Tag Archives: polishing an acrylic stem

What an Oddity a Clairmont 1Ano Destra Handmade Right Angle Pipe with a Cumberland stem

by Steve Laug

This particularly interesting right-angle Billiard pipe was purchased from a seller in Santa Cruz, California, USA on 05/28/2024. It is carved in a way that chases the grain and a bent rounded shank with a Cumberland stem. It is stamped on the topside of the shank and reads Clairmont and on the underside of the shank it is stamped 1 Ano Destra and right next to the shank it is stamped Handmade. The smooth 90 Degree Angle Billiard shaped pipe is dirty but the grime does not hide the beautiful looking combination around the bowl and shank. The stain brings out the straight grain around the bowl and shank sides and the birdseye on the top and underside of the shank and the rim top and heel of the bowl. The pipe had a moderate cake in the bowl and a light coat of lava on the top and inner edge of the bowl. There was grime ground into the smooth finish. The shape of the rim is slightly crowned. The acrylic Cumberland taper stem is dirty and has what looks like debris left behind by a Softee Bit. It had light tooth marks and chatter on both sides near the button. The pipe must have been a great smoker judging from the condition it came it. Jeff took photos of the pipe before he started his work on it. Jeff took photos of the rim top and the stem to show the condition of the pipe when we received it. You can see the cake in the bowl and the light lava on the rim top and inner edge of the bowl. The Cumberland acrylic stem was dirty and had light chatter and tooth marks on both sides near the button. He took photos of the sides of the bowl and the heel to give an idea of the shape and the condition of the briar around the bowl. It really is a nicely shaped pipe that has a very unique look. The next photos Jeff took shows the stamping on the top and the underside of the shank. It is clear and readable as noted above. I really wanted to understand who had made the Clairmont pipe. I had not heard of the brand before and have not worked on one. I turned to Pipephil’s site to see what I could learn from there (http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-c5.html). Generally the site has a great summary of information and in this case it did as well. I have included a screen shot of the section and have included the side bar information below the photo.Brand created by Alberto Paronelli in the 1970’s. Pipes usually were crafted by Tom Spanu. “Clairmont” is a francization of “Chiaramonti”, birthplace of Tom Spanu (see dok). See also: Casteldoria, Castelsardo

With that information I knew that the pipe had been crafted by Tom Spanu for a brand created by Alberto Paronelli during the 1970s. The Clairmont name was a francization of the Italian word Chiaramonti which was the birthplace of Tom Spanu.

I turned to Pipedia for more information on the brand. It gave a one line confirmation of the information from Pipephil (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Italian_Pipe_Brands_%26_Makers_A_-_C). I have included the line below.

Clairmont – Alberto Paronelli / Tomassu Spanu; Gavirate (Varese). Highgrade pipes, discontinued.

The added information was that it was a Highgrade pipe that is no longer made.

From there I turned to an article on Tommaso Spanu (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Spanu). I quote the information below as well as an update on the death of Tommaso Spanu in the Fall of 2015. I have made the sections on the Clairmont pipes in bold.

Novarte S.N.C. di Spanu Tommaso

Update: We are sad to report that it has come to our attention that Tommaso Spanu passed from this World in the Fall of 2015 to join the many great Italian pipe makers that came before him. Our hope is that Tommoso’s sons and brother will continue the Spanu pipe making tradition. We can also enjoy the legacy he leaves in the many pipes he has made over the years.

In 1963 Tommaso Spanu left his home in Sardinia and wandered to Northern Italy to become a pipemaker. His uncle had managed an apprenticeship for him in Gavirate, in the province of Varese, with it’s many pipe manufactures. His exceptional talent soon attracted the attention of Alberto Paronelli (→ Paronelli), the grand seigneur of Italian pipe business. Paronelli, a famed pipe designer himself, arranged that the best pipe craftsmen schooled his young fosterling and personally taught him in pipe design and styles. Soon Spanu reached a remarkable level of skills and began to work on the Clairmont pipes, a high-grade brand produced for and distributed by Paronelli. A little later the bulk of the Clairmonts was made by Spanu who was even allowed to stamp them with his own name additionally.

Jeff had done a great job cleaning up the pipe as usual. He reamed the pipe with a PipNet reamer and cut back the cake back to the bare briar. He cleaned up the walls with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the interior of the bowl, shank and the airway in the stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol to remove the tars and oils. It was surprising how easily the pipe cleaners went through the curved shank to the bowl. He scrubbed the exterior of the pipe with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush to remove the grime from the finish. He scrubbed the exterior of the stem with Soft Scrub. He rinsed it off with warm water to remove the cleaner. It looked very good when I brought it to the worktable. I took photos of the pipe when I brought it to the work table. The briar is really very stunning! I took close up photos of the rim top and the stem surface. I wanted to show how well it had cleaned up. The rim top and edges looked very good. I took photos of the stem to show the condition it was in. There were light tooth marks and chatter against the button edge on both sides. Green dot inset logo in the stem looks very good.I took a photo of the stamping on the underside of the shank. You can see that it is stamped as noted above. It is clear and readable. I took the pipe apart and took a photo of the pipe. It is a good looking pipe with incredible grain. I polished the briar with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the bowl down after each pad with a damp cloth to remove the sanding dust. By the end of the process they looked very good. I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the briar with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I let the balm sit for 15 minutes and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The photos show the bowl at this point in the restoration process. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I sanded the stem with 320-3500 grit sanding pads to remove the tooth marks and chatter against the button edge. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with a damp cloth. Once it was finished the stem looked really good. I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I am excited to finish this Tom Spanu Handmade Clairmont 1 Ano Destra with a Cumberland acrylic taper stem. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. It looked excellent without the damaged spacer on the stem. The fit was excellent. I gave the bowl multiple coats of and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and hand buffed it with a microfibre cloth to deepen the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with the grain just popping on all sides. This Spanu Made Clairmont 1 Ano Destra Handmade is nice looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 6 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 50 grams/ 1.76 ounces. It is a beautiful pipe and one that will be on the Italian Pipe Makers Section of the rebornpipes store soon. If you are interested in adding it to your collection let me know. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked over this pipe. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog.

