Daily Archives: January 20, 2015

Reshaping the airway slot in the stem button


Blog by Steve Laug

I use this process repeatedly when I am reworking or restemming a pipe. It is a simple procedure for opening up the airway/slot in the end of the button. In the precast stems the slots are often narrow and it is a fight to get a pipe cleaner through them. They also constrict the airflow and make it less than optimal. In some of the older stems the airway in the slot are also constricted. In both cases the simple procedure below will create a smooth smoking pipe.Bertram11 I start with small flat oval needle file (the centre file in the photo below) and work it along the top and bottom edges of the slot to begin to open the airway. The next photo shows the airway when I have finished with this flattened oval needle file. I still need to work the ends of the slot and open it further but this is the first step.Bertram12 I move to the second file in the set (the top file in the photo above). It is a fatter oval file that I work on the top and bottom edges and also on the ends of the slot. The idea is to begin to slope the edge inward and open the ends of the slot. I want to make the slot more of a Y – wide on the edges sloping inward and also sloping the top and bottom of the slot inward. The photo below shows the stem after I have worked it over with the second file.Bertram13 I finished with the third file (the bottom one in the first photo) which is a round needle file. I use this file to clean and open the slot more and work on the tapers on the sides of the slot and the top and bottom. The airway is wide open at this point and only needs to be cleaned up with sandpaper to remove the marks on the face of the button and the inside of the airway.Bertram14 I folded a piece of 220 grit sandpaper into a strip that I worked inside of the slot smoothing out the file marks in the airway and on the surface of the button. I worked it until the slot was smooth inside and the oval airway was open. At this point a pipe cleaner easily slides in and out of the slot making clean up a breeze. If you want a more open slot you can continue to file the opening and make it larger. Always work the top, bottom and sides of the slot to make it as uniform in shape as you can. I like a nice oval slot that gives a smooth delivery of smoke and also a wide open airway to receive the pipe cleaner.Bertram25

Restoring an Apple from Bertam, the Nation’s Pipemaker


Blog by Steve Laug

The second pipe from the foursome I bought on Ebay was a shapely apple and of all the foursome it was in the best shape. It was dirty and lightly caked but the stem was lightly oxidized and very clean. The shank was quite clean and fresh and took very little to clean out. It is stamped Bertram in script on the shank over Washington DC. It appears to also have a number on the shank to the left of the script. The first number is unreadable but the second is a 0. These numbers on the Bertrams told the price of the pipe and where it fit in the hierarchy of the line.

I have included the following link to give a bit of historical information on the pipe company. It is a well written article that gives a glimpse of the heart of the company. http://www.streetsofwashington.com/2012/01/bertrams-pipe-shop-on-14th-street.html#!
Bertram's, detail fall 1974 2 Steve Strack

6782006459_a454781584_b In the photo below the Bertram is the pipe at the top of the picture. And in the second photo provided by the seller it is out of focus but the shape is clear.Foursome2

Foursome4 The next four photos show the overall state of the pipe when I brought it to the worktable last evening. The stem is lightly oxidized and appears to be high quality vulcanite. Unlike many of the Bertram stem I have had in the past this one does not have clunky sharp edges of a vulcanite blank. They had been sanded down (at the factory) to make the stem more tapered and finished looking. Bertrams did not typically have a stain or finish. They were polished briar in a natural finish. This one was dirty and had some ground in oils on the shank and sides of the bowl. The grain was a nice cross grain on the right side and mixed on the left. The bowl had a cake in the first 1/3 from the top. The rim was dirty with oils and tar and had a few dents and dings from being knocked about. The slot in the button was very tight – as I have found true of my other Bertram pipes and would need to be opened up to facilitate cleaning with a pipe cleaner. In examining the bowl there were several fills but they had been done well – the putty that was used was not the pink or white putty and had coloured along with the briar as the pipe was smoked.Bertram1

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Bertram4 The close up photo of the bowl shows the rim and the buildup of cake at the top of the bowl.Bertram5 I reamed the bowl with a PipNet reamer, matching the cutting head to the diameter of the bowl.Bertram6 I wiped down the briar with acetone on a cotton pad to remove the ground in oils and dirt. I scrubbed with the pad and was able to remove most of the dirt and grime.Bertram7 To address the dents and dings on the rim I decided to lightly top the bowl. I would not be staining the pipe so I would not need to try to match the stain from the bowl and rim. I topped it with 220 grit sandpaper on a topping board.Bertram8 I wiped it down a second time using isopropyl alcohol on cotton pads.Bertram9 I cleaned out the shank and stem with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and isopropyl alcohol. It was not too dirty and cleaned up quickly.Bertram10 I decided to work on the slot so that I could more easily clean out the inside. I used needle files to open the slot. I used three different files – a flat oval, a rounded oval and a round to reshape the slot into an oval.Bertram11

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Bertram14 I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper to remove some of the buildup and roughness on surface of the stem. I also sanded the end of the stem and the inside of the newly shaped slot. I followed that up with a medium and a fine grit sanding sponge. I followed that with my usual micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12,000 grit pads. I rubbed it down with Obsidian Oil and let it dry.Bertram15

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Bertram18 I rubbed the bowl down with a light coat of olive oil and then buffed the pipe with White Diamond and gave it multiple coats of carnauba wax. The finished pipe is shown in the photos below.Bertram19

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Bertram22 The inside of the bowl had some cracking so I mixed up some pipe mud – cigar ash and water – and coated the inside of the bowl with it. I painted it on with a pipe cleaner and covered the cracks. I also used a folded piece of sandpaper to clean up the inner edge of the rim and make it crisper. The last three photos show the stem and the bowl after the complete reworking.Bertram23

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