Tag Archives: Bowl – refinishing

Restoring a Peterson Dunmore #72


Blog by Steve Laug

The Dunmore line from Peterson really is a stripped down pipe. The one that I worked on this weekend was in essence a system pipe. The lack of a ferrule is made up for by a stylized carving around the shank end. The stem sits snugly against the end of the shank but is not flush with the diameter of the shank. The saddle on the stem has a different flair than a regular Peterson pipe. The one we found had a Plip stem. This particular Dunmore was found by my friend John when we went pipe hunting this weekend. We had a blast as can be seen from the haul of pipes that he picked up below. The Dunmore is picture at the top left of the first column in the photo below. below. IMG_2050 While John worked on restoring the oak pipe rack that he had found I worked on his Peterson Dunmore. This old pipe had some beautiful grain – birdseye on both sides and cross grain front and back. The bowl almost perfectly aligned with the grain on this one. I forgot to take pictures of the pipe before I began cleaning it up so the only one that is left of the pre-clean is shown in the group photo above. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet reamer and then cleaned out the sump and the internals of the bowl and stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and isopropyl alcohol until all came out clean. Dunmore1 The finish on the bowl was virtually non-existent as it had worn away. I wiped it down with acetone to clean the briar and remove the oils and marks that had settled on top of the wood. The acetone pads came away dirty with the grime more than with any previous colour or stain. Cleaning the surface revealed even more clearly the marvelous grain that was on this pipe. Dunmore2 The top of the bowl and rim had some damage from tapping out the pipe. The outer edge of the rim particularly had taken a beating. The bowl was still in round so the inner edge was fine. To minimize the damage to the top and the outer edge I set up a topping board with 220 grit sandpaper and worked on the bowl top. (The whole time I was working on this pipe I gave a running commentary to John as he wanted to know the process so that he could clean up some of the other pipes once he had finished the rack). Dunmore3 Dunmore4 After topping the bowl I sanded the outer edge with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to remove some of the darkening around the bowl top. I resanded it with medium and fine grit sandpaper to remove scratches and did the same to the rim top. I sanded the entirety of the rim and edges with 2400 grit micromesh to smooth it out. After wiping down the briar with alcohol to remove the dust from the surface of the bowl John and I decided not to stain the pipe but to keep it natural. I rubbed it down with a bit of olive oil to give some life to the wood and then buffed it with White Diamond. I was careful to not buff the areas around the stamping so as not to damage them. I chose rather to buff these areas by hand with a shoe brush. I gave the bowl several coats of carnauba wax and buffed it with a soft flannel buff to shine it. Dunmore5 Dunmore6 Dunmore7 There were two small crevices that showed up on the inside of the bowl on the right side about ¼ inch below the rim. I mixed a batch of pipe mud and filled the small crevices and smoothed the mud over the surrounding area of the bowl. I set it aside to dry while I worked on the stem.

The stem had a lot of tooth chatter and a few shallow tooth marks on the top and the bottom next to the button. It also had a deep oxidation that required a lot of elbow grease to remove. I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the surface oxidation and the calcification near the button. I “painted” the stem with my Bic lighter to raise more of the oxidation to the surface and also to raise the small tooth marks on the stem. I sanded it some more with the 220 grit sandpaper followed by a medium and a fine grit sanding sponge. That work brought it to the condition shown in the next two photos below. Dunmore8 Dunmore9 I sanded it with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12,000 grit pads. I rubbed the stem down between each set of three pads with Obsidian Oil. After finishing with the 12,000 grit pad I buffed it lightly with White Diamond on the wheel and then rubbed it down one more time with the oil. When it had dried I gave the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax and buffed it to a shine. Dunmore10 Dunmore11 Dunmore12 I hand buffed the completed pipe with a bit more wax and a shoe brush to finish the polish. The finished pipe is shown below in all of its beauty. I am really glad we decided to leave the wood natural and only give it a light oil finish before waxing. The grain stands out well and the feel of the pipe in hand is very nice. John loved the finished pipe. I am looking forward to hearing from him once he has smoked it a few times. Dunmore13 Dunmore14 Dunmore15 Dunmore16

Got Today’s Apple! Restoring an Imported Briar Apple


Yet another gift pipe bowl that I had in my box was a no name Imported Briar Apple. It had a threaded tenon and I just “happened” to have a stem that fit it perfectly in my can of stems. (One day I need to get the stems sorted and organized more. Currently I have a can of round stems and a can of everything else stems. This necessitates emptying the entire can on the work table each time I need them and sorting through to find what I need.) The stem was a used Grabow stem that was missing the stinger but the tenon was intact. It was oxidized and dirty but very functional. There were no tooth marks or bite marks on the surface. When twisted onto the pipe it was slightly overturned. IMG_2015 IMG_2016 The bowl had an interesting finish in that the briar was smooth around the rounded rim and down the bowl. Then there were grooves or what I call worm trails cut vertically down the sides of the bowl and horizontally on the shank. The all culminated in rusticated pattern on the bottom of the bowl. The finish was shot and the worm trails had all nature of detritus packed into them. The grooves were full in some places. The stain was present but worn. If there had ever been a varnish coat it too was gone. The aluminum mortise insert was well oxidized. The bowl had a thick buildup of cake and loose pieces of tobacco handing on the sides. The rim was dirty but did not have any damage. IMG_2017 IMG_2018 I heated the tenon with a Bic lighter and straightened the overclocked stem. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer and then scrubbed the bowl down with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush. I rinsed it with lukewarm water and dried it off. I scrubbed the buildup on the rim with a cotton pad and saliva and then used isopropyl alcohol on a cotton pad until I had broken through the tough outer coat. I used a medium grit sanding sponge to sand off the rest of the buildup and then wiped it down again with alcohol. IMG_2019 IMG_2020 I wiped down the exterior of the bowl and shank with acetone on cotton pads to remove the remaining finish. IMG_2022 I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the oxidation and the calcification buildup at the button. I worked in the creases with a sanding stick. Once I had cut through the oxidation I sanded the stem with a medium and a fine grit sanding sponge.IMG_2026 IMG_2027 IMG_2028 IMG_2029 Once I had removed the finish and did the initial sanding on the stem I cleaned out the shank and stem with cotton swabs, pipe cleaners and alcohol until they were clean. IMG_2024 IMG_2025 I sanded the aluminum mortise insert with medium and fine grit sanding pads. I stained the bowl with a Danish Oil Walnut stain. IMG_2030 IMG_2031 IMG_2032 After I had stained the pipe I put a cork in the bowl and set it aside in an old candle stick holder to dry while I worked on the stem. IMG_2033 IMG_2034 IMG_2035 IMG_2036 I sanded the stem with my usual array of micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12,000 grit pads. I rubbed it down with Obsidian Oil between each set of three sanding pads and gave it a final coat of the oil after sanding with the 12,000 grit pad. I took it to the buffer and buffed it with White Diamond. IMG_2037 IMG_2038 IMG_2040 When the stain on the bowl had dried I put the stem on the pipe and then gave the entire pipe another buff with the White Diamond and then gave it multiple coats of carnauba wax. I finished by buffing it with a soft flannel buff to raise the shine on the bowl and stem. The finished pipe is shown below. The stem actually looks like it is the original stem and the pipe looks as good as new. It is ready for a long life in the hands of the next pipeman who takes it home to join his/her rack. IMG_2041 IMG_2042 IMG_2046 IMG_2048

Restoring a Jobey Stromboli 160


jobeylogo I have been looking for a Jobey Stromboli for quite a while now but never found the shape I wanted. I love the rustic almost Sea Rock look of the Stromboli finish and the Jobey link system has intrigued me. So when I saw this one on EBay it only took a minute to make a bid and lock in the end price I was willing to pay for the pipe. The shape, the wavy rim surface and the flow of the stem attracted me. The Lucite stems on many of these pipes was quite thick and cumbersome looking but this one is nice and streamlined looking and reminds me of the GBD chairleg stems on some of their pipes. The seller says that it was in good shape and that the stem was a green colour. The bowl exterior looks odd to me and definitely the finish has taken a bit of a beating. The rusticated finish is quite forgiving however so I am hopeful that a good scrub and restain will do the trick. The stem appears to be in good shape with minimal tooth chatter on the top and bottom sides near the button. The six photos below were included by the seller in the EBay listing. Jobey1 Jobey2 Jobey4 Jobey5 Jobey6 Jobey7 Since I know next to nothing about Jobeys in general and more specifically about their claim to fame Link System I decided to do a bit of digging on the web. I have included a picture of the link taken from the web to give an idea of what the actual part looks like. link Chris beat me to it and posted this patent applied for and issued for the bowl and shank connection I have included the entire patent document in the text of this article because it is fascinating to me to read how the designer worded his application and how the cutaway pictures show the connector both in terms of side views and end views.

Smoking pipe bowl shank and stem connection
US 3537462 A
Images(1)
Jobey links Description (OCR text may contain errors)
United States Patent Peter V. Genna Inventor Brooklyn, New York Appl. No. 802,170 Filed Feb. 25, 1969 Patented Nov. 3, 1970 Assignee Wally Frank, Ltd. New York, New York a corporation of New York SMOKING PIPE BOWL SHANK AND STEM CONNECTION 1 Claim, 4 Drawing Figs. US. Cl 131/225 Int. Cl A24f 1/00, A24f 7/02 Field of Search 131/225 [56] References Cited V UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,168,481 l/1916 Combs 131/225 2,461,905 2/1949 Lavietes 131/225 3,044,472 7/1962 Keyser 131/225 FOREIGN PATENTS 274,743 7/1927 Great Britain 131/225 Primary ExaminerJoseph S. Reich Attorney-Harry B. Rook ABSTRACT: A coupler to separately connect the bowl shank and the stem of a smoking pipe, has one end threaded to screw into the shank bore. The other end portion is cylindrically smooth and the stem is frictionally longitudinally and rotatablyslidable thereon. Between said end portions the coupler has a circumferential flange that is disposed wholly in a counterbore of said shank and firmly seats on the bottom wall of the counterbore.

SMOKING PIPE BOWL SHANK AND STEM CONNECTION BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
In one type of shank and stem connection, the stem has a cylindrical tenon at one end which is longitudinally slidable and rotatable in a bore in the shank.

