Tag Archives: Peterson’s System Pipe 312

Rejuvenating the first of two Peterson’s System Pipe 1312


Blog by Steve Laug

I have written about the first three pipes from an estate lot that I was tasked to clean up and sell in three previous blogs at https://rebornpipes.com/2016/10/25/this-favourite-gbd-marquis-752-was-a-mess-not-any-more/; https://rebornpipes.com/2016/10/26/rescuing-a-petersons-english-made-203-billiard/;  https://rebornpipes.com/2016/10/27/rejuvenating-a-petersons-system-pipe-1314/. These included a GBD Marquis Author, a Peterson’s English Made 203 billiard and a Peterson’s 312 System Pipe. I am including a short version of the acquisition for those who have not read it. My friend has a pipe shop that is closing and he had some pipes that had belonged to an elderly gentleman who had died. His wife had given him the fellow’s pipes. She wanted to get them cleaned up and sold to folks who would appreciate them. Richard thought I would be interested in the story and have fun cleaning these up and selling them. There some really nice pipes in the lot – GBD’s, Comoy’s, Stanwells, Petersons, two ceramic Goudewaagen pipes, and others. There are just over 50 pipes that I will be cleaning and listing on rebornpipes.

The fourth pipe I chose to work on was another Peterson’s System Pipe. It is stamped Peterson’s System Standard pipe on the left side of the shank. On the right is stamped Made in the Republic of Ireland 1312. The stamping is clear and sharp. The nickel ferrule is stamped K&P Peterson’s and has the three faux hallmarks that are for looks.  The bowl is thickly caked and the rim is dirty. The finish is in decent shape with a medium brown stain over flame and straight vertical grain. The stem is oxidized with some calcification around the P-lip button. Light tooth chatter covers both the top and underside of the stem. There is no P stamping on the P-lip stem but it appears to be an original not a replacement.

Here are some photos of the pipe when I started cleaning it. The pipe has good lines and some interesting grain underneath the grime.pete1 pete2 pete3I took some close up photos of the bowl, rim, stamping and the stem to give and idea of the issues I had noted above. The first photo shows the thick cake in the bowl and the overflow onto the rim top. The next photos show the oxidized nickel ferrule on the end of the shank and the clear stamping on both sides. The last two photos in this set show the chatter and detail of the stem.pete4 pete5 pete6I reamed the bowl with a PipNet reamer starting with the smallest cutting head and working up to the third cutting head. I took the cake back to bare briar. I cleaned up the inside of the bowl with the Savinelli Pipe Knife. I rolled a piece of 220 grit sandpaper around my finger and sanded out the inside of the bowl and smooth out the inner rim edge.pete7 pete8I scrubbed the exterior of the bowl with alcohol on cotton pads to remove the grime, waxes and oils. It has some beautiful grain shining through on the cleaned briar.pete9 pete10I cleaned the interior of the mortise and the airway in the shank and stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol until they were clean. I spent extra time in the trap in the bottom of the shank.pete11I polished the ferrule with tarnish remover and silver polish on cotton pads to remove the oxidation. The nickel really shone once the tarnish was removed.pete12I worked on the tooth chatter, oxidation and calcification on the stem with 220 grit sandpaper until I had removed the damage and build up.pete13I polished the stem with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-1200 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12000 grit pads. I rubbed the stem down with Obsidian Oil after each set of three pads. After sanding with the final set I rubbed it down once again and set it aside to dry.pete14 pete15 pete16I buffed the pipe and stem with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel to raise the shine and polish it further. I gave the pipe multiple coats of carnauba wax and buffed it with a clean buffing pad to shine it. I finished by hand buffing the pipe with a microfibre cloth. This adds some depth to the shine. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. This pipe is for sale along with the others that I have cleaned up from the estate. If you are interested in adding it to your collection send me an email to slaug@uniserve.com or a message on Facebook. Thanks for walking through the process with me.pete17 pete18 pete19 pete20 pete21 pete22 pete23 pete24 pete25 pete26 pete27

 

