Daily Archives: October 5, 2014

Dr. Grabow Royal Duke Straight Smooth


ReserectedPipes's avatarReserectedPipes

In a batch of bowls I bought on eBay was this smooth Dr. Grabow Royal Duke.

I started this Reserection back in July, but kept getting sidetracked and not getting it done. The finish and bowl were in real good shape. There was only one small fill on it.

First thing was to ream it with my Castleford reamer starting with the smallest and working up till I was just touching the bare wood, not wanting to go into it. Next was to give it an alcohol bath inside and out to clean out the prior owners remnants.

After the dusting and cleaning I had to make a stem for it.

Using the PIMCO Tenon Tool I cut the stem down to get a close fit and hand sanded it the rest of the way to make it complete.

First using emory paper and then working throughout the micro sanding…

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Bringing an acorn shaped bowl back to life – wondering if there was a point to this exercise.


Blog by Steve Laug

When I took this old bowl out of the box – last of two pipes to refurbish in my box – I looked at it and wondered what the point would be to clean it up. It had three large and visible fills on the bowl back left side and bottom of the shank and bowl. The finish was shot and it did not have a stem. I sorted through my can of stem and found a threaded Kaywoodie stem that had a short stinger and some scored threads. I tried it in the metal mortis on this pipe and it actually fit perfectly with no overage. The stamping on the old bowl remains a mystery to me – it is stamped on the left side of the shank as follows: HHG over Imported Briar. There is no other stamping at all on the pipe. So far I am unable to find any information on it at all. Who Made That Pipe has the listing but says maker unknown. I do know that the Imported Briar stamping makes it likely that the pipe is an American made pipe post WWII. Other than that I am at a loss. The two fills were solid and undamaged and the putty was a light brown. The finish was shot and opaque. It was hard to see what the grain looked like underneath. The rim was darkened but undamaged.IMG_2484 IMG_2485 IMG_2486The photo below shows the three fills that were very present on the bowl. The potential grain shows through on the bottom of the shank and led me to have a little hope that underneath the opaque ruined finish would be some nice grain.IMG_2487I screwed the stem in place on the shank to have a look at the shape and fit with the pipe. It actually looked quite good with the long, slender stem. The stem had oxidation and calcium build ups on the top and bottom but would clean up nicely.IMG_2488 IMG_2489 IMG_2490I wiped down the bowl with alcohol (ran out of acetone) and scrubbed the surface to remove the finish. Without the acetone I would need to sand the bowl. I set up a topping board and used 220 grit sandpaper to remove the thick darkening on the rim. I lightly topped it so as not to change the profile or look of the pipe.IMG_2492 IMG_2493 IMG_2494I sanded the bowl and stem with 220 grit sandpaper and then with a medium and fine grit sanding sponge to remove the remnants of the old finish on the bowl and the buildup of calcium on the stem. Some nice birdseye grain was underneath the finish on the right and left sides of the bowl.IMG_2495 IMG_2496 IMG_2497 IMG_2498I cleaned the metal tenon with alcohol and then sanded the rough areas on the threads to clean up the aluminum damage. I sanded the stem with 220 grit sandpaper and medium and fine grit sanding sponges to remove the tooth indentations that were underneath the calcified buildup. I used a Bic lighter to paint the surface of the stem and lift the tooth dents. Once they had lifted I redefined the crease of the button with needle files. I sanded it with micromesh sanding pads – wet sanding with 1500-2400 grit pads and dry sanding with 3200-12,000 grit pads. I rubbed it down with Obsidian Oil between each set of three sanding pads. When I finished sanding with the 12,000 grit pad I buffed it lightly with White Diamond and gave it another coat of Obsidian Oil. I set it aside while I worked on the bowl.IMG_2499 IMG_2500 IMG_2501I wiped down the bowl one final time with alcohol before staining it with a dark brown aniline stain. I applied the stain and flamed it and repeated the process until the coverage was even.IMG_2502 IMG_2503I wiped down the bowl with alcohol on cotton pads to remove some of the dark heavy colour of the brown stain and to make it more transparent. Once I had it to the point where I could see through the stain to the grain I quit wiping it down. The trick was to make the stain transparent enough to highlight the grain but at the same time minimize the three fills.IMG_2504 IMG_2505 IMG_2506 IMG_2507Once I had the stain at the place I wanted I put the stem back on the pipe and took it to the buffer. I buffed the bowl with red Tripoli to polish and buff through the dark areas that remained on the stain coat. I buffed the bowl until it met the look I was aiming for. I then buffed the bowl and stem with White Diamond and gave them multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed it finally with a soft flannel buff to raise the shine. The finished pipe is shown below. It actually came out quite well and should provide a great yard pipe for someone down the line. I expect this will be another pipe that I gift to a pipeman I meet along the way.IMG_2508 IMG_2509 IMG_2510 IMG_2511If anyone has some clues as to the maker of this pipe let me know. It turned out to be worth working on after all. I am pleased with what came out of an otherwise ignoble old pipe bowl without a stem that had been sitting in my box for quite awhile as I ignored it and worked on other bowls and stems.

