Monthly Archives: December 2015

GBD Meerschaum Pipe


By Al Jones

I am not a collector of meerschaums and indeed this is only the second meerschaum that I’ve owned. However I couldn’t resist when a pipe forum friend notified me about this carved bent Billiard shape, complete with a brass rondell on eBay. While not a restoration, I thought readers of the blog might find this GBD interesting.

According to Pipepedia, the three principals of GBD: Ganneval, Bondier and Donninger established the firm to the making of meerschaum pipes. Most fans of the brand know GBD for their briar pipes or perhaps meerschaum lined pipes. This is the first carved GBD meerschaum pipe that I have encountered. Typically, the GBD meerschaum pipes I have seen on Ebay or elsewhere are colored and don’t have the brass rondell. Those pipes, which are not usually carved, are thought to be made from African or Tanganyika meerschaum. This type of meerschaum is considered to be inferior to Turkish meer.

A Google search yielded only one similar, carved GBD meerschaum which was sold by SmokingPipes. They advertised the pipe as a “Turkish” estate. The carving, color and stem are very close in appearance to the pipe that I purchased.

GBD_Carved_Meerschaum_Brass_Rondell

The pipe arrived in excellent condition and very clean inside. I had read several of Steve Laugs articles on cleaning meerschaum pipes but nothing was required to this one.

The carvings are very similar to those found on SMS meerschaum pipes but I’m not sure if that is a SMS trademark or just a typical meerschaum carving technique.

The pipe as delivered, which included a nice, fitted, leather case. I’ve smoked it once and found the draw, stem and button to quite comfortable. I have wondered if the pipe would be improved with the addition of a proper vulcanite stem, like a George Dibos could create (and move the GBD brass rondell).

GBD_Meerschaum_Bent_Billiard_Gallery

GBD_Meerschaum_Bent_Billiard (4)

GBD_Meerschaum_Bent_Billiard (3)

GBD_Meerschaum_Bent_Billiard (5)

GBD_Meerschaum_Bent_Billiard (2)

GBD_Meerschaum_Bent_Billiard (6)

GBD_Meerschaum_Bent_Billiard (7)

Restemming & Restoring -Antique Egg & Claw Meerschaum


Blog by Steve Laug

My brother Jeff picked up a beautiful old Meerschaum pipe when he was in Austin, Texas. There was something about the old pipe that caught his eye and he wanted it. The patina of age was forming around the claws and the egg. The feathers on the bottom of the foot that held the claws was also colouring nicely. The browns of a well smoked meerschaum were changing the shadows around the bowl of the pipe. The shank also showed some signs of the colourng. It was almost a meerschaum collar out of which the feather foot extended. The cross hatched look of skin extended beyond the collar on the sides of the shank and the small claw held the bowl at the back. The bowl blackened but the cake was scraped clean other than a slight buildup around the top portion of the bowl. The rim was blackened with tars and there was some road rash on the top right side of the bowl toward the front. The tip of one of the feathers holding the claw on the front of the bowl also had a small chip but it had coloured like the rest of the feathers so it was blended in. The pipe itself was an old timer that was clear.Claw1 The anomaly for me is that it should have had an amber stem. There is no way a pipe this age would have had a Lucite stem. The yellow Lucite stem looked that it had been adapted from a free hand pipe. The end had been drilled out to hold a replacement push tenon. It was set deep in the stem. The stem also had been counter sunk to cover the replacement threaded mortise in the shank. Instead of trimming it off to be flush with the end of the shank it stuck out about 1/8 of an inch or more. The stem maker had drilled the end of the stem so that with the tenon threaded in and the stem pushed into the mortise it would hide the mortise extension. The airway in the stem was pretty clogged and had blackened with tars. The stem had served the previous owner well. To my eye it just did not go with the either the age or the look of the pipe. It looked like two centuries had collided and joined to very different generations together with this stem and bowl.Claw2 The shank itself was clean though the tars had stained the tenon. The airway in the shank was open and clean. It was as if someone had cleaned out the inside of the shank and bowl before putting the pipe up for sale at the antique shop. There were signs also that the bowl itself had been wiped down on the outside as the colouration bore signs of scratching from scrubbing the exterior with something like ScotchBrite pads. There were a lot of scratches and scrapes around the rim edges. Fortunately whoever had cleaned it had not removed too much of the patina. This pipe deserved some tender loving care to bring it back to life and restore the appearance to more of its stately form. The stem would definitely have to go and in its place an amberoid or amber coloured Lucite stem would have to be shaped to take its place.

