Peterson 999 Deluxe Restoration

By Al Jones

The Peterson 999 is an iconic Rhodesian shape and one of my favorites. I prefer the chubbier, pre-Republic versions of that shape and have a pre-Republic “Sterling” 999 in my collection. This pipe was found on eBay and appeared to in great condition.

I enjoy reading Mark Irwins “The Peterson Pipe Connoisseur & Collector” blog. The entry linked below, reviews nomenclature on pre-Republic pipes makes it easy to get a date range on a particular piece. Because Peterson used older stamps throughout various eras, only silver hallmarked pipes can be dated to a specific year. This pipe has the stacked “Made In Ireland” which was used between 1922 and 1938.

Mark Irwins Pre-Republic Blog Entry

Prior to 1920 it was rare for a country of origin to be stamped on the pipe, just Peterson’s Dublin on the band. After 1921/22,If it is stamped “MADE IN IRELAND” and the “Made in” is stacked over “Ireland” or “MADE IN EIRE” or several other forms, it was made between 1922 and 1938.

The Deluxe grade was the highest grade Peterson for that era and this one has some nice grain.

The photos from the seller were very good and I didn’t bother to take any “before” pictures of my own. The stem had some oxidation, but appeared to be free of any teeth marks. The gold “P stem logo looked perfect. The bowl had a few nicks and some circular marks on the bowl top that I hoped could be removed. The nomenclature was in great condition. Below is the pipe as advertised.





There was a small amount of cake, which was reamed and then the bowl was soaked with alcohol and sea salt. I used some 2000 grit paper to remove the marks on the bowl top, which lightened the stain. I applied some diluted Fieblings Medium Brown to the bowl top, just above the top ring. The stain blended in nicely with the factory finish.

The oxidation on the stem was heavier than it appeared. I started with 800 grit wet paper and then moved down thru 1500 and 2000 grades. 8000 and 12000 grade micromesh was used next. The stem was buffed lightly with White Diamond and then Meguiars Plastic polish. I was careful around the gold “P” logo and didn’t want to damage it. That made it tricky to remove the oxidation in that area and I wasn’t able to get all of it. I may go back later and revisit that section of the stem. The stem is threaded for the “chimney” but it is missing.

The bowl was buffed with White Diamond (staying away from the nomenclature areas) and then several coats of Carnuba wax.

Below is the finished pipe.


Peterson_999_Deluxe_Final (4)

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Peterson_999_Deluxe_Final (5)

Peterson_999_Deluxe_Final (3)

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Peterson_999_Deluxe_Final (9)

Peterson_999_Deluxe_Final (7)







9 thoughts on “Peterson 999 Deluxe Restoration

  1. ReserectedPipes

    Al, This is one of my favorite shapes. And one very nice example of the enduring craftsmanship that went into the older pipe makers craft. The color and finish even down into the rim of the bowl are superb. It looks brand new!! Thanks for showing us!!

    1. upshallfan Post author

      Thanks, but she definitely has a few character marks. I was tempted to take it down all the way, using Dave G’s new technique. But the factory finish was in good enough shape that I decided to hone my technique with that process on a lesser pipe. I’m open for any tips on how to rid the gold “P” stem logo of that stubborn oxidation, without damaging it.

  2. Roland

    Great pipe Al and amazing refurbishing as usual. This is about the fourth time we were after the same pipe 🙂
    Ow a few triple nines and l am a sucker for the chubby shape. I restore the white logos with liquid paper, the golden or silver ones can be done with acrylic – or oil paint. I fill them halfway the sanding , it gives me pretty good idea about the progress.

    1. upshallfan Post author

      The Deluxe Petersons have a gold (real?), metal inset “P”. As such, they are slightly raised from the surface of the stem. So while you can gently roll over a stamped P logo, that would potentially damage this style. My Premiere Selection pipe has a metal, silver “P” but a piece has flaked off. I was afraid that part of the gold P would come off if I got any closer with the paper and/or buffing wheel. I wrap the paper around the narrow edge of a popsicle stick for the area between the shank and logo, but you can still only get so close. Once those metal logos are damaged, there is no way to make that repair (that I’m aware of).

  3. Linwood

    Al, I too bid on that pipe – not enough obviously (darnitall). I, like quite a few people, have been trying to find one like this. Should you ever….


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