Daily Archives: August 28, 2024

Restoring a Ferndown Bark L&JS Briars Silver Spigot Billiard


By Steve Laug

The next pipe on the table is a beautiful rusticated Billiard with a silver ferrule and silver spigot stem. We purchased it from an Antique Mall in Lincoln City, Oregon, USA on 08/24/2024. The pipe is stamped on a smooth panel on the underside of the shank and reads Ferndown [arched over] Bark followed by L&JS Briars [over] Hand Made In [over] England. There was a thin cake in the bowl and the rim top and inner edge had been scraped and was faded. There was grime ground into the rusticated finish around the bowl and shank. There was also some fading on the right side of the bowl toward the front running down from the rim edge to about midbowl. It was faded as if by sun or perhaps whatever had stripped the rim top. The pipe was someone’s obvious favourite and was well care. The inner edge looked to be in good condition. The oxidized ferrule and spigot end on the stem are both Sterling Silver. The ferrule bears the stamp L&JS followed by 925 on the left side. There is an LJS logo stamped in gold on the left side of the taper stem. The stem is heavily oxidized and calcified. There appears to be some light tooth chatter on the top and underside of the stem ahead of the button. I took photos of the pipe earlier this morning before I started my clean up work. I have included them below. I took a photo of the rim top, bowl and the surfaces of the stem to give a sense of the condition of the pipe. The walls of the bowl had a thin cake with no lava on the rim edges or top. The stem is heavily oxidized, calcified and dirty. There are light tooth marks on both sides ahead of the button.I took a photo of the stamping on the smooth panel on the underside the heel and the shank. It is clear and readable and read as noted above. The silver ferrule and the left side of the taper both have clear stamping under the oxidation that reads as noted above.I took some photos of the fading on the front and the right side of the bowl extending half way down the rusticated surface. It is wash out and matches the washed out rim top on the bowl. I took a photo of the pipe with the stem removed. It is definitely dirty and the silver and the stem both are oxidized. To gather backgound on the brand I turned to Pipephil’s site to see what was included in the listing there (http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-f1.html). I have included both the screen capture and also the side bar below the photo I have included.Artisan: Leslie (Les) Wood. He was the master silver smith at Alfred Dunhill Ltd. before starting L. & J.S. Briars. Pipes for the European market are stamped “L. Wood” while those for US are stamped “Ferndown”. Production: ~ 2000 pipes/year (Ferndown + L.Wood) See also Elwood

The first pipe pictured in the screen capture above is stamped similarly to mine. The pipe I had in hand did not have the stars on the heel so there was no size designation on the pipe. This is a large pipe. The Bark finish is a designation used for both sandblasted and rusticated. The stem on the pipe I am working on is also not Cumberland but rather black vulcanite with a silver spigot ending.

I turned to Pipedia next (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Ferndown). There is a great article there on the carver, the pipes and the workshop. It is worth the time to give it a read. I am quoting the section on the pipes below for the information included.

Due to the vagaries of international trademark law, he sold his earlier pipes as ”L.&J.S Briars”, “Ellwood”, “Les Wood” or “L. Wood”. Until recently, an average of 1500 – 2000 pipes a year were sold as “Ferndown” — named for the mansion he lives in — in the UK and US, but as “L. Wood” pipes in Germany

…To many pipe smokers, Les Wood’s pipes embody the revival of great English pipe making initiated by Ashton in the early 1980s. The high-grade Italian and Spanish plateau he prefers is oil-cured in the tradition of both Dunhill and Ashton. The pipes are renowned for their pleasant, slightly nutty flavor and remarkable smoking characteristics. They feature impeccable craftsmanship extending to very good stem/bit work, though many pipes are often a bit heavier. The hallmark of his work, of course, is the excellent silver work. Almost all of his pipes feature rings or ferules for spigot stems. Grading is by finish: “Bark” (ca. 90%, rusticated, dark brown and black), “Antique Bark” (tan rusticated), “Reo” (brown and red, smooth), “Root” (orange, smooth), and “Tudor Root” (orange and brown smooth) and by size (one to four stars). He also designates straight grains with SG.

The pipe I am working on is as noted above a Ferndown which identifies it as a pipe named after his mansion and as a pipe made for the UK and the US. It is also as noted in red above stamped Bark which identifies it as a dark brown and black rusticated pipe.

