Blog by Dal Stanton
Finally, a ‘simple’ clean up! Or, so I hope. The Howal has been in my ‘Help Me!’ basket for some time. I bought him from a vendor in an antique market, in the shadow of Nevski Cathedral in downtown Sofia, Bulgaria. It was from the same young man I purchased, out of his bag of pipe parts, an orphaned stummel which became my maiden restoration project published on Reborn Pipes. I titled it, A Newbie Restore of a Dr. Plumb 9456 Oom Paul – only it wasn’t an Oom Paul. Al Jones’ (aka, Upshallfan) comment to my first blog observed correctly: “the 9456 is a classic GBD shape, although it is considered to be a Bent Billiard (rather than a Oom-Paul).” I’m thankful for much ‘newbie’ grace I have received! Though, the pipe’s name is still Chicho Pavel, Bulgarian for Uncle Paul! He continues to be a favorite in my rotation and a special friend. The Howal (over Old Briar) Rustified Dublin now before me is of interest to me partly because of its origins. The pictures from my work table give an overview of the pipe itself. The Howal name is of interest to me because it originated from behind the former ‘Iron Curtain’ in East Germany during a geopolitical climate rife with change and human tragedy. My wife and I have spent over two decades living behind what was formerly the Iron Curtain and this is the second Howal I’ve found in the same Antique Market here in Bulgaria. The question that comes to my mind is whether Howals are more commonly found in Eastern Europe where perhaps, they were circulated under the old USSR in an enforced socialist, command economy? Pipedia’s article was both interesting and helpful in understanding the predecessor of and origins of the Howal name:
C.S. Reich was founded by Carl Sebastian Reich in Schweina, Germany in 1887. By its 50th jubilee in 1937 C.S. Reich was the biggest pipe factory in Germany. In 1952, however, the owners of the company were imprisoned and the company itself was nationalized as Howal, an abbreviation of the German words for “wood products Liebenstein” or “Holzwaren Liebenstein”. By the 1970’s Howal, after acquiring many other smaller pipe making firms, was the sole maker of smoking pipes in East Germany. In 1990, with the fall of the Berlin Wall and reunification of the Germanys, the company was closed.
While helpful for a broad sweep, I discovered much missing from this summary and it raises more questions. From another interesting source, Edith Raddatz’s lecture on tobacco pipe production in Schweina at the Tobacco Pipe Symposium in 2003, it describes a history of pipe production in this central German village that was reminiscent of my research into France’s pipe mecca, St. Claude. A strong development of the pipe making industry can be traced in the 1800s to the apex of the C.S. Reich Co. being Germany’s largest pipe producer in 1937, but Raddatz’s lecture reveals that other producers of pipes were also based in the German village of Schweina. Pipedia’s article above describes how the owners of the C.S. Reich Co. were arrested and imprisoned followed by the nationalization of the Reich Co. and becoming ‘Howal’, an acronym for “Wood Products Liebenstein” – Bad Liebenstein was the town that bordered and absorbed the village of Schweina. The question begs to be asked – which, unfortunately introduces the human tragedy wrapped around the name ‘Howal’ – Why were the owners arrested? In an unlikely source, the website of the ‘Small Tools Museum’ adds the names of those imprisoned: shareholders Robert Hergert and Karl Reich.
Edith Raddatz’s lecture (referenced above) brings more light to the difficult geopolitical realities these people faced (Google translated from German – brackets my clarifications):
By 1945 the company, which had meanwhile [passed to] the next generation – Kurt Reich And Walter Malsch – [had] about 100 employees. Among them were many women who mainly did the painting work. At the beginning of the 1950s, an era ended in Schweina. The first [oldest] tobacco pipe factory in Schweina closed their doors. There were several reasons for this. Kurt Reich passed away in 1941, [and] Walter Malsch [in] 1954. The political situation in the newly founded GDR made the conditions for private entrepreneurship difficult. The heirs of the company “AR Sons” [Reich family] partly moved to West Germany. The operation was nationalized and later toys were made there.
