Daily Archives: January 11, 2024

Exploring the Origins of a 60s/70s ‘Space Age’ Pyrolytic Graphite/Phenolic Resin the pipe English Blue Bulldog


While I am not personally a fan of these pipes you have done a stellar job cleaning it up. The information you gathered and modified procedures are worth repeating so folks know the background and steps to clean it up.

The next pipe on the table is a quintessential ‘60s/70s’ Flower Power pipe – at least that’s the vibe I get looking at it.  It came to me in …

Exploring the Origins of a 60s/70s ‘Space Age’ Pyrolytic Graphite/Phenolic Resin the pipe English Blue Bulldog

Is resurrection possible with this heavily gnawed Canadian Made Brigham 241 Two Dot Acorn


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe on the table is one of those “accidental” pickups that happen when you do this kind of restoration work. I was in communication with a lady in another part of British Columbia about repairing a pipe she had picked up in her journeys. She wanted to know if it was repairable and what I would charge for a repair and restoration. I asked her about the brand and the condition of the pipe and what the nature of the repairs would be. She told me the pipe was a Brigham and that it was covered in nicks and chips around the bowl, rim top and shank. She said it was heavily marked. I asked her to send me some photos of the pipe so I could see what needed to be done. She had not exaggerated on the chips, it reminded me of a pipe I had worked on that someone’s dog had gotten a hold of and gnawed to its current condition. I sent her a price on the restoration of the bowl and the removal of the oxidation on the stem surface. She thought about it and decided to pass and dispose of the pipe. I had a brain storm and offered to buy it from her for what she had paid and the postage to send it to me. We struck a deal and she put it in the mail to me. I received it earlier this week. I opened the package and took the pipe out of the package. The pipe was a rusticated ¼ bent acorn with a black vulcanite stem. The stamping on the underside of the shank has the shape number 241 on the underside of the shank followed by Brigham in script. The vulcanite stem has a two brass dots inserted on the left side. Other than the gnawing on the rustication – heavier on the right side than the left and marks on the rim top it was nice looking pipe. The big surprise for me was that the pipe had not been smoked. The bowl was clean and had a light coat of stain and the tenon had a brand new Brigham Distillator Hard Maple Filter. The ¼ bent vulcanite stem works very well with the bowl. It is light weight and comfortable pipe to hold. To summarize what I saw – this Brigham Canada 241 Acorn is a well made pipe. The bowl and shank show the gnaw marks on the sides of both and the rim top. The stem was oxidized more heavily on the top than the underside and there were marks left behind by glue from price stickers. The look and feel of the pipe in the hand is great. It will be an interesting pipe to work on. I took photos of it before I started my work. I took close up photos so that I could have a clearer picture of the condition of the bowl, rim edges and top. The rim top photos confirm my assessment above. The bowl is unsmoked and there are scratches and nicks in surface. On the left and right sides there are nicks in the outer edge. The inner edge is in excellent condition. The stem is oxidized – more heavily on the topside than the underside, which suggested that it had been sitting in the sun. There were no tooth marks or chatter on the surface. There was also some sticky substance left behind by a price tag on the underside.I took photos of the stamping on the underside of the shank. On the underside of the shank it is stamped with the shape number 241. That is followed by Brigham in script. The vulcanite stem has two brass pins in the left side of the taper. The stamping is faint around the shape number and a little blurred. There is no Canada stamp under the Brigham.I am also including the information from Pipedia’s article on Brigham pipes. It is a great read in terms of the history of the brand (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Brigham_Pipes). Charles Lemon (Dadspipes) is currently working on a book on the history of the brand. Even though the book is written I still use this material for a quick overview.

Roy Brigham, after serving an apprenticeship under an Austrian pipesmith, started his own pipe repair shop in Toronto, in 1906. By 1918 the business had grown to include five other craftsmen and had developed a reputation across Canada for the high quality of workmanship. After repairing many different brands of pipes over the years, Roy noted certain recurring complaints by pipe smokers, the most common referred to as “tongue bite”. Tongue bite is a burning sensation on the smoker’s tongue, previously thought to be due to the heat of the smoke (i.e. a “hot smoking pipe”).

He soon began manufacturing his own pipes, which were lightweight, yet featured a more rugged construction, strengthening the weak points observed in other pipes. The problem of tongue bite intrigued him, and he decided to make overcoming it a future goal.