Restoring a Replica of a Early Zeppelin Style Pipe from the Twenties

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by Steve Laug

This afternoon the local pipe shop I do repairs for dropped off a few pipes for repair. The first of the pipes was marked Zeppelin [over] Vauen on the left side of the middle portion of the pipe. It is made up of an acrylic stem that fits over a Delrin 9MM style inserted tenon. The middle section is in essence a reverse calabash cooling chamber. The front section, or nose cone is the bowl that holds the tobacco. It presses onto the middle part which has another tenon – briar with a rubber grommet. It a moderate cake on the walls of this part of the pipe. The exterior of the pipe was very clean and the finish looked very good. While it is a replica pipe it is different from the original Zeppelin. The original had turned wooden threads that connected the parts. The tenon was vulcanite and it was a push stem rather than a 9MM tenon. Also, the older ones were perfectly aligned so that the parts fit together smoothly in any configuration. This newer replica was not perfectly symmetrical so it only fit perfectly in one alignment. It is also significantly larger than the older style Zeppelin. Vauen had done a good job crafting this one but it was uniquely different. It came in its own vinyl case with a paper brochure. The stem no longer fit the tenon as it seems to be larger than the inside of the stem. It took a little work to remove the stem but I was able to remove it. I took a photo of the two parts at this point in the process. I took the nosecone off as well and took a photo of the three sections of the pipe.Before I started to work on it I did a quick Google search on the Vauen Zeppelin pipe and found a link to City Cigar’s website where I found the pipe that I was working on for them. I have included the link (https://citycigarcompany.com/products/vauen-zeppelin-pipe) as well as the description of the item that is for sale on the site. It includes the measurements of the pipe as well as a photo of the pipe. I included all of the info below.

Vauen Zeppelin Pipe – The Vauen Zeppelin Pipe is a bold departure from traditional pipe shapes, modeled after the iconic airship with its sleek, torpedo-like silhouette. Designed to smoke more like a cigar than a classic briar, it features a smooth, streamlined body with a removable front cap for easy loading and wind protection. The bowl is located toward the rear, while the draw is taken through a narrow front air hole—creating a direct, focused airflow.

Crafted from high-quality briar and fitted with a 9 mm charcoal filter, the Zeppelin delivers a surprisingly cool and clean smoke despite its compact build. It’s ideal for short, efficient sessions and particularly well-suited for outdoor use thanks to its wind-resistant design.

Length: 143 mm | Weight: 38 g | Bowl Height: 48.4 mm | Chamber Depth: 33.1 mm | Chamber Diameter: 22.4 mmFrom there I turned to the Vauen site to see if there was any information on the Zeppelin pipes (https://www.vauen.com/pipes/detail/collection/zeppelin/current-range.html). I have included Vauen’s information and the photo from the site.Something truly unique. The Zeppelin is handcrafted replica of a pipe from the roaring twenties, when the airships that roamed the sky were the pinnacle of modernity. The pipe comes in a handy leather case and tips for usage. Mouthpiece: acrylic black. Bitetype: Fishtail mouthpiece

Now it was time to work on the pipe itself. I worked over the Delrin 9MM tenon with 320-3500 grit 2×2 sanding pads to try to reduce the size of the tenon so the stem fit better.I polished the tenon with 1500-12000 grit micromesh sanding pads to raise a shine on the tenon. Once it I had it polished It fit very well. I wiped the tenon end of the Zeppelin with some Vaseline and slipped the stem in place on the pipe. It worked easily and fit snug in the shank. I reamed the cap with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife to scrape out the cake on the cap walls. It was smooth when I finished. Previous to scraping it the surface was very rough to the touch. I cleaned out the three parts of the Vauen with pipe cleaners – both smooth and bristle. I was able to remove a lot of the tars and oils in the airways. It was better when I finished.I rubbed the bowl down with some Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the briar with my fingertips and into the rugged rim top with a shoe brush. The product works to clean, renew and protect briar. I let it do its work for 15 minutes then buffed it off with a soft cloth. The pipe is really quite a beauty. It is great to be finished with this Vauen Zeppelin pipe. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and hand buffed it with microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with the rustic finish. Added to that the polished black vulcanite stem with the shining brass pins was beautiful. This mixed grain on the Vauen Zeppelin is nice looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 1 inch, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 inch, Chamber diameter: 7/8 of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.34 ounces/39 grams. It is a beautiful pipe that will soon be heading back to its own through the pipe shop. I look forward to what he thinks.

Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipemen and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

Restoring a Lovely Castello Collection KK Carlo Sciotti 42 Oval Shank Dublin

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by Steve Laug

It is a beautiful chilly day in Vancouver without rain so I decided to go to the basement and work on another pipe that was purchased on 12/27/2025 in a lot of pipes that came to us from an estate of a pipeman in Durham, North Carolina, USA. The grain around the bowl and shank of this large Dubin has a mix of birdseye, straight and flame grain. The pipe is stamped on the topside of the shank and reads Castello [over] Collection [to the right] it has KK in an oval [over] the signature of Carlo Scotti. On the underside it is stamped with a Castello castle with the date stamp inside – 42 [followed by] Made in Catnu [over] Italy. To the right of it is stamped with an 11 [followed by] an oval with Carlo [over] Scotti on the inside of the oval. The pipe was dirty when Jeff received it. There was dust and grime ground into the finish. It is finished in the warm stain that highlights some nice grain around the bowl and shank. The bowl was heavily caked and there was some darkening and thick lava on the rim top. The inner edge is not visible under the lava so it may well be protected and undamaged. The acrylic taper stem was dirty with deep tooth marks and chatter on both sides ahead of the button and on the button itself. There was a white bar logo on the top of the stem. On the underside it is stamped Hand Made [over] Castello [over] 5. Jeff took photos of the pipe before he started his clean up work on it. Jeff took photos of the bowl and rim top to show what they looked like before the clean up. You can see the thick cake in the bowl and the darkening and lava on the inner edge and top of the rim. The photos of the sides and heel of the bowl show the grain around the bowl and shank. The stain adds depth finish on the pipe. Even under the grime it is a real beauty. The stamping on the sides of the shank are shown in the photos below. It is clear and readable as noted above. I wanted to get to the details of the Castello Collection so I turned to Pipephil’s site to see what I could learn about the line (http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-castello.html). I did a screen capture of the pertinent information on the Collection line. There were several Collection pipe shown – a KKKK and Le Catene but no KK. The rest of the stamping shown in the photo below is identical to those.

