Tag Archives: Waxing a vulcanite stem

Restoring a Kaywoodie Standard Octagonal 44 Apple

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Blog by Steve Laug

Last week I received a text from Robert about restoring three pipes his brother had found in Eastern New York. There were two Kaywoodies and a Churchill. The Kaywoodies included a small apple stamped Campus and an octagonal pipe stamped Kaywoodie Standard. The Churchill 999 Pot shaped pipe. He sent along two photos of the pipes. You can see the condition of the three pipes. They are dirty and worn. The last pipe in the photo, the Campus has what appears to be a broken shank and a potential repair. It looks to be poorly done. Robert said that he was fairly certain that the stem was glued onto the shank with the repair. On Saturday he brought the pipes by for me to look at. I now had three more pipes to clean up and repair. The Churchill 999 Pot and the Kaywoodie Standard Oxagonal 44 Apple were dirty but were in good repair. I had finished the little KW Campus repair and the pipe looked good (https://rebornpipes.com/2024/04/21/repairing-and-restoring-a-kaywoodie-campus-apple/). I looked second Kaywoodie, the Octagonal Apple over carefully and this is what I saw. There was a thick cake in the bowl with tobacco debris. There was a coat of lava on the rim top that was quite thick but the inner edge looked very good. The outer edge had some damage on the back side above the shank bowl union. The finish was dirty but otherwise showed some nice grain underneath. The stem was dirty with light tooth chatter on both sides ahead of the button.

Dal had worked on a Kaywoodie Standard, but shape 33 and done a fair bit of research on the pipe (https://rebornpipes.com/2020/03/23/new-life-for-a-kaywoodie-standard-apple-for-a-special-pipe-woman/). I have included the link above if you would like to read it. I have copied the pertinent portion on the 2 digit shape numbers and dating of the pipe below.

The next picture in this set shows the Kaywoodie shape number ‘33’ on the right flank of the shank which points to the designation of a ‘Large Apple’ from the US production of Kaywoodie pipes (LINK).  According to this discussion on Tapatalk.com, the 2-digit system, employed from 1927 to 1972 when the system was changed to a 3-digit system, was when pipe production (for Kaywoodie, Yello-Bole and Medico) was moved to the Medico factory in Richmond Hill Queens NY as plans for new plant were in process.  The 3-digit numbers was used during this period for all Kaywoodie and Medico pipes, from 1972 to 1980.  The same article indicated that the 2-digit numbers were only for Kaywoodies produced in the US – that Kaywoodie of London (Cadogan) had their own three-digit system.  Putting all the information together, this Kaywoodie Apple is most likely a 1960s vintage.  According to the Kaywoodie Discussion at MyFreeForum the ‘Standard’ line of Kaywoodie started in the 1950s, but with the 2 digit shape number and the 3 hole stinger, the evidence points to the 1960s dating.

I included a portion of the shape number chart from Pipedia and the link to the chart as well (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Kaywoodie_Shape_Numbers). I did a screen capture of the section with the shape 44 number. It is interesting in that the shape was available for only a few years – 1965 to 1970. That helps narrow down the date on the pipe I am working on. It also identifies it as an Octagon Apple.I also have included a portion of a chart with the pipe line names and the approximate date of manufacture below (https://pipedia.org/images/3/3d/Kaywoodie_Pipe_Names.pdf). It identifies the date of the Standard line production between 1950 and the present.I learned that the line was introduced in 1950 and the specific shape I had in hand was made between 1965 and 1970. The tenon/stinger was a typical Drinkless type and was threaded to screw into the fitment in the shank. From that I knew that I was working on an older pipe.

