Daily Archives: November 24, 2019

Sprucing up an Unsmoked Peterson’s Sterling Made in Ireland 5 Billiard


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe I have chosen to work on is an unsmoked Peterson’s Sterling Billiard. It has a Sterling Silver band around the shank that is tarnished and oxidized. The bowl is raw briar on the inside and unsmoked. There are some obvious fills around the bowl and shank that are ugly in appearance to my mind but they are sound – one on the back, one on the left side of the bowl and the third on the left side of the shank. The exterior is also covered with a shiny coat of varnish that would need to go in my opinion. The stem was in decent condition – it had just lost a bit of its shine. Kind of an anomaly – a shiny plastic looking finish on the bowl and a dull looking stem. The pipe was stamped on the left side of the shank and read Peterson’s Sterling. On the right side it is stamped with the Made in Ireland in a circle and the number 5 identifying the shape. It is an interesting pipe. I took photos of the bowl and rim top to show unsmoked condition of the bowl and rim top. It was truly a pristine looking bowl – and it did not have a bowl coating so that was even a bonus. The silver band was quite oxidized and it was impossible to identify the markings on the silver. I took photos of the top and underside of the stem showing the clean and pristine condition of the stem surfaces.     I took the stem out of the shank and was a little surprised by the stinger in the tenon. I don’t know if it was original or had been added somewhere along the way. It too was very clean. It was removable so I took it out of the tenon and took a photo as well. I checked on Pipephil’s website to see what I could learn about the stamping on the pipe. I found the following information that I quote:

The country of manufacture stamp changed from “Made in Eire” to “Made in Ireland” (In circle) about 1945 (this pipe). Later (1947-49) it became “MADE IN IRELAND” (block letters) stamped in one or two lines (http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-peterson.html).

I turned to Pipedia’s article on Peterson pipes to see what I could garner from that information. It is a great read in terms of the history of the brand (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Peterson#1950_-_1989_The_Republic_Era). In a section on

Prior to 1920 it was rare for a country of origin to be stamped on the pipe, just Peterson’s Dublin on the band. After 1921/22 if it is stamped “MADE IN IRELAND” and the “Made in” is stacked over “Ireland” or “MADE IN EIRE” or several other forms, it was made between 1922 and 1938. A considerable number of Peterson pipes were stamped “Irish Free State”. From about 1930 to 1949, most of the pipes (those which were stamped) were stamped “Made in Ireland”.” If the stamp reads “MADE IN IRELAND” in a circle, the pipe was made between 1939 and 1948. These are all “prerepublic” pipes.

I then turned to the book I should have consulted first, The Peterson Pipe, by Mark Irwin and Gary Malmberg. On page 155 I found some information on the line.

Peterson’s US distributor during the early Republic era was Rogers Imports, Inc., a New York firm whose catalogs offered all varieties of smoker’s products. Rogers was the exclusive wholesale dealer for several prominent European pipe manufacturers, they also marketed accessories under their own name. On behalf of Kapp & Peterson they registered the Killarney, Shamrock and Sterling trademarks with the US Patent Office in the 1950s, and their catalogs also featured the System, Premier Selection and Supreme.

On page 156-157 in the same book there is a catalogue page with the Sterling shown on it. It sold for $7.50 in 1953. It read:

As the name implies the Sterling quality of this fine pipe is distinguished in a careful selection of its fine Mediterranean Bruyere, its careful workmanship and sparkling finish. Banded with a Sterling Silver band – a Hallmark of quality – the pipe is available in a handsome natural or dark rich walnut finish. Patent P-lip stem. Individually boxed.

With that information in hand I knew what I was dealing with in terms of the stamping on the pipe. It is a late Pre-republic era or early Republic era pipe. The circular Made in Ireland stamp on the right side of the shank tells me it was made between 1939-1948. It showed up in Peterson Catalogue in 1953 and it seems that the pipe has remained unsmoked since the late 40s early 50s.