I turned to Pipedia (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Castello) to see what I could find out there. I have included some of the pertinent information below. The information helped me understand the dating on the pipe.

Dating: 41 inside the castle emblem = 1988

Only the higher quality pipes are stamped with that date reference (starting from the smooth “Castello” grade). Lower grades as Sea Rock, Old Antiquari or Trade Mark pipes are near impossible to date.

The castle stamping with a number inside the castle was introduced in 1987 (the 40th anniversary of Castello).

Sizes (ascending):

1K to 4K, G (Giant) and GG (Extra large)

Rusticated grading: SEA ROCK, OLD SEA ROCK, NATURAL VIRGIN,

Sandblasted grading: ANTIQUARI, OLD ANTIQUARI

Smooth grading (ascending): TRADEMARK, CASTELLO, COLLECTION

Other stampings: Great Line (Non-standard or freestyle) Fiammata (Straight grain)

Production (2012): ~4000 pipes / year

That helped me date the pipe I was working on that was stamped with a 42 in a Castle. The 41 stamp above meant that the above pipe was made in 1988 and the one I was working on was made a year later in 1989.

I did a bit more work on Google to understand the dating and the meaning of the Collection series. I turned to this blog (https://davismh76.wordpress.com/about/the-castello-pipe/). From there I found the following information. First I have included a section on Dating Today. Secondly a section on Collection. The Dating section confirms the 42=198 Date.

Dating Today. Small k in an oval with castle marking on some lines. In 1987, the 40^th anniversary of Castello, a new stamp was introduced on some lines of Castello pipes. This consists of a castle stamping with a number inside the castle. The number signifies a year 40= 1987, 41=1988, 42=1989, and so forth. Lastly, in 2007 (the 60^th anniversary), Franco has added “kino” in an oval to place his name on the pipes for the first time. Note. One person (Franco Coppo) grades all Castello pipes. He has viewed and graded the total factory’s production for many years. It is said that the ‘k’ stands for Kino, which is Franco’s nickname.

Collection. [The highest grade all smooth ‘standard’ series]: The Collection series is graded on grain with a 4k piece being the highest graded ‘standard’ Castello available. The collection series is usually used on straight grained briar with a few 2k and 3k pieces available with cross cut/birds eye graining.

From that information I knew that the pipe that I was working on was made in 1989. When I look at the grain and also the way the pipe maker cut the pipe to maximize the lay of the grain on the bowl confirms that it is definitely high on the grade list. It is a 2k pipe which the above says is available with cross cut/birds eye grain. Now it was time to work on the pipe on my end.

When I received it from Jeff this past week it did not look like the same pipe. It was clean and the finish had life. He reamed it with a PipNet pipe reamer and got rid of the cake. He cleaned up the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife so that we could see the walls of the bowl and assess for damage. It was in good condition. He cleaned the internals of the shank and stem with cotton swabs, pipe cleaners and alcohol. He scrubbed the exterior with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush. He rinsed the pipe under warm water. He dried it off with a cloth and then let it air dry. The stem was scrubbed with Soft Scrub and soaked in Briarville’s Stem Deoxidizer. It came out looking very good. The finish on the bowl and the rim top cleaned up nicely. I took pictures of the pipe to show how it looked when I brought it to the table. I took some photos of the rim top and stem to show the condition of them both when the pipe arrived. Overall the briar looked good. The stem had some light tooth chatter and marks ahead of the button and on the button surface on both sides.I took a photo of the stamping on the top and underside of the shank and the underside of the stem. It is readable and in great condition. I removed the stem from the shank and took a photo of the pipe to show the look of the pipe. I worked on the inner edge and the rim top of the bowl with a folded piece 220 grit sandpaper. Once I finished cleaning up the edge and top it looked very good.I sanded the sides of the bowl and the rim top with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch sanding pads to remove the scratching in the briar and smooth it out. It is a really beautiful piece of briar with some amazing grain around the sides, heel and rim top. I polished the bowl with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the briar down after each pad with a damp cloth. The bowl is starting to look very good. I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the surface of the briar with my fingertips to clean, enliven and protect it. I let the balm sit for a little while and then buffed with a cotton cloth to raise the shine. The photos show the bowl at this point in the restoration process. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I wiped the tooth marks down with isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab and then filled in the tooth marks with black CA glue. Once the repairs cured I used a small flat needle file to smooth out the repaired areas on both sides of the stem. I sanded them with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to blend them into the surface of the vulcanite. I sanded the stem with 320-3500 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with a damp cloth. By the final 3500 grit sanding pad the rim top had a shine.I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-12000 grit sanding pads. I wiped it down after each sanding pad with some Obsidian Oil. I finished polishing it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine and buffed it off with a cotton cloth. This beautiful Castello Collection KK Carlo Scotti 42 (1989) Oval Shank Dublin with a taper acrylic stem looks amazing after the work on it. The briar is clean and the grain really came alive. The rich brown stains gave the finish a sense of depth with the polishing and waxing. The birds eye almost winked at me. I put the stem back on the bowl and buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel using a light touch on the briar. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the buffing wheel. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed the pipe with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished Castello Collection KK Carlo Scotti Dublin really is a beauty and feels great in the hand and looks very good. Give the finished pipe a look in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 6 inches, Height: 2 ½ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 2 inches, Chamber diameter: 1 inch. The weight of the pipe is 67 grams/2.36 ounces. I will soon be putting this pipe on the rebornpipes store in the Italian Pipemakers Section. It should make a great smoker so if you are interested in it please let me know..

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

Restoring a Jess Chonowitsch Stanwell Jubileaum 1942-92 Made in Denmark 69 Brandy

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by Steve Laug

Brand & factory were established in 1942 by Poul Nielsen. The company has been owned since 2000 by Nordisk Tobaks Kompagni A/S.

The factory in Borup crafted all Stanwell pipes from 1965 until 2009. From 2010 on the pipes are crafted by Barontini (Italy) exept for the limited editions.

