Tag Archives: Hardcastle of London Pipes

Refreshing a Beautiful Hardcastle of London Straight Brandy 82

by Steve Laug

I have been working lately replacing tenons on bowls in my own work box. After 6 of them I am ready for something different. While I was in Florence, Italy I had received and email from Jack regarding some pipes that he had that needed some work. Here is his email.

I have a Dunhill from unknown era, a Hardcastle, and possibly a third pipe that could use your workmanship. If you’d like, I can send you pictures of the pipes so you know what condition they’re in. Please let me know the necessary details! — Jack

We chatted about that and I suggested he email me when I returned to Canada. He wrote back and asked me to work on not three but four pipes. He listed what he had and I thought these would be an interesting diversion from tenon replacement work.

Are you still willing to entertain restoring/refurbishing a few pipes? I have four in various stages of need, and I’ve attached pictures of each for your evaluation. I would be very grateful for anything that you could and would be willing to do.

1992 (?) Dunhill
Bertram 80
Hardcastle – This pipe looks very clean except for some pitting? fissures? in the chamber.
Dr. Grabow Supreme – This poor pipe… well, it’s a doozy.

Thank you very much! – Jack

I agreed and asked that he send them to me. Interestingly they arrived the day I finished the last of the tenon replacements. I unpacked them and they were indeed as interesting as his email had led me to believe. I am working on the fourth and final pipe listed in the foursome next – the Hardcastle with what appears to be pitting/fissures in the chamber. Here are the photos he sent to me of that pipe. I will give my evaluation of the work that will need to be done on the pipe as I walk through the photos with you.

The first two photos that Jack sent show the overall condition of the pipe. You can see from these photos that the bowl and rim top look very good. There is not a cake in the bowl and it makes me wonder if it is smoked much at all. The finish is dull but clean. The stamping on the left side of the shank has a shape number reads Hardcastle [arched over] of London. There is no stamping on the right side of the shank. On the underside of the shank it is stamped with the shape number 82. There is an unmarked band on the stem that I believe is nickel. It is lightly tarnished. The stem has a the Hardcastle “H” logo stamped on the left side. The stem is in good shape with no oxidation or tooth damage. The underside of the stem is stamped FRANCE.The next photo shows the fissure/flaw on the right side of the bowl about a 1/3 of the way down. The rest of the bowl looks very good. It also is very clean and appears to be raw briar that has not been smoked. I unpacked the pipes when they arrived on Thursday and went over each one. As I examined this one my observations based on the photos were confirmed. The one thing that was better was that the finish actually looked better in person than in the photos. There was some nice grain around the bowl that was a bit dull looking. The bowl was very clean as I had expected. The stamping on the shank was very readable. The stem looked as noted above. It had a few small scratches in the surface but was very clean. There was an aluminum stinger in the tenon. The stem was stamped on the underside and read FRANCE. Have a look at the photos below. I took close up photos of the bowl and rim top to show the condition of both. The bowl and rim top look very good. There is no damage to the edges – either inner or outer. The stem is in great condition with just a few scratches on the underside. It does not have any tooth marks or chatter on either side. I tried to capture the stamping on the shank sides to show their condition before my work. The H logo stamp is clear and readable in the first photo below. It reads as noted above. I removed the stem from the bowl and took a photo of the parts to give a sense of the symmetry of the pipe. It is a beauty. I was curious about the particular line of Hardcastle’s pipes that I was working on. I wanted some more information on the Of London line so I did some searching on Pipephil (http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-hardcastle.html). I including the short history of the brand as a whole from that site. The line itself was not present on the site.

1903: Edmund Hardcastle establishes the brand.

1936: the family sells 49% of the Hardcastle Pipes Limited shares to Dunhill.

1946: Dunhill buys the remaining shares. The family continues to manage the company.

1967: Dunhill merges Hardcastle with Parker. The new Parker-Hardcastle Limited company absorbs the Masta Patent Pipe Company.

I turned to Pipedia (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Hardcastle) to try to gather more information on the line. It gives a more detailed history of the brand but there is no mention of the Hardcastle’s Of London. I quote a section of the history below.