Another type of shank and stem connection comprises a screw threaded tenon on the stem and a complementary screw-threaded bore in the shank.

The first-mentioned type of connection has the objection that it is difficult to obtain a tight nonseeping joint between this shank and the stern, and it is practically impossible to maintain a snug connection between the parts because of the wear incident to frequent removal and replacement of the stem.

The second-mentioned connection has the objection that due to wear of the screw threads looseness in the connection of the parts occurs and results in seepage of moisture through the connection. Also attempts to tighten the connection by screwing the stern more firmly into the shank results in a displacement of the bit or mouthpiece of the stem with respect to the bowl and sometimes causes a stripping or damaging of the threads in either or both of the shank and tenon.

SUMMARY
One object of the present invention is to provide a connection between a bowl shank and a stem which shall overcome the above-mentioned objections to the prior art.

More particularly the invention contemplates a construction and a combination of a bowl shank, stem and coupler wherein the coupler has one end screw threaded into the bore, and the stem is frictionally longitudinally and rotatably slidable on the other end portion of the coupling; and said coupler has a circumferential flange between said end portion that is disposed wholly in a counterbore of the shank and firmly seats on the bottom wall of the counterbore, whereby the stem can slide longitudinally and rotate on the coupler and the coupler can be tightly screwed into the shank bore without danger of stripping the threads and with practical insurance of a seepage-proof joint between the coupler and the shank.

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
For a complete understanding of the invention, reference should be had to the following description in conjunction with the accompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 is a central vertical longitudinal sectional view through portions of the bowl shank and stem and showing the coupler in side elevation;

FIG. 2 is an enlarged central, vertical longitudinal sectional view with portions of the bowl and the stem omitted;

FIG. 3 is an end view of the coupler; and

FIG. 4 is a similar view on the plane of the line 4-4 of FIG. 2.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION
The reference character A designates the smoking pipe bowl which has a shank B provided with a smoke duct 1 and a bore 2 to receive the coupler C which serves to separately connect the shank B to the stem D.

The shank bore 2 is entirely screw threaded at 3-to receive the threads 4 on one end portion of the coupler C the other end portion of which is smoothly cylindrical as indicated at 5 and on which is longitudinally slidable and rotatable the stem D. Preferably the coupler is formed of a moldable plastic material, for example hard rubber or Bakelite, and the stem is preferably formed of the same material. Between its said end portions, the coupler has a circumferential flange 6 which is adapted to be wholly disposed within a counterbore 7 at the end of the bore in the shank. The depth of the counterbore is greater than the thickness of the flan e. When the screwthreaded end of the coupler IS screwed into the bore of the shank, the flange 6 firmly or tightly abuts the bottom wall 8 of the counterbore. For convenience in screwing the coupler into the shank and unscrewing it from the shank, the coupler is provided with a diametrical kerf 9 in the stem-receiving end thereof.

However, in accordance with the invention the stem has a sufficiently tight frictional fit on the coupler so that the coupler can be screwed into and out of the shank bore by simple rotation of the stem. The stem has at one end a cylindrical smooth-walled socket 12 which receives the cylindrical end 5 of the coupler and the stem and is frictionally rotatable on the coupler so that the stem can be easily adjusted into the proper relation to the bowl, and the stem is also longitudinally slidable on the coupler so that the inner end 10 of the stem can be kept in neat and tight abutment with the end surface 11 of the shank. FIG. 2 shows the stem slid away from the end of the shank while FIG. 1 shows the stern and shank in their normal relation to each other.

It will be seen readily that the flange-limits the screwing of the coupler into the shank and thus protects against stripping of the threads. At the same time, the flange abutting the bottom wall of the counterbore provides a seepage-proof joint between the coupler and the shank. To compensate for wear of the threads or of the abutting surfaces of the flange and the counterbore, the coupler can be screwed farther into the bore, and the stem can be slid on the coupler to maintain the neat and tight joint between the end 10 of the stem and the end 11 of the shank.

Claim:
l. A smoking pipe comprising a bowl having a shank which has an internally screw-threaded bore at the outer end of which is a counterbore, a stem having at one end a cylindrical smooth walled socket providing a bottom wall therein, and a coupler having a cylindrical smooth end portion frictionally received in said socket for relative longitudinal movement and rotation, said coupler having its other end portion screwthreaded to mate with said screw-threaded bore and having a flange between said end portions wholly disposed in said counterbore and in firm abutting contact with the bottom wall of said counterbore, the depth of the counterbore being greater than the thickness of the flange.

Classifications
U.S. Classification 131/225
International Classification A24F7/00, A24F7/02
Cooperative Classification A24F7/02
European Classification A24F7/02

Further digging led me to learn that Jobey has had three homes throughout its existence. The pipes were originally made in England circa 1920 and then the company moved to the US. The Jobey Dansk version of the pipes was made in Denmark. Now the pipes are produced in Saint-Claude, France by Butz-Choquin since 1987. Under these broad time lines I was able to find a listing of the owner/distributor and manufacture of the brand during the time period that the brand was in the US.The list below was what I was able to find in several spots on the web. Each time I read the list it was cited that the dates are/were approximate.(The majority of the information below comes from Pipedia.)

Owners/Distributors/Manufacturers of Jobey Pipes from 1942-the late 80s

George Yale Pipes & Tobacco, New York (1942)
Norwalk Pipe Co., New York (1949)
Arlington Briar Pipes Corporation, Brooklyn (when?)
Hollco International, New York (1969).
Weber Pipe Co., Jersey City, NJ (1970’s)
The Tinderbox (1970’s – 80’s).

“Throughout decades Jobey pipes were mainly sold in the USA, Canada and England but remained almost unknown in continental Europe. The bulk of Jobeys was predominantly made according to classical patterns and mainly in the lower to middle price range. The predominant judgment of the pipe smokers reads: “A well made pipe for the price.” So there is hardly anything very special or exciting about Jobey pipes although a flyer from ca. 1970 assures: “The briar root Jobey insists upon for its peer of pipes is left untouched to grow, harden and sweeten for 100 years. […] Jobey uses only the heart of this century old briar and only one out of 500 bowls turned measures up to the rigid Jobey specifications.”99.80% of cull… that makes the layman marveling!”

“Yet then there are partially really exciting Freehands mainly in the seventies, that Jobey – Weber owned back then – bought from Danish pipe genius Karl Erik (Ottendahl). These pipes were offered as Jobey Dansk – ’70’s pure! (BTW waning sales caused Ottendahl to discontinue exports to the United States in 1987.)”

In the very same year – obviously only as a ghost brand – Jobey was transferred to Saint-Claude, France to be manufactured by Butz-Choquin.

There must have been an abandonment of the fabrication, because in 2002 the message was spread, the current proprietor of the brand F&K Cigar Co. from St. Louis, MO had recently re-introduced the Jobey very successfully again…”

I thought that the information might give me some idea as to when the pipe I had was made. However there was no information on the stamping distinctives of the various makers. Judging from the style of the stem and the thick, coloured Lucite it is made from my assessment would be that the pipe came from the period of the late 60s or 70s. It is not a Danish style Dansk so it is not from the period that Ottendahl carved the pipes so that would preclude it being Danish made. I am thinking it was American made. That is about as certain as I can be on the dating of this pipe.

When it arrived I was pleased with the overall look of the pipe. The deep rustication reminded me of Castello Sea Rocks. The finish was worn and the stain was missing on some of the high spots on the rustication. The rustication on the rim was filled in with a buildup of tars and oils. The bowl had been reamed and was clean. The photos from the seller had an almost green tint in some portions of the bowl. I was glad to see that the finish did not have any mold problems. The interior of the shank was quite dirty. The threaded mortise was filled with black tars and oils. The stem had tooth chatter on the top and bottom near the button but there were no tooth marks or dents that were deep in the surface. The fit of the stem to the shank was clean and tight. I am not sure whether the threaded tenon actually is to remain in the shank or the stem. I was unable to remove it from the stem so it acts like a threaded tenon fixed to the stem. The tenon had the same black buildup around the base of the piece and the threads had the same. The pipe was in fair shape and needed a thorough cleanup. The pipe smelled strongly of aromatic tobaccos.

I began the cleanup by scrubbing the exterior of the pipe with a tooth-brush and Murphy’s Oil Soap. I used it undiluted and scrubbed until the soap was dark. I picked the buildup on the rim with a dental pick and cleaned out the grooves there. I rinsed it with lukewarm running water to remove it from the nooks and crannies of the finish. IMG_1979 IMG_1980 Once it was rinsed off I dried it with a cotton towel. The state of the finish is shown in the next three photos. There are spots where the stain is gone but the finish is very clean and ready to be stained. IMG_1981 IMG_1982 IMG_1983 I cleaned out the internals of the bowl and shank with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and isopropyl alcohol. I scrubbed out the threaded mortise with the cotton swabs and alcohol until they came out clean. The airway ahead of the threaded mortise was scrubbed with pipe cleaners. I also gave the stem an initial cleaning. IMG_1984 Once the grime was off the stem the tooth chatter was very evident on the top and bottom sides of the stem. I would need to sand the stem to remove the tooth chatter and restore the shine to the stem. The airway would also need to be cleaned out thoroughly as when I held it to the light it was still black on the inside. IMG_1985 IMG_1986 IMG_1987 I wiped the bowl down with alcohol to prepare it for staining. I used a Dark Brown Aniline stain and applied it with the provided wool dauber. I flamed the stain and repeated the process until the coverage was even across the bowl. IMG_1988 IMG_1989 IMG_1990 IMG_1991 While the bowl was drying I sanded the tooth chatter on the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the marks from the surface of the Lucite. Once the tooth chatter marks were removed I sanded it with a medium and a fine grit sanding sponge to remove the scratching left behind by the sandpaper. The third photo below shows the stem after the sanding sponge has been used. IMG_1992 IMG_1993 IMG_1995 The next step in the sanding process for me has always been to sand with the micromesh sanding pads. I wet sanded with the 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanded with 3200-12,000 grit pads. Each successive grit of micromesh brought a deeper shine to the auburn/hazel coloured Lucite. IMG_1996 IMG_1997 IMG_1998 Once the stain was dry on the exterior of the pipe I wiped it down with a cotton pad wetted with alcohol to lighten the finish slightly. I then gave the pipe a light buff with White Diamond and a shoe brush to raise the shine. I rubbed on some Halcyon II wax to protect the finish from my next step in the process. No matter how much I cleaned the pipe it still smelled of heavy “caramel like” aromatic tobacco. I decided to give it the cotton ball and alcohol treatment. I pressed two cotton balls into the bowl making sure they were not touching the rim and used an ear syringe to fill the bowl with isopropyl alcohol. I wanted to leach out the tars and oils that were in the briar and eradicate the smell. I filled the bowl and set it in an old ice-cube tray overnight. IMG_1999 Within the first 30 minutes the cotton was already turning brown along the edges. This told me that the process was working. IMG_2000 In the morning when I got up the cotton was a medium to dark brown as shown in the photo below. I picked it out carefully with a dental pick. The alcohol had evaporated so the cotton was not soggy, just damp. I wiped out the bowl with cotton swabs and cleaned out the shank once again with pipe cleaners to remove any of the remaining oils and tars from the surface. I lightly buffed it once more with a soft flannel buffing pad to polish the briar and stem. IMG_2001 The finished pipe is shown in the final four photos. It has been waxed with Halcyon II Wax and buffed with a shoe brush and lightly with a soft flannel buffing pad. The stem has multiple coats of carnauba wax and also was buffed with a soft flannel buffing pad. I generally let a bowl that I have given the cotton ball and alcohol or salt and alcohol treatment dry for several days before loading it up and giving it an inaugural smoke. IMG_2010 IMG_2011 IMG_2012 IMG_2013