I called Tim West at JH Lowe to talk with him about ordering a stem and what would look best with this old timer. Tim suggested a tortoise shell amber Lucite stem. He said the chocolate swirls in the material would look good with the patina of the old meer and as the bowl darkened more would continue to look good. I gave him the dimensions that I was hunting for and ordered a tapered stem. As usual Tim was quick in getting the materials I ordered shipped to me. It did not take long for it to arrive. I knew that it would be longer than I wanted and would need to be cut down and shaped but the colour would be perfect.

I got home from work on Monday to find Tim’s package had arrived. I opened it and took a picture of the new stem blank, the stem that I was retiring and the old bowl. You can see from the photo below that it is about an inch longer than the previous stem. The taper shape should work well with the pipe. Lots of drilling and shaping will need to be done before it fits the shank well.Claw3 I am pretty limited in terms of a shop – no saws or power tools to make things simpler so I am left to resort to doing things by hand. I measured the length of the stem that I wanted and use a small hacksaw to cut off the excess stem material. Once it was removed I faced the newly cut end on my topping board to smooth it out and square it off. This is the hard way to do things I know but with careful attention to the verticality of the stem it is possible to get a smooth surface that is square to the shank end.Claw4

Claw5 The push tenon and mortise was smaller than any that I had in my stash so I removed the push tenon from the old stem. It was not difficult to do as it was threaded and could be unscrewed. The mortise was threaded into the shank but extended beyond the end of the shank. I would need to sand that smooth and bevel it inward to give a good fit to the new stem. I took the next two photos below to show the two stems side by side and give an idea of the length.Claw6

Claw7 With the length cut and the surface faced it was now time to start the drilling. I needed to drill the airway in the new stem to accommodate the diameter of the push tenon. Once it was drilled I would be able to thread it with a tap. The airway would also need to be drilled a second time to receive the collar on the tenon and give a flush fit with the stem end. I set up my cordless drill with a small drill bit to begin with and then worked up to the one that was the correct size for the tenon. I used a larger bit to countersink the end of the stem to take the collar on the tenon.Claw8 The photo below shows the roughed in drilling of the stem. I would still need to clean up the edges of the countersink and also the roughness of the area that I would be using the tap on. I used needle files to bring the countersink into round, smooth out the edges and the airway.Claw9 When I had finished with the airway I screwed the tenon into place and used a Dremel and sanding drum to begin smoothing out the mortise insert.Claw10 I sanded the end of the mortise insert by hand to bring it to the same height as the rest of the shank end. I cleaned up the area around the tenon so that when I put the two pieces together I would have a pretty flush fit.Claw11 I took the next photo to show the initial fit of the tenon in the stem. More sanding would need to be done to make the inner edges clean on the countersink.Claw12 I pushed the stem into the mortise and took the photos below to have a look at the new stem and its fit on the pipe. There was still a gap in between the stem and the shank – it showed light so more work would need to be done to bring it flush against the shank. The overall look of the new stem worked for me. I like the tortoise shell look of the stem with the patina of the meer.Claw13

Claw14

Claw15

Claw16 I carefully scraped the bowl with a pen knife to remove the small cake that was present in the bowl. It was more of a ridge than a full cake so I wanted to smooth out the sides of the bowl.Claw17 I used the knife to begin the bevel on the mortise insert at this time as well. I would need to give it more of a slope to accommodate the tenon but it was getting there.Claw18 I inserted a pipe cleaner in the stem and set up my heat gun. (I set it up on top of the dryer in our laundry room so forgive the socks and dishtowels in the background. I held the stem about 5 inches above the heat so that Lucite would not bubble (it did even at this height). When it was flexible I bent it to the same angle as the previous stem using an old rolling pin that I saved for this purpose. It took several time of heating it to get the angles correct so that the bend of the stem would match the curves of the bowl.Claw19

Claw20 I put the newly bent stem on the pipe and took some photos so I could see if I got the angles correct. I find that the distance of a photo gives me clearer perspective than just holding it in hand.Claw21

Claw22 With the fit of the stem and the bend roughed in it was time to work on the stem itself. The sharp edges of the taper and the thick button would need to be sanded and shaped. I would also need to get rid of the bubbles that happened when I heated and bent the stem. I started with emery cloth to quickly shape the button and take down the sharp edges. I also thinned the stem with the emery cloth and worked on the sides of the taper. I sanded it with 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out and further shape it and then followed up with a medium and fine grit sanding sponge.Claw23

