Daily Archives: December 22, 2025

Restoring a Hard-Smoked Dunhill Shell Briar OX Bulldog and Reworking a Badly Damaged Stem


by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the table came to us from a seller in Cleveland, Ohio, USA on 04/26/2022. It is a Dunhill Shell Briar Bulldog with a saddle stem that has been “ridden hard”. It is in rough shape as can be seen in the photos below. It is stamped on a smooth panel on the underside of the shank. On the heel of the bowl it is stamped with the shape number OX followed by Dunhill [over] Shell Briar [followed by] Made in [over] England6 [followed by] Circle 4T. The stamping is faint in spots but still readable. The pipe has a mix of black, cordovan and brown stains on a Shell sandblast finish and some amazing grain that the shape follows well. The finish was dusty and dirty with grime ground into the nooks and crannies of the rugged sandblast. The bowl had a thick cake and there was heavy lava in the sandblasted rim top and edges. The original stem is on the pipe and it is a mess. The button has a crack on the top side and the underside is missing a huge chunk from the button forward about ¾ of an inch or more. Jeff took photos of the pipe to show what it looked like before he started working on it.Jeff took photos of the bowl and rim top to show the thickness of the cake and the lava coat on the rim top. There was some tobacco debris in the bottom of the bowl. The stem photos show the condition of the short taper stem ahead of the button. Jeff took photos of the bowl sides and heel of the bowl to show the deep and rugged sandblast. It is a beautiful looking piece of briar. Jeff a photo of the stamping on part of the shank. He did not capture the shape number or the Dunhill over Shell Briar. It is clear and readable as noted above. One of the first things I like to do is to unpack the stamping and understand each element in it. I turned to Pipephil’s helpful site (http://pipephil.eu/logos/en/dunhill/shell-briar1.html). The stamping is interpreted as follows: The OX is the shape of the pipe which I assume is a Bulldog. The Dunhill Shell Briar is the finish. Following the Made In England6 gives the year that the pipe was made. The circle 4 S is the stamp for a Group 4 in a Shell Briar finish.

I turned to Pipedia’s shape charts on Dunhills (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Dunhill_Shape_Chart). I have included the shape charts from the site. The first is the chart as a whole and the second is a larger version of the right column.From the above information I could see that I was working on a Saddle Bulldog shaped pipe. The chart shows that the OX is the stamping for Saddle Bulldog.

From there I wanted to pin down the date stamp 6. The pipe has a patent number on it so that will also help with the date of this pipe. I have included the Dunhill Dating Key Part 2 chart below for you to follow (http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/dunhill/cledat-en1a.html). The third column shows the date of the pipe. Since it bears the smaller raised suffix 6 it took me to the 1950 box. From there the key tells me to add 1950 + 6 dates the pipe to 1956.I wanted to know more about the Shell Briar/Shell finish and when it was introduced by Dunhill and how that fit the Patent stamp on the bowl. I turned to a listing on Pipedia that gave me the information I was looking for (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Dunhill).

Shell

The Shell is a deep, craggy sandblast finish with a black stain, traditionally applied to soft, beautifully grained Algerian briar. While perhaps not the first-ever use of sandblasting on pipes, the technique perfected by Dunhill is considered one of the brand’s most significant contributions to the art of pipe making. The development is documented in English patent No. 119708/17; preliminary work began on October 13, 1917, and the patent was granted a year later, just weeks before the end of the First World War.

The origin of the finish is famously recounted as an “Accidental Discovery” in early Dunhill catalogues. The story tells of Algerian briar blocks being inadvertently left near a furnace, causing the softer wood to shrink and the harder grain to stand out in a textured relief. The reality, as detailed in the patent application, was a deliberate process of steeping the briar in oil for weeks, followed by a heat treatment. Only then was the sandblast applied to cut away the softer wood, resulting in a durable, lightweight, and cool-smoking pipe.

