Daily Archives: December 14, 2025

Rethinking the Repair of Damaged Stems


by Kenneth Lieblich

Welcome to another installment of my Pipe Incident Reports. The idea, in general, is to provide a brief write-up – focusing on a particular pipe-restoration-related issue – rather than an entire restoration story. I’ve been blessed by a precious few God-given talents in my life, but innovation is not among them. I’m not usually able to come up with groundbreaking ideas to do things differently. Having said that, I do try and improve my repair/restoration skills, techniques, and procedures wherever I can. One can call it kaizen or whatever, but I try to find better ways of restoring pipes.Today, I am attempting to improve the process of repairing stem bite-throughs by incorporating steel mesh. Now, you might be thinking, ‘That’s not a sentence I ever expected to read’, and you are justified in that thought.

Many pipe repairmen have used various methods for repairing bite-throughs (holes) in vulcanite. Normally, this involves mixing cyanoacrylate adhesive with activated charcoal or powdered vulcanite. Some fellows have also tried some sort of epoxy to bring the stem back to life. In fact, when I started doing pipe repairs, I used that mixture of cyanoacrylate adhesive and activated charcoal. Then I discovered a black-tinted cyanoacrylate adhesive that came pre-mixed with rubber and charcoal. I introduced this product to Steve and it’s what he and I have been using ever since. However, I have always wondered about the durability of these repairs – especially against the bite of a man’s jaw. I wondered, could there be a better way?

Maybe. Read on, but please note: what I am proposing is NOT a complete solution. This is an idea that I hope someone will take and turn into a workable method.

I decided to test a pipe-stem repair with the aforementioned adhesive built around a stainless-steel wire-mesh structure. My thinking is that this would enhance the strength and durability of said repairs. For any engineers or scientists reading this article, please know that I have no scientific background and I am not equipped to conduct accurate tests of compressive or tensile strength. I am merely running an idea up the proverbial flagpole and seeing who salutes it. I hope that someone reading this will take the idea and, either, discredit it or expand upon it. The experiment I describe below is just that: an experiment. It is, possibly, a proof of concept – but certainly not the final step.

The idea came to me one day as I saw some sort of wire mesh being used in a concrete foundation. This mesh is used in construction to control cracking, to distribute stress, and add tensile strength. Perhaps it can be used, in like manner, where a large vulcanite repair is needed. My encounter with the concrete was providential because I had recently acquired a large lot of pipes, many of which had damaged stems. There was one stem in particular that stood out as a candidate for this experiment. Here it is: This is a stem that I would normally likely toss in the garbage, unless a customer specifically asked me to repair it. The damage is obviously serious. Ironically, this brutal damage actually makes this stem the perfect patient for this type of surgery.

Here is the stainless-steel woven wire mesh. For those of you who know such things, this mesh has a mesh number of 200. It can be acquired inexpensively and comes in various mesh numbers. The larger the number, the finer the holes in the mesh. To be frank, my selection of 200 was pure guesswork. I didn’t really have a sense of what would be best – other than to say that it needed to be fine enough to prevent the adhesive from pouring straight through.On with the work! I first needed to create a platform upon which the adhesive and mesh could rest. This was obviously essential in order to maintain the draught hole in the bit. In the first photo below, you’ll see that I used cardboard, but I immediately abandoned that idea (I’ll explain why momentarily). I am displaying this photo in order to demonstrate my use of a pencil to scribe the precise shape of the missing section of vulcanite.I quickly eliminated the cardboard idea because it just isn’t as useful a material for this purpose. Instead, I used several layers of duct tape as my substrate. I can still scribe a line on the duct tape, but – more importantly – cyanoacrylate adhesive doesn’t stick to it. In other words, once the work had fully cured, I could readily remove the duct tape without affecting the repair.

With my scribed line, I was able to transfer the pattern of the absent vulcanite on to the wire mesh and cut it to shape. Truth be told, it would probably be better to use welded wire mesh, but I have no idea where you acquire that in such a small mesh number. Anyway, before cutting the wire mesh, I took the critical steps of (1) gently sanding the mesh with sandpaper to provide a slightly rough surface to maximize the adhesive bond, and (2) cleaning the mesh thoroughly with acetone, to remove any sanding grit and any other substance that would inhibit a good adhesive bond.

And away we go! It is important to apply the cyanoacrylate adhesive in thin layers, rather than one thick blob. I chose to apply a layer, spray it with an accelerator, apply another layer, etc. – until I was satisfied. Once complete, I left it to sit overnight and came back the next day. I freely admit that I am still concerned about the brittleness of this repair, but I think this is definitely a step in the right direction. Naturally, shaping and sanding was the next step – and this took a while. I should emphasise at this point that I didn’t employ the same attention to detail on this stem, as I would on a stem for a customer. I just wanted to get this done and see if it would work. As I sanded with needle files and sanding pads, I shaped the button and melded the repair into the surrounding vulcanite. You can see the results below. It’s pretty good and I’m sure it would look even better if I was doing it for sale or for a customer.

Some final thoughts: I think there is a rudimentary idea here. I feel confident in saying that the repair itself is likely stronger and more resilient with the mesh than without. However, I am apprehensive about whether the brittleness of the cyanoacrylate adhesive is improved or not – and I’m not sure how to reasonably overcome that issue (other than trying epoxy). Another problem that still exists is that there is no direct connection between the mesh and the pre-existing vulcanite. This surely isn’t helpful. It is at the edges – where the adhesive meets the vulcanite – that the bond must be weakest. Next steps might include (1) embedding the wire mesh in an epoxy – this might be the best way of addressing brittleness; (2) overlaying the wire mesh on the original vulcanite to create a bridge structure (although this creates its own big problems); (3) developing a way of affixing the mesh to the vulcanite.