Production (2007): 115,000 Pipes/year – Denmark

I turned to Pipedia to an article that originally was posted here on rebornpipes and written by my late friend Bas Stevens (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Stanwell_Shape_Numbers_and_Designers). There was a section in the article was a piece on the Jubilaeum pipes. I have included it and the list of shapes.

‘Jubilee’ (Danish: Jubilaeum) pipes

On occasion, Stanwell released special ‘Jubilee’ pipes, most notably in 1982 (40th), 1992 (50th), and 2002 (60th), though ‘Jubilee’ pipes do exist from Stanwell’s ‘registration era.’

For the 40th and 50th Jubilee, a number of iconic shapes were chosen from Stanwell’s back catalog (including shapes no longer produced). Pipes could be purchased individually, or as a full set. Different shapes featured in the Jubilee ranges. In the 1982 range, pipes were offered in natural, red, and golden contrast stains. In the 1992 Jubilee range, stems could be either standard black vulcanite, or cumberland ebonite.

For the 40th (1942-1982) Jubilee, these shapes were:

32: Poul Stanwell’s 32(a), the first shape designed for Stanwell, a classical straight bulldog, released in 1942.
71. Sixten Ivarsson’s 71, a straight pear-billiard with a saddle stem.
118. Sixten Ivarsson’s 118, a slightly bent volcano with a flush flared stem.
119. A quarter-bent Dublin, with an oval rim, and a saddle stem.
64. Sixten Ivarson’s 64(a), a quarter-bent Dublin with a plateau rim and a flush flared stem.
64M. Sixten Ivarsson’s 64M, a version of the 64(a) shape, but with a vulcanite ferrule and a push flared stem.
07. A quarter-bent apple with a diamond shank and a saddle stem.
53. A straight billiard of medium size, with a saddle stem.
108. Tom Eltang’s quarter-bent horn/scoop hybrid with a flared flush stem.
113. A Canadian with a wide, short bowl.
156. Jess Chonowitsch’s 156, a quarter-bent bulldog with a forward cant.
12. A large billiard with a tapered stem (12b).
57. A medium billiard with a tapered stem.

For the 50th (1942-1992) Jubilee, these shapes were:

32: Poul Stanwell’s 32(a), the first shape designed for Stanwell, a classical straight bulldog, released in 1942.
06: Sixten Ivarsson’s 06(a) bent Dublin, released in 1951.
70: Sixten Ivarsson’s 70(a) bent volcano, released in 1967.
35. Anne Julie’s 35(b) bent egg, released in 1975.

Jess Chonowitsch’s 169 straight brandy/tulip, released in 1986
Tom Eltang’s 190 hexagonal-shank billiard, as featured in the ‘Sixtus’ range, released in 1992.

A six-day set of Stanwell’s 1992 Jubilee pipes in their original case. Image courtesy Nicholas Gutierrez of NG Pipes.

The Straight Brandy, shape 69 is a Jess Chonowitsch Design which was a Brandy/Tulip originally released in 1986. Now it was time to work on the pipe.

Jeff had cleaned up the pipe with his usual penchant for thoroughness. He reamed the pipe with a PipNet Pipe Reamer and cleaned up the remnants with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the bowl with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap with a tooth brush. He rinsed it under running warm water to remove the soap and grime. He cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and pipe cleaners. He soaked the stem in Before & After Deoxidizer and rinsed it off with warm water. It came in Stanwell Box with Pipe Sock. I removed it from the sock and took photos of the pipe once I received it. I took close up photos of both the rim top and the stem. Jeff had been able to get the grime and lava off of the rim top and the damage to the rim top was very visible. Even the darkening and marks on the rim top on the right side and the back of the bowl look much better. The stem looked very clean. The tooth marks and chatter were minimal and should be easy to remove.The stamping on the underside of the shank was readable as noted above. I also took a photo with the stem removed to give an idea of the perspective and design of the pipe.The top and inner edge of the bowl were burned and damaged. I used a wooden sphere and some 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the rim top and the inner edge and bring it back to life. It looked much better after the smooth and shaping. Now the question is whether to leave it smooth or to use a very simple rustication to match the sandblast. I decided to use burr on my Dremel to rusticate the rim top to match the sandblast around the bowl and sides of the shank. I worked it over and used a wire brush to clean off the rustication. Once it was finished I stained it with Cherry/Mahogany/Maple stain pens to match the colour of the stain around the bowl. I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the finish of the bowl and shank with my fingers. I want the product to go deep into the finish because it works to clean, enliven and protect the briar. Once I was confident that it was deeply worked into the finish I wiped it off and buffed it with a soft cloth to polish it. The pipe really began to have a rich shine. I took some photos of the bowl at this point to mark the progress in the restoration. The grain really stands out on the pipe in the photos below. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I “painted” the surface of the stem with the flame of a Bic lighter to lift the tooth marks. I was able to lift them all. I sanded the stem surface with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper. It looked much better.I sanded the stem with 320-1500 grit sanding pads to further blend the sanding marks into the surface of the vulcanite. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with an Obsidian cloth to remove the debris from the sanding.I polished the vulcanite stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding it with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Polish – both the Fine and Extra Fine polishes. I gave it a final coat of oil and set it aside to dry. I am excited to put the finishing touches on this Jesse Chonowitsch Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Brandy 69 (169). I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and hand buffed it with microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with the polished black, fancy turned vulcanite stem was beautiful. This Jesse Chonwitsch Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Straight Brandy 69 is nice looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 6 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 inch, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.34 ounces/38 grams. It is a beautiful pipe and one that I will be putting in the Danish Pipemakers Section on the rebornpipes store. Thanks for walking through the cleanup with me as I worked over this pipe.

Restoring an Anne Julie Design Stanwell Jubileaum 1942-92 Made in Denmark 35 Bent Egg

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by Steve Laug

Brand & factory were established in 1942 by Poul Nielsen. The company has been owned since 2000 by Nordisk Tobaks Kompagni A/S.

The factory in Borup crafted all Stanwell pipes from 1965 until 2009. From 2010 on the pipes are crafted by Barontini (Italy) exept for the limited editions.

