Monthly Archives: December 2013

A Review – An Oliver Camphausen Paneled Horn


A while ago I worked a trade with a fellow pipe smoker on one of the online forums for this beautiful cross-grained horn-shaped pipe from German pipe maker Oliver Camphausen. I had heard of Oliver’s work but had not held one in my hands before. When I received the pictures of the pipe and the offer for a trade I was struck by the shape and the grain. Though I am not a big fan of horn-shaped pipes there was something about this beauty that just grabbed my attention. With little ado the deal was done and the pipe was on its way to Canada.

I did a bit more digging into information about the carver while I waited for the pipe to arrive. There were various European sites that listed a few of his pipes, there were several on EBay available from some of the high-end sellers but I could not find a web site on the carver. I found that. Oliver Camphausen is considered one of the bright new stars to emerge from Germany’s pipe carving scene. His work bears strong resemblance to that of Karl Joura, yet his designs are totally different. I also found out that Pipes and Tobaccos Magazine did a report on him in the Spring 2006 issue.

This particular pipe is gorgeous and gracefully shaped and displays a beautiful “sunburst” cross grain pattern that runs down the sides of the bowl and the shank. The symmetrical grain is terminated with a panel of dense birdseye grain that flows down the front panels and the top and bottom of the shank. It is very comfortable in the hand and the balance is about perfect.The overall length is 5 3/4″. The bowl height measures about 1 3/4″. The tobacco chamber is 7/8″ in diameter and an angled inner depth of 1”. To give an idea of the size I photographed it with a Group 3 sized billiard. The bowl height and the length of the pipe match the billiard very closely.
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The finish on the pipe is very well done. There is a dark understain, either black or dark brown that brings out the cross grain on the side panels and the rings of the birdseye on the front and the back panels. The red oxblood stain serves as a top coat and matches the red in the Cumberland stem. The finish is smooth and there are no sanding marks or scratches in the bowl. It is definitely well finished. The six sides of the panels line up very well and the slightly crowned top on the bowl gives fullness to the look of the rim and top. The curves and angles all are aligned and there is a flow and grace to the lines of the pipe. The inner edge of the rim is chamfered inward and stained to give a finished look to the top of the pipe. The end of the shank is countersunk to give a tight fit for the stem against the shank.
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The stem is hand carved out of Cumberland and matches the colour of the stain well. The stem is six-sided to match the panels on the bowl at the shank end and then all panels blend into a taper from the middle of the stem back to the button. The tenon is Delrin and is perfectly installed into the stem. The tenon fits perfectly against the end of the stem. The tenon is countersunk on the end to give a funneled end where it sits in the mortise. The inside of the stem is smooth with no roughness in the transition between the Delrin tenon insert and the Cumberland stem. Shining a light down the airway in the stem shows a smooth shiny surface with nothing to impede the airflow in the stem.The finish on the Cumberland is glass like and smooth. The fit against the shank is tight three-quarters of the way around the pipe. There is a slight gap on the right side where it does not sit tightly and light can be seen when it is held up to the light. It is not too problematic in that it is only visible against the light.
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The mechanics are excellent. The airway in the shank is centered in the end of the mortise and the tenon sits neatly against the end of the mortise. The curve of pipe made drilling a straight airway a slight challenge. There is a small divot out of the bottom of shank end of the mortise that allowed for a straight shot to the bowl. The end of the airway where it enters the bowl is slightly opened and flared give a smooth transition for the smoke to travel to the mouthpiece. The inside of the mortise and airway is also smooth with no roughness. There is nothing in the airway of the pipe from stem to bowl that would cause impedance in air flow. A fluffy pipe cleaner easily slides the length of the pipe with no snags along the way.
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The pipe came to me pre-smoked so there was no need to break it in as a new pipe. There was already a light cake forming on the walls of the bowl. From what I can see there was no bowl coating used on the inside of the bowl. The cake is hard and smooth on the walls. The previous pipeman smoked English/Balkan tobaccos in the pipe so I have continued that tradition with some aged Rattrays Red Raparee that I have. It smokes very well and is truly an effortless smoke. I was concerned that the walls of the bowl toward the bottom might heat up during smoking as they are not as thick as the upper portion of the bowl. However, I have smoked it for quite a while and the heat is not an issue. The bowl is warm to the touch but never hot.

I am well pleased to have one of Oliver’s pipes in my collection. It is a good smoking pipe and certainly one that is well finished. It remains a pipe that I pick up again and again and turn over in my hands to enjoy the grain – both cross grain and birdseye. The beauty of the colours and subtle shifts in the way the light dances off the grain make it ever-changing and delightful to me. I would gladly purchase another one of Oliver’s pipes should one come by that catches my eye. If you have not had the opportunity to try one I would encourage you to find one and give his work a try. I don’t think you will be disappointed.
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A Review – A Commissioned Alan Stevenson Hand Made Apple


For those who are unfamiliar with Alan Stevenson, a pipemaker from Wisconsin, I am including some information regarding him taken from Pipedia. I think it will be helpful for you to get a feel for the pipe maker before you read my review of his pipe.

“Alan Stevenson is known for his high quality handmade pipes in classic shapes. His trademark hand cut Cumberland stems are a favorite among those who own one or more of his finely crafted pipes. His pipes have a reputation for being some of the best smoking pipes available and their quality is well above their selling price. Alan is a rather modest individual when it comes to his pipe crafting skills, as evidenced from his quote below.” – Pipedia

Quoted from the Alan himself: “My Name is Alan Stevenson and I live in Wausau, WI. I am a very late bloomer for a pipe maker. Have been smoking a pipe since college in 1966. I have always wanted to try making a pipe, so after 30+ years in industry I have retired to my little corner of the garage. Pipemaking for me has really involved a steep learning curve which I have only begun to climb. My background is math, physics and chemistry; I had never touched a wood or metal lathe in my life. Starting at nearly 60 is tougher than most would think.

