with the finished Lorenzo or second or whatever it is Monday morning at the tobacconist shortly after the comfortable little shop opened at 10.  With any sale, online or in person, and in particular when the buyer has requested a pipe that was not yet restored, I always wonder if it – or, rather, I – will match the new owner’s expectations. I observed at once that Evan had pondered his reverse version of the same scenario from his reaction of unconcealed surprise.  In short, the pipe was just the kind he loves most – big enough to fit in his large hand, solid, possessed of an unusual shape and beautiful to behold.  I add the last part not to pat myself on the shoulder but due to Evan’s appraisal.  To my way of thinking, pipe restoration is very much the same as newspaper editing, with which I have had more experience than working on pipes: the flaws in the pipe or article are unimportant so long as all of the necessary information is there to put in order.  The best word to describe Evan’s reaction to his latest acquisition – which went on for close to a half-hour – is effusive.

SOURCES
https://www.smspipes.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/catalog.listProducts/catId/4/Lorenzo_Pipes.htm
http://vermontfreehand.com/product/powdered-dye/
http://www.pipes.ws/Lorenzo
http://www.silvercollection.it/DICTIONARYTOBACCONISTE.html Power Bros. hallmark

A Mystery Bent Apple Pipe Turned out to be an Oldenkott


Blog by Steve Laug

My brother bid on this pipe because he liked the look of it. I saw the photos and had to agree with him as it is one of my favourite shapes. The shank is absolutely clean with no stamping on it. The briar is uniquely grained and unstained. The rim had a light coat of lava that was rock hard. The finish was very dirty and oil marks were on the sides of the bowl. There were a few small sandpits and fills in the briar. The bowl had a light cake building up on the inside. The stem was oxidized and had some small tooth marks on bother the top and bottom sides near the button. The stem had a white dot in a red circle inlaid on the top of the saddle stem. When I removed the stem it turned out to be drilled out for a nine millimeter filter and had Vauen Dr. Perl filter in place. That gave me a clue that it was made in Europe. But even with that I did not clue into the maker of the pipe. It took a random scrolling through eBay and seeing and Oldenkott with the same stem logo that I remembered where I had seen that marking on a pipe. The mystery was solved. The pipe was an Oldenkott whose markings had obviously been buffed off over the years. The stem is original so I am convinced that the mystery is solved.apple1apple2On the underside of the right side of the pipe there was a burn mark in the vulcanite stem. It looked as if someone had laid the pipe down in an ashtray and a cigarette or ash had burned this spot on the stem. The first close-up photo below shows the burn mark. The second photo show the tooth chatter and marks on the stem near the button (The ones on the other side of the stem are not as deep). The third close-up photo below shows the rim of the pipe and the state of the bowl.apple3apple4

I took the pipe apart and the three parts are shown in the photo below – you can see the Vauen filter and the large mortise and tenon made to accommodate the 9mm filter. apple5I scrubbed the bowl surface with acetone on a cotton pad to remove the finish from the bowl. It removed the grime and oils from the original natural finish of the bowl and left it clean.

apple6apple7

I scrubbed the rim with the acetone and got some of the tars off but decided to lightly top it to clean it further.apple8

The cake was light so I reamed it with the Savinelli Pipe Knife and took it back to bare briar.

apple9

I sanded the stem and particularly the burn mark with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the damaged vulcanite. I picked it clean and wiped it down with alcohol. I filled in the burned area with black super glue and set it aside to dry.apple10

I set the stem aside to cure overnight and gave the clean bowl a light rub down of olive oil. I wanted to have a better look at the grain of the briar and work out a plan for what I would do with the finish.apple11apple12

In the morning I used the drill bit from the KleenReem pipe reamer and cleared out the tars and oils in the airway of the bowl. I set up the retort and boiled alcohol through the pipe to remove the oils on the inside of the stem, mortise and airway into the bowl.apple13

apple14

When I finished with running two test tubes of alcohol through the pipe I cleaned it out with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol. The retort had removed the majority of the grime from inside the pipe.apple15

I had a box of Vauen 9mm filters from a recent trip to Hungary so I got the box out and compared the filter to what was in the pipe when I started. I had the match so I was good to go with a new filter.apple16

I put the pipe on the staining stand I use and gave it several coats of Danish Oil and Cherry stain to highlight the grain and give it some definition.apple17apple18

While the stain dried I wet sanded the stem with 1500-2400 grit micromesh sanding pads to remove the oxidation and begin to shine the vulcanite. I gave it a coat of Obsidian Oil and dry sanded with 3200-4000 grit pads. Another coat of oil was rubbed into the vulcanite and finally I sanded it with 6000-12000 grit pads. I gave a final coat of oil and let it dry.