Claw24

Claw25 I cleaned up the mess left behind by the stem sanding and worked on the scratches in the meer bowl and the heavy build up on the rim. I used 1500-2400 grit micromesh to sand the rim and the area of road rash on the top of the bowl at the right side. I also sanded the scratches along the claws to clean up the mess that had been left behind. I was careful to no sand too much so as to keep the patina intact.Claw26

Claw27

Claw28

Claw29 I scrubbed the bowl and rim with a cotton pad and saliva to remove some of the grime and dirt left behind on the bowl.Claw30 I used a sharp Buck Knife to clean up the bevel of the mortise insert so that the stem would fit snugly against the shank.Claw31 I sanded and polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads- wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and then dry sanding with 3200-4000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down with a little Obsidian Oil to give the final 6000-12000 grit micromesh pads traction in the final polishing.Claw32

Claw33

Claw34 I also polished the meerschaum bowl with the micromesh pads to clean up and minimize the scratches. Here is a photo of the bowl with the 3200-4000 grit pads.Claw35

Claw36 I buffed the stem with Blue Diamond polish on the wheel and then gave it a light coat of carnauba wax. I hand waxed the bowl with carnauba and buffed it with a microfibre cloth to raise the shine. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. I definitely like the look with the new tortoise shell stem. It just seems to fit the age of the bowl better than the free hand stem that came with it. Thanks for looking.Claw37

Claw38

Claw39

Claw40

Claw41

Claw42

Claw43

Claw44

Claw45

Cleaning Up a Pair of Brigham Bulldogs


I am a sucker for Brigham pipes and for bulldogs. Charles did a great job on these two. It is cool to see him use and modify most of the methods that I have used over the years. Thought I would share his work.

Charles Lemon's avatar

I bought these two bulldog pipes separately, but as the restorations proceeded almost identically, I thought I’d write them up together. Both pipes are from the late 1970’s or early 1980’s – the unique rusticated stummels with wave-shaped smooth features are illustrated in this Brigham catalog from 1978. I’m working here on a 316 Straight Bulldog and a 426 Bent Bulldog.

brigham-4

The bent pipe is stamped “Brigham” over “Made in Canada” along with “426”, denoting a Shape # 26 on a 400-series pipe. The straight bulldog is likewise stamped “Brigham” and “316” (shape # 16, 300-series). Curiously, this pipe is missing its Canada stamp, though the aluminum tenon clearly identifies it as having been made in Toronto.

Both pipes came to me in good to very good condition with no big dents or gouges in the briar and no fills in need of repair. In fact, I couldn’t find any…

View original post 787 more words

An Admitted Relative Beginner’s Utterly Subjective Review of Pipes


Guest Blog by Robert M. Boughton
Member, International Society of Codgers
Member, North American Society of Pipe Collectors
http://www.naspc.org
http://www.roadrunnerpipes.com
http://about.me/boughtonrobert
Photos © the Author

CRITIC: n. A person who boasts himself hard to please because nobody tries to please him. ― From “The Devil’s Dictionary” (compiled 1881-1906), by Ambrose Bierce (1842-1913), U.S. printer’s devil, Union soldier [private-first lieutenant], Civil War hero, Federal Treasury agent and other low-pay money transport jobs, newspaper-magazine columnist, short story writer, fabulist, satirist, heavy drinker, brawler, daredevil

OPENING REMARKS
In a word, Ambrose Bierce was a gun-toting card, in the sense of a character, one-of-a-kind, clever or audacious; or, as one might say nowadays, a sociopath. I suspect Bierce would have approved of the latter term, and he is one cultural/historical figure I would like to meet if I could somehow arrange an interview – although, given his mercurial proclivities, I doubt I would want the rendezvous to occur in the region of the Hereafter where he might very well find himself. Besides, Bierce almost certainly would consider me too daring (“one of the most conspicuous qualities of a man in security,” meaning safety) for his tastes, wherever he is now.

Neither Bierce’s definition of critic, nor the long-standing common misconception that to criticize necessarily implies a negative bent, applies to this humble attempt to categorize my own personal favorites from among some of the pipe brands I have tried and collected. Call this a critique, then, to clarify my well-intended endeavor to review, based on my experiences, limited lists of brands in general and individual pipes.