Now, on to the restoration of this beautifully grained Peterson’s Sterling 5 billiard. The fact that it was an unsmoked pipe meant that I really did not need to clean the pipe. I decided to start the process by addressing the oxidation/tarnish of the Sterling Silver band on the shank. I wiped the band down with a jeweler’s cloth to remove the tarnish. It has three hallmarks stamped toward the top of the left side followed by Sterling Silver and Peterson Dublin. The hallmarks seem to be K&P though they are worn.The bowl had a thick coat of varnish on the surface that was shiny and in some places slightly wrinkled. I wiped the bowl down with a cotton pad and isopropyl alcohol to soften the finish. I wet sanded the briar with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped the bowl surface down with a damp cloth to remove the sanding dust. Once I finished the exterior of the briar was clean of the shiny varnish coat and the grain really stood out.  After sanding the bowl and removing the finished I rubbed it down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the surface of the briar with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect it. I let the balm sit for a little while and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. Mark Hoover’s Balm is a product that I have come to appreciate and one I use on every pipe I have been working on.  The stem was in very good condition and appeared to be original. It did not have a “P” logo on stem side or top. I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. Once I had finished the polishing I gave it final coat of oil and set it aside to dry.     As usual at this point in the restoration process I am excited to be on the homestretch. I look forward to the final look when it is put back together, polished and waxed. I put the bowl and stem back together. I polished the bowl and stem with Blue Diamond to polish out the scratches in the briar and the vulcanite. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The pipe polished up pretty nicely. The grain really pops with the wax and polish. The shiny black vulcanite stem is a beautiful contrast to the browns of the bowl. This Peterson’s Sterling 5 Billiard a great pipe to spruce up. The Sterling Silver Band around the shank is a great contrast between the browns of the briar and the black of the vulcanite. It is a nice piece of briar whose shape follows the flow of the grain. It is a very comfortable pipe to hold in the hand. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. This beautiful pipe will be going on the rebornpipes store if you would like to add it to your collection and be the first to smoke it. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I worked on it. This is an interesting estate to bring back to life.

 

 

A Friend’s Second Commission: Rejuvenation of a Carey Magic Inch Pat. 3267941 Apple


Blog by Dal Stanton

This is my first time working on a Carey Magic Inch pipe, but it has a reputation for being a uniquely American made pipe with bold claims of having secured ‘Pipedom’s’ holy grail, “The cooler and dryer smoke.” The Carey Magic Inch came to me from a good friend, Dave Shane. I worked with Dave when we were both younger men – he much younger than I(!), in Ukraine, a pipe man and restorer himself (see: https://www.thepipery.com). When I was in the US a few years ago I visited Dave and he gifted me a box of pipes that he hoped would benefit the Daughters of Bulgaria – women and girls we work with here in Bulgaria who have been trafficked and sexually exploited. The Carey Magic Inch was in this trove for the Daughters. Later, after posting pictures of these pipes in my online collection, ‘For “Pipe Dreamers” ONLY!’, another friend of mine of many years, Steve, saw the Magic Inch Apple and commissioned it along with a French GBD Sablée Standard, a beautifully blasted bent Billiard which I have already restored (A Long-time Friend Commissions a Blasted French GBD Sablée Standard Bent Billiard). Here are original pictures of the Carey Magic Inch Apple now on the worktable. The nomenclature on the left shank flank is ‘CAREY’ [over] ‘MAGIC INCH’ [over] Pat. No. 3267941 – the governmental protective seal of the ‘Magic Inch’.  When I first unpacked this pipe to take these pictures, I was intrigued by the vents and filters and how all this pipe wonder worked!  The stem pictured above has the characteristic raised box ‘C’ marking its Carey provenance.  When I first saw it, I pressed the box thinking that it was a button or slide that somehow adjusted the vents and potential louvers that I thought might be hiding somewhere.  But it doesn’t work anything. Along with the gold shank divider ring, it decorates the stem.Pipedia’s information is scant but provides several pictures of different Magic Inch pipes:

