Monthly Archives: April 2015

An Unsmoked Goedewaagen Double Walled Ceramic Billiard


Blog by Steve Laug

Having restored several older Goedewaagen Double Walled Ceramic pipes in the past when I found that I had an unsmoked billiard in the craigslist lot I was excited to see how it looked “new”. It is shown at the bottom of the left column in the photo below.craig5 The pipe is white ceramic with a blue Delft style look to it painted and cured into the ceramic on the side of the shank and on the front of the bowl. The bowl front has a painting of a man in the stocks and people standing in front of him mocking him during his suffering. On the left side of the shank it reads Holland. The brass end cap is stamped Goedewaagen and Made in Holland. The stem is acrylic and looks a lot like some of the older ones that I have the have amber stems.

The pipe was made by an old Dutch pipe making house. Here is the link to their website. Have a look at the history page on the site. It gives detailed background on the pipe. The link is in Dutch but can be translated through Google Translate. http://www.goedewaagen.nl/goedewaagen/. I have a cutaway diagram of the double walled ceramic that helps give and idea of how it looks.Go01 I took a few photos of the unsmoked pipe to keep a record of an unsmoked version of the double walled ceramic pipe.Go1

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Go4 I took a close up of the bowl so that the air hole in the bottom of the bowl is clearly visible.Go5 I also took a photo of the cork gasket on the tenon of the stem. It was quite dry so I rejuvenated it with a rub down of Vaseline. Once the Vaseline was absorbed it fit smoothly into the shank. The cork was soft and springy again as it was when it was freshly cut.Go6

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Go9 The end cap is brass and is stamped “Goedewaagen” over “Made in Holland”.Go10 One day I will load up a bowl and smoke it for the first time but for now it will sit in my pipe rack as an unsmoked example of the Goedewaagen pipe.

Another Pre-War Yello Bole


Blog by Andrew Selking

In my quest to corner the market on pre-war Yello Bole pipes, I snagged this nice little oval shank Dublin. It’s between a group one and group two size, my smallest reamer head only fits about half way into the bowl. The best part is the pipe had not suffered serious abuse. It had some tar on the rim, along with a few nicks and a small tooth mark on the back of the stem. Here is what it looked like when I got it.Andrew1 You will notice the varnish, in a lot of cases a finish like that is to cover up imperfections in the briar. So it was with a little trepidation that I dropped the bowl into the alcohol bath.Andrew2 While the bowl marinated, I soaked the stem in Oxyclean. Next I reamed the bowl. As I mentioned earlier the reamer head didn’t fit all the way down, so I carefully removed the remaining cake with a small pen knife (which you can see in the corner of the picture) and a dental pick.Andrew3 Next up the retort. Judging from the stinger I didn’t expect a dirty pipe.Andrew4

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Andrew6 The stem was a little dirtier, but a second retort cleared it up nicely.Andrew7

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Andrew9 With the internals sorted, I could now see what lurked under the varnish. I used 0000 grit steel wool and acetone to remove the tar on the rim and the varnish.Andrew10 I was pleased to only find a single fill.Andrew11 It was the pink putty though, and I hate pink putty, so it had to go.Andrew12 I’ve tried as many different techniques for fixing fills as I can think of. My current technique is to use a push pin to spread a small amount of CA glue into the hole, next I pack it full of briar dust, followed by a drop of CA, followed by a drop of accelerator. The nice thing about using accelerator is you can work the repair right after drying off any remaining accelerator. Here is what the repair looked like before sanding.Andrew13 Next I tackled the oxidation on the stem. I used 400 grit wet/dry with water followed by 1500, 1800, and 2400 grit micro mesh pads with water. I always hold a washer over the tenon to prevent rounding the shoulders of the stem. Here is the stem after removing oxidation.Andrew14 I still had the tooth mark on the bottom of the stem to fix, so I mixed up some clear CA and finely ground charcoal dust and applied it with my push pin. You may notice the yogurt container, I use that to mix the glue and charcoal. When it gets too dirty I throw it away and get a new one.Andrew15 I used 400 grit sand paper to shape the fill, followed by 1500-2400 grit micro mesh. I usually don’t use water when sanding down fills. I removed the top coat of finish on the bowl with a progression of 1500 to 2400 grit micro mesh pads. Next I used 3200 to 12,000 grit micro mesh pads to polish the entire pipe. You will again notice the washer on the stem. Here is the pipe ready for final polish.Andrew16 I used my rotary tool with white diamond and carnauba wax on the stem.Andrew17 I took the bowl to the buffer and used white diamond and carnauba wax on it as well. Just a word of caution when using a buffer, hold onto whatever you’re buffing with both hands.

