Blog by Al Jones
These three Peterson’s belong to a fellow member of the Frederick Pipe Club (Maryland). He asked me if I could remove the oxidation on the stems. I tackled all three this afternoon and they are ready to deliver on the next club meeting.
First up was this Shape 999 Killarney
Before
After
I used my typical routine of 800 grit wet paper, followed by 1500 and 2000 grades. Next up was 8000 and 12000 grade micromesh. I followed this by polishing on my buffer White Diamond and then Meguiars Polish. The brair was in good shape so I only gave it a buff with Carnuba wax.
I followed the same stem regimen for the other two pipes.
Next up this Peterson Limerick. I forgot to take a “Before” picture until I was almost done with the 800 grade paper. This one has the most heavy coat of oxidation. The nickle band was polished with some Blue Magic metal polish. I gave the briar a light buff with White Diamond and then several coats of Carnuba wax. This one has some very nice cross grain and birds-eye.
Last up was this Meerschaum pipe with a Sterling Silver military style stem fitment. The oxidation on this one was stubborn, particularly around the P-lip button creases. To remove the oxidation in this area, I wrap each grade of paper around a very thin knife.
rebornpipes 
Thanks guys. Typically, I do fishtail style buttons with paper wrapped around a small, flat needle file. The p-lip button offers less working room, so very thin knife edge is handy on those style pipes.
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Great work on those Al. Nicely done. I too do not recall the use of a thin knife. I often pain the stem with a Bic lighter, running the flame over the surface to remove the oxidation after I have worked it over.
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I don’t recall your using a thin knife before and it is the oxidation that is my greatest problem with stems. I always seem to have a light shadow left in some areas. I will have to back to my stems and go over them and try that. Thank you.
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