I received this older Peterson Deluxe 11S to refurbish for a project that I am involved in and in the process of going over the pipe noting the things that needed to be repaired. I got to the shank end and noted the 1/8 inch gap between the chamfered edge of the band and the end of the shank (Photo 1). From the marks on the shank it was obvious that the band had been removed and glued with the gap. It then had been chamfered inward toward the shank to give it a dish effect and allowing the stem on the Deluxe to sit closer to the shank. It was not too badly done though it obviously had been modified and there were some dents in the surface of the edge.
I decided to return it to its original position on the shank. I cleaned off the band with silver cleaner and cleaned out the shank (Photo 2). I wanted the surface to be smooth so that when I heated it I could press it into place on the shank. To return it to that place would be a two-step process, if I was to do it without damaging the surface of the band. The first step in the repair was to bring the band back to a position where the gap was gone. The second step would be to press down on the chamfered edge and flatten it into place.
I heated the band with my heat gun to warm the glue and also the band (Photos 3 – 4). The heat would loosen the glue and allow me to adjust the band on the shank so that the stamping was in place and I could easily press it into place. For this first stage in the process I was only interested in getting the gap between the band and the top of the shank closed (Photos 5 – 6).
To flatten the chamfered surface of the band would take a slightly different approach. I reheated the end of the shank band with my heat gun. I used the lower heat setting as I was holding the bowl with the shank down over the heat and did not want to get burned. I heated it for as long as I could hold it in place and then took it to the work table. Once there I pressed it down onto a metal plate that I use for pressure fitting bands on shanks. I repeated this process until I had pressed the band flat and removed the chamfering (Photos 7 – 8).
After it was pressed flat I used the micromesh sanding pads from 1500-12,000 grit to repolish the silver end cap. I pressed it downward into the pad and twisted it and also ran it across the pad to remove the scratches from the metal plate. With that finished the end is flush against the shank and there are just three small dents that I was unable to remove. The band is in place as it was when it left Peterson’s Factory (Photo 9).
To finish the band after sanding it, I wiped the entire band down with a jeweler’s cloth and polished it until it shined like new (Photos 10 – 12). The band was back in its correct place and ready for the stem once it was repaired.













Is there a way to heat up the band and remove it, without a heat gun? I have a silver band on an old Peterson meerschaum that needs to be repositioned, but I don’t have a heat gun. Thanks.
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You can carefully heat it with a lighter flame and you can also use a blow drier
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Hi Steve, The Silver band on my Estate Peterson is completely loose. I am reluctant to use Super-glue or any similar kind of extremely poisonous glue, as I am worried about possible fumes created when I start smoking it. What would you recommend to use in gluing it back? Thanks for your help. Your Blog is an encouragement and help to us Blue-Collar folk who are unable to afford Brand-new pipes but rather only hand-me-downs which we then try to restore and enjoy.
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Thank you Jacob. I use wood glue to reset bands. Elmer’s white glue or Welbond. Apply it to the shank and press band in place. Set it aside to set.
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Thanks Steve, I will do that.
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Let us know how it worked Jacob. Photos would be great.
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Steve, you are such a wizard. The ferrules on estate Petes sometimes look like they’ve been dropped from the top of a building onto the sidewalk below and bounced a dozen times. I learn so much from these pages–great stuff on the heat gun, flattening the campher, and sanding. Looks marvelous!
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