Tag Archives: Paradis pipes

Cleaning Up an Interesting Paradis Star Freehand Pot


Blog by Kenneth Lieblich

A fine gentleman from out east contacted me asking for this pipe to be restored. Naturally, I obliged and managed a relatively quick job on it. This is just a quick-and-dirty report because it was really more of a cleaning job than a repair job – and I missed out on a few photos. This pipe is a Paradis Star 72 Freehand Pot. The markings on the pipe are as follows: the left side of the shank read Paradis [over] Star; on the right side of the shank read the number 72 – the shape number; and on the left side of the stem was the word Filter. This pipe did indeed have a 6 mm filter and so that makes sense. I knew Paradis Pipes to be a Canadian pipe company, based in Montréal, but I went over to Pipedia and Pipephil to seek out more information. Here’s some of what I found (after correcting the many spelling errors):

Paradis Pipes is the Canadian brand of the brothers Gilles and Fernand Paradis. In 1922 the Paradis family moved to the USA, when Lucien Paradis (1906-1979) was 16 years old. It was at this age that he started as an apprentice at his uncle’s pipe factory: Joseph B. Desjardins, maker of (JD) pipes, in Fall River, MA. Joseph Desjardins was issued two patents during this period, one for a new machine for making pipe stems and another for a new design of pipe reamer. The company employed 60 workers at one stage. In 1930, due to the Great Depressions, Lucien lost his job and returned to Quebec to work in the agricultural machine industry. In his spare time, be made pipes, selling them door to door. Three years later the rest of the family joined him, and Lucien founded a pipe factory with two of his brothers. The company eventually employed 18 workers and in the 1960s produced over 50,000 pipes a year, under brads like JBL, Dr. Thomas, Fernand Gignac, S.C. Pipes, New London Golfer, and Jo Thomassin. Paradis was founded in 1978, at the Salon of Quebec Artisans, and is available in tobacconists all over the country today. The brand produces 8,000 pipes a year (400 “handmade”), with Greek briar.The pipe was in decent condition. It had been well-smoked, and the bowl and shank were fairly dirty. The bowl had some cake on the inside and a bit of lava on the rim. But there was clearly some burning there too. The brass ring around the bowl was in good condition, just a bit scratched up. Meanwhile, the stem was relatively dirty. It was made of acrylic, so no oxidation to speak of, but there were what I would describe as “typical” tooth scratches on the bit. Fortunately, no dents – but someone did leave a heavily used filter behind. Delicious. The stem was first on my list. I wiped the outside down with Murphy’s Oil Soap on some cotton pads. I cleaned out the insides with lemon-infused isopropyl alcohol and some pipe cleaners and cotton swabs.I then used all nine Micromesh pads (1,500 through 12,000 grit) to make the swirling colours of the stem’s acrylic shine again. I also used Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil in between each pad scrubbing (from 3,600 onward).

Now for the stummel. I reamed out the bowl to remove the built-up cake and followed that with 220-grit sandpaper taped to a dowel to eliminate as much as I could. I took the chamber down to bare briar, as I wanted to ensure there were no hidden flaws in the wall. Fortunately, there were none.I then proceeded to clean out the insides of the shank with Q-tips, pipe cleaners, and lemon-infused isopropyl alcohol. There was quite a bit of filth inside this stummel and it took a fair amount of cotton to get it clean. I used cotton rounds and some Murphy’s Oil Soap to wipe the outside of the stummel. I also used my toothbrush on the rim to see if I could lift some the burn marks there. Only so much was cleaned up. I followed that up by cleaning the insides of the stummel with some Castile soap and tube brushes. Next, I decided to de-ghost the pipe in order to remove any lingering smells of the past. I thrust cotton balls into the bowl and the shank and saturated them with 99% isopropyl alcohol. I let the stummel sit overnight. This caused any remaining oils, tars and smells to leach out into the cotton. The bowl was nice and clean after this.In order to safely remove the damage on the rim, I used a piece of 220-grit sandpaper wrapped round a wooden sphere. This effectively removed the damage, without altering the look of the pipe. This worked very well and I was pleased with the results. I tidied up some of the lost colour with one of my furniture pens. Then I sanded the rim down with all nine Micromesh pads (1,500 through 12,000 grit). I also made sure to use the Micromesh pads on the brass ring, in order to remove some scratches and bring back its shine. Finally, I applied some Before & After Restoration Balm and buffed it with a microfiber cloth. I then took the pipe to my bench polisher and buffed it with White Diamond and a few coats of carnauba wax. Wow – the pipe looks much improved.This unusual Paradis Star 72 Freehand Pot will suit the buyer very well and I’m sure that he will enjoy smoking it for many years to come. I hope you enjoyed reading the story of this pipe as much I as I did restoring it. If you are interested in more of my work, please follow me here on Steve’s website or email me directly at kenneth@knightsofthepipe.com. Thank you very much for reading and, as always, I welcome and encourage your comments.