Production (2007): 115 000 Pipes/year – Denmark

‘Jubilee’ (Danish: Jubilaeum) pipes

On occasion, Stanwell released special ‘Jubilee’ pipes, most notably in 1982 (40th), 1992 (50th), and 2002 (60th), though ‘Jubilee’ pipes do exist from Stanwell’s ‘registration era.’

For the 40th (1942-1982) Jubilee, these shapes were:

32: Poul Stanwell’s 32(a), the first shape designed for Stanwell, a classical straight bulldog, released in 1942.
71. Sixten Ivarsson’s 71, a straight pear-billiard with a saddle stem.
118. Sixten Ivarsson’s 118, a slightly bent volcano with a flush flared stem.
119. A quarter-bent Dublin, with an oval rim, and a saddle stem.
64. Sixten Ivarson’s 64(a), a quarter-bent Dublin with a plateau rim and a flush flared stem.
64M. Sixten Ivarsson’s 64M, a version of the 64(a) shape, but with a vulcanite ferrule and a push flared stem.
07. A quarter-bent apple with a diamond shank and a saddle stem.
53. A straight billiard of medium size, with a saddle stem.
108. Tom Eltang’s quarter-bent horn/scoop hybrid with a flared flush stem.
113. A Canadian with a wide, short bowl.
156. Jess Chonowitsch’s 156, a quarter-bent bulldog with a forward cant.
12. A large billiard with a tapered stem (12b).
57. A medium billiard with a tapered stem.

For the 50th (1942-1992) Jubilee, these shapes were:

32: Poul Stanwell’s 32(a), the first shape designed for Stanwell, a classical straight bulldog, released in 1942.
06: Sixten Ivarsson’s 06(a) bent Dublin, released in 1951.
70: Sixten Ivarsson’s 70(a) bent volcano, released in 1967.
35. Anne Julie’s 35(b) bent egg, released in 1975.
169. Jess Chonowitsch’s 169 straight brandy/tulip, released in 198

A six-day set of Stanwell’s 1992 Jubilee pipes in their original case. Image courtesy Nicholas Gutierrez of NG Pipes.

Tom Eltang’s 190 hexagonal-shank billiard, as featured in the ‘Sixtus’ range, released in 1992.

The Bent Egg, shape 35 is an Anne Julie Design which was a Danish Bent Egg originally released in 1975. Now it was time to work on the pipe.

Jeff had cleaned up the pipe with his usual penchant for thoroughness. He reamed the pipe with a PipNet Pipe Reamer and cleaned up the remnants with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the bowl with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap with a tooth brush. He rinsed it under running warm water to remove the soap and grime. He cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and pipe cleaners. He soaked the stem in Before & After Deoxidizer and rinsed it off with warm water. It came in Stanwell Box with Pipe Sock. I removed it from the sock and took photos of the pipe once I received it. I took close up photos of both the rim top and the stem. Jeff had been able to get the grime and lava off of the rim top and it looked pretty incredible. Even the darkening and marks on the rim top on the right side and the back of the bowl look much better. The stem looked very clean. The tooth marks and chatter were minimal and should be easy to remove.The stamping on the underside of the shank was readable as noted above. I also took a photo with the stem removed to give an idea of the perspective and design of the pipe.The inner edge of the bowl was slightly out of round. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the inner edge and bring it back into round.I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the finish of the bowl and shank with my fingers. I want the product to go deep into the finish because it works to clean, enliven and protect the briar. Once I was confident that it was deeply worked into the finish I wiped it off and buffed it with a soft cloth to polish it. The pipe really began to have a rich shine. I took some photos of the bowl at this point to mark the progress in the restoration. The grain really stands out on the pipe in the photos below. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I sanded the stem with 320-1500 grit sanding pads to further blend the sanding marks into the surface of the vulcanite. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with an Obsidian cloth to remove the debris from the sanding.I polished the vulcanite stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding it with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Polish – both the Fine and Extra Fine polishes. I gave it a final coat of oil and set it aside to dry. I am excited to put the finishing touches on this Anne Julie Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Bent Egg 35. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and hand buffed it with microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with the polished black, fancy turned vulcanite stem was beautiful. This Anne Julie Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Bent Egg 35 is nice looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 inch, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.59 ounces/45 grams. It is a beautiful pipe and one that I will be putting in the Danish Pipemakers Section on the rebornpipes store. Thanks for walking through the cleanup with me as I worked over this pipe.

Restoring a Poul Stanwell Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Sandblast 32 Bulldog

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by Steve Laug

Brand & factory were established in 1942 by Poul Nielsen. The company has been owned since 2000 by Nordisk Tobaks Kompagni A/S.

The factory in Borup crafted all Stanwell pipes from 1965 until 2009. From 2010 on the pipes are crafted by Barontini (Italy) exept for the limited editions.

Production (2007): 115 000 Pipes/year – Denmark

‘Jubilee’ (Danish: Jubilaeum) pipes

On occasion, Stanwell released special ‘Jubilee’ pipes, most notably in 1982 (40th), 1992 (50th), and 2002 (60th), though ‘Jubilee’ pipes do exist from Stanwell’s ‘registration era.’

For the 40th (1942-1982) Jubilee, these shapes were:

32: Poul Stanwell’s 32(a), the first shape designed for Stanwell, a classical straight bulldog, released in 1942.
71. Sixten Ivarsson’s 71, a straight pear-billiard with a saddle stem.
118. Sixten Ivarsson’s 118, a slightly bent volcano with a flush flared stem.
119. A quarter-bent Dublin, with an oval rim, and a saddle stem.
64. Sixten Ivarson’s 64(a), a quarter-bent Dublin with a plateau rim and a flush flared stem.
64M. Sixten Ivarsson’s 64M, a version of the 64(a) shape, but with a vulcanite ferrule and a push flared stem.
07. A quarter-bent apple with a diamond shank and a saddle stem.
53. A straight billiard of medium size, with a saddle stem.
108. Tom Eltang’s quarter-bent horn/scoop hybrid with a flared flush stem.
113. A Canadian with a wide, short bowl.
156. Jess Chonowitsch’s 156, a quarter-bent bulldog with a forward cant.
12. A large billiard with a tapered stem (12b).
57. A medium billiard with a tapered stem.