The “Magic Inch” System has been a Carey’s tradition for over 50 years, with over 1,000,000 sold. The “Magic Inch” is an air chamber inserted between the imported briar bowl and the vented mouthpiece which allows cool outside air to enter and mix with the warm tobacco smoke inside the “Magic Inch” chamber. Tobacco tars, oils and moisture, are squeezed out of the smoke. The residue drops to the bottom of the chamber and is absorbed by the Papyrate sleeve. From its rich tradition and thousands of satisfied customers, this pipe is sure to be your smoking favorite for life.

The Pipedia article also provided the US based website for Carey pipes.  I found an article there printed with permission from PipesandTobaccosMagazine.com by William Serad with William Miller, who came into possession of E. A. Carey in 1982.  The article is a good resource which traces the history of the E. A. Carey company from 1948 to 2018, including patent diagrams and descriptions.  The article by Serad begins with comments about the sales pitches that became a Carey gimmicky trademark – “Try my pipe for 30 days” with an offer that if you weren’t pleased with the pipe you could take a hammer to it and return it for a full refund!  Serad’s article begins:

In the great American tradition of everyman briar pipes, many names come to mind: Dr. Grabow, Yello-Bole, Kaywoodie and Medico, among others. To me, the one with the most attention-getting advertising was always the E.A. Carey pipe: “Try my pipe FREE for 30 days. If you don’t like my pipe, smash it with a hammer and send me the pieces.”

That second part became, “If you don’t like it for any reason, just return it to E.A. Carey for a 100 percent refund, no questions asked.” What an offer! Plus, the pipes feature the famous Carey Magic Inch, a unique smoking system protected by U.S. Patent 3,267,941.

The article describes the birth of the Carey Magic Inch starting in 1952 when the original patent was issued (work started in 1948) for a ‘smoking device’ to Max J. Doppelt of Chicago.  The original design was not successful, but through development the current patent. No. 3267941 was secured in 1966 with the design that hasn’t changed since.  Instead of wholesaling the Magic Inch, Doppelt started the practice of direct mail order which continues to this day with people purchasing the pipes directly from E. A. Carey.  In reading the article, I was also interested to read that not to complicate Doppelt’s life, the Magic Inch was only produced as a straight Billiard shape in those days.  At that time, the pipes were made for Doppelt by Comoy’s of London.  What stands out as the hallmark of this period was the over the top sales marketing that appealed to the ‘everyday man’ and the sale of the E. A. Carey Magic Inch pipe grew.

On the ‘info’ page of the E. A. Carey website, I clipped this entire section to include in this write up.  My initial intrigue with all the ‘bells and whistles’ of the pipe was punctuated with the question, ‘How does this pipe work?’ Of course, the E. A. Carey sales pitch hype is rife throughout, but I believe the years of unchanged design and the fact that it still enjoys a sizable market share, provides the space for some bragging rights!The E. A. Carey Magic Inch Pat. No. 3267941 on my worktable, I’m calling a ‘refresh’ because it appears to have been smoked maybe once or a very few times.  It shows only a very small darkened lighting burn spot on the rim (marked below), but essentially no residue in the chamber that I see.  Looking at the stem, there are only scratches and blemishes that would result from being in a drawer or in an old collector cigar box for a time.  One question that I have as a restorer is the finish on the stummel.  The grain is very attractive, but the finish seems to be an acrylic which I’ve described as a ‘candy apple’ finish that hides the natural briar shine.  This is common from factory mass produced pipes.  I take a few pictures looking at these areas now on my worktable. Before starting the work, since I have never worked on a Carey Magic Inch before this, I wasn’t sure that I could remove the mortise insert – on the diagram above, it doesn’t provide any clues.  Since its plastic, I don’t want to risk damaging the pipe.  I decide to look at rebornpipes to see what Steve’s experience has been with the Magic Inch.  I’m glad I looked!