About 1938, Roy’s son Herb joined him to assist in the business. The business barely survived the great depression because pipes were considered to be a luxury, not a necessity, and selling pipes was difficult indeed. In approximately 1937 [1], after some experimentation, Roy and Herb discovered that tongue bite was in fact a form of mild chemical burn to the tongue, caused by tars and acids in the smoke. They found that by filtering the smoke, it was possible to retain the flavour of the tobacco and yet remove these impurities and thereby stop the tongue bite.

Just as Thomas Edison had searched far and wide for the perfect material from which to make the first electric light bulb filaments, Roy & Herb began experimenting with many materials, both common and exotic, in the quest for the perfect pipe filter. Results varied wildly. Most of the materials didn’t work at all and some actually imparted their own flavour into the smoke. They eventually found just two materials that were satisfactory in pipes: bamboo and rock maple. As bamboo was obviously not as readily available, rock maple then became the logical choice.

They were able to manufacture a replaceable hollow wooden tube made from rock maple dowelling, which when inserted into a specially made pipe, caused absolutely no restriction to the draw of the pipe, yet extracted many of the impurities which had caused tongue bite. The result was indeed a truly better smoking pipe…

I then turned to a second article by Charles Lemon called, “A Closer Look at the Dots, Dates, and Markings of Brigham Pipes” to be able to pin down the time frame that the pipe was made in and to help interpret the stampings and shape number on the pipe. Here is the link to his article (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Brigham_Pipes_%E2%80%93_A_Closer_Look_at_Dots,_Dates_and_Markings).

I have dubbed the decades between 1980 and 2000 the Late Canadian Era, a period that saw several changes at Brigham that are of note to the collector. First, the traditional 8-grade pinning system (the famous Brigham “Dots” which denoted the quality of the pipe) was changed to a 7-grade system to simplify pinning (more on this below), and the Norsemen and Valhalla series were merged to form the President Series, which represented the very finest pipes coming out of the Toronto factory. Early pipes from this era (left, below) are stamped with a shape number and “Brigham” over “Canada”; later pipes (late 1980s+, on right below) are stamped simply with a shape number and the Brigham logo.

I read further in the article to the section entitled Revised Dot System 1980. I quote from that below.

Brigham changed the Dot system in 1980, adding a 7 Dot at the top of the line, dropping the names of each series and eliminating the confusing vertical and horizontal 3 Dot configurations. The Norsemen and Valhalla series were combined to form the President series of freehand pipes, which adopted a 3 Dot pattern with a larger dot on the right as shown below. The 7- grade pinning system stayed in place from 1980 to 2001. With the information from article and the chart above I knew what I was dealing with in terms of the stamping and the age of this pipe. I learned that this Late Canadian Era was made between 1980-2000. The pipe is a Brigham (2-Dot) 241 Acorn. The stamping pins it down to 1990 and following. Now it was time to work on the pipe.

I took of the photo of the most damaged portion of the bowl side – the right side. You can see the deep nicks and gouges on surface of the bowl. These would be the first things that I would address. I stained the spots on the bowl with a Mahogany stain pen to blend them into the surrounding rustication around the bowl. Once stained it looked much better. Next turned to deal with the rim top. I wiped it down with a cotton pad and alcohol to remove the fragments of the finish and clean out the debris in the gouges along the outer edge of the bowl. I sanded the rim top with the 500-1500 grit sanding pads to smooth it out. I polished it with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding it with 1200-15000 grit pads. I wiped the bowl down with a damp cloth after each sanding pad. The grain really started to rise to the surface as I polished it. I used a Cherry Stain Pen to touch up the rim top and blend it into the surrounding stain around the bowl rustication. It looked amazingly good.I rubbed the bowl and shank down with Before & After Restoration Balm to deep clean the finish on the bowl and shank. The product works to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I worked it in with my fingers to get it into the briar. I used a horsehair shoe brush to work it into the sand blast. I let it sit for 10 minutes then I wiped it off and buffed it with a soft cloth. The briar really began to have a rich shine. I took some photos of the bowl at this point to mark the progress in the restoration. It is a beautiful bowl. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. I sanded the surface of the vulcanite with the 2 inch sanding pads – 320-3500 grit pads. I dry sanded the surface until I have removed all of the oxidation and the stem started to really shine.I refit the aluminum tenon with the Brigham Hard Rock Maple Filter Distillator. It is a unique and cool smoking experience.I polished light tooth marks and chatter out of the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished the stem with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I gave it a coat of Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil. It works to protect the stem from oxidizing. I set it aside to dry. The final steps in my process involve using the buffer. I buffed the bowl and stem with Blue Diamond to polish out the light scratches in the briar and the vulcanite. I gave the bowl multiple coats of Conservator’s Wax and the stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I have found that I can get a deeper shine if I follow up the wax buff with a buff with a clean buffing pad. It works to raise the shine and then I hand buff with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. It is always fun for me to see what the polished bowl looks like with the polished stem. It really is a nice pipe. The rusticated finish around the bowl sides and shank looks great with the vulcanite stem. The Brigham Canada Acorn 241 feels great in my hand. It is a well balanced pipe. Have a look at it with the photos below. The dimensions are Length: 5 ¾ inches, Height: 1 ½ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 3/8 inches, Chamber diameter: 7/8 of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.20 ounces/34 grams. It is a beautiful pipe that I will soon be adding to the rebornpipes store in the Canadian Pipemakers Section. If you would like to add it to your collection let me know. It should be a great smoking pipe.