Hardcastle was founded in 1908 by Edmund Hardcastle and built itself a good reputation among the numerous British mid-graders. In 1935 Dunhill started to build a factory next door to Hardcastle in Forest Road, Walthamstow, London E17. The family owned Hardcastle Pipes Limited sold 49% of its equity to Dunhill In 1936.

Along with closing down its pipe factory in Notting Hill in 1946 Dunhill bought the remaining shares, turning Hardcastle into a 100% Dunhill subsidiary. As members of the Hardcastle family continued as executives in the company’s management Hardcastle retained a certain independence.

This ended in 1967. Dunhill merged Hardcastle with Parker (100% Dunhill as well). The new Parker Hardcastle Limited also absorbed the former Masta Patent Pipe Company. Hardcastle’s Forest Road plant was immediately given up and the production of Hardcastle pipes was shifted to Parker’s nearby St. Andrews Road factory – now consequently called Parker-Hardcastle factory.

In fact, this put a definite end to Hardcastle as an own-standing pipe brand, and none other than Edwin Hardcastle, the last of the family executives, spoke frankly and loudly of Hardcastle pipes being degenerated to an inferior Dunhill second.

Today Hardcastle pipes use funneled down bowls that are not deemed suitable to bear the Dunhill or even the Parker name (as well as obtaining briar from other sources).

With that bit of information, I believe it is a newer pipe but cannot prove it. The stamping and the FRANCE stamp on the stem point to the final paragraph above – bowls that are not deemed suitable for Dunhill or Parker name. My guess is that this pipe is from this period and was stemmed with a nice FRANCE stem.

The first photo below shows the damaged area noted in the above paragraphs. To start the work on it I wiped the bowl down with alcohol on a cotton pad to remove the stain that was on the walls of the bowl. Once the stain was removed the walls looked better. I sanded the bowl walls with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. I wiped the bowl walls once again with alcohol and cotton swabs to remove the sanding debris. The walls were flawlessly smooth. The previous presumed damage or flaw had disappeared with the washing and sanding! The third photo shows the smooth bowl walls. Too me that was amazingly good news. This unsmoked Hardcastle was flawless on the bowl walls. I scrubbed out the internals with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol to remove the debris and stain in the shank between the mortise and the entrance of the airway into the bowl. I wanted to remove the sanding debris from my work on the bowl. Once I worked on it the shank and bowl were clean. I decided to run some pipe cleaners through the stem at the same time.For protection of the bowl and to facilitate the building a cake on the walls I mixed a bowl coating of sour cream and charcoal powder. I mixed the coating together and put a pipe cleaner in the airway. I used a folded pipe cleaner to apply the mixture to the walls of the bowl. I coated it with the mixture, pulled out the pipe cleaner from the shank and set it aside to cure. I set the bowl aside to let the bowl coating cure. Once it cures the mixture is black and odorless. While it cured I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the finish of the bowl, rim top and shank with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect it. I find that the balm really makes the briar come alive again. I let the balm sit for 15 minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The bowl really looks good at this point. I polished the band with a jeweller’s cloth to remove the tarnish and polish and protect the silver. It looks very good at this point in the process. I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding it with 1500-12000 grit pads. I polished it further with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both fine and extra fine. This Hardcastle of London Straight Brandy – round shank with a vulcanite taper stem is a great looking pipe now that it has been restored. The beautiful grain that shines through the polished dark oxblood finish is stunning. I put the stem back on the bowl and carefully buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the buffing wheel and followed that by buffing the entire pipe with a clean buffing pad. I hand buffed the pipe with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished Hardcastle of London Straight Brandy fits nicely in the hand and feels great. Give the finished pipe a look in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 2 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 inch, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 44 grams/1.55 ounces. It is the fourth pipe from the lot that Jack sent me to work on. Now that all four are finished I will pack them up and send them back to him. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked over another beautiful pipe. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipemen and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of the next generation.