From the restorations I looked at he did a few years ago, he had quite a time working on the stems of these restorations.  The restorations were from the same haul Jeff Laug had secured from Montana and sent on to Steve for restoration.  The first was a freehand, Carey Magic Inch Freehand Briar Pipe, that set the stage for the next Magic Inch from the same batch – Another Painful 70s Era E.A. Carey Magic Inch Apple Restored.  The second title says it all.  After reading the two blogs, it became evident that the material the stems are made of is a bear to sand and polish up.  Also, in Steve’s restorations, he left the mortise insert intact.  If that was his approach, that will be mine as well. In my E. A. Carey Magic Inch search on rebornpipes, Robert Boughton’s characteristic witty approach to blog writing was on display in his work on a Magic Inch he restored.  The write up had an excellent recitation of the Carey history including patent diagrams – worth the read if you want to lean more! (Conjuring a Makeover for a Carey Magic Inch)

After reading Steve’s ‘love/hate’ relationship restoring Carey Magic Inch pipes, I can be thankful that the pipe is in good shape from the starting gate.  However, my approach to the stem will require a bit more thought.  I begin by cleaning the internals of the stummel.  Using pipe cleaners alone wetted with isopropyl 95% I go to work.  I find that there’s no work to be done – totally clean. Also, additionally using cotton buds, the stem internals are clean as well.  It’s possible this pipe has never been smoked.Next, to clean the external briar surface, I use undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap with a cotton pad and scrub the briar.  After cleaning, I take the stummel to the sink and rinse it with tap water.  The surface was not that grimy but what I wanted to see was how the finish would react to the cleaning.  The finish dulled through the cleaning which clues me to know that the finish is not an acrylic based which is good. This allows me to preserve the patina but bring out the natural briar without the chemical acrylic overcoat to fight. With the finish not in bad shape, I simply want to spruce up the natural briar shine and remove minor scratches and nicks.  To do this I start with a medium grade sanding sponge and sand the stummel.  I follow this with a light grade sponge.  The briar of this Apple stummel is very attractive.Next, I run the stummel through the full regimen of micromesh pads.  Starting with pads 1500 to 2400, I wet sand.  Following this I dry sand using pad 3200 to 4000 and 6000 to 12000.  The progression is shown. The micromesh process reveals a very beautiful grain presentation on this Carey Magic Inch – this is not a second-rate swatch of briar.  To enhance the hues of the natural briar, I utilize Mark Hoover’s, Before & After Restoration Balm (www.ibepen.com).  I use this product because it teases out the subtle, deeper natural hues of the briar grain without getting in the way.  Placing some of the Balm on my finger, I work it into the briar surface thoroughly.  As I’ve described before, it starts as a crème-like substance out of the tube but thickens into a waxy consistency during application.  After applying, I set the stummel aside allowing the Balm to do its things.  The picture below is taken in the ‘absorbing’ state.  After about 20 minutes, I wipe off the excess Balm with a cloth and then buff it up with a micromesh cloth.Turning now to the feisty stem, I take a few fresh pictures aiming the reflection on the stem to magnify the issues of the plastic-like material the Carey stems are made of. I begin sanding focusing only on the issues I see, not wishing to sand where not needed.  I use 470 grade paper followed by dry sanding with 600 grade paper, then finishing this phase with 000 grade steel wool.  This approach seems to have done an adequate job, but some very small imperfections persist – a sparkling spot on the upper side persists. After repeating the process on the ‘sparkle zone’ with 470/600/000 and seeing no improvement in this area, I decide to leave well enough alone.  The picture below shows very small pits that persist.I move on to applying the full regimen of micromesh pads. My usual approach is to wet sand with the first 3 pads, 1500 to 2400, but this time around, I decide to stay on the dry side for this material only using Obsidian Oil between each set of three pads.  Following the first three, I follow with pads 3200 to 4000 and 6000 to 12000.  I like the results.  Along with Steve’s assessment in his dealings with Carey stems, I’m not a fan. The material is stubborn and does not easily give up its blemishes. After completing the micromesh phase, I rejoin the stem and stummel and apply Blue Diamond to the pipe.  I mount a cotton cloth buffing wheel to the Dremel, set the speed at 40% full speed and apply the compound. I pay attention to the one area on the upper stem that was not giving up a small area of speckling.  I sanded it, micromeshed it, and it continues to hold on.  I hope that the fine highspeed abrasion of the compound might help.Well, the speckling persists, but it is much diminished and not something to worry over.  I’m very pleased with the stem.  I use a felt cloth now to wipe off the excess compound that tends to cake and congregate along the edges of things.  I make sure this is removed before proceeding to the waxing phase.After changing to another cotton cloth buffing wheel mounted on the Dremel, maintaining the same speed, I apply a few coats of carnauba wax to both stummel and stem. After the application of the wax, I give the pipe a rigorous hand buffing to disperse excess wax as well as to raise the shine.