Ponderings on an Almost Lost Generation of Pipe Smokers, with a Restoration Thrown In – Robert M. Boughton


Guest Blog by Robert M. Boughton
Member, North American Society of Pipe Collectors
http://www.roadrunnerpipes.com
http://about.me/boughtonrobert
Photos © the Author, except when obvious

“If You’re Getting Dad a Pipe, Make It a FRANK MEDICO – HESSON GUARD MILANO…Frank Medico Is the filter-cooled pipe. Changing the filter keeps it fresh, cool, odorless. Milano has a special cushion-sealed guard. Handkerchief test proves it keeps the ‘vital zone’ spotless.”
— Newspaper Ad, 1944, http://209.212.22.88/data/rbr/1940-1949/1944/1944.06.15.pdf,pg.2

INTRODUCTION: THE SO-CALLED GOOD OLD DAYS

If that doesn’t pull your nostalgia trigger, try these other family-friendly happy piper ads, also from the 1940s and our same sponsor:
Rob1
There is a reason I’m focusing on Medico ads, which will become clear, but first take as close a look at these as you can. I apologize for the sizes, but the words are unimportant, inane in fact. Take, as a further example, one short 1928 newspaper ad for the Demuth Milano with the Hesson Guard which read, “Would You Stick Your Handkerchief in the Stem of Your Pipe? This Is Possible with the ‘Metal Guard.’ It Stays Clean.” (http://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1499&dat=19281028&id=aJVQAAAAIBAJ&sjid=siEEAAAAIBAJ&pg=1833,4407321,p.51.)

I wanted to see that trick and by chance came across a “Scientific American” ad on how to “stop goo” in the October 1950 issue with instructions to try the hankie test on a Milano Lockmount, which was a metal gadget with a “permanent” cork tip, all attached to the stem that was inserted into the shank. The ad shows a handkerchief stuffed into the empty shank and suggested it would always come out clean. (http://books.google.com/books?id=7iwDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA26&lpg=PA26&dq=hesson+guard&source=bl&ots=mVrSmRlYxu&sig=5Z3GWlOjardFbCsE6ToDTWjdJuI&hl=en&sa=X&ei=1YIXVJeSEtDioATlzIGABw&ved=0CCMQ6AEwATgU#v=onepage&q=hesson%20guard&f=false,p.26.) My guess is that the operative word in the humongous URL is the last, “false.” What, my enquiring mind wondered, knowing what can happen to cork in pipes under the best of situations, becomes of the cork when it invariably will be saturated with goo? I, for one, do not care to think about it.

As Fred R. Barnard, himself a clever ad man,wrote in the text of one almost always misquoted example of his work in “Printer’s Ink” magazine in 1921, “One look is worth a thousand pictures.”I, for one, love these old ads, not only for their nostalgic value but their frankly corny (now) approach to selling pipes. Viewing them today we need to realize that times and life were not really simpler way back when; our advertising and entertainment were simply more diversionary tactics to deal with the horrors in the world. Who in those days wanted to see real life on the big screen or print ads? Ask the average Joe or Jane on the street that question today and you’re liable to get a litany of reality shows.

Although I am single, from what I gather of married smokers, mostly men, the wives if not the rental agreements rule the household, and so most smokers seem to enjoy their extramarital love affairs out of the home. A few, including our good host Steve, apparently just enjoy it more in the great Canadian outdoors, for example, as I would if I had the rural setting to accommodate my inclination. It’s dangerous enough where I live just to check the mail, so for me “outdoors” means driving my SUV about town with the doors auto-locked, a pipe in my mouth and the sun roof open.

But again, really take a good look at the classic expressions on the faces of the men and women in these ads – unadulterated agreement, if you will indulge perhaps only a fanciful imagination, that the pipe is no problem, so long as it has the vital filter space. Ah, yes, we all know the importance of that special spot. And get a look at the wide-eyed, half-crazed, sideways, Renfield-like peek of utterly tweaked fulfillment on the man’s face in all three, not to mention the “Better Homes and Gardens” Housewife of the Year leer from the woman that gives one the idea that she knows who the real boss in the house is anyway. Why, the man’s expression not only brings to mind Dracula’s bat-nuts servant played so memorably by Dwight Frye in the 1931 horror pinnacle for Bela Lugosi (the only real Dracula movie ever made), it’s even reminiscent of the 1936 cult classic movie, “Reefer Madness,” which with more than a little irony is seen today as the nonsense it is more than public and legislative attitudes aimed at the childish belief that outrageous taxes will eliminate smoking tobacco of any kind, no matter how contemplative and rarefied.

Happily, this brings me to one of my important points. The very word rarefied, in the sense of refined or purified, describes my new friend and fellow pipe club member, Laurence H. Lattman, Ph.D. Had I met Dr. Lattman under different circumstances, or even known when I met him a month or so ago that he earned the degree in geology at the University of Cincinnati with a special knack for geomorphology, I would follow my general urge to refer to him as such.

Larry Lattman, Honest-to-God Old Codger

Larry Lattman, Honest-to-God Old Codger

Larry began a career as a professor at Pennsylvania State University in 1957; he chaired the University of Cincinnati’s Geology Department for five years before moving on to the University of Utah, where he was dean of the College of Engineering and then took the chair of the College of Mines and Mineral Industries; from Utah Larry moved at last to New Mexico, where he was president of New Mexico Tech (then known as the New Mexico Institute of Mining and Technology) until his retirement, and he has authored or co-authored at least 45 scholarly papers and two books.

His honors include the Penn State Distinguished Teaching Award in 1969, a Fulbright Professorship at Moscow State University in 1975, the American Institute of Mining, Metallurgical, and Petroleum Engineers’ (M.I.M.E.) Mineral Industry Education Award in 1986, as well as being a Fellow of the Geological Society of America and a 1981 Distinguished Member of the Society of Mining Engineers. His consultations to organizations and governments worldwide, including the National Academy of Sciences in the U.S., are prolific.

Therefore, of the many very intelligent people with doctorates in this or that whom I have met in my life, surely Dr. Lattman deserves the distinction, and I’m sure that is what his scores of students over the decades he has been an educator call him. To anyone who knows the excellent engineer and geologist better, however, he goes by Larry – just Larry, not even Mr. Lattman. Like most folks, Larry enjoys a good joke, but unlike most, he has a seemingly countless collection from which he can draw at any moment given the trains of thought of those around him, which are often numerous and fast-paced and drawn to the teacher as I imagine he attracts his students. I will not quote any of Larry’s jokes here for various reasons.

Something else special about Larry, and that touches on the purpose of this writing, is that he is 90 years old. This means he has survived being born in the Bronx, New York on November 30, 1923, when the’20s were just starting to Roar, living his formative years during the Great Depression, seeing Prohibition come and go, enlisting in the Army Corps of Engineers when he was 20 and serving the last two years of World War II – all by the time he was barely able to drink legally with today’s standards and morals in this country.

Still, the first thing I can remember Larry saying was, “I smoked my first pipe when I was 18, and FDR was president.” That’s Franklin Delano Roosevelt, the 32nd president of the U.S. and the only one to be elected more than twice (four times: 1932, 1936, 1940 and 1944), before the 22nd Amendment to the Constitution was passed by Congress in 1947 and ratified by the states in 1951.

“I smoked my first pipe when I was 18, and FDR was president.” I will never forget those words. To me, as I suspect is true with most others, they are as hard to imagine as an email sent to me by Larry would have been for him when he was that 18-year-old. As he recalls the occasion of his first pipe experience, it was a rum and maple blend in a Frank Medico filter model that he says was similar to the Medico Harwood Gold Crest most prominent in the second ad above. He added that, during the time at his resume of universities, he “puffed pipes off and on accumulating a group of Dunhills and four dot Sasienis (including a group of seven matched ones in a box with each day of the week specified.)” After a hiatus of about 20 years, Larry continued in the email, he “began to puff in earnest.” Few know the importance of being earnest better than Larry.

Now I will flashback to 1943, when young Larry joined the military to do his part for Uncle Sam and the world. The Mills Brothers’ “Paper Doll” was No. 1 on Billboard, and Rudy Vallee and His Connecticut Yankees’ “As Time Goes By” was No. 11. (In case you wondered, I added No. 11 because it happens to be one of my favorites.) The U.S. population was 136,739,353, and unemployment was 1.9 percent (compared to 318,860,010 and 6.1 percent as of this writing). FDR’s Social Security aspect of the New Deal was meant to be a temporary fix, not permanent. The price of a stamp was three cents. Federal spending, most of it because of the war, was $78.56 Billion instead of today’s $3.8 Trillion (although at the inflation rate of 1,277.2 percent compared to 1943, federal spending then would have been $1.1 Trillion, but that’s still no excuse for either). The New York Yankees won the World Series, of course, 4-1 against the St. Louis Cardinals. FDR and Britain’s Winston Churchill held the Casablanca Conference, and the movie “Casablanca” with Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman, which was released the previous year, was still in theaters because there was nowhere else to see it. THAT ALONE SHOULD BLOW OUR MINDS! BTW (from the new invention that made Larry’s email possible), “Mrs. Miniver,” with Greer Garson and Walter Pidgeon, won the Oscar for Best Picture. Where have all the greats gone?