Here is the final result. Thanks for looking.Andrew18

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Restoring an old Peterson Canadian – the old pipe in the craigslist lot


Blog by Steve Laug

The fourth pipe I took on for repair from the craigslist lot was a small Peterson Canadian with a silver band and p-lip stem. It is the second pipe down on the right side of the photo below.craig5 The stamping on this old Peterson was unique enough that I wanted more information. It was different from any of the other Petersons that I have worked on. When I need specific information on a Pete I drop an email to Mark Irwin and he never fails to give the details I need. I sent him the following email:

“Mark, the Peterson that I need information on is a Canadian shape with a silver band. It has the p-lip stem in quite remarkable shape under the oxidation. The stamping on the pipe is interesting. On the top of the shank it is stamped K&P over DUBLIN and on the underside of the shank it is stamped Made in Ireland in a circle with the “in” in the centre of the circle. The silver band was black with oxidation but after a light cleaning I can see that it is stamped STERLING SILVER horizontally to the shank. Over that are the K & P in three shields. Underneath there are hallmarks stamped vertically to the shank. It looks to be the typical stamping. The first two shields are worn but seem to have the Ireland figure, the 925 silver stamp and a third that looks to be a P. Any information would help. Thanks Mark.” Pete1 Mark got back to me fairly quickly with this response:

“Peterson made a number of Canadian shapes back in the day, although the standard is now the 264. The Made in Ireland in a circle suggests tells us it what made before 1949, the lack of a hallmark (aside from the K&P in 3 shields) means it was made after 1938, as they quit hallmarking from 1938-1968. No shape number stamp would seem to confirm the 1938-1949. As they made very few pipes from 1942-1945, it probably fell on either side of 42-45. If you’ll measure the length of the pipe and bowl height and width for me, I’ll check it against the 1937 catalog, which featured full scale illustrations. The ‘37 catalog doesn’t list all the Canadian shapes, however, just the more popular ones. If you want to remove the band, you might find a number scratched in the wood—we think this has to do with the band, however, and not the shape number. GT&C were Peterson’s sole importer in Canada from about 1910-1960, and after the war, they primarily carried unbanded Petes. They also had their own shape numbers stamped by Peterson—the System pipes always carry a “1” in front of the Peterson numbers—“1307,” etc. Almost every Peterson System estate for sale from Canada on eBay will have that “1” on the Systems.”

I sent Mark some photos of the unrestored pipe so he could see the stampings and the marking on it and assess its date. He responded with the following email: “Okay, what you’ve got is a Kapet, the line between the DeLuxe and the lower K line. It’s a Kapet because of the Sterling. It’s not a DeLuxe because of the “special aluminum inner tube for easy cleaning” (1937 catalog, p. 1). The K also had the inner tube, but would not have the sterling mount. The bowl itself is the same size as the current 264, although the shank is a bit shorter than the current 264. I am surprised there is no Kapet stamp on the pipe, as the ‘37 catalog engravings plainly show line stamps. But it’s a pipe, and of course subject to the vagaries of production.”

When I saw the pipe I was not too excited about it because I had not cleaned it up at all or looked at it. It was in rough shape. The finish was worn and it had dents and dings. The rim was dirty and caked with tars and oils – the lava of use. The bowl was dirty and had a light cake and a raw briar bottom of the bowl. It had not been smoked to the bottom of the bowl. The band was dark and oxidized and unreadable. The stem was oxidized and had evidently sported a softie bit like all the other pipes in this collection. I cleaned up the band enough to send Mark the information. I was more excited by the pipe once I knew its potential age. His initial response put it before 1949 and after 1938. After seeing the photos of the pipe his dating changed to potentially 1937. Thus it was the oldest pipe in the craigslist lot. It was a decent piece of briar with mixed grain and no visible fills.Pete01