I took photos of the pipe when I brought it to the worktable. I wanted to show the general condition of the pipe before I started my work on it. You can see the cake in the bowl and the lava on the rim top. The damage on the back edge of the rim top is also visible. The stem is dirty and lightly oxidized as noted and light tooth marks are on the top and underside ahead of the button. I took some close up photos of the rim top and the stem surface. I wanted to show the condition of both more closely. The rim top and the inner and outer edges of the bowl heavily cake in lava and you can see the marks on the back outer edge. I also took close up photos of the stem to show the general dullness of the stem and the light tooth marks on the stem surface. I took a photo of the stamping on the left side of the shank and it is clear and readable. It is stamped as noted above. The right side has the shape number but it is almost filled in with dirt. It is still readable but I could not capture it in a photo. I removed the stem for the shank and took a photo of the bowl and stem to give a picture of what it looked like.Now it is time to clean up the pipe. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer and the second cutting head. It cleaned up most of the cake. I used a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife and cleaned up the remaining cake leaving bare briar. I sanded the bowl walls with 220 grip sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. I smoothed out the bowl walls and they looked very good. There was no heat damage or checking on the walls. I scrubbed out the shank and the stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol. I cleaned up the stinger with pipe cleaners, cotton pads and alcohol.I scrubbed the exterior of the bowl and shank with a tooth brush and undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap. It works exceptionally well to remove unwanted oils from the briar and also the grime on the rim and the bowl sides. I rinsed it in warm water while scrubbing with the tooth brush. The pipe looks very good at this point. The rim top is clean enough to know the condition it is in and what I need to do to deal with it. I gently topped the bowl to remove the damage on the rim top and to minimize it on the rear edge where the most damage was. I used a topping board and 220 grit sandpaper.I repaired the outer edge of the rim at the back with clear CA glue and briar dust. I sanded it smooth with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to start blending the repair into the rest of the briar. It was smooth to touch and did not stand out as a dark repair.I sanded the bowl and rim top to clean up the damage and repairs to the edge using 320-3500 grit sanding pads. I wiped the bowl down with a damp cloth after each pad. It really began to take on a shine. I polished the briar with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with a damp cloth to remove the sanding debris on the surface. I rubbed the bowl down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the surface of the briar with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect it. I let the balm sit for a little while and then buffed with a cotton cloth and shoe brush to raise the shine. I set the bowl aside and turned to address the stem issues. I “painted” the stem surface with the flame of a lighter. I filled in the deep tooth marks with black CA glue. Once it cured I sanded it flat to the stem surface with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper. It looked much better at this point. To blend the repairs into the surface of the vulcanite I sanded it with 320-3500 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with a damp cloth. By the final 3500 grit sanding pad the rim top had a shine. The stem was in good condition so I polished the vulcanite with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad. I used Before & After Pipe Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine to further polish the stem. I gave it a final coat of Obsidian Oil and set it aside to dry. This Kaywoodie Standard Imported Briar 44 Octagonal Apple cleaned up really well and looks very good. The Before & After Restoration Balm brought the colours and grain out in the smooth finish on the pipe. It works well with the polished oval vulcanite taper stem. I put the stem back on the bowl and carefully buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the buffing wheel. I followed that by buffing the entire pipe with a clean buffing pad. I hand buffed the pipe with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished Kaywoodie Standard 44 Octagonal Apple fits nicely in the hand and I think it will feel great as it heats up with a good tobacco. Give the finished pipe a look in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 1 ½ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.34 ounces/38 grams. I know Robert is going to enjoy this second pipe of the three once I return it to him with the other pipes he dropped off. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I worked on it.

Repairing and restoring a Kaywoodie Campus Apple

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Blog by Steve Laug

Last week I received a text from Robert about restoring three pipes his brother had found in Eastern New York. There were two Kaywoodies and a Churchill. The Kaywoodies included a small apple stamped Campus and an octagonal pipe stamped Kaywoodie Standard. The Churchill 999 Pot shaped pipe. He sent along two photos of the pipes. You can see the condition of the three pipes. They are dirty and worn. The last pipe in the photo, the Campus has what appears to be a broken shank and a potential repair. It looks to be poorly done. Robert said that he was fairly certain that the stem was glued onto the shank with the repair. On Saturday he brought the pipes by for me to look at. The Churchill 999 Pot and the Kaywoodie Standard Oxagonal billiard were dirty but were in good repair. The one that got my attention was the little Campus with the cracked shank. I looked it over carefully and Robert was correct it appeared that the stem had been glued in the shank and it was overclocked. The repair was odd. It appeared that half of the shank that fit the depth of the metal threaded insert had cracked completely off. It had been repaired with what appeared to be white wood glue. It did not fit well and there were gaps on the top and bottom side as shown in the photos. There was also a moderated cake in the bowl with tobacco debris. There was some lava on the rim top that was quite thick but the inner and outer edge looked very good. The finish was dirty but otherwise showed some nice grain underneath. The stem was overclocked and dirty with light tooth chatter on both sides ahead of the button. I have seen other Kaywoodie Campus pipes but other than a faint memory was not clear where they fit in the line and when they were made. I turned to Pipephil’s site to refresh my memory and see what he had on the brand (http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-kaywoodie-1.html). I did a screen capture of the pertinent section and have included the side bar information below the photo.The Campus Kaywoodie line was introduced in 1957 and these pipes do not bear the 2 digit shape code. Campus and Colt series are Kaywoodies smallest pipes (to be smoked between two classes). Although the Campus pipes have a Synchro Stem like screw-in attachment, the stinger itself is not of the Drinkless type (see enlarged view #2 – http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/lightbox/images/next.png)

I learned that the line was introduced in 1957 and did not have any shape numbers. The pipes were designed on the small side to give a quick smoke between classes on campus. The tenon/stinger was not a typical Drinkless type but the fit to the stem was the same threaded type of attachment. From that I knew that I was working on an older pipe.