In 1986, Dunhill introduced a premium version of the Shell finish called the ‘Ring Grain’. These pipes feature a particularly deep blast reminiscent of the classic style of the 1930s to mid-1960s, applied to briar with a superior grain pattern. The ‘Ring Grain’ name was later changed to ‘Shilling’ in 1995. Regarded by many enthusiasts as among the finest modern Dunhills, these pipes are produced in limited quantities and are exceptionally rare.[122][123]

Now I knew that I was working on a Dunhill Tanshell OX Bulldog with a Saddle stem that was made in 1956.

I turned to work on the pipe itself. Jeff had carried out his usual thorough cleanup of the pipe. He reamed the bowl with a PipNet reamer and cleaned up the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the internals of the bowl, shank and stem with alcohol, cotton swabs, shank brushes and pipe cleaners. He scrubbed the externals with undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush. He rinsed the bowl off with running water and dried it off with a soft cloth. He soaked the stem in Briarville’s Pipe Stem Deoxidizer and once it had soaked rinsed it off with warm water to remove the residual solution. He dried it off and rubbed it down to remove any oxidation that was still on the stem. The pipe looked very good when I received it. The bowl and rim top were in good condition but needed work on the blast in the top and damage on the inner edge. The saddle stem had a large piece of vulcanite missing on the underside from the button forward. I took a photo of the rim top to show the condition. You can see the clean bowl and damage to the inner edge of the bowl on the front and back side of the bowl. The stem came out looking clean. The issues noted above are visible in the photos below.I took a photo of the underside of the shank to show the stamping. It is clear, though faint toward the stem and readable as noted above. I removed the stem from the shank and took a photo of the pipe parts to show what I was working with. It is a nice looking pipe.I started by working over the damage on inner edge of the rim. I started with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the inner edge and give it a slight bevel. It looked significantly better.I rubbed the briar down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the briar with my fingertips and a horsehair shoe brush to work it into the nooks and crannies of the sandblast finish. The product works to clean, enliven and preserve the briar. I let it sit for 10 minutes then I buffed it with a cotton cloth to deepen the shine. The briar really comes alive with the balm. I tried filling in the chipped area on the stem surface with Black CA Glue, carefully layering it on the surface. When it dried, it also cracked fell out. I tried another repair with a piece of mesh like Kenneth described in his blog on the stem repair. Once it cured it too cracked along the remaining edges of the stem and fell out. There was nothing I could add to strengthen the repair. With the various avenues of repair unsuccessful I decided to cut off the damaged stem end. I did it with a Dremel and sanding drum and removed all of the damaged area on the stem.

I rebuilt the new button on both sides with the Extra Strength Rubberized/Carbon Black CA glue. I layered it on the stem surface and repeated the process until the stem was workable. I let the repair cure overnight. Once it cured I shaped and flattened it with a small file. I shaped the slot with small files and a small pottery saw. I smoothed out the shape of the newly formed button and slot with 220 grit sandpaper. It looked very good at this point. I sanded the stem and tenon surface with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch pads. I wiped the stem down with an Obsidian Oil cloth after each sanding pad.I polished the vulcanite with micromesh sanding pads – 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each sanding pad. I used Before & After Pipe Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine to further polish the stem. This 1956 Dunhill Shell Briar OX Saddle Stem Bulldog has a beautiful, unique Dunhill Sandblast finish made in 1985. The rich Shell Briar finish that is identified with some great grain around the bowl and shank. It has some great rugged sandblast that Dunhill specialized in making. The polished black vulcanite saddle stem adds to the mix. I put the stem back on the bowl and buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel being careful to not buff the stamping. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax on the buffing wheel and followed that by buffing it with a clean buffing pad. I hand buffed the pipe with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished Dunhill Shell Briar OX Straight Bulldog is quite nice and feels great in the hand. Give the finished pipe a look in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 40 grams/1.41 ounces. This one will be staying here as I do some testing on the durability of the repair under normal conditions. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked over another beautiful pipe Thanks for your time.