In 2004 I had tried my hand at a couple of kits from Mark Tinsky and enjoyed working on them. So I paid the kindly Mr. Tinsky a visit in Helena. Mr. Rad Davis was there at that time as well and for a few days I had the privilege of learning a little about pipemaking from these two gentlemen. I left Helena with a couple of pipes, a bunch of briar and some stems and returned to finish working on them in my shop. About 2 years ago I got my nice metal lathe and set about learning how to hand cut a stem. If I ever learn to do that correctly then I might consider that I am a pipemaker. Till that time I am still learning.” – Pipedia

Several years ago I contacted Alan regarding a commissioned pipe that I wanted him to make for me. Earlier I had been gifted one of Alan’s rejects and had stemmed it myself and I loved the finish and feel of that pipe. He had done a great job in laying out the cut of the pipe with the grain of the briar on the reject stummel I had so I wanted to see his magic on a full pipe. I gave him a call and asked if he would carve a pipe for me. My request was pretty simple in that what I wanted was roughly an apple shaped pipe that had a smooth finish. I did not specify colour or finish or even the lay of the grain. I also did not specify a shank extension or the wood that he would use in it. I pretty much left all of the artistry up to Alan to work his magic.
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When the pipe arrived and I have to tell you the shape and finish went beyond what I had in mind when I commissioned it from Alan. It was and is beautiful. The length of the pipe is 5 inches and the bowl height is 1 5/8 inches. The bowl diameter is 1 1/4 inches. The chamber diameter is 7/8 inches and depth is 1 1/4 inches. The lay of the shape to the grain is superb. The sides bear a mix of straight grain and flame. There are spots on the front and back of the bowl which have mediocre grain but Alan did a good job of working that into the finish. The rim, the bottom of the bowl and the top and bottom of the shank have some nice birdseye grain. There is one slight flaw in the briar at the front toward the bottom of the bowl that he blended into the grain of the briar nicely. It looks to me that he used a dark brown stain on the undercoat to highlight the grain and then a tan or light brown stain to cover that and give the pipe a warm hue. He made a shank extension that combines a thin band of Cumberland and a wider band of olive wood. The olive wood is also stained with the tan stain and looks good. The stem is Cumberland and matches the band. The overall flow of the bowl and shank is brilliant and the colours are beautifully matched from rim to the end of the shank.
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Alan did an excellent job on the inner mechanics of the pipe with drilling that is perfectly executed from the shank and into the bowl – coming out exactly centre in the bottom of the bowl. The airway and the inside of the bowl were very smooth with no rough spots left by the drill bit in the bowl or shank. There was no bowl treatment or coating so just a good smooth briar. He had sanded the inside of the bowl and there were no hidden flaws or surprises.

The stem itself is hand cut out of Cumberland. It has a gentle taper from the shank to the button. It has a slight bend to it that gives it a stylized look. Alan did a great job shaping the stem and capturing a shape that really works with this pipe. The stem is nicely finished with no marks or scratches in the Cumberland. The tenon is integrated with the stem and cut into the Cumberland. The fit in the mortise and against the shank is snug. He countersunk the end of the mortise to make for a snug fit of the stem to the shank. There appears to be a slight gap where it meets the shank but as I examine it with a light I think that it is a problem with the stem being slightly larger in diameter than the shank. The end of the tenon is funneled slightly for a smooth transition from the mortise when it is in place. There is a very minimal gap between the end of the tenon and the base of the mortise. The airway is smooth from the entry of bowl airway all the way to the button. The draught is unrestricted and open from the bowl to the tip of the stem. The button is perfect to my liking and very comfortable in the mouth and teeth. The edge is narrow and well shaped. The slot in the mouthpiece is fanned out and is oval in shape. The airway is thus consistent in size from the tenon to the slot. There is no whistle or noise when the air is drawn through the pipe.
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The overall construction of this pipe is very well done. It is light in the hand and in the mouth. It is well balanced and has a shape that fits well in my hand. There are some slight details in the finish of the pipe that in no way affect its smoking ability. They are truly cosmetic in nature. I list them at this point only because to me they are there and others will see them. The first involves the shank extension. There are some spots on the underside of the shank where the epoxy squeezed out between the Cumberland and the olive wood. The second involves the fit of the stem being slightly off. There appears to be gap at the junction as noted above. However, in examining the stem and shank and measuring the diameter of each it is clear that the problem is not a gap but that the stem is slightly larger in diameter than the shank. This could easily be corrected but I have not done so yet. The third issue may appear to be a finicky one to be sure, but it is there nonetheless. The Cumberland of the band and the stem seem to come from different pieces of stock and thus the lines/striations do not line up. This issue does not bother me but some would find it troublesome. Apart from those very simple cosmetic issues the pipe is well made and is a smoking machine.

I have been smoking it for a few years now and after breaking it in with what has become my first love in tobacco, McClelland’s 5100 it has become a great Virginia smoking pipe. It has always delivered a good smoke from the first smoke to the present. It draws well; the lighting has never been a problem. It seemed to take very little time to break it in and continues to be an effortless smoke.
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Thanks Alan for delivering a well made pipe at a great price. It remains a very good smoking pipe through the years since I purchase it. I do not know whether Alan continues to craft his fine handmade pipes but if he does they are worth considering. I see them come up on EBay periodically and one day I will pick another one up. If anyone knows if he continues to make pipes I would love to hear from them. You cannot go wrong with a Stevenson Handmade Pipe.

The Peculiar Particulars of the Pre-formed Pipe, and the Pleasures It Provides – Robert Boughton


Thanks to Robert Boughton for his newest contribution to rebornpipes. It is always a pleasure to read about Robert’s work. He not only reworks old pipes but also does research to provide the historical background of the pipes – something I always have found fascinating.