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.

Is there any hope that this Made in Denmark Bari Dana 20 can be Reborn?


Blog by Steve Laug

The next pipe I am working on was purchased on 03/05/2020 from an antique store in Logan, Utah, USA. This was a wreck of a pipe with a lot of wear and tear and obviously it had been someone’s favourite smoker. It was one of those pipes that when I look at I wonder why we picked it up. Only when I look closely can I seen the interesting grain around the bowl and shank. The pipe is stamped on the topside of the shank and reads Bari [over] Dana. On the underside it is stamped Made in Denmark [over] the shape number 20. The dirty smooth finish was not able to hide the beauty of the grain around the bowl and shank. There were tars and oils ground into the surface of the briar. There were fills missing on the right side of the bowl near the top and also on the left side at the shank junction. There were some flaws on the underside and on the front of the bowl. The bowl had a very thick cake that flowed over the top of the smooth rim in a heavy lava coat. The inner edge was so heavily coated that it to assess its condition. The stem was a black vulcanite oval, saddle stem stamped BARI on the top of the saddle. It had some light tooth marks and chatter on both sides ahead of the button. It had a lot of oxidation and calcification on the first inch of the stem ahead of the button. The stem was in far better condition than the bowl. Jeff took photos of the pipes before he started his clean up work.Jeff took photos of the rim and bowl to show the heavy cake and heavy lava coat covering the rim top. The inner edge of the rim appeared to be OK under the cake and lava. It really was a dirty pipe but still had some interesting grain and features to the shape. He also took photos of the stem surfaces to show its overall condition when it arrived. The photos of the sides and heel of the bowls show some interesting cross grain. The brown stain on the briar adds depth finish on the pipe and makes the grain really stand out on the sides. Jeff took photos of the fills and flaws on the right side of the bowl near the top as well as the nicks and scratches on the left side of the shank.He also took photos of the stamping on the sides of the shank. It is clear and reads as noted above. The top of the stem is stamped on the saddle BARI and was once filled in with white paint. It is also in good condition. Before I started working on the pipe I wanted to do a bit of work on the Bari Dana line to gather some information. I started with Pipephil’s site (http://www.pipephil.eu/logos/en/logo-b1.html) and was surprised to find that the second photo in the post was a Bari Dana and that it was stamped exactly as the one I am working on. I have included a screen capture of the section and the side bar notes below.Brand founded by Viggo Nielsen in 1950 and sold to Van Eicken Tobaccos in 1978. At this time Age Bogelund managed Bari’s production. The company has been bought in 1993 by Helmer Thomsen. Bari’s second: Don, Proctus

I turned then to Pipedia to see there as anything on the Dana line (https://pipedia.org/wiki/Bari). There was nothing specific there. It did have a great short overview of the history of the company. I quote below.

Bari Piber was founded by Viggo Nielsen in Kolding around the turn of 1950/51. Viggo’s sons Kai Nielsen and Jørgen Nielsen both grew into their father’s business from a very young age and worked there till 1975.

Bari had very successfully adapted the new Danish Design that had been started mainly by Stanwell for it’s own models. When Viggo Nielsen sold Bari in 1978 to Joh. Wilh. von Eicken GmbH in Hamburg Bari counted 33 employees.

From 1978 to 1993 Åge Bogelund and Helmer Thomsen headed Bari’s pipeproduction. Thomson bought the company in 1993 re-naming it to Bari Piber Helmer Thomsen. The workshop moved to more convenient buildings in Vejen. Bogelund, who created very respectable freehands of his own during the time at Bari got lost somehow after 1993.

Bari’s basic conception fundamentally stayed the same for decades: series pipes pre-worked by machines and carefully finished by hand. Thus, no spectacular highgrades but solid, reliable every day’s companions. The most famous series are the smooth “Classic Diamond” and the blasted “Wiking”.