Without doubt, this Carey Magic Inch came to me in a passable condition, but now I believe its condition is better than new.  One’s first impression (or at least mine) of the quintessential patented American Carey Magic Inch is its bells and whistles with the ‘Magic’ hype.  Yet, without having ever tried the patented filtering system for myself, I must rely on the years that it has been in use.  Yet, there is nothing hyped about the quality of the grain of this Carey Apple stummel.  Wow!  The grain is almost without blemish.  I found no fills in it. The grain patterns are tight and dense with a varied swirl moving diagonally.  The heel of the flat underside is full of nicely woven bird’s eye pattern.  The Apple bowl is very happy to rest in the palm and to serve!  Steve saw and commissioned this Carey Magic Inch from the ‘For “Pipe Dreamers” ONLY!’ online collection and will have the first opportunity to claim it in The Pipe Steward Store.  This pipe benefits the Daughters of Bulgaria – women and girls who have been trafficked and sexually exploited.  Thanks for joining me!

Trying my hand a blending an English/Oriental Blend


Blog by Steve Laug

I guess it has been a couple of weeks now, maybe more when I had a visit with Alex and he gifted me some dried, uncut Basma leaf that he had purchased. When I got home I decided to try my hand at a blend. I had a tin of McClelland’s Blending Latakia that had been here for a while and some various and sundry Red Virginia and stoved Virginia that was sitting here. Most of those were Sutliffe blends. I emptied 25 grams of the remaining Latakia I had here + 25 grams of Virginia (no toppings) + 10 grams of chopped Basma leaf into a large bowl and mixed them together. Once I had them mixed well I put them in a large bail clasp glass jar and set them in a cool place to let the flavours meld. The photos below show the uncut Basma and a top and side view of the mixture. Now the wait began. I let it meld together for three weeks and decided to load a bowl and fire it up. I wanted to see if I had succeeded or made a mess! I used a Frankenpipe that I had put together for this first bowl. I tamped it down with a Morta and Black Palm tamper that was made for me by the late Ed James when he made a Morta pipe for me. I tamped the tobacco down and fired it up with my Bic lighter. I smoked the bowl while I was working on a restoration of one of Alex’s Malaga pipes.The smell of the tobacco in the bowl was inviting and multidimensional. When I lit the tobacco with the flame the flavour of the tobacco was very good. The blend tasted really fantastic. The sweetness of the Virginias, the smokiness of the Latakia and the sourness of the Oriental Basma combined for a really good smoke. I could only see this one getting better over time. I set the pipe aside that I was working on and just enjoyed the smoke. The flavours swirled in my mouth and left Virginia sweetness on my lips and gums and the Basma’s sourness was tasteful on the sides of my tongues. The smokiness rolled around the roof of my mouth and sides. The combination was a rich, flavourful smoke. I am going to enjoy this one as long as it lasts.