Pete02 After cleaning up the silver a bit I took the following photos. These are the ones that I sent Mark to help date the pipe and give me as much information as he could.Pete2

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Pete5 I took some close up photos of the stem to show the inner tube more clearly as well as the state of the stem. As can be seen from these photos, under the oxidation the stem is in great shape with no tooth marks or chatter that needed to be address. The P-Lip was in great shape with no tooth damage to it either. The stem should clean up very well.Pete6

Pete7 I used a silver polishing cloth and silver polish to further remove the oxidation from the band. I also scrubbed it with some cigar ash and found that it worked extremely well to remove the tarnish on the sterling silver band.Pete8

Pete9 I sanded the oxidation and calcification off the stem with 220 grit sandpaper. I then sanded the stem with a medium and a fine grit sanding sponge.Pete10

Pete11 I reamed the bowl with a PipNet reamer and took it back to a very thin cake. I also scrubbed the rim with isopropyl alcohol to remove the tarry buildup that had accumulated there. It took a lot of elbow grease and hard scrubbing but it all came off. There was some darkening on the inner and outer edge of the rim. I also scrubbed the bowl down with the alcohol on cotton pads to remove the grime and dirt on the finish.Pete12

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Pete15 I scrubbed out the shank and the stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and isopropyl alcohol until it was clean. The pipe even smelled fresh!Pete16 I sanded the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12,000 grit pads. I rubbed the stem down with Obsidian Oil as usual between each set of three pads. Once it was finished I buffed the stem with Red Tripoli to get some of the stubborn oxidation off at the tenon end and the Blue Diamond. I took it back to the work table and repeated the dry sanding with 4000-12,000 grit pads.Pete17

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Pete19 I buffed the finished pipe with Blue Diamond and then gave the stem and bowl several coats of carnauba wax to protect the finish and stem and give it a shine. I then buffed it with a clean soft flannel buff to raise the shine. The finished pipe is shown below. It is ready to load with a bowl of my favourite Virginia and be reintroduced to what it was made for.Pete20

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ADDENDUMI find I need to correct this post. Instead of rewriting it and changing it I decided to add this to the end of the story.

After doing a bit more research and receiving another email from Mark I took the pipe out into bright light and used a jeweler’s loop to see if I could read the faint hallmarks on the band. Mark sent along an older Peterson Hallmark chart and I compared the faint stampings to the chart. I could see a cartouche with a P in it that led me to amend my original post – the pipe is not a 30s era Pete but rather a Pete from 1981. Ah well. The thrill of having an old one lasted for at least a day…Peterson Hallmark Chart

Using a Rotary Tool to Buff Stems


Blog by Andrew Selking

I have been looking for a better way to make my pipe stems look good for a very long time. I started out just using high grit sandpaper, next I got a buffing attachment for my drill, after that I moved up to an actual buffer. I added micro mesh sanding pads, white diamond rouge, and carnauba wax, but still had problems with getting a consistent shine. Of course the other problem with buffing stems, especially stems with sharp edges, is the tendency for the buffer to catch the edge and fling the stem across the room. How could I ever improve my stem work?

Fortunately one of the pipe restoration gurus who does this for a living let something slip on a discussion board. He mentioned that he uses a variable speed buffer. My first thought was, “that sounds expensive,” but after giving it some thought I realized that I had a variable speed rotary tool (that’s what you call a Dremel knock off). I paid $19.99 from Harbor Freight tools and it even came with a large selection of attachments.

Here is a recent example of a stem I did using this tool. The previous owner did take care of the pipe, it was well waxed and clean inside, but if you look closely you can see the telltale signs of oxidation.Andrew1 I gave the stem my usual soak in Oxyclean, which revealed the full scope of oxidation to be dealt with. (Sorry the pictures are a bit blurry).Andrew2

Andrew3 Some people have asked me why use Oxyclean if it makes the stem look so bad. The answer is, the oxidation is present regardless whether you choose to address it or not. If you polish over the oxidation you will eventually end up with a shiny brown stem.

To remove the oxidation I use 400 grit wet/dry sand paper with water. Since the water makes the stem artificially shine, I dry it to make sure I get all the oxidation. Another trick I learned from one of the articles on Steve’s blog was to use a washer at the end of the stem to prevent rounding the shoulders. It’s well worth the effort. Since this stem had so many flat surfaces, I use a small plastic kitchen scraper as a sanding block with the 400 grit.