I will be the first to admit the present list is somewhat meager, in particular considering my impossible dream of someday acquiring every pipe suggested to me by a wildly out of control case of Pipe Acquisition Disorder. In fact, I am already certain I will, maybe sooner than later, look back on this patently subjective exercise with the shiver of self-censure usually reserved for old drafts of literary attempts.

Then again, I’ve never been one to retreat from a challenge, even when I’m the one to throw down the gauntlet. Therefore, do not be surprised to find your own choices way out of order, so to speak, if not missing altogether. There are countless brands and styles I want to try, many of which are difficult to find outside of the high three-digit or even into the four and five figure price range. To those in that rarefied category of collecting, I can only say, more power to you, and may you enjoy your prizes for many years to come. I will provide more on a few of these hopeful future acquisitions later.

Which brings me to my next point: the origins of some of the pipes I have appreciated most, and indeed have come to cherish more as time passes, have proved to be untraceable, despite my concerted and ongoing efforts. A few – dare I say it? – can only be categorized as no-names. In other words (as I often find myself counseling clear newcomers to the thrilling world of pipe enjoyment, online at my own restored pipe sales business or even at my local tobacconist when opportunity knocks), the price tag is irrelevant.

STANDARDS OF REVIEW
My simple standards of review, by necessity, will rely on the following qualities.

• Is the pipe well-engineered? This refers not only to the alignment of the bit’s smoke channel, through the shank’s mortise and draught hole and ending flush with the bottom of the chamber; it includes construction elements such as materials used, bowl thickness, design and various factors effecting the ability to enjoy a good, thorough smoke without overheating, and the attendant tobacco performance issues of that problem.
• Does the pipe reflect my own sense of identity? Only a few times since I first smoked a pipe in 1989, when I was a non-traditional undergrad at New Mexico State University, have I been told by a fellow local club member that a particular pipe “looks good on me.” Now, there’s an interesting misnomer! I try not to end up wearing a pipe, though I have dropped more than a few with red-hot ashes in my lap and even scorched a shirt or two when a loose bit ran amok. One of these appreciated comments, as I recall, concerned a BBB Special Make 1982 Christmas Pipe, and another referred to a Peterson’s Sherlock Holmes Baskerville. Based on those two, I have to assume that a sturdier bent briar pipe looks good on me. But the fact is that most of the pipes I go back to over and over are straight, but I have to say the above complimented members of my growing collection are among my favorites, which vary in shape and from briar to meerschaum and other materials.
• Is the pipe comfortable in my mouth and hand?

I think that about covers that, although in no vital order.

FAVORITES BY BRAND – IN A SORT OF ORDER
Again, I feel a need to qualify this list as being based on the sheer numbers and relatively consistent qualities of the products made by these crafters. There are, to be sure, exceptions. Each brand is followed by its country or countries of origin and/or various manufacturing, and the year or approximation of establishment.

1. SAVINELLI (IT, 1876): Call it luck or what you may, but as Will Rogers suggested, I have never met a pipe created by this legendary maker that I didn’t like. That is to say, every Savinelli I ever smoked performed with excellence in engineering and taste.

2. PETERSON (IE, 1865): First Kapp Brothers, then Kapp & Peterson and finally its present incarnation, Peterson pipes by any name are almost tied with the second largest part of my collection, the other being meerschaums that I can’t include as a brand but would if there were any way I could rationalize doing so. I am quite fortunate to have chosen my Petersons well over the years from estate pipes restored by my good friend and mentor, Chuck Richards, as well as some used collector’s editions I bought from other restorer friends. Of course, there are also those I bought on eBay and cleaned up myself, and some choice new models pre-checked for perfect engineering by Chuck. The results have almost always been top-notch, despite the fact that each year when the time rolls around to examine all 120 or so pipes supplied to our tobacconist by its Peterson supplier for the annual Christmas sale, Chuck returns a surprising number. Some of these, he says, are defects in drilling; others are from the wear and tear of salesmen’s car trunks. Either way, the lesson I’ve learned is to check out pipes carefully whenever possible before paying.

3. KAUFMAN BROTHERS & BONDY (US, 1851): Creator of the Kaywoodie line in 1919 and Yello-Bole in 1932, KB&B has been an innovator of premier pipes for almost 165 years.

4. KAYWOODIE (US, 1919): From a 1930s Super Grain Lovat to some beautiful meerschaums, Kaywoodie has never disappointed me.

5. BUTZ-CHOQUIN (FR, 1858): While aware of fluctuations in quality throughout the history of BC, I have found none that isn’t an excellent example of everything a pipe should be, including a huge gourd calabash church with cork lining in the chamber and an exquisite meerschaum bowl insert. I concede that one is high-maintenance as far as cleaning is concerned.

