Daily Archives: February 5, 2016

My Process for Re-Rusticating a Rim


Blog by Steve Laug

I recently wrote a blog on how I put a rusticated finish on a rim of a Savinelli Capri 121 pot. I thought it might be helpful to pull out the process of that rustication because the process is the same I used on this one as well as others that I have done. It is the simplest way I know to approximate the look/feel of a previously rusticated rim. It works on rims that have been topped as well as on damage or worn rims. The process is identical and you as the refurbisher make the decision how deep and how rustic you want the finish to look.

Process: For this example I will begin with a bowl rim that had been topped. The bowl happened to have been a rusticated Capri. Somewhere in its life someone had topped it. The job was well done but I wanted to bring it back to the original state.

1. I set out the Dremel and the various burrs that I use for the rustication. Two of them are standard Dremel burrs. Three of them are dental burrs that I got from a friend of mine.Capri14

2. I always start with a cylindrical burr. It is a cylinder with diagonal lines cut into the tip. The burr can be used straight on, on the side or diagonally. I used it on the diagonal to begin the process. I used it to scroll on the surface. I made swirls across surface of the topped rim. I always avoid the edges of the bowl – both inner and outer edge – with this first burr. The photo below shows the rim after these first cuts.Capri15

3. I changed burrs for the ball shaped burr. I used it deepen the grooves and trails and to move to the inner and outer edges of the rim. I roughened the surface and tried to randomize the rustication look. There are still smooth spots at this point but the finish is beginning to look as rough as the bowl sides.Capri16

4. I changed the burr again for a cone burr with a “pineapple like” cross hatch pattern. I worked over the surface of the rim randomizing the divots that I did with the ball burr and also cutting grooves and cross hatch patterns in the briar.Capri17

5. I changed the burr again for another cone burr – this one with a spiral pattern. I used it diagonally across the surface of the rim cutting grooves, connecting patterns. All of the switching and changing of burrs was to rusticate and randomize the pattern on the surface of the briar. I was working to get a pattern similar (yet different – almost a reverse of the bowl rustication) to the bowl.Capri18

6. I changed the burr again this time for a spiral that spun the opposite direction from the previous one. I worked over the rim using the burr straight on, diagonally and in places almost horizontally. At this point the rustication pattern shown below is getting close to the point where I will finish.Capri19

7. I put the cylindrical burr back in the Dremel and worked it diagonally between the low spots on the rim to connect the dots so to speak. I also roughened the inner and outer edge of the rim. Capri20

8. I used a medium brown stain pen to stain the high spots on the rustication.Capri21

9. I used a Sharpie Black permanent marker to stain the low spots on the rim surface and provide some contrast to the rim. The variation in colour would eventually match the stain on the bowl and give depth to the rustication.Capri22

10. I used a brass bristle tire brush to brush the surface of the rustication and knock off high points and loose briar. It also gives the surface a feathering look that smooths the rustication to match more closely that on the bowl sides.Capri23

11. I used the black Sharpie again to touch up the scratches left behind to add more depth.Capri24

12. I stained the rim with a dark brown stain pen thus adding the third stain colour to the rim surface. At this point I still was not quite happy with the look of the rim. The colour was right and the rustication was fine but there was something missing. On the bowl sides it was almost as if the maker had used a wire brush on a drill or wheel to cut fine lines in the surface of the briar over the rustication.Capri25

13. I would need to improvise as I did not have a stiff wire wheel or brush to use. I did have a serrated edge letter opener that would cut patterns across the surface easily enough and if I went at it from a variety of directions I could possibly achieve the look I was going for. So I used the letter opener and went to town to cut a stressed look to the briar on the rim. I followed that by lightly brushing it with the tire brush. Capri26

14. I repeated the stain process noted above using the three colours of stain in the same pattern to get the desired effect.Capri27

15. I gave the rim several coats of Conservator’s Wax and hand buffed it with a shoe brush. The finished rim is shown below. It has the look that I was aiming for when I started the process noted above. I have used this process on many pipes and it generally follows the same pattern. The difference lies in the depth and tightness of the pattern and the burrs that I choose to use to approximate the bowl rustication.Capri37

Conclusion: If you vary the burrs or introduce other burrs you can get a completely different pattern in the briar. I have used just the ball burr in the past to create a different look. The cylindrical burr creates a very tight pattern. The cross-hatched or pineapple burr can be used to create a light a deep cross hatched pattern. All of the burrs cut different patterns according the angle against the wood. You can use the burr vertically, horizontally or diagonally and create a wide variety patterns. Give it a try and see what you can create. Really the options and looks are as varied as you want to make them.

 

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Putting the Rusticated Rim back on a Savinelli Capri 121 Pot


Blog by Steve Laug

One of the gift pipes received from a friend when I repaired his pipe was a beautiful little Savinelli Capri 121 Pot. I love the finish on the Capris. There is something about the rusticated finish that adds a tactile dimension to the pipe that I thoroughly appreciate. This pipe was no exception. The finish on the bowl was in excellent condition though at some point in its life it had been topped. The typical rustication on the rim surface had been sanded smooth and the rim had been stained with a reddish brown stain. The internals of the pipe were very clean. The bowl had been reamed and the airway in the mortise was spotless. The stamping on the bottom of the shank was sharp and legible – it reads Savinelli Capri over Root Briar and the Savinelli shield and next to that the shape #121 over Italy.