After the 400 grit I use 1500, 1800, and 2400 grit micro mesh pads with water. Here is the stem after that treatment.Andrew4 While I waited for the stem to dry I retorted the pipe and cleaned the shank. I didn’t take pictures of the process since the pipe was basically new. Once the stem was dry I used a progression of micro mesh pads from 3200 to 12,000 grit to polish the stem. In my opinion polishing with the micro mesh pads is the real key to a nice looking stem. As you progress to a finer level, you’re removing the scratch pattern from the previous one.

Now comes the fun part, making it shine! This is what my set up looks like. The rotary tool, white diamond, carnauba wax, and the felt pads for polishing.Andrew5 Notice the speed adjustments.Andrew6

Andrew7 To buff the stem, I set the speed to 1 and load the felt pad with white diamond. I hold the stem in one hand and apply the pad with the other. It is important to keep the pad moving, if you leave it in one place too long it will start to dig into the vulcanite. This isn’t a fast process, but I find I can get a lot better control and consistency with the shine. Once the stem is buffed to a high luster, I switch out buffing pads, turn the speed to 2, and proceed with the carnauba wax. As you can see the stem turned out pretty well.Andrew8

Andrew9 Here are some gratuitous pictures of a dead sexy pipe. Thanks for looking.Andrew10

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You Got To Know When To Hold ‘Em – Pap’s Pipes


Blog by Patrick Russell

“On a warm summer’s eve, on a train bound for nowhere, I met up with a gambler; we were both too tired to sleep…” – All italicized quotes are from the Gambler by Kenny Rogers (used without permission).

Last summer I was presented with a wonderful challenge by my good friend Dave. Dave, like me, is a younger pipe man. Okay, he’s almost ten years younger than me… but who’s counting. Dave pulled me aside during a pipe club meeting and said, “Pat, can you do something with these?” Dave put four pipes into my hands, “These are my grand-dad’s pipes. He always had one of them in his mouth. Pap loved these pipes.” Like lots of you folks who clean up estate pipes, I often do resto work for free for friends. More often than not, the friend will dash me a tin of ‘baccy or will send me a tip on an estate lot. But that’s not why I do it. I do free resto work for friends for the same reason you do, because you like the person, and they asked for help. My only rule with this kind of work is that the friend has to be on no timeline. When your wife is pregnant, or you have a seven month old, this is an important rule.

Dave put those pipes into my hand last July, before we had our beautiful baby girl, and before I fell out of the pipe cave and into the blue eyes of my daughter. But I digress. The pipes…

Pap loved those pipes. He really, really, loved those pipes. Dave said that Pap was a stuff ’em and puff ’em guy and a cursory look at the pipes backed up the story. All four airways blocked. Cake thick enough to require the smallest reamer head. There was enough oil on the outside of the pipes that grain was impossible to find, and I’m pretty sure that most of the pipes started with a button. “I’ll do it,” I said.Pat1

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Pat5 Dave loved his Pap, and really wanted these pipes in good working order. I really wanted to be the guy to make that happen for Dave.

“He said, ‘Son I’ve made a life out of readin’ people’s faces, knowin’ what the cards were by the way they held their eyes…”

Estate pipes tell you a lot about what can, and can’t, be done to them if you know where and how to look. The first thing I do when I’m cleaning up a pipe is to soak the stems in an Oxyclean bath while I ream the tobacco chamber and then do a surface clean of the rim and stummel. This, generally, lets me investigate the pipe well enough to know what kind of work the resto of it is going to need to get the pipe back into a smoking rotation. I have limits to my skill, some of which I’ll press so I can learn new skills, but never will I do this with pipes that aren’t mine. I sure as hell wasn’t going to go beyond my skill level with Pap’s pipes.Pat6

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Pat13“And the night got deathly quiet, and his face lost all expression. He said, ‘If you’re gonna play the game boy, you gotta learn to play it right…”

Did you see what I saw when I was cleaning those pipes? Let me give you a closer look…

Reamed out of round, with a nasty gouge. That wasn’t me… that looks to me like a pocket knife. Rim badly gouged from knocking out on… life. And the coup de grace… a bad split on the top of the shank.Pat14

