Daily Archives: August 18, 2020

Beautification for an American Made Bertram Washington DC Grade 30 Zulu


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the work table came to me from one of our estate purchases. Between us we pick up quite a few pipes for restoration. I try to work them into the restoration queue so that I can keep them moving. We picked up over 120 Bertram pipes from an estate that a fellow on the east coast of the US was selling. This next one is from that estate – a beautifully grained Zulu Grade 30 Bertram with a tapered vulcanite stem. The pipe is stamped on the left side side near the bowl with the Grade 30 number. On the top side it is stamped Bertrams [over] Washington D.C. centered on the shank. The finish had a lot of grime ground into the smooth finish on the bowl and some darkening around the sides of the bowl. The bowl was caked with an overflowing lava coat on the top of the rim, heavier toward the back of the bowl. The edges looked okay other than some potential burn damage on the back inner edge. The stem was lightly oxidized, dirty and had light tooth chatter and marks on the top and underside near the button. There were not markings or a logo on the taper stem. Like the rest of the Bertrams in this lot the pipe had promise but it was very dirty. Jeff took photos of the pipe before he started his cleanup work. He took photos of the rim top and bowl to give a clear picture of the thickness of the cake and the lava on the rim top. The lava was thicker toward the back of the rim and there were remnants of tobacco on the walls of the thickly caked bowl. He also took photos of the top and underside of the stem to show the chatter and tooth marks. Otherwise the stem is quite clean. Jeff took photos of the sides and heel of the bowl to give a picture of what the briar around the pipe looked like. There is some stunning grain under the grime.   He took photos of the stamping on the top and underside of the shank. It reads as noted above and is clear and readable. The grade number is 30.     As I have worked on Bertrams I have written on the brand and have included the following information. If you have read it in past blogs, you can skip over it. If you have not, I have included the link to Bertram history and information. I would recommend that if you don’t know much about them take some time to read the background. I include a link to the write up on Pipedia (http://pipedia.org/wiki/Bertram). Bertram pipes were based out of Washington DC. They were popular among famous politicians and celebrities of the time. They made many products for them from FDR’s cigarette holders to Joseph Stalin’s favorite pipe. They were considered some of the best America had to offer till they finally closed their doors in the 70s. Bertram graded their pipes by 10s and sometimes with a 5 added (15, 25, 55 etc.), the higher the grade the better. Above 60s are uncommon and 80-90s are quite rare. I have worked on one 120 Grade billiard. I have several blogs that I have written on rebornpipes that give some history and background to Bertram pipes. (https://rebornpipes.com/2015/06/16/an-easy-restoration-of-a-bertram-grade-60-217-poker/).

I have included the following link to give a bit of historical information on the pipe company. It is a well written article that gives a glimpse of the heart of the company. http://www.streetsofwashington.com/2012/01/bertrams-pipe-shop-on-14th-street.html#

From this information I learned that all of these Bertrams were made before the closure of the shop in the 1970s. This Bertram Zulu has a stunning a mix of grain around the bowl. This pipe has a 30 Grade stamp on it which I am sure explains the quality of the briar. There are a few small fills in the shank. But like many of these Bertrams the Grading system is a mystery to me.

Jeff had cleaned up the pipe with his usual penchant for thoroughness. He reamed the pipe with a PipNet Pipe Reamer and cleaned up the remnants with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife.  He scrubbed the bowl with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap with a tooth brush. He rinsed it under running warm water to remove the soap and grime. He cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and pipe cleaners. He soaked the stem in Before & After Deoxidizer and rinsed it off with warm water. I took photos of the pipe once I received it. The rim top looked very good. The inner edge of the rim had some damage on the back side and there was darkening on the top of the rim at the back. The stem surface looked very good with a few small tooth marks and chatter on both sides near the button.   I took photos of the stamping on the shank. The Bertram Washington DC is on the topside mid shank. On the left side of the shank it is stamped with the Grade 30 number.  I removed the stem and took a photo of the pipe to give a sense of the whole. The stem is tapered and narrow.I started my work on the pipe by reworking the inside edge of the bowl to clean up the burn damage on the back of the bowl with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper.Now it was time to do my work on the pipe. I polished the bowl and the rim top, sides and shank with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads and wiping it down after each pad with a damp cloth.    I rubbed the bowl and shank down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the surface of the bowl sides and shank with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for a little while and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. I sanded out the tooth marks with 220 grit sandpaper and started polishing it with 400 grit wet dry sandpaper.    I set the bowl aside and turned to work on the stem. It was in very good condition so I polished the vulcanite stem with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with a damp cloth after each sanding pad. I used Before & After Pipe Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine to further polish the stem.   This Bertram Washington DC Grade 30 Zulu with a vulcanite taper stem is a great looking pipe now that it has been restored. I put the stem back on the bowl and carefully buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel using a light touch on the briar. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the buffing wheel and followed that by buffing the entire pipe with a clean buffing pad. I hand buffed the pipe with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished Bertram 30 Zulu fits nicely in the hand and feels great. Give the finished pipe a look in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 6 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ½ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. If you are interested in adding this pipe to your collection send me a message or an email. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I worked on it. There are many more to come!