apple19apple20apple21

I buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the wheel and then gave it multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed it with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and finished by hand buffing it with a microfibre cloth. I am happy with the finished pipe and think I will try to make or hunt down an adapter to put in the tenon to make the filter unnecessary. That way it can be used either way – filtered or unfiltered. Thanks for looking. apple22apple23apple24apple25apple26apple27apple28

Dunhill White Dot Repair


Lance Leslie

I received an email from Lance this afternoon with a blog submission. In his email he states that he thought that this would make a good blog for the site. He has been restoring pipes for a few years and has learned some valuable tips on rebornpipes. He sent along a restoration he completed that had a repair tip he had not seen addressed on the blog. While I have inserted dots on Dr. Plumb pipes and an odd variety of others I have not dedicated a blog to this repair so I agreed that it would be good to have his process spelled out here.  Welcome to rebornpipes as a contributor Lance. It is good to have you here. Hopefully this will be the first of many contributions that you bring to the site. — Steve

I have been restoring pipe for a few years now and have learned some valuable tips from rebornpipes. I have a restoration to share and unless I have missed it, I have not seen this issue addressed on this blog. The issue being, adding the infamous white dot to new replacement stem. Or…in my case, a blank replacement stem.

I recently won this Dunhill on eBay and noticed that the White Dot was missing. After asking all the right questions to be sure I WAS bidding on a Dunhill, I made my offer and won. The owner did not know much about pipes so he did not know if it was a replacement stem. I have seen the white dot covered by soot only to be revealed during the cleaning, but this was not the case. This was listed as a 1982 Dunhill Bruyere but it turned out to be a 1977. Here is the pipe as it looked when it arrived.Dun1The rim was covered with lava and the bowl was thick with cake. There were some dings in the bowl that would need to be addressed. The stem had some dents and would need a White Dot added. What is a Dunhill without the White Dot? The stem was also heavily oxidized.Dun2 Dun3 Dun4I placed the stem in an Oxyclean bath and let the stummel soak in an alcohol bath to loosen the lava. After I removed the lava I saw significant damage to the rim of the piped and the rim was scorched in two places. This could only be fixed by topping the bowl. Rats!Dun5 Dun6I removed the stem for the Oxyclean bath and polished it with Meguiar’s scratch X 2.0. I didn’t want to go too far with the stem because I would be adding the dot later.Dun7 Dun8I then took the bowl and my sanding bit and topped the bowl. As you can see, it is now clean and sharp. The scorching was also gone. Thank goodness it was not too deep.Dun9 Dun10Next I wanted to address the dents in the sides of the bowl. Thanks to rebornpipes I knew a simple way to do this. And yes, my wife is missing a dish towel. With said dish towel wet, I heated a kitchen knife with a lighter. I pressed the knife against the dish towel and steamed the dent right out. Works every time.Dun11 Dun12 Dun13Now I needed to stain the top of the bowl. I mixed up some leather dye to match color of the bowl and gave the top several coats until it matched.Dun14Now the fun part!! It was time to add the White Dot to the stem. I had recently acquired a quad copter (Syma X5SW) and remembered the propeller protectors that came with the copter.
These are added for beginners to help protect the blades while you learn to fly. I no longer needed these so I checked the size and knew it would be a perfect match. BTW, you can order these blade protectors off of Amazon. Just type in replacement parts for Syma X5SW. They are cheap! See photos below…Dun15 Dun16 Dun17The ends of the blade protectors would do nicely. They are even conical shaped!!! I clipped off one end and sat it to the side. I then took some old stems and did a practice run before trying it on the Dunhill. It worked like a charm. I did not take pictures of my practice run, sorry.Dun18 Dun19I then went to my drill bits and chose the correct size. I lined up another Dunhill beside this one to get the proper distance for the White Dot on the stem. After I found the distance and center, I carefully drilled about 3 mm down. (Start your drill out slow if you use a hand-held drill. I would suggest a drill press if you have one.)Dun20 Dun21 Dun22I added some black super glue to the hole and placed the little white rod into the hole. Then using a rubber hammer, I hammered it into the hole.Dun23Then I clipped the plug as close as I could using scissors, and sanded down the rest with my sanding bit.Dun24 Dun25 Dun26The rest of the plug was sanded down with 220 sandpaper.Dun27Then it was a trip through the micro-mesh sanding/polishing pads. The pipe was married to its stem once again and polished with carnauba wax. Here is the finished pipe.Dun28 Dun29 Dun30 Dun31 Dun32