This subject, that of the little-known unfinished, or pre-formed, pipe having nagged at me for some time to approach but for thinking I lacked suitable samples of previous completed efforts of the same type, which proved erroneous, and for assorted other excuses, all of these being of the good type (as if there were such an animal), at last I find the time to take a holiday, it seems, from my mounting responsibilities, to write it all out.

Guest Blog by Robert M. Boughton
Photos © by the Author

“Who be ye smokers?”
A bewildered crew member in Melville’s Moby Dick (1851), upon
going above-deck to find Ismael and Queequig smoking a peace
pipe (quoted with a nod to our good host, Steve)


Introduction

Let there be no misconception, from the commencement of this essay, as to the precise meaning of the modifier unfinished as I apply it to pipe. To be sure, I do not refer to the stylish, branded varieties sometimes called unfinished pipes in reference to certain fine lines – Savinelli and Baronet, to name a couple – whose pipes of that description are more akin to natural versions of pipe craft, and hence the term natural often applied to them. No, the unfinished, or natural, pipe by any brand name lacks only the final glaze and buffing with waxes with which to complete the process, and also sell for much more than that which I shall discuss with as much brevity as possible. Also, the variation of unfinished pipe of which I will soon find my way to addressing should by no means whatsoever be confused with pipe kits, those more typical introductions to the art of pipe making that involves chunks of briar, in general, with pre-drilled stems that the novice pipe maker then saws, chisels, sands, micro-meshes, buffs, stains, waxes and otherwise lovingly transforms from a veritable lump of wood to a finished mode of partaking of all the world’s smoking tobaccos, the degree of excellence depending on the innate talent of the individual woodworker and maybe some amount of luck.

Therefore, having discussed what I do not mean by unfinished pipe, I will re-name the oddity a pre-formed pipe. In this context, the difference between anything finished by minimum standards and the opposite, the mere basic elements to build one’s own pipe all but from scratch, is easier to comprehend. Thus, my meaning of pre-formed pipe is simply a pre-shaped piece of briar, un-sanded, un-glazed, un-waxed or polished or even showing the grain, in many instances – but with a stem, which may or may not fit as attached. Therein resides the fun and challenge for someone a step or two shy of ready to tackle the difficult enough task presented by even a pipe kit, but prepared to refinish, with considerable detail and elbow work, a pre-formed pipe in the rough.

The owner of my local tobacconist of most frequent choice is good enough to offer a small but ever changing selection of these pre-formed pipes for $12.50 each, with a nice variety of shapes from which to choose, even if those available often defy identification on any official chart of pipe shapes. To me, at least, that is just another part of the charm of these raw pipes in transition from mere rough wood and dull stems to greater things of beauty, regardless of how much or little work is invested by the restorer on the sample. The owner, by the way, tells me her supplier (whom she somewhat enigmatically declines to identify) calls these rough-hewn pipes “stubs,” which in an online search for “smoking pipe stubs” brings up such disparate references as the habit of some pipe smokers to stick a cigar stub in the bowl and puff on it, the usually distasteful dottle of wet, unsmoked tobacco remaining at the bottoms of wet smokers’ bowls, and, yes, Melville’s likeable character in the above quoted novel – which is as massive as the Great White Whale itself – Stubbs (whose greatest sign of character is his large collection of pipes). Again, thanks are due to Steve for pointing this out in an emailed attempt by me to determine the origin of the term stubs in relation to pipes, for upon further thought I recalled the other pipe-smoking characters in Moby Dick adopting the habit of shortening the lengths of their stems, as much as possible in order to tolerate the horrendous stench of rotted fish, through the closer proximity of the pipe smoke to their noses. Perhaps by coincidence, most of the samples of the pre-formed pipes I have seen are indeed on the short side.
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And so, before our weekly meeting Friday night, I once again plumbed the dædal depths of Chuck Richard’s knowledge of pipe lore, and in so doing learned far more than I had anticipated – indeed, everything but a tag better than unfinished or pre-formed, although those adjectives turn out, in a vaguely sad way, to be far too apt: the unfortunate truth of the matter is that the German factory of their origin had never intended to leave these pipe shapes in any condition but complete to a degree noted to that European country. The factory, it seems, simply went belly-up in the 1970s with thousands of the pre-formed specimens sitting there, where most of them were at some point picked up by a U.S. distributor who continues to market them as-is, but not to individuals. (Aha! Thus, the tobacconist owner’s reluctance to disclose the name of her supplier thickens.) Later, a few German pipe interests procured the remainder of the lot and ever since have been selling them to anyone, for the most part in the European Community, who will bite. All of these unfinished pipes, therefore, were cut from decent briar that has aged in the 40-some years since the end of their official production – and are now perfectly suited for the consummation of the process. Perhaps these pre-formed pipes can, as a result, be compared to a fine wine that is left open to breathe. Based on the four or five of these finish-yourself pipes that I have now practiced the art of restoration, this example being the only one I can now document in full (although I am attempting to leave this latest restore pristine), they smoke wonderfully no doubt with or without any further work. But that would not only take away from the ultimate enjoyment of this likely unique and limited edition of unfinished pre-forms, barring the unlikely enthusiasm of a reader to strike out upon the task of building a finish-yourself pipe business; it would also deprive me of the opportunity to get on with the remainder of my tale.

And Now, for Page Two…
As anyone who has ever restored a pipe knows, there are restores, and then there are restores. In any case involving one of these unusual pre-forms, the only real tasks are choosing one with signs of good grain and lack of flaws such as cracks or fillings. In other words, to re-state a theme common to me, somewhat after the old man in Mrs. Robinson advised a memorably disinterested Dustin Hoffman, I have one word for you: sanding!

Here was my little pre-formed pot as I first saw it.
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Unfortunately, I was forced to use my cell phone camera to snap these shots and the others that will follow, and so the clarity of the roughness of the plain briar, with bumps and pits and discolorations a-plenty, is somewhat wanting. But I hope you can see enough to get the general condition of my little pot. Again, I chose it over the assortment of others in more exciting shapes for the beauty of the grain I could hardly make out, and the lack of real blemishes.