So now I knew that I was working on an older one! The pipe was probably made between 1951-1975 when Viggo Nielsen was making pipes. Now it was time to start my work on the pipe.

I was looking forward to looking over the damages on the bowl and shank after Jeff cleaned up the pipe for me. I was curious to know what was happening there. He reamed the bowl with a PipNet pipe reamer and cleaned it up with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife. He scrubbed the exterior with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a tooth brush to clean off the grime off the finish and the overflow of lava on the rim top. The cleaning had removed the grime on the rim top. I examined the flaws and fills on the right side of the bowl at the top edge. Jeff’s scrubbing had lifted some of the nicks and scratches on the surface of the bowl and shank. He cleaned up the internals of the shank, mortise and stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol to remove all of the oils and tars in the pipe. He soaked the stem in Briarvilles Pipe Stem Deoxidizer and was able to remove any remaining grime on the surface and inside. The fit of the stem to the shank made it look like an original even though there was not a Stanwell logo on it. When it arrived here in Vancouver it was a clean pipe and I knew what I had to work with. I took photos of it before I started my part of the restoration. I took a photo of the rim top and the stem to show their condition. Jeff was able to clean up the cake and the lava overflow that was shown in the rim and bowl photos above. The rim top and the inner edge both looked very good. The stem looked better, though there were light tooth marks and chatter on both sides near the button. I took photos of the stamping on the shank top and underside. It is clear and readable as noted above. You can also see the Bari stamp on the top of the saddle stem. I started my work on the pipe by addressing some of the darkening on the rim top and edge. I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to remove the darkening on the inward bevel of the rim top and edge. It looked much better.The next step in the work was to address the fills that were shrunken and the nicks that surrounded the bowl and shank surfaces. I used a clear super glue to fill them in and repair the damaged areas. Once the repairs cured I used a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper to start the process of blending them into the surface. I sanded the surface of the bowl with 320-3500 grit sanding pads to smooth out the repairs and blend them into the rest of the bowl. I also wanted to make the grain stand out more. The pipe looked so good that I started my work by polishing the smooth rim top and bowl with micromesh sanding pads. I dry sanded it with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the bowl down after each pad with a damp cloth. The pipe began to take on a rich shine and grain was beginning to stand out. I sanded with all of the pads and wiped the bowl down after each pad with a soft cloth. I rubbed the bowl and shank down with Before & After Restoration Balm to deep clean the finish on the bowl and shank. The product works to clean, enliven and protect the briar. I worked it in with my fingers to get it into the briar. I used a horsehair shoe brush to work it into the sand blast. I let it sit for 10 minutes then I wiped it off and buffed it with a soft cloth. The briar really began to have a rich shine. I took some photos of the bowl at this point to mark the progress in the restoration. It is a beautiful bowl.  I set the bowl aside and worked on the stem at this point in the process. I touched up the BARI stamp with white acrylic fingernail polish. I let it dry and then scraped off the excess and polished the stem with 1000 grit sanding pads. The stamping was faint but I was able to capture it to some degree.I polished light tooth marks and chatter out of the stem with micromesh sanding pads – dry sanding with 1500-12000 grit pads. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with Obsidian Oil. I polished the stem with Before & After Pipe Stem Polish – both Fine and Extra Fine. I gave it a coat of Obsidian Pipe Stem Oil. It works to protect the stem from oxidizing. I set it aside to dry. I put the stem back on the Bari Dana Made in Denmark 20 Oval Shank Egg and took it to the buffer. I buffed the bowl and stem with Blue Diamond to polish the briar and the vulcanite. Blue Diamond does a great job on the smaller scratches that remain in both. I gave the bowl and the stem several coats of carnauba wax and buffed the pipe with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. I am amazed at how well it turned out. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below. This is a beautiful Bari Dana 20 Oval Shank Egg – the vulcanite saddle stem and smooth finish combine to give the pipe a great look. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 5 ½ inches, Height: 1 ¾ inch, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 inch, Chamber diameter: ¾ of an inch. The weight of the pipe is 1.41 ounces /41 grams. This is another pipe that I will be putting on the rebornpipes online store in the Danish Pipe Pipemaking Companies Section shortly, if you are interested in adding it to your collection. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me on this beauty!

As always, I encourage your questions and comments as you read the blog. Thanks to each of you who are reading this blog. Remember we are not pipe owners; we are pipe men and women who hold our pipes in trust until they pass on into the trust of those who follow us.