For the 50th (1942-1992) Jubilee, these shapes were:

32: Poul Stanwell’s 32(a), the first shape designed for Stanwell, a classical straight bulldog, released in 1942.
06: Sixten Ivarsson’s 06(a) bent Dublin, released in 1951.
70: Sixten Ivarsson’s 70(a) bent volcano, released in 1967.
35. Anne Julie’s 35(b) bent egg, released in 1975.
169. Jess Chonowitsch’s 169 straight brandy/tulip, released in 198

A six-day set of Stanwell’s 1992 Jubilee pipes in their original case. Image courtesy Nicholas Gutierrez of NG Pipes.

Tom Eltang’s 190 hexagonal-shank billiard, as featured in the ‘Sixtus’ range, released in 1992.

The Bulldog, shape 32 Bulldog is a Poul Stanwell which was a classical straight Bulldog original released in 1942. Now it was time to work on the pipe.

Jeff had cleaned up the pipe with his usual penchant for thoroughness. He reamed the pipe with a PipNet Pipe Reamer and cleaned up the remnants with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the bowl with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap with a tooth brush. He rinsed it under running warm water to remove the soap and grime. He cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and pipe cleaners. He soaked the stem in Before & After Deoxidizer and rinsed it off with warm water. It came in Stanwell Box with Pipe Sock. I removed it from the sock and took photos of the pipe once I received it. I took close up photos of both the rim top and the stem. Jeff had been able to get the grime and lava off of the rim top and it looked pretty incredible. Even the darkening and marks on the rim top on the right side and the back of the bowl look much better. The stem looked very clean. The tooth marks and chatter were minimal and should be easy to remove.The stamping on the shank sides was readable as noted above. I also took a photo with the stem removed to give an idea of the perspective and design of the pipe. I worked some Before & After Restoration Balm into the finish of the bowl and shank with my fingers. I want the product to go deep into the finish because it works to clean, enliven and protect the briar. Once I was confident that it was deeply worked into the finish I wiped it off and buffed it with a soft cloth to polish it. The pipe really began to have a rich shine. I took some photos of the bowl at this point to mark the progress in the restoration. The grain really stands out on the pipe in the photos below. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I sanded the stem with 320-1500 grit sanding pads to further blend the sanding marks into the surface of the vulcanite. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with an Obsidian cloth to remove the debris from the sanding.I polished the vulcanite stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding it with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Polish – both the Fine and Extra Fine polishes. I gave it a final coat of oil and set it aside to dry. I am excited to put the finishing touches on this Poul Stanwell Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Straight Bulldog 32. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and hand buffed it with microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with the polished black, fancy turned vulcanite stem was beautiful. This Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Straight Bulldog 32 is nice looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 inch, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.23 ounces/35 grams. It is a beautiful pipe and one that I will be putting in the Danish Pipemakers Section on the rebornpipes store. Thanks for walking through the cleanup with me as I worked over this pipe.

The second of a foursome of Beautiful pipes sent to me with Potential Burn Out Issues

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by Steve Laug

On November 29 I received an email from a fellow regarding a Moretti that came to him from a dear friend. He stated that it had a burnout and that he had someone ream it for him. I have included his first email below.

Steve, I have a Moretti pipe that belonged to a dear friend. It had a burnout and I had the bowl reamed, but I’m afraid to smoke it. Can you offer a suggestion of how the inside of the bowl can be treated against possible future burnout, or can you fit the bowl with either a meerschaum or graphite liner? – Michael

We talked back and forth regarding the pipe and various options for repair. I agreed to work on them and told him to mail it to me. Once he packed it he added another three pipes to the box that he was sure had the same issues. He mailed them to me on December 8 and sent me another email.

You have convinced me that you’re the person who can help restore my pipes! I shipped 4 pipes to you today by USPS, and declared their value at $5 each for a total of $20 as you requested. I’m embarrassed to admit it, but all four have had burnout issues and I’m hoping that you can clean them out and coat the inside of the bowls as you described. If you feel that more effort is needed, please let me know.

On December 28^th I received the package from Michael. I opened the box and inside there were four beautiful Italian Made pipes. I have listed them below and included photos of the pipes.

Savinelli Autograph Sandblast Bent Cherrywood
2008 Ardor DR bent Dublin
Mastro Beraldi 2 Bent Dublin
2005 Moretti 1 Bent Rhodesian
The second pipe I brought to the table is a Mastro Beraldi 2 Bent Dublin. Overall it looks very good. It is stamped on underside of the shank and Mastro Beraldi [over] Italy [over] 2. The stamping is clear and very readable. The pipe has a mix of black and brown stains on smooth finish and some amazing grain that the shape follows well. The crowned rim cap is covered with great birdseye while the bowl and shank sides have some beautiful straight grain. The finish was very clean and the bowl had a light cake on the walls but the rim top was clean. I inspected the walls of the bowl and could not find any issues or divots in the walls. I spoke with Michael and he mentioned that it looked like it had some small checking/cracking on the walls of the bowl. Initial inspection reveals that the light cracking in the cake on the bowl walls. I would need to examine it further once it had been reamed and cleaned. The acrylic multihued brown original stem is on the pipe and has brass dot on the top of the taper. The stem showed no tooth marks or chatter on either side. I took photos of the pipe to show what it looked like before I started working on it. I took photos of the bowl and rim top to show the clean finish on the bowl. The photos show a moderate cake in the bowl and a very clean rim top. The stem photos show the condition of the taper stem ahead of the button. I took photos of the stamping on the left and underside of the shank. It is clear and readable as noted above. I removed the stem and took a photo of the pipe to give a sense of the proportions of the pipe.I turned to Pipephil’s site to see if I could find out information on the Mastro Beraldi brand and specifically this pipe (http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-m3.html). I have included a screen capture of the section on the page as well as the side bar note

Artisan: Aldo Pierluigi “Mario Grandi” may be a sub-brand of Mastro Beraldi (low end pipes) started in 2006.I then turned to Pipedia and read the section on the brand to see what I could learn about the brand and the carver of the pipe (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Mastro_Beraldi). I quote from that article below:

Aldo Pierluigi emerged as a pipemaker around 1976/77. He stamped his earlier freehand pipes “Per mei amici” (For my friends). As it seems, Pierluigi chose a more commercialised way of pipemaking by creating the Mastro Beraldi line, which is mainly offered in the United States. This is not to say that these pipes are of inferior qual Citation from the homepage:

“Mastro Beraldi pipes are completely hand crafted by Aldo Pierluigi and his family who has been making pipes in Rome since the ‘70s using artisan’s techniques and tools.