Of course, after rigorous sanding – with 80-grit paper followed by 150 – I saw the beautiful grain for which I had purchased this particular pipe, in some places elegantly lined and others more spotted, but overall a clear potential for finishing. Then I used some micro-meshes, starting with 1500, then 2400 and at last 12000.

At that point, I was at a quandary. Should I use a stain, or skip it? The natural beauty of the pale briar attracted me very much. Still, I opted to use an alcohol-based shoe stain of a light brown color, which, as it was almost dry, I held a gentle match flame under the bowl and was gratified with the brief poof of blue as the alcohol in the stain ignited and dissipated.

The next step was an easy buff of Tripoli White Wax. Wow! was my initial thought after my first experience applying Tripoli. The immediate soft luster the preliminary wax bestowed upon the previously smooth but somehow flat bowl and shank gave the wood real dimension.

Again, I pondered long and hard on the idea of adding a coat of Tripoli Red, and during that pause remembered more of Chuck’s words to me before our Friday meeting: “Sometimes a little Red Tripoli on the wood is just what you need, especially to give it deeper color.” Still with more than a little flip-flopping in my stomach, I went for it:
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Wow! was my initial thought after my first experience applying Tripoli Wax. The immediate soft luster the preliminary wax of Tripoli White bestowed upon the previously smooth but flat bowl and shank gave the wood real dimension. But my gentle blessing of the Tripoli Red gave the old briar absolute radiance.

Suddenly, all that remained were a buff with my new stick of carnauba and – come to think of it – quite a bit of work yet to go before the stem would be in order. I don’t know about the rest of you (and I know this places me with the troops in the rear as far as experience goes), but I have developed an undeniable case of what might only be apt to call stem loathing, if I may possibly coin a phrase. I just hate the buggers, as my British friend and fellow pipe smoker Leigh might say, if he didn’t have the habit of speaking the Queen’s English, and even in the tone and style of William, or His Royal Highness the Duke of Cambridge KG KT.

At any rate, with no way around the dirty deed, I went all-in, setting about the task of reducing a downright humongous overhang of the stem where it must, I repeat, must at all costs end up smooth and flush with the shank opening. I tried to be patient with the wretched thing, you see, I really did. Nevertheless, after a day of patiently trying the coarsest micromesh in my trusty box, getting nowhere with that approach and wearing my entire left arm, hand, four fingers and thumb into spasms of pain, there began to creep into my mind more direct and effective means of accomplishing the necessary duty. With far more grace and good sense than I in fact felt, I returned to the 80-grit sandpaper for a quick adjustment of the problem…and the approach actually worked!

That was about the time I realized I had another, nice and shiny, short straight stem I had stashed away with my spare pipe parts, assorted bowls needing serious work and assorted detritus. At the same time, I flashed on a diminutive Chinese pipe given to me by a friend as a joke owing to my known appreciation of certain specimens of that origin. That pipe, which had been covered in gaudy varnish and appeared at first touch to be made of balsa, would be a perfect match for the longer, curved stem I had adjusted as already described. Still, I finished repairing the original stem, micro-meshing away the rough surface where I had brutishly employed the bully force of abrasions, and then applying a good buff with Tripoli Red. But there I go again, off on a tangent, and when this initially homely Chinese pipe might be the subject of a forthcoming blog.

Without further delay, therefore, here are the final results:
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Conclusions
The more I practice restoration as a fledgling, or novice, the higher level of understanding I acquire as to the years required to achieve anything close to master level. At least I am getting quicker on the uptake of that which I now comprehend is limitless information.

What more can I add, except the usual well-deserved thanks to my mentor, Chuck, and my sometime adviser and friend in pipe appreciation, Steve… and everyone else who holds any stock in my ability to learn.

A Review – A Steve Morrisette Tomato


I commissioned this pipe from Steve and had a great time working with him as he designed and executed the work. The pipe is a beauty. Its length is 5 ½ inches and the bowl height is 1 3/8 inches. The bowl diameter is 1 ¾ inches. The chamber diameter is 3/4 inches and depth is 1 1/8 inches. It sports a hand cut acrylic stem. The pipe is a small squashed tomato shape with a ¼ bent stem that fits well in the hand. The shank is shaped like a shield with the right and left sides curving up to a rounded point on the top of the shank. The underside of the shank is a flattened peak with centre ridges that runs the length of the shank. The lower edges of the right and left side are sharp and straight lines that run the length of the shank. From the top the shank flares wider as it moves toward the stem. It has band of black acrylic and then an amboyna shank extension. The stamping is an older Steve Morrisette stamping.
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The finish on the outside of the pipe is a sandblast that is visually very pleasing. It is not too deep a blast but highlights the ring grain on the sides, front and back of the bowl and on the bottom edge of two angular sides of the shank. On the bottom of the bowl and shank is a beautiful sandblasted birdseye that highlights the pattern of the grain. The rim was sandblasted and then sanded smooth leaving a few small birdseye grain visible under the smoothed out blast. There is a thin smooth band between the acrylic band and the shank that was also sandblasted. The mortis is countersunk so that the stem sits into the shank extension. There is a very tactile feel to the sandblast on the bowl and shank that feels great as the bowl warms during a smoke.
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The bowl is stained with a dark brown or black under stain that goes deep into the grooves of the blast and highlights the deeper parts of the blast and the rings and whorls on the birdseye. The higher parts of the blast are stained with a medium brown stain that is a perfect match to the colour of the shank extension. The medium brown is relatively smooth on the rim and on the thin band just ahead of the acrylic band on the shank. In contrast to the bowl and shank Steve cut a black acrylic stem that picks up the thin black band on the shank. The blacks/dark brown stain on the sandblast also provides contrasting highlights to the total package of the pipe. Steve did a great job on the stain and finish of the pipe.
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The stem itself very nicely worked. It is an acrylic stem that is cut at the same flared angles as the shank. The shank extension is crowned and the stem is inset into the crown giving it a very delicate look. The delicate look and feel of the stem deceptive for it has strong lines that form the smooth flat sides of the stem and taper toward the button on both sides. Steve did an amazing job shaping the stem. The short blade of the stem is thin and has a good even tapered flow from the saddle to the button. It is matched in terms of angles on the top and the bottom and on the left and right side of the stem. The design along with the slight bend makes it fit very comfortably in the mouth. It also rests well enough that it can be clenched quite easily. The Delrin tenon has been set into the acrylic of the stem and is the same length as the mortise. The fit is snug. The end of the tenon has been funneled for good airflow.