I should mention that Larry also has the distinction of being the first person to purchase a restored pipe online from my store, although I had sold five others in person to various associates. I’m afraid Larry might have gotten a wild hair somewhere, and ended up buying another. The rest of this blog is about the first buy, a straight large bowl Duca Carlo natural billiard by Savinelli, and how I cleaned it up.

THE PIPE RESTORATION

Photo 1

Photo 1

Photo 2

Photo 2

Photo 3

Photo 3

Photo 4

Photo 4

Photo 5 & 6

Photo 5 & 6

As can be seen from the photos above, this project posed almost textbook restoration issues to be overcome. First, although it was nowhere close to the dirtiest pipe I have ever cornered, it needed a good bath before I could really see what I had to do. Photo 3 shows the moderate ding and scorching on the rim, and a large amount of cake buildup in the bowl. It just doesn’t reveal the depth of the rim blackening or the incredible layers of cake and how thick they were in places. And so the rim and bowl were my main problems.

I give every pipe a quick-clean to make sure there are no truly serious interior problems with the stem’s bore or tenon and/or the bowl’s mortise or draught hole and then, in general, wait to clean and sterilize the inside of the pipe thoroughly until after I have at least reamed and sanded the chamber. This is probably the only general procedural step in every pipe restoration on which I choose to deviate from my mentor and friend, Chuck Richards. His perfectly sound idea is to clean the thing and be done with it, while I prefer to wait except as noted, although I know Chuck must give his finished work a final run-through with the stem cleaner anyway.

Therefore, after Rob’s patented Quick-and-Dirty Cleaning, in multiple senses of the description, I turned to the rim, which I had already scrubbed with purified water to a dull, dark and negligibly different appearance, and gave the task my absolute all with several grades of micromesh, working my way lower in number and only higher in bodily and mental temperature. Determined not to spend my night on the rim, I found a nice small piece of 400-grit sandpaper that worked wonders in moments. With a bit more elbow grease and attention to the exact location of the smaller but still present ding, I was able to remove the blight and finish up with a hand-buffing using 1800 micromesh, if I recall correctly.

Photo 7

Photo 7

With my micromesh kit handy, I flipped the bowl over (see Photo 4) to check out the little pit I noticed as I cleaned the briar. This time, with both Chuck’s and Steve’s repeated advice, in the echoes of my mind, to take it easy on the sanding, and Steve’s specific mention of 1500 micromesh in an email full of good constructive criticism (which I always appreciate because it seems to come to me more often in negative forms), I found my little Platte River box and dug out that exact numbered piece of paper. Careful again to apply the slow, even pressure of the grit only to the small hole in the wood with the 1500 curled around an index finger, it ended up looking much better.
Photo 8

Photo 8

After that, noticing what I was beginning to think must be my tell-tale scratch signature, I switched to 3200 and wiped until it had a nice shine. I used only the 3200 on other isolated parts of the bowl with almost microscopic scratches and other flaws, then wiped it all clean with a cotton rag.

In the event of any possible unevenness in the upper diameter of the bowl as a result of the reaming I contemplated to remove the years of staggered caking, like narrow ledges on the face of a mountain – with the peak being, as it should on a mountain but not in the bowl of any pipe, the smallest part – I put aside my plans to re-stain the rim. Instead I took my Senior Pipe Reamer from its box and had trouble finding a setting to insert it. Getting it all the way in and starting at the base being impossible, I began at the peak and slowly cranked away until the blades slipped lower. In that fashion I bored a path down to the bottom of the chasm, which resembled the inside of a volcano, crusted and jagged. Altogether this phase was accomplished in four or five small steps.

Along the way, I dumped out the loosening carbon into a growing mound that reached almost an inch high in the initial descent. Then I commenced the reaming proper, so to speak, turning the blades at an angle favoring the top of the bowl, and broke new ground there, where I actually reached bare briar for about three-eighths of an inch down the slope. In this fashion, I made several more slow descents before the interior was more or less convex, though still very rough. The only remaining wide fissure was at the very bottom of the bowl, which I determined to eliminate with sanding by hand until I achieved an overall smoothness that would be even with the bottom, with which I could then deal.
I started with 150-grit paper and made a surprisingly brief, easy time of it. After dumping more carbon, I stuck a small square of cotton over a finger and used it to wipe the inside of the bowl roughly to clear it of more soot. Switching to 400-grit paper, I used the only appropriate finger to finish the job, with the satisfying result of a bowl that was as smooth as obsidian and, except for the clean briar at the top, appeared to be pre-smoked. The final pile of carbon was higher than two inches, which is truly amazing given that the actual bowl interior was 7/8×1-1/2”.

I knew the time had come to clean the pipe, which proved to be unusually easy. All I needed was a few pipe cleaners, the alcohol and about 20 minutes. I deduced that whoever smoked the pipe for so long and with such disregard for upkeep of the bowl at least disliked the wet, acrid dottle backwash he must have generated to use pipe cleaners on the stem and shank fairly often.

With the end of the project in sight, I felt a surge of motivation to finish, but not in a rush. I just wasn’t about to stop at that point, if that makes sense. And so I reached for my brown boot stain. With the applicator brush dipped at one end into the liquid and then wiped as dry as possible on the rim of the bottle, I ran it twice with care around the pipe’s dull but smooth rim and immediately fired it gently with my lighter. Setting it aside for a few minutes to cool off, I then returned to my micromesh box and removed the darkened, dried excess stain with my 3200 paper using soft, even strokes. The final color was a perfect match.

I rubbed the entire pipe and stem separately with my cotton cloth and gave both an evil eye inspection, with my magnifier glasses on, of course. The bowl was ready, but one look at the stem almost stopped my heart. I had forgotten it completely! However, I was in luck, as there were no dings or chatter to fix, so all I needed to do was micromesh it. (See photos 3 and 4.) I chose 800 for one run, then 3200 for the other. In a few minutes, both parts were ready for buffing.

Red Tripoli followed by a good rub with a cotton rag and then White Diamond worked for the stem. The bowl I buffed with white Tripoli, White Diamond and carnauba.

Photo 9

Photo 9

Photo 10

Photo 10

Photo 11

Photo 11

Photo 12

Photo 12

Photo 13

Photo 13

Photo 14

Photo 14

CONCLUSION
The 1940s and ’50s, and into the ’60s, were the heyday of pipesmoking. Most young men at least experimented with them, and I remember my early boyhood when my father and nearly every friend of his, including many doctors, were devotees of the relaxing enjoyment of the magical, mostly briar personal and social tool that was as ubiquitous as cocktails at lunch and after work. My father, for one, believed in caring for all of his tools and keeping them in their proper places, whether it was in the garage, his home office space or the large walk-in closets he shared with my mother. The closets, I remember, were where he stored his boxes of pipes, high on the upper shelves like a gun, where I could not get to them.

Ironically, I played a key part in his abandoning the enjoyment of his pipes. Swept up by the foolishness of my sisters and mother, who all had heads full of the initial hysteria created by the Surgeon General’s warnings on all cigarette packages and in ads, and thereby harped on him to quit smoking “so you won’t get cancer,” and being only a lad of seven or younger, I gave in and joined them. In the end, my father succumbed to the incessant nagging from all of us and quit for good.

Now 81 and not likely to take up the old pleasure again, he has not talked to me for about 14 years, after a 15-year lapse, when I tracked down his phone number from his best friend, who was a medical doctor he met in college and lived on a different island in Hawaii. The purpose of the call was to follow up on a telegram I sent my father and his new wife, the wedding of whom I learned literally at the last minute the day of the ceremony. I paid for hand-delivery, which I learned in the conversation we had that was short and cordial they received and appreciated. Not that my role in his giving up one of his main pleasures in life was in any way part of the official reason for the gulf that came to divide us (which excuse I still do not understand), I’m sure my father, being the kind of man he is, never forgot.

At any rate, as my father would say to change a subject, the Surgeon General’s warning would seem to coincide with the decline of smoking in general and the pipe in particular. I could only guess how many times I’ve had my pipe with me in public and been stopped by strangers who almost invariably comment that my pipe and the pleasant aroma of its tobacco remind them of their father or grandfather. Fortunately, I’m long past the initial sting. After all, most of the time I could be either.

I will end with one story of Larry’s from his two years of service in Europe during World War II. This needs a little set up, naturally. Assigned at first to the Manhattan Project (which developed the atom bomb, for those who don’t know), Larry was without explanation transferred to the European Theater – a marvelous euphemism up with which only the military could come. As it turned out, the latent engineering talent with which Larry appears to have been born led the powers that were in the old War Department to conclude that Larry’s understanding of the Bomb and ability to speak pidgin German made him the perfect candidate to question or interrogate German scientists, depending on whether they fled on their own or were captured, as to their knowledge of the Fatherland’s own plans for a similar weapon of mass destruction.

At any rate, Larry’s day job, so to speak, in the Corps of Engineers mostly involved setting up Bailey Bridges, which could be assembled quickly with pre-made parts and engineer-soldiers using only wrenches. Conceived by a British civil servant named Donald Bailey while being driven home after watching another conventional bridge being blown up by enemy bombers, the Bailey Bridge proved to be a highly effective weapon to allow the rapid construction of means to transport troops and heavy vehicles including tanks across rivers anywhere.(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PcoozadA6A.)

Larry recalls his part helping to assemble these bridges, which not only are easy and fast to put together but last as long as most of their regular counterparts. In fact, many of the Baileys constructed in Europe during the war are still there. During a trip to France with his wife many years later, Larry decided to track down at least one of the bridges he helped to make. After hours of driving around the French countryside, he found what he was looking for but was horrified by what the locals had done to it.

“They painted it an awful shade of pink!” he exclaimed. “No Bailey should ever be painted pink! They should be left the way they were built.”

Indeed.