Now it was time to work on the pipe. I started my work by reaming the pipe. I scraped out the light cake with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. I took the cake back to bare briar. I sanded the walls smooth with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. The bowl walls looked very good with no burn damage or checking on the walls. I worked on the fading and damage to the rim top with 320-3500 grit sanding pads. It looked much better when I had finished with the last of the pads.At this point I stained the rim top and the faded areas around the bowl with a Mahogany stain pen. It blended well with the surrounding briar on the bowl sides. The rim top looked better but I would need to polish it and clean up the finished look of the rim top. I cleaned out he internals of the shank, mortise and airway in the shank and the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and pipe cleaners.I polished the smooth rim top with micromesh sanding pads. I dry sanded it with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads and wiped the bowl down after each pad with a damp cloth. By the final pads the briar really had a shine. I rubbed the briar down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the smooth rim top surface with my fingertips and into the heavy rustication with a shoebrush. The product works to clean, enliven and preserve the briar. I let it sit for 10 minutes then I buffed it with a cotton cloth to deepen the shine. The briar really comes alive with the balm. I polished the silver ferrule and the spigot end on the stem with a jeweller’s cloth to clean up and prevent further oxidation in the future. The contrast between the silver and the heavy rustication is very nice. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I scrubbed the oxidation on the stem surface with Soft Scrub and cotton pads until it was much cleaner.I sanded the surface with 320-3500 grit sanding pads. I wiped the stem down after each pad with Obsidian Oil. I was able to remove the remnants of oxidation and the stem looked better.I touched up the LJS stamp on the left side of the taper stem with Rub’n Buff Antique Gold. I rubbed it on and worked it into the stamp with a tooth pick. I buffed it off with an Obsidian Oil cloth. It looks very good.I polished the vulcanite stem with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad. I used Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine to further polish the stem. This beautiful Ferndown Bark Rusticated L&JS Briars Silver Spigot Billiard with a taper vulcanite stem looks amazing after the work on it. The briar is clean and the grain really came alive. The rich brown stains gave the finish a sense of depth with the polishing and waxing. The grain really popped. I put the stem back on the bowl and buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel using a light touch on the briar. I gave the bowl multiple coats of Conservator’s Wax and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the buffing wheel. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed the pipe with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished Ferndown Bark Silver Spigot Billiard really is a beauty and feels great in the hand and looks very good. Give the finished pipe a look in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 6 ¾ inches, Height: 2 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ½ inches, Chamber diameter: 7/8 of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 66 grams/2.33 ounces. This beautiful rusticated pipe will soon be on the rebornpipes store in the British Pipemakers Secton. It should make a great smoker for the next trustee. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I worked on it. It was a fun one to work on.

Cleaning up a VPFN Cased Meerschaum Billiard with a Bakelite Stem


By Steve Laug

This is another of the four pipes that Sonny in Salmon Arm, BC sent to me for refurbishing. He put them in the mail and I received them on Monday this week. I took a photo of the box of four pipes once I unwrapped them. There were 4 interesting and very unique pipes – a Vauen Solitaire 148 Freehand Filter Pipe that is huge, an older cased meerschaum with an overclocked stem, a Dunhill Wanghee Sandblast Dublin with a Bamboo shank and short saddle stem and finally an Anima wax drip sand blast Billiard carved by Brian McNulty. All needed varying degrees of restoration. The last pipe, a Meerschaum Billiard with a Bakelite Stem is next. It is in a worn green felt covered case that has a silver decal on the inside of the cover VPFN in an oval. The case is lined with a green plush lining. The pipe bears no stamping or identification at all. There is a brass repair band with newer marks on it set in place mid-shank with what appears to be a crack underneath. The repair is solid. The bowl has a light cake in it but not thick. There was some darkening and lava on the rim top as well as some nicks. The finish on the bowl was very dirty with grey grime ground in where the fingers wrapped around the bowl. There were nicks in the finish as well. There was also a line where the meer looked clean up the front of the bowl from top to bottom. The stem has a bone tenon and is Bakelite. The stem is slightly overturned or overclocked to the right. There were light tooth marks and chatter ahead of the button. I took these photos before I started my work on the pipe. I took a photo of the rim top and bowl to show the condition of both of them. There is a light cake in the bowl and it is clean. The rim top is dirty with tars/lava and some nick marks around the outer edge. The inner edge of the bowl looks to be in good condition. The photos of the stem show the light tooth marks/chatter on both sides ahead of the button.I took a photo of the stamping on the inside cover of the case. The stamping was clear and very readable. The VPFN on the inside of the case is shown in the photo. I removed the stem from the shank and took a photo to show the beauty of the pipe.I wanted to get some background on the VPFN stamp on the inside of the case. It was obviously made to fit the pipe so the meer was also a VPFN. Now what did that stand for? I did a Google search for VPFN and was led to a description of the VPFN tying the pipe that I am working on to Vauen. I found a link to Country Squire (https://www.thecountrysquireonline.com/product-category/pipes/vauen-pipes/) and an ad for Vauen pipes. I quote:

Quality and inventiveness have a tradition at VAUEN. OVER 175 YEARS OF VAUEN – that means: over 175 years of craftsmanship and experience paired with contemporary technology.

In 1848, Karl Ellenberger and his partner Carl August Ziener turned an idea into reality in Nuremberg: in the first German pipe factory, they made tobacco pipes from exquisite wood for connoisseurs all over the world. Together with the Gebhard Ott pipe factory, which was also founded in Nuremberg in 1866, the United Pipe Factories Nuremberg (VPFN for short) was founded in 1901 .