6. BEN WADE (UK, 1800s, DK, c. 1989): What can I say? I just love Ben Wades, again choosing with care. My absolute favorites of these are a Town & Country Bent Dublin with a Barling Cross gold band accidentally placed on it in the factory, and a gorgeous Preben Holm Danish freehand made on the sly for Ben Wade.

7. STANWELL (DK, 1942): Whenever I look at these or find one in my rotation – the bamboo shank cherry wood, the Kyringe No. 1 beech wood Bulldog Commemorative or the Billiard #88 with tortoise shell ferrule, for example – I can’t imagine the collection I’ve cobbled together so far without them.

8. COMOY and CHAPUIS-COMOY (UK, 1825 and 1925, respectively): Say what you will about some of these pipes, I have yet to experience problems, not even with the splendid orange pebbled London made Panel I have often regretted gifting to a friend.

9. DUNHILL (UK, c. 1902-1907): Undoubtedly one of the greatest if at times inconsistent brands

10. GBD (UK, 1850): Named for three gentlemen who designed the original (Ganneval, Bondier and Donninger), GBD was begun by Chapuis-Comoy. This is a very popular brand, and from my dabbling with it I understand.

11. KARL ERIK (DK, 1965-1966): In my opinion, this is one of the most under-rated lines of mostly free-hands. Maybe now that he passed on, they will come to be admired more.

12. ROPP (FR, 1890): I happen to be an unabashed fan of the natural cherry wood line of Ropps (the thicker the bowl, the better – all of which smoke cool and are versatile with tobaccos. I also adore my old Eug. Ropp Signature that was one of my best restorations.

13. FALCON (metal – US, 1936, UK): I doubt I will meet much resistance with this brand, other perhaps than its placement on my list! Since Kenley Bugg invented this metal system pipe in the U.S. in 1936, it has sold tens of millions worldwide, not counting the spin-offs.

14. BEST BRITISH BRIAR (UK, 1847): Anything with three initials – BBB, LHS, KB&B – seem to fly off of my virtual sales shelves, and I can appreciate the reasons.

15. L&H STERN (US, 1911): Founded in NYC, this venerable pipe maker moved to a permanent Brooklyn factory in 1925 until it dissolved in 1960, and is still regarded as one of the best. I have to agree.

16. JOBEY (US, FR, DK, UK): This name may not be a smoker’s household word, but I’ve had good luck with them…and they sell well, too.

17. EHRLICH (US), 1868: Another lesser-known brand, Ehrlich makes great pipes with consistent quality. The company closed in its centennial year, 1968.

18. PARKER (UK, 1926): Dunhill seconds, these pipes may actually be more consistent than their famed creator.

19. RIMKUS PIPES (US, c. 2007): I know Victor Rimkus from my local pipe club in Albuquerque, New Mexico and have purchased four pipes from him (three of them early works and the fourth a commissioned double-chamber). Victor, being a perfectionist who constantly hones his innate talent crafting blocks of briar into works of art enhanced by his long experience as an engineer, discredits his earlier efforts at pipe making, but I can attest that even they are among the finest pipes I have ever smoked. He fashions everything, the wood and bits, by hand, employing tasteful additions including turquoise, bamboo and varied ferrule materials. The grain of his natural pipes is exquisite, and his finish work makes the final products stunning. Shapes include traditional, unique and variations on the two. One of Victor’s engineering standards allows for the ability to insert a cleaner with ease all of the way through the assembled pipe, from the hole in the lip of the bit and always ending up flush with the bottom of the chamber. The only reason I add Rimkus Pipes to the end of my favorites list is that they remain relatively unknown to the pipe world as a whole, although he is well-known at all of the major pipe shows and to discerning collectors of American pipes. But the fact remains they are among the very best. http://rimkuspipes.com/index.html. By the way, Victor’s son, Nathan, following his own path, also makes exquisite pipes. I’m still hoping he will craft a double-bowl pipe for me and presently have first right of refusal when he decides to take me up on the commission offer! http://www.nwrpipes.com/index.html.

