Daily Archives: December 5, 2013

Shaping a Stem with a Dremel and Sandpaper


Over the past three years I have been working and developing my own process of fitting stems to pipe bowls. I use both stem blanks and older recycled or reinvented stems that I have collected over the years. It is rare that either of them actually fit the diameter of a shank right from the stem bin. Sometimes I am able to get close to a good fit after turning the tenon and sometimes it is a bit more work. There have been times when I have had to shape a thin taper out of a saddle bit and times I have had to shape a saddle out of a large tapered stem. Doing this I have learned a few tricks that work for me.

While I was restemming an old basket pipe from the bottom of my refurbishing box I thought I would document the process of shaping the stem using a Dremel and sandpaper. In the case of the stem below you will notice that I decided to sand the shank and restain the whole pipe. I don’t always do that and in fact it is rare that I do unless the pipe is one that I intend to totally rework anyway. The stem I chose was a recycled one probably from a City DeLuxe pipe or at least one that bore the five point star stamping. In this case I intended to sand out the stamping as the diameter of the stem was larger than that of the shank. The four photos below show the stem from top, bottom and left and right sides to give an idea of the size of the stem when I started.
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I use a Dremel with a large sanding drum to remove the excess material from the stem at the shank stem junction. I am careful to not damage the shank in the process but push the end of the sanding drum as close to the shank as I can. The next series of four photos show the stem after the sanding drum has done its work. The diameter of the stem is very close to that of the shank at the end of this process.
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The remainder of the fine tuning of the fit I do by hand with folded sandpaper to shape and match the stem and the shank. On this pipe the finish on the pipe was a heavy dark varnished stain that I was going to remove from the pipe for refinishing so I sanded the shank the same time I sanded the stem. The next five photos show the stem and shank after sanding with 220 grit sandpaper to match the two surfaces.
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I buffed the stem and shank with red Tripoli to remove some of the surface scratching before I went on to sand the stem with a medium grit sanding sponge. The next two photos show the stem after sanding with the sanding sponge. The stem and shank fit is very tight and smooth and the feel of the transition from briar to vulcanite is almost seamless.
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On this pipe I decided to band the shank for cosmetic purposes so the remaining photos show the shank banded. You will note though from the above photos that the stem fit is actually very smooth and clean. I sanded the stem with micromesh sanding pads to remove the scratches and bring out the deep shine of the polished vulcanite. The final three photos show the fit of the stem after sanding with the micromesh sanding pads. From this point I wiped the stem down with Obsidian Oil and then buffed it with carnauba wax to finish the work.
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A Complete Reworking of a Zettervig Freehand


Blog by Steve Laug

I was chatting with a friend on one of the pipe forums that I frequent and he asked me about restemming an older 60’s vintage Zettervig freehand for him. I had a couple of stem possibilities sitting here so I figured why not. He sent the following pictures to show how the previous owner had pressed a Dr. Grabow metal mortise into the mortise of the Zettervig and then cut back a Grabow screw on tenon and added a metal washer as a spacer and screwed in the Grabow stem. He had reamed the pipe and done an internal cleaning before he sent it to me. But the externals looked pretty much the same as it does in the photos below. The plateau on the shank end was dirty and faded and the plateau on the rim was the same with a buildup tars that made the crevices and grooves in the plateau almost non-existent. It too was faded and worn looking.
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I had no idea about the brand and not read anything about it. I did a bit of digging to see what I could learn about it. I am always curious about learning about brands that are unfamiliar to me. The following comes from Pipedia
“In the 1960’s and into the early 1970’s Ole Zettervig had a shop in Copenhagen, Denmark where he was carving high quality pipes equal to Stanwell, Larsen, Anne Julie, Thurmann, Bang and others. These early pipes were marked “Copenhagen” and are very collectible. He sold his shop at some point in the 70’s and moved to Kolding and continued to produce pipes as a hobby, but the quality of briar and workmanship is said to not equal the early production. The later pipes he now marked as Kobenhaven rather than Copenhagen, and these were sold by Ole at flea markets throughout Europe.” http://www.pipedia.org/wiki/Zettervig
When it arrived I drilled out the metal insert in the shank and cleaned up the shank with pipe cleaners and cotton swabs. I then sorted through my stems and found several possibilities. I sent him the following two photos of the stem options and he chose the one that is inserted in the pipe. It actually came from a Danish Freehand that I had here and restored. I like less chunky stems so this one went to the parts bin. He liked it so it was the stem that I would work on for this pipe.
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I gave the pipe a cleanup reaming with the PipNet reamer and cleaned out the shank one last time. I scrubbed the bowl and the plateau on the shank and rim with Murphy’s Oil Soap and a brass tire brush to break away the tarry buildup. I rinsed it under running water to remove the soap. I wiped the bowl down with acetone on a cotton pad to remove the remaining finish and then sanded the bowl and the shank with micromesh sanding pads 1500-2400 grit to polish the minute scratches that were present. I stained the plateau portions of the pipe with a black aniline stain and then wiped them down with a cotton pad wetted with Everclear to give the black a little transparency. I gave the rim and shank end a light buff with White Diamond. The newly stained plateau is visible in the photos below.
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I also stained the bowl with an oxblood aniline stain. I applied and flamed it and reapplied and reflamed until I had the coverage that I wanted on this pipe. The photo below gives a side view of the pipe.
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I buffed the bowl and stem with White Diamond. I then took it back to the work bench and sanded the stem and the bowl with micromesh sanding pads from 1500-12,000 grit to give the finish on the stem and bowl a deep shine. Once I had finished that I took to the buffer and gave it multiple coats of carnauba wax to protect and shine it even more. The finished pipe is in the photos below. It is now on its way back to its owner.
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