Restoring a “Restored” Malaga Hand Made Ras Kassa Dublin


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the work table came to me as a trade for work on pipes from Alex. I have worked on quite a few of his pipes and this pipe was one that he bought and was disappointed with when it arrived (I will spell out the issues below). It is a beautifully grained Malaga Hand Made Ras Kassa Dublin that is really quite nice. The Ras Kassa is the top of the line for Malaga pipes and very few receive that premium stamping. The grain on this one is a mix of straight and flame grain around the bowl with some mixed grain as well. The stamping is the readable. It is stamped on the underside of the shank and reads the Malaga [over] Hand Made [over] Ras Kassa. The Malaga Oil finish had a coat of varnish on it that I really find irritating. To me it defeats the quality oil finish on these Malaga pipes. The bowl was clean however the inner edge of the bowl had a lot of damage and was out of round. The biggest issue thought was there appeared to have been a shank repair done where it met the bowl. There was a visible crack that was tight. The repair was well done but whoever sanded it left a dip over the crack which resulted in a hump on the top of the shank. It took a very flowing shank and ruined the geography and flow of it. The fancy turned Freehand stem was clean but there was still oxidation on the turned areas, in the creases of the button and even on the smooth surfaces. It was polished over the oxidation. I took a trade because I thought I might be able to improve on it. It was such a nice piece of briar and the shape was stellar. I wanted to give it a go! We shall see how it works. I took a couple of photos of the problem area. I have drawn a red box around it. The repaired crack is in the valley of the photos noted by a blue arrow in the pictures below. The hump is very noticeable in person and you can feel it when you run your finger over it. The crack is tightly repaired and sound so that is not an issue. It is the sanding of the valley above it that is the issue.I also took a photo of the rim top to show the damage to the inner edge of the bowl. I know many folks do not like to do any work on this but to me it makes a big difference in the finished pipe. You can see the darkening on the edge and the notches and nicks clearly in the photo. It is hard to see the oxidation on the rings on the stem and surface in the photos but it is present and annoying to me.    I took a photo of the stamping on the underside of the shank. While it is faint it is still very readable. I also took the stem off and took a photo of the bowl to try and capture the beauty of the pipe. Again the issue for me on it is the thick coat of varnish on the oil cured bowl masks the finish that was originally there.I am also including the link to a blog that I wrote that gives some of the history of the Malaga brand and the Malaga Pipe Shop in Royal Oak, Michigan in the USA. I have written an earlier blog to give a little history of the Malaga Brand and the pipemaker, George Khoubesser. Here is the link – https://rebornpipes.com/tag/malaga-pipes/. That blog also includes links to a catalogue and the history of the pipemaker George Khoubesser. Follow the link to get a feel for the brand and the pipemaker if it is new to you.

I started my work on the pipe by addressing the dip above the repaired crack and the hump on the shank top behind it. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the hump and transition to the dip. It did not take too much effort to remove the damage. I started the polishing of the area with 400 grit wet dry sandpaper. The photos below tell the story. To deal with the damage to the inner edge of the bowl I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper and smoothed out the edges and remove the burn and damaged areas. I was able to bring the bowl back to round. I polished it with some 400 grit wet dry sandpaper before using micromesh to polish the bowl.I wiped the bowl down with alcohol to remove the varnish coat and of course forgot to take a photo of that work. The varnish came off with some scrubbing and what was left was the oil cured Malaga briar. I polished the bowl and the rim top, sides and shank with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads and wiping it down after each pad with a damp cloth. I carefully avoided the stamping on the top and underside of the shank so as not to damage the already faint stamping.     I rubbed the bowl and shank down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the surface of the bowl sides, plateau top and shank end with my fingertips and a horse hair shoe brush to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for a little while and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. I scrubbed the stem surface with Soft Scrub All Purpose cleanser to remove the remaining oxidation. The oxidation was strongest in the twists and turns of the lower portion of the stem. It took quite a bit of elbow grease to remove the oxidation but when I was finished it looked very good.     I polished the vulcanite stem with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with a damp cloth after each sanding pad.   This beautiful Malaga Hand Made Ras Kassa with a fancy turned vulcanite stem is a great looking pipe now that it has been restored. The rich oil finish that Malaga used came alive with the polishing and waxing. The repair on the shank/bowl joint looks very good and the transition is smooth. I put the stem back on the bowl and carefully buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel using a light touch on the briar. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the buffing wheel and followed that by buffing the entire pipe with a clean buffing pad. I hand buffed the pipe with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished Malaga Ras Kassa is a beauty with the great grain and flowing lines. It fits nicely in the hand and looks very good. Give the finished pipe a look in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¾ inches, Chamber diameter: 7/8 of an inch. If you are interested in adding this pipe to your collection send me a message or an email. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I worked on it. There are many more to come!