The button is very thin in width but is elevated above the surface of the stem so that it gives a good edge for holding behind the teeth. It is thinner on the edges with a gentle rise at the centre top and bottom. The slot in the end of the button is inward at the same angles as the exterior of the stem to deliver a mouthpiece that has the same diameter from start to finish. It is also wide open and oval with the same distance from the outer edge of the button to the inner edge of the slot all the way around.
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The mechanics of the pipe are well done. The bowl chamber came with a bowl coating that seemed to be a combination of carbon and a neutral binder. The bowl is drilled at an angle back toward the shank in order to maximize the depth of the bowl with the thin profile of the bent tomato shape. It is also a conical bowl. Steve did a great job with that alignment. I removed the bowl coating before I smoked it and there were no pits or checking in the bowl. The draught hole is centered at the bottom of the bowl and seems to have a slight slope from the bottom to the top of the airhole. There is a very easy and open draw to the pipe. The fit of the stem in the inset shank extension is smooth and tight. The tenon sits deep in the mortise – if not exactly the same length then impressively close! The fit of the tenon is also smooth. The drilling of the draught in the shank is centered in the end of the mortise. The tenon on the stem is drilled to match it and there is no misalignment to the two. The air pulls clearly through the pipe with no whistling at all. Using a light to shine through the various airways reveals smoothly executed airways on the inside. Very nice work on the drilling Steve it is extremely well executed.
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I have been smoking it since I received it and am very happy with it. I have smoked Virginia flake and broken flake tobaccos in it and it packs easily and stays lit. Smoking it is a pleasure and is uncomplicated and effortless. I purchased this one quite awhile ago before Steve moved south to work in a new shop. I have been pleased with it from the start as it has always smoked smooth with none of the new pipe break in woes. Thanks Steve for a well-made pipe that smokes as good as it looks! I am not sure you remember making this one for me but it is one of my favourites.

A Review – A Penguin Briar Straight Apple


I commissioned a straight apple pipe from Kim Kendall of Penguin Briar in August of 2008 and I have had the years since to enjoy it now. It is a beautiful little straight apple sporting a hand cut Cumberland stem. It is stamped with laser cut lettering – Penguin Briar with the emblematic Penguin over 0808 Algerian. It was cut from Algerian briar that was well cured and had been in Kim’s shop for a while getting acclimated. The briar has one small flaw on the bottom of the shank between the stamping and the stem on the underside of the shank and a small one on the right side low on the bowl. Otherwise it is a very clean piece of wood. I don’t have the weight of it. But the measurements are as follows. The tobacco chamber is drilled ¾ inches by 1-3/16 inches deep. The pipe itself is 1 5/8 inches wide and 1 5/8 inches tall.The overall length of the pipe is 5 inches.
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Kim did a great job laying out the shape on the briar. The grain is a mix of flame and straight around all sides, front and back of the bowl and the sides of the shank. There is birdseye on the rim, bottom of the bowl and the top and bottom of the shank. The pipe has a smooth finish and is stained with a 2-step process to bring out the grain. The bowl is round and an apple shape. It was Kim’s take on a Dunhill 3101 shape. The grain is decent on the pipe. I am not sure which stain Kim used first but the understains appear to be darker and serve to make the grain stand out. The overstain is almost an orange red. The combination gives a dimensionality to the finish and matches the Cumberland stem colour well.
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The stem is a hand cut Cumberland taper that angles back to the sloped button where it flares to the same width as the shank junction. It gives the pipe a stubby look like a nose warmer even the pipe is five inches long. It is made of quality material as it has not oxidized in the years I have had it. The tenon is an integral part of the stem and is chamfered inward to form a dished end that is well-polished. The button is the size and shape that works for me–an oval that curves from the edges with a rise to the centre top and bottom, forming an eye shaped end view. It is also slanted from the front of the button to the slot giving it a slightly pointed look.The lip on the button fits well behind the teeth for a comfortable feel. The slot in the end of the button is also funneled and flattened to deliver a mouthpiece that has the same diameter from start to finish. Kim also rounded the ends of the slot giving it a finished look. It is a comfortable and well executed pipe. A pipe cleaner passes easily through the pipe with no obstruction.
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Kim has well-crafted airflow dynamics in his pipes. The draught is clean and easy with no whistling or tightness. It has an easy draw that makes smoking it a pleasure. The bowl chamber is drilled to 3/4 of an inch diameter. The tobacco chamber was uncoated and sanded smooth. The cake built up on the bowl very easily. The draught hole is centered perfectly above the bottom of the bowl and seems to have a slight funnel leading into the shank and stem. The fit of the stem to the shank is excellent – smooth and tight with no light showing at the joint. The tenon fits well in the mortise and sits deep in the mortise against the bottom. The airway is in the centre of the mortise and aligns with the airway in the tenon. The edges of the tenon have been polished and rounded and the airhole countersunk so that it meets the airway in the mortise. Looking at the airways with a flashlight it is clear to see that they are smooth and polished with no rough edges. The interior of the pipe is smooth and polished from the button to the bottom of the bowl.