Now it was time to work on the pipe. I started my work on the pipe by seeing if I could loosen the stem from the shank. I used a cotton swab to push acetone into the cracked area and the metal fitment on the shank. I repeated the process then soaked a cotton pad and wrapped it around the shank connection. I let it sit for 30 minutes while I worked on another pipe.I once again tried to turn the stem on the shank and it easily came free of the shank. The threads were very dirty but I could see no glue visible on the threads. I took some pictures of the shank repair at this point in the process. You can see how the white glue that filled in the cracks around the shank had begun to dissolve showing the damage clearly in the shank fit.I soaked the crack with more acetone using a q-tip. It did not take much for the broken piece to come free of the shank. I took a photo of the pipe at this point. You can see the cracked portion still glued to the metal insert in the shank. You can also see the grime in the threads of the tenon and in the ridges on the insert. It is dirty.I soaked the broken piece of briar in a small bowl of acetone to loosen the briar from the metal shank insert. It did not take long for the glue to soften on the shank piece and it floated free of the metal insert. I cleaned up the broken pieces of the briar and glued it in place on the shank. I pressed the parts together until the glue set. Once the repair cured I cleaned up the shank insert and painted the surface with wood glue then pressed it into the shank end. I let it sit until the glue hardened.I filled in the divots and cracked areas in the shank end with clear CA glue and briar dust to build up a smooth surface on the shank end. I sanded the repairs with 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the surface.I used a rasp to reduce the size of the metal insert edge and the high spots on the briar of the shank in preparation for fitting it with a repair band to bind everything together. I sanded out the file marks on the briar. Once I had it smooth enough for fitting the band I fit the band on the shank end and heated it with the flame of a lighter. I pressed it against a hard surface to push it fully onto the shank end. I took photos of the newly fitted band on the shank and it looked very good. Now it is time to clean up the pipe. I reamed the bowl with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife and took the cake back to bare briar. I sanded the bowl walls with 220 grip sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. I smoothed them out and the bowl walls looked very good. There was no heat damage or checking on the walls.I scrubbed out the shank with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol. I had already done this to some degree when I had the pipe in parts earlier but I wanted to clean it up further. I also swabbed out the inside of the bowl with a folded pipe cleaner to remove the dust. I cleaned out the inside of the stem with pipe cleaners and alcohol.Quite awhile ago now, Mark Hoover of Before & After Restoration Balm fame sent me a sample of his briar cleaner. When it arrived it had leaked all over the package so there was very little left in the bottle. It was a mess to clean up so I just set it aside where it has been sitting for several years now. I thought I might as well scrub the briar with it. I scrubbed it down with a tooth brush and rinsed it off with some warm running water. I dried it off with a soft cloth. It looked much better. I touched up the stain on the rim top and around the end of the newly place band with a Cherry stain pen.I polished the briar with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with a damp cloth to remove the sanding debris on the surface. I rubbed the bowl down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the surface of the briar with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect it. I let the balm sit for a little while and then buffed with a cotton cloth and shoe brush to raise the shine. I set the bowl aside and turned to address the stem issues. To address the scratches and marks in the surface of the vulcanite as well as some residual oxidation. I sanded it with 320-3500 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with a damp cloth. By the final 3500 grit sanding pad the rim top had a shine.The stem was in good condition to I polished the vulcanite with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad. I used Before & After Pipe Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine to further polish the stem. This Kaywoodie Campus Saddle Stem Apple cleaned up really well and looks very good. The Before & After Restoration Balm brought the colours and grain out in the finish on the pipe. It works well with the polished vulcanite saddle stem. I put the stem back on the bowl and carefully buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel using a light touch on the briar. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the buffing wheel. I followed that by buffing the entire pipe with a clean buffing pad. I hand buffed the pipe with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished Kaywoodie Campus Saddle Stem Apple fits nicely in the hand and I think it will feel great as it heats up with a good tobacco. Give the finished pipe a look in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 1 ¼ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 inch, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is .81 ounces/23 grams. I know Robert is going to enjoy this pipe once I return it to him with the other pipes he dropped off. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I worked on it. m