The experience acquired in the last 30 years led to the realization of this line of hand made pipes, different one from the others, with the aim of offering to the smokers a high quality product at an excellent price.

The briar wood is Italian and is carefully selected and aged.

The mouthpiece, also by Italian factories, is made of ebonite of the best quality internally strengthened with a special pin to protect against breakage. The finishing touches are obtained with new water colours and varnish.

The rings, trimmings, accessories and packages are individually designed to complement each unique pattern. For the typical manifacture and the selected and used materials we guarantee that this pipe is a totally hand made, made in Italy and ecological product.”

Last year the Pierluigis started a new line of pipes called Mario Grandi. Since December 2006 these pipes are offered exclusively on internet auctions, starting at very low prices. Strange enough, they declare “Mario Grandi” to be a real and living pipemaker…

Considering the prices, these pipes are a good buy, especially if one applies some care to choose the better pieces.

I turned to work on the pipe itself. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer using the cutting heads 2 and 3. I finished the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. I sanded the walls of the bowl with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. I turned to work on the pipe itself. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer using the cutting heads 2 and 3. I finished the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. I sanded the walls of the bowl with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. I then thoroughly cleaned the bowl walls, shank and the airway in the stem. I used cotton swabs, pipe cleaners (both bristle and regular) and Isopropyl alcohol.I scrubbed the bowl and shank with a tooth brush and some undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap. I rinsed it off with warm water to remove the dust and soap from the finish. I dried it off with a soft cloth and it looked much better. I rubbed the briar down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the briar with my fingertips to work it into the finish. The product works to clean, enliven and preserve the briar. I let it sit for 10 minutes then I buffed it with a cotton cloth to deepen the shine. The briar really comes alive with the balm. I mixed a bowl coating of sour cream and activated charcoal powder. I inserted a pipe cleaner in the airway entrance to the bowl to keep it open. I applied it to the walls of the pipe with a folded pipe cleaner and repeated it until I had the walls thoroughly covered. I set the bowl aside and worked on the stem. I sanded the stem with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch pads. I wiped the stem down with an Obsidian Oil cloth after each sanding pad. I polished the vulcanite with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad. I used Before & After Pipe Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine to further polish the stem. I the polished mottled brown acrylic taper stem and the Mastro Beraldi 2 Bent Dublin bowl with Blue Diamond to polish out the remaining small scratches and raise the shine. I gave the stem and the bowl several coats of Carnauba Wax then buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The pipe polished up pretty nicely. This turned out to be a beautiful Mastro Beraldi 2 Bent Dublin with a mottled brown acrylic taper stem. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 6 inches, Height: 2 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 2 inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 2.01 ounces/57 grams. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked this beautiful Bent Dublin. This one will join the first one I restored both will await my completion of the work on the other two pipes Michael sent me. Thanks for looking.

Restoring a Tom Eltang Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Sandblast 190 Hex Shank Billiard

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by Steve Laug

I moved on to work on another pipe. The next one I chose was another Stanwell. We purchased this from our contact in Copenhagen, Denmark on 02/16/2023. The stamping on the pipe was very clear and readable. On a smooth panel on the left side of the shank it reads Stanwell in an arch. On the underside it read Jubilaeum [over] 1942-92. On the right side it read Made in Denmark with the shape number 190. The shank end had a gold coloured band. The stem had a gold inlaid Crowned “S” Stanwell logo on the topside of the hexagonal taper stem. The Jubilaeum series was the 50^th Anniversary line. The shape is a classic 190 Hexagon shank design by Tom Eltang and is easily recognizable as such. The bowl had a moderate cake but there was lava in the sandblast of the rim top. The finish was in dirty condition and was quite polished. The stem was acrylic and had light tooth chatter on both sides ahead of the button. It showed a lot of promise through the grime. I took photos of the pipe before I started my clean up work. I took photos of the bowl and rim top to show the thickness of the cake and the condition of the rim top. The stem photos show the condition of the acrylic saddle stem ahead of the button.The stamping on the underside of the shank is clear and readable as noted above. I also took a photo of the gold Crown S on the left side of the stem. I took a photo of the pipe with the stem removed to give a sense of the proportions of the pipe. The mortise is lined with a nylon liner that makes for a snug and smooth fit in the shank. I started my work on the pipe. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer using the cutting heads 2 and 3. I finished the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. I sanded the walls of the bowl with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. I worked over the rim top with a brass bristle wire brush and you can see the damage on the inner edge of the rim. I used a half sphere and a piece of 220 grit sandpaper to clean up the damage on the rim top and inner edge of the bowl. I gave the bowl a slight inward bevel to take care of the burn damage on the front inner edge of the bowl. I touched up the rim top with a black stain pen to hide the remaining burn damage.I polished the rim top with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch sanding pads to smooth out the scratch marks in the briar. I wiped it down with a damp cloth after each sanding pad to remove the sanding debris. It began to take on a rich shine. I touched up the rim top stain with a Mahogany Stain pen to match the rest of the briar on the sandblast of the shank and bowl. It looks quite good.I cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and both bristle and regular pipe cleaners.I scrubbed the bowl and shank with a tooth brush and some undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap. I rinsed it off with warm water to remove the dust and soap from the finish. I dried it off with a soft cloth and it looked much better. I rubbed the briar down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the briar with my fingertips. The product works to clean, enliven and preserve the briar. I let it sit for 10 minutes while I worked on the stem. After the time passed I buffed it with a cotton cloth to deepen the shine. The briar really comes alive with the balm. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the tooth chatter and light marks on the top and underside of the stem ahead of the button.I sanded the stem surface with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch pads to further blend in the repairs to the acrylic surface. I also sanded the deep scratches in the surface of the acrylic that ran the length of the stem surface. I wiped the stem down with an Obsidian Oil cloth after each sanding pad.I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I gave it a coat of Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil. It works to protect the stem from oxidizing. I set it aside to dry. I am excited to put the finishing touches on this Tom Eltang Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Hexagonal Shank 190 Billiard. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and hand buffed it with microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with the polished black, fancy turned vulcanite stem was beautiful. This Tom Eltang Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Hexagonal Shank 190 Billiard is nice looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.23 ounces/36 grams. It is a beautiful pipe and one that I will be putting in the Danish Pipemakers Section on the rebornpipes store. Thanks for walking through the cleanup with me as I worked over this pipe.