Pat15 Rim charring doesn’t cover it, this is rim charred. Any more smokes without the cake that I’d just removed and this prince was going to be a cinder.Pat16 Fills the size of Manhattan… I know, they are cosmetic only, but look closely at what lies in the fill on the second pic.Pat17

Pat18 Um… Yep. That’s a burnout, with the Grand Canyon in the middle of it.Pat19

“Every gambler knows that the secret to survivin’ is knowing what to throw away, and knowin’ what to keep…”

I had to stop. I had cleaned the tars off the surface of the pipes. I had cleared the airways and sanitized the stems. I had reamed the tobacco chambers and done three salt and alcohol treatments… and I still hadn’t broken through the collected dottle and juice which had petrified in the draught holes of the stummels. But if I did any more work on these pipes there was every likelihood that Dave wouldn’t have Pap’s pipes anymore.

“And somewhere in the darkness, the gambler he broke even, but in his final words I found an ace that I could keep.”

I returned Pap’s pipes to Dave last month at our pipe club night. Was he disappointed? He would have loved to have smoked them, but I think he’s happiest to still have them.

Birth of a Handmade JSEC Egg


Blog by Steve Laug

When I met with James in Stuttgart recently I spoke about ordering another pipe from him. On the evening of the day we met I went on his website and a couple of US based sites that carry his pipes and nothing truly caught my eye. I went through his photo gallery of pipes that he had made over the years and chose two different shapes from his website and sent him my request. I really like his Speckled Egg shape and his uniquely rusticated Ria shape. I emailed him regarding these two pipe shapes and let him know of my interest. He said he would let me know when he cut another one of either pipe.

I traveled from Stuttgart to Berlin to meet with another team and do some development work for the Foundation I work for. Then on my last day in Berlin, before heading back to Canada, I got an email from James about a pipe he was in the process of carving. Here is a portion of that email “…I got the urge to do a Speckled Egg… I’ll send you pictures once it’s done… absolutely zero obligation… I just like making the shape… you have first dibs on it if you want”. I could not believe he was already working on one of the shapes I had mentioned. I have to tell you I was really looking forward to seeing the photos of the pipe that he would send.

I spent Friday in the air between Berlin and Vancouver and thus totally out of the loop for emails. When I arrived back in Canada though, I had an email waiting for me with the first photos of the new pipe he was working on. It is shown in the photo below of a group of four that he is currently working on. The pipe that I was interested in is on the bottom left of the photo below.JSEC1 Included with that photo were several other photos showing the new pipe with the one that he had been smoking when we had coffee together. He wrote the following, “As you can see the bowl is more defined… I placed the other in the pic for comparison… I can bring in the shank side of the bowl a tic more if you prefer that, but it sits really nicer in the hand than the original…This is the how the shape has morphed over the years… I have several… It’s my favorite shape…” With those words and the photos he had me. I wanted this pipe to be mine.JSEC2

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JSEC4 Once I had decided that this was the pipe for me James sent me some choices for the stem material. In the above photos he used a black Ebonite and that was beautiful but I had also seen some of his Cumberland stems. There was a particular Cumberland that he had used on other pipes that I liked. It was a Briar Cumberland. That is what I decided to go with and a stain colour that would match. James sent me the following email after I made my choices: “You won’t be disappointed (with the briar Cumberland)… It’s beautiful material… Me and one other guy are the only ones I know using it a lot 😉 The black is a classic color and you can’t go wrong with it, but Cumberland stems are my favorite… I got a lot of criticism from the U.S. Makers early on because of it… Makes me chuckle now… Since they started using different Cumberland mixes in the last year or two. Have a great rest of your weekend… I’ll send you some progression pictures when they warrant it… James”.

Now the wait began. I was looking forward to the updates on the pipe that would come via email. I have to tell you that James letting me be a part of the process of the birth of this pipe was a special bonus for me. I was excited to see how the pipe would develop when he sent the next installments.