I broke this pipe in, as is my custom, with some aged McClellands 5100. I have kept it as a dedicated Virginia pipe and it has always delivered a good tasting smoke. It continues smoke cool and dry and deliver good flavor with the Virginias that I choose to smoke in it.

I had been smoking the pipe for some time and was quite pleased with the craftsmanship of Kim’s work. Then out of the blue Kim contacted me with an apologetic request to be given the opportunity to rework the stem and button area on the pipe. He said he had refined his stem and button work and really wanted to bring the one he had made for me up to date with a refined stem and button. I shipped the pipe back to him for his reworking. He sent me the following two photos of the stem work while the pipe was in the mail.
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When it arrived it was clear to me that he had changed the taper on the stem making it thinner and thus more comfortable in the mouth. He also thinned down the button itself making it less chunky and more defined in its overall look and feel. The angles of the junction of the taper and the button were cut sharper and cleaner. The overall comfortableness of the stem was greatly improved and the feel in the mouth was superb. Though I am not a clencher, the pipe was now easily clenched behind the teeth. Here are some pictures of the pipe after Kim’s stem work.
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Kim has provided me with a great smoking pipe, light weight and comfortable in the hand and mouth. If you have not given Penguin Briars a look, here is the link to the website http://www.penguinbriar.com/ . I don’t think that you can go wrong with his pipes.

The Pipe Hunt – Rule # 6: Never let them see your excitement


Growing up I remember a wrestling coach in high school giving us his wisdom regarding our opponents from a particularly tough school. “Never let them see you sweat” was his rule about setting a climate in which you could win over an opponent. For me Rule #6 is a variation on that adage. While a seller is not an opponent they are nonetheless your opposite in the purchase of a particular pipe. To put it simply Rule 6 is “Never let a seller see your excitement about what you have found”. I know this goes contrary to everything in me that wants to shout when I have found a super deal. When I turn over a pipe of a certain shape or colour, or move a pipe from underneath several others I can feel the adrenalin rise as my instinct about the pipe is met with an affirmative. It is at that moment that I hold back my exclamatory “yes” and carefully add the pipe to the lot I am carrying around the shop or have the seller carry it to the cash register to hold until I finish my hunt through the shop. I hold “yes” in and save the exulting until I am in the car or on the pipe forums!

Truthfully, this rule should probably be moved somewhere toward the top of the list of things I keep in mind when on a pipe hunt, because it has become a part of me on the hunt. I am quiet as I move through the store with the clerk as they unlock the cabinets that hold the pipes that I want to see. To help tame my enthusiasm I pick up pipes from the pipes on display that I have no intention of purchasing and “carefully” look them over and make quiet comments. Finally when I have gone through the lot I pick up the object/s of my attention and make a few general comments about the condition. Typically the clerk then carries it to the front for me and I am free to keep looking for more pipes. Though sometimes I carry the new find around the shop with me while I look at other pipes.

Even at the cash register I do not let on about my excitement over a find. I keep up the banter if I am in the mood or just quietly pay the bill and leave the shop. I have found that most sellers in shops or antique malls have no idea regarding the value of their old pipes and rather see them as stage props – hence a high price, or as dirty items that have a minimal value – hence a low price. The only time I talk about the prices is if the prices are outlandish. For instance recently I was in a Northern Alberta town here in Canada and the owner was selling a relatively new Grabow with a chewed stem for $120. I showed her on my phone what a new cost and she shrugged and said that in her town the local theatre guild and actors pay the prices she has for these items to use in their plays. Needless to say I kept my coin in my pocket and shook my head as I walked away.

I am looking for seller who sees the pipes they have as old and dirty items that they hope will sell but are not holding their breath over. I have found some great deals this way. I will give three examples from different times and years of my pipe hunting to illustrate the point. I found a nice mid 50’s Dunhill Shell billiard at a local thrift shop for $12. The sticker covered the white dot on the stem but the shape and blast caught my eye.
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I found a small group 2 sized saddle billiard Dunhill Tanshell from the 60’s for under $20 in an antique mall in the US. It was hidden in a box of old junk pipes in a far corner of the shop. It was not locked in a cupboard but rather in an old porcelain jar with the stems inserted in the jar and the bowls sticking out the top. The blast on the pipe caught my eye so I pulled it out of the jar for a better look and found that I was holding a Dunhill.
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More recently I came across a beautiful Comoy’s Gulidhall Liverpool for $30 in a shop in the Edmonton. It was on a shelf with other old beat up pipes and ratty pipe bags, broken pipe racks and old tins. It was toward the back of the shelf but the grain on this pipe caught my eye and it came with me the rest of the hunt in that shop.
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The trick to this rule is to look and when you see them either pick them up and carry them with you or if the case is locked, note the case number and get the dealer to take them out of the case for you to examine. If the dealer unlocks the case for you then they typically want to carry them to the front for you. Play it cool with this and say that you will continue walk about the shop to look and “think” about your purchase.

You might wonder about the necessity of this rule but I can tell you it is critical in working deals and ongoing future deals with sellers. They key is to know that when you walk away happy with your amazing find, that they also are more than happy to have rid themselves of what they see as an eyesore. I have watched the price change drastically when a seller picks up on my excitement about the great price on a particular pipe. They read my reaction and I have seen the prices both escalate and de-escalate based on my response. I have had them decide quickly to not sell the pipe and when I came back at a later date the price was pushed through the roof and no longer something I would buy. I have also had them immediately back peddle and raise the price while I was standing there with excuses of mismarked prices or mistaken identification. It is critical to play your cards close to your chest when working a deal on these pipes. The words of a Kenny Rogers song, the Gambler hold true here; “You have to know when to hold ‘em and know when to fold ‘em.”