Restoring a Boxed S. Ivarrson Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Sandblast 70 Volcano

2 Replies

by Steve Laug

I moved on to work on another pipe. The next one I chose was another Stanwell. We purchased this from our contact in Copenhagen, Denmark on 02/16/2023. The stamping on the pipe was very clear and readable. On a smooth panel on the underside of the shank it reads Stanwell [followed by] the shape number 70 [over] Jubilaeum 1942-92 [over] Made in Denmark. The stem had a gold inlaid Crowned “S” Stanwell logo on the left side of the saddle stem. The Jubilaeum series was the 50^th Anniversary line. The shape is a classic 70 design by Sixten Ivarrson and is easily recognizable as such. The bowl had a moderate cake but there was no lava in the sandblast of the rim top. The finish was in very clean condition and was quite polished. The stem was acrylic and had light tooth chatter on both sides ahead of the button. It showed a lot of promise through the grime. The pipe was lightly used and was a pretty pipe! I took photos of the pipe before I started my clean up work. I took photos of the bowl and rim top to show the thickness of the cake and the clean rim top. The stem photos show the condition of the acrylic saddle stem ahead of the button. The stamping on the underside of the shank is clear and readable as noted above. I also took a photo of the gold Crown S on the left side of the stem. I took a photo of the pipe with the stem removed to give a sense of the proportions of the pipe. The mortise is lined with a nylon liner that makes for a snug and smooth fit in the shank. I started my work on the pipe. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer using the cutting heads 2 and 3. I finished the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. I sanded the walls of the bowl with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. I cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and both bristle and regular pipe cleaners.I scrubbed the bowl and shank with a tooth brush and some undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap. I also worked it over with a brass bristle wire brush and the soap. I rinsed it off with warm water to remove the dust and soap from the finish. I dried it off with a soft cloth and it looked much better. I rubbed the briar down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the briar with my fingertips. The product works to clean, enliven and preserve the briar. I let it sit for 10 minutes while I worked on the stem. After the time passed I buffed it with a cotton cloth to deepen the shine. The briar really comes alive with the balm. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I filled in the small tooth marks against the button edge on both sides. Once the fills cured I flattened them with a small file. I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to blend the repairs into the top and underside of the stem ahead of the button. I sanded the stem surface with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch pads to further blend in the repairs to the acrylic surface. I wiped the stem down with an Obsidian Oil cloth after each sanding pad.I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I gave it a coat of Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil. It works to protect the stem from oxidizing. I set it aside to dry. I am excited to put the finishing touches on this S. Ivarrson Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Volcano 70. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and hand buffed it with microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with the polished black, fancy turned vulcanite stem was beautiful. This Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Volcano 70 is nice looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 1 ¼ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 inch, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.69 ounces/48 grams. It is a beautiful pipe and one that I will be putting in the Danish Pipemakers Section on the rebornpipes store. Thanks for walking through the cleanup with me as I worked over this pipe.

Restoring a Boxed S. Ivarrson Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 ¼ Bent Sandblast Dublin 06

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by Steve Laug

I moved on to work on another pipe. The next one I chose was another Stanwell. We purchased this from our contact in Copenhagen, Denmark on 02/16/2023. The stamping on the pipe was very clear and readable. On a smooth panel on the underside of the shank it reads o6 [over] Stanwell [over] Jubilaeum 1942-92 [over] Made in Denmark. The stem had a gold inlaid Crowned “S” Stanwell logo on the left side of the saddle stem. The Jubilaeum series was the 50^th Anniversary line. The shape is a classic 06 design by Sixten Ivarrson and is easily recognizable as such. The bowl had a moderate cake but there was no lava in the sandblast of the rim top. The finish was in very clean condition and was quite polished. The stem was acrylic and had light tooth chatter on both sides ahead of the button. It showed a lot of promise through the grime. The pipe was lightly used and was a pretty pipe! I took photos of the pipe before I started my clean up work. I took photos of the bowl and rim top to show the thickness of the cake and the clean rim top. The stem photos show the condition of the acrylic saddle stem ahead of the button. The stamping on the underside of the shank is clear and readable as noted above. I also took a photo of the gold Crown S on the left side of the stem. I took a photo of the pipe with the stem removed to give a sense of the proportions of the pipe. The mortise is lined with a nylon liner that makes for a snug and smooth fit in the shank. I started my work on the pipe. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer using the cutting heads 2 and 3. I finished the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. I sanded the walls of the bowl with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. I cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and both bristle and regular pipe cleaners.I scrubbed the bowl and shank with a tooth brush and some undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap. I also worked it over with a brass bristle wire brush and the soap. I rinsed it off with warm water to remove the dust and soap from the finish. I dried it off with a soft cloth and it looked much better. I rubbed the briar down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the briar with my fingertips. The product works to clean, enliven and preserve the briar. I let it sit for 10 minutes while I worked on the stem. After the time passed I buffed it with a cotton cloth to deepen the shine. The briar really comes alive with the balm. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the tooth chatter and light marks on the top and underside of the stem ahead of the button.I sanded the stem surface with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch pads to further blend in the repairs to the acrylic surface. I wiped the stem down with an Obsidian Oil cloth after each sanding pad.I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I gave it a coat of Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil. It works to protect the stem from oxidizing. I set it aside to dry. I am excited to put the finishing touches on this S. Ivarrson Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 ¼ Bent 06 Dublin. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and hand buffed it with microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with the polished black, fancy turned vulcanite stem was beautiful. This Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Dublin is nice looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 inches, Height: 2 inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.13 ounces/33 grams. It is a beautiful pipe and one that I will be putting in the Danish Pipemakers Section on the rebornpipes store. Thanks for walking through the cleanup with me as I worked over this pipe.