Knowing that I knew that I was dealing with a Vauen Meerschaum. I turned first to Pipephil’s site (http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-v1.html). I did a screen capture of the information on the site. There was a great sidebar that gave some history of the brand. I include both of them below. There was also a note at the bottom of the screen capture below that has a link to the Vauen Dr Perl variant on the P-Lip pipe.In 1848, Karl Ellenberger and his partner Carl August Ziener establish a pipe factory in Nuremberg. In 1901 they merge with Gebhard Ott an other factory in town and they create a firm named Vereinigten Pfeifenfabriken Nürnberg (abbreviated: VPFN*). Shortly after Ernst Eckert, a member of the Ott family became manager of the society. During the 20th century Adolf, Ernst (jr) and Alexander Eckert (CEO in 2012) followed one another at Vauen’s head.* VPFN : “V” is said VAU in German (pronounce faou) and “N” becomes EN. Hence VAUEN.

I also turned to a blog written on rebornpipes by Dal Stanton (Pipesteward.com) that I quote a section from the blog below that gives a great sense of the history of the German brand and some photos from the website (https://rebornpipes.com/2021/04/27/breathing-new-life-into-a-german-vauen-6294-p-lip-saddle-billiard-for-a-special-young-lady/).

… I turn to the question of the history of the VAUEN name? I look to the History section of the VAUEN website and again, I am impressed with the presentation. Whenever I work on a pipe, and especially when a pipe name is new to me, I enjoy looking at its history to appreciate the pipe more fully now on my worktable. From VAUEN’s website:Quality and a wealth of ideas have a long tradition at VAUEN. 160 years of VAUEN: that means 160 years of skilled workmanship and modern technology and 160 years of experience in fulfilling the individual wishes of today’s pipe lovers, and those of tomorrow.

In Nuremberg in 1848, Karl Ellenberger and his partner Carl August Ziener turned an idea into reality: Germany’s first pipe manufacturer produced tobacco pipes for connoisseurs around the world using a selection of the best wood. In an amalgamation with the Gebhard Ott pipe factory, which was founded in 1866 in Nuremberg, the Vereinigten Pfeifenfabriken Nuremberg (United Pipe Factories Nuremberg, or VPFN) was born in 1901.  Under the management of Ernst Eckert, a descendant of the founding Ott family, a company was born whose products and services would shape the tobacco and smoking culture in Europe and overseas for the next 160 years and counting.

The question about the name, VAUEN, not being a name of a person and why it is capitalized throughout is explained:

In his search for a name that would be easily remembered by all pipe lovers, Ernst Eckert’s son, Adolf Eckert, coined a new name for the company in 1909: VAUEN – a composition of the first letters V (pronounced vow) of Vereinigte Pfeifenfabriken and N (pronounced en) of Nuremberg. A brand for the future was born.

Now it was time to work on the pipe itself. I cleaned the externals of the bowl with Before and After Briar Cleaner to remove the oils and grim from the finish. I rubbed it on with my finger tips and buffed it off with a paper towel to polish it up. I reamed the cake with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. I sanded the walls of the bowl with a piece of 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. The walls of the bowl are undamaged and smooth. I also cleaned the shank and internals of the shank and stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and isopropyl alcohol. (I failed to take photos of the process).
I polished the meerschaum surface with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the bowl down after each pad with a damp cloth to remove the sanding debris. The bowl began to take on a shine. Now it was time to wax the pipe I melted some beeswax and put a cork in the bowl to hold on to. I painted the bowl surface with the wax using a paint brush I caked it on heavily and set it aside to harden a bit. I heated the bowl with a heat gun to melt off the excess wax and let it drip in the container. I wiped it down with a paper towel. It looked good and the patina deepened. I took some photos of the bowl after buffing it with Blue Diamond. It is a beautiful bowl and the marks and scratches are a well-earned part of the pipe’s story. I polished them some but did not change the profile of the pipe so some still remain. The rim top particularly shows this wear and tear and I left it to remain. I set the bowl aside and turned to address the stem. I painted the threads on the bone tenon with some clear CA glue to build them up to correct the overturned stem. I sanded the ridges smooth with a piece of 220 grit sandpaper until the fit was correct on the shank. I removed it and greased the tenon with some Vaseline to lubricate the threads to ease the turning into the shank. It went very easily and the fit showed the corrected overturned stem.I polished the Bakelite with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad. I used Before & After Pipe Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine to further polish the stem. I gave it a final coat of Obsidian Oil before I put the stem back on the shank. Once I finished with the Vauen VPFN Meerschaum Billiard with the red Bakelite stem I put the stem back on the shank and carefully buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond polish using a lightly loaded pad and a soft touch. I wanted the shine but did not want to heat the Bakelite too much or bring damage to the banded shank repair. I used even a gentler touch on the bamboo. I gave the stem a vigorous polish being careful around the repair. Since I have already waxed it with beeswax I did not give it a coat of carnauba. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad and hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. It is a great piece of pipe history and looks better than when I began the process. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outer Bowl Diameter: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber Diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.06 ounces/ 30 grams. This is the last of Sonny’s pipes I had to work on. I will pack them all and send them back to him this week. Thanks for reading this blog and my reflections on the pipe while I working on it. As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipemen and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.