20. Don Warren Pipes (US, ?): Another Albuquerque master and friend from our club, Don’s original website notes that his pipes – briar, cherry, morta, hickory, maple, pecan, oak and walnut – are designed in the Danish freehand tradition, but really, many of them transcend that description. Unfortunately, I only own one of Don’s works (which he calls a Fine Figured Maple Gilpin), and look forward to buying many more of his unique and finely-engineered works. Other Don Warren products include bowls for Kirsten metal pipes. For basic information, see his old site at http://dwpipes.com/index.html. He now sells at https://www.etsy.com/shop/DonWarrenPipes, http://stores.ebay.com/dwpipes/_i.html?_dmd=1&_sid=122905250&_sop=10 and http://donwarrenpipes.com/html/pipes_4_sale.html.

Oh, I can hear the uproar, grumbling and outright scoffing starting now. Look at all the missing giants! And what kind of order is this, in the name of all that’s holy! I can only ask by way of defense that the reader give me time. I’ll get there, and hopefully make updates as I progress! Also, after the top four, I found it very difficult to assign a number to most of these brands. Don’t get me wrong. I love and enjoy each and every one of the pipes I own, including my five Dunhills, four of which are especially prized if only for the sentimental value associated with the genuine old codger who gifted them to me. But mine do tend to smoke a bit hot.

SIDEBAR
Larry – as I will refer to my Dunhill benefactor due to his desire to keep professional details of his life separate from personal web information such as this – at age 91 chose, with great sadness but the better part of valor, to give up the pipe instead of the ghost just after his cardiologist threw a conniption fit when he found out my good friend had taken up his pipes again despite a genuine predisposition for heart disease. Larry (see https://rebornpipes.com/2014/09/16/ponderings-on-an-almost-lost-generation-of-pipe-smokers-with-a-restoration-thrown-in-robert-m-boughton/) experienced his first taste of the briar social elixir, as in “the quintessence or soul of a thing” [OED], when he was 18 and FDR was president. That’s a boggling idea for most of us to wrap our minds around, even those who know what FDR stands for.

I called Larry on Friday to see how he is doing, and he was as spry and full of good humor as ever. I told him I was getting constant questions about him and that everyone missed his warm personality and wonderful humor. He quipped, “You miss me for my wisdom!” and offered to drop by that night’s pipe meeting, as an emeritus (my word). Larry’s 92nd birthday was the next Monday, November 30, and I greatly admire his eventful, fascinating life so far. Sadly, we were the only two people there other than Candace, who was on duty, but we had a very pleasant chat with much humor. When Larry promised to return a week later, I knew I could count on him, and again look forward to the event.

I received the four lovely Dunhills, wrapped tightly in a plain brown paper bag, waiting for me at the tobacconist almost a year ago when I arrived for the regular weekly meeting and learned that Larry would no longer be able to attend. I procrastinated a serious attempt to date them until this writing, but never forgot the clear facial indications of shocked awe on those in my pipe club who know pipes far better than I, as they examined them when I passed the quartet around the large group. More telling was the general agreement that I should consider selling them! My eyes actually watered up at the mere notion of such a betrayal, not to mention the unending sense of guilt and loss I would experience. That is the despicable sort of habit I fell into before I began to recover from alcoholism coming up on 28 years ago.

At any rate, taking advantage of my private audience with Larry this Friday past, I asked if he had any idea how old they were. He told me three were from the 1970s, and one from the ’30s.

As was true with this blog, when I write I tend to make mental notes to return to parts that need additions. And so when I inserted the photos below with the models’ basic descriptions, I determined to date them no matter what it took. At last finding a reliable way to accomplish the task on my own, I used the two-digit year code usually found just to the right of the D in ENGLAND, or after the Patent Number. http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/dunhill/cledat-en1.html.

A Dunhill Inner Tube, 1912, Courtesy of Pipephil.eu

A Dunhill Inner Tube, 1912, Courtesy of Pipephil.eu

As it turned out, I tentatively guessed the pipe made in the 1930s but was flabbergasted by my full findings. I just emailed Larry my discovery.

Root Briar #433 – 1916

Root Briar #433 – 1916

Shell Briar #114 – 1917

Shell Briar #114 – 1917

Bruyere #4103 – 1925

Bruyere #4103 – 1925

Shell Briar Canadian #34 – 1934

Shell Briar Canadian #34 – 1934

As I already clarified, I value these Dunhills above almost all of my other pipes, and with more virtuous motivations than their extreme age and potential resale value. I would never consider parting with them because of how they came to me. Still, as they are my only experiences with the Dunhill brand and all seem to smoke on a notably hot side, I have to be practical and as unbiased as possible in my judgment – which perception a little voice in my ear whispers is most liable to change with more exercise of my P.A.D. Still, #9 isn’t shoddy!