Restoring a Pair of Petite Peterson’s of Dublin Pocket Pipes


Blog by Steve Laug

I did a pipe repair on an old cased Bulldog for a fellow in Australia, Ray Choy. He sent the pipe and I repaired it and sent it back to him. He replied that he had a few pipes that were just too small for his liking anymore and he wanted to clean and ream them and send them to me. His email said that he would clean them up with the reamer and cleaning equipment he had. Once he had them cleaned and reamed he would send them to me for the finishing touches. The box arrived and I set them aside so that I could finish the clean up later. I decided to tackle the two small Peterson’s Pocket pipes that Ray had sent me. The first one is a Peterson’s of Dublin Belgique military mount and the second is a Peterson’s of Dublin Calabash military mount. Both pipes are stamped on the left side of the shank with the words Peterson’s Dublin. On the right side of the shank both are stamped Made in the Republic of Ireland. Neither one has a shape number on them and both have a vulcanite shank extension bearing the Peterson’s “P”. The stems were in good condition with no chatter or tooth marks. Both had some light oxidation.

Ray had done a great job on the reaming and the cleaning of the bowl and shank so I could literally just start with the finishing touches. The rim tops on both pipes had some darkening on the flat tops. The inner edges of both were damaged and slightly out of round. The outer edges were in great condition. There was some light oxidation on the vulcanite shank extensions. I took some photos of the pipe before I started putting the finishing touches on them. I took some photos of the rim top and bowl to show the condition of the pipes when they arrived. The bowls were very clean. Both rims had some darkening and the inner edge of both had some damage to them. The photos of the stems show the condition of both of them. They both are in excellent condition. I took photos of the stamping on both pipes. The first is the Belgique with straight shank and the second is the Calabash with the bent shank. You can see the clear stamping on both pipes. The left side shows the arched Peterson’s Dublin with a forked P and the right side shows Made in the Republic of Ireland. I have a 2010 Peterson Catalogue on rebornpipes that shows the various shapes that Peterson made. There is a page there on Specialty Pipes that shows the pipes that I am working on. The pipes pictured are different from the two that I am working on in that both of these are military mount stem. It states that the Belgique and Calabash are two petite and lightweight Peterson crafted with all the care and know how of century old pipe makers, from finest quality briar in red polish and rustic finishes with Fishtail mouthpieces only. However they are described in the catalogue the two shapes that are extremely lightweight. These two are not red polish but actually a rich matte brown finish. The fishtail mouthpieces are classic military mounts that can easily be removed to fit in the pocket. They represent the best micro-pocket pipe within the Peterson portfolio. I have included the noted page below (https://rebornpipes.com/2015/05/15/).I did a bit more digging on the Peterson Pipe Notes blog. There I found that Mark had included a photo of the various Speciality pipes. Peterson’s first put these four small pipes on the market in 1945 – Tankard & Barrel, Calabash & Belgique seen in the photo below.  Here is the link to Mark’s Blog (https://www.petersonpipenotes.org/tag/peterson-valentia-pipe/).I did a bit more digging and found some descriptions of the two shapes that I am working on. The various descriptions of the Belgique come from a variety of sites and the final one is quoted on the Brothers of Briar site.

…The Belgique is yet another extremely lightweight, petit pipe. It can be described as a tulip shape, and is fitted… and fishtail mouthpiece. A rich brown hue adorns the briar and makes for an attractive finish to this pocket companion.

…The Peterson Belgique Pipe is a straight cutty, which is a traditional shape derived from the old clay pipes. It is a small un-filtered pipe made from the finest Briar that Peterson have become renowned for. It has a smooth polished finish with a rich Brown stain to show of the natural grain pattern of the Briar.