I have learned the lessons of this rule the hard way. It is very difficult to contain my excitement when I find highly valuable, collectible pipe. It is hard to not get worked up with the joy of the find. But I have found that if I do not let the cat out of the bag while I am looking the seller will let go of it at a bargain price of even less than it is marked or at the very least will not jack up the price so that next time you pass through the pipes are marked double and triple the price you paid for the first one. This rule is well worth remembering and practicing as you work the hunt.

Good hunting!

Restemming and Refinishing a Tiny Bulldog


I had one more miniature pipe bowl in my box of pipes for refurbishing and I thought I would finish up the third of the lot. It needed a diamond shaped saddle stem to match the shank on this little bulldog. The bowl was coated with a thick coat of varathane or some kind of plastic coat. It had a small crack in the shank under the brass band. I also was without a stem. The trouble with these little pipes is being able to turn a tenon down far enough to fit the shank.
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I went through my box of stems and found a diamond shank saddle stem that would do the trick. I turned the tenon down as far as possible with the PIMO tenon turning tool and then used the sanding drum on the Dremel to get the tenon size close. I hand finished the fit with 220 grit sandpaper until I had a snug fit on the stem. The stem was a regular sized stem to fit a group 4 bulldog so it was about ¾ inch per side. I reduced the diameter a side at a time with the Dremel until the stem sides were roughly 3/8 inch per side. The Dremel and sanding drum took off the majority of the excess material and then I hand sanded it to fine tune and adjust the angles of the stem and sides.
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The band was loose so I removed it while I sanded the stem to match the shank. Since I planned on stripping the finish off the pipe and refinishing it I sanded both the shank and the stem in the process. Once I had a clean smooth fit I reglued the band in place on the shank with wood glue and pressed it into place.
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I wiped down the bowl with acetone on a cotton pad to try and break through plastic finish on the pipe. It did very little to break down the finish. I sanded the bowl and rim with 220 grit sandpaper and then with 1500 grit micromesh to remove the finish. I repeated the acetone wash after sanding and found that it was more effective once the plastic coat was broken down.
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I restained the bowl with a dark brown aniline stain and flamed it to set the stain. I repeated the process until the coverage was what I was aiming for with the undercoat of dark brown stain. I then gave it a top coat of oxblood aniline stain to get better coverage for the sanded bowl. There were still problems with the stain coat but I set it aside for the time being and turned my attention to the stem.
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The stem was too long in the photos above and gave the pipe an awkward disproportionate look rather than refined look of a miniature bulldog so I cut it down with a sanding drum on the Dremel. I removed slightly over one inch of the length – cutting the stem back to the end of the bend. I cut it straight and made sure that the line of the end of the stem was squared both vertically and horizontally.
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With the length cut back I then recut the button on the end of the stem with needle files. I began by cutting in the line of the button on the underside and the topside of the stem and then used the files to trim back the thickness of the stem from the saddle to the new line of the button. I used a rasp to thin down the thickness of the stem as well. I wanted a graceful flow to the taper of the blade of the stem so I worked it until it was thinner on both the top and bottom sides of the stem from the saddle to the button.
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The next series of seven photos show the gradual transformation of the thick and chunky stem after I had first cut the button to the sleeker look of the stem after the file work. I continue to shape the blade with the needle files until the flow looked right and the edges of the stem were tapered with the line of the diamond saddle.
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I reshaped the slot in the button with the needle files into an oval and opened up the airway into a funnel into the blade of the stem. I sanded the end of the button and the opened slot with a folded piece of sandpaper to smooth out the airway.
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I sanded the stem with a fine grit sanding sponge to minimize the scratches left behind by the 220 grit sandpaper and to give shape and form to the button. The next series of four photos show the shortened and reshaped stem. The length now matches the proportion of the pipe and the angle of the bend and the shape of the button are finished. All that remains is to continue to sand and polish the stem.
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I sanded the stem with micromesh sanding pads from 1500-12,000 grit to remove the scratches and fine tune the shape of the stem. Each grit of pad gave a more refined look to the newly formed stem and button.
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I sanded the bowl with the micromesh sanding pads at the same time as the stem and when finished I restained and flamed the bowl with the dark brown aniline stain until the coverage was better than previously. I buffed the pipe and the stem with White Diamond and then gave it multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed it with a soft flannel buffing wheel to bring up the finished shine. The final photos below show the finished pipe. It is finished and ready for its inaugural smoke.
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I have included some pictures of the pair of tiny pipes that I restemmed – the little Rhodesian and now the little bulldog. They make a nice pair of little pipes.
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Shaping a Stem with a Dremel and Sandpaper


Over the past three years I have been working and developing my own process of fitting stems to pipe bowls. I use both stem blanks and older recycled or reinvented stems that I have collected over the years. It is rare that either of them actually fit the diameter of a shank right from the stem bin. Sometimes I am able to get close to a good fit after turning the tenon and sometimes it is a bit more work. There have been times when I have had to shape a thin taper out of a saddle bit and times I have had to shape a saddle out of a large tapered stem. Doing this I have learned a few tricks that work for me.