INDIVIDUAL FAVORITES
For those who enjoyed my favorite brands list, the subjectivity of this part should come as a real treat. (That’s semi-facetious!) However, on the plus side is that a far greater number of pipes, brands, shapes and materials will be represented, and by the very nature of that variety, the potential for redeeming the very possible negative perception of my judgment will be decided. And so, for better or worse, here they are.

1. Cavicchi 4C Silver Band Freehand (IT)rob6
2. Castello Old Antiquari KKKK (IT)rob7
3. Sasieni Four-Dot Rustic (IT)rob8
4. Savinelli Autograph Grade 4 Rusticated Bottom (Restore) (IT)rob9
5. Savinelli deluxe Milano Panel #515KS (Restore) (IT)rob10
6. CANO A. OZGENER (CAO) Silver Band Lattice Meerschaum (US)rob11
7. Barling Special Make 1982 Christmas Pipe (UK)rob12
8. Butz-Choquin Meer Insert Gourd Calabash Church (FR)rob13
9. BC Regence Extra Curved Billiard (FR)rob14
10. Ben Wade Town & Country Dublin with Gold Barling Cross Band (UK)rob15
11. BW Preben Holm Danish Freehand (DK)rob16
12. Comoy’s Satin Matte (Restore) (UK)rob17
13. GBD Super Q Bent #9456 (UK)Rob18
14. Kaywoodie Vintage Small Meer Billiard (Restore) (US)rob19
15. Rusticated Red/Brown Meerschaumrob20
16. The Doodler (Restore) (US)rob21
17. No-Name Italian German Folk Wine Pipe (Restore) (IT)rob22
18. La Grande Bruyere Vintage Mini (CZ)
My first restore before:rob23
After:rob24
19. No-Name “The Beak” (Restore) (IT)rob25
20. Peterson Sherlock Holmes Baskerville (Restore) (IE)rob26
21. Stanwell Kyringe Beech Wood Bulldog #1 Commemorative (DK)rob27
22. V. Rimkus Double Chamber (US)rob28
23. Sjoborg Danish Panel (Restore) (DK)rob29
24. WDC Wellington Custom Deluxe Pot (Restore) (US)rob30
25. Lepeltier Glazed Ceramic (US)rob31
26. Jobey Rustic Apple (Restore) (US)rob32
27. Johs Semi-Rustic Danish Billiard (DK)rob33
28. Dr. Grabow WWII Era Birch Dublin (US)rob34
29. Kaywoodie Super Grain 1930s Lovat (Restore) (US)rob35
30. Ser Jacopo Maxima Delecta Fatta a Mano (IT)rob36
31. Stefano FX Bean Pot (IT)rob37
32. Royal Goedwagen Ceramic Billiard (Restore) (NE)rob38
33. Don Warren Fine Figured Maple Gilpin (US)rob39
34. Playboy African Meer (Restore) (UK?)rob40
35. Falcon, c. 1930s-1940s (US)rob41

WHEN I’M RICHER
These are a few of the more expensive pipes on my wish-list. The two Russian pipes shown had no price, but the styles and quality usually have four-digit tags.

1. Buddha Bamboo Shank Pipe – Doctor’s Pipes (RU)add1

2. Evgeniy Looshin Pipe (RU)add2

3. Dunhill Christmas Pipe 2015 Kit — $2,150Add3

CLOSING REMARKS
I could go on and on with photos of my favorite individual pipes, but I think I demonstrated that my tastes are at least eclectic if not fully satisfied. With hope, they never will be.

Restoring a White Cloud Imported Briar Pot


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe up for refurbishing is a small pot shaped pipe. It is stamped on the left side of the shank with the words White Cloud over Imported Briar. There are no other stampings on the right side and underside of the shank. I have looked for the brand in WMTP and found the name but that it is an unknown maker from the US. I also on PipePhil’s site and found no additional information. I also did some searching on the web for information and found absolutely no information on the brand. Do any of you know anything about it? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

The pipe was in good shape underneath the thick coat of varnish. The stem was oxidized and dirty. The varnish on the rim was peeling and bubbling. There was damage to the rim in terms of darkening and potential burn. The bowl had some cake but it was bare wood at the bottom third of the bowl. The stamping was very clean and readable. There were some dings and fills on the bowl sides but nothing huge. They would clean up adequately. The metal tenon and stinger were a very interesting looking piece of plumbing. They were dirty and tarred. The inside of the shank and stem also had a lot of grime. The stinger was stuck in the tenon so it would need to be heated to be able to clean the airway in the stem thoroughly.Cloud1