In post WWII occupied Germany, the Soviet occupied section was declared to be a sovereign state and the German Democratic Republic (GDR) was established in 1949 (See link). With a rudimentary understanding of Marxism and the economic philosophy undergirding it, it is not difficult to deduce what brought the demise of the C. S. Reich Co. and the formation of Howal. Solidification of the FDR’s hold on power paralleled the necessity to nationalize private ownership and to institute a State-centered command economy. These efforts gained momentum and forced companies/workers to work more with no additional pay. In 1952, the year that the owners of C. S. Reich Co., were arrested, this edict was advanced (See link):
In July 1952 the second party conference of the Socialist Unity Party of Germany (SED) took place in East Berlin. In SED General Secretary Walter Ulbricht‘s words, there was to be the “systematic implementation of Socialism” (planmäßiger Aufbau des Sozialismus); it was decided that the process of Sovietization should be intensified and the importance of the state expanded. The party was acting on demands made by Soviet premier Joseph Stalin.
As a result, Germany remembers the Uprising of 1953 which started in East Berlin, as factory workers revolted against the repression of the GDR, and spread to all East Germany. Many lost their lives as Moscow responded to squelch the unrest with tanks on the streets. In play also, was the mass exodus of people fleeing to West Germany, which included, per Edith Radditz’s lecture, the Reich family, who would have been heirs of the family’s legacy and company – pipe making. Also in 1953, completing the State forced abolition of any Reich claim, the largest pipe making company of Germany was seized, nationalized, and changed from C. S. Reich Co. to Howal. As ‘Howal’, pipes continued to be produced, undoubtedly with the same hands and sweat of the people of Schweina, along with other wooden products, such as toys. In the Pipedia article I quoted above, it said:
By the 1970’s Howal, after acquiring many other smaller pipe making firms, was the sole maker of smoking pipes in East Germany. In 1990, with the fall of the Berlin Wall and reunification of the Germanys, the company was closed.
My curiosity piqued, what does it mean when it says that Howal acquired many other smaller pipe making firms? Should we question whether these words can be understood in the normal free market enterprise way we are accustomed? Doubtful.
As I now look at this Howal before me, it is with a greater connection to its checkered past, the people of Germany’s pipe making heritage, and specifically, to the hands that drilled, shaped and finished the pipe. The possible dating of this Howal spans from 1953 to 1990, when the Howal factory was closed for good with the fall of the Berlin Wall and the old USSR (See link). The Howal markings on the left side of the shank are in very good shape. The rustification is very attractive in the Dublin style – definitely an ‘olde world’ feel. There are some marks on the rim. The bowl is totally free of cake – someone did some clean-up work before coming to me. The dark color of the stummel appears to be paint or a black stain – I can see brown around the nomenclature on the shank. I will clean the stummel with Murphy’s and see what happens. There is no oxidation on the stem nor teeth chatter or dents. So, could this Howal be only a simple cleaning and freshening?
I start by taking a picture of the rim and markings to take a closer look at areas of question. Then using Q-tips and pipe cleaners with isopropyl 95% I start cleaning the stummel internals. After only one plunge of a Q-tip, I see that the mortise is full of the black finish that is also on the external surface. I find no tobacco gunk in the mortise, only black dye – or whatever it is. After several Q-tips and some pipe cleaners, I decide simple to fill the mortise with isopropyl and let it soak for a few hours. This did the trick. After pouring off the dirty isopropyl the Q-tips, after the soak, started coming out clean very quickly. Stummel done. The stem required very little effort. The pictures show the progress. I take undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap and scrub the stummel surface with cotton pads and a bristled brush. I want to test the finish to see how solid it is as well as clean the grime out of the rustification ridges. After a good scrub, I rinse the soap of the stummel with tap water, careful not to allow water inside. After drying, I have two impressions of the black finish. First, the splotched glossy areas left over from the Murphy’s scrub remind me of the acrylic finishes that I’ve seen on smooth briars. Secondly, the finish now is speckled where the briar is coming through. Decision time. A plan starts formulating in my mind. I like the rustification of the Howal Dublin and I very much like the feel of the Dublin in my hand – it has a good ‘meditation’ appeal, which is a good quality for a pipe J. Yet, truth be known, I’m not a fan of the black finish. To me it is plain and stark – it lacks depth and interplay with the tight, crisp rustification patterns. I decide to continue scrubbing the surface with Murphy’s Soap to remove the remaining glossy spots but to leave the black hue in place. After Murphy’s, I use some isopropyl 95% with a cotton pad and work on the glossy areas. While not 100% gloss free, the last picture shows sufficient progress. I will give more thought to the plan at this point. The pictures tell the story. With a night of rest now fueling the thoughts, I decide to use the dark stain on the stummel as a back coat for a subtle Oxblood over-coat. My goal is to create more depth in the rustification by introducing another hue. I begin preparation of the stummel by very lightly sanding the top peaks of the rustification ridges with a 1500 grade micromesh pad. I do this to create entry points for the new dye in raw briar opened by the sanding. I’m thinking of the restoration I did with the classic rustified Lorenzo Rialto for the basic approach I’m now employing. I want the surface to be clean so I follow the sanding by wiping the surface with a cotton pad and isopropyl 95%. I use a black Sharpie pen to darken the worn ring of bare briar around the rim of the Dublin for better blending. I included a picture of the Lorenzo Rialto to get an idea of where I’m hopefully heading! In preparation to apply the stain, I cover the Howal gold lettering stamping with a bit of Petroleum Jelly to protect it. Using my wife’s hair dryer, I warm the stummel to open the briar to the new dye. Using a cork inserted in the bowl as a handle, I liberally apply Fiebing’s Oxblood Leather Dye to the surface of the stummel with a doubled pipe cleaner – careful to cover the entire stummel and rim. After the initial application, I fire the aniline dye and the alcohol burns off quickly setting the hue in the briar. After a few minutes, I repeat the process to assure an ample coverage and put the stummel aside to rest. The pictures show the progress. With the newly dyed stummel resting, since the Howal’s stem came to me in good condition – no tooth chatter or dents, I start wet sanding the stem using micromesh pads 1500 to 2400. I follow the wet sanding with an application of Obsidian Oil on the hungry vulcanite. I then dry sand with micromesh pads 3200 to 4000 and then 6000 to 12000 – following each set with an application of Obsidian Oil. The stem looks great – that newly polished vulcanite pop is very nice. I put the stem aside to dry. The pictures show the progress. Time to ‘unwrap’ the fired, crusted Oxblood dye I applied to the dark stummel. I mount a new felt polishing wheel on the Dremel and set the speed to the slowest setting and utilize the fine abrasion of Tripoli compound to take the crusted layer off. Patiently, I move the wheel across the surface in a circular motion, allowing the RPMs of the Dremel and the compound to do the work – I apply little downward pressure on the briar. As the results started to appear, I see the Oxblood speckling I was hoping to see, but not as much. I decide to follow by lightly sanding the rustified surface with a 1500 micromesh pad. This resulted in the direction I wanted to go, but I wanted the Oxblood hints, beginning to peek out, to be a few shades darker, richer. Even though I had already put away the stain and cleaned up, I decide to repeat the staining as before – hopefully to realize the results I can envision in my mind. The bottom picture in the set shows the stummel after the second staining with Frieberg’s Oxblood Leather Dye – not looking much different than before but simply to chronicle my procedure. The first picture, after the Tripoli then after, the sanding show the developing motif with the Oxblood and the rustification. After several hours, admittedly, I was a bit impatient to unwrap the fired crust the second time around. In the time in between, I had some time to think about the next step. My usual approach is to use a felt polishing wheel with the application of Tripoli compound to smooth briars. A felt wheel is flatter and firmer than a cotton cloth wheel and therefore, more abrasive than the cotton cloth wheel. With use on a rustified surface, I’m thinking that the felt wheel might possibly ride more naturally on the peeks of the raised ridges and possible do its work unevenly – at least in theory. My usual approach with the Dremel is to use a cotton cloth wheel when coming to the carnauba wax polishing stage. I decide to mount a cotton cloth wheel for both compounds I employ, Tripoli and Blue Diamond, and see how it goes. With the new cotton cloth wheel mounted on the Dremel, I’m ready to put theory into practice first with the Tripoli compound. The only problem breaking in a new cotton cloth wheel is that loose fibers run amuck and I’m covered! I continue to use the slowest speed the Dremel can offer for the compound. After the Tripoli, again with a new cotton cloth wheel, I apply Blue Diamond compound. I am truly amazed at the subtle Oxblood texturing that emerges – it is working! I find that I spent more time with the Tripoli as the Tripoli was the abrasive that created the effects of the Oxblood speckles. Where there were none or few Oxblood accents, I focused the Tripoli wheel at that area and the highlights would begin to appear. With the Blue Diamond I spend much less time as it was shining what was already revealed not bringing out more. I take a picture after the compound phase. After the compounds, I hand buff the stummel with a cotton cloth, not so much as to shine the stummel but to remove residue compound powders left over. I do this before the application of carnauba wax, also with a cotton cloth wheel, but with the Dremel increased to number 2 of 5 (being the fastest). After reuniting the stummel and stem, I give both several applications of carnauba wax. The only difference in technique with the wax is that with a small, Dremel polishing wheel, I am able strategically to apply the wax so it doesn’t get gunked up in the ridges of the rustification. I keep the wheel parallel with the grain and follow the ridges/valleys as I apply the carnauba. With the compounds, you are still sanding and ‘taking off’ from the finish, even though it’s shining things. With the wax, you’re not taking but leaving something behind – the wax has the purpose of polishing and protecting the finish. After applying the carnauba, I decide to do one more thing to recommission the rustified Dublin. With Rub ‘n Buff European Gold Wax Metallic Finish, which I just acquired during my Christmas visit to the States, I spruced up the Howal nomenclature. I applied the Rub ’n Buff with a pointed Q-tip and carefully wiped the excess. After dried, again I spruced up the area with a few passes of the carnauba wax wheel. A few pictures show the before and after. To finish, I give the stummel and stem a rigorous hand buffing with a micromesh cloth to bring out and deepen the shine.
I have a deeper appreciation for the name this rustified Dublin carries. Understanding the past helps us to stay rooted in the present. I appreciate better the legacy of the Howal name and the journey of the Carl Sebastian Reich family beginning in Schweina, Germany in 1887. I’m very pleased with the results of the Oxblood finish. In the presentation pictures below, I had to take some unusually close shots to see the subtle Oxblood highlights hidden by the reflection of the light. To me, the finish adds depth and texture to the attractive rustified Dublin. If you would like to add this Howal Old Briar to your pipe collection and stories, see my blog at The Pipe Steward. Thanks for joining me!
Great information in all of the responses. I appreciate all the interaction on this one. Well done on the write up Dal.
Thanks, Steve. Dr. Max has become the pipe of the hour. I’m looking forward to my Dr. Max arriving from UK and bringing to the work table.
Great! This is the second time today that I learn of a pipe maker/brand I am not familiar with. You have restored it beautifully Dal. Coincidentally, I am smoking a Dr Max (Jacek mentions the pipe in one of his comments above) whilst reading your post.
Thanks Johan! And I have never laid a hand on a Dr Max either!
Dr Max…today almost forgotten an interesting part of the history. During WW II people involved/participating in so called war effort in the British Isles were often experiencing nice discreet signs of appreciation. Many of such people were pipe smokers and for providing them with decent briar pipe for symbolic money the Dr Max pipes was offered to them. This is why Dr Max is also nicknamed “Working man friend”.
Jacek, great information! Where did you find that factoid? I need to find a Dr. Max!
Dal, in ’70 and ’80 I was visiting England and Scotland fairly often, and I met there a number of persons who were involved in war effort during stormy times of WW II. They were telling me a lot on pipes and their tales are my sources; if my memory serves me well, once or twice I was shown some receipts where it was stated that the Dr Max pipe of my interlocutor was sold to him for symbolic price set specially for these who were participating in war effort.
Unfortunately to my astonishment I can find nowhere in the internet today any information/source on this matter. But my memory is still serving me well, I am only 73 years of age 🙂 perhaps in some homes in the British Isles there are some old documents after grandfather who was smoking Dr Max pipe…
Well, I looked in Herb Wilczak & Tom Cowell’s ‘Who Made That Pipe?’ and according to them, the John Redman Co. of London, made Dr. Max. This pipe producer has made several names along the way including Aristocrat, Buckingham, Buckingham Palace, Canberra, Captain Fortune, Dr John, Golden Square, Redonian, Richmond (not Sasieni), Twin Bore according to Pipedia. Dr. Max isn’t listed here but it is in the ‘Makers List’ – Inexpensive brand of John Redman Ltd./British Empire Pipe Co. So, we’ll need to keep our eyes open for a Dr. Max! Thanks so much for adding to the story!
Jacek, I couldn’t resist – I looked on UK eBay and there was one Dr Max listed – I snatched it and I’ll look forward to adding its restoration and story to the Howal’s! Dr Max is on its way to Bulgaria.
Congratulations Dal! I hope you enjoy your Dr Max as much as I do mine. It is my Latakia pipe and she smokes like a dream.
Hey! I hate being left out of the Dr Max party. What I got appears to an off the beaten path shape – a Ukulele. We’ll see!
Eheheheheh. Lucky you. At least you know the shape of yours. What I do know is mine was smoked by a man that knocked the ash from the bowl on the heel of his boot!
Is this why Jacek commented that Dr Max was known as “Working man friend”?
Yes, Dal, we know the manufacturer of Dr Max. Perhaps some archives of distributors of goods offered for reduced prices to these who were involved in war effort could tell something more ?
The phrase: “working man’s friend” with regard to Dr Max pipes is stated in several places, including
I remember this phrase used in context of other pipes, too. For example: nice and not expensive pipe of Lovat shape named Colonel Henry Frazer. Coloner Frazer was real person, said to be an “originator” of the lovat shape. This is not accurate, let me quote Pipedia:
…it is thought that BBB was one of the first to call the form Lovat “Lovat”, pipes designed with broad led for a better passage of air. However, the firm “Friedlands” could have adopted this name at the same time. Lovats appeared well before 1914 and were proposed with the sale by BBB in four different dimensions, of which a series called Highland. Colonel Henry Francis Fraser (1872-1949), Lord of Lovat, must have made the publicity of this form made in his honor and which is always popular nowadays…
Johan, unfortunately I know nothing on Souvraine pipes. What I know about pipes in time of WWII is, that some of them made of briar due to shortage of material had the shanks sometime made from separate pieces of briar and then they were glued to the bowl. And some manufacturers returned to use the cherry wood material, that, by the way, has a long and beautiful tradition in pipemaking.
Well, I took Dr Max to work yesterday so he is this working man’s best friend and we listen to jazz whilst I work. When I discover more a bout the Souvraine I will share it here. It is like the Dr Max, a remarkably sweet smoker. I came across another pipe (that is according to the seller a pre-50’s purchase by her grandfather) that is stamped VAVIN UM OUTRO FUMEUR RUE VAVIN PARIS 61. Jacek do you know anything about this pipe and pipe shop in Paris by any chance?
Jacek and Johan, you won’t believe this. I purchased the Dr Max from UK and sent the seller a question regarding the origins of the pipe from his uncle’s estate. Jacek, you’ll be interested to hear about this Polish connection. His email to me:
Dal, thanks so much for buying the DR max pipe, I have it packed and postal label paid for now, and am just about to go to the post office to post.
“my uncle was a great collector of all antiques, and had a collection of pipes, I’m sorry I cant ask him the full details of this pipe as he is no longer with us anymore. he inspired me to collect things and I am following in his footsteps, only difference I like to sell things that I think others will use. he never parted with anything. as for this pipe I remember him buying it, he bought it at a Belfast Bootsale that he went to every week, on the Crumlin road. he told me he got it from a Polish couple that were living over here in Ireland, they had loads of different pipes he said. they told him they were given it by a old relation in Poland. that’s all I know about it. I tried to find out more about it online but had no luck I liked it because of the shape. hope this helps you a bit, all the best Karl. your pipe is on its way to you.”
What do you think?
Thank you, Dal, for the story on this Polish connection. And the phrase: …”they were given it by a old relation in Poland”… helps me to date this pipe. If this old relation were in Great Britain, then I would see a chance that the pipe was made in ’40. But if the benefactors/donators were in Poland, I see a great chance that the pipe was made in ’60 or’70. Why ? because at that time there were in Poland shops where foreign made goods were offered for hard currency. Between these goods there were Dunhill pipe tobaccos and some English smoking pipes like Hardcastle and our Dr. Max. Briar pipes aficionados were doing whatever they could to obtain necessary sum in $ to buy an English pipe and in this way many Dr Max pipes were selling really well in Poland. So probably this Dr Max was bought in Poland in one of such shops what suggests that dating is for ’60 or ’70.
I never had a Dr. Max myself as I was at that time rather for Danish made pipes, but my late Brother was having a number of Dr. Max pipes and he was of high opinion on them.
This is interesting. It makes me wonder whether I have a 40’s Dr Max. I am going to take a photograph and send it in. What is interesting is about the shape of my Dr Max is that the bevelled lip on the top of the bowl leading towards the rim is not exact as one would expect from a pipe that is turned on modern machine, or maybe it is just a quality control issue.
Johan: what we read ay this signature looks like an address of tobacconists shop. And we remember that best tobacconists were offering pipes made on their order and stamped with what the tobacconist wanted. So I believe that it is a French pipe made maybe in famous centre of St Claude (?) and sold in the Vavin tobacconist shop at Vavin street, Paris 61.