While I was restemming an old basket pipe from the bottom of my refurbishing box I thought I would document the process of shaping the stem using a Dremel and sandpaper. In the case of the stem below you will notice that I decided to sand the shank and restain the whole pipe. I don’t always do that and in fact it is rare that I do unless the pipe is one that I intend to totally rework anyway. The stem I chose was a recycled one probably from a City DeLuxe pipe or at least one that bore the five point star stamping. In this case I intended to sand out the stamping as the diameter of the stem was larger than that of the shank. The four photos below show the stem from top, bottom and left and right sides to give an idea of the size of the stem when I started.
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I use a Dremel with a large sanding drum to remove the excess material from the stem at the shank stem junction. I am careful to not damage the shank in the process but push the end of the sanding drum as close to the shank as I can. The next series of four photos show the stem after the sanding drum has done its work. The diameter of the stem is very close to that of the shank at the end of this process.
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The remainder of the fine tuning of the fit I do by hand with folded sandpaper to shape and match the stem and the shank. On this pipe the finish on the pipe was a heavy dark varnished stain that I was going to remove from the pipe for refinishing so I sanded the shank the same time I sanded the stem. The next five photos show the stem and shank after sanding with 220 grit sandpaper to match the two surfaces.
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I buffed the stem and shank with red Tripoli to remove some of the surface scratching before I went on to sand the stem with a medium grit sanding sponge. The next two photos show the stem after sanding with the sanding sponge. The stem and shank fit is very tight and smooth and the feel of the transition from briar to vulcanite is almost seamless.
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On this pipe I decided to band the shank for cosmetic purposes so the remaining photos show the shank banded. You will note though from the above photos that the stem fit is actually very smooth and clean. I sanded the stem with micromesh sanding pads to remove the scratches and bring out the deep shine of the polished vulcanite. The final three photos show the fit of the stem after sanding with the micromesh sanding pads. From this point I wiped the stem down with Obsidian Oil and then buffed it with carnauba wax to finish the work.
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A Complete Reworking of a Zettervig Freehand


Blog by Steve Laug

I was chatting with a friend on one of the pipe forums that I frequent and he asked me about restemming an older 60’s vintage Zettervig freehand for him. I had a couple of stem possibilities sitting here so I figured why not. He sent the following pictures to show how the previous owner had pressed a Dr. Grabow metal mortise into the mortise of the Zettervig and then cut back a Grabow screw on tenon and added a metal washer as a spacer and screwed in the Grabow stem. He had reamed the pipe and done an internal cleaning before he sent it to me. But the externals looked pretty much the same as it does in the photos below. The plateau on the shank end was dirty and faded and the plateau on the rim was the same with a buildup tars that made the crevices and grooves in the plateau almost non-existent. It too was faded and worn looking.
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I had no idea about the brand and not read anything about it. I did a bit of digging to see what I could learn about it. I am always curious about learning about brands that are unfamiliar to me. The following comes from Pipedia
“In the 1960’s and into the early 1970’s Ole Zettervig had a shop in Copenhagen, Denmark where he was carving high quality pipes equal to Stanwell, Larsen, Anne Julie, Thurmann, Bang and others. These early pipes were marked “Copenhagen” and are very collectible. He sold his shop at some point in the 70’s and moved to Kolding and continued to produce pipes as a hobby, but the quality of briar and workmanship is said to not equal the early production. The later pipes he now marked as Kobenhaven rather than Copenhagen, and these were sold by Ole at flea markets throughout Europe.” http://www.pipedia.org/wiki/Zettervig
When it arrived I drilled out the metal insert in the shank and cleaned up the shank with pipe cleaners and cotton swabs. I then sorted through my stems and found several possibilities. I sent him the following two photos of the stem options and he chose the one that is inserted in the pipe. It actually came from a Danish Freehand that I had here and restored. I like less chunky stems so this one went to the parts bin. He liked it so it was the stem that I would work on for this pipe.
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I gave the pipe a cleanup reaming with the PipNet reamer and cleaned out the shank one last time. I scrubbed the bowl and the plateau on the shank and rim with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a brass tire brush to break away the tarry buildup. I rinsed it under running water to remove the soap. I wiped the bowl down with acetone on a cotton pad to remove the remaining finish and then sanded the bowl and the shank with micromesh sanding pads 1500-2400 grit to polish the minute scratches that were present. I stained the plateau portions of the pipe with a black aniline stain and then wiped them down with a cotton pad wetted with Everclear to give the black a little transparency. I gave the rim and shank end a light buff with White Diamond. The newly stained plateau is visible in the photos below.
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I also stained the bowl with an oxblood aniline stain. I applied and flamed it and reapplied and reflamed until I had the coverage that I wanted on this pipe. The photo below gives a side view of the pipe.
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I buffed the bowl and stem with White Diamond. I then took it back to the work bench and sanded the stem and the bowl with micromesh sanding pads from 1500-12,000 grit to give the finish on the stem and bowl a deep shine. Once I had finished that I took to the buffer and gave it multiple coats of carnauba wax to protect and shine it even more. The finished pipe is in the photos below. It is now on its way back to its owner.
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Installing a GBD Rondelle on a New Stem


Today I finished restemming a GBD 9438 with a new tapered stem. The original saddle stem was unrepairable. I removed the rondelle from that stem and studied how it had been installed. From the appearances of the stem it looked like it was heated and pressed into the vulcanite. Once the rondelle was pressed in it was removed and then glued in place. I used a soldering iron to heat and press the rondelle into the vulcanite. I placed it on the surface of the stem where I wanted it to end up. I measured the distance from the shank stem junction on the original stem and set this one in the same place.
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I plugged in the soldering iron and pressed the tip into the rondelle. I pressed it against each of the ends and the middle until is sank into the surface of the stem. Once it was set and the oval was marked in the stem I took it back to the work table to glue it in place. I lifted it from the stem and used a two part epoxy to glue it in place. I put a spot of the glue mix into the oval divot on the stem and pressed the rondelle into place.
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When the glue had set I sanded around the rondelle with micromesh sanding pads from 1500-2400 grit. I wanted to smooth out the vulcanite around the rondelle and shine the stem again. In the photo below I have included the original stem to show the pressed divot of the rondelle in the vulcanite. The GBD letters were pressed into the surface and left their mark. The divot under the rondelle on the new stem looked identical to this before I glued it in place.
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The two photos below show the finished installation of the rondelle in the stem. The fit of the rondelle is approximately the same as it was in the original stem. It is a nice finishing touch to the restoration of this old pipe. Thanks to those of you who commented on the previous restoration article on this pipe and encouraged me to use the rondelle on the stem. I appreciate the suggestions and now will enjoy the finished look of the pipe.
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