Tag Archives: repairing fills in briar with clear super glue

On My Diversionary Pipe Hunt I Found this French Made Lotus Bent Billiard


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the table was second pipe I found on a recent trip to Alberta. I had a couple of hours to kill so I stopped at an antique mall along the way. The first was an Italian made cross grained Molina Bent Billiard that I already restored (https://rebornpipes.com/2023/09/27/took-a-diversionary-pipe-hunt-and-found-this-molina-81007-bent-billiard/). The second pipe I found was a French Made Bent Billiard. It was time to work on the second one now. On the left side of the shank it is stamped Lotus in script, underlined [over] Made in France. The pipe was in dirty condition. The finish on the bowl and shank were coated with a thick coat of grime and oils ground into the surface. There were many fills in the bowl sides, heel and the shank. The bowl had a thick cake that overflowed with a thick coat of lava on the rim top that obscured the inner and outer edges of the bowl. There appeared to be some damage on the front outer edge of the bowl. The black, hard rubber stem had an orific button and there was the beginning of a slot being shaped points to an older pipe. It was dirty and had tooth marks and chatter on both sides ahead of the button. There were small white paint spots on the shank and the stem. I took photos of the pipe before I started my clean up work on it to give a clear photo of the condition of the pipe before I started my work. I took a photo of the bowl and the rim top. The bowl had a thick cake that covered the bowl walls and bottom. The rim top and the bevelled inner edge of the bowl had a thick lava overflow. There appeared to be some damage on the front outer edge of the bowl. It was hard to know for sure what was underneath until it was cleaned. The hard rubber stem shows light tooth marks and chatter on both sides ahead of the button as mentioned above. There were paint spots on the stem top and sides. It had promise but it was dirty!I took a photo of the left shank side to try to capture the stamping on the briar. It is clear and readable as noted above. I removed the stem from the shank and took a photo of the parts to give a sense of the pipe’s proportions.I dropped a message to Kenneth Lieblich about the pipe because of his love of French Made Pipes and his work on gathering information on them. He wrote me back with the following helpful hint.

I think Lotus was a line of Delacour Brothers. Delacour closed around 1960, so if it’s one of their pipes, it must be older than that.

He wrote back with some more information as well:

Very little, but there’s a possible tidbit. There is a lighter company called Lotus, but I don’t think that’s related. However, my tidbit is a tobacco shop in Paris called “Le Lotus”. It’s been there for a while, but I haven’t yet figured out how long. That seems like a possibility, however tenuous. It’s also possible that it’s a second from one of the big French companies, but I don’t have a listing for it.

Also, there was a Lotus brand made by Delacour Bros. — that might be the most likely. The St Claude branch of Delacour, not the London branch.

I started by looking up the tobacco shop in Paris that Kenneth referred to “Le Lotus”. I found the shop in Paris and it looks to be an amazing shop with a huge selection of cigars. It is an old style tobacco shop and I suppose it could have some pipe tobacco but there were no photos showing any available. It is still a shop that I would love to visit one day that is for certain.

I agreed with Kenneth’s suggestion that the pipe is probably made by the St. Claude brandch of Delacour. I decided to do some digging to see if I could find information that definitively linked the Lotus pipe to Delacour.

I turned first to Pipephil to see what I could learn (http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-d4.html). It gave a brief history of the brand and link to both the French and British activities of the company. I have included a screen capture of the pertinent section and the comments from the side bar below. Delacour pipes were crafted in the St Claude (14 bis rue Carnot) factory. The brand was founded in the late 19th century by Alix Delacour and owned a subsidiary company in London. Their activities stopped in the late 1950s.

From there I turned to look up the brand on Pipedia (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Delacour). There was very little included in the article. In fact, it gave a very brief history and a link to the company website. I quote the article in its entirety below.

The Delacour factory was built around 1892 and expanded in 1893) in Saint-Claude, Jura, France, Rue Carnot 14 bis.

The owner was Alix Delacour. Already in 1909 the factory was further expanded. Delacour had their own briar drying facilities. In 1960, the pipe factory closed. (Brand name was probably taken over by Jeantet). The Delacour building harbored afterwards: an eye-wear company, dance school, restaurant, etc. There was not any direct mention of the Lotus brand in the material but the shape and the look of the pipe is much like the Delacour pipes. I am about 99% clear that the pipe is a Delacour pipe. Given that information it was time to work on the pipe itself.