Now, over to you! What do you think of this idea? How would you improve it? What are the next steps? What colossal errors have I made? Please let me know what you think in the comments below. If you make use of the ideas from this experiment in your pipe work, please let me know how it goes. I hope you enjoyed reading this installment of my Pipe Incident Reports – I look forward to writing more. If you are interested in my work, please follow me here on Steve’s website or email me directly at kenneth@knightsofthepipe.com. Thank you very much for reading and, as always, I welcome and encourage your comments.

Restoring an old VFSH Meerschaum lined Carved Fox and Chicken Briar Long Canadian


by Steve Laug

On to the next pipe on the table. This one is carved Briar with a meerschaum lined bowl. It came to us from a Facebook auction from a seller in Old Lyme, Connecticut, USA on 04/29/2020. It is long and Canadian shaped with a carved fox capturing a chicken in the grass and branches on the top of the shank. The briar bowl is lined with meerschaum that is in good condition though sporting a thin cake in the bowl. The briar outside bowl has a crack on the left outside running from the rim top to the bottom of the bowl, ending just short of the heel. The exterior of the bowl is dirty and dusty but otherwise the carving is very detailed. The fur on the fox and the feathers on the chicken are well done. The grass, plants and branches with vines are well executed. The last inch of the shank is smooth. The stem is a short tapered Canadian style made of amber. It has some small nicks and chips at the shank/stem junction but otherwise is quite smooth. The black leather case is made to fit the carved pipe. The case is worn in spots but is solid. The inside of the base is lined with a velour that is brown and padded. The top of the case is more satin and is stamped V.F.S.H. The same four initials are stamped on the left and right side of the shank below the carving. I took photos of the case and the pipe it held before I started my work on it. . I took a photo of the V.F.S.H. embossed stamp on the inside of the inside of the case.I removed it from the case and took photos of the pipe to show the carving from the sides and the top and underside of the stem. I also captured the condition of the rim top and crack in the side of the bowl. The amber stem is also shown in the photos below. I took photos of the rim top to show the meerschaum lining in the bowl and the condition of the amber taper stem. It is a beauty.I removed the stem from the shank and took a photo of the parts. It is a well shaped carved pipe and the amber stem works well with the pipe.I took some photos of the carving on the shank that clearly showed the fox and hen as well as the fence on the back of the bowl and the grass and greens trampled under the feet of the fox and the hen. The feathers on the bird and the fur on the fox are very well done.There is a VFSH in an oval stamp on the underside of the shank just ahead of the bowl. It is on both the left and right side of the shank.The briar bowl that held the meerschaum liner had a large crack running down the right front of the bowl from the rim top down to the heel of the bowl. The inner meerschaum bowl is snug in the briar outer bowl and should be a reasonably easy repair.I reamed the bowl with a Savinelli Fitsall Pipe Knife to carefully scrape the cake from the bowl. I took the cake back to smooth walls. I sanded the bowl with 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a dowel to smooth out the walls of the meerschaum. I used a medium grit sanding block to remove the build up on the rim top of the outer briar bowl and the meerschaum liner.I repaired the crack with clear CA glue and briar dust. I filled in the crack with clear CA glue and then pressed briar dust into the crack with a flat dental file. I sanded the repaired area with 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the repair. I scrubbed the carved bowl and shank with a tooth brush and undiluted Murphy’s Oil Soap and warm water. I worked over the nooks and crannies with the brush and the soap. I rinsed the pipe off with warm water to remove the soap and debris on the surface. I dried the briar with a soft cloth. I rubbed the briar down with Before & After Restoration Balm and worked it into the carving as much as possible with a horse hair shoe brush and qtip cotton swabs. The intricate carving on parts of the fox and hen were slow and tedious work but it made a difference to the briar once it was thoroughly worked into the surface. I set the bowl aside and turned my attention to the stem. The amber stem had some chips in the surface on the top right side. I filled them in with clear CA glue. Once the repair cured I sanded the stem smooth with 220 grit sandpaper.I sanded the stem with 320-3500 grit 2×2 inch sanding pads. I worked over the repaired areas and the entirety of the amber stem with the pad – dry sanding with each pad. I wiped the stem down after each sanding pad with a cloth and Obsidian Oil. It really began to look better. I polished the stem with 1500-12000 grit micromesh sanding pads. I dry sanded it and after each sanding pad I wiped it down with an Obsidian Oil cloth. Once finished it took on a rich shine and glowed with the warmth of amber. This Hand Carved Meerschaum Lined Fox and Chicken Canadian has a beautiful, unique carved finish on a smooth bowl and shank. The large smooth meerlined pipe has some great grain around the bowl and shank. The well done carving is almost alive looking with the fox shaking the hen in his mouth. The polished reddish amber stem adds to the mix. I put the stem back on the bowl and hand buffed the pipe with a soft cloth. I gave the stem multiple coats of Clapham’s beeswax/carnauba wax mixture with my finger tips and a qtip. I followed that by buffing it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. The finished Fox and Chicken Hand Carved Canadian is quite nice and feels great in the hand. Give the finished pipe a look in the photos below. The dimensions of the pipe are Length: 10 inches, Height: 2 ¼ inches, Outside diameter of the bowl: 1 ½ inches, Chamber diameter: 1 inch. The weight of the pipe is 104 grams/3.77 ounces. This one will be going into my own personal collection. Thanks for walking through the restoration with me as I worked over another beautiful pipe Thanks for your time.