Repairing and restoring a Paradis 1989 Freehand Dublin 93


Blog by Steve Laug

I picked up a lot of seven pipes from a craigslist seller in Vancouver. The first one I decided to work on was the Paradis with the broken tenon pictured at the top left in the photo below. craig5 It included quite a few nice pipes including this virtually unsmoked Paradis pipe. It was stamped Paradis in script and underneath that 1989 on the left side of the shank. On the right it was stamped 93. The pipe is Canadian made coming from Saintes-Foy, Quebec. Paradis pipes are made by two brothers. They sell their pipes on the Pipesworld website at this link. The prices are quite reasonable. http://www.pipesworld.com/pipes/search.php3?PIPEMAKER=Paradis&SEARCH=&x=29&y=4

NonameThe finish appeared to be a natural colour, unstained and clean though it was coated with at thick coat of Polyurethane. There appeared to be a deep scratch on the left side of the bowl near the top side. The tenon was snapped and stuck in the shank. Looking at it the tenon was threaded and it had snapped inside the stem. There was a portion in the stem. The stem was orange/amber coloured acrylic. It was stamped with a script “P” on the left side. From the looks of it the pipe had been smoked once and the stem broke during that initial smoke. There was a bit of darkening on the top ¼ inch of the bowl and the rest of it was raw briar. The stem was clean on the inside so I had a virtually unsmoked pipe to work on.

The broken tenon came out of the shank fairly easily. It was not stuck and there was some of the threaded portion of the tenon extending out of the shank. I was able to get a good hold on it with a pair of pliers and pull it out of the tenon. It had broken in the threaded area inside of the stem so it was going to be a relatively easy repair. The stem was not damaged so I could glue it into the stem and then fill in the gap around it with glue to give a solid repair. I cleaned the end of the break on the tenon piece and then put super glue on it. I pressed it into the stem and pressed the two parts together until the glue set. I filled the open area around the tenon with glue and pushed it down in the gap with a dental pick. I set the stem aside to dry.Paradis1

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Paradis3 I took the next photos of the pipe and stem as it was drying.Paradis4

Paradis5 On the left side of the bowl near the top was what appeared to be a large horizontal dent. In the photo below you can see the dent looking almost like a line on the briar. It was about 1 inch long and followed the curve of the bowl.Paradis6 I tried to steam out the dent using a damp towel and a hot butter knife.Paradis7 The next photo shows the look of the dent even more clearly. After steaming I examined it more closely and found that the dent had lifted and what remained was a run in the polyurethane coating that was on the bowl. It was like a long sag in the coating.Paradis8 I took the pipe back to my work table and sanded the sag in the finish with a medium grit sanding sponge. I knew that I would have to remove the entire polyurethane coat from the bowl to clean up the sag completely.Paradis9 I sanded the bowl and shank with a medium grit sanding sponge and then wiped it down with acetone on cotton pads to break through and remove the finish.Paradis10

Paradis11 It took a lot of sanding and scrubbing before the polyurethane finish was gone and a clean smooth briar surface remained.Paradis12

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Paradis14 When I finished cleaning up the surface of the bowl and removed the finish completely I set the bowl aside and addressed the stem. There were no tooth marks or chatter to deal with so all I had to do was polish the dull surface with micromesh sanding pads. I wet sanded with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanded with the 3200-12,000 grit pads. I buffed the stem with White Diamond to polish the acrylic.Paradis15

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Paradis17 I dry sanded the bowl with micromesh sanding pads using all of the grits to raise a shine in the briar and smooth out the surface of the briar.Paradis18

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Paradis20 I gave the bowl a light buff with Blue Diamond polish and did the stem separately. I gave the bowl and stem several coats of carnauba wax and buffed it with a soft flannel buffing pad to raise the shine. The finished, repaired and refinished pipe is shown in the next series of photos.Paradis21

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