Rebuilding a Dr. Grabow Regal Adjustomatic Patent Billiard


One of the few pipes with a stem included in my gift box of bowls was a nice little Dr. Grabow Billiard. It had a long stem that clearly fit the shank of the pipe and gave it an elegant look and feel. At first glance I figured this one would clean up quite easily. The varnish finish on the bowl was worn and spotty with pieces of the varnish coat peeling off the surface of the briar. The rim was coated with a thick layer of tars and oils but looked sound. The bowl had a thick cake particularly from mid bowl to the bottom of the bowl. It was very hard and was not crumbling at all. It had however, closed the bowl to a large degree. The mortise was part of the aluminum band on the shank. It was a threaded cast piece that was fitted against the briar and was oxidized. The internals were quite clean. The bowl was stamped on the left side: REGAL over Dr. Grabow. On the right side it was stamped Imported Briar over Adjustomatic over PAT. 2461905. I have written about the patent on the Adjustomatic tenon/stem in an earlier post on rebornpipes: https://rebornpipes.com/tag/dr-grabow-adjustomatic/ I included patent information and diagrams on that page so I will not repeat that material in this post. The stem had thick calcification on the top and bottom sides of the stem and looked like it had one time sported a softie bit. When I turned the stem over there was a large hole in the underside from the button forward. IMG_1924 IMG_1925 IMG_1926 IMG_1927 I wiped down the bowl with acetone on a cotton pad to remove the damaged varnish and prepare the bowl for possible restaining once the rim had been cleaned off. It took some scrubbing but I was able to get rid of the varnish from the surface and out of the grooves in the carved leaves on both sides of the bowl. It turned out that underneath the peeling varnish there was some very nice grain on the pipe. The top and bottom of the shank and the front and back of the bowl were really nice cross grain. There was a small nick in the back of the bowl near the top of the rim that had a small fill otherwise the briar was flawless. The sides were very nice birdseye grain. This was going to be a stunning pipe once it was finished. IMG_1928 IMG_1929 IMG_1930 I wiped down the buildup on the rim and was unable to even dent the hard tar. I lightly topped the bowl on a topping board to take of the buildup and not affect the rim itself. I carefully removed the tars, checking every move across the sandpaper to make sure that I was not damaging the surface of the rim. IMG_1931 IMG_1932 Once I had cut through the buildup the briar was in very good shape. I used a PipNet reamer with the smallest cutting head to remove the carbon cake in the bowl. Even the smallest head was hard to turn against the rock hard cake of this bowl. I carefully worked it back and forth, being careful not to tip the cutting head to either side and lose the roundness of the bowl. Once I had gotten the head in as far as possible I used a pen knife to work on the bottom portion of the bowl and then reworked the reamer in that area. IMG_1933 I decided to try to patch the hole in the stem. I cleaned hole and put Vaseline on a pipe cleaner. I inserted it in the airway then sprayed accelerator on the stem, put black superglue on the hole and let it sit. The hole was quite large and I was not sure that the repair would hold. I applied the glue in several layers building up the patch until it was quite thick. I sprayed it with the accelerator each time to speed the drying time. IMG_1934 IMG_1935 IMG_1936 I sanded the patched area with 150 and 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the patch and then reapplied more black super glue and accelerator. IMG_1937 I set the stem aside and let it cure. In the morning I sanded the stem patch until it was smooth in the process my fingernail went through the stem above the patch. I explored the thickness of the stem up the stem and found that I could push through the airway quite a distance up the stem (Photo 1 below). After that fiasco I noticed that the patch was also quite unstable. I was able to push out the patch with my fingernail. The stem after patching and pushing through the repair is shown in Photo 2. IMG_1943 IMG_1944 At this point it was clear that a stem patch would not work on this stem. With the thinness of the vulcanite extending up the stem about an inch it was not clear how far that would go. I was going to need to do something different. I cut off the stem with a Dremel and sanding drum. IMG_1945 IMG_1946 After cutting it off I could see the problem – airway was drilled very high in the stem. There was no room for cutting a new button on the stem and opening up the slot. The top of the stem was thin for another inch toward the tenon. I had to come up with something very different to address this issue. IMG_1947 I had an old Kaywoodie stem in my can of stems that was about the same diameter as the damaged one. It was missing the club logo in the side of the stem but had a club shaped hole. I heated the stinger on the KW stem with a lighter and then was able to remove it with a pair of needle nose pliers. IMG_1948 I also heated the Grabow stem with the lighter and worked on it with the pliers. It came out slowly. I finally screwed it into the bowl and turned it until the stem came off. I then unscrewed the tenon from the bowl. I tried it in the KW stem and it was just a little bit bigger than the hole in the stem. I would need to drill it one size larger to get a fit. IMG_1949 I used my cordless drill to drill it out. It had to be slightly larger and slightly deeper than the KW stinger apparatus. To make room for the lip on the aluminum piece I used a sharp knife to bevel the inner edge of the hole to accommodate the lip. IMG_1950 IMG_1951 The Grabow tenon/adjustomatic apparatus fit in the shank and I pressed it into place to see if the fit was correct. I then removed it and used a white all purpose glue to hold it in place. There was a removable stinger end for the tenon so I reinserted that in place and the new insert was ready. IMG_1952 IMG_1953 The fit of the stem against the shank was perfect. The diameter of the stem was slightly larger than the diameter of the shank so I would need to sand it to make them match. I tried to remove the Grabow insert from the old stem so that I could use it on the new stem. I tried to pick it out with a dental pick but was not able to remove it. IMG_1954 IMG_1955 I filled the club hole with black superglue and then sanded it smooth. I used 220 grit sandpaper to work on the diameter of the stem. I also sanded the end of the stem around the button to remove the tooth marks and chatter. IMG_1956 The next series of four photos show the stem after all of the sanding and shaping. The new stem looked quite good with the bowl. The fit was perfect and the lines and flow of the angles was exactly what I was looking for when I started. IMG_1957 IMG_1958 IMG_1959 IMG_1960 I sanded the stem with a medium and fine grit sanding sponge and then refilled the small holes around the patched club logo with more superglue. I sanded the patch down with 220 grit sandpaper and resanded it with the sanding sponges until it was smooth. The photo below shows the two stem side by side. IMG_1965 I sanded the stems with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12,000 grit pads. I rubbed it down with Obsidian Oil between each set of three grits of micromesh. I buffed the stem with White Diamond and then gave it a final coat of Obsidian Oil and set it aside to work on the bowl. IMG_1966 IMG_1967 IMG_1968 I buffed the bowl with White Diamond and carefully buffed around the stamping on the sides. I polished the aluminum shank band with the higher grades of micromesh pads and then a polishing cloth to remove the scratches and bring up the shine. The next series of four photos show the polished bowl before I worked on it with some 8000-12,000 grit micromesh pads. IMG_1938 IMG_1939 IMG_1940 IMG_1941 IMG_1942 I gave the bowl a wiped down coat of Danish Oil and walnut stain. I wanted to give the briar a shine coat but not add much colour to the finish. It really made the grain pop on this one. IMG_1961 IMG_1962 IMG_1963 IMG_1964 Once the oil had dried I buffed the bowl with White Diamond and then gave it several coats of carnauba wax. I buffed it with a soft flannel buff. I put the stem back in place and gave the bowl and stem several more coats of wax and buffed to a shine. The finished pipe is shown below. The look and feel of the pipe is like new. It is cleaned, restemmed, refinished and ready to fire up with its inaugural bowl of tobacco. It should last a long time and serve its owner well – whether I keep it or pass it on to another pipeman. (I decided to take these final photos on a piece of marble counter top to see if I could get a good contrast on the photos.) IMG_1970 IMG_1971 IMG_1972 IMG_1973

What is a Mountain Root Pipe with a Glasschaum Bowl?


Another of the gift bowls that I received was an apple-shaped bowl stamped Mountain Root on the left side of the shank and on the right side Glasschuam Bowl. The Glasschaum Bowl stamping had remnants of silver paint in the indentations. The finish was rough with many scratches in the briar. The shank internally was very black and tarry. The bowl inside was dirty with a thin build up of cake. The internal edge of the meerschaum lining was chipped in several places but there were no cracks in the bowl. IMG_1879 The Mountain Root stamping and the Glasschaum Bowl stamp were both new to me. I looked in “Who Made That Pipe” for the Mountain Root brand and found nothing with that stamping. PipePhil did not have it on his site either, so I looked further on the web and found several posts on the brand on the Grabow forum. The link is: http://drgrabows.myfreeforum.org/about4008.html&highlight=

At that site a pipeman had posted about a pipe he purchased on Ebay: “I purchased this “Mountain Root” pipe on Ebay. Right shank is stamped “Glasschaum Bowl” and the inside of the bowl is lined with something similar to how Yello-Boles are lined with a yellow colored coating. The stinger is wooden and the stem inlay is a white or faintly yellow ring on top of the stem similar to Yello-Bole stem rings of the ’40’s except for the color.”

My pipe bowl looked just as he described though I would have said it had a meerschaum like bowl insert rather than the yellow coating on the Yello-Bole pipes. It was significantly thicker than the yellow painted coating. Mine also came without a stem so there was no wooden stinger apparatus or yellow ring on the stem.

He went on to inquire if anyone could help him with information on the brand. He received quite a few helpful replies to his query. One that summarized the lot is included below.

“Mountain Root probably refers to Mountain Laurel. That was one alternative wood used in WWII for pipes, when briar was not available or in very short supply. The wood stinger also suggests that era.”

This coincided with what I was thinking in terms of the link to Mountain Laurel and the WWII era pipes. I was not alone in thinking that I was dealing with a pipe from that era made from Laurel. The confirmation of that was not 100% certain and the next details make me wonder about that. I looked up Glasschaum Bowl pipes online and found that Ben Leibowitz, an American pipe maker marketed the Glasschaum pipe in 1941 and quickly disappeared off the scene. This reference was also confirmed in Who Made That Pipe. If it was indeed a Liebowitz pipe it would have been stamped Glasschaum Pipe with no other stamping. This one however had the Mountain Root stamping as well and it led me to believe I was dealing with something other than an American made Leibowitz pipe. Further digging was necessary.