…I have a pre rep Belgique love it. As you know the bowl is pretty large for the small pipe measuring 5/8″ ID and 1 1/4″ deep. My pipe is just shy of 6″ long and only weighs 11.7 grams. the bowl is not tapered which makes the capacity rather nice. Depending on what tobacco you load you will get a 30- 45 min smoke. The Belgique has thin walls so you have to sip very slowly and tamp more than usuall. The newer models hava a fishtail stem which i believe makes the newer pipes not as delicate as my military p lip. If you decide to get the Belgique I am sure you will not be disappointed. (http://www.brothersofbriar.com/t16010-anybody-familiar-with-peterson-s-belgique-model).

…The Belgique is one of our favorite shapes in the Peterson line up. Interestingly, while it was a serious mainstay of the brand in decades past, it sort of faded into obscurity for a few years there, before being seriously revived in the past decade. A particularly small shape, and sort of an oddity in Peterson’s shaping lexicon (a bit like Native American loan words in English), it nonetheless fits the timeless, elegant style for which Peterson is known and loved.             

I also found this description of the Calabash.

This particular Calabash represents the smallest pipe within the Peterson portfolio making it a perfect pocket pipe for a short smoke.  Finished here with a rich brown finish together with a… fishtail mouthpiece.

I started working on the pipes by cleaning up the rim top and the inner edge on the bowl of both of them. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to clean off the rim darkening. I used the folded edge to clean up the inner edge. I was able to bring the bowl back into round. I polished it with 400 grit wet dry sandpaper to take out the scratches. The rim tops were looking really good.   I polished exterior of the bowl and the vulcanite shank extensions with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad to wipe of the dust and polish it. I rubbed the bowls down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the briar and into the vulcanite shank extension to preserve, protect and enliven it. I let it sit on the surface of the bowls for about 10 minutes and then buffed the pipe with a cotton cloth. The photos tell the story. These pipes had some stunning grain on the bowls. I polished the vulcanite shank extensions with Denicare Mouthpiece Polish from a tin of it I have in the drawer here. It is a gritty red paste that I rub on with my finger tips and work into the surface of the stem and button and buff off with a cotton pad. It gives me a bit of a head start on the polishing work plus I have a tin to use up! I touched up the “P” stamp on the shank extensions with PaperMate liquid paper. I filled in the stamping with the liquid applying it with a dauber and a tooth pick. Once it dried I rubbed it off with a cotton cloth. The second  photo shows the stem before the polishing on the buffing wheel.I polished the stem with Denicare Mouthpiece Polish from a tin of it I have in the drawer here. It is a gritty red paste that I rub on with my finger tips and work into the surface of the stem and button and buff off with a cotton pad. It gives me a bit of a head start on the polishing work plus I have a tin to use up!I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine and buffed it off with a final coat of Obsidian Oil. This pair of Peterson’s Speciality Pipes is a great addition. The Belgique and the Calabash shapes are classic in every way. They are petite, lightweight and comfortable in the hand. They will be a short smoke. The briar is beautifully grained and the black vulcanite military/stick Fishtail stems go well with the briar and the vulcanite shank extension. I polished stems and the bowls with Blue Diamond polish on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowls multiple coats of stems multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipes with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed them with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The pipes polished up pretty nicely. The rich stained briar on both bowls took on life with the buffing. The rich brown colour of the briar bowls work well with the polished vulcanite stems. The finished pipes have a rich look that is quite catching. Have a look at it with the photos below. The shape, finish and flow of the pipe and stem are very well done.

The dimensions of the Belgique are Length: 6 inches, Height: 1 ½ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 inches, Chamber diameter: 9/16 of an inch. The dimensions of the Calabash are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 1/16 inches, Chamber diameter: 9/16 of an inch. I am pleased with how the pipes turned out. They look very good and show some signs of age. I am uncertain of the dates on either of them but am pretty sure they hold some age. I send my appreciation to Ray for these pipes. I think that these two will stay with me for a while and I will have to at least give them a smoke. We shall see what the future holds for them. Thanks for reading the blog.