Cloud2

cloud3 I took the close up photo of the rim and bowl to show the damage to the rim surface and the cake that was present.cloud4 The next photo shows the stinger apparatus. It is a unique set up that is different from the collection of other stingers that I have here.cloud5 The stem was slightly underclocked so I heated the tenon with a lighter and corrected the fit of the stem in the shank.Cloud6 I removed the stem and dropped the bowl in an alcohol bath to soak overnight. I wanted to loosen the varnish on the bowl and knew that while the alcohol would not remove it, it would soften it and make it easier to sand off.cloud7 In the morning I removed the bowl from the bath and dried it off. The shiny coat of varnish was unscathed by the alcohol but I knew that it would be easier to remove. You can see the interesting grain on the bowl sides in the photos that follow. You can also see the nicks and fills that would need to be dealt with in the restoration.cloud7

cloud8

cloud9

cloud10

cloud11 I sanded the rim and the bowl with a medium grit sanding sponge to begin the process of removing the varnish. It worked well to break the seal on the varnish coat. Once that is done it comes off quite easily with acetone.cloud12

cloud13

cloud14

cloud15 I needed to lightly top the rim to remove the burn mark and rounding on the front outer edge of the rim. It did not take much to clean up the rounded edge and give the rim a crisp profile.cloud16

cloud17 I wiped the bowl down with acetone on a cotton pad and was able to completely remove the varnish coat. The alcohol had softened it and it came off very easily.cloud18

cloud19

cloud20

cloud21 I heated the stinger in the tenon until I was able to wiggle it free of the airway. One side of the two prongs that held in place in the tenon was cracked so I repaired it and set it aside to dry. I cleaned out the shank and the stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol.cloud22 I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to remove some of the wavy marks from previous repairs to tooth damage. I sanded until the stem was smooth and then sanded it with a medium and a fine grit sanding sponge. I also sanded the bowl with the same sanding papers and sponges to minimize the dents and scratches in the finish.cloud23

cloud24

cloud25

cloud26

cloud27 I reamed the bowl with a PipNet reamer to remove the cake on the upper portion of the bowl.cloud28

cloud29 I sanded the bowl and rim with micromesh sanding pads- wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads. I wiped the bowl down with a light coat of olive oil before proceeding to sand with 3200-4000 grit pads. I rubbed it down a second time and then sanded it with 6000-12000 grit pads. I buffed it by hand to see what the finish looked like at this point.cloud30

cloud31

cloud32

cloud33

cloud34

cloud35

cloud36

cloud37 I sanded the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and then rubbed it down with Obsidian Oil. I dry sanded with 3200-4000 grit pads and gave it another coat of the oil. I checked the stinger and for some reason there was some dark grime that appeared in the slot in the stinger. I cleaned it again with pipe cleaners before sanding some more with 6000-12000 grit pads. I gave the stem a final coat of Obsidian Oil and set the pipe aside to dry.cloud38

cloud39

cloud40 I buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel and then gave the bowl and stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed it to a shine with a clean flannel buffing wheel. When I finished buffing it on the wheel I took it back to the work table and buffed it by hand with a microfibre cloth. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. It should deliver a good smoke to whoever adds it to their rack. The briar is certainly interesting to look at now that the finish has been stripped and the bowl polished. Thanks for looking.cloud41cloud42cloud43cloud44

 

Peterson’s Capt. Pete XL21 cleanup


Great work on that Mark. That is a shape I really like. Well done. If you plan on selling it let me know.

Lone Star Briar Works's avatarLone Star Briar Works Blog

I got this Capt. Pete for a low price because of the condition of the pipe as shown in the seller pics, I have included my own pics instead. Its a thick diamond shanked stubby bulldog canted forward. Well, as can be seen by the pics, this pipe was abused! The stem had plenty of oxidation, the rim had scorch marks front and back that burnt down into the briar. There was a bunch of pock marks on the back of the rim but the worst abuse was a large area chipped off the back. Prepare yourself for graphic photographic evidence…

image

image

image

image

image

image

I dropped the stem in an oxyclean/hot water bath and scrubbed every half hour with a green sponge. There was minimal chatter which cleaned up with 220 grit paper followed by finer grits until I hit it on the buffer wheels to gloss it up. The brass P was…

View original post 329 more words