The Original Lonchamps Pigskin Pipe and the Restoration of One – Robert M. Boughton


Guest Blog by Robert M. Boughton
Member, North American Society of Pipe Collectors
http://www.roadrunnerpipes.com
http://about.me/boughtonrobert
Photos © the Author

“Nothing is so perfectly amusing as a total change of ideas.”
— Laurence Sterne, 18th century Irish born English novelist and humorist

INTRODUCTION
Imagine it, the idea of covering a nice, good briar pipe in pigskin, or, as is more realistic, decent briar but pocked with so many problematic blemishes that conventional pipe-making wisdom would have it rusticated or coated with high quality varnish of some color and buffed to a high sheen. Yet some clever Frenchman, tired of the norm, cogitated on the puzzling problem until, in 1945, he came up with the idea of wrapping the bowl and shank in pigskin. And thus Longchamp, a brand of Forestier & Cie, was born to be the first maker and sole distributor of the new innovation, at least until other brands got with the program.

This particular leather-clad pipe came to me from the Internet, as so many subjects of my recent and future blogs did, because I spotted it in a lot and looked up Longchamp online. That is how I learned that the French company’s shop in St. Claude, renowned for so many other fine examples of the craft, fashioned the wooden shapes and sent them off to Paris where the actual pigskin coats were made and sewn on by local artisans.

I already bought two pigskins, both bulldogs, by other makers. The green Versailles, an export brand of Ropp, sold a few weeks ago. The tan Derby, an Italian make, remains available. The dark brown Longchamp, a billiard, makes a nice alternative as a different shape and color.

RESTORATION
In a façade of good upkeep, the pigskin itself was impeccable, needing only polishing. The real victims of the previous owner were the rim, chamber and stem.Robert1 Robert2 Robert3 Robert4 Robert5I’m getting plenty of experience with rim and chamber restoration, and as the photos above show, this is no exception. Don’t ask me how it’s possible, but when I finished reaming this one and sanding it with 150-grit paper, there was more carbon than bowl space. If it were tobacco, there would be enough to fill at least three bowls.Robert6But the finished wood, including the rim from which I was able to remove with super fine steel wool all of the burns that appeared to be so serious I suspected someone had used a cigar torch on it, makes the labor of love worth it.Robert7Just a little patient work with 1500 micromesh brought back the nice grain and took away the small nick. I re-did the rim with brown boot stain, flamed it and removed the resulting light layer of black flakes with gentle use of 2400 micromesh, going with the grain.

Reading the instructions on the label helped me avoid following my impulse to squeeze out a huge gob of the Cadillac Boot and Shoe Care polish I bought for the purpose of restoring the shine to the pigskin. I would have smeared it all over the leather and was amazed that so little of the stuff went so far. Like Dippity-do, just a dab will do you.

Now, the scrapes and discoloring of the stem took some time to undo with 220-grit paper followed by 1500 micromesh. I polished it with the usual red Tripoli (several turns on the buffer) and White Diamond.

The one thing about this restore that seemed wrong as far as the briar was concerned was not being able to remove the pigskin to get to the wood and at least clean it up. I suppose my innate curiosity would have compelled me to take this step if I possessed the skill to sew the leather back together! But as it was, the rim being the sole part of the wood that showed, it was all I needed to buff. I gave it the works, of course, with white Tripoli, White Diamond and carnauba waxes.

The final touch was returning the Longchamp galloping horse and rider logo on the stem with a white crayon marker. And of course, somewhere in there I cleaned and sanitized the pipe.Robert8 Robert9 Robert10 Robert11 Robert12CONCLUSION
Although I am not a big football fan, I was pretty good at running with the ball whenever I got it back in the day during my childhood. Something in me hated to be taken down, and so I became quite good at twisting and squirming my way out of the grips of opposing players when they got their hands on me, or dodging them altogether.

Until my recent experiences with leather-covered pipes, that was my only run-in with pigskin.