I did not have to wait too long. On Sunday morning (Vancouver time) I woke to several more emails from James. These all included updates and photos of the pipe. It had been stained with his contrast colour stains. It looked very similar to the pipe he smoked while we were together in Stuttgart. The newly cut Briar Cumberland stem looked amazing. I could not wait to see it polished. I loved both the shape and the colours of the pipe and stem. The swirls on the Cumberland stem are very similar to the stem on a pipe I had made by Todd Bannard of Briar Sweat and Tears http://www.briarsweatandtears.com/. James included the following message with the photos: “Getting closer… Wait until the stem is polished and bent… ;-)”JSEC5

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JSEC8 I wrote James about my excitement at the look of the stem and the pipe. I really liked the way the Cumberland stem had come out and noted that. James replied, “I told you the briar Cumberland is nice… wait till it’s polished up… it will almost match the colors of the pipe itself”.

The next morning when I opened my email there was another email from James that included five more update pictures of the polished stem. He wrote: “I think you’ll be pleased with the stem… I love this material… And it shines up really nice… and has an awesome pattern on it.”

Once again I wrote back letting him know that the pipe was amazing in my book and I was very pleased. I asked him about the dimensions and he responded with a few more pictures and the dimensions of the pipe. Here are the dimensions:

Length: 5″ 127mm
Width: 1 5/8” 41mm
Height: 2″ 51mm
Bowl depth: 1 3/8” – 1 ½” 35-37mm depending on where you fill it to
Weight: 56 grams

James also wrote: “I normally coat my bowls on all my pipes… but if you don’t want the bowl coated, I’ll need to know before the weekend… I don’t mind leaving it bare for you… I’m pretty sure you know how to smoke a pipe… Ha, ha. James.” I wrote back and asked that he leave it bare for me.JSEC9

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JSEC13 The rest of the week went past quickly with no updates. I knew James put a finish coat on the pipe to set the stain and then did some more polishing. Whatever the process was he said it took about a week before the pipe was completed. Then on Good Friday I received an email that the pipe was finished. James included the following information in his email: “Steve it’s done…. 😉 I like the way the colors came out… Would you like it mailed via German Mail…I can do that tomorrow… or US Mail…that will have to wait till Monday… the German mail should be quicker by a day or two…would be mailed as an international letter… works like a charm each time.”
James included the following finished photos of the pipe to make me salivate. I can’t wait to see it in person. I paid James via PayPal, sent him and email that German mail would be fine. He sent me a notice that the payment came through and a tracking number to trace the shipment.JSEC14

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JSEC23 I have to tell you, I have checked that tracking number on the postal site every day since he sent it to see the progress of the pipe from Stuttgart to Vancouver. Can’t wait until I hold it in hand and see firsthand the workmanship that James puts into his pipes. I am already scheming what tobacco tp break it in with. I have a bit of Mc Clellands 5100 mixed with some Perique that has about 5 years or more in the jar. That may well be my break in smoke. We shall see.

One of the surprises found in the craigslist lot – A Castello Sea Rock 15AF


Blog by Steve Laug

One of the surprises in the craigslist lot I purchased was a Castello Sea Rock 15FA military mount billiard. When I saw the photos in the seller’s advertisement I only saw a rusticated billiard and in the way it laid in the pipe rack it was unclear it was a military mount or a Castello. When I got it home and looked at the assortment I was surprised to see that it was indeed a Castello Sea Rock. It is shown in the photo below – the third pipe down on the right side.craig5 I think this must have been a pipe the seller loved as it was well smoked. There was still a bowl of tobacco unlit in the depths of the bowl. The cake was quite uneven but was thick around the top of the bowl. The rim was overflowing with tars and oils to the point that it had clogged the rustication on the top. It was higher in some places than others from the buildup. The outer edges of the rim were knocked about to the degree that it was work and there were scratches and stain missing from the edges. The stem was dirty on the end like it had sported a softie bit and had some calcification on it. There were also tooth marks on the topside and underside of the stem near the button. The button itself had some damage and scratches. The tenon end was also covered with a buildup of calcium on the end around the insert in the end cap.Cas1 The stem had the “diamond” inset on the side that showed that it was originally made for the North American Market. I did a bit of research and found some information on the stem logo. I quote: “American logo’d Castello pipes use a small round “Diamond” (referred to and looking like, but it is NOT actually a diamond) inlaid into the mouthpiece. This was originally done so that the standard Castello white bar logo did not conflict with another brand and logo that was sold by Wally Frank called the “White Bar Pipe” (in the 1950’s).” I also found that “The SEA ROCK [Carved Black or dark brown] is the lowest grade of the Castello line and is the most common in the USA. Sea Rocks are produced by taking a smooth bowl that has not been “final finished” and surface carving the finish with tools. This “carved” finish is then evened out using a steel wire brush, stained and then waxed.” This information was found and condensed from the PCCA Castello Grade & Style Guide – by Robert C. Hamlin (c) 1988, 1992, 1994.Cas2