I often turn to EBay to see if I can find a particular brand of pipe for information when it does not show up other places. In looking through the various pipes on EBay that bore the Glasschaum Bowl stamping I found several that had the identical stamping on the right side of the shank. glasschaum 1 Some of them had Mountain Root (1st photo below) on the left side the same as the bowl I have, while others were stamped Gordon Deluxe in a Diamond on the left (2nd photo below). glasschaum 2 glasschaum 3 I looked in “Who Made That Pipe?”and found that Gordon pipes were made by Villard & Strauss as well as Dan Jacobs/Comoy’s/R. Jack & Sons and Samuel Gordon (1918), all in made in England. There was also confirmation that The Samuel Gordon pipes had Gordon in a diamond logo. The fact that these were English made pipes made me question the Mountain Laurel wood comment above. The bowl also did not look like the wood on other Mountain Laurel pipes that I have in my collection so I am not at all certain of the assessment.

The information I had found made me lean toward the maker of this pipe being Samuel Gordon a London pipemaker. That meant that the pipe was English made. I don’t have a clear idea of the date of the pipe but looking at others on EBay that had the same stamping of the Gordon Deluxe stamping my thinking is that the pipes came from the 40s or 50s.

I went through my can of stems and found one that fit well in the shank with minimal sanding. When I chose the stem I had not done the research on the brand and found that the stem had a light yellow O on the top of the stem and the one I chose had a brass O on the top. Such is the one of the happy coincidences of the repair. IMG_1877 IMG_1878 IMG_1880 IMG_1881 I lightly sanded the tenon of the stem until it fit snugly in the shank. I cleaned out the stem with alcohol and pipe cleaners before beginning the shaping. The diameter of the stem was larger than the diameter of the shank. I used a Dremel with a sanding drum to remove the majority of the excess vulcanite on the stem. I carefully do this with the stem in place and try to get as close as possible to the same diameter as the shank. I try not to nick the shank while I am working on it. IMG_1885 IMG_1886 IMG_1887 IMG_1888 I used a sharp pen knife/letter opener to scrape the inside of the bowl. I wanted to remove the carbon build up around the middle of the bowl particularly and also on the upper sides of the bowl. The bottom half and the bottom of the bowl were quite clean. IMG_1884 IMG_1883 After scraping the bowl clean the chips around the edges of the rim were visible. They were deeper on the back side of the bowl at about 5 and 7 o’clock. I needed to top the bowl to remove the damaged areas on the rim and bring the top closer to the edge of the meerschaum insert. I set up a topping board and 220 grit sandpaper and sanded down the rim. IMG_1882 IMG_1889 With topping of the rim done the chipped areas were very clear. I sanded the inside edge of the rim with a folded piece of sandpaper to smooth out the areas that were not chipped and to bank the inner edge slightly. With this done the repairs to the insert edge would be quite simple to do. IMG_1890 IMG_1891 Once I had the stem diameter close I took it back to the table and hand sanded it with 150 grit sandpaper until the angles and flow of the stem was also correct. I worked so that there was not a bulge or hip at the junction. I also sanded the button on the stem as it was very thick. I sloped it toward the end of the stem. When the fit and flow were close to what I wanted I removed the stem from the shank and sanded in long strokes from the tenon end to the button to smooth out potential scratches.

I put the stem back on and sanded with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the remaining excess and some of the heavier scratches. At this point I also sanded the shank of the pipe at the same time to make sure that the transition between the briar and the vulcanite was smooth and seamless. This took quite a bit of sanding. I did not want to remove too much briar as I did not want to change the look of the shank or the diameter of the shank. I was more concerned with getting the flow and lines smooth. I sanded it with a medium and a fine grit sanding sponge once I had the fit perfected. IMG_1892 IMG_1893 IMG_1894 I wiped the bowl down with acetone on cotton pads to remove the finish from the bowl and shank. I have found that this makes staining the rim and shank much easier to achieve and matching the stain is not a problem as it is all quite light. IMG_1895 IMG_1896 IMG_1897 IMG_1898 I wiped down the inside of the bowl edges with a wet cotton pad to remove loose particles of the liner and also any dust that was present from the sanding. I mixed a small batch of Plaster of Paris to work on the chipped edges of the insert. I mixed it into a thick mud consistency that was still wet but did not clump. I pressed into the chipped areas with the cuticle tool that I cleaned up. The curves on the spoon end are perfect for pressing the mud into the chipped areas of the bowl. The next two photos show the repaired area of the bowl insert. I purposely put the plaster on heavier than necessary and then shaped it with the spoon end of the tool. I set it aside to dry. IMG_1899 IMG_1900 When the plaster was dry to the touch I cleaned out the shank with cotton swabs, pipe cleaners and isopropyl alcohol. There was some paper stuck to the inside of the shank from what appeared to be a washer that some previous owner had used to hold the stem tightly in place. IMG_1901 I sanded the bowl and shank, carefully avoiding the stamping with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-3200 grit to smooth out some of the scratches that were on the surface of the briar. I wiped it down with alcohol on a cotton pad to remove the dust from the finish. Looking at the bowl in this unfinished state it is clear that this is a piece of briar and not a piece of Mountain Laurel. The birdseye and cross grain are quite nice. I cleaned up the top of the bowl and left the inside edge untouched at this point. I wanted the plaster to cure over night before I sanded it and cleaned it up on the inside. IMG_1902 IMG_1903 IMG_1904 The next series of three photos show the work I did on the repair to the edge of the insert. The first shows the repair after it dried over night. It was hard and quite thick. The second photo shows the area after I sanded it with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to smooth it out, bevel it slightly to match the rest of the rim edge and feather it into the surface of the bowl. The third photo shows it after the bowl has been wiped down with a damp cloth to clean up the dust from the sanding. The bright white areas are the repaired portions. After a few smokes this will blend in very well with the rest of the insert and will be unnoticeable. IMG_1905 IMG_1909 IMG_1911 I wiped the bowl and stem down with olive oil on a paper towel. I wipe it on and wipe it off again to give me a clear picture of areas of the bowl that still need work. It shows the scratches very clearly and also gives some colour and life to the bowl highlighting the natural grain. I am still undecided as to whether or not I will give it a coat of a light brown stain. IMG_1906 IMG_1907 IMG_1908 IMG_1910 I sanded the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12,000 grit pads. In between each set of three grits I wiped the stem down with Obsidian Oil and when dry continued sanding the stem. I buffed it with White Diamond and gave it a final wipe down with Obsidian Oil before setting it aside to work on the bowl. IMG_1912 IMG_1913 IMG_1914 I wiped down the bowl with alcohol on a cotton pad and then gave the bowl a light coat of Danish Oil and walnut stain. I wiped it on the bowl and then wiped it off and set it aside to dry over night. IMG_1915 IMG_1916 IMG_1917 IMG_1918 In the morning when it was dry I lightly buffed it with White Diamond on the wheel and then put the stem in place and repeated the buffing. I gave it several coats of carnauba wax and buffed it with a soft flannel buff. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. It is restored and ready to be smoked. It should last for many more years ahead and provide a typical meerschaum lined smoke for the pipeman who smokes it next. IMG_1919 IMG_1920 IMG_1921 IMG_1922 IMG_1923

Restoring a Dr. Grabow Meerschaum-Lined Stack


Blog by Steve Laug

Another of the bowls I was gifted was a tall Meerschaum lined rusticated stack with a smooth spot on both sides of the bowl and the end of the shank. It is stamped on the underside of the shank, MEERSCHAUM-LINED over Dr. Grabow. The bowl exterior had some darkening on the back side of the bowl and the grooves of the bowl were caked. The rim had damage and the meerschaum lining was rough on the inside edge of the bowl. There were cracks in the meerschaum bowl insert on the rim. The bowl itself was cracked and missing from about mid bowl to the bottom of the bowl. The meerschaum pieces were lying in the bottom of the bowl and there was no stem for the pipe.

I did not know anything about the meerschaum lined Dr. Grabows and this one had a distinct look of an Italian made pipe. I went to my source on line for Grabow information the Dr. Grabow Forum (http://drgrabows.myfreeforum.org/sutra238.php). There I found a post on the meerlined pipes. It read in part as follows… “Meerschaum lined pipes were originally imported from M. Gasparini in Italy for Grabow. Sparta finally figured out how to do them and only imported the “plugs”. Early Grabow Meerschaum lined pipes were stamped Italy with no spade. After 1989 Dr. Grabow got rid of Italy and added the spade.” So, my sense of it being Italian was correct. It also dates this pipe as pre-1989. IMG_1848 IMG_1849 IMG_1850 IMG_1851 I had an old stem in my can of stems that would be a good fit for this pipe. I needed to sand the tenon slightly to get a snug fit against the shank. The diameter of the stem was slightly larger than the diameter of the shank and would need to be sanded down to make a matched fit. IMG_1852 IMG_1853 I used a pen knife to clean up the inside of the bowl. There was carbon build up on the lower part of the bowl about mid bowl that was holding together the broken pieces of the meer lining. I scraped away the carbon and removed the broken pieces of meerschaum that remained on the lower edge of the bowl insert. IMG_1854 I topped the bowl with a topping board and 220 grit sandpaper to remove the damage to the rim and the lining top. IMG_1855 I did not remove much of the bowl top but took off enough to make the bowl top and the rim top flush and smooth. In the photo below the cracks in the bowl insert are visible around the top edge of the bowl. IMG_1856 I used clear superglue to fill the cracks on the top edge of the insert and sanded them down. I mixed a batch of plaster of Paris and used the dental pick, the cuticle tool that I was gifts and a pipe nail to build up the interior of the bowl and replace the bottom half of the insert that was missing. I inserted a pipe cleaner in the shank and then packed in the plaster around the airway and tamped it in place on the bottom with the pipe nail and on the sides with the cuticle tool. I used one of the stain pens that I have to stain the rim to match the bowl. IMG_1857 IMG_1858 IMG_1859 I inserted my damp index finger into the bowl and rubbed down the sides of the bowl to smooth them out. I also pushed the plaster on the bottom of the bowl to more thoroughly pack it in place. I sanded the stem with 150 grit sandpaper to reduce the diameter of the stem and then 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the stem. IMG_1860 I scrubbed the bowl down with acetone on a cotton pad to remove the finish and clean up the exterior of the bowl. I then rubbed it down with olive oil and let it soak into the finish. I also rubbed down the stem with the oil as I find that it makes sanding the stem easier to do. IMG_1861 IMG_1862 IMG_1863 IMG_1864 I sanded the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-3200 grit pads and dry sanding with 3600-12,000 grit pads. I wiped it down between each of the sets of three pads with Obsidian Oil. Once it was dry I buffed the stem with White Diamond and then with carnauba wax. IMG_1865 IMG_1866 IMG_1867 I put the stem back on the pipe and buffed it with White Diamond. I lightly buffed the bowl with carnauba wax and the stem more heavily. I finished by buffing the pipe with a soft flannel buffing pad to raise the shine. The finished pipe is shown below. The thin shank and the thin diameter of the stem give the pipe a delicate look. It is very light weight and fits well in the hand. I am going to let the plaster of Paris repair dry and cure for several days before I load a bowl and give it an inaugural smoke. IMG_1868 IMG_1869 IMG_1870 IMG_1871 IMG_1872 IMG_1873