Three Cleanups for a Friend

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Guest Blog by Robert M. Boughton

Member, International Society of Codgers
Member, North American Society of Pipe Collectors
http://www.naspc.org
http://www.roadrunnerpipes21.biz under construction
http://about.me/boughtonrobert
Photos © the Author except as noted

How shall not the ministration of the spirit be rather glorious?
— 2 Corinthians 3:8

INTRODUCTION

As Chuck Richards, my good friend and mentor, has now worked his last official day at the local tobacconist where we enjoyed our pipes together on so many occasions – each of us often absorbed by our own thoughts – his presence is missed by many. Almost every time I visit the shop, I see customers come in, eager to pick Chuck’s mind on one thing or another concerning pipes, only to learn that he is no longer there. Then a young emeritus member of our pipe club, who moved away a couple of years ago to study engineering at Purdue, called a mutual friend and said he had some pipes that needed cleaning. When he asked for Chuck, our common friend referred him to me.

Soon after, I received an email from the young man, Joe Allen, who no doubt still looks too young to be smoking a pipe by the day’s legal standards. I found out Joe was concerned with three pipes he described as having excess cake and some rim burn and other typical problems he wanted cleaned up by someone he knows and trusts. I made him an offer he couldn’t refuse. No, I didn’t have to kill my friend’s horse and put its head in his bed; I have trouble picturing Joe atop that amazing species of animal, although for all I in fact know about him he could be a country boy who grew up on a farm with horses and cows and all the rest, and be outraged at the suggestion that he is in any way equestrian challenged.

All I knew about Joe’s present whereabouts was that he changed his major from engineering (thank God) and moved to Missouri to go to med school and become a surgeon. Now, that’s more the speed of the Joe Allen I remember.For Joe, I was tempted to tell him to send them to me with a return label so I could do the work for free. But then my senses returned. I just can’t keep cleaning and fixing my friends’ pipes without getting something in return other than the pleasure of working on their beautiful prizes! So we settled on $10 each, which included return postage. I didn’t even have a clue as to the kind of pipes Joe was sending me, except of course that they were designed for tobacco.

For that and other reasons, I was excited when the insured box arrived at my Post Office several days later, $30 in cash tucked with a note in an envelope stashed inside. When I got to my car, I used my handy flip knife to open the well-wrapped package that was padded with the exceptional care for the precious cargo one would expect from a future surgeon. I knew from the layers of bubble wrap that stuffed the small USPS Priority Mail box, and in particular upon finding the three pipes in question wrapped in smaller taped pieces of the same material, that they were cherished and adored by Joe. I was honored that he entrusted his treasures to me and determined not to disappoint him.

Anyone who knows me, even if only from my blogs here, might have guessed that I had to get a look at the pipes right then and there. With complete respect and care for the contents, I removed each of the neat little bubble-wrapped pipes one at a time. I was surprised and pleased by the variety.

The first was a Hardcastle of London rustic bent billiard #45 of a beautiful, dark red color. There are two stamps on the bit, an H on the left side and, in capital letters across the underside where it meets the shank, the word France. I can find no mention of French made Hardcastles and suspect this may have been from a convenient bit supplier. Steve confirms my guess. But the fine briar smoker was in excellent, almost new condition that appeared to present no problems, although of course one popped up that I will describe later.

The second was a very nice Dr. Grabow smooth straight billiard with the name Bucko and a yellow spade on the left side of the bit. My first impression of the Bucko, other than its wonderful vertical grain around both sides and the back and a nice birds-eye on the front, was that the bit seemed to be a replacement, as it was not flush with the shank opening. I was happy, though, to see the bit rather than the shank was too big in places, just right on both sides and only extended too far on the top and bottom. I knew I could fix that.

Then came the last pipe, and I even guessed the brand from feeling the shape through the bubble wrap: a classic K&P Peterson of Dublin System Standard smooth bent billiard. Admiring it, I was startled when the bit popped out in one of my hands holding it with reverence. Giving it an easy slight twist back into the nickel banded shank, it did it again. And again. Well, I ventured to guess, this little beauty was going to be an interesting challenge.I could not wait to get to work on them, having estimated a two-day turn-around. First, of course, I had to stop by the tobacconist for a little relaxation and contemplation while I puffed one of my own pipes and studied Joe’s excellent set awaiting my gentle ministrations. All of them, which were nowhere near as dirty or caked-up as Joe indicated, presented interesting challenges nevertheless.