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Cas4 The two photos below show the buildup on the rim more closely. The thick tars and oils over flowed on the top of the rim. You can see that the rustication is buried under the lava.Cas5

Cas6 The next two close up photos show the stem with the bite marks on the top and the bottom side and the calcification on the surface of the stem. In the second photo there is also buildup around the insert end of the stem.Cas7

Cas8 I reamed back the cake to bare wood to remove the uneven surface with a PipNet reamer. I started with the second cutting head and finished with the third cutting head.Cas9

Cas10 I used a brass wire brush and a dental pick to work on the tars on the rim. I scrubbed it and then used a tooth brush to put Murphy’s Oil Soap on the rim. It softened the tars enough that I scrubbed it again with the wire brush and picked at it with the dental pick. I rinsed off the soap with running water and then dried the bowl.Cas11

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Cas14 I restained the worn areas on the top of the rim and the outer edges with a Guardsman Stain pen. I used the dark stain pen as it matched the rest of the bowl. Once I had touched up the stain I rubbed the top of the rim with a cotton cloth to blend the stain into the rest of the rim colour.Cas15

Cas16 I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the tooth chatter and the tooth marks. I also sanded the stem to remove the calcification. I then sanded it with a medium and fine grit sanding sponge to reduce the scratching.Cas17

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Cas19 I sanded the stem with micromesh sanding pads. I wet sanded with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanded with 3200-12,000 grit pads. I rubbed the stem down with Obsidian Oil between each set of three pads.Cas20

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Cas22 I also polished the edges of the end cap to remove the worn areas on the surface. I fit the stem back into the shank and hand polished the stem with a cotton polishing cloth. I gave the bowl a coat of Halcyon II wax and buffed it with a shoe brush. The photos below show the pipe after the buff with the brush.Cas23

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Cas26 The next close up photo shows the stamping on the pipe. It is stamped CASTELLO over SEA ROCK BRIAR on the flat portion of the shank bottom. To the left of that stamping it reads MADE IN CANTU over ITALY and to the left of it is the number 15 over AF. The end cap is also stamped HAND MADE over CASTELLO over 5.Cas27 The next series of photos shows the finished pipe. I lightly buffed it with a soft flannel buffing pad. It raised the shine on the briar. I buffed the stem with Blue Diamond and then gave the stem several coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the entire pipe lightly with the clean soft buff.Cas28

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Cas32 After looking at the finished photos I decided to give it a light rubdown with olive oil. I wanted to enliven the finish and what better way than to add some Italian Olive Oil to and Italian briar.Castello1

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ADDENDUM: I wrote this while wondering about the 15 AF stamping. I knew that the 15 was the shape stamp but the AF threw me for a loop. I posted on both Smokers Forums and Pipe Smokers Unlimited Forum and asked for help. Many offered suggestions. Several said to write Mike Glukler of Briarblues so I did that. Mike replied fairly quickly that he had no idea about the mystery stamp but sent it on to Marco at Novelli, and Castello collector Dave Peterson. Dave replied that he believes that it stands for Army Fitment. He went on to say that the newer army fit pipes that he has have the letter (SC) size designation and have no AF suffix so he assumes the AF stamp was discontinued in the early 60’s. He also said he would check with some others. So it seems I have a tentative answer regarding the stamping.

ADDENDUM 2: Bill on Pipe Smokers Unlimited wrote to Castello and asked them what the stamping meant. He posted their response this morning:

“Steve here is the Castello response and I think you will be quite pleased and surprised.

Dear Customer,
thank you for your inquiry,
the number stands for the shape 15, the billiard. Then “A” stands for
“amici” = friends, “F” stands for flock.
That is a pipe given to friends (read “not for sale”) with a flock. I
hope it helps.”

You got to love the pipesmoking community and the wealth of information available to us if we ask.