I started my work by reaming the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer to remove the thick cake on the walls so I could see what they looked like. I used a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife to scrape off the remaining cake on the bowl walls. I followed that by sanding the walls of the bowl until they were smooth with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. The bowl walls showed no checking or cracking which is remarkable. I cleaned off the rim top and bevelled inner edge carefully, wet sanding the rim top with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper. It cleaned up quite well. I also gently topped the bowl with 220 grit sandpaper on a topping board to minimize the damage on the top and outer edge of the bowl. I scrubbed the bowl down with a tooth brush and some undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap to remove the grime and oils around the bowl and shank. I rinsed it down with warm water to remove the debris. I coloured in the fills with a Walnut stain pen then filled them in with a clear CA glue. There were nine fills around the bowl and also the rebuild of the damage on the front of the outer edge of the rim. I sanded the glue repairs to the fills with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper. I smooth them out so that the surface of the repairs was smooth and blended together. I touched up the repaired spots and the bevelled inner edge of the rim with a Walnut stain pen to prepare the bowl for restaining. I stained the bowl with Fiebing’s Cordovan aniline stain. I flamed it and repeated the process until I was happy with the coverage on the bowl.I wiped the bowl down with isopropyl alcohol on cotton pads to make the stain more transparent and still leave the repaired fills hidden. I worked on the finish around the rim top and bowl with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit sanding pads to dry sand the briar. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with a damp cloth after each sanding pads. I rubbed the bowl and shank down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the surface of the bowl sides and shank with my fingertips and a horsehair shoe brush. The product works to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for ten minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. It was at that moment I remembered I had not cleaned the shank and stem. I turned to work on that now. I cleaned out the airway and mortise in the shank and the airway in the stem. I used 99% isopropyl alcohol, pipe cleaners and cotton swabs to remove the tars and oils. It was extremely dirty and once cleaned smelled and looked better.I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. It was in decent condition with very light tooth marks. I polished the stem surface with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads and was able to remove the marks. I wiped it down Obsidian Oil on a cotton cloth. I finished my polishing with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra-Fine polishes. I wiped it down with a final coat of Obsidian Oil and set aside.I am excited to finish restoration of this Lotus Made in France Bent Billiard. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I hand buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with beautiful mixed grain all around it. I love the look of the polished grain on the pipe with the polished black hard rubber stem. It is a very beautiful looking pipe. This smooth Lotus Bent Billiard is great looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 4 ½ inches, Height: 1 ½ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inch, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 33 grams/1.16 ounces. It turned out to be a beautiful pipe. I will be putting it on the rebornpipes store in the French Pipemakers Section soon. If you are interested in adding it to your collection let me know. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I worked on it.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

Sometimes you come across something that just has to be restored!


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the table is a pipe that fits that. I remember when Jeff found it on one of his hunts in Utah. He called me and showed it to me on Facetime. It was one of those that we both just had to have. Not because it is a thing of beauty or a spectacular pipe by a well known pipe maker. It is not any of those things or even any number of other descriptions. It is just one that grabbed us and in our thinking deserved to be restored. It reminded us both of a Kirsten pipe. The square shank is made of Lucite and has a metal threaded nipple on the top that the bowl screws onto. The bowl is briar with a few fills around the sides and the base of the bowl. It has a brass threaded fitting in the bottom that screws onto the nipple. The shank tapers down into a vulcanite saddle stem with a regular push tenon. There was no clean out on the bowl end of the shank. It is a bit of an odd looking pipe but one that I understand the attraction. Can you imagine watching the smoke swirling up the clear shank while you smoke it? It must have been a fun pipe to smoke.

We purchased it from an antique mall in Utah earlier this year. The briar bowl is natural coloured that has developed some patina. The base/shank is clear Lucite that is stained with tobacco juices. It was stamped on the left side and read Abbey in an oval. It was in filthy condition when Jeff brought it to the table which to me means that it must have been a good smoking pipe. There was a thick cake in the bowl and lava and debris rim top and the inner edge of the bowl. The vulcanite stem was lightly oxidized and had light tooth marks and chatter on the top and underside on and near the button. Jeff took photos of the pipe before his cleanup work to give a picture of its condition.   Jeff took photos of the bowl, rim top and stem to show the general condition of the pipe. The bowl is heavily caked and the rim top and edges have a thick lava overflow on the beveled inner edge of the bowl and on the rim top. The stem has grime and tooth marks on the top and underside near the button.Jeff took some photos of the bowl sides and heel to show the grain that was around this bowl. It is a nice looking pipe.He took photos of the sides of the shank to show the stamping and the tobacco stains in the Lucite. The stamping is readable in the photos below and is as noted above.Jeff took the bowl off the acrylic shank and took photos of the threaded metal nipple/tenon that held the bowl on the shank top.I turned to Pipephil and Pipedia and there was no listing for the brand. That always leaves me a bit unsatisfied as I really want to know about the maker of a brand. I then checked on a site that I often refer to on metal and other odd pipes – Smoking metal. It generally has some interesting info on odd brands (http://www.smokingmetal.co.uk/index.html). Once again there was nothing there on Abbey pipes.