UPDATE: I just smoked this one after it had cured for two days. I loaded a bowl of The Malthouse Founder’s Reserve in the bowl and smoked it to the bottom of the bowl. It smoked cool and dry. The plaster of Paris is darkening nicely and will soon match the rest of the meer lining of the bowl.
IMG_1874 IMG_1875 IMG_1876

Worn and Tired No Name Pot Given a New Look


The next pipe I decided to work on from the gift box was a no name pot shaped bowl without a stem. There was a stem in the box that fit well in the threaded metal shank. The problem with the stem was that it was worn out. There was a large dent on the top of the stem and a large hole in the underside of the stem that also had much damage around the hole. The stem was also over turned. The shape was unique in that the bowl had a slight cant to it. The finish was ruined and the grit and grime on the bowl was heavy. There were four fills using pink putty that stood out on the bowl left side, front and bottom. The rim was thickly tarred and oiled. The outer edge was damaged all the way around the bowl. The cake was quite thick and was crumbling at the bottom of the bowl. The shank was thick with tars as well. The aluminum was oxidized. IMG_1745 IMG_1746 IMG_1747 IMG_1748 I used a lighter and a heat gun to heat the metal tenon and was able to adjust the stem to a proper fit on the shank. It softened the glue and lined up nicely but when I heated the top side of the stem to try to raise the dent it bubbled even at a distance of three inches plus above the heat source. Yet another reason I don’t like nylon stems. IMG_1749 IMG_1750 IMG_1751 IMG_1757 Looking at it carefully after I had straightened it out I could see that the stem was really worn out and would be better used on a different pipe after it had been cut down. I heated the tenon once again and was able to remove the stem from the tenon. The tenon itself was threaded and screwed into the stem. I had a taper stem in my can of stems that had a broken tenon. I sanded the remainder of the broken tenon until it was smooth. Noname The new stem was the slightly longer than the original stem and it was vulcanite. I drilled out the airway until the metal tenon end fit the in the stem. I held the drill firmly and turned the stem onto the drill bit by hand. I used a tap to cut threads in the freshly drilled hole. IMG_1759 IMG_1761 I beveled the drilled hole to accommodate the lip on the threaded tenon so that it would sit flush with the face of the stem. I mixed a batch of two part quick dry epoxy and coated the threaded end of the tenon before threading it into the hole in the stem. IMG_1762 IMG_1763 I set the stem aside to let the epoxy cure and turned to work on the bowl. The bowl needed to be reamed so I used a PipNet reamer to do the work. I started with the smallest cutting head and continued until I used one the same size as the bowl of the pipe. I scrubbed out the shank and bowl with alcohol and pipe cleaners and cotton swabs until the shank and bowl were clean. IMG_1764 IMG_1765 I set up my topping board and a piece of 220 grit sandpaper and topped the bowl to remove the out rim damage and sharpen the edges of the bowl. I folded a piece of sandpaper and sanded the outer edge once it had been topped. I smoothed out the rough edges until the damage was minimized. IMG_1766 IMG_1767 I used a dental pick to remove the pink putty fills. I cleaned the surface with acetone to remove the dust and the remaining putty in the holes after I had picked them out. IMG_1768 IMG_1769 IMG_1770 IMG_1771 I packed briar dust into the holes in the briar and then dripped super glue into the briar dust to mix with the dust and make a hard fill. I over filled the holes in the briar with the dust and glue so that when it shrunk as it dried it would not leave dips in the surface of the briar. IMG_1772 IMG_1773 IMG_1774 I sanded the filled areas with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the excess and smooth out the fill until it was even with the surface of the briar. I sanded it with a medium and a fine grit sanding sponge and a fine grit sanding block. The new fills were black instead of the bright pink that was previously used in the repairs. Once stained they would be less obvious in the surface of the bowl than the previous ones. IMG_1775 IMG_1776 IMG_1777 I stained the bowl with Danish Oil and walnut stain and set the bowl aside to dry. IMG_1778 IMG_1779 IMG_1780 IMG_1781 The next morning I checked the fit of the stem as the epoxy had plenty of time to set and cure. I sanded the stem to reduce the diameter at the shank. I used 150 grit sandpaper to remove the excess while repeatedly screwing it into the shank to check that I had removed enough but not too much. IMG_1782 IMG_1783 IMG_1784 IMG_1785 I sanded the stem further with 220 grit sandpaper to remove more of the excess and to also reduce the scratches left behind by the 150 grit paper. I polished the aluminum with a fine grit sanding sponge and removed the oxidation and the scratches. When I had finished sanding the fit of the stem was exactly what I wanted and it only needed to be polished with micromesh sanding pads. IMG_1786 IMG_1787 IMG_1789 IMG_1790 I wet sanded with 1500-2400 grit micromesh sanding pads and dry sanded with 3200-12,000 grit sanding pads. I rubbed the stem down with Obsidian Oil between each set of three grits. I buffed the stem with White Diamond to give it a final polish and then rubbed it down a final time with the Obsidian Oil. Once it was dry I hand buffed it and fit it on the pipe. IMG_1797 IMG_1798 IMG_1799 I buffed whole pipe with White Diamond and gave it several coats of carnauba wax to raise a shine. I wanted to protect and shine the bowl and stem. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. The new stem with the retrofitted metal tenon fit extremely well. I like the overall look of the pipe far better than the original look with the saddle stem. The pipe is ready to give many more years of service to the next pipeman whose rack it graces. The end of the stinger is removable so that the pipe can be smoked with or without the stinger. IMG_1800 IMG_1801 IMG_1803 IMG_1804

Giving New Life to a Kaywoodie Connoissuer Dublin Shape 45C


This is the third old-timer I received in my gift box from Jim. It is stamped Kaywoodie over Connoissuer on the left side of the shank and 45C on the right side near the bowl. It was in rough shape. The finish was gone and the bowl was almost black with grit and grime. There were places on the sides and bottom of the bowl that had black spots of a sticky, oily substance. The rim was heavily caked and damaged as well. There were rough outer edges on the rim on the back right side and the front as well. The bowl was badly caked and appeared to be out of round from reaming with a knife. The stem was in pretty decent shape however. There was a buildup of calcium on the end of the stem about ½ inch from the button forward but there was only minimal tooth chatter and no deep bite marks. The stem even fit correctly and was not over turned in the shank.IMG_1710 IMG_1711 IMG_1712 IMG_1713 IMG_1714 I looked up an old Kaywoodie shape chart to make sure the shape number 45C was indeed a Dublin, in fact a Large Dublin. I found it in the second column, third entry down that column in the chart below. I think that the name is quite relative as the size is not that large and would easily be a group 3 sized bowl in Dunhill terms. I also found that the Connoisseur line was the top of the line (at least in this chart of pipes). Read the notes on the bottom of the page, the last line that shows a price of $27.50 – the highest priced KW on this chart. Kaywoodie_shapes70_71 When I removed the stem the stinger was black with buildup but was not damaged. It only had two holes in it, a flattened head rather than a ball and a space on the top of the stinger where the air went through. This was obviously a pre-Drinkless stinger. IMG_1715 I reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer and used a dental pick to clean out some of the scale around the edges of the airway. IMG_1716 IMG_1717 I started with the smallest reaming head and worked up to one approximately the size of the bowl. I wanted to try to minimize the rim damage and bring the bowl back to as close to round as possible with the reamer. IMG_1718 The amount of damage to the edges of the outer rim and the broken spots on the inner rim required that I top the bowl. I set up a topping board and 220 grit sandpaper and sanded the top of the bowl. I press the bowl into the sandpaper, taking care to keep the rim flat against the board so as not to slant the top of the bowl. I worked it until the top was clean and the outer edge was sharp once again. The second photo shows the topped rim and the damage down to the roundness of the bowl inner edge. It was going to take some work to work this back to round as much as possible. IMG_1719 IMG_1720 I sanded the inner edge with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to even it out and give it more of a round shape once again. I wiped the bowl down with acetone on cotton balls to remove the grime on the finish. I decided against using the oil soap this time around as the finish was basically gone any way so the acetone would make short work of removing the finish. I scrubbed it longer and harder than I expected to remove the grime. The next series of photos show the bowl after scrubbing. There was some nice grain under the blackness. IMG_1721 IMG_1722 IMG_1723 I sanded the bowl and the stem with 220 grit sandpaper and also with a medium and fine grit sanding sponge and fine grit sanding block to further clean things up on the surface of the bowl and stem. IMG_1724 IMG_1725 IMG_1726 The photo below shows the bowl after the work on the inner edge of the rim. It certainly has come a long way from the beat up inner edge pictured above. IMG_1727 IMG_1728 I dropped the bowl into the alcohol bath to soak out some more of the grime from the briar. I turned my attention to the stem. I cleaned up the stinger with alcohol, pipe cleaners and cotton balls until the aluminum shined once again. I continued to sand the stem with the medium and fine grit sanding sponges to remove the surface scratching. I cleaned out the area around the slot with a dental pick and finally after many pipe cleaners was satisfied with the cleanness of the internals of the stem. IMG_1729 I sanded the stems with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12,000 grit pads. I rubbed the stems down with Obsidian Oil between each set of three pads. I buffed the stem with White Diamond and polished it with a coat of carnauba wax to raise a shine. IMG_8249 IMG_8250 IMG_8252 I took the bowl out of the alcohol bath and dried it off with a cotton cloth. I sanded it lightly with a fine grit sanding sponge to remove the last of the grit and grime softened by the bath. The bowl is shown in the photo below. It is cleaned and ready for staining. IMG_8253 There were two areas that were dark on the bowl – the left side midbowl toward the front and the right side midbowl toward the back. I cleaned and stained the bowl with some Danish Oil and walnut stain and in the dark spots two small minor cracks showed up. At this point the cracks are not visible in the inside walls of the bowl. They may well be there and not seen in the darkening of the interior walls. Once the oil dried I exposed the two cracks with a dental pick to make them accessible. I then used superglue and briar dust to repair the cracks. I overfilled them with the glue and briar dust to ensure that the repair is solid and would have no pits in the surface once I sanded them. I sanded the repairs with a well used piece of 220 grit sandpaper and followed that with a fine grit sanding sponge and 1500-2400 micromesh sanding pads.IMG_1730 IMG_1731 I wiped the sanded bowl down and then gave it a coat of Danish Oil with Walnut stain to touch up the repairs and the entire bowl. IMG_1732 IMG_1733 IMG_1735 IMG_1734
When the pipe was dry I buffed it with White Diamond and polished the bowl and stem. I gave it multiple coats of carnauba wax to protect and give it a shine. I buffed it with a soft flannel buff. The pipe is finished. It has come a long way from the pipe that I started with when I took it from the box. The repairs, though visible look pretty good. I expect them to hold for a long time and provide a quality smoke in an old Kaywoodie for whoever ends up with this old pipe. It is cleaned and ready for the next pipeman. IMG_1741 IMG_1742 IMG_1743 IMG_1744