The stem had seen better days but it was still repairable. It was oxidized and the gold stamping was faint on top of the saddle. There were tooth marks on the top and the bottom of the stem. The ones on top had been repaired and filled with a white looking epoxy. It was hard and smooth but it was white and it looked really bad with the brown oxidation on the stem. These would need to be removed and repaired when I worked on the stem. The tooth marks on the underside of the stem were not as deep and could easily be remedied by sanding the stem. The inside of the stem was also very clean. I took the following photos when I brought the pipe to the work table.Capri1

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Capri4 I took some close-up photos of the rim and the stem to show the condition of both. The topping job on the rim actually was very well done. The refinish on it was impeccable – no scratches or grooves, just a clean smooth surface. The stem shows the story I mentioned above. The top side view shows the repairs and the underside view shows the dents.Capri5

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Capri7 Taking care of the dents on the underside of the stem was an easy matter. They were not too deep so I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper and they disappeared.Capri8 The top of the stem was another matter. I wanted to remove the white repairs. I sanded the stem until they were four distinct repairs. Then I used the dental pick to pick away at the white epoxy repair until it was pitted and gave me a new divot to work with. I used some black super glue to refill the divots and cover the white that had been present before.Capri9

Capri10 I sprayed the glue with an accelerator and then sanded the repair with 220 grit sandpaper to blend it into the surface of the stem. In the next photo you can see that the white no longer was visible. The trick would be to keep it that way!Capri11

Capri12 Now it was time to address the rim. I was not sure about rusticating it because it actually looked quite fine the way it was. I went online and found a photo of a Capri that was the same shape and the rim was rusticated. I liked the look of the rim blending into the finish of the bowl. The decision was made. Now I had to work to get a similar look.Capri13 took out my Dremel and my assortment of burrs. I was pretty certain that I would use them all in the process of rusticating the rim with a deep and pebbled look.Capri14 I started with a simple cylindrical burr to carve some random swirls across the rim. I did this lightly at first and then deepened them. At this point I kept to the middle of the rim as I had ideas about rusticating the edges a little differently.Capri15 I followed that by using the ball burr to deepen the swirls and work on the inner and outer edges of the rim. At this point the surface was beginning to look good. But too me it was not rustic enough for the Capri finish on the bowl – it was too tame looking.Capri16 I used cone burr next with a cross hatch pattern to randomize the pattern even more and deepen the grooves in the surface and edges.Capri17 I next moved onto another cone burr with a spiral pattern and continued to work on the rim pattern. It was getting close to the point I was aiming for.Capri18 I used the last cone burr that had a swirl pattern in the opposite direction and went over the rim again to further accent the roughness.Capri19 I used the cylindrical burr to cut some of the lines between the divots and edges of the bowl and make it more craggy looking.Capri20 At this point in the process I was finished with the burrs and I put a coat of medium brown stain on the high points in the rustication using a stain pen. I followed that up with using a black Sharpie pen to fill in the divots and low spots on the rustication.Capri21

Capri22 I scrubbed the newly stained rim with a brass bristle brush to knock off some of the high spots and get a more burnished look like the bowl sides. I still was not happy with the stain so I used the sharpie again to darken the low spots and grooves. I then restained the rim with the dark brown stain pen. The colour was very close to the sides of the bowl.Capri23

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Capri25 I could have probably stopped there but I did not. I studied the photo of the rim above and noted that there were some striations or cuts in the surface of the rim that connected all the rustication and gave it a distressed look. I have a serrated edge letter opener here that I thought might work to give me more of that look. I cut the surface from every direction with the edge of the letter opener and carved and hacked it to distress it. I used the brass brush once again and then recut the rim with the opener.Capri26 I restained the rim with the black Sharpie and the dark brown pen. And then gave it a light buff on the wheel with Blue Diamond. I say light because if I had pressed any harder the polishing material would have gone into the grooves and made a mess. The rim looked good to me. The finish was done and all that remained was to wax it with some Conservator’s Wax.Capri27 I gave the bowl and rim several coats of Conservator’s Wax (works like Halcyon II on rusticated finishes) and buffed it with a shoe brush to polish and give a shine. I wet sanded the stem with 1500-2400 grit micromesh pads to begin the polishing process. It was tricky around the stamp on the shank so I had to work carefully with the pad to get as much of the oxidation as possible.Capri28

Capri29 I buffed the stem with White Diamond to further polish it and then sanded it with 4000 grit wet dry sandpaper to really work on the oxidation at the shank. It is a finicky part of the process because of the weak stamping. I rubbed the stem down with Obsidian Oil and then progressed to 3200-4000 grit micromesh pads. Another coat of oil preceded the final sanding with 6000-12000 grit pads. I gave the stem a final coat of oil and set it aside to dry.Capri30

Capri31 I buffed the pipe with a shoe brush and then with a microfibre cloth. I gave it several more coats of the Conservator’s Wax and polished it to a shine. I buffed the stem with Blue Diamond and gave it several coats of carnauba to protect it and then buffed the stem with a clean buff to raise the shine. I hand buffed the entirety one final time with a shoe brush and then took the finished photos below. This was a fun project. You can see that the white stem repairs have disappeared and the rustication on the rim fits the overall look of the pipe far better than the smooth finish that was there before. Thanks for looking. Capri32

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