Restoring a Tom Eltang Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Sandblast 190 Hex Shank Billiard


by Steve Laug

I moved on to work on another pipe. The next one I chose was another Stanwell. We purchased this from our contact in Copenhagen, Denmark on 02/16/2023. The stamping on the pipe was very clear and readable. On a smooth panel on the left side of the shank it reads Stanwell in an arch. On the underside it read Jubilaeum [over] 1942-92. On the right side it read Made in Denmark with the shape number 190. The shank end had a gold coloured band. The stem had a gold inlaid Crowned “S” Stanwell logo on the topside of the hexagonal taper stem. The Jubilaeum series was the 50th Anniversary line. The shape is a classic 190 Hexagon shank design by Tom Eltang and is easily recognizable as such. The bowl had a moderate cake but there was lava in the sandblast of the rim top. The finish was in dirty condition and was quite polished. The stem was acrylic and had light tooth chatter on both sides ahead of the button. It showed a lot of promise through the grime. I took photos of the pipe before I started my clean up work. I took photos of the bowl and rim top to show the thickness of the cake and the condition of the rim top. The stem photos show the condition of the acrylic saddle stem ahead of the button.The stamping on the underside of the shank is clear and readable as noted above. I also took a photo of the gold Crown S on the left side of the stem. I took a photo of the pipe with the stem removed to give a sense of the proportions of the pipe. The mortise is lined with a nylon liner that makes for a snug and smooth fit in the shank. I started my work on the pipe. I reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer using the cutting heads 2 and 3. I finished the reaming with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. I sanded the walls of the bowl with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. I worked over the rim top with a brass bristle wire brush and you can see the damage on the inner edge of the rim. I used a half sphere and a piece of 220 grit sandpaper to clean up the damage on the rim top and inner edge of the bowl. I gave the bowl a slight inward bevel to take care of the burn damage on the front inner edge of the bowl. I touched up the rim top with a black stain pen to hide the remaining burn damage.I polished the rim top with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch sanding pads to smooth out the scratch marks in the briar. I wiped it down with a damp cloth after each sanding pad to remove the sanding debris. It began to take on a rich shine. I touched up the rim top stain with a Mahogany Stain pen to match the rest of the briar on the sandblast of the shank and bowl. It looks quite good.I cleaned out the inside of the shank and the airway in the stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and both bristle and regular pipe cleaners.I scrubbed the bowl and shank with a tooth brush and some undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap. I rinsed it off with warm water to remove the dust and soap from the finish. I dried it off with a soft cloth and it looked much better. I rubbed the briar down with Before & After Restoration Balm. I worked it into the briar with my fingertips. The product works to clean, enliven and preserve the briar. I let it sit for 10 minutes while I worked on the stem. After the time passed I buffed it with a cotton cloth to deepen the shine. The briar really comes alive with the balm. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to remove the tooth chatter and light marks on the top and underside of the stem ahead of the button.I sanded the stem surface with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch pads to further blend in the repairs to the acrylic surface. I also sanded the deep scratches in the surface of the acrylic that ran the length of the stem surface. I wiped the stem down with an Obsidian Oil cloth after each sanding pad.I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished it with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I gave it a coat of Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil. It works to protect the stem from oxidizing. I set it aside to dry. I am excited to put the finishing touches on this Tom Eltang Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Hexagonal Shank 190 Billiard. I put the pipe back together and buffed it with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel. I gave the bowl and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and hand buffed it with microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. It is fun to see what the polished bowl looks like with the polished black, fancy turned vulcanite stem was beautiful. This Tom Eltang Design Stanwell Jubilaeum 1942-92 Hexagonal Shank 190 Billiard is nice looking and the pipe feels great in my hand. It is light and well balanced. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 inches, Height: 1 ¾ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ¼ inches, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.23 ounces/36 grams. It is a beautiful pipe and one that I will be putting in the Danish Pipemakers Section on the rebornpipes store. Thanks for walking through the cleanup with me as I worked over this pipe.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.