I always scroll through and look for something similar. In this case I found one that is somewhat like the Abbey pipe. It is a Lenox pipe (http://www.smokingmetal.co.uk/pipe.php?page=82). Here is the description of the Lenox:

Department : STEM OF OTHER MATERIALS & Screw through bowl. Hard to see the purpose of this one. There would be no signifacant extra cooling and there is no end plug to remove for ease of cleaning. LENOX in LUCITE molded into top of shank… These pipes were certainly on sale in 1951. Overall length 5 5/8 inch (143 m/m). The site also included some photos that I am including below to show the similarity. There were a lot of similarities to the pipe I am working on.
1. The threaded bowl with a metal nipple in the Lucite base.
2. The metal insert in the base of the bowl that threads onto the nipple.
3. A Lucite shank/base stamped with the name
4. The fact that there was no clean out on the shank end
5. The standard tenon and vulcanite stem

Now it was time to work on the pipe.

Jeff had done a great job cleaning up the pipe as usual. He reamed the pipe with a PipNet reamer and cut back the cake back to the bare briar. He cleaned up the walls with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the interior of the bowl and shank with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol to remove the tars and oils. He scrubbed the exterior of the pipe with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush to remove the grime from the finish. He worked on the rim top and edge to remove the lava and darkening with the soap and tooth brush. He scrubbed the inside of the Lucite shank and stem with alcohol and pipe cleaners. He scrubbed the exterior of the stem with Soft Scrub and then soaked it in Briarville’s Pipe Stem Deoxidizer. He washed it off with warm water to remove the Deoxidizer. The pipe looked much better than when we picked it up. There was still some tobacco staining in the shank end that needs to be worked on. But over all it looked very good when it arrived here. I took some close up photos of the rim top and also of the stem surface. The rim top and the inner edge looked very good. The stem was clean and the tooth marks and chatter were visible.I took a photo of the stamping on the left side of the shank. You can see that it is stamped as noted above. It is clear and readable.I took the pipe apart and took a photo of the parts. It is a good looking pipe and has some nice looking grain and rustication around the bowl.I started work on the pipe by repairing the damaged fills in the bowl sides and cap. I filled them in with clear CA glue. Once the repair cured I sanded the repairs smooth with 220 grit sandpaper to blend them into the surrounding briar. I polished the briar with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding the bowl with 1500-12000 grit pads and wiping them down with a damp cloth to remove the debris. The bowl started to look great.The briar came out looking very good so I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the briar with my fingertips. The product works to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for 15 minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The photos show the bowl at this point in the restoration process.I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the Lucite shank/barrel. I wanted to see if I could remove any more of the tobacco stains from the inside of the shank. I used pipe cleaners and Soft Scrub without little success because Jeff had already scrubbed it with that product. I soaked it in a bath of vinegar with a pipe cleaner in the airway as suggested by Dal Stanton in several of his restorations. I scrubbed the shank with several pipe cleaners after the bath and took quite a bit of the stain out. I then used several needle files and a sanding stick to work on the hard areas.I was able to remove more of the staining with that method. While it was far from perfect the combination worked well enough to remove more of the staining.I polished the Lucite barrel with micromesh sanding pads – sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads and wiping it down with Obsidian Oil between pads. It really shined after the polishing.I sanded out the tooth marks and chatter on the top and underside of the stem ahead of the button with 220 grit sandpaper and started polishing it with 400 grit wet dry sandpaper.I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine.I am excited to finish this interesting Abbey Lucite Shanked Pipe. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl, shank and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I hand buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with the grain popping all around the bowl. Combining the briar bowl with the clear Lucite barrel/shank and the black vulcanite saddle stem makes this a beautiful pipe. This smooth “Kirsten-like” pipe is nice looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: 7/8 of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 30grams/1.06oz. It is a beautiful pipe and one that will be on the PIPES FROM VARIOUS MAKERS – CZECH, BELGIAN, GERMAN, ISRAELI, SPANISH PIPEMAKERS ALONG WITH METAL PIPES section of the rebornpipes store soon. If you are interested in adding it to your collection let me know. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked over this pipe. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog.