Daily Archives: May 17, 2016

Breathing New Life into a Jobey Stromboli 500 Bent Sitter

Blog by Steve Laug

It’s funny how some brands escape my attention. I cannot explain it or give some rationale for not being interested in Jobey pipes. But I know that until my brother, Jeff started picking them up because he liked the looks of them they did not appear much on my radar. I know that a few years back I picked up a Stromboli ¼ bent author because I liked the look of the rustication but that was the long and short of my interest. Now since my brother has been buying pipes more of them are crossing my work table and I am gaining a new appreciation for them.

In the case of this pipe, I know that the blue stem on this Stromboli is what caught my brother’s eye. It is a gorgeous shade of blue that stands in stark contrast to the dark deep rustication of the bowl and shank of the pipe. He sent me the link to the eBay sale and I too took an interest in the stem and the shape. From the photos I could see that the finish on this pipe was in decent shape overall. There was some wear on the rim. It appeared that some of the finish had chipped off and there were some worn spots on the front and the back outer edges of the bowl. The cake was uneven (varying thicknesses from the photos) in the bowl and an overflow of lava on the rim top and edges. The stem had some stains or dark substance on the grooves of the turned portions. The pipe is stamped on the smooth bottom of the sitter bowl with the words Jobey over Stromboli and the number 500. The stem also has some wear and tooth marks on and in front of the button on the top and bottom sides. All in all, I was looking forward to receiving this pipe and seeing what I could make of it. I have included the seller’s pictures below to show some of the issues that I mentioned above.Jobey1 Jobey2 Jobey3 Jobey4 Jobey5 Jobey6When the pipe arrived it looked precisely as the pictures had shown it. The dirty finish was a little worse than the photos showed. There was more grime in the grooves of the rustication. The stamping on the bottom of the bowl had a wax buildup in it that made it appeared blurred and double stamped. The stem was also a bit more of a mess than I had originally thought. The brown areas around the grooves and lines on the stem were actually thick and hard and did not come off by scraping. I am not sure what the substance was but it seemed to be stubbornly permanent. There were also tooth marks on stem on both the top and the underside of the stem near the button. The top of the button was also worn down on the inner sharp edge. The slot was almost closed off with grime and debris. The stem was loose and easily fell of the Jobey Link in the mortise. I took some photos of the pipe before I started working on it.Jobey7 Jobey8 Jobey9 Jobey10I took a close-up photo of the rim and also the bottom of the bowl to show the stamping. The rim was dirty with tars and oil and some lava in the grooves. The bowl had a light cake remaining even after I had field reamed it when I was visiting in Idaho. The stamping on the bottom of the bowl is visible in the second photo. It had wax and grime in the grooves so it looked almost blurred and out of focus.Jobey11 Jobey12I removed the stem from the Jobey Link and then used a flat blade screw driver to turn the link out of the shank of the pipe. I took a photo of the parts of the pipe to show the size and shape of the link. (You can also see the brown buildup on the grooves and ridges of the stem).Jobey13I scrubbed the rustication with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush to remove the grime from the deep grooves. I also used a brass bristle brush to scrub the rim and the grooves there. The bristles of the brass brush easily removed the tars and lava from the rim surfaces. Once the bowl was scrubbed I rinsed it under warm running water to remove the soap and grime and then dried it on a soft towel.Jobey14 Jobey15I used a dark brown stain pen to touch up the worn areas on the outside edge of the rim and the top surface as well. The dark brown perfectly matched the stain on the rest of the bowl. Jobey16With the link removed from the shank I was able to clean out the mortise with alcohol, pipe cleaners and cotton swabs. I worked on the threads as well to remove the buildup on them. I clean out the airway on the stem with pipe cleaners and alcohol and picked the slot clean with a dental pick. I used a pipe cleaner to also clean out the airway in the link. With the inside of the stem clean the link fit snugly in place and the stem was no longer loose.Jobey17 Jobey18With the inside of the stem clean it was time to work on the rock hard substance on the grooves of the turned stem. The substance was impermeable to alcohol and was also on the flat diamond sides of the saddle portion of the stem. I wrapped a metal tube that was approximately the same diameter as the grooves with 220 grit sandpaper and worked on cleaning out the grooves and an emery board to sand the flat surfaces. Jobey19I used a needle file to redefine the edges of the button on both sides of the stem and to also smooth out the tooth chatter and marks.Jobey20 Jobey21I sanded the stem at the button and grooves with 150, 280, 320, 400 and 600 grit wet dry sandpaper to smooth out the scratches left behind by the 220 grit sandpaper. I took photos of all sides of the stem to show how well the sanding removed the hard substance on the stem in the affected areas.Jobey22 Jobey23 Jobey24 Jobey25I cleaned out the stamping with a dental pick and then used a black Sharpie Pen to colour in the text of the stamping. I buffed the bowl bottom lightly on the buffer to blend the black pen into the rest of the bowl bottom. I turned the link back into the shank and gave the bowl a light coat of Conservator’s Wax. I buffed it with a shoe brush to raise the shine.Jobey26 Jobey27I did a final scrape of the interior of the bowl with a Savinelli Pipe Knife to remove the remaining cake on the bowl walls.Jobey28I wet sanded the stem with 1500-2400 grit micromesh sanding pads and then wiped down the stem with a clean cloth to remove the dust. I dry sanded the stem with 3200-12000 grit pads to continue to polish and shine the stem.Jobey29 Jobey30 Jobey31

I lightly buffed the stem with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. It is important with Lucite to keep a light touch as you move the stem against the wheel as you can easily melt the stem and make more work for yourself. I hand gave the stem several coats of carnauba and buffed it with a clean buff. I brought the pipe back to the work table and buffed the bowl with the shoe brush and also with a microfibre cloth. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. It is a beauty. I love the contrast between the dark brown/black of the craggy rustication and the smooth deep, royal blue of the stem. Thanks for looking.Jobey32 Jobey33 Jobey34 Jobey35 Jobey36 Jobey37 Jobey38

This Beauty is a Peer Import Danish Handmade Dublin Stack 20

Blog by Steve Laug

My brother found this old timer on eBay and made an offer for it. He showed me the pictures of the pipe when he bought it. The pipe is stamped Peer Import over Denmark on the left side of the shank and Made by Hand over 20 on the right side of the shank. It is a Danish take on a tall Dublin Stack. I believe the 20 is the shape number. The pipe was in excellent condition from the photos and showed very little wear. There was some rim darkening. Here are the photos that the seller included with the listing. It is clear that the stem is upside down which accounts for the sloppy fit of the stem at the shank. Peer1 peer2 Peer3The pipe arrived while I was visiting him in Idaho. I reamed the bowl and removed the light cake that had formed around the top 1/3 of the bowl. I have found on these tall pipes that the cake usually does not goes all the way to the bottom of the bowl as it is rarely smoked to the bottom. The condition of the pipe was pretty clean. The natural briar finish was dirty and there was a lighter portion at the stem shank joint. It made me wonder if the pipe had been restemmed but once I turned it over in the shank the fit was perfect. The rim had an inward bevel that had some lava overflow on the top surface but the inner and outer edges were clean and undamaged. The stamping on the shank was readable but it was not sharp. The slightly bent stem had tooth chatter at the button but no deep tooth marks. It was oxidized and there were a few deep gouges on the surface of the stem toward the middle top. The button and slot were undamaged. The interior of the pipe and stem were relatively clean.Peer4 Peer5 Peer6 Peer7I took a close up photo of the bowl rim and top as well as the stamping to show the condition. The rim top needed a thorough scrubbing to remove the lava buildup but it did not appear to be burned or charred. The edges were very clean. The stamping in the second and third photos shows that it was lighter on the left side than on the right but it is still readable.Peer8 Peer9 Peer10I did some research online to see if I could gather information about who made Peer Import pipes. All I knew was that they were Danish “Made by Hand” pipes but there was not much information on them. However, I was able to find several for sale on line. I read through each of the sale write-ups and also the etsy connection. On smokingpipes.com there was a Peer Import pipe that to my eye looked like a Kriswell Clipper was for sale. The pipe was nothing like the one that I am working on but the blurb by Adam Davidson gave some potentially helpful insight. His comment was: “This piece is a classic Danish shape from the 1950s. Possibly made by Pipe Dan or another house, it’s the lovely bowl and lean, tapered shank that makes it so popular”. Here is the link to that pipe and comment: (https://www.smokingpipes.com/pipes/estate/denmark/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=102766).

With that in mind I did some refined searching under the Pipe-Dan name. I put in the shape number with the name and was taken to Pipephil’s site (http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-p3.html) and gleaned some more information. While I am still not sure of the absolute connection to Pipe-Dan the shape number of the Peer Import matches the brand. So I read what I could find on the brand on that site.

That link told me that the brand was created in 1943. The shop (Danish name: Pibe-Dan) which closed in 1991 was run by H. Dan Christensen. He sometimes designed pipes but he is merely renowned for having helped young artisans like Tom Eltang, Preben Holm, Jes Phillip Vigen, Hans Hartmann… Pipe-Dan let the pipe maker stamp his own name on a pipe along with the shop’s name. The line name “Shape-Reformed” means that a traditional shape had been redesigned.

While this pipe does not say that it is a Pipe-Dan pipe and it has no other stamping that would lead me to claim that I am pretty confident that the shape number connection also points to that connection. Armed with that information I went to work on the pipe. I cleaned the rim with saliva and cotton pads followed by sanding with 1500-2400 grit micromesh sanding pads. I was able to remove the lava buildup and smooth out the surface of the rim. There was still some rim darkening but no char.Peer11I scrubbed the natural finish with acetone on cotton pads to remove the oils and grime on the finish. The acetone removed all residual oils from the previous owner’s hands and the debris from the years that the pipe sat. It also cleaned up the lightening of the colour at the shank stem junction.Peer12 Peer13 Peer14 Peer15There was a flaw in the vulcanite stem – a small, ¼ inch long pit in the top of the rubber that had collected debris. I cleaned the stem surface with alcohol and picked out the white waxes and dust that had collected in the flaw. I filled it with superglue and set the stem aside to dry.Peer16I gave the bowl a rub down with a light coat of olive oil and hand buffed the natural matte finish with a piece of soft cotton. The pipe has some beautiful grain. The tall stack and thinness of the shank and bowl give the pipe a quiet elegance.Peer17 Peer18 Peer19 Peer20 Peer21When the glue dried I sanded it with 220 grit sandpaper until the patch was flush with the stem surface. I took the next two photos to show how well it blended in with the rest of the stem.Peer22 Peer23This pipe was internally so clean that I almost forgot to clean out the inside. I scrubbed the airway and mortise on the bowl and airway on the stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol. You can see from the photos that there was not much work to be done in the internals.Peer24 Peer25I wet sanded the bowl with 1500-2400 grit micromesh sanding pads and gave it a coat of Obsidian Oil. I dry sanded it with 3200-4000 grit pads and gave it another coat of oil. I finished sanding it with 6000-12000 pads and gave it a final coat of oil. I set the stem aside to dry.Peer26 Peer27 Peer28I buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond polish on the wheel and multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed it with a clean buffing pad and hand buffed it with a microfibre cloth. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. I love the elegant tall, thin bowl and shank. The 1/8th bent stem works really well with the overall flow of the pipe. It is a beauty. Thanks for looking.Peer29 Peer30 Peer31 Peer32 Peer33 Peer34