Cleaning up a Peterson 312 System Pipe


Blog by Steve Laug

The Peterson I picked up on my trip was in great shape externally. The seller at the antique mall had cleaned up the outside of the pipe and polished the stem and bowl. The pipe was clean and shiny. The stamping was very clear on the ferrule and shank. The ferrule was stamped K&P Peterson’s and had three faux hallmarks as usual on the nickel ferrule of Peterson pipes. The shank was stamped on the left side with an arched Peterson’s over System and over Standard. On the right side of the shank the shape number has been stamped over with Made in the Republic of Ireland. The shape number is present under the over stamp and I can read the first two numbers clearly – 31_, but the third number is covered with other letters so it is not readable.Pete1 Pete2 I wanted to figure out the number stamping that lay hidden under the Made in the Republic of Ireland stamping. I went to the Peterson site and looked for the shape charts. I was able to identify the shape as a 312. Here is the link to the shape http://www.peterson.ie/p/5291/312-standard as well as a picture of the shape 312.0002552_312-standard_430 I also found this shape chart of Peterson System pipes on Pinterest and included the link to it here: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/464996730250913354/ I was particularly interested in noting the size variation between the 312 and the 314. While the shapes are very similar the 314 is significantly smaller than the 312.Pete3 The bowl had been wiped clean and had no cake inside. The rim was dirty and darkened with a thin buildup of carbon and oils. The inside rim was clean and the bowl was in round. There were no serious nicks in the bowl edges. The nickel band was polished and undented. The stem was lightly oxidized and had a light tint of brown. There were no tooth marks or bite marks on the stem. The pipe was in good shape and would be one of my easier clean ups. The inside of the shank and sump had a lot of tars built up inside. The airway was also dirty. The seller had used silver polish on the ferrule and there was a white buildup on the inside edges of the shank.Pete4 Pete5 Pete6 The next photo below shows the underside of the bowl and stem. Both the finish and the stem were in great shape with no visible dents or damage.Pete7 The tenon was wide open like it had been made for a filter. It could hold a paper Medico style filter. I have never seen a filter version of the system pipe. I am wondering if the stem is a replacement or possibly it was drilled out to open it up to receive the paper filter. Obviously the internals had not been cleaned. There was a buildup of hard carbon on the tenon end and on the inside of the tenon. It was hard and would not easily be removed.Pete8 I cleaned up the stem and the sump with cotton swabs, pipe cleaners and isopropyl alcohol until they came out clean. I used a lot of pipe cleaners and cotton swabs before it was clean. I softened the carbon buildup on the tenon with alcohol and then sanded it with 220 grit sandpaper and scraped it away with a small blade to remove the hardened carbon.Pete9 Pete10 The bowl and shank had a heavy aromatic tobacco smell so I stuffed them both with cotton balls and used an ear syringe to put alcohol in both the bowl and shank. I set the bowl upright in an ice-cube tray and let it sit while the alcohol and cotton wicked out the oils and tars and sweetened the pipe. By doing this the pipe would be reset and could be smoked with any tobacco without picking up residual tastes.Pete11 Pete12 While the bowl sat soaking I worked on the stem to remove the oxidation. I sanded it with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12,000 grit pads. I wiped it down with Obsidian Oil between each set of three pads.Pete13 Pete14 Pete15 I buffed it with White Diamond on the buffing wheel. Then I gave it several coats of carnauba wax and buffed it to a shine with a soft flannel buffing pad.Pete16 Pete17 Pete18 Pete19 After the bowl had been sitting for 4 hours I took the photo below and then pulled out the cotton balls. The alcohol had evaporated and left behind a brown/amber residue on the cotton balls. Once the cotton was out I ran a folded pipe cleaner through the bowl and the sump area of the shank. It came out clean. I ran a straight cleaner through the airway into the bowl. It also picked up a slight bit of residue from the soak but it was clean after a few swabs. Best of all the smell of the aromatic tobacco was gone and what was left was a clean new pipe smell.Pete20 Pete21 Pete22 When the shank was dry I put the newly polished stem back in the shank. I gave the pipe a quick buff with some carnauba and polished it with a shoe brush to raise the shine. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. It has some slight rim darkening from the previous owner but otherwise it is like new. The bowl and shank are fresh and ready to be loaded with a bowl of fine Virginias or some Virginia/Perique. I have some aged 5100 sitting in a jar here ready to smoke and also a small jar of some blending Perique so I may have to mix a small batch just for the inaugural smoke on this pipe…The briar is beautiful and the refurbished pipe came out very nice. I am looking forward to having a bowl very soon – just have to let the bowl dry out and air for a couple of days before I load it up and smoke it. In the meantime I will just look it over and enjoy the beauty of the pipe.Pete23 Pete24 Pete25 Pete26