Tag Archives: removing burn marks

Repairing and Minimizing a Burn Mark on a Bowl Rim


Blog by Steve Laug

When dealing with a burned or charred rim there are several issues that need to be addressed. First is how deep the burn goes into the briar and the extent of the damage. Second is how to remove or minimize the damage and bring the rim back to new without changing the profile of the pipe. In this case the bowl was clean on the inside. The burn was on the front outer edge of the rim and on the back inner edge of the rim. There was also a nick in the outer edge at 12 o’clock in the photo below. The back edge had buildup of tars and oils that masked the state of the rim at that point. I needed to remove those to see the damage to the back edge of the rim.AB4 Since I was intending to refinish the bowl and rim anyway I sanded the rim with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to remove the tars and oils and clean up the edges. I followed that by sanding with a medium and fine grit sanding sponge to further clean up the surface. In the photo below it is clear that the back inner edge of the rim is actually undamaged by char – it is merely darkened. The front edge damage is actually charred and the burn mark is both on top of the outer edge of the rim and on the front side of the bowl.AB9 I sanded the top of the rim, being careful to maintain the bevel on the top and also the outer edge of the bowl around the circumference. I was hoping to remove the damage as much as possible without having to top the bowl and rebevel the inner edge. As can be seen in the photo below I was able to remove some of the burn mark but not all of it. Looking at the bowl from the front I could also see a slight dip in the outer edge at the burn point. Continued sanding would have accentuated that dip and compromised the clean lines of the outer edge of the rim.AB10 At this point I decided that the only way of dealing with the dip in the front outer edge was to top the bowl. I set up a topping board – a flat piece of finished oak – that I use with a piece of 220 grit sandpaper to top pipes. I placed the rim flat against the surface of the sandpaper and worked the bowl across the sandpaper in a clockwise motion. I find that the circular pattern of sanding leaves less sanding marks on the briar that I need to work on afterwards.AB11 I continued to top the rim until I had smoothed out the front edge and restored the clean lines of the outer rim. I also worked until the burn mark was minimized on the outer and top edges of the rim. When finished the rim surface had the inner bevel going from the middle of the newly topped rim inward. The bevel would need to be restored by hand with sandpaper.AB12 I reworked the bevel with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper until the flow was restored. It took quite a bit of sanding to restore the angles while maintaining the straight outer edges of the rim. I sanded it until the curve of the bevel was restored and the rim looked as it had before the topping.AB13 I sanded the rim with a medium and a fine grit sanding sponge to remove the sanding marks left behind by the 220 grit sandpaper. The medium grit removed the majority of them and the fine grit sponge polished the briar.AB14 The pipe was unstained so I oiled the rim with olive oil to match the colour of the rest of the bowl. I applied the olive oil with a folded paper towel and rubbed it into the briar and then wiped it off. I repeated the process until the surface of the bowl and rim were non-oily to touch.AB15 I buffed the bowl and rim with White Diamond and a soft flannel buff to polish it.AB19 After the buffing I could still see some marks left behind by the sandpaper and sanding sponges so I sanded the rim with micromesh sanding pads. I wet sanded the rim with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanded with 3200-12,000 grit pads. When finished I gave the bowl and rim several coats of carnauba wax and buffed with a soft flannel wheel to raise the shine. The finished rim is shown below. The burn marks are minimized and the bevel on the rim shines and highlights the natural grain of the briar.
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NB. The complete restoration of this pipe is covered in a separate blog. https://rebornpipes.com/2015/01/04/restoring-a-burned-beveled-rim-on-an-algerian-briar-pot/