Restoring an Old BBK Hunter Pipe


In the box of pipe bowls that I received was a complete sitter with a silver shank band and windcap. Upon looking at the side of the bowl I could see that it was stamped Swiss Made and on the side of the shank it was stamped BBK. The finish was sandblasted and well done. The stain was either a dark brown or a black. The cap was in good shape. Under the cap the silver rim trim was also blackened and tarry. The end cap/band on the shank was also silver and quite nice. Inside the cap was blackened and the bowl was caked with a crumbly aromatic smelling cake. The inside of the shank was black with tars and oils and the stem was very tight in the shank. The stem was clean of tooth marks and dents but was badly oxidized. On the front of the bowl was a carved/pressed stag climbing the bowl. There were nails holding the top rim cap and the stag emblem on the briar. On the back of the rim cap was a small silver ring where a chain had obviously been sometime along the way. It was missing as was the place on the stem where it attached to the stem. I have seen these before on German-made pipes as a means of keeping the stem and bowl together.
IMG_8233 IMG_8234 IMG_8236 IMG_8237 IMG_8238
I have cleaned up several BBK pipes over the years. The last one was a square shank panel billiard that I have written about previously on the blog https://rebornpipes.com/2012/09/21/refurb-on-a-bbk-panel-billiard-swiss-made/. I had never done much research on the maker or the meaning of the BBK initials. I knew that it was a Swiss made brand as the shanks of all the pipes I had cleaned up and restored were stamped with that moniker. I did not however have any idea of the history of the brand. This time I decided to do a bit of digging and see what I could find out about the pipemaker. IMG_8245 I checked one of my usual sources of information, Pipedia and found that there was actually quite a bit of helpful information to be found there. http://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Bru-Bu. I have copied, edited and summarized that material below. I find the information quite fascinating to read and gives me more appreciation for the pipes themselves.

“Josef Brunner, oldest son of the farmer Konstantin Brunner from the hamlet Nieder-Huggerwald, belonging to the community of Kleinlützel (Canton Solothurn), was sent in 1871 to a pipe turner in Winkel/Alsace for his apprenticeship. As was usual at that time, Brunner wandered as a journeyman after ending the apprenticeship. Eventually, he went to Saint-Claude, France which was then the world’s stronghold of briar pipe manufacturing. There, Brunner was able to increase and deepen his knowledge in the field of industrial pipe making. When he returned home in 1878, he installed a small turner’s workshop in the house of his father. With the energetic support of his two younger brothers, he began to produce tobacco pipes of his own calculation, taking them to the markets in the surrounding area. In 1893, Bernhard Brunner’s wife inherited the mill in Kleinlützel. At this point, the pipe fabrication was transferred to an annex belonging to the mill. Now it was possible to drive the machines by water power – an important relief to the workers and a considerable innovation compared to the previous pedal-driven system.

On the Pipedia site they also had some photos of a catalogue from BBK that was interesting. They note that it was an early catalog and came to them courtesy of Guido Brunner, Josef Brunner’s grandson.” Unbenannt Unbenannt2 Unbenannt3

Also on the Pipedia site was a photo of a pipe that was very similar to the one I have but obviously older. The stem on mine is not horn but is rather a hand cut vulcanite that makes it much newer in age than the one below. However the shank cap, the rim cap, the Double Deckel wind cap (pictured on the last page of the above catalogue are the same. The one I have is also missing the chain from the cap to the stem but the finish and everything else about the pipe below is parallel to the one I worked on. It was interesting to see how they attached the chain to the stem. That gave me an idea on how to attach a new chain to the one that I have. The stem on this one however made me question whether the one that I had was an original or some newer replacement stem. More digging would be required to know whether my stem was original or not. BBK_9 A bit more digging revealed one for sale on EBay that had the exact same stem as the one I have. It also was missing the chain and the shape and top cap was slightly different but the stem was identical. Now I knew that the one I had was at least original. BBK Further information was found on the Pipedia site that spoke of the growth of the company. “The production was boosted, and business developed pleasantly. A new factory building was realized by 1896. Corresponding to another demand, a department producing walking sticks was added in 1900. The pipes from Kleinlützel were well appreciated and received many awards, e.g., a gold medal for outstanding craftsmanship at the National Swiss Fair in Bern in 1914.

The business developed so well after the turn of the century that even a lack of workers in Kleinlützel occurred. The problem was solved by founding a subsidiary company in the small nearby town Laufen an der Birs in the Canton of Bern. This plant didn’t exist too long. The disastrous economic crisis in the 1920’s and early 1930’s forced the Brunner family to restrict the fabrication of pipes dramatically. In addition the big French pipe factories in Saint-Claude – although suffering from the same circumstances – flooded the Swiss market with pipes at prices that couldn’t be matched by Swiss producers. By 1931 ca. 150 of 180 Brunner employees had been sacked – the rest remained in Kleinlützel, where the cheap electric energy ensured a meager survival.

In 1932, Mr. Buhofer joined the Brunner family. The company was named Brunner-Buhofer-Kompagnie, and, shortly thereafter, Bru-Bu. Buhofer had made his fortune in the United States but, homesick, returned to Switzerland to search for a new challenge.

Bru-Bu’s fabrication program was expanded with many handcrafted wooden art articles: carved family coats of arms, bread plates, fruit scarves, and – more and more – souvenir articles for the expanding Swiss tourism industry. Pipes remained in the program continuously, but the offerings changed from traditional Swiss pipes to the more standard European shaped pipes. Bru Bu is widely known as BBK.”

One further point of interest to me was found in the last paragraph of the Pipedia article linking BBK pipes to Former Nielsen. I have two of Former’s pipes so this stood out to me.

“At some point in the late 1970’s, Bru-Bu went out of business. Some of the Brunners, as far as known, continued as timber traders. But in 1986 new life filled the old Bru-Bu pipe workshop, when Dr. Horst Wiethüchter and “Former” Nielsen started to produce the high-grade Bentley pipes there.”

I am not sure why it works this way but once I have some background information on a pipe I move into cleaning and restoring it with more gusto. It seems to energize me knowing a little about the company or individual who carved the pipe I am working on at the moment. I took the next two photos show the inside of the lid and the front of the bowl before I started cleaning up the pipe. The tars and oils on the inside of the lid were rock hard did not come off with scrubbing with alcohol or oil soap. Instead it would take more work to remove it. IMG_1685 IMG_1686 I reamed the pipe with a PipNet reamer (also Swiss Made by the way) to remove the cake buildup around the inside of the rim. Once the bowl was clean and smooth I wiped it out with cotton swabs and isopropyl alcohol. IMG_1690 IMG_1691 I scrubbed the briar with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap and then wiped it off with a cotton pad. The finish was in great shape under the grime and once polished with a soft cloth and Halcyon II wax it had a rich glow to the sandblast. I wiped down the silver with a silver polishing cloth and the tarnish on the rim cap, the shank cap, wind cap and stag emblem came off very easily and the silver shone. IMG_1692 IMG_1694 IMG_1693 I scrubbed the inside of the windcap and the rim with 0000 steel wool to remove the tars and oils that had hardened on the surface of the caps and the inside of the windcap. It came off easily and then I polished with the silver polishing cloth. IMG_1695 I cleaned out the inside of the shank with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and isopropyl alcohol. The tars that came out of the shank were black and thick. It took quite a few swabs before the shank and sump area were clean and the cotton was still white after I ran it through the shank. IMG_1696

IMG_1697 The stem had been soaking in Oxy Clean while I worked on the bowl. I removed it from the bath and dried it off. The oxidation had softened significantly and I was able to see the black of the vulcanite show through the brown oxidation. IMG_1698 I scrubbed the stem with Meguiar’s Scratch X2.0 and once dry wiped it off to see how much more of the oxidation had been removed. The second photo shows the stem after I had wiped off the polish. There was still a lot of work to do on this stem. IMG_1699 IMG_1700 I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper and then with medium and fine grit sanding sponges to remove more of the surface oxidation. It took some careful sanding but the oxidation was finally coming off and the stem was moving toward the place where I would sand it with micromesh sanding pads. IMG_1701 I buffed the stem with red Tripoli and White Diamond before sanding with the micromesh pads. I wet sanded with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanded with 3200-12,000 grit pads. I rubbed the stem down with Obsidian Oil between each set of three pads. I buffed the stem with White Diamond and then rubbed it down with Obsidian Oil one last time. I buffed it with carnauba wax and then a soft flannel buffing pad to raise the shine. IMG_1702 IMG_1703 IMG_1704 I gave the silver caps a final polish with the silver polishing cloth, buffed the pipe by hand with a shoe brush and then took the final photos below. The finished pipe is ready to load a bowl and fire up its inaugural smoke. I still have to do a hunt for a piece of chain to connect the cap to the stem and make a strap or connector to hold it to the stem. IMG_1705 IMG_1706 IMG_1707 IMG_1708 IMG_1709