When I meet pipe of this kind I always think on famous The Owl shop in the USA and their pipes or the Bewlay in the UK. Plus some other…
Jacek I assumed as much, but I have been unable to find any information on the tobacconist on Rue Vauvin (and I actually know the street because it is close to the original Senellier art supply store). Also, I suspect that the little Souvraine was also made in St Claude. Now that you have mentioned famous pipe shops who had carvers produce pipes in their name, I am now tempted to buy their pipes. I recently came across a Bewy Popular from Bewlay’s and a Barclay Rex (white dot on the stem) here in Lisbon and I am tempted to acquire it. I miss the old tobacconists with Jars of tobacco on display and the conversations I had when buying tobacco.
Jacek, to answer your question about the Dr. Max. I sent the seller of the Dr Max and he said that he recalled that his uncle bought the Dr Max only last year, 2016, and the Polish couple he bought it from said the received the pipe from a relation in Poland, not residing in the UK. To complete what we know.
Jacek thank you for sharing your information on Dr Max. In particular, I like that you gain your information through engaging in conversation. My Dr Max belonged to a clarinetist of the Sáo Carlos Orchestra. This was around the time of WWII. I also have another one of his pipes, called a Souvraine of which I can find nothing online. I presumed this was a WWII French “weapon of choice” made for French soldiers on the frontline. Do you know anything about this pipe perhaps?
Dal, thanks for the interesting article and careful restoration work. The rusticstion appears to be a combination of wire cut and sandblast. Looks very good on a Dublin shape. Good job!
Thanks, Al. Appreciate your words. You know, one of the areas I’m really weak on is the ‘rustification lexicon’ – you used ‘wire cut’ and ‘sandblast’ for example. What are the designations for stummels that are not smooth? I’m sure someone has written it down somewhere. The Dublin shape really does look good with this Howal – feels good too!
Dal, I don’t know of any repository of information on rusticstion. Even Pipedia had only one tutorial, but no other explanations of types and forms that a searc turned up. Wire cut was used on some Dr. Grabow pipes. I had one a while back that I believe was from the Starfire series made in the 1960s, if not mistaken. I always liked wire cut rusticstion and have seen some good present day examples. I believe it is done with a Dremel. Not sure if a cutting wheel or burr is used.
Al, it might be the time to create one! I’ve read some essays posted on rustification and how its a good option for less than attractive or damaged stummels. I would like to try my hand at it some day.
Regarding different techniques of rustication perhaps the seria of pictures showing rustication by Mrs. Daniela Cavicchi may be of interest
and please, scroll down to the bottom –
Daniela Showing her Rustication Skills
A 15-Minute Process
Jacek, thanks for this reference to Daniela’s rustification practices. I’ll look at this with great interest!
Thank you, Dal, for your kind words. I am happy that what I wrote on some restoration is of help 🙂 Returning to Howal pipes: one of the things that I find characteristic for these Howals that I remember was the “overuse” of carving techniques in elaboration of surfaces, I hardly remember a Howal with surface covered with real sandblast. Other thing is that the finish of the surface was made with use of some color which probably was not chosen with accordance to the nature of briar and probably influenced smoking in not too good way. I am also not sure if the stem/mouthpiece was made of ebonite or of some other artificial material (kind of celluloid ?), not as good as ebonite for making smoking pipes stems.
My young days in Poland were “surrounded” by Howal pipes. I have never smoked them, but I have restored many of them for my friends. According to what I was told by Howal smokers they were of so-so quality, but better – mostly English pipes to begin from cheap Dr Max were available only in speccial shops for hard currency.
Thanks for this information, Jacek! I haven’t smoked the Howal, but it does have a good feel. Yet, you just don’t hold them, but smoke them too. Thanks for your essay on splicing stems – it was helpful on another restoration I recently completed.
Reblogged this on The Pipe Steward.
Otto Pollner : Die Pfeifenmacher zwischen Rennsteig und Rhön, heka – Verlag.
About pipemaking in Thüringen before and after the war.
Jorgen, did you have a link to direct us to this information? I Googled Otto Pollner and he wrote a book called (in English) The pipe maker between Rennsteig and Rhön: history and functioning in three centuries. Were you referring this?
yes, Otto Pollner the old master in German pipemakeing. The same book,but mine is in German.
Very good book if you can get hold on a copy.
I found it online, unfortunately, only in German! That would take me quite a long time to read I’m afraid. Thanks for the reference!