RESTORATIONS – DR. GRABOW BUCKO For all the nasty talk about the brand, I have to admire the appealing visual twists on classic shapes that Dr. Grabow will throw into some of its designs, in particular the older ones. Take this billiard, for example, with the unusual oblong aspect of the tapering shank. At a glance, the problems that presented with the stout little Bucko were all minor. There was slight rim darkening, far less than average chamber char, and a small amount of the original stain on the top of the shank that appeared to have been applied with some haste resulting in a shiny patch where heat drew out the liquid, which then re-dried. Then again, perhaps the Bucko’s stummel had faded everywhere else, and that little area was all that remained of the factory finish. Another possibility is that whoever chose the replacement bit prepped the wood for a refinish that for whatever reason was never applied.Closer inspection reaffirmed the theory of a replacement bit that was added without quite enough attention to detail, although the sides were perfect. Again, only the top and bottom were misaligned. I began with the rim, which came clean after firmer than usual rubbing with superfine “0000” steel wool, and went for my usual approach on the chamber: I used my Senior Reamer before sanding, first with 150-grit paper, then 180, 220 and 320. I decided I might as well get the only real challenge with the Bucko out of the way and regarded the bit.I started with 220-grit paper to take off the excess Vulcanite on the top and bottom, but that got me nowhere. I reached for the 180, and about a half-hour later was done with the fitting task. I tossed the scratched bit in a preliminary OxiClean wash. The scratches came off with wet micro meshing from 1500-12000. I took a close look at the scratches on the stummel. With only the steel wool and the full range of micro mesh, wiping the wood with a soft cotton cloth between each grade, I was able to give the briar a nice, even smoothness. I retorted the pipe with Everclear.

After using the electric buffers to apply red and white Tripoli, White Diamond and carnauba to the bit and all of the same except for the red Tripoli to the stummel, here is the finished Bucko. PETERSON SYSTEM STANDARD I started by reaming and sanding the chamber and dispensing with the light rim char. After giving my Senior Reamer a few turns in the chamber, I used 150-, 180-, 220- and 320-grit papers to make it ultra-smooth, but the steel wool was not enough to do the trick with the rim so I used a light touch of 320-git paper for the rest of the burns there. As the second photo below shows, it turned out quite well. There were some scratches and light pocks on the stummel that I eliminated by lightening the color of the stummel somewhat with steel wool. Then I applied Fiebing’s Brown boot treatment to the stummel, let it cool and removed the thin layer of residue with 12000 micromesh. The bit that appeared at first to be loose worked itself out somehow, maybe with the retort I did next. And that was it, other than buffing the wood with white Tripoli, White Diamond and carnauba. This was the only time I didn’t need to do anything to the bit. HARDCASTLE OF LONDON Just to shake things up a bit, as I never start with the bit, that’s what I’m going to do. Besides, this one is so easy, I might as well get the hardest part out of the way.

When I removed the bit the first time, I noticed it was so tight it wouldn’t budge. Afraid of breaking either the tenon or part of the shank, I followed one of Chuck’s first lessons to me. Grasping the bit firmly in one hand – prepared to stop if I felt one more hint that a foreign substance was making the two parts stick – I turned the stummel with my other hand. The sound was awful, but the parts came loose with a slowness I didn’t rush. All that was needed to loosen the bit so it was easy to turn into the shank was a couple of tight turns of steel wool around the tenon.

The discoloration is shown just as it in fact appeared with my own eyes for once, rather than the camera’s POV. In my opinion, just as a camera will add a few unwanted and unfair pounds to humans, so will it give a more flattering gloss to Vulcanite than the material often deserves. I gave it an OxiClean bath for about a half-hour. And here it is after the bath and a brisk rub down with a soft cotton cloth.After wet micro meshing from 1500-12000, buffing on the wheel with red and white Tripoli, White Diamond and carnauba, and re-filling the empty H with a white china marker, this is the final result.I reamed and sanded the chamber and rid the rim of dark marks. I used the same approach as the first two pipes on the chamber, and again, only steel wool was needed for the rim. All that was left before the final buff was to retort the pipe, and as always, I was glad I did.Coating the already beautiful, rusticated red briar with Halcyon II wax, I set it aside to dry before wiping it down with a soft cotton cloth. I was almost sad to be finished. CONCLUSION