Replacing a Broken Tenon on one of my own – a Svendborg Full Bent Apple

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Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the work table is one that I had restored previously and had really enjoyed smoking. This older Svendborg Bent Apple was a great smoking pipe that is light weight and enjoyable. I had reamed, cleaned, restored and reclaimed a worn bowl and tired vulcanite stem (https://rebornpipes.com/2013/03/04/refurbished-svendborg-full-bent-apple/). It is stamped on the underside of the shank ahead of the vulcanite shank extension. It reads Svendborg [over] Denmark [over] Hand Made. It has a nice looking dark sandblast finish on the bowl culminating in a thin rim top. The fancy turned saddle stem has a Svendborg logo stamped on the left side. About a year ago we had a flood in our basement and the restoration folks packed my pipes and tobacco storage up and took it away. When they brought it back and unpacked it I found that the tenon was snapped off in the shank extension. Fast forward to a year later – today, and you will find it on my work table. After lunch today, I decided to replace the tenon and re-restore the pipe once again. I decided to record the process once more so you can see the steps. Here is what it looked like when I started. I took a photo of the snapped tenon before trying to remove it. I used a drywall screw and tried to pull the broken tenon out of the shank. It was too tight and did not move at all. I put it in the freezer for 20 minutes and once I took it out I tried again to remove the broken tenon. I turned the screw in the airway and it came free of the shank extension without any trouble. It was now ready for a tenon replacement.From the previous restoration I have inserted the following information on the brand. I quote it below:

From http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-s8.html I learned the following information: The Svendborg brand founded in 1970s by Henrik Jørgensen, Poul Ilsted and Tao Nielsen. They bought an old factory (Nordisc Pibefabriker) in Svendborg on Funen Island. Poul and Tao gradually bowed out from machine manufactured pipes (1982) and Henrik Jørgensen managed the brand until it was taken over by Design Berlin (D) in the late 90’s. Kaj C. Rasmussen joined the firm for several years. 17 employees worked for this brand under Henrik Jørgensen direction. I was given this pipe by a good friend last weekend when I visited him on Vancouver Island. The bowl was in great shape and the stem merely oxidized. There were no bite marks and some minimal tooth chatter on the underside of the stem near the button. The pipe is stamped on the underside Svendborg over Danish over Hand Made and on the left side of the shank is stamped Bark. The stem has the squashed S logo on the left side. The stem is a chairleg type saddle near the shank. The shank has a vulcanite shank extension.

I started the work on the new tenon by flattening the end of the chairleg stem. It was rough from where the tenon had snapped. I used a topping board with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the jagged pieces of vulcanite from the stem end.I went through my tenons and found one that had a similar diameter to the broken tenon piece that I had kept. I would need to be shaped and deduces in diameter to get a snug fit but it was close.I used a sanding drum on my Dremel to start the process and finished up with a rasp. I took off the necessary amount and smoothed out the files marks to make sure it was round. I cleaned up the tenon a bit more and put the tenon in the shank. It fit the shank very well at this point. I set the bowl aside with the tenon and worked on the stem end. I started opening the airway in the tenon with a pen knife. I have found that doing this gives a good guide for the drilling of the opening. Once finished with the knife I started with a drill bit in my cordless drill that was slightly larger than the airway and slowly turned it into the airway. I changed the bits until I used the 11/64 drill bit. I sanded down the threaded portion of the new tenon until the fit was perfect. I painted the threaded end of the tenon with medium thick black CA. I spread it on the tenon with a dental spatula. I pressed it into the stem end and aligned it with a pipe cleaner. I set the stem aside to allow the glue to cure.Once the glue cured and the tenon was solidly anchored in the stem I put it in the shank extension and took photos. The pipe was back to normal and looked great. I took a photo of the bowl and the shank/stem fit. It looked very good and the fit in the shank was snug.I took the stem from the shank and took a photo of the parts. You can clearly see the new tenon in the photo. The bend of the stem matches the curves of the bowl and shank. It is a great looking pipe.I would soon be able to enjoy it once again. I set the pipe aside until the morning. I generally leave a repair like this cure overnight before smoking a bowl. Thanks for following along with the blog. I hope that at least some of the process is helpful to you in your own restoration work. Enjoy your pipes!