Reviving a Genod Shaped like a 9242 GBD


Blog by Steve Laug

When I saw this one on EBay I immediately put in a bid that would make it mine. When it arrived this is what it looked like. The bowl was relatively clean and easy to work on. The rim had a pretty serious burn on the inside and the outside edge of the bowl on the right side. It is visible in the second photo below. The bowl was also slightly out of round due to reaming with a sharp blade. The stem was oxidized and was an uneven brown tone. There were two small tooth marks on the stem one on top near the button with a match on the underside near the button. The first picture is a bit blurry but I include it as it gives an idea of the shape of the pipe and why I compared it to a GBD 9242. This one is stamped Genod on the left side of the shank and on the right side Iwan Ries & Co (in script) over the shape 271. 
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I cleaned the bowl and reamed it carefully to remove the carbon build up and uneven cake. I then used sand paper to smooth the inner edges of the bowl and bring it back as closely as possible to round. I topped the bowl minimally to remove the burn damage on the flat surface and minimize it on the outer edge of the bowl. For the most part it came out but left a little darkening on the surface of the rim. The right edge also has some remaining darkening and a small divot out of the edge.  I cleaned the shank with isopropyl alcohol and many pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and a shank brush. I then place the bowl in an alcohol bath to soak while I worked on the stem.

The stem is very hard vulcanite. The tooth dents are more cuts than dents and one day I may fill them with super glue but decided to leave them at this point. I sanded the stem with 400 and 600 grit wet dry sandpaper and water to remove the oxidation. It was not terribly deep so it came off very easily. I then used micromesh sanding pads from 1500-6000 grit to polish the stem. When it was finished I rubbed it down with some Obsidian Oil and set it aside to dry.

I took the bowl out of the alcohol bath and dried it off. I used some medium brown aniline stain mixed 50/50 with isopropyl alcohol to lighten and thin it. I rubbed it on with the dauber and then flamed it and buffed it. I put the stem on it before buffing and gave the entirety a buff with Tripoli and White Diamond. Once it was finished it was given multiple coats of carnauba wax.
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This little Dr. Plumb Bulldog is a beauty


Blog by Steve Laug

This little pipe came to me via a friend in Germany. I finished cleaning up what has turned out to be a very nice squat straight bulldog that is stamped Dr. Plumb Extra on one side and 13 D.R.G.M. on the other. I have been familiar with Dr. Plumb pipes for quite a while and love the fact that they were a GBD seconds line. In fact they often share the same numbering system for shapes. This little guy had some serious issues when I took it under my wing. It needed a bit of work. The bowl was scorched along the front outer edge of the rim as it looked to have been lit with a torch lighter. The finish was shot and not only faded and washed out but also pitted and darkened along the bowl sides. The stem was oxidized and a bit chewed on the end. The stinger apparatus was dark and filled with tars and hardened tobacco oils.

My friend had started removing the burn mark and the bowl angles were slightly out or line. I finished removing the scorched briar and reworked the angles on all the outer edges of the bowl to keep the perspective and rim correct. I gave a ream and clean to remove any of the remaining cake and the sanding dust that had become embedded in the cracks in the cake. I put the bowl in the alcohol bath and then worked on the stem.

The pipe had the strangest stinger contraption I have ever seen that extends into the bottom of the bowl. It almost looks like a motorcycle exhaust pipe. I have inserted a few pictures of the stinger and fit in the bowl. I removed the stinger and placed in a small bowl of alcohol to soak. The stem was badly oxidized – not the brown oxidation that sat on the surface but a deep oxidation that left the stem a deep brown under the surface. I had been soaking the stem in Oxyclean while I worked on the burn on the rim of the bowl so that when I removed it from the water the oxidation had been brought to the surface. I used my buffer to remove the surface oxidation that had softened. I use Tripoli at this stage and work the stem carefully on the buffer to avoid rounding the shoulders on the stem. Then I sanded it with 240 grit sandpaper until it was matte black and clean. I then sanded it with 400 and 600 grit wet dry sandpaper and water to remove the scratches. I finished the stem by sanding with the micromesh pads 1500-6000 grit until the stem had a sheen to it. ImageImage

I then took the bowl out of the alcohol bath and dried it off. I sanded it with the 1800-2400 grit micromesh pads until the surface was free of scratches and grooves and was smooth. Then I refinished it with an oxblood aniline stain to bring out the red highlights in the briar. I put the stem back on the pipe and took it to the buffer to buff with White Diamond. Once finished I gave the whole pipe several coats of carnauba wax. ImageImageImage